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Tom Sietsema on the Atlas Room: Two-chef restaurant lives up to name

WASHINGTON, DC-February 4: Chef and Owner Matt Cordes in the dining room of his restaurant The Atlas Room on H Street. (Photo by Scott Suchman/For the Washington Post)
WASHINGTON, DC-February 4: Chef and Owner Matt Cordes in the dining room of his restaurant The Atlas Room on H Street. (Photo by Scott Suchman/For the Washington Post) (Scott Suchman - For The Washington Post)
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Two hundred thousand dollars is a drop in a coupe when it comes to staging a restaurant, but that's the amount Cordes says he spent to retrofit the former Napa 1015 and make it his own. This diner is impressed by how much luxury and romance he imbues in the place, not to mention how the first-time restaurant owner makes the most of a small situation. (The office, coat closet and wine are hidden from view by those lovely draperies.)

Work-night dinners have been quiet in these early months, but you want to have a confirmed table on weekends. "Hi-I-hope-you-have-a-reservation?" my party was greeted by a harried host on a Saturday not long ago.

He ought to have that problem Tuesday through Thursday, too. The most ambitious kitchen on H Street NE deserves a full house every night.

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Two stars (Good)

The Atlas Room, 1015 H St. NE 202-388-4020. theatlasroom.com

Open: Dinner 5:30-10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 5:30-10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Major credit cards. Parking lot on 10th Street NE.

Prices: Small to large dishes $6 to $23.

Sound check: 70 decibels/Conversation is easy.


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