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Details: France's Dordogne region

Sunday, March 13, 2011; F07

DETAILS
Getting There

Air France and Delta airlines offer nonstop flights from Washington Dulles to Paris-Charles de Gaulle starting at $816 round trip. From the airport, take a TGV train to Angouleme. The trip takes 31/2 hours, and second-class fares start at $71 each way. Rent a car near the train station, and make the one-hour drive to St. Jean.

Where to Stay

Maison Rose

St. Jean de Cole

Owned by Jim and Mary Oppel, this restored three-bedroom stone house runs about $3,000 a week. To book, contact Jim at james.oppel@wanadoo.fr. For more rentals, check out www.justfrance.com.

Moulin du Roc

Avenue Eugene Leroy, Champagnac-de-Belair

011-33-5-53-02-86-00

www.moulinduroc.com

This charming 17th-century mill house has 13 rooms starting at about $240 a night.

Where to Eat

L'Essentiel

8 Rue de la Clarte, 24000 Perigueux

011-33-5-53-35-15-15

restaurant-perigueux.com

This tiny but gracious restaurant is right off the main square of Perigueux. Local specialties include foie gras and risotto with black truffles. About $35 per person for lunch without wine.

Moulin du Roc

The high point of any trip to the region. Two lovely indoor dining rooms, but lunch on the terrace overlooking the river is spectacular. About $58 for lunch with wine and an aperitif.

Le Donjon

Place Halle, Bourdeilles

011-33-5-53-04-07-50

www.hostellerie-ledonjon.fr

Directly across the street from the Bourdeilles castle. The inner courtyard is perfect for lunch. Local sausage is a specialty. About $20 for lunch.

Moulin du Pont

Route du Grande Brassac, Lisle

011-33-5-53-04-51-75

www.moulin-du-pont.com

A 15-minute drive down the river from the Bourdeilles castle. Try fresh local trout at a riverside table. About $25 for lunch.

Hotel Le Saint Jean

011-33-5-53-52-23-20

On the edge of the village, with a nice leafy terrace and local foie gras. About $30 for dinner.

What to Do

Cave Tours

A day with Christine Desdemaines-Hugon is extraordinary but expensive. Her fee is 250 euros, or about $345. Add lunch and tickets at each site and the tab can reach $500. The Oppels can book her, or you can contact her directly at christine.desdemaines@gmail.com.

Canoeing

Many companies offer canoe trips; you can spot the large trailers that carry the canoes from the road. There are several right outside Brantome. Paddling around the city on the River Dronne costs about $10 per person per hour. Consult www.allocanoes.com for details.

The Oppels favor an ambitious trip along the Dordogne River that passes many chateaux. One company arranging these trips is at www.canoe-roquegeoffre.com. Rentals are about $19 per person for a shared canoe.

Sites such as the castle at Bourdeilles and the church at Aubeterre charge entrance fees of about $5 a person.

Information

St. Jean de Cole tourist offce

011-33-5-53-62-14-15

www.ville-saint-jean-de-cole.fr

S.R.

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