Greek town becomes flash point in war against Muslim immigrants

Charges against Turkey

Turkey has become the source of so many Europe-bound illegal immigrants mainly because of geography, which places two wars near its borders, in Iraq and Afghanistan, along with a large dissatisfied population in Iran. But Greek authorities charge it indirectly facilitates the flow by refusing to take most captured illegal immigrants back and, as part of its pan-Muslim policies, granting entry without visas to planeloads of would-be emigrants from Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco.

The roundabout travel by North Africans in some ways is a tribute to a Frontex operation that began last year. Several European nations dispatched patrol boats to the Aegean to block delivery of illegal immigrants by sea.

As Piruz found out, that left Nea Vissa. Piruz, a 20-year-old Afghan, has made it as far as Istanbul on what he hopes will be a journey to Sweden for medical studies. On an animated square in Istanbul's Zeytiburnu neighborhood, he held a long conversation the other night with an immigrant smuggler. The sea is too dangerous, the smuggler told him, but for $1,000 crossing is possible over the Evros River. A smuggler will accompany you in a rowboat across the water, the young man was told, and for extra money will get you to Athens.

"I had some friends who went to France, and they got expelled right away," said Piruz, who wanted to be identified by his first name only. "But the Scandinavian countries are easier. They accept you."

Greece and its European neighbors have widely advertised the Frontex operation, with international border guards posing for television cameras. On one hand, the deployment is a celebration of European solidarity, an easy sell politically in most E.U. countries. On the other, authorities hope, news that patrols have been reinforced could produce a crackdown by Turkish border guards on the other side of the river and perhaps encourage smugglers to lie low.

There is some indication it is working. Authorities said arrests have dropped to between 75 and 100 in the days since Frontex patrols began. The deployment is to last at least two months and be evaluated to see whether it will be extended. But Kokkalakis says everyone knows that deploying extra border guards will not solve the problem.

"They want to close the border, but it is impossible," said Wajeed Sherifi, an Afghan who sneaked into Greece and has remained as an activist for immigrant rights. "It is like water. The immigrants will just find another channel."

Agreeing in their own way, Frontex officials pointed out that nearby Bulgaria will become part of the E.U.'s unrestricted, visa-less travel space early next year. Its 200-mile border with Turkey will make it the logical spot for immigrant smugglers to try next - and perhaps the next destination for Frontex guards.