Home Sense

Have questions about how to keep your home fit and trim?

Home Sense columnist Mike McClintock is online every other Thursday at Noon ET to answer your questions about home building, remodeling, repairs and the wide range of home-consumer issues. If it has something to do with the place where you live -- from home security to the latest on appliances, energy-saving and a lot more -- just ask. Mike has the answers.

McClintock's column appears in washingtonpost.com's Home and Garden section .

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Ocean City, Md.: I have an outside door with a gate latch I want to replace. The problem is that the screws holding it on are completely rusted over so that I can't unscrew them. What can I do?

Mike McClintock: Hi- and sorry for the format screwup to start, and I'll get to your question after this:

So hello again: To answer some queries about how strange things seem to have become in the world of consumers- right, you bet it's strange, even stranger than it used to be, specially because of the loony language. Decades ago it started with things like a used car becoming a "previously owned" Lincoln Continental- more amusing and not really confusing or deceptive. Now ads promo conditions and features you can't ever seem to get because they're nullified one way or another by disclaimer doubletalk or tiny type. When language is so bollixed that one of the most common programs on all-sports TV stations is poker- do you need to do pushups first?- expect just about anything.

One of the more bizarre examples is Philip Morris. The company puts out very serious and concerned commercials about quitting smoking and how there's no such thing as a safe cigarette, etc., and from the ads you would think the company is utterly done with tobacco. But it's just another cost of doing business- saying not to smoke, sort of, while selling cigarettes like crazy. (The company website says Philip Morris USA is the largest tobacco company in the U.S. and has half of the U.S. cigarette market's retail share.)

So yes, it seems more and more like Orwell's Newspeak (although that system stressed government gobbledygook and had no word like "unadvertising), and strange bordering on surreal when a company tells you not to use the product they're selling all over the place for you to use. Is it one group of people anti-cigarette in one office and another pro-cigarette across the hall, shouting at each other in the hall, parking in each other's spots? Or maybe the anti-cigarette group is a corporate dog house for people who aren't pro-smoking enough; who knows. But enough of that, and a short quiz on housing up next while I'm scrolling through your emails.

HOME SENSE- HOUSING STATS -QUESTION

Your probably know about how much your home is worth, how old it is and more. But your frame of reference may be quite different than the national housing picture. Can you get the national numbers right?

1. How many owner-occupied homes are there in the U.S.?

- about 42,000,000

- about 72,000,000

- about 102,000,000

2. What is the average value of an owner-occupied home in the U.S.?

- about $85,000

- about $125,000

- about $165,000

3. What is the average age of owner-occupied units in the U.S.?

- about 10 years

- about 30 years

- about 50 years

4. What percent of all homes have central heating?

- about 75 percent

- about 85 percent

- about 95 percent

5. What percent of all homes have central airconditioning?

- about 55 percent

- about 75 percent

- about 95 percent

OK; so the rusted screws. First you could try cleaning and scraping the screws slots for a better purchase. Try something like WD-40- a few spritzes that can soak in. Then if the rrust is dense try a hacksaw blade across the screw slots to get ore purchase. And if all else fails you can cut under the screw heads with the blade, or drill them out.

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Alexandria, Va.: Mike -My smoke alarm seems to be mocking me. I was getting the single beep every couple of minutes, which usually means that the battery needs to be replaced. I did that and everything was fine for a day or so, but then the single beep happened again. I replaced the battery again and the same thing happened.

Is the alarm itself dead and in need of replacement?

Thanks!

Mike McClintock: Not quite dead but not working for sure. That slow beep is the warning that the battery is kaput, but in this case it's the unit, too. Often that happens outside baths (from shower steam) and around kitchens, of course.

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Courthouse, Va.: Does it make sense to put your thermostat on a timer if you have a heat pump? I hear conflicting opinions as to whether the savings realized by the daily setbacks will be cancelled out by the additional energy the heat pump expends trying to bring the house back up to the higher temperature.

Mike McClintock: You never lose heat with setbacks. Basically, the up and down is a wash (the losing and gaining back of heat) and the rest of the time you're at a lower setting saves energy and bucks- the longer the better. The good part is that you can tweak the system, overnight say, to come back up 15 minutes before the alarm goes off, so you don't feel deprived and chilly while saving.

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Philadelphia, Pa.: Mike-

While taking a shower this morning, the cold water stopped working (nearly scalding me with only hot water). The sink in the same bathroom had plenty of hot and cold water. What would cause the cold water to stop in one faucet and not the rest of the house?Is this something a reasonably handy DIY-er could fix, or should I call a plumber?Thanks!

Mike McClintock: Just a guess, but if you have a mixing valve-one lever- sometimes one of the plungers that controls the mix gets frozen, or the little rubber o-rings go. It's sort of mysterious (but definitely doable) taking one apart the first time, so maybe a plumber this round and watch what happens.

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Silver Spring, Md: Hello Mike, More fuel questions are coming your way. How cold can we let the whole house get in the winter? We are planning on using small heaters in the rooms we are in as much as possible but we don't want to do any damage to the pipes etc. in our old house. How low can we put the thermostat without risking damage? thanks, Barbara

Mike McClintock: You could in theory go to 33 degrees. But pipes aren't the only problem-= and you could fix that with heat cables if need be. The problem is that at 50-ish the house starts to go bad- like trim popping and moild growning and whio wants to be there at 50 degrees anyway.

The best bet is a major setback overnioght- like 68 to 55 or even below. For a few hours the low temp is fine. During the day you could do the same thing if you're nt there. But a steady diet of 50 and below leads to a lot of maintenance work.

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Alexandria, Va.: The article on heating today mentioned foam insulation for outlets. I figured this is great idea but was wondering if the foam is pre-fab and sold as such in home stores or do you need to do the forming yourself? Also, I cannot for the life of me find the plastic sheets you blow dry on to windows in the stores this year. I used it last year in my apt with horrible single pane windows that were so poorly insulated, there was ice on them and it worked GREAT. Was I just looking too early? (tried Target, home depot, lowes)

Mike McClintock: Heat-shrink plastic is everywhere I look- and yes, about the easist, cheapest way to make a house with single glazing much warmer and more comfy (it cuts drafts a lot, too).

The foam outlet strips are prefab- maybe next to the plastic- but anyway they do a reasonable job of cutting drafts at outlets and such where the boxes make holes in the wall insulation.

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Rockville, Md.: Love the helpful chats!!I just had my chimney cleaned in anticipation of regular fires during this already cold season. (It has been several years between cleanings.) The cleaner (who was professional and courteous) noted that there were minor leaks in the chimney brick, but that the problems were not serious. We have noticed occasional leakages when there is a serious rain. What sort of work goes into repairing or replacing broken/damaged bricks, on a large external brick chimney? The cleaner - who is also a licensed contractor - told us eventually an expensive repair would need to be performed. I was curious if you or anyone in the gallery have any experience with brick chimney repair or brick replacement. Thanks!

Mike McClintock: The guy is probably wanring you that a few joints are soft and need repointing. To do that you scrape out the crumbly mortar to a depth at least as wide as the joint, let it dry, then push in fresh mortar and trowel to fibnsh the seam like the surrounding seams. It's easy when there are a few spots, difficult and more expensive of course when there are many. Why not ask the guy to show you a sample of what he's talking about?

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Burke, Va.: Which is better to replace, windows or doors, in order to save more heat? Our doors leak more air but we have more windows in our townhouse. Don't think we have enough to cover both this year.

Mike McClintock: Often you can weatherstrip and/or caulk instead of replace, which can get very expensive. Maybe the windows first, caulkin outside and installing heat-shrink inside. Then you could replace the doors if necessary, or just add weatherstripping that interlocks.

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Arlington, Va.: My husband and I live in a cape cod built in 1939. We have an oil furnace with the oil tank in the basement. Currently the furnace is operating at about 70 - 75 percent efficiency. We were told you usually replace them when they get around this level. My question is should we replace it with another oil furnace with prices being high and our dependency on oil always increasing this isn't likely to change. Or should we install a gas furnace that is more energy efficient, but prices are also high at this time. We have a gas line to the house that fuels our stove and on demand water heater. My husband is also concerned with the logistics of removing the oil tank. We are really confused and it looks like the furnace will need to be replaced sooner than later.

Mike McClintock: Your question covers most of the basic concerns. First, 70 percent is way below a possible 90 or even 95 with a new gas furnace, which will save a lot. With a gas line already in the house you don't have the huge installation costs, but losing the oil tank can be aproblem if it was installed inside as the house was built; you need to price that as part of the puzzle. I would probably go gas. It burns cleaner, no delivery, higher efficiency rating on new furnbaces- and both fuel prioces can skyrocket so who knows on that account.

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Arlington, Va.: Hey Mike, quick question. My shower handle has a on-and-off type of trickle leak. The handle is one of those pull-out to turn on type of handles (left hot, right cold) built into the tile midway up the shower.

I took the handle off, and it appears there is a slow leak from the pipe that the handle goes into, it looks almost like a valve but built to go in and out.

Any suggestions on dealing with the leak?

Mike McClintock: Older micing valves can leak when their washers give way. Once you get the handle and trim off you can take the thing apart to replace them (after turning the cutoffs). Replacement usually involves a plumber and some tile work, too.

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Alexandria, Va.: I came home to my apartment from a long weekend away and discovered a major leak. My bedroom is destroyed -- the mattress and boxspring are saturated, the parquet tiles are floating on 1/2 inch of water, the walls (plaster, I think) are damp and paint is peeling from the cracking ceiling at an alarming rate. There is visible blackish-blue mold growing on the walls. The leaking has finally stopped when the rain stopped, and apparently the hole in the roof has been found and will be repaired.

We are sleeping in our living room until we figure this out -- we moved the furniture out of the bedroom and don't look in there unless we hear a crash.

We are worried that our landlords will just paint over the damp and call it a day. What do we need to do to make sure it gets repaired correctly and safely?

Mike McClintock: If they paint it won't last more than a few days over soaked walls. But in only a couple of days you should not have mountains of mold. More troublesome is that some building materials are soggy, or warping a nd need to be replaced. You should go over the room item by item- and ask about what happens in a month or so when the parquet starts popping due to the flood.

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Bzzz in the attic: Hi, now that we've had a few frosts, am I ok to go up to the attic and knock down the hornet's nest that I killed off earlier this summer in my eaves?

Mike McClintock: Sure- if you sprayed earlier. But it might be wise just to hit the thing with a bb gun or something from a distance, or at least spray once more before you lose their condo.

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Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: I am a renter in an older, ground floor apartment that is on an alley. The walls are cement and I have a tile floor covered with a large area rug. The heat is electric from a motel-style floor unit. It heats up quickly, but quickly becomes FREEZING again. What steps can I take with simple DIY improvements to make my little apartment more energy-efficient? I've heard something about a plastic wrap that sticks to windowpanes...?

Mike McClintock: Heat-shrink i think first appeared in the 1970s, and i've mentioned it in columns many times. Short take is: buy kits for about the sizes you have; stick double-faced tape to the frame; stick plastic to the tape; apply heat that unwrinkles the sheet and traps dead air. The more air you trap the better, as it's about R-.9 per inch. Compared to fiberglass insulation at 3.5 per inch it's not much, but way better than single glass.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Mike,

I rent an OLD corner rowhouse and have been given weatherproofing carte blanche from my landlord. I bought the right caulk and expanding foam and weatherstripping and plastic sheeting. My question is: How do I know where to caulk and foam? The way I understand it is: big holes and cracks outside for the foam, and visible indoor gaps between molding/windowsills and wall/floor for inside. Does that sound right?

Mike McClintock: Cauling is bascially outside. The expanding foam works in or out- on large cracks, sure. But if there's a cold spot you can drill a small hiole, use the extension tube, and shoot foam into the finished wall. It;s also good around pipes and other perforations in the building wall.

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Detroit, Mich.: In the winter, the heating ducts in my basement sometimes make loud banging noises. I'm guessing that the noise is caused by the ducts expanding as they warm up. Is that corect? And is there anything I can do to prevent this, or to muffle the noise?

Mike McClintock: You got it. Why not hang out there when they start noisemaking and see where the scraping and screeching is. You might need to tighten some hangers, or maybe wrap some sections with insulation if they are scraping against joists.

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Arlington, Va: I am a first-time homeowner who wants to put in new countertops (replace laminate with silestone or corian) and replace 2+ layers of kitchen linoleum floor with ceramic tile. Is there an order that these should be done in? And should I find a counter guy and a tile guy separately, or find a contractor who will do both? Thanks!

Mike McClintock: You could be your own GC either way, hiring two or one. But in any case you want to do the dirty work first: get rid of the old floor, maybe fix somew spots, put down new underlayment, then the new floor. Then cover that temporarily for the finishing work on the counters.

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Washington DC: A few months ago, I noticed a leak from a bathtub into the kitchen ceiling below when draining the tub. Fortunately, we were already planning to have the tub replaced, and the plumber said there was a 99 percent chance the problem would be fixed afterwards. It seemed to work fine, but during the heavy rains last week, it occured again. It seems that the drain pipe must have backed up from all the rainwater. Do you have any idea what is happening and the best approach? Should we just drain it slowly when it is raining, or should we call in the plumbers?

Mike McClintock: PLumbing drains for fixtures like tubs are separated from other drains, say, from gutters and leaders. So you don';t have to alter tub use with the weather. SDounds like you do need to call a roofer to see where the leak is- somewhere in the roof as the bath is second floor. Take all the bath you want, rain or shine meantime.

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Washington, DC: I have both radiators and a heat pump in my 100 year old corner row house. The thermostat for the radiators is on the first floor. And the heat pump is on the 2nd. I've replaced all the windows which has made a big difference in keeping the heat in. In winters past, I've use both types of heat (set on lowest tollerable temperatures) with space heaters in my living room, and an electric blanket in the bedroom. Since it is just me and I'm rarely home. I suffer through the cold rather than pay utility bills in the $200 -300 range a month for warmth. Am I crazy to regulate the temperature in my house this way? Any suggestions on how I can use these systems more efficiently?

Mike McClintock: Sounds like you don't use them much, which is the best of all energy diets- just like eating. Setback thermostats do let you have more comnfort when you're there and save when you're not- maybe with greater setbacks.

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Aldie, Va.: My crawlspace is exposed dirt adn rock, so I think I need a vapor barrier. What kind of contractor or company does this work?

Mike McClintock: Probably an insulation company, or a G.C.. And if there are ducts or pipes down there it would pay to insulate, of course.

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Ann Arbor, Mich.: Hi - I'm having a problem with the floor in my spare bedroom. When I walk over a certain area, there is a metallic 'clink'. Looks like the floor is rubbing against the duct maybe. If so, how do I fix this? It is very annoying! THANKS.

Mike McClintock: You would have to have access from below. I'd work with sometime upstairs to recreate the sound while i was down there spottinfg exactly what the contact is. Then tightening a hanger or slipping a pice of rubber hose or insulation in the contact area would probably do it.

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Baltimore, Md.: thanks for the chats, they are very helpful for me, a new homeowner in getting ideas and info for projects. This is the 2nd winter in my home, our furnace is original, and about 40ish years old. We want to get Central air, and replace the furnace. Will the dual fuel heat pump be strong enough to get heat to our upstairs bedrooms if the furnace is in the basement? That seems to be our biggest issue right now. The kids are always cold. We have installed replacement insulation in the attic crawl space to help out some, but they are already complaining of the chilly temps in the upstairs. Thanks!

Mike McClintock: That's one of the problems with heat pumps, which generally work best where you have at least equal demands fro heat and AC. The unit would just have to be sized to fit. With ducts, you can push more than enough warm air- and use the delivery system for AC as well, which isn't a bad setup without a heat pump.

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Annapolis, Md.: I need some roof repairs (the roof itself is only 7 or 8 years old, but a valley and a vent pipe collar are leaking). Lacking a word of mouth referral, I was wondering if you have any experience with the online ServiceMagic referral service. Any good? Do they adequately prescreen contractors? Any other ideas would be welcomed. Thanks!

Mike McClintock: There are several Web services for contractors, but asking friends, then other contacts is probably better. If not firneds, try building material suppliers, maybe the mortgage banker, insurance agent and such.

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Silver Spring, Md: Hi Mike, we are replacing an old window with a bay window in our dining room. the builder likes aluminum windows, he says that wood clad windows are highly overrated and that aluminum windows are sturdy ,efficient and can be ordered to size. What do you think? thanks for your answer , Bill

Mike McClintock: Aluminum wondows? I like wood windows, specially with an exterior cladding to cut down the painting and maintenance. Wood is pretty decent insulator for something that strong. Or you might find it in fiberglass. Metal tyends to transmit more temperature, and needs to have what's called a thermal break. Ask the guy to show you where the break is so that the frame won't be as cold inside as it is outside.

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oil furnace again: I have another question about replacing my oil furnace with a gas one. Because my gas line is only fueling two small appliances should I be concerned that I might need a larger gas line for a furnace or do gas lines not work this way?

Mike McClintock: Probaly not, But you could call the company to be sure. And they might have a deal for you, maybe with an installation, rebate on a high-efficiency furnace or something like that- in order to get you as a gas customer. Worth inquiring about.

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Rootstown, Ohio: Hi Mike! I'm submitting early because of a meeting. In anticipation of what could be high heating bills, we've decided to try keeping our thermostat at 66 this winter. Is it okay if I don't use the exhaust fan in the bathrooms while I shower? My idea is that the heat from the steam will be at least a bit of added heat in the house. Or will the moisture cause problems? (In case it matters, the house is only 1 year old.)

Mike McClintock: Shower steam is a tossup. I keep my house under 66, but my blood likes those ancestral northern climates i guess. So when i open the bathroom door the steam dissipates quickly- and the house can use the blast of moisture. St 66 maybe it would linger. Then you're trading some kept warmth for some maintenance, mainly on tile grout and maybe mold- basically just more cleaning.

You could change the fan switch for a timer switch. Get out all steamy, dry off, and when you leave the room turn the fan on- with the timer set for 5 minutres. It will exhaust the excess moisture then shut itself off without wasting too much heat.

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Fairfax, Va.: How hard is it to install french doors? I'm not sure if it's a do-it-yourself job or if I should just call a professional.

Mike McClintock: If you're not sure you probably need a pro. If there are doors there now about the same size and you just replacing them, it'sa more DIY. If it's a new opening, or a different size, there will be structural work- the main hard part being a header: the beam over the door that supports everything above where you have to remove wall studs.

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Takoma Park, Md.: Mike,

I'm a new home owner and I'm a little unsure of what things are typical home maintenance in any given season. What would you consider the must-do items for home maintenance in the fall? For example: clean the gutters, have the furnace serviced, drain the outside faucets... For upcoming seasons? Thanks,

Mike McClintock: You hit the biug three already- mainly things that mushroom into larger problem if left unattended- and a check on the offset fittings (the obvious bottlenecks) in the leaders. You probably could add some caulking work outside, maybe touchup paint if some wood is raw and exposed. Then there's the heated bird bath installation, too.

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Mike McClintock: So that's an hour in a hurry, and time for quiz answers

HOME SENSE- HOUSING STATS -QUESTION

Your probably know about how much your home is worth, how old it is and more. But your frame of reference may be quite different than the national housing picture. Can you get the national numbers right?

1. How many owner-occupied homes are there in the U.S.?

- about 42,000,000

- about 72,000,000

- about 102,000,000

2. What is the average value of an owner-occupied home in the U.S.?

- about $85,000

- about $125,000

- about $165,000

3. What is the average age of owner-occupied units in the U.S.?

- about 10 years

- about 30 years

- about 50 years

4. What percent of all homes have central heating?

- about 75 percent

- about 85 percent

- about 95 percent

5. What percent of all homes have central airconditioning?

- about 55 percent

- about 75 percent

- about 95 percent

HOME SENSE- HOUSING STATS -ANSWER

1. How many owner-occupied homes are there in the U.S.?

About 72,000,000, or 68 percent of the 119,117,000 total housing units, the non-owner-occupied balance being rented, vacant or occupied seasonally.

2. What is the average value of an owner-occupied home in the U.S.?

About $125,000- but not where you live, I know.

3. What is the average age of owner-occupied units in the U.S.?

About 30 years old.

4. What percent of all homes have central heating?

About 85 percent. Some of the 15 percent remaining are in southern regions where you don't need much heat, or on space heaters, or using wood or coal.

5. What percent of all homes have central airconditioning?

About 55 percent; another 25 percent use room units.

Source: U.S. Census Bureau, Housing and Household Economic Statistics Division

Surveyed in 2001; Last Revised: February 18, 2005

Thanks for the Qs and comments; see you next time

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