Goss's Garage

Pat Goss has worked on cars for more than 40 years. He owns a car repair company that bears his name, has authored numerous books on auto maintenance, and makes weekly appearances on Motorweek, a PBS television program.

He visits right here once a month to answer questions about fixing your car.

The transcript follows below.

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Waldorf, Md.: My car has approximately 163,000 miles on it and to my knowledge never has had any systems flushes (such as offered by BG). Is there any risk of now having such services done?

Thanks for being available.

Pat Goss: There is always some risk when a car has been seriously neglected. The only service to be concerned about though is the transmission flush. Even that depends on the condition of the fluid in the transmission not the miles. If the fluid looks good and smells good a flush would be okay. If the fluid is discolored and smells bad then leave it alone. All the other BG flushes would be fine.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Dear Mr. Goss,

Thanks for doing these chats and your radio show. Love 'em both. I recently bought a Ford Escape (2005, 3.0 liter V-6) that says it has electronic 4 WD. I remember on your show one time you said the only true 4WD has a shifter in the cabin for high and low 4WD. Can you clarify this for me? Does my SUV have 4WD or some type of version of AWD?

Pat Goss: By definition within the industry to qualify to be four-wheel drive the vehicle must have a low range gear in the transfer case. Whether it is activated by lever, push button, or rotary switch makes no difference. Any vehicle without low range is considered to be all-wheel drive.

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Louisville, Ky.: I have a 2003 Kia Spectra, I was on the expressway and my check engine light came on and the next thing I knew my gas accelerator was stuck. I have a 5-speed and the only way I could get it to stop accelerating was to put the car in neutral and turn the car off and restart quickly. The Kia company adjusted the throttle cable. Would this have anything to do with the pedal sticking, or can you give me any suggestions as to why it would stick sometimes and not others? Thank you for your time.

Pat Goss: Usually unintended acceleration is caused by a computer or cruise control malfunction. Throttle cables and the like could cause a vehicle to maintain an RPM but would not cause the vehicle to accelerate. In your case because the accelerate stuck it could have been the cable or simply a dirty throttle body.

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Damascus, Md.: Hi Pat, I own a 2000 Kia Sportage. My boyfriend is always flooring the gas pedal. He tells me that it doesn't affect gas mileage or do harm to the car. I say he is wrong. Please help. Thanks!

Pat Goss: Ahh, hate to disagree with him but one of the biggest single factors regarding poor fuel economy is a lead foot. Hard acceleration destroys fuel economy, shortens engine life, and shortens transmission life. In general it's an exceedingly bad habit.

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Houston, Tex.: Dear Pat,

I have a 1994 Nissan Sentra limited edition on loan from a family member. I am currently charged with maintaining the car to serve for my drive to and from work. Does it help the automatic seatbelts with longer life if I squirt some lubricant in the track where it moves back and forth. They both work good at this time, but want to ensure even longer life out of the car.

Thanks in advance.

Pat Goss: Can't you tell you specifically for that vehicle. Most of them worked better and lasted longer if the track was lubricated. You had to use a light lubricant to avoid gumming things up. Unfortunately there were some vehicles that wanted no lubrication. There should be a note in the service portion of the owner's manual.

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Warrenton, Va.: Hi Pat,

Last week, one of the Post columnists explained why he prefers stick shift cars as follows:

"Stick shift cars are better than automatics because they make driving a more enjoyable experience. It's simply more fun. They are better because they permit a greater degree of control over the car, once you know how to use them. And lower gas mileage, by a fairly significant amount. And they cost less. And weigh the car down less. And stick shifts are cool."

Clearly fun and coolness are hard to argue with. But is his assertion that stick shift cars get significantly better gas mileage really still true?

Pat Goss: That depends if you're really really gentle on the accelerator and you really truly know when to shift. You could possibly get better gas mileage. Although I doubt it would be significantly better. And for the average driver who is not a professional and doesn't know absolutely when to shift, the automatic may actually get better mileage.

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Columbia, Md.: Hi,

I have a 2002 Ford Focus (wagon) with 76,000 miles on it, and it has never had a transmission flush. Various people tell me not to have it now. I should've had it at 12,000 (or 24,000 or whatever) and to do it now would create debris. What do you think?

Also, it runs GREAT and I never want another car -- what can I do now to make sure I keep this one for a long time? I have regular oil and filter (including air and fuel) changes, but not much other maintenance. Thanks!

Pat Goss: Whether or not transmission flushing is advisable has nothing to do with the miles on the vehicle. And everything to do with the condition of the fluid. If the fluid is nasty, discolored, smells bad -- leave it alone. The damage has already been done. If the fluid still looks like new and smells like new, get it flushed. You can get a complete list of recommended maintenance at

www.goss-garage.com

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Washington, D.C.: I think I'd like to get a Prius for my next car but worry that I drive too little to keep the hybrid's battery alive. My first car was a Datsun 1200 that I sold after 18 years, 51,000 miles and 3 batteries. My current car is a 1990 Integra on it's third battery with 42,000 miles. Does the hybrid technology with its greater dependence on the battery fit with my low mileage driving style/needs? Thanks for your help!

Pat Goss: It would probably be alright because the batteries are very different then the one used to start the car. However, does the complexity, restricted availability of maintenance, and the other downsides to current hybrid technology make sense for such light use? Sure wouldn't in my book. I'd want the most simple, easiest to maintain vehicle, rather than the most complex.

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Washington, D.C.: Mr. Goss,

I enjoy reading about you on the Post and watching you on television. Now for a quick question. I drive a manual transmission Chevrolet Cavalier. I've heard people say downshifting is horrible and others say it is good. Your opinion? My other question is when waiting for a light am I better to leave my clutch in or to be in neutral? Again, I've got several answers on the second one. Thanks in advance!

Pat Goss: Downshifting can be great fun, and it saves brakes, but stop and think about that. You're saving wear on some of the least expensive parts on the vehicle by adding wear to the three most expensive parts on the car. Downshifting adds wear to the engine, the transmission, and the clutch. So if you enjoy it, go for it. If you're trying to save money, don't even consider it. Sitting at a light, the transmission should be in first gear, and the clutch pedal held to the floor.

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Washington, D.C.: I drive a 1994 Corolla with 143,000 miles. Would switching to a synthetic oil increase my car's longevity? And if I use a synthetic blend can I extend my regular oil change interval from 3,000 miles to say 5,000? Thanks.

Pat Goss: First, synthetic oils generally do not extend oil change intervals. The exception to that are three new oils from Mobil. A conventional oil with an additive package rated for 5,000 miles, a synthetic blend with an additive package rated for 7,500 miles, and a full synthetic with an additive package rated for 15,000 miles. Synthetic oils and synthetic blends always increase a cars life expectancy.

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Suitland, Md.: How much is too much to pay for any future repairs on an '89 Camry with 240,000+ miles?

By the way, the radiator hoses on this car are original. The dealer has repeatedly advised against replacing them, repeatedly turning down business in the process. Which will wear out first I wonder, the hoses or the car?

Pat Goss: When the monthly repair bills exceed the cost of owning and operating a new car. In order to figure that out, you would take the price of the new vehicle add tax and normal fees, amortize that over 4 or 5 years. Then amortize projected depreciation over the same time period, divide by the number of months in the time period, then compare the monthly repair costs to the cost of owning a new vehicle. Those are the hard numbers. Most people buy new cars not because it makes financial sense but because they are tired of the old car.

The hoses on your car wore out a long time ago (you're courting disaster), so the car has outlived the hoses.

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Atlanta, Ga.: We own a 1995 Camry, 4-cylinder, with 140,000 miles. Recently, it's been making a put-put noise while idling, I assume coming from the exhaust system underneath. It's not real loud, like a hole in the muffler, but is a similar, quieter sound. I don't see any leaks but I do smell a slight carbon burning smell after parking the car in the garage. What could this be? Should we still drive the car? Thanks.

Pat Goss: Sounds like an exhaust leak. Obviously smells like an exhaust. Probably is an exhaust leak. Car should be raised on a lift and with the engine running, the opening to the tailpipe should be blocked, this will amplify the leak and tell the technician where the noise is coming from.

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Baltimore, Md.: Mr. Goss --

Thanks for taking my question. I have a 2001 BMW 325xi that has been shimmying at around 65 mph for some time -- it's fine below and above that speed, but very, very noticeable there. The car has had a few bumps and scrapes (city driving, man-eating potholes, etc.), so I recently bought two new tires, had the new ones put on the rear and the rear tires swapped to the front, had all four balanced, and a full alignment done (front and rear). I also had my mechanic check out the axles and wheel mounts to make sure there wasn't some more serious damage, and he said it was fine. So, any ideas what it might be? It's annoying, especially given how well the car usually handles. Thanks.

Pat Goss: You discussed balancing, you discussed alignment, and all the things we wouldn't expect to be causing the problem. The one thing we would expect, you make no mention of. Roadforce variation. You need a shop that has a Hunter GSP9700 roadforce balancer, which will check roadforce variation and lateral and radial run out. It will also tell the technician how to move the tires on the wheels to eliminate the problem.

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Anytown, USA: Hi Pat. After 85,000 miles, my '01 Passat's original brakes are a little soft (since I don't tailgate, I don't have to use the brakes that much). I'm not having any trouble stopping, and there's no noise or anything, but I have perceived a little difference for the last 5,000 miles or so. The dealer wants to replace the rotors as well as the pads, etc. to the tune of about $400. Is that reasonable? Thanks!

Pat Goss: It's reasonable if that's what it needs. It's totally unreasonable if it's not what it needs. Soft pedal usually doesn't equate to worn brakes. It usually means a fluid problem and in this case might be due (unless you have done this) the need for a brake flush. Another consideration is if you are describing soft as more pedal travel, then the dealer is probably right on the money.

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Arlington, Va.: Pat,

I have a rubbing/grinding noise coming from my rear brakes on my Subaru (70K miles) when I apply the brakes. Is it time to replace something?

Pat Goss: I don't know if it's time to replace anything, but I do know the brakes should have been checked yesterday.

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Laurel, Md.: Pat,

1995 Dodge 2.5 liter engine. Check engine light came on twice. Light went out after engine restarted. Code was 21, O2 sensor not changing. Since then, two weeks have passed and the light has not come on. There are no drive-ability problems. The car has 61,000 miles on the original O2 sensor.

Would you leave it alone and get more mileage out of it or change it now? Also, should it be removed with the engine hot or cold? Tried removing it with the engine just warm and my O2 socket (cutout type) which does not have six sides started to slip around the Hex of the sensor. Are there better O2 sockets or are they all equal in quality?

Thanks.

Pat Goss: Leave it alone. First the code doesn't tell you that the oxygen sensor is bad. Only a test will tell you that. Codes don't tell what is bad, but what is being affected by what is wrong. To find out the real problem, you would have to run a test that matches the code number. In your cause you would run test # 21 for a 95 Dodge 2.5L .

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Alexandria, Va.: Pat,

I have a '95 Toyota Corolla with a driver's seatbelt that is fully extended and won't retract. It happened suddenly. It was fine when I got in the car and then after running an errand, when I pulled on it to put it on, it came all the way out. What's going on here, and any idea of what it's going to cost to have it fixed? Thanks.

Pat Goss: Bad news, usually it's the inertia reel retractor that goes bad and causes your problem. Other than debris removal, there is no such thing as seatbelt repair. They must be replaced.

The next problem ... because your car is 11 years old, it may not be available.

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California, Md.: I have a 1986 Honda Accord that requires a transmission fluid change every 10K miles. Honda says use only Honda fluid which costs much more than regular fluid. Is Honda fluid really required or is off the shelf transmission fluid good enough?

Pat Goss: Transmission fluid change every 10,000 miles, that's a new one on me. But if you say so. If your vehicle requires Honda specific fluid, I suggest you use it.

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King of Prussia, Penn.: Hi Pat,

For a front wheel drive (2005 Altima SE-R if it matters), would the front or rear set of tires normally wear faster?

Pat Goss: If you rotate them properly. Using a modified x rotation pattern. And you never exceed 7,500 miles between rotations. The tires will all wear at the same rate.

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Boyds, Md.: Mr. Goss, thank you for taking the time to answer our questions.

I own a 2004 Infinity G35, which I love. Infinity says that only premium gas should be used, but most of the people I talk to (admittedly, not experts) say gas is gas and that there isn't too much difference between 93 octane and 89 octane, and that if I put regular, the worst that can happen is pinging. Given that gas prices are soaring, can I lower my gas bill without endangering the car?

Thanks!

Pat Goss: You're on your own with that one. There is no way to know if there will be damage (there could be), if there will be no engine damage (that's possible too), or what exactly will happen on any individual automobile. One things for sure, if it does damage the engine, you won't know about it until it's too late. Because the computer will cover up all the symptoms.

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Gaithersburg, Md.: Do you still have those "preventive maintenance" auto clinics?

Pat Goss: Yes. When and where groups want them. Currently they're scheduled at the College of Southern Maryland in LaPlata.

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Alexandria, Va.: My BMW requires a special tool to remove the "oil service" light on the dash. Are there mechanics in the area, besides dealers, who can do the removal without a big hassle for various other additional services? Thanks.

Pat Goss: Sure. You just need to call some of the shops in you area. Lots of places have the tools.

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Fort Wayne, Indiana: Hi, Pat. I used to listen to your show every weekend on WJFK when I lived in D.C. a few years ago. I miss hearing your advice and commentary.

I have two questions. I hope you can answer them both.

My first question ... my husband and I have a 1994 Chevy S-10 with the 4.3 engine with 83,000 miles on it. It's been a wonderful vehicle, but lately we've experienced very rough engine idle. We were also frightened recently by an instance of the engine shutting itself off while at highway speeds (70mph+) on the interstate. Luckily we were able to get over to the shoulder. This was very unexpected! We've not had a repeat performance, but it's made us wary of taking the truck on long-distance trips. Do you have any advice for us?

My second question ... my husband and I are contemplating the purchase of a new Jetta TDI diesel. We're also interested in running it on biodiesel. What do you think of the new Jetta diesels, and do you have any opinion about biodiesel fuel?

Thanks so much in advance for any advice you can offer!

Pat Goss: I presume you may have a vortec engine, and if so you need to check the fuel injection system. As they have been very troublesome. Also check the crank shaft position sensor, the mass air flow sensor, and the ignition module.

I think the VW diesels are marvelous. Used to own one. Have now moved on to a Mercedes diesel. Biodiesel is fine, except for the additional cost in most areas.

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Kensington, Md.: Pat: On your WJFK show last Sunday, a caller reported his 88 Thunderbird turbo was overheating. He said he had a BG cooling system flush, but the overheating continued and he later noted the turbo and manifold were glowing red after shutdown. He also said his gas mileage had deteriorated. You pointed to an emissions analysis to see if the mixture was lean, and to test for a plugged catalytic converter. There is another possible cause of this condition: a slipped timing belt, something not uncommon on many engines including the Ford 2.3 4 cylinder turbo. I have two Merkur XR4Ts and know of some others with this car or engine who have found the timing belt to be the cause of the glowing turbo and performance and gas mileage deterioration.

I called WJFK to suggest this for your consideration but after 30 minutes waiting on the line I had to move on.

Thank you.

Pat Goss: You're absolutely right, but the caller said he had already checked that. That's why I didn't revisit it.

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Arlington, Va.: I have a 2004 Acura RSX with 15k miles on it. Recently, I've noticed that on medium-to-large bumps in the road, I hear kind of a clicking or creaking. Could the struts be going bad already? The car has been hit in the front and rear-ended already as well (both when the car was parked), but I don't know if that has any relevance.

Thanks, Karl

Pat Goss: Struts could have been damaged in one of the accidents. But unfortunately there are about 100 other things that could be causing the noise. All of which could be warranty, but could be accident related. I would have it checked as soon as possible, because all of these things could also be dangerous.

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Washington, D.C.: Pat:

I tailgate occasionally at football games, and like to listen to the radio. I've (temporarily) drained my battery using the car radio (with the car engine off). Is there anyway around this from happening? Is it temporary. Should I run the engine in order to avoid the problem instead? Thanks!

Pat Goss: Something doesn't add up. Modern car radios draw almost no power. That is unless you've modified your audio system. If the audio system is stock, and it's a late model vehicle, first order of business is to get the battery tested. Could be a weak battery.

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RE: Driver's seat seatbelt: That happened to me, it had to changed as it was all twisted in the mechanism. They couldn't match the color (maroon Buick at the time), so I ended up with black. It wasn't pricey either, certainly cheaper then a ticket for not wearing a seat belt.

Pat Goss: Sometimes you get lucky and color is the only problem. Unfortunately being in the business we find way to many of them that are no longer supplied by the manufacturer forcing us to install used parts or to find the proper parts through a locator service.

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Hagerstown, Md.: Pat -- I enjoy your show a lot.

I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500 with 4WD, 350 CID engine, auto transmission and about 160,000 miles. The check engine light is on, the code response says transmission slip and the shift from first to second is a little hard. I assume your first recommendation is to have a reputable transmission shop check out the transmission for needed repairs or possible replacement. My question is in three-parts ... first, are you aware of any specific weakness or propensity for this GM transmission's failure? Second, how much is this likely to cost? And third, can you recommend a good transmission shop in Frederick or Hagerstown, Maryland or if not, can you tell me how to distinguish a good shop from the shysters?

Thanks in advance.

Pat Goss: Don't find to many problems with the transmissions themselves, but we find huge problems with slipping torque converter clutches. Usually the check engine light signifies this problem and usually most people elect to ignore it as long as the transmission works properly and they don't have to pass an emissions test.

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Baltimore, Md.: Mr. Goss,

Is it ever OK to use after market parts on a car? Should you stick with the manufacturer recommended?

Pat Goss: Absolutely it's okay. In many cases, you'll find that it could even be beneficial. There are many aftermarket companies that redesign original equipment parts for better durability or performance. They're frequently referred to as problem solvers. However, it is imperative that you ask questions about the aftermarket parts. Because as there are superior aftermarket parts, there are also lots of junk aftermarket parts.

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Arlington, Va.: Pat, I'm in awe of your automobile knowledge. Do you have an internship or apprenticeship program? I'll be the first in line!

Pat Goss: Yes, I do from time to time.

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Annapolis, Md.: Pat -- I hope you can help shed light on a problem that's plagued my '94 Saab 900 automatic for several months. It's very sluggish moving from a stopped position, whether from park or after being stopped at a light. It also has little acceleration moving out into traffic on a highway. Once it gets going, it seems to be fine -- I can do 65 or 70, but very often, after I've been moving along for a while, the "check gear box" light comes on. (it doesn't come on when the car starts up). The service place I've taken it to says that they can't figure out the problem until the light comes on and stays on, which it doesn't. Any insight you can provide would be welcome.

Pat Goss: Not having much to go on. I can only relate to two items. The check gear box light and number two the acceleration problem. I think you could do well to have a qualified shop do a line pressure test on your transmission.

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Darnestown, Md.: I have a 2001 Ford Windstar with 36k miles. It gets pretty lightly, used and has had the scheduled maintenance.

Something in the steering system sprung a leak. I caught it before it ran dry, so there wasn't pump damage, but the dealer said the leak was in the rack, and not repairable. Quoted cost for the replacement included rack, hoses, pump, etc, and was over $1000. Does this sound right? The car runs fine, and I seem to add a few ounces of PS fluid every couple of months. Are there cheaper fixes? Should I just keep adding fluid?

Thanks.

Pat Goss: You need a second opinion. Doesn't make sense that it would need every last piece of the power steering system. Perhaps if it was a 136,000 miles that would make sense, but at 36,000 miles it should only need one piece (a rack, a pump, a hose) but not everything.

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Annandale, Virginia: I have recently had to put my Honda Civic EX in the shop when the engine light came on. Turns out mice had built a nest and chewed through the transmission cables or straps. There is no evidence of mice anywhere near where my car has been parked. Any suggestions on how to avoid this problem in the future? Anything I could hang somewhere under the hood to prevent it? Thanks for your suggestions.

Pat Goss: All right, that is an incredibly common problem. Extremely difficult to deal with. In some cases, pest exterminators have suggestions. Some folks say moth balls work, but I have seen no evidence of that working with anything other than cats. There are also some specialty companies you can access on the Internet that claim to have solutions. We've tested some and found them to be totally without merit. So I guess the answer is, I really don't have an answer. Sorry.

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Reston, Va.: What do you think of the late model (2003-06) Passats repair cost and dependability wise? I am in need of a new (or used) car, because my old Passat ('99) was totaled in an accident.

Any suggestions for alternative makes/models I should consider that are similar?

Thanks!

Pat Goss: If you liked your '99 Passat and were happy with its dependability and repair costs. You will absolutely love a newer one, especially an '06. Far, far improved.

Alternates Honda Accord, Toyota Camry, Buick Lacross, Nissan Altima, and bunch of other really great cars these days.

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Pat Goss: Thanks everybody, as always, I enjoy your questions and comments. Take care, drive gently, see you next month. Pat

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