Washington area neighborhoods: Rockville, beyond the Pike

By Alex Baldinger
Washington Post Staff Writer
Friday, August 13, 2010; WE19

Full disclosure: I grew up in Bethesda, and after 18 years there, my feelings toward Rockville boiled down to a single word: traffic.

Traffic on the way to Putt-Putt Golf and Games. Traffic on the way to Toys R Us. Traffic on the way to ice hockey practice. Rockville Pike. Always traffic.

So when I decided to move to Rockville last year, traffic was something I knew I would find.

A neighborhood, though? A place to walk around, with hidden gems to discover and places to become a regular? I wasn't optimistic.

But it's out there. It's hidden among granite countertop and mattress dealers; hidden across the street from car washes and behind BP stations; hidden above dance studios and in the shadows of tall government buildings. It's hidden a short walk from the Twinbrook Metro.

It's also hidden among the chain stores of Rockville Town Center, which opened in 2007 across from the Rockville Metro. "It's really cool to have a place to run into people," said Kate Bentley, 25, a construction office manager who grew up in Twinbrook. "We didn't really have that before, just a place to walk around and hang out. You always see the same people there all the time. It's a little bit more of a community feeling."

Just like a good scavenger hunt, the gems are hidden among the ordinary.

You don't need to have a car to find any of these places, either. Hop on the Metro with us as we explore the Twinbrook and Rockville areas (a three-minute ride between the two; $1.60-$2.15). We've chosen some of our favorite spots, and there are surely more out there.

The best part? You can enjoy this expanded neighborhood without having to worry about traffic. Well, other than foot traffic, that is.

TWINBROOK

1. Gilly's Craft Beer and Fine Wine

2009 Chapman Ave., Rockville. 301-770-5515. http://www.gillyscbfw.com.

Show up at Gilly's looking for a bottle of wine to pair with dinner and there's a decent chance you'll walk out with a much heavier bag than you intended. That's because the selection at this unpretentious beer-and-wine drinker's haven is always changing in ways that will make you think, "I didn't know they made that."

One day, it's the bottles of Theobroma, a spicy small-batch brew from Dogfish Head that packs subtle flavors of cocoa powder and ancho chile; the next it's the arrival of Gubna, a new 10 percent ABV Imperial Pale Ale from Oskar Blues Brewing Co.

But Gilly's is more than just an above-average beer and wine store; it's the type of place that makes a haphazard assortment of stores feel like an honest-to-goodness neighborhood.

Owners Tim and Johnna Gilchrist set the two-year-old store's social calendar to help with that: The Twinbrook Block Party, with kegs of Sierra Nevada and live music, was held outside the store on a recent Saturday, and an Oktoberfest party is scheduled for Oct. 9. Weekends feature regular tasting events, while on weekdays, the place buzzes with after-work crowds sipping pints.

Some patrons stay for only one, and others while the night away until closing. In a part of town that doesn't always feel like a true neighborhood, Gilly's feels like home.

2. Urban Bar-B-Que Co.

2007 Chapman Ave., Rockville. 240-290-4827. http://www.urbanbbqco.com.

Get within 10 feet of the front door and it's too late for you: By then, the aroma emanating from Urban Bar-B-Que has infiltrated your nostrils, and the only remedy is an order of Urban's Wings ($6.59 for eight) and a platter of pulled pork ($7.99).

The wings are coated in a peppery rub. Nearly blackened on the outside, they won't set your tongue on fire, but biting into one of the meaty wings reveals a zesty tang with a subtle heat. The pork, meanwhile, is so tender that the peppercorn-flecked ribbons of fat nearly fall off the strips of vinegary white meat. A platter comes with a side and a hunk of Urban's tasty cornbread.

Each of the restaurant's tables includes an entire roll of paper towels; you'll need them.

3. El Patio

12303 Twinbrook Pkwy., Rockville. 301-231-9225. http://www.elpatiointernational.com.

Sure, Argentine cuisine holds beef in high esteem, but what just came out of the kitchen at El Patio still borders on the absurd: The waiter appears to be carrying a skateboard -- one piled high with glistening, grilled meats.

In reality, it's the Parrillada para Dos, a platter of Argentine barbecue for two: grilled beef short ribs, flank steak, chicken, sausage, morcilla (black pudding), sweetbread, chinchulin (offal), two sides and, presumably, an immediate food coma. At $35.75, it's easily enough for two (or three . . . or four) and should probably come with an insurance policy and Tums. Wash it down with bottles of Quilmes ($5) for the true gaucho experience.

For the meat lover with a more tempered appetite, the bife a caballo -- flank steak served with two sunny-side-up eggs ($12.75) -- is still a tall order, as is the pique-a-lo-macho, a jumble of sauteed flank steak, sausage, jalapeños, french fries, hard-boiled eggs, olives and onions ($9.95).

Lighter fare, including choripan sandwiches -- tangy Argentine sausage on a homemade baguette ($3.25) -- are ideal for the lunchtime crowds.

South American ex-pats frequent El Patio's in-store market to pick up goods from Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay and Uruguay; check out the impressive selection of Argentine wines before you faint from overconsumption.

4. Againn Tavern

12256 Rockville Pike, Rockville. 301-230-9260.http://www.againntavern.com.

When Houston's Restaurant closed on Rockville Pike in 2009, diners wanting upscale-casual, family-friendly dining lost a longtime favorite. In its place comes Againn Tavern, the suburban location of the Scottish restaurant that brought scotch lockers, welsh rarebit and head cheese to 11th and K streets downtown.

Diners hoping to find an identical experience in Rockville may be disappointed: The menu, as explained by a server, was created with suburban palates in mind. Instead of authentic Scottish fare, diners will find such American comfort food as shrimp and grits ($24) and slow-smoked pork ribs ($19), which offer a nod to executive chef Wes Morton's Louisiana upbringing.

A few Scottish standbys remain: The potted pork is served with a tangy onion marmalade ($10), while the fish and chips ($15), bangers 'n mash ($15) and shepherd's pie ($19) will satisfy diners simply looking for entry-level gastropub fare.

Based on aesthetics alone, the bar at Againn is worth a visit. The dark-paneled room is airy and cool; it feels unhurried despite the hubbub of Rockville Pike seen through the front window. The drinks -- the Pimm's Cup spiked with mint, in particular -- aren't the norm for the neighborhood, and neither are the 84 personalized scotch lockers, where regulars can store up to three bottles starting at $500 a year.

5. Hair Expressions

12450 Parklawn Dr., Rockville. 301-984-8182. http://www.hairex.com.

Trim your bangs without trimming your bank account at Hair Expressions, a Paul Mitchell Partner School where stylists-in-training hone their skills while you get a cut at a steep discount from most salons.

Now don't freak out: Your mop's not going to be butchered by some twitchy Edward Scissorhands. Professional instructors oversee everything your future stylist does to your dome; the only downside is that an appointment may take a while longer than you're used to.

Stylists are classified as either Phase I or Phase II depending on experience. Popular services -- such as a wedding up-do ($45-$55 vs. $80 and up at Bang) and full highlights ($50-$55 vs. $95 and up at Bang) -- draw diverse crowds, including men, who can get a beard trim starting at $5 ($36 at Grooming Lounge).

6. Second Story Books

12160 Parklawn Dr., Rockville. 301-770-0477. http://www.secondstorybooks.com.

It is surprisingly easy to overlook more than a half-million books.

Nearly invisible but for a weathered gray-and-yellow sign behind a more prominent "For Lease" sign, the entrance to Second Story Books looks as though it might lead to a large, shuttered body shop. Instead, step inside the low-slung warehouse and find yourself completely immersed in row-upon-row of literature.

It might be wise to hire a sherpa as you venture deeper into the craggy rows of shelves, which seemingly jut out from other shelves. At the very least, pack water or a snack. (This is considered the warehouse half of the Second Story retail shop off Dupont Circle.) With only about 20 percent of the inventory catalogued, it might take a while to find what you're looking for, whether a 26-volume Mark Twain collection ($200) or a 1968 aerospace yearbook ($2).

Music lovers could spend days poring over the store's LP bins as suspended fluorescent lights hum overhead. At $1 each or $50 for a bankers box filled to capacity, why wouldn't you buy that Learn to Speak Yiddish LP, Engelbert Humperdinck's greatest hits or Fleetwood Mac's "Rumours"?

If you're in a hurry or looking for a specific, relatively new item, Barnes & Noble might be your best bet. But if you're looking to spend some time exploring the human intellect as it exists on the page, you'll be glad you stumbled upon Second Story Books.

ROCKVILLE

7. VisArts at Rockville/The Rockville Rooftop

155 Gibbs St., Rockville. 301-315-8200. http://www.visartscenter.org. http://www.rockvillerooftop.com.

By day, the Arts and Innovation Center in downtown Rockville is a mild-mannered art gallery; by night, it's a lively rooftop destination that attracts neighbors and office workers to mingle at a series of alfresco happy hours. That duality makes the Rockville Town Center building one of the most visually and socially stimulating locations in the city.

VisArts at Rockville occupies the building's bottom three levels, housing nearly 2,000-square-feet of gallery space, a retail store and studios for artists working in ceramics, glass, wood, photography and other media.

Three levels up, the Rockville Rooftop hosts recurring weekly parties to create Rockville's most elevated outdoor bar. Dance to salsa, bachata and reggaeton at Beso El Cielo, a Latin-themed dance party on Tuesdays, while both SkyAtFive (Thursdays) and Breeze (Fridays) strive for a lounge vibe, with white couches and velvet ropes.

8. Cloud 9 Clothing

130-B Gibbs St., Rockville. 301-340-1061.

Since the Anthropologie on Rockville Pike closed, the story of fashion in Rockville has centered on Marshalls, (T.J.) Maxx, Ross and Syms, a cluster of mid-Pike discount stores that, together, sound more like a law firm than a stylish destination.

Head farther up the Pike, however, and you'll find Cloud 9 Clothing, the Rockville Town Center outpost of a Baltimore-based chain of boutiques that happily keeps a low-profile -- it doesn't even have a Web site.

What it does have is a selection of casual, hip dresses, designer denim and accessories that have the type of mass-market-bohemian appeal that draws in the fashion- and budget-conscious alike. Indeed, the selection recalls that of Anthropologie (minus the housewares) or Urban Outfitters (minus the forced irony).

The store's selection in Rockville is almost exclusively geared toward women's clothing, but, gentlemen, take note: Based on the number of 20- and 30-something men in the store dutifully waiting as their female companions try on multiple outfits, it's a great place to pick up something for your significant other.

9. Bobby's Crabcakes

101 Gibbs St., Rockville. 301-217-0858. http://www.bobbyscrabcakes.com.

The power had been off for two days thanks to a late-July blackout; Patricia Byrne had even considered staying closed for a third day because of depleted inventory. "We have a very limited menu tonight because of the blackout," Byrne said, somewhat sheepishly, as she dutifully informed a customer of what wasn't on the menu: no burgers, no chicken, not even any french fries.

"But we do have crab cakes."

When the crab cakes turn out as well as they do at Bobby's, there's nothing to be sheepish about. Bursting with flavor, it's a taste that's as close to the Chesapeake Bay as a diner can get without leaving the confines of Rockville Town Center. You're paying for all lump meat in the crab cake sandwiches here, which explains their relatively small size and, perhaps most important on this particular occasion, their powerful flavor.

10. Spice Xing

100-B Gibbs St., Rockville. 301-610-0303. http://www.spicexing. com.

It's easy to think in extremes when considering Indian dining options in the Washington area. Affordable Indian food too often means butter chicken in plastic foam containers or chafing dishes of curry under heat lamps; quality Indian food results in white tablecloths and long waits for a reservation. Spice Xing, the newest restaurant by Passage to India's Sudhir Seth, offers a fine solution for diners seeking quality, affordable Indian food.

With a casual, kid-friendly atmosphere, it's the type of place you can dine in shorts and sandals after a Rockville Town Center shopping spree; Friday's Curry-Oke happy hour, where patrons sing to Top 40, hip-hop and Bollywood, should give you an idea of what to expect.

There's plenty to like about Chef Sudhir's food, too. The Malbari chicken ($12.95) boasts succulent, golf-ball sized chunks of chicken in a sauce that zings with coconut and coriander, while the chicken tikka masala ($13.95) is as good a representation of the Indian staple as you'll find. Paired with an appetizer of papadums and mango chutney ($4.50) or samosas ($5.50) and naan ($2.50), either entree can be comfortably shared.

11. The Waygoose

33 Maryland Ave., Rockville. 301-279-7525. http://www.thewaygoose.com.

"Take time every day to do something silly," reads the inscription on a small wall-mounted clock inside the Waygoose. It's as much a suggestion as it is a guiding principle for the hand-made crafts boutique that stocks tastefully whimsical odds and ends, including kitchen tools, paintings, conversation pieces and children's toys, in Rockville Town Center. The store's second location is in Bethesda.

Indoor wind chimes twinkle as peruse shelves lined with pottery, ceramics and knickknacks: blown-glass vases, a spoon rest, a chopstick holder.

But it's an unconventional piece of Follette Pottery kitchenware, from Louisiana, that best illustrates the Waygoose ethos: a grey-and-red earthenware beer can chicken baker that comes with a recipe for the booze-infused barbecue favorite. It's the type of item that you never knew existed, but now that you've seen it on the Waygoose's shelves, you'll find a reason to impress your dinner guests with it.