Free Range on Food

Vegetarian Chili

A chat with the Food section staff is a chance for you to ask questions, offer suggestions and share information with other cooks and food lovers. It is a forum for discussion of food trends, ingredients, menus, gadgets and anything else food-related.

Each chat, we will focus on topics from the day's Food section . Do you have a question about a particular recipe or a food-related anecdote to share? The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET.

The transcript follows.

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Bonnie: Turkeys on every cooking mag cover and testing ovens are cooling down...are you getting into Thanksgiving mode? Remember, you can send q's about the holiday prep to food@washpost.com until Nov. 9. We'll publish answers in our Nov. 16 and Nov. 20 issues. Also a note about this year's annual Thanksgiving takeout list, compiled by editorial assistant Terri Sapienza: It's running in the Nov. 9 issue of Food, to give you a head start on placing orders.

For today's chat, the gang's all here. Maybe you don't have a whole cookbook's worth of recipes of your own, but you've got one that's a signature standout.

We'll give Lisa Yockelson's big new "Chocolate Chocolate" to the chatter who shares the best, easiest, ORIGINAL recipe (honor system rules apply). We'll post the winner near the end o' the chat; be sure to send us your address by e-mail to food@washpost.com.

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Silver Spring, Md.: OK, so what inspired you to run a story romanticizing the wine-drinking of William Faulkner, a life-long binge drinker and borderline alcoholic, with cutesy stories about holiday arguments and smuggling?

Oh, and "redneck" is one of those words you really aren't supposed to use unless you are one.

Judy H.: We just thought people might be interested in his connection to wine in this area and his daughter's vineyard.

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Reston, Va.: Where can I buy free-range chicken (preferably organic) near Reston? Whole foods, Giant, and Safeway don't carry it.

Candy: Hi Reston. Have you tried Wegman's, either in Sterling or in Fairfax (near Fairfax Corner)? I think they may have it in the refrigerated case directly across from the meat counter. Or give them a call and ask and save yourself a trip.

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Whining about wine: Good lord, please not another wine story without anything practical about wine. We want more Ben!

Speaking of Ben, could you ask him for a recommendation: I am making a special dinner for my fiance, starting with curried cream of cauliflower soup, followed by stuffed tenderloin of beef and baby potatoes. What wine should I serve?

Judy H.: Here's Ben's recommendation: For the first course, Ben thinks you might like to go with an Alsace white, perhaps Hugel Gentil--a blend of various Alsace grapes. For the tenderloin, try a petite shiraz. He says it is expensive, about $35, but worth it. If that is out of your price range, he likes a Foppiano, which has lot of body. He thinks that would go well with the tenderloin, particularly if it has a robust stuffing. It costs about $18. His final suggestion is that you reread "The Sound and the Fury."

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Cake lover: Please, please give us Lisa Yockelson's recipe for Coca Cola cake that you mentioned in today's article. It sounds just like something my family would love.

Candy: Ok, Cake Lover, here it is. This is a classic cake that will being raves. It's not a dark chocolate cake, it has a paler color, but with a wonderful texture.

The Coke's caramel flavor pairs really well with cocoa powder, and the bubbles adds to the buttermilk and leavening to give the cake an amazingly light texture. If you're a Pepsi fan, you can use that. In Texas, we used Dr Pepper cuz it was invented there and Texans get all chauvinistic about stuff like that. Don't use diet soda--the fake sugar will affect the flavor.

For the icing, it needs to be spread on a hot cake. That's part of the secret of the cake's taste and texture. It creates a thin layer of terrific frosting. Don't expect some 3-inch layer of sugary stuff.

Final note: Superfine sugar can be found in most grocery stores. Dutch process cocoa is alkalized to give it a smoother flavor. For best results with this cake, follow the directions exactly.

Coca-Cola Cake

(From Lisa Yockelson's "ChocolateChocolate")

1/2 cup buttermilk

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into large chunks

1 cup Coca-Cola

1/4 cup unsweetened Dutch process cocoa powder

2 cups bleached all-purpose flour

2 cups superfine sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 large eggs

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Coca-Cola Frosting (recipe follows)

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Spray inside of a 13x9x2-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray.

Whisk the buttermilk and baking soda together in a nonreactive bowl. In a few minutes, the buttermilk will swell somewhat.

Place the butter, Coca-Cola and cocoa powder in a large saucepan, set over moderately high heat and bring to a boil.

In the meantime, sift the flour with the sugar and salt into the bowl of a freestanding electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Pour the hot Coca-Cola mixture over and mix on moderately low speed until thoroughly combined, about 2 to 3 minutes. Blend in the eggs, vanilla, and buttermilk-baking soda blend. Mix well to combine. The batter will be thin.

Pour and scrape the batter into the prepared pan. Bake in preheated oven to 20 minutes, or until risen, set and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clan. The baked cake will pull away slightly from the sides of the baking pan.

Let baked cake stand in the pan on a cooling rack for 5 minutes. To frost the cake (see frosting recipe below), carefully place dollops of the frosting on top of the hot cake. Smooth over the frosting with a small frosting knife or rubber spatula, taking care not to cut into or dislodge the top of the cake. The frosting will begin to melt down a bit as you spread it on the hot cake, but it will set as it cools.

Coca-Cola Frosting:

3 3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons powdered sugar, sifted

Large pinch of salt

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled to tepid

2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, melted and cooled to tepid

1 1/2 tablespoons vanilla extract

6 tablespoons Coca-Cola, at room temperature

Combine the powdered sugar and salt in a large mixing bowl. In a small bowl, whisk the butter and melted chocolate until smooth. Blend in the vanilla extract. Pour the chocolate mixture over the powdered sugar, add the Coca-Cola, and beat on low speed for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, or until just combined and smooth, using an electric hand mixer. Scrape down the sides of the mixing bowl frequently to keep the frosting even-textured.

Use the frosting immediately or press a sheet of plastic wrap directly onto the surface. The prepared frosting can be made about 15 minutes before using. It will firm up as it stands.

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Takoma Park, Md.: Here's my best dinner standby. I don't know if it is totally original, but I've made it my own over the years.

Turkey Sausage, broccoli rabe, onion and tomato stuff (over your favorite starch).

Take a package of hot Italian turkey sausage. You can use sliceable in a pinch, but why?

Brown it slowly in a saute pan. Add one sliced onion. Let the onion caramelize for about ten minutes in there with the sausage.

Add either a big can of Muir Glen chopped tomatoes or a compatible flavor of decent spaghetti sauce. If the former, dump in some Italian-type spice with the tomatoes.

Cook down for about 10 minutes.

Add one chopped-up bunch of broccoli rabe. Put the cover on the pan, wilt it into the sauce. Wait about five more minutes minimum, more if you can stand it.

Take off the lid, let it cook down if it is too watery.

Serve over your favorite starch. Potatoes, couscous, pasta, whatever.

Judy H.: Sounds like a keeper. Thanks.

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Silver Spring, Md.: You've been asking for Thanksgiving questions--here's mine: I grew up in Alabama, and my mom would sometimes order a fresh (never frozen) turkey at a local grocery store; they came from a nearby turkey farm a day or two before T'giving. We're hosting the meal this year for the first time, and I wonder if that's done somewhere here, or if some place like Whole Foods just has fresh turkeys as a matter of course? Do you need to reserve ahead of time?

Judith W.: Whole Foods has fresh turkeys right this minute. And most of the specialty food stores (that sell meat and poultry) will have them too. But it's always a good idea to call and reserve one for pick-up on a particular day. You can also inquire at the farmers market in Silver Spring to see if anyone there will have one (likewise, reserve, and specify how big a turkey you'll need). And for that matter, check at your local supermarket. Just ask to speak with the butcher.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi,

Can you explain the whole cast-iron skillet thing to me? I don't get it.. I have one, and seasoned it according to the directions that came with it. Will it darken though over the years? I have only used it probably 3 or 4 times, but it doesn't look black like my mother's does. Will it darken as time passes and it is used more? And, what's the deal with how you are supposed to clean it. I could swear I heard that you weren't supposed to use soap? But that doesn't make much sense to me...

Thanks!

Judith W.: I have to say, I know what you mean--it's a leap of faith. But yes, it will darken, but not instantly. I have a very old wok that's fairly dark, but it took years. As for cleaning cast iron, yup, you're not supposed to use soap, but (and I know it's not cool to admit this) once in a while I do. A little bit. It's kind of a culinary sin, but I worry about bugs......

Candy: Yes, D.C., your cast iron skillet will darken over the years. The no-soap rule is the same rule used with Chinese woks--you want a layer of oil to build up so that the surface is "seasoned" and food doesn't stick. You can scrub it with hot water and a brush to get rid of any food residue, but no soap. To prevent any bacteria, both woks and cast iron are heated very high (to kill germs) before adding the food. Cast iron works so well because it holds heat so evenly. To me, there is no substitute for a steak seared in a cast iron skillet.

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Fairfax, Va.: I've started putting mulling spices in my apple cider and the box says to try with red wine, also. What type of wine would you suggest? Thanks!

Judy H.: Our wine guy, Ben Giliberti, suggests something inexpensive and fruity. If you can wait for the beaujolis nouveau wine to arrive (mid November) that would be a good choice, and in the meantime, you might try an Australian Yellow Tail shiraz.

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Alexandria, Va.: Loved the cookbook article! Do you know whether Jose Andres is planning any book signings in this area with the release of his book? My parents are huge fans and this would be a perfect Christmas present for them! Thanks!

Walter: Publicist Heather Freeman tells we there will be three book signing dinners at Jaleo restaurants (Nov. 10, 14 and 15) in Penn Quarter, Crystal City and Bethesda. Call 202-628-7949 for information.

Judith W.: Three ways to do this. If you want a really festive present and are willing to spend $85 per person for dinner and an autographed copy of the book, chef Andres will host celebratory dinners at Jaleo. Nov. 10 in Arlington, Nov. 14 at the original Jaleo in the District, and Nov. 15 in Bethesda. For more info, call 202-638-1910, x.33 to speak with his assistant. He will also be signing books at Sur La Table in Pentagon City but date hasn't been set yet. Call the same number to get more info. And there will be autographed copies to purchase at his restaurants: Cafe Atlantico, Oyamel, Zaytinya and any Jaleo. Speak to the manager on duty for a personalized inscription.

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Baking question: I frequently am asked to make a nondairy dessert for people who are lactose intolerant or for kids who have dairy allergies. What do your baking experts say about substituting a nondairy margarine for butter in recipes?

Candy: The baking experts say there is no comparable substitution for butter's flavor. That said, sometimes we just can't use butter and a nondairy margarine can be substituted. But what about making a dessert that doesn't need butter--like a fruit pie or cobbler? There's also the Depression-era chocolate cake made with vinegar, eggs and oil that contains no dairy at all. If you can, try looking for recipes that either don't use butter, or use only a small amount so that the use of margarine won't greatly affect the flavor and texture.

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Washington, D.C. Desserts: I loved reading about the dessert cookbooks in today's section, but my question has to do with restaurant desserts. Is there any place you would recommend that has killer desserts? I'm always so disappointed when the dessert menu comes--it seems so unimaginative. Creme brulee, apple tart and sorbets are everywhere. I'd like to splurge on something I can't make at home.

Judith W.: Citronelle, Michel Richard's restaurant in the Latham Hotel in Georgetown. You will splurge on something you definitely cannot make at home.

There are also creative, good desserts in many of the area's finer restaurants. Maestro, CityZen, Equinox and others. There's a tempting selection made Ann Amernick at Palena in Cleveland Park. There are great American-style layer cakes at The Majestic Cafe in Old Town.

But nothing compares to Citronelle.

Candy: Majestic Cafe in Old Town features terrific versions of traditional American desserts, like coconut cake.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi everyone,

I'm planning on cooking a nice dinner tonight, utilizing some fresh asparagus and pre-cooked shrimp I've bought. Any particular recipes inspirations you could share would be much appreciated I'm thinking something lighter, as opposed to heavier fare...My culinary mind is not feeling creative today.

Thanks!

Bonnie: How about a salad?

Asparagus, Shrimp and Pea Salad

6 servings

As a sweet contrast to the earthy asparagus, use sweet peas, whether shelled English peas, snow peas or sugar snap peas.

For the vinaigrette:

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

2 teaspoons prepared mustard, preferably Dijon

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/2 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons snipped chives, plus additional for garnish

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

For the salad:

1 1/2 pounds asparagus, boiled or steamed and cooled in an ice bath

3/4 cup peas or tightly packed snow peas or sugar snap peas, cooked and then cooled in an ice bath

1 pound cooked shrimp, chilled

2 hard-cooked egg yolks, chopped (optional)

For the vinaigrette: In a bowl, whisk the vinegar, mustard, mayonnaise and salt and pepper to taste, then slowly add the oil in a thin stream, whisking until completely incorporated. Add the chives and parsley and combine. Set aside.

For the salad: Arrange the asparagus on a platter. Whisk the vinaigrette to recombine and spoon about 1/3 of it over the asparagus. Set aside.

In a bowl, combine the peas and shrimp. Pour the remaining vinaigrette over the top, toss gently to combine and spoon the shrimp mixture over the asparagus. If desired, top with the chopped egg yolks and, if desired, garnish with the chives. Serve immediately.

Per serving: 314 calories, 19 gm protein, 4 gm carbohydrates, 25 gm fat, 150 mg cholesterol, 3 gm saturated fat, 267 mg sodium, 3 gm dietary fiber

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Washington, D.C.: Your list of sweet, tart and sweet/tart apples did not include a lot of the kinds of apples that were available this morning in my Giant. Any chance you could publish a longer list with Braeburn, Roma, and other common apples in the stores broken down by tartness? Thanks for the stories. Very useful.

Marcia: With all the space in the world in cyberspace, we're happy to provide a fuller list, and I've seen several of these apple varieties at Giant and Safeway so you should have your pick. For those who might not have seen the article, the idea is to mix up the apples you put in an apple pie or tart: using, say, two tart apples, two sweet ones and two sweet-tart apples rather than all six of the same variety. Makes for more depth of flavor. The list below repeats what we published 10/19 and adds some more varieties (mostly of the sweet-tart variety) that we're seeing in supermarkets. Happy baking!

SWEET

Golden Delicious, Golden Grimes, Gala, Eastern Gold, Rome Beauty

TART (starting with the most tart)

Granny Smith, Rhode Island Greening, Gravenstein, Stayman, Winesap

SWEET-TART

Jonathan, McIntosh, Newtown (Albemarle) Pippin, Northern Spy, Fuji, York, Braeburn, Cortland, Jonagold, Cameo, Empire.

Don't bake with Red Delicious or Eastern Red, says Tom Burford ("Professor Apple"), unless you want mush -- he calls the flavor "insipid."

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Washington, D.C. Where's a girl got to go to find a decent butcher in this town? I want a place where there is an actual person working instead of row after row of ground beef and NY strip. Im dying to get a pork shoulder, a butterflied leg of lamb...

Walter: For a good butcher in town try Wagshal's in Spring Valley, 202-363-0777.

Candy: You could also try Balducci's--there's one near AU on New Mexico Ave., and one in Bethesda on Democracy and Old Georgetown. Their butchers are good.

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Gaithersburg, Md.: OK, so there is a dessert that an old friend used to make called "dirt". It had cream cheese and oreos in it. Have any of you or the 'nuts out there heard of this? I loved it! She used to make gravestones out of Milano cookies and everything !

Candy: The dirt dessert is a big hit with kids. I've even had it at baby showers made in tiny flower pots. Basically, you whip together instant pudding mix with milk, Cool Whip and cream cheese (although I've had friends who just make the pudding). You put this in little CLEAN flower pots (or in a 13x9-inch pan) and top with crushed Oreos (the "dirt"). Then stick in the Milano "gravestones" or use little gummy worms coming out of the dirt (guaranteed EEW factor) or flowers.

Here's one formula for the filling, but I'm sure if you Google "dirt dessert" you can find dozens more:

Whip together 3 pkg. (6 oz. each) fudge instant pudding,

4 1/2 c. milk, 16 oz. carton Cool Whip, thawed, and 8 oz. cream cheese, softened. Crush 1 1/4 lb. Oreo cookies for the dirt.

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Gaithersburg, Md.: Submitting early, but have a question about cookbook publishing. What about self-published books or creating your own web site with your family recipes? I'm thinking of doing that instead of going the agent-big publishing house route. What are my chances of success?

Judith W.: It depends on what you mean by success. Do you want to get your recipes out there (very possible), or to make money (very, very unlikely)? Creating your own web site with family recipes is a great idea--inexpensive, lots of room to say what you want, and you can post photographs. Self-publishing is a whole different thing. Expensive, time-consuming, hard to market. Community cookbooks were the first to be sort-of self-published. Then entrepreneur Ellen Rolfes took them to a whole new level. A good resource is her "How to Write a Classic Cookbook."

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Maryland: Recently I've opened a few eggs purchased from a small farm and noticed that the eggs had a neon green tint to the white. I ate it anyway. Is the egg safe? Other eggs in the carton looked normal. What causes that coloration?

Bonnie: And you lived to tell the tale, Md. American Egg Board pros say that a slight greenish cast in the raw white may be due to the amount of riboflavin within--riboflavin and protein are naturally found in egg whites.

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Alexandria, Va.: Thanks for taking my question! I bought a jar of pinjur at Trader Joe's the other day. What do I do with it?

Bonnie: If the ingredient list on the jar includes eggplant, walnuts, olive oil and maybe red pepper, then you've got a vegetable spread that's worthy of crusty bread or crackers, or perhaps a nice piece of grilled fish. Depending on how watery the mix is, you could plop a teaspoon or so of it in the middle of a won ton wrapper and make your own quick ravioli.

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Cast-iron land: To scrub either a cast-iron skillet or a wok, you need kosher salt. I use nothing but hot water and kosher salt on mine, and both pans have a beautiful patina. After scrubbing, dry the pan over low heat, and, if it looks dry, rub it with a little extra oil on a paper towel.

Candy: Thanks, Cast Iron lover. I had forgotten about the kosher salt trick. It acts as an abrasive, but doesn't get rid of all the seasoning like soap would. And you're right--a little touch of oil helps.

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Phyllo Dough Question: I am making spanikopita for a cocktail party on Friday. If I make sure it stays moist and well-wrapped, do you think I am OK making the spanikopita on Thursday, and baking it off on Friday?

Judy H.: I haven't made the dough in advance, but I think it should work if you wrap it airtight. A quick search of the Web suggests that a lot of people are using the frozen phyllo leaves rather than making it at all. Yours should be much better.

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Detroit, Mich.: Foodies, I have a stinky question. I loved making braised cabbage and beef, but the smell is awful. My husband hates it and has banned the recipe from our house. Is there something else close that I could make that won't smell up the house? By the way, he feels the same way about cooking cauliflower.

Candy: Detroit--My mother-in law used to make stuffed cabbage and I know just how your husband feels. I'd walk into her house and want to walk right back out. My husband WANTS me to make it for him, but I refuse.

So here's some alternative suggestions for braised dishes that make the house smell GOOD: How about an Italian-style pot roast with eye of the round roast cooked in a red wine and tomato sauce with onion, carrot, celery, rosemary? You could also make a Mexican-style pot roast with sirloin roast braised for a couple of hours with onion, jalapeno, salsa, cumin and beef broth. Or take a tip from my MIL--she made a slow-cooked brisket with onion, carrots, red wine, broth and dried apricots. Talk about a yummy smell...

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Kensington, Md.: For the chatter looking for a fresh turkey...My family has been going to Maple Lawn Farms in Fulton, Maryland. They are absolutely the best turkey around. My parents from Ohio even have us bring one back when we go there for Thanksgiving. You have to order them online or over the phone and then you go to the farm and pick it up. Quite an experience but absolutely fresh.

Judy H.: Thanks, Kensington.

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Groton, Conn.: Whatever happened to Michael Franz? I really enjoyed his and Ben's wine columns, and how they focused on a style or region. Saw a column on wine by Michael in a Florida newspaper last week that carried the Wash Post tagline, so I am curious.

Judy H.: Michael Franz has established a Web site, http://winereviewonline.com/. Perhaps the column that appeared in the Florida newspaper was written a few weeks ago?

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Gaithersburg, Md.: I made the gingered butternut squash - pork stew from last week's section. VERY YUMMY. I made a few changes that I wanted to share with the foodies. I swapped potatoes for the turnips, and probably used a pound of them, and increased the squash to about a pound. And after browning all the elements I threw them in the crock pot and cooked on low all day. While this worked extremely well on the meat, potatoes, and sauce, the squash pretty much dissolved. I will make this again, but I think next time I wont saute the squash with the onions and potatoes. It didn't need the head start. Also, that 1/4 tsp. of cayenne gave it a nice kick....never enough of a kick for me, but it really kicked my husband who is not a spice fan. But he had thirds anyway.....

Bonnie: We'll pass that along to Stephanie Witt Sedgwick, who developed the recipe. It's a confident cook who finds his/her own way to induce third helpings.

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Silver Spring, Md.: For the person looking for a butcher try Snider's in Silver Spring at Georgia and Seminary. Our family has been shopping there for 20 years and the meat is always really good. They also have unusual cuts and would probably get you anything you wanted ie pork shoulder or leg o' lamb. Another option is trying the Dutch Markets in Germantown, Annapolis or Burtonsville.

Judy H.: Great suggestion, Silver Spring.

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Washington, D.C.: This is a veggie chili recipe that I made up - It makes a ton and freezes well. It's also inexpensive and healthy, two things I try to stick to. Using the refried beans thickens the soup. I'm actually about to heat some up now...

Ingredients

1 can Red Kidney Beans

1 can canned great northern beans

1 can Black Beans

1 large onion

1 can Fat-Free Refried Beans

2 cans canned crushed tomatoes

3 large stalk celery

3 clove garlic clove

1/2 cup carrot

2 cup fat-free chicken broth

1 packet chili seasoning

Instructions

Saute onions, garlic, celery and carrots in large pot with olive oil. Add rest of ingredients, and stir until ingredients are well incorporated. Cover and simmer for 1 hour.

Makes about 14 cups.

Judith W.: Sounds good. I like to add chopped red pepper (sweeter than green) to the vegetable mix too. (Just a thought--folks who are sensitive to additives or can't handle much salt might add chopped garlic to the veg mix and substitute chili powder for the chili seasoning).

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Washington, D.C.: my favorite meal these days is probably a derivative of someone else's, but i've made it my own through the years. i take thick turkey sausages out of their casings (try shady brooks farms brand) and saute with garlic and onion...deglaze with some chicken stock, maybe some wine...toss in a can of diced tomatoes w/italian seasonings....and simmer for the time it takes to boil up pasta. you can add red peppers to the saute, or add a can of white beans at the end. either way, pour sauce over pasta and enjoy! it's very versatile and always comforting.

Judy H.: Sounds like something that would be perfect for a night like tonight when the temperature is supposed to be about 42.

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Clifton, Va.: Where can I find real apple cider? Not apple juice. But real apple cider that is not pasteurized or homengized etc. You know the suff that turns into apple jack and has a slight bubbly quality after a few days.

Walter: Such hard-to-find apple cider can be found at Williams Orchard in Flint Hill, Va. call 540-675-3765.

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Washington, D.C.: For imaginative desserts, don't forget Restaurant Eve's "Birthday Cake." How many fine dining places would stick that in front of you -- and make it worth it?

Judy H.: Thanks Washington. I should have thought of this last week when somebody sent me an e-mali and asked where you could still get a good cake at a restaurant.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Why do companies discontinue popular wonderful foods?

I finished the last of a case of the amazing, essential Annie Chun Ginger Chicken broth and tried to order another...only to find that the company had discontinued all of its broths.

Bonnie: Different reasons, as you suspect, Silver Spring. I admire your ability to manage supplies. That soup was discontinued in December 2003. A company spokesman has just told us that the cost of producing the soup was just too high. She wouldn't divulge the recipe, but keep your fingers crossed: She also couldn't confirm whether or not the company might make the soup again someday. My husband still bemoans the loss of a particular kind of Archway oatmeal cookie.

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Fairfax, Va.: HELP!!! I'm making my first Thanksgiving this year. How much Turkey should I make? I'm cooking for 8 adults and 6 kids (all are VERY good eaters).

Judith W.: Wow, that's a big group for your first Thanksgiving. Good for you! The general rule is one pound of unstuffed turkey per person, which adds up to a 14 pound turkey. You could go up to 16 to 18, but I wouldn't go higher than that for a first turkey. While you're roasting it, you'll have to pay attention to a larger bird for a very long time.

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Madison, Wisc.: My favorite recipe I made up on the fly (easy to double and adjust to your tastes and kitchen ingredients)

Tequila Lime Chicken Fun

2-3 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (whole or cut in strips)

1 shot Tequila (shot glass is 1oz I think)

1 shot lime juice

1/2 teaspoon salt (or to taste, should be pretty salty though)

Black pepper to taste

1 shot oil (I use olive oil, but vegetable oil works too)

Cajun seasoning to taste (or paprika or cayenne)

1. Mix all ingredients but chicken in a bowl.

2. Pour marinade into freezer bag with chicken, seal with as little air in the bag as possible.

3. Marinate in refrigerator for at least 30 minutes (if possible, you can do less if you are pressed for time).

4. If you want to grill, that works nicely even on indoor grill.

5. If you saute or don't like to grill, reserve the marinade while browning the chicken. Then once chicken is browned well, pour in marinade in pan to deglaze (scrape brown bits up), simmer until chicken is done through.

Serve with rice, pilaf, tortillas, pasta, whatever you like!

It was a hit each time I've made it!

Bonnie: Alright, Madison.

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Cleveland, Ohio: From Eastern European Central here--if beef and cabbage girl's husband objects to the over cooked smell of cabbage, make a roast and sautee onion and green cabbage that you've sliced thinly. Really, it smells good! Add some caraway at the end. If you toss it with cooked egg noodles, you have the Slovak hlouska, which is a big community fair seller out here.

Judith W.: That's a great idea. Slicing the cabbage will allow it to cook much more quickly, preventing that smell. I slice (at least in half, sometimes quarters) brussels sprouts for the same reason. I saute them in a pan in which I've just cooked cubes of Italian bacon.

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Washington, D.C.: I was disappointed that you didn't include a recipe for oyster stew in your oyster story today. Do you have one you can recommend?

Bonnie: In full disclosure, author/chef Russell Cronkhite did give us one, but we thought readers might have had their fill of stew in the many stew recipes in last week's issue. Send your request by e-mail to food@washpost.com and we'll send you his version.

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Alexandria, Va.: My favorite easy recipe -

Take chicken or turkey breast and pound thin. Dredge in seasoned four, egg wash then a 50/50 mixture of seasoned breadcrumbs and parmesean cheese. Pan fry in olive oil - just a couple of minutes on each side. Serve with baby arugula tossed with lemon, olive oil and sea salt. Some extra lemon wedges on the side for squeezing on the chicken make a nice presentation.

Bonnie: Ah, what would we do without boneless, skinless poultry? Thanks for onpassing.

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Local turkeys: Maple Lawn Farms in Highland, MD (just north of Silver Spring) sells turkeys.. We've bought one for the last few years through Boarman's grocery in Highland.

Judith W.: Thanks for the suggestion.

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Maryland cast iron: I use either a stiff wok brush or one of those woven plastic mesh pads plus hot water to clean the pan. Dry then lightly

oil afterwards.

Judith W.: Thanks and yes, the drying is important. Maybe even ten to 20 seconds over a hot flame. You don't want rust.

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Arlington, Va.: Re: superfine sugar, no, it cannot be found in most grocery stores. At least in my area, no Safeway or Harris Teeter stores carry it. Giant is the only place I can find it. Does someone know of another source close to North Arlington?

(You can also make it by putting regular granulated sugar in the food processor.)

Candy: Well, darn, Arlington. I found it pretty easily in Reston, but you may be right that it's harder to find than I thought.

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Washington, D.C.: Isn't it funny how a lot of these favorite easy recipes use sausage? It's such a good, fast flavor.

I brown and crumble turkey sausage (I use hot, which I just cut out of the casings). When done, I dump a bag of baby spinach, cover, and let wilt. I then just pour on a few cans of chicken brother plus black pepper and a bit of basil and oregano, to taste. That's basically it until the end, when I cook some tortellini or ravioli in it (don't do that ahead of time, or they will overcook). It's so fast and simple and wonderful - especially when it's cold!

Judy H.: You're right about the sausage. Sometimes the nutritional analysis is a little hair-raising, but personally, I love sausage.

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Sweet tooth: Easiest and most delicious candy ever:

Buttercream Bon-bons

1 box confectioner's (powdered) sugar

1 stick of good, real, unsalted butter

Pinch salt

Dash of vanilla

Splash of heavy cream

Beat all ingredients together with a mixer dough should be sticky and thick- too thick to frost a cake, for example. Grab gobs of dough and roll them into small balls; for fun, stick a walnut in some of them, or a maraschino cherry. Place inch apart on a cookie sheet. Melt some dark or bittersweet chocolate (as rich as you can stand) and drizzle over the tops of the balls then stick them in the fridge to harden. The dark chocolate cuts some of the sweetness of the buttercream, which is amazing. Serve with milk for dessert. Incredibly easy and so decadent!

Bonnie: We are going to check that one out. A dentist's delight.

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Recipies and calories: The recipies you give in the food section include nutritional information - very nice! Is there a web site where I can take some of my old standbys, put in the ingredients, and get at least calorie count out?

Bonnie: If they are indeed old standbys, go to www.recipezaar.com and search for the recipe. The ones on that site have nutritional analyses. Welcome for chatters to weigh on this one.

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Washington, D.C. - non-dairy deserts: Look for carrot cake recipes - I know at least some/many of them are made with oil. Could dust the cake with powdered sugar instead of cream cheese frosting.

And from Alton Brown's Good Eats on Food TV - melt one bag of chocolate chips (some have dairy some don't), meanwhile puree one block of siken tofu in the blender until liquified, add the melted chips and, 1 T of honey, blend til well combined. Pour into graham cracker crust and chill in the fridge for a few hours. Yummy and doesn't taste like tofu.

Judy H.: I would never have thought of the tofu idea. Thanks for passing it on.

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"Fresh" Kosher Turkeys: Last week there was a discussion of brining turkeys and where to get fresh kosher turkeys. Two points: first, the koshering process itself involves salt, which is why these turkeys should not be brined, it makes no difference whether they are fresh or frozen; second, if you want to get a fresh one, a good place would be a kosher market, such as Shalom or Saul's in Rockville/Wheaton.

Judy H.: Thank you.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Old favorite family recipe. We would have this chowder before our holiday meals.

Corn Chowder

2 Potatoes (cubed and cooked as you would for potato salad)

1 medium onion (chopped)

4 pieces of bacon cooked and chopped

1 can evaporated milk (can use low fat)

1 can creamed corn

1 can regular cord (drained)

1/4 cup butter

milk to consistency

Salt and pepper to taste

Serve with oyster crackers (optional)

Mix all together. Can go in crock pot to keep warm. If on stove take care not to boil - just heat.

Judy H.: Thanks Silver Spring. I wouldn't have thought of the creamed corn. I assume you mean regular corn for the next ingredient.

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Bethesda Md.: So I made a great "veggie" chili this weekend too - you can simmer it, or throw it all in the crockpot. The ingredients are (in order of cooking)

1 onion

Garlic cloves

1 red pepper

1 jalapeno or other spicy chili

1 large can tomatos that are stewed or however chunky you like it

1 small can tomatos with seasoning in them

3 zucchini

Chopped mushrooms

1 can white beans (kidney beans are so gross i think!)

2 cups cashews (add these last so they add texture)

sprinkle parmesean to cover the top

Add in: grated mozzarella cheese or pepperjack (yum)

Spices: Chili powder, salt, pepper, paprika and a few drops of tabasco and/or worchestire to taste

(you can add ground turkey if you want too! this could also replace the squash)

Judith W.: Nuts are a great addition to a vegetable dish--nutritionally, for texture, and for that satisfaction factor that comes when you're full. Did you slice or chop the cashews?

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Alexandria, Va.: What are some simple things to do with butternut squash? I always seem to buy one this time of year and just wind up staring at it for a couple of months.

Marcia: One of my favorite things to do with butternut squash is to put it in risotto with some fresh rosemary. It's also great in autumn soups.

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Washington, D.C.: What kind of knife would you use to carve a pumpkin? Serrated or other?

Thanks!

Judith W.: You may need a couple of them--the sharpest you have that you can still keep control. I always found I could keep control of the delicate bits (facial features) with a smaller knife. A serrated knife can help slice off the top (or for that matter the bottom if you want it to sit nicely), but I find them hard to control in smaller spaces. Does that help?

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Washington, D.C.: I'm a big fan of Joan Nathan's cookbooks. Can you give me an idea of other types of recipes she has in this new book besides the chicken and lemon grass?

Candy: Greetings, Nathan fan. We're big fans, too. What are you interested in? She has a whole section on starters and small plates with things like dips and soups. I particularly like the grains and pasta section--soba noodle with peanut butter sauce, Iraqi-style rice-stuffed Vidalia onions from a family in Va., in the meat section there's oven-roasted lamb with pomegranate sauce, jambalaya, southern-style short ribs, Jamaican jerk chicken, Jewish brisket and a great hoisin-roasted chicken. Basically, it's a book that's just like this country--full of every kind of dish imaginable.

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Rockville, Md.: My "personal best" easy, cheap recipe:

boil pasta from one box of Mac-n-cheese (we usually use Trader Joe's).

while pasta is boiling, chop onions or shallots.

saute onions/shallots in a little butter or olive oil. also add frozen peas to saute. season with black pepper to taste.

once the onions are translucent and the peas are thawed, add a fruity wine (red if you don't mind pink pasta, but chardonnay will do nicely, too.) Let the wine reduce a bit.

When pasta is done, drain it.

Instead of adding milk & butter, substitute yogurt mixed with the cheese pack. Mix pasta & cheese sauce with the peas and shallots.

Garnish with any cheese you like: personal faves are smoked gouda or gorgozola.

Judy H.: Thanks, Rockville.

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Washington, D.C.: I'm plannin on making some butternut soup, but a lot of recipes are either sweet or have curry as flavoring, neither which I want to do right now. Any suggestions for how I could make a spicy butternut soup? Thanks!

Marcia: Here's a recipe from Jack Bishop's "A Year in a Vegetarian Kitchen" (Houghton Mifflin, 2004). Haven't made it ourselves, but it might be what you're looking for.

Indian-Style Squash Soup With Spiced Pumpkin Seeds

(serves 4 as a main course)

For the soup:

1 medium butternut or buttercup squash (about 2 1/2 pounds)

3 1/2 cups water

1 cup unsweetened coconut milk

1/2 medium onion, peeled

12 cilantro stems

4 slices gingerroot, unpeeled, each 1/4-inch thick

Salt

1/4 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves

1 tablespoon lime juice

For the spiced pumpkin seeds:

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1/2 cup hulled green pumpkin seeds

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmg

1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom

For the soup: Halve the squash and use a spoon to scoop out and discard the strings and seeds. Cut the squash into pieces about the size of your hand. Remove the skin and a layer or two of flesh (you want to remove any whitish or green flesh right beneath the skin) with a vegetable peeler or paring knife. Cut the peeled squash into 1-inch chunks.

Bring the water, coconut milk, squash, onion, cilantro stems, ginger and 1 teaspoon salt to boil in a large saucepan. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer until the squash is very tender, about 30 minutes. Remove and discard the ginger slices and cilantro stems.

Puree the squash mixture and cilantro leaves in batches in a blender until very smooth. Stir in the lime juice and adjust the seasonings, adding more salt to taste. The soup can be refrigerated in an airtight container for several days. Warm over low heat.

For the pumpkin seeds: Melt the butter in a small skillet over medium heat. When the foaming subsides, add the pumpkin seeds and cook, stirring constantly, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer the pumpkin seeds to a small bowl and toss with the salt and spices. The seeds can be set aside for up to 1 hour.

To serve, ladle the soup into invididual bowls. Garnish each bowl with some pumpkin seeds.

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Madison, Wisc. (again): Oh whoops, in my tequila chicken recipe I forgot that you MUST add lots of minced garlic. I have used as much as four cloves, though I think for most people one large clove for the marinade is enough. Sorry for overlooking that.

Candy: Lots o' garlic--always a good thing. Especially now that it's near Halloween and all those vampires are lurking.

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Piscataway, N.J.: Re cast iron: I confess that I do use soap on my grill pan, the grooves tend to get a lot of stuff in them (especially when I use sugary marinades) and I think it works better to really clean it. First I heat it on the stove with a little water on it to boil off most of the stuck-on stuff, then plunge HOT into soapy water and scrape off the rest with a plastic knife (no metal). After it is clean I again season it by oiling it and heating for maybe ten minutes over a flame. It seems to work fine that way, and yes it is very black after many uses.

Judy H.: Thanks New Jersey. Sounds like practical advice.

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Cheesy question: Someone asked me but now I'll ask you. Can a cheese be made without animal-derived rennet? I guess she wants to avoid a product made from slaughtered calves.

Bonnie: Short answer's yes. You can find some cheese made with a coagulating enzyme that's either vegetable-, cloned or microbially based or has none of that enzyme (rennin). I don't think hard cheeses like cheddar can be made without animal-based rennet, but cottage cheese and ricotta are vegetarian-friendly. Check those labels.

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Washington, D.C. : I am not a gravy maker but want to serve it at Thanksgiving. Could you include that in your Thanksgiving issue?

Judith W.: You bet. We hope we'll have room both for a standard gravy and for one that relies on the drippings and turkey broth.

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Eggplant parmesan variation: Howdy - here's something I made the other night.

Peel and slice eggplants 1/2" thick. Dip in a beaten egg and coat in breadcrumbs. Saute in olive oil briefly.

Put into a ceramic baking dish with a good hearty marinara. Sprinkle chopped banana peppers - both sweet and hot - on top. Put another layer of eggplant and marinara on top. Cover with shredded parmesan and mozzerella.

Bake at 350 for 30 minutes, covered. Then uncover for a few minutes to get the cheese browned.

Judy H.: Thanks Eggplant. Sounds delicious.

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Falls Church, Va.: For organic, free-range chicken, Trader Joe's has both whole chickens and breasts.

Judy H.: Thanks, Falls Church.

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Rockville, Md.: "Personal best" easy, cheap recipe:

boil pasta from one box of Mac-n-cheese (we usually use Trader Joe's).

while pasta is boiling, chop onions or shallots.

saute onions/shallots in a little butter or olive oil. also add frozen peas to saute. season with black pepper to taste.

once the onions are translucent and the peas are thawed, add a fruity wine (red if you don't mind pink pasta, but chardonnay will do nicely, too.) Let the wine reduce a bit.

When pasta is done, drain it.

Instead of adding milk & butter, substitute yogurt mixed with the cheese pack. Mix pasta & cheese sauce with the peas and shallots.

Garnish with any cheese you like: personal faves are smoked gouda or gorgozola.

Judy H.: Thank you Rockville!

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Bonnie: What a bunch of inspired cooks today. The tequila lime chicken's our winner--be sure to catch the post script about garlic, the forgotten ingredient. Thanks to all.

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Washington, D.C.: Any fresh ideas of what I can make for my office Halloween party Monday? I've got great recipes for chocolate oatmeal cookies, banana bread, and cranberry bread, but I feel like I've made all that so many times. Do you smart folks have some fresh inspiration for me?

Judy H.: I might try the Nancy Baggett "chewy peanut-caramel bars" that we printed today in the Food Section. Our tester came back raving about it. Good cold, room temp, and can be frozen. Nancy's recipes are great.

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Egg question: Why is it that the organic, free-range, well-kept chicken eggs are always in styrofoam containers? I care equally about the environment & the animals and will gladly pay more for the better treatment of both, but I won't buy eggs in non-biodegradable containers.

Judith W.: A very good question. It's kind of a quandry. The paper cartons aren't perfect either because of the tree problem. I like the approach of some farmers markets that sell eggs in paper cartons but encourage buyers to bring back for refills.

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Chevy Chase, Md.: The wine article today was really strange to be printed in the wine section. Maybe it should have been in the style or book section. Why didn't you you feature a Virginia winemaker who is producing wine we can actually buy and taste?

Judy H.: We will feature lots of wines you can buy and taste, and in fact included several today in Ben's Wines of the Week. The Faulkner/Summers grapes were sold to a variety of vintners this year. She hopes to bottle her own wine in the future, but it is an expensive proposition. We thought people might be interested in this never-told story, or at least never-told as far as we know.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Chowder recipe: Yes, regular corn - cord would be too stringy.

Judy H.: Probably everybody would figure that out, but there is the occasional VERY literal reader. Thanks.

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