Hiking options in the Caribbean, places to see in Kauai, offbeat Las Vegas stops and more
The Flight Crew
Washington Post Travel Section
Monday, October 24, 2005
2:00 PM
The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.
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Anne McDonough: We're all here this week: K.C. Summers, John Deiner, Gary Lee, Carol Sottili, Andrea Sachs, Cindy Loose, Steve Hendrix and (for the first time, so bear with me) your captain, Anne McDonough.
Checking out the Foreign Service book sale this past weekend made me think about all of the stuff I'm glad I picked up while traveling, but also about the Things That Got Away. I wouldn't trade the cheapo rings and heavy rugs I've picked up for anything, but I'm still bummed about the housewares in Vietnam that I didn't buy; every time I think about the lampshades, the plates, the gorgeous wooden chests of drawers I saw and stupidly passed up, a little part of my homemaking soul dies. Andrea still thinks about the Steiff stuffed buffalo she should have bought from a wrinkled old East Berliner the weekend the Wall went down. Steve's glad he lugged home the colonial chest from Antigua that has taken center stage in his living room for the past six years.
How about you? What's the best thing you've ever picked up on your travels, or the a-prize-at-any price item you somehow let slip from your fingers? The poster with the best (short!) story wins a pair of logo-emblazoned slippers and a lovely little bottle filled with sea glass from our pile o' junk.
And now for your questions and musings on all things Travel...
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Laurel, Md.: On a recent 10-day city-hopping trip, I stayed in four hotels. Every one of them had small signs on their side tables explaining how they prefer not to wash sheets and towels every day out of their "concern for the environment." Of course, doing less laundry just so happens to save them money.
Can you tell me some common hotel environmental practices that COST them money? If a given hotel does those things also, I'll happily participate in their laundry-reduction program. But if they're only concerned to the extent that it saves (or makes) them money, I'm not going to do their environmentalism for them.
Anne McDonough: That seems to be a little bit of cutting off your nose to spite your face--sure, it saves them money, but it also DOES help the environment, you still have the option of requesting a daily towel/sheet change if you really need it (though come on, how often do you change your sheets at home? Don't think it's every day), and ya know what, some of those savings may (not necessarily, but may) be passed along to the customer.
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Washington DC: My husband and I are considering a Carribean vacation next spring, so we enjoyed the articles very much (especially the non-stop options available, since my husband has a fear of flying and he hates transfering planes or, even worse, having to get on a little plane).
As far as the destinations you mentioned in that article are concerned, which of those locations would be best for more than just laying on the beach? We enjoy taking small hikes and exploring local history, as well as water sports.
Gary Lee: Thanks for the compliment. Although all of the islands we mention have hiking options and historical venues, the three that would probably most fit your interests (in no particular order) are:
1) Barbados
2) Tobago
3) Puerto Rico
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Washington, DC: Hi there-
For the second year in a row we are heading to Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada for a week of skiing in February. Last year, flights were only about $400 r/t (inc. taxes/fees). But so far I haven't seen any for under $600. I am tempted to buy a ticket with American or Air Canada, who will provide you a 1-year voucher if you cancel the flight in advance, so that if there is a sale, I can get a flight with a lower price. But neither of those is my preferred airline (especially since AA has me on their 'pat down' SSSS list).
February in Banff is not really peak travel from what I've heard, and there are sale prices right now that extend into January for under $400. Does anyone have a clue whether prices are likely to drop? How far in advance do airlines start sales, or will they only do so if it gets closer and the flights are still pretty empty? Is there a consistency with this year's price increases based on last year's?
Any insight or advice would be much appreciated from the post staff or readers. Thank you!
-Allison
Carol Sottili: That does sound high for Banff in February. I'd hold tight for a few more weeks and keep looking for a sale. There's no real consistency to sale announcements - you just need to keep looking. Sign up for Orbitz's deal detector and Travelocity's low fare alert.
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Confusedville: Hi guys,
I love your chats and I'm a religious reader of your travel section, but I also check out the ... ahem, other paper of record. This weekend you both had similar stories. The New York Times wrote abou St. John and a few other islands, and also had an interactive map of the Caribbean on their website. You had the (far better) articles about the U.S. Virgin Islands. I noticed that this happens at least once a month. Some double-duty articles, such as ski-related stories in the winter and off-shoulder cruise stories in the fall, make sense. But are there other explanations? Do you have a mole in your midst? -Curious reader
KC Summers: Hi, C'ville, and thanks for the kind words about our stories. We've gotten this question before -- this kind of thing does happen from time to time, and it's not a plot. (I don't think!) I think it's just that fall and spring are traditional times for planning trips to the islands, although the traditional seasons are blurring these days. Anyway, we've always tended to publish our two Caribbean issues in October and February. Ditto our two cruise issues. I think the O.P. must have the same planning calendar.
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Frederick, Md.: A slight gripe...I always notice how travel writers are always griping about cruise ship passengers. Another one appeared in the latest article about St. John. I have been to St. Thomas/St. John both as a 'cruiser' and staying on the island for a week in Bluebeard's Castle. I enjoyed both roles. I am not sure how many travel writers are cruisers, but it seems a little highbrow to me. Most of these highbrowers were (and are) cruisers.
Cindy Loose: I didn't write the particular story to which you refer, but feel confident that any perceived griping about cruise passengers doesn't have anything to do with individual cruise passengers---we've been individual cruise passengers ourselves and hope to be again in the future. The issue is that it's in the nature of cruises to disgorge a lot of people at once. So it's the numbers of cruise passengers that we realize travelers might want to avoid, and has nothing to do with the character or attractiveness of any one individual.
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Washington, D.C.: I saw an ad this weekend for the QANTAS Aussie Air Pass deal for $999 (flights to/from L.A. plus three flights within Australia) and would just like to say to everyone -- GO!!! It's a terrific deal. We booked the last time they advertised it and have just gotten back. We had the most amazing time. Beautiful natural scenery, vibrant cities, friendly people, excellent food/wine/beer. Don't let the thought of the 15 hour flight in coach from L.A. scare you off! (It wasn't so bad, especially since QANTAS is an actual -profitable- airline that gives you real food and real service, even on the domestic flights.) So go, go, go, go, go!!
Anne McDonough: Well that's an endorsement for you.
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Ashburn, Va.: Submitting this question early since I can't make the live chat. I have a question about an upcoming international flight. I purchased my ticket via Orbitz, and a few days after receiving my paper ticket Orbitz e-mailed me to advise that one of the flights had changed. The e-mail seemed to indicate that I need do nothing if the new flight was satisfactory; just to be sure I called Orbitz and the representative told me that I would have to get my ticket changed and go to a ticket counter for the particular airline. I also ran this by a friend who used to work for a major airline, and she said that I didn't have to do anything. I'm so confused! I'm not a savvy traveler to begin with.
I don't want any surprises when I check in for my flight! Can you advise me on general procedures for a situation like this?
Carol Sottili: Did the number of the flight change, or just the flight time? If it's just an adjustment to the time, I don't believe you need to get it reissued, but if they changed your flight, you may have to get a new paper ticket. Call the airline to make sure!
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Hong Kong redux: To the person who posted last week about Hong Kong at Christmas time -- we lived in HK for four years, and December was our favourite time of year. The weather is generally at its best, 60's to 70's, sunny and dry. The colder rains don't usually start til Chinese New Year (Jan/Feb). It can be a bit smoggier, as pollution comes down from China, but it otherwise is very pleasant out to go sightseeing, shopping, or just sitting by the pool watching the kids play while you relax.
Things you must do: take the Star Ferry both ways. It is the cheapest ride in town and gives a beautiful view of the harbour and skyline. Go again at night to see the festive holiday lights, especially HK side (so riding from Kowloon to Central). Or you can walk along the promenade near the Cultural Center (near the Star Ferry terminal) on Kowloon side to take in the view. It's a quick walk then to the Peninsula Hotel for a drink to enjoy their Xmas decorations in the Palm Court/lobby. Take the Peak Tram up to the Peak. Sit on the right hand side going up (left going down) to get the better view. On a nice day or evening, eat at Cafe Deco and ask for a window table to enjoy the view over Central, the Harbour and Kowloon. A final 'thrill' ride -- sit upstairs in the front of a double decker bus to Stanley Market (bus 6 or 6A). The views can be great, and you will whiz by rock walls going out and cliff drop offs coming back on windy roads.
For fun shopping, try Stanley Market, the Lanes, and then take the longest outdoor escalator up to the antiques shops of Hollywood Road on Hong Kong side. On Kowloon side, wander around Fa Yuen Street, the Bird Market, the Jade Market and Sham Shui Po. Just ask your concierge to mark these on a map -- they are easy to get to using mass transit. Try to go on a weekday, as weekends can be overwhelmingly crowded. Smile, bargain hard, and have fun!
This is also a great time of year for hiking as it isn't too hot, too wet, or too snakey. Try the Dragon's Back (a relatively short and easy hike) out near Shek O which has a great place to stop for lunch or the Hong Kong Trail, both HK side. If you are feeling more adventurous, try part of the Maclehose Trail near Sai Kung (Kowloon side, fabulous views, more strenuous hiking).
We loved it there and miss it as you can tell. But now we're having fun living in and exploring Europe. Any suggestions for safe, but interesting places in Africa to take kids ages 10 and 12? We just went to Cairo and had a great time. Morocco? Libya?
Thanks!
Andrea Sachs: Great Hong Kong info. Thanks for the recommendations.
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Washington, DC: Great Caribbean guide this weekend! It is great to know what islands you can get direct flights to. Of the islands, which would be the best bet for somewhere with great beaches, not too crowded, some history that isn't too awfully expensive? We've been to Barbados while it was nice, we wouldn't go back. There wasn't much to see inland and it was expensive - almost $40 for one large pizza! Does such an island exist? Thanks!
Gary Lee: Tobago would seem to fit your bill. As a homeowner there, I may be biased. But it's got a wide assortment of nice beaches, great nature trails and some historical venues. Plus eating out and lodging are VERY affordable.
It is a small island but there's easily a week's worth of things to do.
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Anne McDonough: This is a followup from a few chats ago about restaurants on Kauai:
I wasn't on the chat earlier, but we were in Kauai for six days back in August and would highly recommend the following:
The Beach House on Poipu Beach (go in time for sunset); La Cascata in the Princeville Resort (again, sunset over Hanelei Bay), pricey but very very nice; Gaylord's in the Kilohana Plantation near Lihue (one of the best priced wine lists in the islands); Dukes (in the Marriott Hotel in Lihue).
Steve Sher
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Washington, DC: Hi,
I will be vacationing in the Dominican Republic next month. My question is what am I allowed (or not) to bring back with me? I am thinking along the lines of some Dominican cigars and rum, but am not sure if this is allowed or not. Any other tips or suggestions for things to purchase while there that I cannot get in the US? Thanks
Cindy Loose: Bring back rum and cigars! The only place in the world you're not allowed to buy and bring home rum and cigars Cuba, which of course would be the best place to buy both.
The rule is that a traveler may bring into the U.S. upt to $800 worth of stuff without duty. The feds don't put any quanity restrictions on hard liquor, as long as it is't so much that they suspect you're importing it for sale. However, some states do set a limit--to be sure you have to check with the state where you'll first be landing upon returning home. But, it's safe to say that no matter where you land, no one is going to complain if you have four bottles per person.
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Washington, D.C. - Downtown: Hello and thank you for taking my question, have you or any of the chatters ever skiied at Lech Austria? It is near the German-Austrian border. I'm looking for any tips, advice, etc. Thank you very much!
Carol Sottili: I haven't skied there, but I spend an afternoon at Sugarbowl in California skiing with a guy from Lech. He couldn't stop telling me how much nicer Lech was than any skiing in California. He described the place as having much more personality than the usual U.S. resort. People ski from hut to hut, where they can down a schnaps, listen to some music, sit before the fire, eat some homemade schnitzel, etc. Sounded very nice.
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Richmond, Va.: Any advice on flying into the airport in Seoul South Korea? Advice on ground transportation? Or visiting Seoul in general?
Thanks!
Anne McDonough: Steve reminds you to keep you seatbelt buckled until the plane comes to a complete stop. That's about all the advice we have on visiting Seoul, I'm afraid. For that, we're going to look to the posters. Guys?
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Former DC-er: Can you please tell me if one needs a passport at all traveling to the US Virgin Islands or Puerto Rico?
KC Summers: Right now, technically you don't, since they're part of the U.S. But two things to keep in mind. First, the law is changing and everyone will need a passport to travel to and from the Caribbean by the end of 2006. Second, if you travel by ferry between St. Thomas and St. John (both in the USVI), they're going to ask you for your passport -- I guess to prevent non-U.S. residents from climbing aboard.
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Washington, D.C.: As one who lived in St. Croix in the early 1980's and who currently supervises The Ocean Conservancy's (TOC) US Virgin Islands Field Office, I enjoyed your coverage of this "Special Place" in yesterday's paper. Recently TOC and others worked successfully with the USVI Government to designate the East End Marine Park on St. Croix. This area will help protect some of the island's best beaches, coral reefs, and other natural features. Did your writers visit this special place including beautiful Jack's and Isaac's bays?
Cindy Loose: Sorry to say I didn't make such a visit, but thanks for telling us about it.
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Heartbreak City: I lost out on a lovely Lomonsov tea set that I coveted at the factory store. My boyfriend of five years and I were in Russia for his best friend's wedding in Moscow and made a side trip to St. Petersburg. My bf told me not to purchase the tea set because his best friend wanted to give it to us as a wedding gift (we were planning on getting engaged within the year). Well, six months later, he dumped me ... over the phone. Now I am single and very thankful things worked out the way they did, but I will never get over losing that tea set!
Anne McDonough: Sounds like you need to get yourself back to St. Petersburg. Though carrying it home might have been tricky.
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offbeat Las Vegas: heading to Vegas soon! we have our "annual family trip" the week before Xmas (well, second annual this year). 4 days of fun.
last year we went to Valley of Fire one day. We may fly the Grand Canyon this time.
but for the time in Vegas - anything offbeat to check out? we've seen most of the hotels inside, the shops are fabulous, gambling is fun, yada yada. trying to come up with something "only in Vegas" (that is also legal and not raunchy).
thanks!
John Deiner: Not raunchy?
Next question!
No, not true. There's actually a lot of stuff to see that's offbeat in Vegas, not counting the other tourists. My vote for one of the wackier things to do is to visit the Atomic Testing Museum. It used to be in a little hole in the wall, but earlier this year a new museum opened that examines the whole nuclear-bomb-testing program, which occurred miles outside of Vegas. Check out www.ntshf.org/atomictestingmuseum.
Lots of weird, free museums in town, too, including Ron Lee's World of Clowns, where you can see people behind glass painting creepy little clown statues; and Vitamin World, where vitamins are made. The Neon Museum in downtown Vegas is where old neon signs go to die; the signs are scattered around the area on a walking tour and it's free. If you want to visit the "boneyard," where bigger signs are and (I think) is where the latest Killers video was filmed, you have to call and make arrangements. Check out www.vegas.com for info on all of this stuff.
And don't discount downtown Vegas...too many people skip over it in favor of the Strip, but it's more offbeat, cheaper, more fun and scads easier to do on foot.
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Arlington, Va.: I am considering a solo trip to Thailand but admit I am a little apprehensive due to the language and alphabet issue. I have traveled a good bit in western Europe where communication is generally pretty easy and I know enough German to figure things out. Does it make sense to plan my trip using a guide service or is it really not so hard to get around knowing nothing of the local language? I found this company called Utopia Tours online that sounds very good and they have English speaking private one on one guides to show you around. It's not cheap but seems like it might be worth spending a little more money for such a service. When is the "best" time to go there?
Steve Hendrix: If you're going on one of the standard Thai tourist itineraries (Bangkok, Changmai, Phuket, etc), you'll be fine. Where the tourists go, there are enough bilingual folks to make it work. Even in secondary cities, you can piece things together by getting your helpful hotel guy to tell the taxi driver where to go, etc. It's only if you're going far afield of the gringo trail that you'll have to polish up your hardcore pantomime skills. (Remember, in Thailand, clutching your throat and sticking your tongue out doesn't mean you're chocking--it means thank you.)
Really, not to worry. Thailand knows how to take care of its visitors.
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McLean, Va: What Caribbean island/hotel is a good value for families with young children? We have three children, ages 3, 6 and 9. A week-long vacation that costs much more (but preferably less) than $5,000 is not in the cards.
Gary Lee: You might check out St. John (you can camp out at Maho Bay and save lots on lodging.) I was recently in Curacao and found the island very child friendly. I'd recommend the Marriott there. Thirdly, look at Puerto Rico. San Juan is probably too urban for a family but across the island there are lots of paradores, small inexpensive lodges that would be suitable for families. Check out the Ponce area.
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Alexandria, Va.: We're headed to St. John in early December for our 10th anniversary, staying at the Westin. Have heard not-so-nice things about the property, though... after we booked it, of course. Do you have any info?
Also, will the temps be warm enough to hit the beaches?
Thanks!
KC Summers: Actually I heard great things about the Westin, I just couldn't afford it! I picked the Gallows Point resort (there are just three biggish resorts to choose from, Caneel Bay being the other one) because it was the cheapest of the three and, in my view, just as nice. Well, maybe not as nice of a beach. But the thing about St. John is that you're going to drive all over the island sampling all the cool snorkeling spots and beaches, so all that really matters is that your room is nice. And my room at G.P. was awesome. And I liked that it was right in the town, so no cab rides necessary to hit the restaurants and shops.
And it should be plenty warm enough to swim in December. Enjoy!
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Fredericksburg, Va.: We are making our nnual trip to Europe for the Christmas markets. This go round it will be Rothenburg oDT in Germany and Salzburg Austria.Any tips on accommodations in Salzburg?
Anne McDonough: Salzburg accommodations--who's got a favorite place they want to share?
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Bowie, Md.: Gotta-have.....when daughter was 5 months old, I was in Brazil on business. Purchased loads of amazing jewelery but the ONE piece that blew me away, a gotta-have was a beautiful emerald ring. (actually two of them, the wife has one) but this other identical piece has been sitting in the safe deposit box for when my daughter graduates from college in two years. It's THAT special.....
Anne McDonough: Now THAT is a gift with a story behind it. Here's to hoping she's not reading the chat and finding out about her gift too early!
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St. Paul, Minn: Hi - I booked a family vacation to a resort just south of Cancun over Christmas (December 21-28). Should I reconsider my destination? Or?Thanks.
Carol Sottili: It's still kind of early to make that sort of decision. A good friend who is traveling to Cancun in January said her travel agent is recommending that anyone who is scheduled to go before end of the year rethinks their plans. Associated Press reports:
On Cancun's elite hotel strip, white-sand beaches have washed away in some places and high-rise resorts could take weeks, if not months, to repair. Fox said Monday it would take two months to restore "80 to 90 percent of the touristic capacity of Cancun."
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Arlington, Va.: Last chat someone asked about hotels in Florence and Venice. I'd suggest trying www.Venere.net. This website is great because they have extensive traveller reviews... we had great luck booking hotels through there for our April '05 trip to Venice and Florence through them. I can't remember the hotels we stayed at offhand, but I do know that the reader reviews were right on the mark, and some of the cheapest rates we found. Also, they were reliable (the rooms/rates we booked turned out to be exactly what we received once we got to the hotels). They have hotel options for most of Europe, too.
Anne McDonough: Great, thanks for the tip!
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Timonium, Md.: Hi Flight Crew:This is a question for Cindy based upon her July 10, 2005 story on Buenos Aires. Having spent 11 hours flying to Argentina, did you feel that 7 days were adequate to see everything of importance in and around the city? Would you advise against renting a car for a side trip to the estancias? To which of the three estancias would you return, given a choice? We hope to visit in September and use some of recommendations for our itinerary.
Thanks,Sam
Cindy Loose: I was sorry I couldn't go jetting off to Iquazu Falls and Patagonia and other distant parts of Argentina, but I felt as if I got a very good feel for B.A., with enough time to fit in one overnight at an estancia, on a 7-day package. For one thing, you don't miss the whole first day and parts of the second with jetlag, cause you're in the same time zone. (This assume you get some sleep on the plane overnight, though.) Also, you have a good chunk of time on the day you depart. You've got a hard choice, though--the best time to go to the estancias is over the weekend, cause that's usually when they have entertainment, other guests to interact with, etc. But Sunday is also the day of the San Telmo market, which I think is a trip highlight. Check with the estancia--maybe you could stay on a Friday night, catch some Sat. entertainment, and go back to the city Sat. late afternoon so you could catch the market.
La Portena is a bit fancier than La Bamba, but I really liked both the owner and the manager at La Bamba, and they have the great food. (I was in search of the best empanadas, and found them at La Bamba.) Honestly I think all three I recommended are good. You could decide based on whether or not one or the other plans to have entertainment the day you are there, since the shows are really quite fun.
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Gaithersburg, Md.: Best thing ever purchased on a trip? A fine Swiss watch from Bucherer in Lucerne. For any watch fanatic, going to the source was truly like going to heaven...and the price was good at the time as well. Rolexes were flying out the door like ice cream cones on a hot summer day.
Anne McDonough: Did you stock up on gifts or keep the source to yourself?
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Washington, DC: Going to St. John for the first time this winter. How safe are the secluded beaches? Is there crime on the lonesome roads, do we need to be observant while on the out-of-the-way beaches?
KC Summers: Good question, Wash, since crime goes along with growth, and the island is definitely growing. A couple of the guidebooks I was using warned about parking rental cars in secluded beach parking lots, which kind of freaked me out. But I never felt scared or worried at any time, day or night -- and we drove all over the island, including the remote east end,and went to some very secluded spots. It's just a very laid-back, safe-feeling island. This is as opposed to St. Thomas, where crime is a much bigger problem.
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Chevy Chase, Md.: Crew:
I have a domestic flight that leaves at 7am from Dulles on Nov. 10. What is the best way to get there in time? Cab/Drive and park/Blue van? And what time should I leave my home (or be picked up) to get there at 6am?
Thanks
Carol Sottili: I'd get there closer to 5:30 a.m. than 6 a.m. My husband and I have been to Dulles twice in the last couple of weeks. On a Friday morning (Columbus Day weekend), it too about two hours to check in and get through security. On Tuesday of the next week, it took about 15 minutes. So, go figure. As for best way to get there, drive and park in the economy lot. I'd leave my house at 4:45 a.m. or so.
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Washington DC: I left Russia without a beautiful lacquer box I had wanted, but only because I didn't have any money. Not that I couldn't have afforded it - it was only about $30 - but I literally didn't have the money. This was in 1992, and it was still an all-cash economy. The only way to get cash in Russia was to bring it in or to cash traveler checks at the American Express office in Washington. My friend and I arrived in Helsinki (a short boat ride from Tallin, Estonia) with about $10, so on net I'm glad I didn't buy the box, since I wouldn't have had enough money to get a boat ticket out!
Anne McDonough: Sounds like you made the prudent decision. Here's to carrying extra bits of cash hidden throughout your luggage so the next souvenir doesn't slip away from you.
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Arlington, Va.: You mentioned the items that did and din't get away from your travels (chests, lamps, etc.). I never thought of bringing items like those back with me to the states - mostly due to ignorance, b/c I didn't know how. Would you clue me in on tips to bring those international wares back home with you?
Steve Hendrix: This is one of my favorite self-imposed challenges, bringing back overly ambitious, outsized things from foreign countries. I'm long over the allure of most sovienier tchotckies, but I had to have that 9 x 12 rug for $100 in Mongolia. And the antique colonial chest from Antigua. And the huge case of ceramic tiles from Puebla, Mexico.
There's no trick involved, other than careful packing and a certain sweet-talking assertiveness at the check-in counter. I got the chest back by having the shop keeper brace its legs with wooden braces and wrap it up in plastic--he was glad to do it to make the sale. Same with the giant rug. All I had to do was ask, and rug dealer wresteled the thing into a relatively un-huge bundle with twine handles and everything.
Sure, the pain-in-the-luggage-rack factor is high, but for such durable household items--which will last so much longer than just another snowglobe--who cares?
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Burke, Va.: I regret that I didn't pick up more Venetian glass while in Venice. We were backpacking with limited space and I couldn't afford to send it home. So I bought one piece of blue glass for my boyfriend (now husband) and that's it. Meanwhile, I've started a glass collection and it's sorely lacking anything Venetian.
Anne McDonough: Perhaps an anniversary will bring you back there to complete your collection?
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Bethesda, Md.: Hey Crew!
After seeing the PBS special about Canyon lodges my husband and I would like to take a trip to the Grand Canyon for Christmas next year. The show mentioned Madrigal dinners at the El Tovar Lodge. Where can I find more information about these special dinners and book tickets?
We're considering 4 days at the Canyon and 3 days at a spa. Does that time sound right? Can you recommend any mid-priced spas in area?
John Deiner: Hey, Beth. I just called the El Tovar and they told me they weren't aware of Madrigal dinners there. Hmmm. Darn PBS. Anyone else out there familiar with these things? I thought going straight to the source would be helpful, but, alas, no.
As far as your other plans...they sound great. Not too familiar with mid-priced spas (what's mid-priced, anyhow? seems like anything with the name "spa" on it is pretty costly), but maybe the clicksters could help with some suggestions in Flagstaff or Sedona.
Any help out there for Beth?
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Bethesda, Md.: Hello,
am hoping someone has comments/advice on this. I am thinking of taking spanish immersion classes in costa rica with CPI, a language immersion program in monteverde, heredia and flamingo beach. I was wondering if you or the peanuts know anything about this or have been to these regions? thanks!
Gary Lee: I have been to Monteverde but not the other locales. It was pretty and had some lovely nature preserves. But at least when I was there, it wasn't easy to find a corner that was not full of tourists from the US or Europe. You could do it but you'll have to work at it, especially if you want to learn Spanish.
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Washington, D.C.: I want to go to Rome in February, but all the fares I see are in the $600 range. That's what I paid two years ago for spring travel (when my dates were not flexible), so I thought I should be able to find much more attractive winter fares. Is fuel making that much difference in airfares now?
Carol Sottili: Fuel surcharges are very high right now - more than $100 to European destinations. So, even if the fare is just $350 round trip, once you add the taxes/fuel surcharges, you're up around $600. Sales may knock that down $50 or $75, but you're not going to get super bargains this winter.
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re Seoul: Don't try to drive yourself in Seoul. It's really difficult -- lots of crazy traffic and you MUST read a map and drive at the same time, as streets aren't really marked. As for things to do, the castle that's there is really cool, and if you go at the right time, there might be a changing of the guard ceremony. there's lots of cheap shopping, too, so either bring an empty suitcase or buy one there (that's what I did.) The Korean Folk Village, which is outside of Seoul, is worth the trip. I've also heard it's interesting to see the DMZ but we didn't have time for that.
Anne McDonough: Hear that, Seoul bound?
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Toronto bound: Any "must-do's" in Toronto? I'm heading there this weekend (for free no less, thanks to airline miles and hotel points).
KC Summers: Okay, here's my must-do's: Bata Shoe Museum, Hockey Hall of Fame (very cool even if you're not a puckhead), see a play (fantastic theater scene), wander around an ethnic neighborhood (great restaurants) and the harborfront.
How about the rest of you -- favorite Toronto things to do?
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Best thing I 'picked-up': The best thing I ever 'picked-up' on a trip, was a boyfriend. We met at the tail end of a weeklong trip to Dublin, and he became my family's personal tour guide for our last 2 days in Ireland. He and I were inseperable for those last 12 hours, staying up all night talking until I had to leave for the airport. We vowed to stay in touch and make it work - and we did - our relationship lasted four years.
Anne McDonough: Romance on the road...the ultimate souvenir!
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Del Ray, Va.: I was so happy to see that you included St. Croix in your USVI special Sunday. It's a really fabulous place that tends to get overlooked, as you noted.
Last week, someone asked Gary about the Inca Trail Trek. We did it in August, after reading about it on this chat (someone had written with a very helpful report.) We used the company Andean Life, and had a wonderful time. We were in good shape and didn't have any problems, but the chatter was asking whether it would be doable with knee problems. Our guide Carlos (who was fabulous) was battling knee problems, and was okay. But it may depend on just how bad your knees are, there are A LOT of steps. While the uphill climb at altitude tends to get the most attention, you also descend many thousands of feet on those Inca steps. My advice would be to talk to the tour company about any specific situations, Andean Life was very helpful in answering my emails before we went. But if at all possible, go. This was truly a once in a lifetime experience, I'm still wowed. Thanks again for pointing me to a great holiday.
Gary Lee: Thanks for your feedback. Another example of my philosphy that if you dance rather than sit it out, everything will work out...
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Suggested destinations?: Hi there --
I'm trying to make it through an overwhelming project at work by fantasizing about my next vacation, but I haven't come up with a destination. I prefer museums and cathedrals to beaches, and would love to spend a quiet week or so in a European city that's outside of BlackBerry range. I've traveled pretty extensively in western Europe, but have never been east of Vienna. Would Prague do the trick? Budapest?
Cindy Loose: Prague or Budapest would both be great choices, given your desires. I would lean towards Prague, but would check out packages or airfares, and price might help me decide. You save money on hotels and food and asundries in Eastern compared to Western Europe, but since there are fewer flights into Western Europe, airfares can sometimes more than eat up the difference. If you find that the case and it's drivig you crazy, one option would be to fly into Vienna then take a train to Budapest.
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Largo, Md.: Hi,
I always read your chats and the Sunday travel section because I love to travel and did quite frequently before developing a debilitating fear of flying 8 or so years ago. I finally got up the nerve to see a counselor about this and have my first appointment in a week. Please keep your fingers crossed that it works!
As this is such a common problem, I'm wondering if any of the other chatters know of good treatments or could share what has worked for them.
Carol Sottili: I wrote this for Travel Q&A last year. Can't swear it's all still current, but it's a start:
MySky is a 2 1/2-day seminar conducted in Minneapolis and Detroit by the former leaders of Northwest Airline's now-defunct therapy program WINGS. MySky's seminar, which runs Friday through Sunday, also includes a hanger tour and a short commercial flight. Cost is $695; the next Detroit session is scheduled for May 14-16. Info: 612-871-3355, www.myskyprogram.com.
SOAR (800-FEAR-FLY, www.fearofflying.com), founded in 1982, is run by a retired United Airlines captain who is also a licensed therapist. The complete program, with videos and a two-hour phone counseling session, is $390; individual components are $95.
There are also many self-help books, CDs and videos, which may be worth a try before you invest in a more expensive program. "Flying With Confidence" (888-U-WILL-FLY, www.flyingwithconfidence.com) is a $19.95 video that "explains modern airline flight in a calming way." Books include "Wings of Discovery" by Stacey L. Chance (Lumina Press, $13.95) and "Flying Without Fear" by Duane Brown (New Harbinger Publications, $14.95). Audiotapes include "Overcome the Fear of Flying" by Glenn Harold (Diviniti Publishing, $17.95) and "Fly Without Fear: Guided Mediations for a Relaxing Flight" (Soft Stone Publishing, $16.95).
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Washington, DC: This is probably akin to buying "designer" handbags on the streets of DC, but here goes. In Vietnam, especially cities like Saigon and Hanoi, there are workshops where the Vietnamese copy famous artworks from Van Gogh, Monet, etc. One day, I saw this huge (48x50 in maybe) beautiful painting of calla lilies (a friend's favorite flower)for the price of $50...grr...I still smart over not bringing it home as a homewarming or wedding present.
Anne McDonough: This is like that age old situation of reusing gift boxes, putting a Hecht's gift in a Nordstrom's box: If you had bought it and given it as a gift, would you have told the recipient it was a (beautifully done) fake, or would you leave it up to them to figure out that you hadn't spent upwards of a zillion dollars on them?
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Vacation Help: I am looking for a different vacation for my family this year. We have done the beach house thing for the last 10 years and I am looking for something different. I have two children who will be 5 and 8 so they would be able to do a kids club somewhere. I was checking out cruises especially ones from Phil. or Baltimore, but it still seems that they will be more than $4500 for the four of us. Can you give me some suggestions for resorts to check out as well.
Thank you.
John Deiner: Hey, VH. Have you considered flying down to Lauderdale and picking up a cruise there? They can really be quite inexpensive, even with the additional cost of airfare (fares frequently go to $130 or so round trip from here to Fort Lauderdale, and even lower if you bag one at the right time). That sum you give ($4,500) seems outrageous. Lots of cruises leave from Lauderdale for far less than $1,100 per person.
As far as resorts...yikes. So many out there. If you want something different, maybe consider a resort near Williamsburgh, so you can mix up thrill rides, water rides and boring history stuff for the kids. Kingsmill in a beaut, though on the pricey side (there's golf, too, if you're a duffer).
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Ashburn, Va.: If you had only 3 or 4 nights to spare, would you pick a cruise in the caribbean or just find pick an island and go. And if you you chose an island (and all I am looking for is relaxation) taking travel time into account which one would you pick?
KC Summers: Me, I'd pick a specific island. I have a wish list of islands to check out or revisit -- like, right now, I'd head right for Puerto Rico and finish doing all the stuff I couldn't cram into my last trip. Taking travel time into account, I'd pick an island with a nonstop flight from D.C. (check out our handy story in yesterday's paper listing all the options) so as to maximize my time. St. Thomas is also high on my return list (so I could catch a ferry to St. John).
A cruise would be relaxing, no question, but with only three or four days you'll have to figure in travel time to get back and forth to Florida or wherever the cruise is leaving from. That can add up....
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stuff from trips: it would be too hard to narrow down the best, but I can say that most of my home decorative items are picked up while traveling, as well many clothes.
at home I'm not such a shopper, but put me on a plane and I go nuts! occasionally my entire outfit for the day, including jewelry and handbag, was bought overseas somewhere.
two cool things I brought back, free: on a trip to Dachau 12 yrs ago I reached down and took a pebble (still have it) and on a trip to Rome, in the forum, the guide bent over and picked up a few tiny stones in the mud that he said were handcut for murals - I have those at home now too. (he's a history prof, from Rome, so I figure he knew what he was doing. that's my story and you know the rest).
Anne McDonough: Useful souvenirs, like clothing, can really keep a trip with you for a long time.
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Deep Valley, USA: Toronto has fabulous used bookstores - don't miss them if you're any kind of reader.
KC Summers: Good tip, thanks D.V.
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Washington, DC: Hi! I am submitting early due to a meeting I will be in during your chat.
My boyfriend and I want to go to Eastern Europe or Paris during thanksgiving. Our number one destination is Prague followed by Berlin. Are there any deals that you know of for these places? We are looking to spend about $600 or so for a 3-4 day air/accomodations. Any advice? Should we try for a package or a cheap flight and then find a place to stay once we get there? Any advice on a strategy would be great.
Carol Sottili: It'll be difficult to get that kind of a deal this year with fuel surcharges so high. I'd price it out both ways. Try www.go-today.com for cheap package deals.
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Glover Park, Washington, D.C.: Wondering if crew or clicksters have been to Panama recently? Thinking about going in Feb this year, mostly for birds and other nature. Anyone tried a trip with Ancon Expeditions to the Darien?
Steve Hendrix: I've been to Panama, but it's been about 7 years (they had lots of birds and nature then, though). We'll through this out for more up-to-the minute intelligence, but her's one tip from me: Get out to Barro Colorado, the island that houses the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute. It's a neat day tour from Panama City to a patch of amazing, well-studied habitat full of howler monkeys and birds. Not to mention a glimpse of decades worth of wildlife biology field work. And it's a great way to get out into the canal, which it sits right in the middle of (the Lake Gaston part, more specifically). Watch the ships pass all day long as monkeys pelt you with nuts.
Now, anyone been to Panama LATELY?
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Dulles during a normal weekday: Hi
I've frequently had a 7 AM flight on Saturday mornings and got there at 6 AM no problem. it wasn't a holiday though.
For an upcoming trip, mid week, at 815 AM - if I get there an hour ahead of time (715 am), is that enough, or is that just enough later in the morning to change things? it's not a holiday.
Carol Sottili: I think it does get busier as the day goes on. But I don't think midweek, especially with no holiday in sight, is a problem. Saturdays are different than Fridays - fewer flights, shorter lines.
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Longmont, Colo.: When visiting St. John, don't forget one of the best ways to see the island: during a sail on a chartered sailboat. There are numerous sailboats available for hire. Just ask around in Cruz Bay or check the internet cafe for fliers. Great views, private snorkeling, and it's an easy and fun way to go to the BVI's for the afternoon. We went on Kalina out of Caneel Bay and had a super experience.
KC Summers: Great suggestion, Long. Wish I'd had time to do that -- I kept hearing great things about the British Virgin Islands.
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Baltimore, Md.: Best buy: Beautiful necklace of Murano glass, purchased in Venice. I get compliments every time I wear it and the beauty of the trip all comes back to me!
Ironically, I now check out local thrift and antique shops for travel purchases--I find fun things that are for/from locals. My fave is a pair of reproduction Staffordshire cats from a shop near Swansea, Wales.
Anne McDonough: CoOnsignment shops, thrift stores, grocery stores: I love picking up stuff that you know is there for the folks who live there and not massproduced with the tourist hordes mind.
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For Seoul Visitor: I wish I could go back to Seoul! Make sure you visit the Arts district Insadong. There is a long street full of very interesting stores and galleries of celadon ceramics and other unique and beautiful works of Korean artisans. Also I had one of the best meals I've ever had. Its at a vegetarian restaurant at the end of the main street and within walking distance of the Main Insadong train/bus station. I'm sorry I'm blanking on specifics but it is a smaller, non-descript looking place with a lit white sign saying Vegetarian Restaurant(not the glamourous Sachon that most tourists visit) but it is quaint and beautiful inside, the proprieters speak perfect English, and the chef's specialty is a huge spread of delicious vegan dishes topped off with glasses of hot quince cider. you can order some meat dishes but you'd sell yourself short. and the meal was like $10. Koreans were very very friendly and tried to be very helpful, even if the English was very limited.
Anne McDonough: More Seoul! Thank you!
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Anonymous: We've planned a trip in January to Buenos Aires and Antarctica. What reference materials would you suggest would help us prepare for our trip, especially to Antarctica, via Orient Lines?
Cindy Loose: For Buenos Aires I think you could find all you need just through the tourism bureaus for BA and Argentina: www.bue.gov.ar, www.turismo.gov.ar, order a packet at 212 603 0443. There are about four major areas of the city you'll find just about everything you want to see and do, and given they are continguous, I don't think you need to do a ton of planning ahead.
Antarctica is of course a different matter, and sorry, we don't know the place or how to plan for it. Suggestions?
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Re: clowns and pills: Caution on Ron Lee's World of Clowns in Vegas -- we tried to find it when we were there in May, and after much backtracking through strip mall hell, discovered that it had closed. A construction worker helping to demolish it told us that it was supposed to be reopening somewhere else, but he didn't know where.
Last week in the chat, someone mentioned some lovely-sounding headache pills from Australia and added that US Customs allows you to bring only 50 pills back. We are going to Australia early next year, so I looked up the specific Customs regulation, and it says "50 dosage units." Do you know -- if the dosage is 2 pills, does that mean we could bring back 100 pills?
John Deiner: Ah. Thanks for the warning on Ron Lee, though what you say is actually GOOD news, what with all those creepy clowns and such.
I'm reading that Customs ruling as 50 pills. That regulation goes on to say that you can bring in more provided you have a prescription, which would say what your dosage would be. Then again, I never did do too well in Government Regulations 101. Can anyone out there tell us for certain?
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Bethesda, Md.: Have a layover question. Will be travelling to Grand Cayman next week, with a stop in Atlanta. Flight arrives in Atlanta's North Terminal at 9:35, the other flight departs from the South Terminal for the Caymans at 10:16. 36 minutes. I believe we stand very little chance of making the flight. What do you think? Will they give us a secret pass to skip all the lines?
Carol Sottili: That's incredibly tight. Did the airline book that for you? If so, you may call them and see if they can switch things around. In my experience, it's every man/woman for him/herself - no secret passes. It's not lines you have to worry about - it's getting from point A to point B before they shut the doors.
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Cubicle, Arlington, Va.: Left behind: antique samovar in Minsk (definitely pre-1917) for $50. Thought it would be too hard to carry. This was right after Belarus became indepedent (squirrels on the currency), and my guide said it shouldn't be a problem to get out, "even with the new law on antiques".
Anne McDonough: Next time dump your suitcase and grab the souvenir!
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Woodstock, Va.: As for the question about where to stay in Salzburg, Austria, I highly recommend the "Kasererbrau Hotel", a quaint place in the old city within easy walking distance of virtually everything. It's not overly pricey, and room cost includes breakfast. The staff is friendly, very helpful, and you have access to spa facilities there.
Anne McDonough: Hope the Christmas market traveler's still there...
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Good travel buy: I lived in Taiwan for a few months and bought a somewhat large buddha statue to decorate my apartment. I wasn't going to lug it home but I had grown attached to it so I shipped it for 150 bucks (much more than I paid for it). Well, my friend saw it when I returned and made me get it appraised. Turns out it is almost 200 years old and worth big bucks! I'm so happy I shipped it back.
Anne McDonough: Wow. I hope it gets prime real estate in your place now!
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Arlington, Va.: Some friends and I snagged a $730 trip to London in mid-February (rt airfare and 5 nights in a hotel - yay priceline!), and we're starting our research. We know about all the usual sights, but wanted to research the unusual. Any suggested websites? I think it's the Chinese New Year when we're there, so maybe a source for events/etc. in London? Also, anyone know if the bombed tube stations are up and running again? The tube website doesn't mention anything, so I'm taking that as a good sign. Thanks, and keep up the good work!
Andrea Sachs: I am a big fan of Time Out London (www.timeout.com/london), since they list local events, hangouts, restaurants, etc. that you won't find in Frommers--like sing-along Rocky Horror, movie walks and the top 20 hotel bars. For the Chinese New Year, check with the London Chinatown Chinese Association (www.chinatownchinese.com); 2006 info is not up yet, but you can get a good idea of the events-to-come. The London Underground Web site has the latest on closings; it looks like everything is running okay, minus some escalator woes.
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Bowie, again.....: Nah,, I don't think she'd read this....no offense, but she's too busy taking her engineering classes at her college in Philly!! ( I hope).....but two quick questions about St. Thomas (wife and I have a 6 night trip there for her b'day in Jan)...any more restaurants you'd recommend? And rental cars are VERY expensive....still worth it for exploration purposes on the island? (and how was it driving on the left??!!)
KC Summers: Craig Stoltz, our crack St. Thomas reporter, says it's definitely worth it to rent a car, unless you plan to be totally resort-bound. But also consider taking cabs, which are relatively affordable if you're traveling alone or with one other person, because you're charged per person, not per ride. If you've got a passel of kids it's gonna cost you.
Sorry, no restaurant recommendations for St. Thomas. Anyone out there got tips for Bowie?
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Hong Kong: My husband and I spent Christmas in Hong Kong once, as part of an extended stay in Taiwan. Hong Kong is an awesome city, and great fun, but it was SO COLD when we were there, and we didn't have any hats, coats, scarves. Once we found said items, we had a much better time (the temp was in the low 40s) I can't imagine wanting to sit in a pool, so be prepared for weather extremes. It's really a fun trip, though!
Andrea Sachs: Thanks for the warning: Bring mittens.
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Hawaii: I am heading to Hawaii early next year. I am staying on Oahu. Are there any must see places on Oahu? Also, I would like to go to the big island to see the volcanos. Do you know how much the island to island airfare is running? Are there any island hooper ferries?
Steve Hendrix: Well, there's a beach on the south shore. Why something...Why Me Me? Why Kink Y? Waikiki! That's it. Other than that....
No, Oahu is a swell island, with Hawaii's greatest diversity of things to do by far (I've to Hawaii six or seven times, and can say that I've never done more than drive through Waikiki). I love the funky scene up at the North Shore (where surfers and dropouts hang at Haliakala and Sunset Beach; where you can glide from the old Air Force base or ride horses from a stable above the Food Lion and tour the pricey but beautiful garden at Waimaia Valley). Gary Lee and I both like the touristy but well-done Polynesian Cultural Center (lots o' hula). I LOVE the Honolulu Academy of Art downtown, which has great collections and an excellent diner.
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Washington, DC to New Yor, NY: Hi -- I really hope you can take my question. A girlfriend and I are planning one night in New York, but we've had some trouble finding an affordable place to stay. Any suggestions? We're going Nov. 11 and everything is either already booked or out of our price range, that is: $350 and up!
Thanks!
Cindy Loose: I had the same problem last month. The Sept.-Nov. period, and parts of Dec.--are the busiest months for New York, in part because that's the height of convention season. I actually gave up trying to find something reasonable last month, and was going to try again for early Dec. However, I'm posting a link for NYC hotels that are typically less expensive, although I'm not promising what prices they'll be charging during the Nov. 11 holiday weekend you seek. I'm actually thinking of checking out either B&Bs or chain motels on Staten Island, which would require some time getting the ferry to Manhattan, but it seems like better than missing the city altogether.
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Washington, DC: My Mom and I (57 and 30) are planning to go on vacation for about 10 days over Christmas and New Year, and don't actually celebrate Christmas. We don't ski, but do like to walk around. Do you have any pros/cons for the following destinations:Phoenix/Tuscon AZ area, Santa Fe, NM area, Merida, Mexico, Paris, Prague/Vienna? We're having a hard time narrowing it down.
Gary Lee: Hey, excellent list. To narrow it down well It would be good to know a bit more about you such as what kind of budget you have, what are your culinary tastes, etc. But on the informaton you gave, I would rank your options in the following order:
Paris
Prague (with Budapest and maybe Vienna)
Merida
Santa Fe/Taos
Phoenix/Tuscon
If you stick to the top of this list, you're almost certain to have a fabulous time.
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Washington DC: RE: Things to Do in Toronto...How can one miss going to the CN Tower?? You can stand on these 6" thick plexiglass panels and look 1000 feet straight down. On a clear day, you can see NY state across Lake Ontario.
KC Summers: Oh, I didn't recommend that because I'm not really a "sights" person, more a stroll-around-town-and-stop-in-weird-shoe-museums kinda person. But you're right, if you're into sweeping panoramic views, check out the CN Tower.
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washingtonpost.com: Checking in With NYC's Chain Gang , (July 17, 2005)
Cindy Loose: NYC's cheaper hotels.
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Alexandria, Va.: After having spent the last several holidays (and various other vacations) with extended family, my significant other and I are looking for a relaxing Christmas ALONE!
Any suggestions for somewhere within a 3-4 hour drive of (or a cheap flight from) the DC area where we could relax, maybe see some sights, and/or just enjoy quiet time in front of a fire? I've been thinking about NYC or the Outer Banks - totally different options, I know, but we're open to anything.
Any good websites to look at for holiday package deals?
Thank you!
John Deiner: Hey, Al. Christmas week in NYC is fun, but it won't be relaxing. Plus you'll spend a fortune. And you definitely won't be alone!
I love the Outer Banks idea myself (sure you could snag a nice house for dirt cheap that week), but did you consider someplace where you might actually see some snow? If so, maybe Deep Creek Lake would fit the bill. It's a really nice area, and once you get away from the ski area, very quiet. Check out www.visitdeepcreek.com for a guide.
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Ashburn, Va.: I love to travel. My parents for my 20th birthday sent me to see friends in Australia for a month as my gift. It was great and I can't wait to go back. Whenever I travel I always bring back gifts for my parents. Just something that they would be interested. My mother loves pottery and my dad collects hats. So when I saw and Acubra hat I bought it for my dad - Australian version of a Stetson and no my dad doesn't wear the hats.My mother received a huge pottery piece (a platter about 2 ft across) made by a local potter of Australian clay. Being my first trip traveling I didn't really give any thought to packing. Neither fit in my bags so I ended up carrying the the platter and wearing the hat. Everything arrived in one piece but I looked ridiculous. My flight was Canberra to Sydney to LA to Dulles. I travelled for about 24 hours with those things and to this day I can't stand to look at them. My parents loved them. My mother has the platter/plate hanging on the wall in her home and she points it out everytime people complement her on her pottery. When I went to Hawaii her pottery piece was much smaller.........I learned my lesson.
Anne McDonough: My mom likes to pick discraded furniture up off the street and repaint it. Once she sent me home from my cousin's Bar Mitzvah with a wicker chair, which I took on two greyhounds and Boston's T. Your hat and platter story makes me feel a little less foolish now. Thanks.
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Petworth, Washington, DC: What I brought home:After spending a year in Bolivia, I brought home a well used machete (via a container of loads of weavings and pottery). It gets loads of use hacking away brush and weeds. And it never fails to impress my neighbors both local and latino.
Anne McDonough: Good lord. I'd love to hear how you got it past security.
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Arlington, Va.: Toronto faves: I like the Royal Ontario Museum. Just wandering around the shops and restaurants of downtown and Queen Street West is interesting. If it's your first time in TO and you don't mind the tourist trap feeling the CN Tower is fun as long as it's a clear day. Casa Loma is a very interesting castle in the city. It's really one of my favorite cities. I am going back over Thanksgiving weekend to see a concert and bum around the city for a few days.
KC Summers: I love Toronto too -- a really fun, exciting and safe city. When my family visited, we were all struck by now *nice* the locals were. Weird.
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Toronto: Dine at one of the Richtree Market Restaurants (there's one right near the Hockey Hall of Fame, and a few others in the area). Very tasty! I wish they had one around here.
KC Summers: More Toronto tips. Thanks!
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Kendall Park, NJ: Hello! Can the story be about a friend? Once, on an escorted trip to Switzerland, I hung around with a boyfriend and girlfriend who were on the trip and who were about my age (mid-twenties). She told me that he was holding all of their money. (This was before credit cards became so widespread. None of us had a credit card.) I asked her if she really thought it was a good idea. She said yes. To make things clear, they did not live together. They even lived in different states. It was not that she was used to his handling her money for her.
She told me that during some free time, they went to an antique store, and she saw a painting that she wanted. She asked her boyfriend to give her the money to buy it. He refused to hand over the money, saying that the painting wasn't worth it. She said that she knew the painting was overpriced, but she really, really wanted it, and it was her money. He still refused to give her her own money, and they eventually left the store.
The next morning, the boyfriend had a change of heart, and he went back to the store to buy the painting. Unfortunately, the store was closed, and he couldn't wait for it to open, because we had to get on the bus and go to the next city on our itinerary.
The moral of this story is that you should hold onto your own money!
Carol Sottili: Many lessons to learn in this one.....
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Washington DC: 30 years ago, I travelled overland to India. While I didn't buy alot along the way, I did fill my backpack with a wonderful scarf from the amazing market square in communist Zagreb, an old gold-trimmed robe from the covered bazaar in Istanbul, and a wonderful Afghani robe I had bought in Herat, along with my journal that even included the rickety bus trip through the Khyber Pass.
During my 1 1/2 years roaming India, the backpack was lost. To this day, I get sad when I think about it, and the wonderful pieces of my journey that I never got back.
Andrea Sachs: Well, then you must go back--you owe it to your backpack!
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Washington DC: Some favorite finds ... a gorgeous ceramic vase of dark green celadon from Seoul ... a dainty, white and blue six peice tea set with bamboo handles from Tokyo ... and, form Salvador de Bahia the world's BADDEST three-inch thong stiletto sandles with a single huge sandstone between the toes to hold the shoes in place.
Carol Sottili: Those sandals sound positively dangerous.
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Downtown Washington, DC: I'll be in Spain in November for 9 days. I flying into and out of Barcelona. I'd like to visit at least one other city while I'm over there. Any suggestions? I'm leaning toward Madrid or Valencia.
Gary Lee: My own choice would be Madrid, especially if you like art (the Prado, etc rank among the top musuems in the world) and food. There are several excellent day trips out of Madrid, led by Toledo. But the city is more an aquired taste than a wow destination.
You might think about Sevilla, too. It's very accessible, pretty and has lots of sites worth visiting.
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Re: Environment: Here is how you are contributing to the environment by reusing your towel: Less detergents and chemicals are used for less laundry (and hotels use industrial level which is even stronger)which means less used water going back to the system. Less laundry means less electricity and less water, which means less usage of LIMITED NATURAL Resources.
The thing I regret not buying: In Thailand more silk, I shoudl have bought without even thinking what color I want, I could have made use of it here. Looking at Dupioni Silk curtains make me want to purchase a ticket, I am sure I'd save money (to the solo traveler going to Thailand - no need to worry, I traveled all over twice for 2 weeks, no problem at all). And in Istanbul, not having purchased a gold ring I liked, it was everywhere and I thought it was going to be the next thing everybody has - it has not reached here. It was only $80! BTW, I bought a gold Bulgari pendant for $50, and you can't tell the difference. Here is my question: where can I go for Christmas week in the US that is not a major holiday destination and is flocked with families, but still has some activity? I am not looking for anything major, walking around the city, good food, a museum or, two, compact and relatively safe. Kind of like DC, NY, Boston, Montreal?
Anne McDonough: Many you're hitting all the bases with this posting-thanks! How about Chicago--it's cold, certainly, but a wonderful destination that has everything you're looking for.
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Indianapolis, Ind.: When I was in Japan 10 yeard ago I flirted with buying a charming antique handpainted tabletop screen that was about $250. I had already spent so much money, and decided against it. I think about it sometimes now and just sigh.....
Anne McDonough: We're sighing with you, Indy.
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Washington DC: Going to Key West in early December. What is the one can't - miss restaurant for a romantic dinner that's not too outrageous on price (say $120 for two people)? Thanks!
Andrea Sachs: Some would say Louie's Backyard (though others would say not Louie's--they overcharge and overhype). However, it does have the lock on location. Another winner: Blue Heaven, if you don't mind a candlelit meal with chickens roaming beneath the tables.
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Rockville, Md.: My husband and I are looking for a travel deal during the week between Christmas and New Year's. Do you have any suggestions? We're open to anything!
Cindy Loose: Wow, that's a little too open. But first thought--deals are hard to find during that week, since it's such a popular time to travel. However, people tend not to want to travel Christmas Day, or return the day before New Year's, so searching airfares during that time slot might turn up something good as far as the airfare part goes.
If that doesn't turn up something that gets your heart pumping, I think next step is to think carefully about what you want to spend and what kind of experience you seek, then calla travel agent for advice.
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getting married in Montego Bay: Hello Travel crew,
i'm getting married at Half Moon Bay on December 4 and inbetween worries of a freak late hurricane and how much $$ this thing will cost, i'm wondering about what Island "must sees" to suggest to friends. I know about a lot of the touristy spots but am wondering about more geniune locations in or near Montego Bay.
Also - my best purchase on a travel was a wooden carved sculpture of the favelas in Rio with the jesus de cristo statue towering above it all. I had basically spent all my money getting to Brazil but went to the Ipanema Hippie Fair to people watch and look at all the beautiful jewelry. I was immediately drawn to the sculpture when the artist that made it came up to me and started talking and i realized he was blind! He told me about himself and his techniques and that was that. I spent $100 on it, lugged it around for three weeks from the Amazon to Bahia to the Pantanal when it fell on my head during a rough landing. I still have never regreted the purchase and it's usually the first thing any visitor mentions when they enter my house.
Gary Lee: Two places I'd put on that list are Margaritaville (there's always some kinda party there) and, at the other end of the spectrum, the Gallery of West Indian Art, located downtown. The latter has an excellent collection of Jamaican, Cuban and Haitian art at reasonable prices.
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Washington, DC: Favorite travel purchase: An antique Turkish rug, bought while backbacking in Istanbul when with student loan money. Result: happy memories brought back by the still-gorgeous rug, and also of the comically bad hostels (no heat, no hot water, while it snowed in the Cappadocian desert!) were I was forced to stay b/c I had spent all my money on the rug.
Question for you: Some early-30s, no kids (yet -- one preggers!) types are looking for a February getaway. I think we're talking about $1400 for flight plus hotels, for 6 days. To please the whole group, we need a mix of nice beaches, nice places to eat, good outdoorsy things to do, fun local culture to experience, nice place to stay, not too hard to get to. How can we please everyone? Maybe Puerto Rico, San Juan/Yunque/Vieques over a 6-day period? Or someplace else....? Thanks!
KC Summers: You've just answered your own question, Wash -- go to Puerto Rico! A bunch of us just came back and were just blown away by the diverse attractions. Yeah, we knew Old San Juan would be interesting and that the beaches would be nice, but we found so much more -- waterfall pools, amazing museums, tons of cultural attractions, fascinating history, good shopping, secluded beaches, laid-back towns.
Second choice: St. John. It's also easy to get to (even though there's no airport, it's easy to hop over on the ferry from neighboring St. Thomas), and it's got that combination of good restaurants and outdoor eco stuff that you crave. Not as interesting a local culture as Puerto Rico, though -- that's what I loved about P.R.
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Heredia!: I took languages classes in Heredia a few years ago and it was great! I stayed with a family and got up at about 6am, when they did. Took myself off on half day trips in the morning and then went to class in the afternoon. Heredia is very centrally located. Teachers in the language school encouraged me to speak spanish and taking local buses was also good for my spanish skills. (It can take several lines to find the right place to buy tickets or the right bus).
Gary Lee: Thanks for that tip.
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In-Season NYC Hotels: I have the same problem as the previous poster with trying to find affordable hotels in the Fall and early Winter in NYC. If you're heading from a nearby city on the eastern seaboard (like me, from Boston), just give Expedia, Hotwire and Priceline a shot about three days before you leave up to the morning of your trip and you'll almost always find something. I have stayed at 3-4-5 stars for around $160-200 per night with these last-minute deals. Individual hotels will also run these specials on their own websites; it helps if you're a frequent guest member or have a government discount too.
Cindy Loose: Thanks. That's a pretty nerve wracking way to go if you've booked a flight, but if you're driving, what the hey---you're not out anything if the sites don't turn up a room.
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Washington, DC: I am thinking about taking my five year old niece to Disney world sometime January - March and am trying to decide if I am crazy to even attempt this on my own. If I did this should I stay at the park? I also wanted to comment on the St. John article - if you really want to get away from the development on the island head over to Coral Bay.
Steve Hendrix: Thanks for the St. John tip, WDC.
As for Disney, you'll be fine on your own if you're generally checked out on five-year-olds (what, you were going to hire a couple of au pairs?). She'll be in extremis, sure, overstimulated, exhausted and berserk on ice cream. But since she won't be eligible or interested in the majority of rides (big roller coasters, creepy or historical animitronic robots), you can pace your day nicely with late starts and many breaks. Yes, staying on the grounds is always easier. You jump and off the many transportation systems and can bail out for naps without adding another hour of driving to your day.
And John Deiner, Disney Czar, suggests looking at the first couple of weeks after Christmas for good deals and small crowds.
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Centreville, Va.: Am headed to NYC for just two days next week. I have one day scheduled, but am wondering what to do the next. Will I have enough time to Ellis Island/Statue of Liberty and still make my flight out of Newark in the early evening?
Carol Sottili: You should be able to do the Ellis Island/Statue of Liberty trip and still have time left to grab a bite to eat, as long as you get up early and don't spend hours doing family research at Ellis Island. Ferry leaves from Battery Park in New York, or from Liberty State Park in N.J. Go to www.statueoflibertyferry.com.
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Australia - second the motion: My 2 cents on Australia - GO, GO, GO!!!! But go for at least 3 weeks, because (1) it's a BIG country and (2) the flight is really long.
Don't try to see too much. When we went (in 1999), we heeded this wise counsel and limited ourselves to 10 days on the Gold Coast and 5 days in Sydney, with lots of side trips in both places. The 3 domestic flights included in the $999 will help, but remember, Australia is as big as the U.S., if not maybe a little bigger, so you can easily wear yourself out spending 6 hours in each of 50 destinations.
You will love the scenery, the people, and the food and wine. The best seafood I have ever had was at the Pier Nine Restaurant in Brisbane.
Anne McDonough: I've not been but second the motion of spending as long a time as possible in as few places, to really enjoy yourself and get the most out of the trip.
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Arlington, Va.: Re: hotel in NYCI went there last month, and was surprised by the Red Roof Inn in Koreatown... we booked from the redroofinn.com website directly, and it was one of the cheapest rates we found for a saturday night stay - $120. It's a really good location, safe, walking distance to Broadway (if you bring comfy shoes), or a cheap cab ride to most touristy sites. The rooms were small (of course) but clean, and most importantly the shower had good water pressure and was relatively new!
Cindy Loose: Now we all know, so you can forget about ever finding a room there again. Seriously, thanks. I think Red Roof is among those listed on the story box I just posted.
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Calgary, Alberta: For the Banff traveller, Canadian universities "reading week" a.k.a. spring break is in february (rotating weeks depending on the university) so it is a busy time of the year.
Carol Sottili: Thanks.
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For NYC bound: Check out hotels in New Jersey, specifically Hoboken. I know there is one there that is right at the ferry port and it lands you on the west side of Manhattan.
Cindy Loose: You can also take a PATH train from Hoboken. If you take this option and someone asks you what you did that weekend, you are allowed to say you went to New York, you don't have to say you spent it in Hoboken.
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Washington D.C.: What's the closest Caribbean island to DC? I'd like to do a long weekend, so don't want to spend a lot of time in the air...
Thanks!!
Andrea Sachs: For islands: Bahamas, Turk and Caicos, Cuba. Then Dominican Republic and Jamaica.
However, distance is not so much the issue as nonstop flights that leave realllly early so you can be on the beach by noon.
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Washington DC: Hi Crew,
Great section yesterday! I especially loved the story about renting a National Trust cottage in Scotland. What a wonderful way to see a place.
My question - I'm thinking about doing a weekend trip to New Orleans for New Year's Eve; what's your feeling on how 'ready' the city will be by then? I see that some hotels are accepting reservations, and I'd love to support the rebuilding effort, but would hate to show up too early. I've seen on some New Orleans websites that they still haven't gotten all power/water/trash pickup etc back to speed. Thanks.
Steve Hendrix: My guess is that New Orleans will put on a huge effort this New Year's Eve. It will be the first really big party weekend after Katrina, it's still a few months away and businesses will be counting on, if not a return to normal, at least a spike in interest from good-hearted tourists like you. It'll make a nice dress rehearsal for their modified Marti Gras plans.
Hey, let's all go!
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Virginia: This Saturday I am off to Barbodos to start a week of exploring in the Caribbaen. After spending a night in Barbados I will meet up with a Windjammer cruise in Grenada. I was hoping that while in Barbados I could get a little duty free shopping in but I hear the shops close early on Saturday and are not open on Sunday? Is this true? Also do you have to go to Bridgetown to shop or are there also shopping opportunites in the tourist areas such as South Gap?
KC Summers: Lucky you, Va. Yes, there's great shopping elsewhere in Barbados, not just in Bridgetown. Re hours of operation, I checked with the Barbados tourism folks, who aren't sure but promised to call me back -- so if you want to email me later (summersk@washpost.com) I'll try to have the answer for you.
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Herndon, Va: Thanks for your stories on the US VI. My wife and I, with another couple, visited St. Croix last March and enjoyed it tremendously. Laid back, with great beaches, lovely drives in the hills, and as much shopping as you want. Don't miss the "back-road" restaurant (the name escapes me) with the beer-drinking pigs. And don't fret, to keep the pigs' health up, they only use non-alcoholic beer (the pigs don't seem to mind).
KC Summers: Thanks -- we'll have to check that one out next time!
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Anne McDonough: Thanks for the great stories...I've now got a hankering for Venetian glass, oversized hats and that elusive samovar from Minsk. But the winner this time is the backpacker who had it all...and lost it. Send your contact info to mcdonougha@washpost.com and we'll get those goodies right out to you. They won't make up for the Herat robe or the missing journal, but at least it's something. Thanks all, e'll catch up with all of you next Monday.
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