Valentine's Day wine recommendations

Susana Balbo Late Harvest Malbec 2006/2007/2008

***

Mendoza, Argentina, $30 (500 ml)

From one of Argentina's hottest winemakers, this dessert version of the popular malbec grape is lush and velvety, suggestive of flourless chocolate torte; but if you're on a diet, with this wine you don't need the torte. Unfortunately, the wine is not widely available in this market. It should be. Because it is rare, vintages might vary; don't worry about that.

Vine Connections/Bacchus in the District and Maryland; International Cellars in Virginia: On the list in the District at the Jockey Club. Available in Virginia at Cecile's Wine Cellar in McLean; on the list at Panache in McLean.

Badia a Coltibuono Vin Santo 2004

**1/2

Tuscany, Italy, $45 (375 ml)

Rather dry for a Vin Santo, this wine has the typical acacia honey aspect but also a woodsy, sherrylike character. Quite intriguing and complex, it is probably best by itself as dessert or with a dry cheese, such as an aged pecorino.

Dalla Terra/Country Vintner: On the list at Zola in the District. Available in Maryland at Frederick Wine House.

Domaine Cauhape Symphonie de Novembre 2006

**

Jurancon, France, $25 (375 ml)

You know that sweet spot of the pineapple - about halfway or two-thirds up, depending on when you cut it - where the fruit tastes perfect? This wine captures it, along with some other tropical flavors, including star fruit. It is a mixture of the regional grapes petit manseng and gros manseng. Petit manseng is quite popular in Virginia; this wine offers an earthy Old World contrast to Virginia's fruitier style.

J.W. Sieg: Available in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits. Available in Virginia at Unwined in Alexandria and Bellehaven, Vienna Vintner, the Vineyard in McLean.

Mas de Lavail Maury Expression 2007

**

Languedoc-Roussillon, France, $22 (375 ml)

A slightly sweet wine made from grenache noir, this offers earthy, portlike flavors and an intriguing complexity.

Kacher/Washington Wholesale in the District; Reliable Churchill in Maryland; Robins Cellars in Virginia: Available in the District at MacArthur Beverages; on the list at Bistro Francais and Marcel's. Available in Maryland at Quarry Wine & Spirits, Wells Discount Liquors and Wine Source in Baltimore. Available in Virginia at Au Domaine in Alexandria.

Cascino Fonda Brachetto Il Roseto 2009

**

Piemonte, Italy, $22

Brachetto, the slightly sweet effervescent red wine of Piemonte in northwestern Italy, is an ideal wine partner for chocolate cake, brownies and the like. Its acidity and bubbles complement any fruit accents and cut through the richness of the chocolate. And it tastes like cherries. Chocolate and cherries: Who can complain?

Dionysus: Available in the District at A. Litteri, MacArthur Beverages. Available in Maryland at Balducci's, Bradley Food & Beverage and Cork & Fork in Bethesda; DiWine Spirits in Pikesville; Finewine.com in Gaithersburg; Iron Bridge Wine Co. in Columbia. Available in Virginia at Arrowine and Grand Cru in Arlington, Balducci's in Alexandria and McLean, Wegmans in Woodbridge and Gainesville, Whole Foods Market Fair Lakes.

Santa Julia Tardio 2007

*1/2

Mendoza, Argentina, $13 (375 ml)

A late-harvest version of torrontes, this wine offers the effusively floral notes of the grape, balanced by appropriate sweetness. The 2007 is a bit drier than usual but still represents a terrific value.

Winesellers/Country Vintner: Available in the District at Chevy Chase Wine & Spirits, Rodman's. Available in Maryland at the Bottle Shop in North Potomac, Rodman's in Wheaton and White Flint. Available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington.

Bonny Doon Framboise

*1/2

California, $16 (375 ml)

Actually an eau de vie distilled from raspberries rather than a wine, this is a delightful accompaniment to rich chocolate desserts, especially if there's a raspberry sauce.

Country Vintner: Available in the District at Chevy Chase Wine & Spirits, Connecticut Avenue Wine & Liquor. Available in Virginia at Balducci's locations in Alexandria and McLean; Christmas Attic in Alexandria; Red, White & Bleu in Falls Church; the Wine Cabinet in Reston.

Key

***Exceptional **Excellent *Very Good

Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor.