Recommended wines from Chablis

Domaine Alain Gautheron Chablis Premier Cru "Les Fourneaux" 2007/2008

* * *

Burgundy, France, $26

Both the 2007 and 2008 vintages of this lovely wine are on the market now. The 2007 is rich and earthy, with strong minerality and ripe stone-fruit flavors. The 2008 is fresh and lively with bright fruit that seems to gain a little richness and compotelike sweetness on the impressive finish.

Wine Traditions: Available in the District at Ace Beverage, Cork Market; on the list at Bistro la Bonne, Bistrot Lepic, Buck's Fishing & Camping, Cork Wine Bar. Available in Virginia at Au Domaine and the Winery in Alexandria, Wine Cabinet in Reston; on the list at Bastille in Alexandria.

Jean-Marc Brocard Domaine Sainte Claire Chablis 2008

* * 1/2

Burgundy, France, $25

This Chablis skews toward the citrusy side with lemon-lime flavors providing some zip. It pairs beautifully with food, dropping some acidity and becoming more mineral and earthy.

Elite: Available in the District at MacArthur Beverages, Wide World of Wines; on the list at BlackSalt, BLT Steak. Available in Maryland at Wine Cellars of Annapolis, the Wine Bin in Ellicott City; on the list at Bezu in Potomac, Petit Louis Bistro in Baltimore. Soon to be available in Virginia.

Simonnet-Febvre Chablis Premier Cru "Vaillons" 2007

* * 1/2

Burgundy, France, $26

Tight and mineral, it has citrusy flavors and a laserlike focus. This wine is young and will reward cellaring for a few years.

M. Touton Selection: Available in the District at Circle Wine & Liquor, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Magruder's, Paul's of Chevy Chase, Wide World of Wines. Available in Maryland at the Bottle Shop in Potomac, Fishpaws Marketplace in Arnold, Old Farm Liquors in Frederick, Rodman's in White Flint, Silesia Liquors in Fort Washington.

Maison Louis Latour Chablis "La Chanfleure" 2009

* *

Burgundy, France, $24

This is a lively wine that strikes a fine balance between the citrusy and earthy qualities of Chablis.

M. Touton Selection: Available in the District at Circle Wine & Liquor, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, MacArthur Beverages, Magruder's, Paul's of Chevy Chase, Rodman's. Available in Maryland at Old Farm Liquors in Frederick.

Domaine d'Elise Petit Chablis 2008

* 1/2
Burgundy, France, $16
(Great Value)

This producer earns a blanket recommendation for its excellent line of Chablis, but the Petit Chablis is my favorite because of its value and its unassuming simplicity. There's nothing "petit" about it, really, just lip-smacking chardonnay that provides an excellent and affordable introduction to the high-acid, flinty, mineral-driven style of Chablis.

Wine Traditions: Available in the District at P&C Market; on the list at Buck's Fishing & Camping. Available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, Au Domaine and Planet Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria, Wine Cabinet in Reston; on the list at Sushi Yoshi in Vienna..

Louis Jadot Chablis 2008

* 1/2
Burgundy, France, $26

It's a straightforward Chablis, rich with stone-fruit flavors (apricot and peach) and good structure, though not so firm that it is unapproachable.

Kobrand/Republic National: Available in the District at Georgetown Wine & Spirits, Safeway locations in Georgetown and L Street NW.

Key

*** Exceptional ** Excellent * Very Good

Prices are approximate. Availability information is from distributors and might not reflect current inventory; call wine stores to verify, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor.