What's Cooking
Stirfry stars, lost in recipe translation..
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Tuesday, November 1, 2005; 12:00 PM
Calling all foodies! Join us for another edition of What's Cooking , our live online culinary hour with Kim O'Donnel .
A graduate of Peter Kump's New York Cooking School, Kim spends much of her time in front of the stove or with her nose in a cookbook.
Catch up on previous transcripts with the What's Cooking
Listen to Kim's most recent cooking segment on WTOP radio.
The transcript follows .
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Kim O'Donnel: Yikes, it's November! How did that happen? And one would never know given the glorious Indian summer day we're having in Washington today. So, what do you know? I am still getting used to less light. Dunno bout you, but it sure is affecting my appetite, like I want to eat everything. I'm fiddling with a veggie-centric Thanksgiving entree that I hope to share with you soon...It's a lasagna, but not same ole. I've got butternut squash,sage, walnuts, garlic, onion, a bechamel sauce, plus gruyere and parm. But hey! Don't use those no-boil noodles. They are a laugh and a half. I'll keep you posted on my testing. What's happening in your worlds? Got a secret to share?
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Houston, Tex.: Kim,
Posting early because I'll be teaching during the discussion time. A while back there was a post asking for help for stir fry ideas, but it was near the end of the show and the thread was never continued. I've really started to rely on stir frys as an easy, fast and nutritious dinner -- but I don't have any real ideas beyond chicken, broccoli, carrots. We don't really like very strong flavors (i.e., curry), so any ideas you would have to help me be creative -- I'd appreciate it!
Thanks for these chats!
Kim O'Donnel: Houston, here are just a few items that can be easily stir fried -- i.e. cooked over very high heat in a wok or deep skillet: Bell pepper, onions, spnach, bok choy, snow peas, egg plant cubes, mushrooms, bean sprouts, asparagus (when in season)...Key is to NOT crowd the pan, or else you'll steam the stuff rather than saute it. Aromatics that work well here include garlic, chiles, ginger. Cook chicken or any other protein item first AND separately. After you've sauted, remove from pan, add more oil if necessary and continue with veg. Add protein at end so that everything can talk to each other. You haven't said much about how you're seasoning -- are you doing soy, teriyaki? Holler.
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Chicago, Ill.: Hi Kim. I look forward to reading your chat every week! I'm trying to find a recipe for this lentil soup that we eat at a Middle Eastern restaurant here. It's smooth (no chunks of lentils or vegetables), a bright gold color, and served with a squeeze of lemon on the top. All the recipes I've found for "Middle Eastern Lentil Soup" are for chunky soups with lots of vegetables ... I know I'm not being very specific here, but do you have any suggestions? What kind of lentils, how to cook them, what else to add? Any ideas you have would help, we would love to be able to make the soup ourselves as the restaurant is pretty mediocre otherwise.
Thanks!
Kim O'Donnel: Chicago, if the lentils are smooth, it means they've been pureed...But it could also be yellow split peas, which tend to break down pretty easily after a short time in the soup pot. I would add an onion and oil to start, maybe a clove of garlic. I would add coriander and cumin too, maybe a bit of cayenne. I would add lentils/split peas, then just enough water to barely cover. You could also add juice of 1 lemon. Cook til tender, then salt, pepper. If needing puree, do so. Then squeeze lemon again.
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Rhode Island: Kim --
In the past I have loved making bread by hand, from scratch, including pizza dough and french bread. (I was taught to do it "by feel" not with a recipe.) I am now trying to use more whole grains and would like to use wheat flour, in whole or part for these things. Any basic advice on substituting with w.w. flour? How about a baking book that concentrates on utilizing whole grains including wheat and rye, etc.?Thank you!
Kim O'Donnel: Check Beth Hensperger's book on baking with whole wheat grains. Also, Peter Reinhart has a title dealing with this subject as well. I trust these two resources implicitly.
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College Park, Md.: One of my favorite dishes to make in the winter is a kale, white beans, and sausage dish. (Basically I brown the sausage, usually some kind of link, toss in beans and some water for a while, toss in kale and maybe some more water until tender: voila) I've been trying to find a sausage that is healthier than the ones that taste best, but all the turkey sausages I've tried are terribly salty and the vegetarian ones don't quite hold up well. Any suggestions?
Kim O'Donnel: For poultry-based sausages, I've had pretty good success with the ones sold in the meat counter at Whole Foods. I like their chicken sausages. This could be an option for you. Also, I am a huge fan of the sausages made by SmithFresh, a family-run farm in Berryville, Va., and they come to area farm markets every week. Their pork sausages taste incredibly lean, and I've done their goat sausage as well. They are raising the animals they use in product and mindful of quality, conditions, etc.
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Boston, Mass.: It's starting to get cold here, so I'm thinking about chile. The amount of recipes, however, are overwhelming. What are good basics that every chile recipe should have, or warning signs that a recipe's not going to be yummy?
Kim O'Donnel: Hey Boston, we had a HUGE thread in last week's veggie transcript -- and maybe even mention in Tuesday show as well -- so please check those out. I think good basics are heat, heat and heat. Oh, and salt. Doesn't matter to meat whether meat or veggie -- but there's got to be plenty of flavor. I know that may sound vague, but I urge you to look at the great ideas flung about last week.
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Las Vegas, Nev.: As a new resident of the southwest, I am missing the fall greatly. Any ideas for a quick recipe that will remind me of fall in Washington?
Kim O'Donnel: What about a mushroom-y braise, with plenty o' shallots...cook those mushrooms down, down, and maybe even throw in a spritz of sherry vinegar to intensify the flavors. Salt, pepper, then add some chopped fresh parsely. Add to pasta with some goat cheese, or perhaps throw those shrooms over some polenta squares...or even a big hunky crust of toasted bread. What are you eating out there, my dear?
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Takoma Park, Md.: I am looking for a "heritage" turkey for Thanksgiving and so far I can only find them online. Are any local markets planning to sell them. I hate the idea of getting a turkey in the mail.
Kim O'Donnel: I might check Balducci's or Dean & Deluca for these birds. By the way, they are TRES CHERE this year. Something like a hundred bucks.
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Brining Help! Arlington, Va.: I loved your recipe for brined Thanksgiving turkey from last year but I've misplaced it and can't find it on the Web site -- would it be possible to get it from you again? Thank you so much!
washingtonpost.com:
Kim O'Donnel: The link my RocStar producer has posted takes you to last year's Thanksgiving roundup. You'll see link to Turkey how-to/video, plus lots of other tasty bits.
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washingtonpost.com: What's Cooking Vegetarian (washingtonpost.com, Oct. 27)
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Lost in Translation: Hi Kim,
Okay, I need to learn to cook again -- and to get better at it this time. Can you help me with translating cooking directions? I have a friend who gives what she thinks are directions that leave me in the dark.
"Use some oil, and add ..." Okay, what's the oil FOR, so I can figure out a kind to try and an amount to use?
"Just mix up some x,y, and z, to use." Okay, proportions, timelines?
Etc., etc. I find it's not just this friend, but also general information that's out there that is cleary written for experienced cooks, not people like me. I can follow a recipe, but not a vague description. How do I get those missing pieces filled in so their info becomes useful to me?
Lost
Kim O'Donnel: I tend to give guidelines, not blow-by-blow instructions, unless it's for baking, Lost. I do that not because I am lazy or unconcerned but because I urge home cooks, even beginners, to embrace a spirit of adventure and codependent-free enthusiasm. I know, how do you get started? Well, this is a good place. I always offer cooking time, but sometimes that too is a range, depending on one's oven, for example. Temp. I always give. Sometimes doneness is a personal preference, for example. But if you want something that covers basics, take a look at Elaine Corn's "Now You're Cooking." It's got BEGINNER all over it and is a great reference for someone with the jitters. Have fun!
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Arlington, Va.: Beer Butt Chicken -- My husband and I love it. That's the one where you pour out half a can of beer (or drink it), and put it up inside the chicken carcass and roast over indirect heat on a grill. We are thinking of doing it for Thanksgiving, with a turkey. Has anyone out there done it? Any hints for us?
Kim O'Donnel: That gives that song, "Boogie in the Butt," by Eddie Murphy, a whole new meaning. Um, I've heard it called "Beer Can Chicken" ....but BUTT? Ah well. Yes, I think it would work. But you'd probably need to do it with a fairly small turkey, like no more than 8 pounds. Let's ask around...
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Wilmington, Del.: Kim -- Why are you so down on the no-bake lasagna noodles? I've been using them for some time (with an incredibly small kitchen, any save of space or a pot off the stove helps) with regular lasagnas, bechamel-based versions, and they have worked out great -- I've never had any problem with them undercooking or drying out.
Kim O'Donnel: Glad to hear it. I wanted to love them, but the top layer never completely cooked. Tell me what you do in order to prevent that from happening.
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Fave Stir-fry: One half of a green cabbage, slivered as for cole slaw. Three medium pork chops, trimmed of fat, cut into two inch shreds (this is easier to do when it's a little bit frozen). Let the pork marinate for a minute with a few chopped scallions, a bit of soy, and a bit of sesame oil. Ginger is good here too. Stir-fry the cabbage for about three mins and salt it. Remove cabbage. Add a tad of cornstarch and a tad of water to the pork and mix about. Fry pork until stiff. Add cabbage back to it and bring everything together with a little more soy sauce. It's my house's favorite.
Kim O'Donnel: I want some of that right now, please.
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Veggie Chili: Kim - I made the veggie chili posted last week with the Rotel (diced tomatoes and green chiles). It was great! I used only two cans of Rotel, and then added some leftover tomatoes from our garden. It really is a keeper recipe that can be done in no time.
Thanks for your chats!
Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for the first-hand report. Another reason to check the archives!
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Alexandria, Va.: Hi Kim,
Two things I might add pertinent to last week ... Regarding the slimy tofu, pressing the block under something heavy for 30 minutes to an hour is one of the secrets to good tofu. This removes more moisture and allows the marinade to be absorbed. Tofu may also be diced in to 1/2" pieces and sauteed until a bit golden. This is quite good and no slime. Also, to add a a yummy, spicy kick to chili and lots of other dishes, try Soyrizo, the veg version of Mexican chorizo. Alas, I'm new here and haven't been able to find it. Melissa's and Frieda's are two brands I know.
Kim O'Donnel: More followup from last week's shows...many thanks!
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Vienna, Va.: My husband and I recently tried brussels sprouts, and we love them! We shredded them, sauteed them with pine nuts and sprinkled with fresh lime juice at the end of cooking. Any other good ideas for cooking them?
Kim O'Donnel: Shredding them is a terrific idea and a great way to get the brussels-intimidated engaged...I also love them roasted and am partial to a soy/sesame/ginger lacquer. The brussels club usually comes out this time of year to share their faves, fyi...
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Northern Virginia: I made a blueberry cobbler this past weekend with one cup of sugar, one cup of 1 percent milk, and one cup of all-purpose flour, and a little more than a cup of blueberries. And, added three quarters of a melted stick of butter to the bottom of the bakeware.
I baked the entire mixture at 375 for fifty-five minutes, and the cobbler part came out chewy.
Can you please explain why it was chewy, and suggest an alternative way to make this recipe?
Thank you.
Kim O'Donnel: First of all, save yourself the cholesterol and don't use an entire stick of butter the next time. The dish only needs a good smearing for coverage. Tell me more about how you made the topping. Here's an alternative:
1 2/3 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoons salt
2 1/4 teaspoons baking powder
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 1/4 cups heavy cream, plus 1 tablespoon for brushing
And by the way, you don't need to use cream if you don't want to. A little leavener goes a long way here. When you say chewy, do you meant flat? Talk to me.
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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim,
Just a suggestion for the Lost cook. A few years ago, I started watching cooking shows on the Food Network and have learned a lot about techniques, cooking terms and new ingredients. It has helped me feel more confident in cooking. There are also cooking programs on PBS if one doesn't have cable. Good luck.
Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for your thoughts...and there are more...
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Note on Vague Directions: I also think it's worth pointing out that cooking is a craft. My first batch of soap didn't come out right and neither did my first roast chicken (I glazed it with honey right from the start and it burned, burned, burned).
In my opinion, the best way to learn to cook is from experience (and having to eat your mistakes). Use the vague directions and figure it out. Your tongue will tell you when it's right.
Kim O'Donnel: Yes indeed. Cooking, to me, is metaphor for life. We must try, try again in order to get somewhere. Thanks.
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Alexandria, Va.: I soaked a chicken in salt water for three hours before roasting it with olive oil androsemary. It turn out great, the chicken was very moist. This is the first time I roasted a chicken so I don't know if the salt water bath helped, what do you think?
Kim O'Donnel: Yes, the salt bath helped, no question. Another name for this is brining. See link posted earlier on doing something similar to your Tgiving turkey, fyi.
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Beer Fanny Chicken?: I think it was Achenbach or Weingarten who gave it the name "Beer Butt Chicken." I read it in one of their columns ... My husband thinks it's manlier than "Beer Can Chicken ..."
Kim O'Donnel: Of course he does. And of COURSE it was one of those two. By the way, Weingarten and I are threatening to do a special combined show together in near future. Details to be sorted out.
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Silver Spring, Md.: Last year for Thanksgiving I grilled a 15 lb. turkey over indirect heat (though without the beer in the butt -- I used an herb-butter rub under the skin and in the cavity). Check Weber for good instructions.
Kim O'Donnel: Excellent. I hope you guys are taking notes for all these great ways to do your bird this year!
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Maryland, re: Good sausages: D'Artagnan makes a very decent chicken sausage, several varieties (truffle, apple, mushroom, sun-dried tomato). You can enjoy them as is, slice/dice them with beans for chili or even a for frittata. Lots of yummy ways to enjoy. I get them at Superfresh.
Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for chiming in!
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McPherson Square, Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim,
I'm sitting here reading your chat while eating lunch, a lacto-vegetarian lasagna made with the no-boil lasagna.
I was skeptical and concerned that I would have a crunchy mess on my hands, but it turned out perfectly for me. I baked the lasagna covered for 50 minutes and then let it cook another 10 uncovered.
Kim O'Donnel: Very glad to hear this. See? I screwed up somewhere. I need to do a round two.
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Silver Spring, Md.: I like beans. I eat a lot of beans. Beans are high in protein/fiber, low in fat and are way cheap. I eat 'em with brown rice and a side of green veggies. But I'm sick of cajun red beans and Cuban black beans -- my two staple recipes. Any other ideas? I'm an experienced cook so complicated recipes are fine. Dried, canned, slow-cooking, quick-cooking, whatever. I'll try anything. (Also I'm not vegetarian, so flavoring with meat = aok.) Help!
Kim O'Donnel: Well,, kiddo, you need to get acquainted with white beans and garbanzos, for starters. I also think you'd be a great candidate for lentils and black eye peas. Mung beans, too -- and I mention this because a reader is asking how to cook the mungs, and I haven't followed up. Before I dig into my books, does anyone have a tried and true method for seasoning the mung?
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Wilmington, Del.: Kim -- I've found that if you make sure the top layer of no-boil noodles is thoroughly covered with sauce and cheese (if using), the layer usually cooks through properly if you crimp the foil covering the lasagna tightly (but kind of tented) and bake it a bit lower and a bit longer than most recipes say. I also give pre-made frozen ones to people as birthday gifts around the office - I'm wondering if the top layer softens and picks up some liquid during that process ...
Kim O'Donnel: Good points all. I appreciate your wisdom.
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Silver Spring, Md.: Re:Note on vague directions ... I hope she didn't eat her first batch of "soap."
Kim O'Donnel: Gosh, I didn't even catch that....
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Brussels sprouts: Oh my God, I discovered the 'best' brussels sprouts recipe on epicurious.com. They're cooked in a pot with cream and a whole lot of garlic until tender, and then covered with a mash-up of pecans, basil, lemon peel, and salt and pepper. It is the best meal I have ever eaten.
Kim O'Donnel: Have a little brussels with your cream, why doncha? Sounds pretty darn slurpy, my dear. Perfect for Tgiving.
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Upstate New York: Regarding soyrizo ... sure, it looks like a good product when you see it in the store, and maybe it does add a good taste to chili, but ... yuck! You have to squeeze it out of the plastic tube it comes in and it looks far too much like poop (sorry, but it does) to seriously cook with. Plus, it doesn't solidify when you try to brown it. I'll stick with the fake ground beef crumbles and add spices, thanks.
Kim O'Donnel: Yuck indeed. Anyone have a different experience with the soyrizo? Have not come across it myself.
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Manchego cheese: My husband and I just brought back a wheel of Manchego cheese from a trip to Spain. Problem is, once we cut it open, how do we eat all of it before it goes bad? Any suggestions on recipes or storage?
Thanks!
Kim O'Donnel: I would wrap in parchment, then plastic, then into an airtight container. Consider giving some of it away so that you don't feel bad about too much of it going to waste. Manchego is just killer on its own, with a little olive oil for dipping and some almonds.
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Alexandria, Va.:
Use a Fosters Can
Kim O'Donnel: Ah, yes, the height of the Fosters is good for something other than getting completely wasted. Excellent suggestion for our beer-can poultry roasters....
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Brooklyn, N.Y.: I had the most amazing coffee at a Mexican restaurant last weekend, it was sweet and milky and tasted like orange andcinnamon. Is there a specific way to make this type of coffee, or should I just start putting orange peel andcinnamon in with the milk and sugar?
Kim O'Donnel: Sounds like milk was steamed. Steamed milk loves infusion, so it could have been steeped in the cinnamon and peel...The other possibility is that they used condensed milk...thoughts?
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Beans: I've done good things with a Deborah Madison tangine ... sautee some eggplant until it has brown bits and remove. Sautee onions and peppers. Add a bunch of paprika (smoked Spanish is nice) and some chopped tomatoes (canned works fine). Add canned chickpeas, tomato paste and water. Simmer. Mix with parsely.
If you went the navy bean route you could make some baked beans ... the leftovers are killer.
Kim O'Donnel: Nice!
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Kim O'Donnel: Hey it's already time to run. Zesty ideas coming from all corners of the nation. Many thanks for that. Take good care, and let's check in again next Tuesday. Eat your vegetables, please.
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