Talk About Travel

Holiday travel, the FLYi bankruptcy, San Juan and more

The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.

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You may also browse an archive of previous live travel discussions.

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John Deiner: Good afternoon. Welcome aboard this week's journey with the Travel section Flight Crew. Along for the ride today are K.C. Summers, Andrea Sachs, Steve Hendrix, Cindy Loose and, of course, Our Fare Lady, Carol Sottili -- and everyone is eager to answer any questions you may have. (We'll do what we can in regards to Independence Air's bankruptcy this morning.)

On a lighter topic, let's put you guys to work. Looking for fine whines today: Tell us your most disappointing splurge, something you decided to splurge on while you were on vacation and came away less than giddy. That helicopter trip over the Grand Canyon? That suite in Dubai? That brunch in the Caymans? Keep 'em short and sweet, folks, but mostly short. Let's give others a heads up on what may (or may not) be worth the price.

The prize is . . . (the envelope, please) . . . a pair of comfy-looking slippers we got from who knows what. Also up for grabs: an Independence Air T-shirt that made its way to our mailbox not too long ago. I'm thinking collector's item here.

And away we go.

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re: columbia, mo: To the chatter from last week heading to columbia next month... I grew up in the area..

For museums, the Museum of Art and Archeology.

For theater/classical music, the UMC concert series at Jessie hall or Stephen's college theater.

For nightlife, DejaVu for comedy, the BlueNote for live music, (plenty of sports or dance bars for the college crowd, also, but that wasn't on your list of interests).

For outdoors, the Katy trail is a walk/bike path that follows the Missouri river for as far as you would want to go. It's nice in the spring and fall but will be pretty bare by next month.

If you want to get out of town for a day, maybe head to Hermann for antique shops and wineries.

John Deiner: Great stuff...where were you when we needed you! Good to have you have you aboard.

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Bad Splurges: On our honeymoon in Maui, my husband and I were consistently disappointed by the fancy (expensive!) dinners we went out for, and realized that homemade nachos on the lanai of our condo turned out to be superior 90% of the time!

John Deiner: There ya go. I love in-room dining, at least when I'm supplying the chow. Great start.

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Arlington, Va.: This isn't really your beat, but in light of the current rioting and widespread arson in France, if you were the Post's Sunday Travel editor, would it maybe have been a good idea to reconsider the sub-headline on this Sunday's article touting Paris's "Newest Hot Neighborhood"?

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/11/04/AR2005110400570.html

KC Summers: Yes, it was a dumb thing to do. On several levels. One excuse: We are printed on the early run, and things hadn't degenerated quite so badly at that point. But still. Dumb.

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Fairfax, Va.: My husband and I are headed to Miami for the upcoming long weekend. Have things re-opened since Wilma? I know the airports have re-opened and we are planning on staying in South Beach... but I don't want to be an insensitive clod for taking a vacation in an area that was just hit by a hurricane... plus I would like to enjoy my weekend away! Thanks.

John Deiner: Good question, Fairfax. My understanding is that there are still quite a few folks without power, but that much of the area is operating well now. I'd definitely call ahead to see if the attractions you were aiming for are still open, and call your hotel to see how the property was affected. Anyone out there with firsthand knowledge.

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Whine, Whine, Whine: Business Class seating on Amtrak. More expensive, no apparent reason. Couldn't figure out much difference between that and Reserved Coach. At one point I asked my seatmate when they were bringing on the dancing girls. She told me not to get my hopes up.

Oh, that's right! I didn't have to pay when I asked for bottled water.

Wheeeeeeeee.

John Deiner: Free water? Whooooeyyyyy.

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Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: We had a great time at Tremblant outside Montreal this summer, and we are looking for someplace like that to ski this winter. What made Tremblant great was a large village (dozens of restaurants, a movie theater) within walking distance of the condo-type lodging. (We stayed at Sommet de Neiges which included a toddler room full of toys -- plus they supplied a high chair and the obligatory pack and play).

We are looking for this condo lodging within walking distance of a robust village somewhere on the East Coast that is within a one-hour drive of an airport. (We hear that Stowe is good but Killington is a hike). Any suggestions?

We would go back to Tremblant if we didn't have a think about no repeat vacations.

Carol Sottili: Why just the East Coast? It seems almost as quick to get out West, especially with the time difference. You can fly into Rutland for Killington, but flights are not nonstop. I haven't been to Stowe. Keystone in Colorado has a village right at the mountain. Anybody out there have any other ideas?

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Washington, DC: Wow, air fares seem to be really high right now. We had to convert our Thanksgiving plans from a plane trip to a road trip as a result. And I see that tickets around Christmas time are really expensive now too. Do you think we would be better off biting the bullet and buying X-mas tickets now, or is there a reasonable prospect they might go down a bit in the next couple of weeks? Thanks!

Carol Sottili: Holiday tickets are always high and there are rarely any excellent sales, especially on peak travel days. If you're willing to fly Christmas Eve or Day and New Years Day, early, you could get lucky. I'd buy now.

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Arlington, Va.: My pleasure-deflating splurge was having two suits custom-made. I don't know if it was my subconscious saying that I wanted to be a Republican. Regardless, I quickly regretted having spent the mulah and time to get those suits made. I was more in love with the endless possibilities of raw fabric, which led to a sharp decline to reality, when I realized that the tailor wasn't Michael Kors or the like. (snobbery not intended)

John Deiner: Oh, bummer. But ya know, you can be a Republican without having a suit made for you. Thanks for chiming in . . . great stuff there.

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Portland, Maine: Hi! I purchased some REALLY cheap tickets in August to travel to Budapest for Christmas. Now my husband has to have back surgery and I don't think we'll be able to make the trip. What can I expect when I call the airline? I am expecting to lose some money if I use the tickets later in the winter, but would they make an exception since this is a medical situation? Any thoughts?

Carol Sottili: You're going to have to pay the penalty to rebook, and it may wind up costing most of the price of the ticket. You can plead your case to the airline's customer service personnel, but they don't usually budge. Travel insurance would have helped, but it's too late for that now.

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Arlington, Va.: A question about online booking. I happen to know that Thai Airways flies direct, nonstop from JFK to Bangkok. If I plug WAS (or IAD or DCA) into any flight search engine for flights to BKK I see all sorts of itineraries, but none of them use the JFK flights. I get DCA-ORD-NRT-BKK, or IAD-NRT-BKK, or IAD-ICN-BKK or even IAD-LHR-BKK or IAD-FRA-BKK, but no DCA (or IAD)-JFK-BKK. Any idea why that might be? All of the ones I do see are on various airline combinations so it's not just that there's no Thai flights from Washington. Obviously I could book two separate tickets, one for a DCA-JFK itinerary and one for JFK-BKK, but I'd like to buy one ticket so my luggage can get checked all the way through and if anything weird happens with delays I might have a better case with the airlines. Should I just call a travel agent?

Carol Sottili: Have you tried calling Thai airlines directly? 800-426-5204

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Bethesda, Md.: Most disappointing travel situation ever?

New Orleans and Bourbon Street. I expected to go to Pat O'Briens and be treated to a very special drink. The hurricane? Way too sweet, way overhyped, not worth the $6 I spent on it.

Although after three or four of them, I really didn't care.

John Deiner: Funny stuff, Beth. Like they always say . . . volume, volume, volume. Thanks for sharing.

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Washington, D.C.: I love Independence Air, except for the inconvenience of getting to Dulles. I was sorry to hear that they've filed for bankruptcy, and a little worried. We had planned to fly them to see my sister in Vegas over the New Year's holiday. Should we avoid buying tickets? I notice that most airlines operate through days of bankruptcy and come out stronger. If so, do you think their average prices will increase down the line, or even in the next few months?

Thanks!

Cindy Loose: You've asked the million dollar question. I'm going to be talking with analysts and watching developments this week and might know more to tell in the upcoming Coming and Going column.

The company is promising that it will "continue its flight schedules" and will "honor reservations and tickets." The trick part of the question--for how long--isn't answered. However, Independence is asking the court to oversee a court-supervised auction to find investors or "purchasers." The company continues by saying that if the process is successful, "it's expected to be concluded in the next 60 days." I'm taking from that statement that the company will be giving it the old college try to raise money for 60 days, and my guess is they wouldn't give up in less than 60 days.

Not in my power to make any promises, but I'd feel fairly comfortable booking 60 days out. Anything further than that and I'd be inclined to sit tight and see what they come up with in the way of investors in coming days and week.

This is a little different than a major carrier like Delta, which has much bigger assets at stake.

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Fairfax, Va. : Submitting very early so I don't forget -- I will be travelling through London Heathrow this coming Saturday and have a day's layover (reach at 7 am and leave at 8 pm). I plan on leaving the airport to meet up with a couple friends but will be carrying my laptop and another pull-along bag with me. I'd like to leave these at the "Left Baggage" counter at Heathrow. My question is, would it be safe to leave my laptop there? How secure would my stuff be there? Thanks!

PS: Also, I've done most of the touristy stuff in London but if there's anything going on (theatre, local festivals etc.) that you know of next Saturday, I'd love to hear about it. Thanks!!

Steve Hendrix: Well, if you REALLY want to be sure you don't lose it, don't leave it. But I think it's probably safe enough under the usual odds. I've left things in Airport and railway checks plenty of times with no mishaps.

Have you done the new Tate yet? That's a museum not to be missed. Be sure to check out Time Out London's webpage.

Anyone got the latest 411 on London happenings?

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Los Angeles, Calif.: I'm taking a cruise out of San Juan and I plan on staying a couple of extra days in San Juan after the cruise ends. Are there any hotels under $100/night you can recommend in San Juan?

KC Summers: Good timing, LA. A bunch of us were searching for a cheap-but-good hotel in San Juan last month and found an Internet rate of $104 per night at the Courtyard by Marriott Isla Verde. It's a beautiful beachfront location, although it was a fairly hefty cab ride to Old San Juan -- between $12 and $20 one way, so you have to take that into account. It has a casino and dance floor and a pretty lively bar in the lobby, if you like that sort of thing. If you're looking for quieter digs, there are some interesting-sounding inns under $100 on Web sites like wheretostay.com and tripadvisor.com, though we didn't check these out.

Anyone have other places to recommend?

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Washington DC: Travel agent here...

What's your take on Independence Air's bankruptcy filing? I've been very careful about booking my clients on them since they have no ticketing agreement with other airlines, so stranded travelers are on their own if FLYI ceases service.

Cindy Loose: I'm thinking a month from now is very safe, 60 days from now pretty cool. But stay tuned--a white knight could come charging in. If I learn more this week, as I'll try to do, I'll share what I learn in Coming and Going

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Kendall Park, NJ: Hello! This is not something that I actually splurged on, but is more of a warning to others. One time, I stayed at the Casino Park Hotel (now known as Pestana Casino Park Hotel) in Madeira. I have only the best things to say about it. It was fabulous! Every room had a view of the ocean. If you're considering going to Madeira, stay at that hotel. You'll get free admission to the nightclub shows in the Casino when you show them your hotel admissions card. And it's within an easy walk of the downtown area. After I stayed there, I happened to come accross a brochure of that hotel that featured two room prices, and the higher price was for a guaranteed ocean view. What a waste of money, because, as I said, every room comes with an ocean view. There oughtta be a law!

John Deiner: Nice warning, Kendall. Also, never hurts to pay the cheaper rate and try to finagle an upgrade once you get to the hotel. Thanks.

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Warrenton, Va: Your article helped me decide that I need to go back to Kauai and explore further. A few things to note to those who might visit the island. Other fun activities exist like horseback riding that usually leads to some mountain waterfull, zipling, and taking the movie tours. I would recommed to those who visit to go in the summer b/c the ocean can be quite rough and dangerous during the winter months. In some cases the beach actually disappears.

KC Summers: Glad you liked the piece, Warrenton, and thanks for the good suggestions. I'm firmly in the mai tai camp myself, but after reading Julian's piece, even I was tempted to go jump off a waterfall.

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Washington, DC : I was just wondering if you all had any tips for traveling with an older person (84 years) who uses a walker during Thanksgiving. Flying from Dulles to JFK and back through LGA to Dulles. We are flyiing on Thurs and Sun if that helps.

Thanks a bunch!

Carol Sottili: Go to this link for some tips:

http://www.faa.gov/passengers/passengers_disabilities/

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Burke, Va.: Most disappointing splurge for us was the Tulum Mayan Ruins shore excursion on our Celebrity cruise last year. We expected a long bus ride and hot weather but little did we know that we would know more about the ruins from our guidebook than our tour guide would. We kept sneaking over to other groups to get some (any!) information on what we were seeing. It was disappointing to be so close to history and not learn anything more about it.

John Deiner: Ack. That's awful, and a good thing for others to think about when they book an excursion.

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Washington DC: Carol, are you anti-travel agent, directing the consumer to call the airlines direct?

Carol Sottili: No, but travel agents charge for booking airline tickets. Why not try the free way first?

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Vienna, Va.: Hola Flight Crew! How would you spend a 7 hour layover at LAX, the day before Thanksgiving? I'm headed to Tahiti for the holiday (I know, I know, rough life I have), and will have 7 hours at LAX. I'm a bit wary about going too far from the airport, given that it's the day before T-day, and I'm on an international flight. Any thoughts? the layover is mid-day, if that makes a difference. Thanks!!

Andrea Sachs: I would go to the beach.

A free shuttle runs along Century Boulevard (the road to LAX) that will deliver you to the beach, or the mall (your choice). It runs a loop to Manhattan Beach, which is close enough to the airport that you can enjoy some sunshine, ocean, shopping and cocktails without stressing over missed flights. The shuttle has several pick-up stops along the route; the safest way is to take a shuttle to an airport hotel (like the Sheraton), then ask the hotel concierge for the nearest pick-up spot (you can walk to it).

During other long layovers there I have taken a cab to the Getty Museum and hired a limo (hey, it's LA!) for a Hollywood tour. The main thing is: You don't want to wander too far and get stuck in traffic. Plus, security at LAX can be treacherous, so leave yourself loads of time.

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Re IAD to Bangkok: This may be a stupid question, but is it possible that one

of the itineries you're looking at is actually "almost

nonstop," with a fueling stop? That's a long flight.

Carol Sottili: No, it is really a nonstop flight - a 17 hour flight.

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Bethesda, Md.: Tell Capitol Hill that Quebec is AWESOME if they're looking for a Tremblent plus experience, and they get better food and it's a little cheaper as well. Mont St. Anne is da bomb diggity! Also, Ski magazine did something on the eastern Quebec resorts. Nothing like Whistler or any huge megaresort, but they are cheaper and less crowded!

Carol Sottili: Not quite staying at the slopes, but it's an alternative.

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Adams Morgan, Washington, DC: Chances are high that I am going to have to fly to New Orleans this week or next for a funeral. I'm wondering if you have any suggestions on getting the best fare? The problem, I'm discovering, is that there are so few flights into MSY right now, so what's available is really expensive. My other option would be to fly to Atlanta and drive to New Orleans with my sister.

Steve Hendrix: Look for fares to Baton Rouge (about 80 miles from N.O.) or Jackson, Miss. (180 miles, but Southwest flies there).

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Alexandria, Va.: For some unknown reason, I decided to purchase a 1st class ticket on the Heathrow Express from Heathrow to Paddington Station. Why I paid twice as much for a 15 minute train ride, I'll never know.

John Deiner: Great, Al! But that 15 minutes of comfort musta been sweet.

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Washington, D.C.: Any advice for flying with toddlers? Specifically, three toddlers? Specifically, three toddlers on a five hour flight?

I'm tempted to give out the flight number as a way to ensure an empty airplane.

Cindy Loose: Take six adults with you---I'm a firm believe in the two-per-kid ratio rule.

Okay, so maybe that's not feasible, and drugging them is probably against some silly law.

So, number one rule: Snacks. Take some healthy ones to distract them under normal circumstances, and for emergencies, junk food that is their favorite, and worry about good nutrition later.

Also, some new toys. They can be modest--things like pipe cleaners and some of that black paper that you scratch off the surface to see the colors below. The toys should be novel, never before used by your toddlers, and to get even a few minutes more mileage out of them, gift wrap them. Make sure every single set of little presents is exactly the same--down to color and size, so there is no possible way to fight over them.

Have some major talks before hand about flying, and promise some treat on arrival if they've behaved. I know, that's bribery, and not an advised parental behavior. But this is an emergency.

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Rockville, Md: Just wanted to provide a little post-travel experience.

My family just returned from an overseas trip to Italy on Luftansa. What a great airline. They took care of us and although the flight was long coming back from europe, the room between seats, even in economy, is not uncomfortable.

I will tell you, however, that the best security we found was in the Frankfurt Airport. We must have been asked for our passports at least five times and they were quite efficient. While going through screening, you don't just go through a metal detector, everyone is patted down. They don't fool around.

Just a thought

KC Summers: Hi Rock. I flew through Frankfurt last month and had the same impressions as you, both of Lufthansa (very professional, courteous staff, not-entirely-horrible food and decent legroom) and of the heightened airport security at FRA. It had the dual effect of making me feel more scared and more secure at the same time.

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Fairfax, Va.: My biggest travel disappointment was at the Outer Banks. This happened years ago, but I still remember the disappointment! Two tired parents of toddlers, had friends agree to watch the little ones so we could go to the Sanderling Inn for dinner. Had to wait a bit for our table to be ready, so we ordered 2 Planters Punches - and were out $16! Finally got to our table, and it was upstairs in a room with no view and a large party right seated next to us. Everything on the menu seemed outrageously expensive, so for the first and only time in my life, I said "no thanks" and left the restaurant without ordering anything. Headed down the road a bit and found a nice enough casual restaurant overlooking the bay and had a much more relaxing, affordable meal! With a view!!

John Deiner: Hey,Fairfax. Interest point about the Sanderling. I wasn't too crazy about that place either,and I never even stepped foot in the restaurant.

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Alexandria, Va.: My disappointing splurge: On the last night of a week long trip to Ft. Lauderdale, My fiance and I wanted to go someplace nice for dinner. We got dressed up and went on a boat cruise that unfortunately took us to their "private island" to have all you can eat ribs, spice shrimp, and bbq chicken. Not the type of food you want to eat wearing nice clothes!

John Deiner: Bummer, Al. Guess those dinner cruises can be real dicey.

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Stuck in Vegas?: I booked a one-way ticket on FlyI for next week. Flying home from Vegas to DC. Saw this morning they filed for bankruptcy protection. I'm assuming I'll be ok and they will still be flying next week. Please say yes.

Cindy Loose: I would expect Independence to be flying next week, so I'm happy to make you happy and say yes.

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Baltimore, Md.: Hi We are planning a trip to Italy in June for 2 adults and 2 children (8 and 11). Can't decide if we should use a tour co (Perrillo, Trafalger etc) or plan it on our own. I travel quite a bit but usually only in the USA. Family is not seasoned travellers. Any suggestions? Thanks

Carol Sottili: Do you speak any Italian? Do you want to go to the major tourist cities (Venice, Florence, Rome) or are you looking at smaller, more rural areas? If you speak some Italian, and you're sticking to the big cities, you'd be able to do it yourself. It's more work to plan it yourself, but some people just don't like tours. I think, with your crowd and travel experience, I'd do a tour. But I'm conservative - when I'm doing a week-long trip to a strange place, I like to optimize my time. Others don't see it that way.

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Washington, DC: In a bit of a jam here. My boyfriend and are supposed to be travelling to Dakar next week for a 9 day vacation. Royal Air Maroc cancelled our trans-Atlantic flight and has been loath to communicate with Orbitz (who we purchased the tickets through) to place us on new flights. We have been trying to resolve this problem for over 1 month now...and I've decided to give them until this Friday to solve the problem. If they have not I will ask for a full refund and use that money to book another flight. So my question is, with one week to plan and about $1100 per ticket, where would you choose to spend your vacation? I'm open to almost anywhere in the world although I'd prefer a hot climate, and places with lengthy visa procedures are probably out of the question at this point. Suggestions?

Steve Hendrix: Tahiti? Figi (you can do both with many of the Qantas or Air New Zealand flights out of LAX). Thailand? Heck, you get a lot of swell places for 1100 Semolians. (Samolians? Sumoliens?)

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re: Christmas flights: Here's a tip for those with American frequent flier miles. For certain "short hop" flights you can get a round-trip flight in exchange for 15,000 miles and a $5 fee. Though a few days are blacked out (Christmas Eve, for example), I just booked a flight from Chicago to Cincinnati for 12/23 - 12/27. (Similar flights are going for around $300 on all airlines.)

Carol Sottili: That might work for destinations that aren't super popular, but I think you'd have a difficult time booking Miami or Los Angeles or the like at this point.

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Falls Church, Va.: Not worth the cost: my husband and I were staying at a very upscale converted mill outside of Beaune, France about 10 years ago and when we booked our 3-night stay we were advised to book dinner for each night as well at their Michelin-starred restaurant. Well, the first night we had, among other horrors, a starter "pasta" of one giant black squid-ink pasta filled with tentacles, and a coq-au-vin in which the wine was still raw as it had just been added at the end. We cancelled the remaining nights and drove into Beaune each evening for wonderful, much-less expensive dinners!

John Deiner: Yikes...food that bites back. And I bet you much enjoyed the experience of wanderin' around than staying put.

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Disappointments: Our most disappointing vacation was unfortunately our honeymoon. We went to Puerto Vallarta mainly because it was October and we didn't want to get hit by hurricanes. So we didn't do tons of research and were disappointed that though our Westin hotel was on the ocean, there was no beach! We had ants in our hotel room, including in the bathtub and kitchen sink, which the hotel tried to help kill by indiscrimnately spraying Raid. The cap to the whole experience was the realization that the meal on the airplane home was the best food we'd had all week.

John Deiner: So sad, especially when airplane food constitutes your best meal.

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Bad splurge: I was backpacking through Taiwan with my sister, and we were really tired one night and decided to stay in a nicer hotel that talked up their fabulous local "Hakka (aborigine) culture show". We decided to spend some money to attend (we were young and broke). What a fiasco! It was a bunch of bored, bitter locals who shuffled around for a few minutes. There was a part where they were supposed to show a hunting scene, which consisted of a cardboard pig and some man kind of jabbing a stick at it. Maybe it WAS worth the money, because we still laugh about it 15 years later!

John Deiner: "Bored, bitter locals" KILLS me. Especially when you can get the same thing without leaving town...thanks for sharing.

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Upstate NY: Dear Flight Crew!

I just got an email from Northwest saying "Your trip has been adjusted to the itinerary below due to a change in our flight schedules." After comparing the 6 connections in the itinerary, I realized that the last leg now departs 2 hours later than the original.

Never had this happen to me before - does one have any recourse? It's obviously undesirable to have the lay-over extended...well, at least it isn't anywhere near the International Date Line, when they kick you off the plane as passengers are at their most sleepy.

Carol Sottili: This has happened to me the past two times I've booked United flights. I didn't bother trying to change because there were no other flights that were more convenient. If you see that there are more convenient options now, give them a call. Make sure that all your connections still work.

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No Whining Here...: Except to ask: Why didn't you tell me how beautiful the Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel was? I have not been to a more exquisite hotel in my life. What really shocked me: the experience made the (hefty) price I paid seem like a bargain. The service level, the view, and the gorgeous room (Frette sheets, great lighting) - WOW!

John Deiner: I tried to tell you, but you wouldn't listen.

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My splurge: Went to Cancun for our honeymoon and took one of those excursions to Isla Mujares. We are budget travelers and don't normally bring home many treasures, but my new hubby found some sort of black pottery/vase in a small shop. It was unlike all the other souvenirs so we bought it. We really thought we found something unique.

Well, what do we we see when we get back and go to Target? Yup, our cute little black vase. It was part of their special world treasures section they had last year. So much for one-of-a-kind.

John Deiner: Oh no!! At least ya got that memory to go with it now, which is more than you could have said about a trip to Target.

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Colonial Beach, Va: Would like to book passage on a merchant ship to europe next spring. Are there any booking agents out there that handle merchant ships, like the SeaLand and Marsk lines, all of which have staterooms for paying passengers?Thanks, Hank

Carol Sottili: I'm not sure about those particular lines, but one agency that handles freighter cruising is www.travltips.com.

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Bowie, Md.: Hi crew.....biggest splurge....back in 1980's spent $175 a ticket to see Frank Sinatra up in Atlantic City. Thought it was about time to see the legend. Wow. A disappointment and a half! He did 40 minutes. No encore, no patter with the audience. Felt it was the BIGGEST ripoff and THE most disappointing show I've ever seen. Still is.

John Deiner: Gosh, Bowie. I thought you were going to say it was Frank Sinatra JUNIOR. Now that would have been a real blow. But $175 for 40 minutes? Yer right: It's a ripoff.

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Allentown, Pa.: A flamenco show in Seville at 40 euros per person. It got us an hour of bad warbling and a really overpriced glass of sangria each. We only had one day in the city and didn't have the time to go looking for a bar and then sit there all night in case people started clapping and stomping and playing and singing. Looking bad, I rather would have spent the night in a bar and take a chance on no spontaneous flamenco.

Steve Hendrix: Yikes. How much would it have been for GOOD warbling?

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Arlington, Va.: Bangkok traveler here. No I have not called Thai Airways yet, but will do so soon. I won't be going until September so I think I am a little early. It occurred to me that one problem I may be having with the online engines is that the itinerary via JFK actually goes east to JFK and then west to BKK while all the ones I have seen only go in one direction or the other. I seem to recall some issue with "backtracking" when I booked a FF ticket once where they had to make sure travel was all in one direction. The JFK-BKK flight is 17 hours, but it is the most sensible in that it departs at noon and arrives around 4 PM the next day. I have heard that changing planes in Tokyo or Hong Kong is to be avoided if at all possible and those flights all arrive in BKK at 11 PM or so.

Carol Sottili: Make sure you're asking for days when the nonstop flights operate - Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday.

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Arlington, Va.: Luggage question: I'm flying to Malta via Heathrow with Virgin Atlantic then Air Malta. Virgin says I can check my baggage through, but I must confess I'm very nervous to leave my baggage to 2 airlines (have this vision of them just blaming each other if it's lost). Has anyone done this? Is it ok? Maybe I should just carry-on? I tend to travel very lightly. Any advice? thanks!

John Deiner: Hey, Arl. I had the same flights and my luggage did just fine (though carrying on is always a time-saver). One thing I didn't count on was the close call between flights--almost didn't make the connection. If you fear that may happen, I'd try to carry on.

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San Mateo, Calif.: I will be flying to the Philippines Dec. 23-31 to visit my sister, who works for the U.S. government in Manila. Starting in San Francisco, I will have 6-8 hour stopovers both ways in Vancouver; Tokyo; and Seoul, South Korea. Is it possible to stash my luggage and take a day trip in any of those places? And if so, what weather should I dress for? I'm told Manila weather is like Hawaii -- 80 degrees and frequent rain, but bring a light jacket for evening. So for the stopovers, should I just add a couple of cotton sweaters and a shawl, or should I go all-out and bring a parka?

Cindy Loose: I LOVE Tokyo, but given how far the airport is from downtown, I think you need more than 6 hours to make it worthwhile. If you have eight hours, you could get a glimpse. But taxi rides are extremely expensive--over $100 I'd guess.

Does anyone know what transportation is available from airport to downtown Seoul, as in how long it takes and how much it costs?

Vancouver should be do-able. The weather is likely to be in the 30s and 40s. To me that's a bit chilly for cotton sweaters and a shawl, but it could work. Alternately, if you have some high quality insulated underwear, that could work with the sweaters and still take less room than a parka.

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Rockville, Md.: Hello. These chats are always a great way to spend a Monday afternoon.

My question is this: Can you recommend a spa for someone who's not really a "spa" person? My mother has been incredibly stressed lately, in addition to having chronic pain. She is looking for a quiet place she can catch a little peace, possibly in a mountain or natural setting, where she wouldn't have to leave the premises and maybe could set her own pace (no mandated fun). I think she'd prefer somewhere within 2 or 3 hours' driving distance from the area, but further might also be OK.

If you could help me find something for her, I'd be incredibly grateful.

Carol Sottili: Try Coolfont - www.coolfont.com. It's kind of rustic, but it has good low-key spa facilities.

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Washington DC: We took a relatively expensive tour (http://www.siankaan.org/tours.htm) of the Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve in Tulum, Mexico. We were told that that while we might see some wildlife, the trip was really opportunity to see and learn about the reserve. OK, call us shallow, oafish Americans, but while it was somewhat interesting to learn a bit about the ecosystem, we got a bit bored after riding around the bay for a few hours. "Look, mangroves!" And, "Hey, more mangroves!" And, "Wait, I think I saw a bird! No, just more mangroves." Given our short attention spans, the ocean snorkeling the next day was more fun: "Ohh! Purple fish! Ahhh! Yellow fish!"

John Deiner: You shallow, oafish Americans. Thanks for sharing, D.C.

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Fine Whine: "Snuba" diving in Hawaii. that's where you scuba/snorkel -- the tank is at the surface. $150 each for me and my husband, total of like 8 minutes of instruction, 30 minutes of dive time and 100 gallons of water swallowed. Not to mention the guide kept yelling at me for resurfacing to throw up salt water!

And we chose that over the heliocopter ride, b/c we were there for a wedding and couldn't afford to do both!

John Deiner: Great post, FW. Sorry you swallowed that much water!

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Pukalani, Maui: Aloha, I left my cell phone with all its adresses in the seat

pocket of 34 A on United Flight 3 from Kauhului ot O'Hare in

Chicago. within a few days United Lost and Found called and

said they had it, to send a fed Ex #, and I did. But months

and multiple email discussions with customer service later --

this happened June 24 -- they will not give it back. Do I

have any options rather than not flying United again?

Actually I have many other complaints about poor United

service that would indicate that a switch in carriers is called

for. Thanks, Jule Wind

Steve Hendrix: Hmmm, have you climbed up the ladder to supervisors, super-supervisors and arch-angelsupervisors? Seems like you ought to be able to get your phone, once they've done the hard work of finding it. You have the names of the serfs who called, I hope?

I've had some bad times on United, but I have to the lost-and-found people once saved my stupid rearend when I left my wife's Bose Noise-Cancelling headphones on a flight to Honolulu. I called, they had them, and held them for when I came back through a few days later.

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DC to Phoenix Drive: Are any of you travel gurus well-versed in cross-country driving? I just hit Dr. Gridlock up for info, but I don't think this is really his area of expertise...

I'll be driving cross country in a few weeks, from DC to Phoenix, AZ. I've checked online trip planners, like Google maps, Mapquest, MapsOnUs, and others, and gotten some alternate routes from other people who have made the trip before. Drive time estimates vary from 34 to 45 hours.

1. What's the most reliable place to find accurate driving times?

2. How important do you think it will be to have hotel/motel reservations at places like Motel 6/Econo Lodge/Comfort Inn 3-6 days before Thanksgiving? If I don't know how long the drive times will actually be, it'll be really tough to know where I'm going to end up each night.

Any advice appreciated!

Carol Sottili: Your chances of getting accurate driving times are probably better if you break it up into sections. I think Mapquest.com and Freetrip.com both do a good job.

As for making hotel reservations, I would have said no, not necessary, until I went through an absolutely horrible ride home from dropping my daughter in college at St. Louis. We went from hotel to hotel along I-70 in the Wheeling, W. VA., area for three hours before finding a place with an opening that didn't have bugs crawling on the bed. Never again.

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Columbia, Md.: Hey Crew,

I really want to get out of town for T-day, but don't want to spend too much or take much more over two hours to get there. Can you recommend any cool places to go that haven't been hit by the hurricanes and won't empty out my pockets? I'd like to be by water, but not a requirement. Thank you.

KC Summers: You'd be surprised how far away from Washington you can get in two hours, Columbia. Not sure what your goals are once you get there, but here are a few suggestions:

* The Eastern Shore -- for peace and quiet, bike rides and boat rides amid great natural beauty. Water: the Chesapeake Bay.

* Harpers Ferry/Shepherdstown -- for history, antiquing, horseback-riding, wineries. Water: Potomac and Shenandoah rivers.

* Richmond -- for a hip urban scene plus history, museums, cool neighborhoods. Water: James river.

* Philly -- for history, museums, great restaurants. Water: Delaware and Schuylkill rivers.

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Poolesville, Md.: Most disappointing activity was for "Fluming Da Ditch" through old sugar aqueducts on the Big Island, Hawaii. I don't even regret the money, whatever it was, but it was that we blew at least half a day, when we could have been doing something more exciting. We've enjoyed water rafting, and were bowled over by the natural beauty of kayaking the Wailua River on Kauai. W had hoped this would be a great combination of the two. It was closer to drifting through a cow pasture.

You had to be at the office very early and the boats had no speed at all. I remember asking the guide if things got any faster and being told "No" with a finality that suggested that both the guide and we understood this was the wrong choice for us.

Always enjoy the chats.

John Deiner: Hey, thanks Pooleville. But man, that trip does sound like a downer.

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Washington, D.C.: I need suggestions for travel gear. I drew my uncle in our family holiday gift exchange and he is quite the business traveler. Any suggestions for a gift around $30 that would make his trips more enjoyable? Thanks!

Andrea Sachs: Here are some ideas:

A gift certificate for DVDs at one of the airport rental places.

A travel pillow and blanket combo, with or without the eyeshades (try PB Travel).

An insulated lunch box (soft; check out LL Bean) filled with good treats to eat.

A stack of good airport paperbacks, crossword puzzle books, Mad Libs, etc.

Slipper socks.

Some fun luggage tags (see Flight 001), so he can pick out his black rolling bag among the others.

The OHSO toothbrush, in which the toothpaste is in the handle, so you can just squeeze and brush.

A dinner certificate in his home town, so when he finally stops traveling, he can treat himself to a fine meal.

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Travel disappointments : Although it doesn't qualify as a splurge, the time spent at Blarney Castle on a trip to Ireland some years ago felt like a waste. A nice day spent in line, waiting for a split-second opportunity to lean back (while assisted and held by two attendants) until virtually upside down, only to kiss a rock and be on your way. The entire atmosphere at Blarney is very touristy and artificial. Though I don't recall the admission itself as especially expensive, any travel day has real costs in terms of transportation, accommodations, food, as well as use of precious vacation time. The time is better spent elsewhere -- though not in Pisa, Italy or at Fisherman's Wharf in San Francisco, which have the same generic touristy atmospheres.

John Deiner: Excellent point, TD. The amount of time spent (or wasted, depending on your perspective) on an activity can really cut down on the quality of a vacation.

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RE: San Juan hotels: I do believe the main reason the Courtyard is so cheap is because the planes take off and land at the main airport right next door, but if you can put up with it, that's fine. We stayed at the Wyndham in Condado and it was not worth the dollars (around $250 a night). If you don't mind staying at a place that's more like an inn than hotel, there are two El Canario properties that looked quite nice when we walked by them, and they're well located, though not right no the beach (maybe a block away).

KC Summers: Actually the proximity to the airport was a plus for us -- we had an early flight so were looking for something convenient. The planes didn't bother us at all. Maybe the rum punches had something to do with that....

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Fairfax, Va.: Hi Flight Crew,

I'm going to Santo Domingo (Dominican Republic) in late December(between Christmas and New Year) to about January 10. I'm looking for the best fares, and so far, the best I can find from WAS is 350 on Usair. Should I buy now or wait for a deal later? Please help a poor college student out!

Carol Sottili: If you were going to Punta Cana, I'd say go to www.spiritair.com - the airline is holding a $99 each way sale. But I think $350 to Santo Domingo at that time of year is about as cheap as you'll get.

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A week's vacation in Europe... where to go?: I have a week's worth of vacation time to use up at work (use it or lose it), and I want to spend it in Europe, ideally in a city or two where I can explore the museums, palaces, historic sites and go to the opera, theatre and classical concerts at night.

I lived in London one summer, and would be up for going back, even though just about all that I did not see was Notting Hill, the Tate and Kensington Palace. But, I could always take a day trip or two to Leeds, Cambridge or Stratford-on-Avon (I've been to Oxford, Bath and Brighton). I know that Virgin Atlantic is running a number of vacation packages that include flight and hotel.

Other ideas include a Paris or Amsterdam/Brussels.

Where would you recommend? London, Paris, Amsterdam/Brussels or another city or multi-city combination?

Cindy Loose: I don't want to confuse you further with options, but you need to take a look at www.openjet.com, which lists discount carriers in Europe.

Chances are the cheapest flights you'll find will be to London or Frankfurt, and if I wanted theater, I'd go for London. Stay a night for the theater, then jump on a flight based on how long it took and how much it cost, then pop back to London a day before my flight for a second night of theater. For palaces, museums and opera, I'd think Vienna.

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Washington, D.C.: Can you recommend a few good bed and breakfasts that are right in the town of Carmel-by-the-Sea? I plan to travel there with my girlfriend next summer but am having a hard time determining which places might be best to make reservations at.

KC Summers: How about it, clicksters -- any Carmel tips for Wash?

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Washington, DC: For the stopover in Seoul -- I can't recall but the Seoul airport is not close to downtown and you'd definitely want to take a cab. Won't be dirt cheap but not as expensive as Tokyo. Another thing ... it will be FREEZING in Seoul. I went around Christmas last year and while i honestly enjoyed it, it was some of the most bone-chilling cold I've experienced. If you can make the time and take the chill, I'd suggest you spend a few hours walking around Insadong, the artists district.

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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Arlington, Va.: This is a regrettable splurge. On a visit to Nha Trang, I thought I'd check out the wildly celebrated Ana Mandera (sp?) resort. You know, typical resort with touted spa and private beach. I booked a couple spa services for my siblings and I. Instead of feeling that cloud-nine feeling after a relaxing spa visit, my siblings and I felt that we had a shiatsu on our face instead of a facial. And, when I retrieved my wallet from my locked locker, I noticed that someone helped themselves to the cash in my wallet.

John Deiner: Ouch. What a nightmare.

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RE: Hakka (aborigine): Well, you were had before you even handed over the money. "Hakka" just refers to a particular dialec/people - not aboriginals - in fact they were an immigrant group from China. "Hakka" literally means "guest families".

There are many Taiwanese aboriginal tribes. I've been to one of those shows, and it was no worse than a Hawaiian do-up.

I don't think your story was so much "those Taiwanese people" as just in general tourists being taken advantage of.

John Deiner: Ah,some clarification. Thanks for clueing us in.

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Arlington, Va.: I have tickets for the week of Thanksgiving on Independence Air. What should I do - - will they be flying or should I make other arrangements? Thanks!

Cindy Loose: anything you'd try to buy now would cost you an arm and leg. I think you'll be okay. Now mind, I'm not promising. I guess what I'd do is check what it would cost to get a new ticket on another airline, then decide if it's worth that price to get something closer to a guarantee.

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Yep, we're going to India: I wrote in last week, saying my family and I were a little worried about a planned trip to India in light of the Delhi bombings and other terrorist concerns. I'm happy to report that we ARE going ahead with our 2-week January sojourn in Rajasthan and looking forward to it immensely. Thanks to the staff and chatters for their comments.

John Deiner: Good for you, and thanks for the report back. Have a great trip.

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Bethesda, Md: Hey, crew -

Got a great deal on a flight to Chicago, so a friend and I are meeting up there next week Saturday. She'll be taking the train from Milwaukee, so our initial meeting point will be Union Station. The only thing currently on our "must do" list is shopping at Marshall Field's. Do you or readers have any suggestions? We've both been to Chicago many times before, so we've done the Sears Tower, Navy Pier, Michigan Ave, and the like. Would love some specific restaurant suggestions (tasty, but not too pricy), etc.

Thanks!

John Deiner: Hey, Beth....with our limited time, we'll let the clicksters handle this one. Any ideas out there?

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Arlington, VA: Well, this wasn't as much of a splurge as a grand overseas trip, but back in 1998 or 1999, my husband and I were in desperate need of a getaway. We coordinated with friends of ours, who had received as a gift two nights at Great Oak Manor, a B&B on the eastern shore of Maryland, just outside Chestertown. The website made it look great, just what we needed, close by. We made reservations to join our friends. Then our friends couldn't make it. Well, never mind, we'll go on our own and make a 4-day weekend of it. I called to change the reservation, and our reservation was not what we thought it was; we weren't in the larger room as we had asked for. The nice lady told us we could have the room with a balcony. Well, that sounded good. So, we arrive there, a Thursday in August. The room was actually a small attic room with a small window. The "balcony" was an elevated seating area with a railing and room for just one metal folding chair. The walls were so thin we could hear the tv's blaring in adjacent rooms, but we had no tv in our room to fight back with. The following morning, we went downstairs to the most underwhelming breakfast at a B&B I had ever seen, in a dining room outfitted with tables and chairs that looked like they came from a cast-off sale from a Comfort Inn. Breakfast was packaged yogurts and cereal and a lady asked me if she could go out back and toast a piece of bread for me. The room cost $130 plus tax a night, but we've had better breakfasts at price points above and below that. The "library" downstairs had the most uncomfortable chairs.

I saw the owner, and I asked a few general questions about the place -- I wanted to be polite. He told me that he was a MARKETER before buying the place. It all made sense.

On the Sunday morning, we left early. We could not get home fast enough.

Steve Hendrix: Thanks for the review, Arl.

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Arlington, VA: I have a tri-band cell phone that I would like to use overseas. I am interested in taking advantage of foreign cell phone plans, however my cell phone is blocked from using other sim cards. Do you or chatters know places where I can get my cell phone unlocked? I tried asking the customer service of my plan, but they declined.

Carol Sottili: There are Web pages that say they will unlock your cell phone, for a price. I have no idea whether the service is real, or a scam. Anyone out there have first-hand experience?

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Re: Cross Country driving times: Having driven DC to CA three times, I would recommend using AAA first; then breaking up the trip into sections using yahoo and/or mapquest; and then booking hotels ahead of time, which can be cancelled last minute (like by 6pm the day of arrival). By waiting to book wherever you end up, you not only take the risk of fleabag motels, but sometimes something is going on in a city and there simply aren't rooms to be had (had this experience once in Albuquerque).

Carol Sottili: Good ideas.

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Washington DC: Please help! I'm scheduled to visit Paris Dec. 1-4. Also, I am flying back to the US from Paris. Due to the riots and violence going on in France, the American Embassy put out a warning for tourists, but when I called my airline company (Continental), they said that they didn't receive any official statements from the State Dept. that would allow them to refund my tickets with no penalty.

My question is first of all, do you think it's safe to travel to Paris now or in December, and is it worth incurring a $200+ penalty for changing my itinerary on my own, if they won't refund it?

Cindy Loose: I was a little surprised today when checking the State Department site to see they hadn't posted a travel advisory. Seems like serious stuff going on.

But I'd wait a couple days before doing anything. Maybe things will calm down, and the government will get a handle on things. Then again, if it escalates....Either way you'll have a better feel for your comfort level.

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Boston, MA: My wife went to visit her friend who, unfortunately, is dying. She bought trip insurance in the event that the friend died before my wife could get to see her. As the situation deteriorated, my wife booked a flight on another airline and rushed to see her. Now she wants to cancel the first ticket but the airline says -- sorry, the illness was a "preexisting condition" and they won't let her get out of it. Isn't that horrible? Isn't that what flight insirance is for?

Carol Sottili: This story is a good reason I tell readers that they MUST read the fine print on the travel insurance policy before purchasing. Some policies have so more loopholes than situations they will cover. Read the policy and make sure that the "pre-existing" clause is in there - don't take their word for it. My mother bought trip insurance and my aunt died while she was away, but the insurance wouldn't cover it because my aunt was not considered "immediate family." Compare policies on www.insuremytrip.com.

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To the person who was just rude to me!: I am the person who wrote in about Taiwan. Considering that I lived there for a year and was just doing some backpacking for fun, I wouldn't consider myself a "typical tourist". Also, I had a roommate who was Hakka and told me that he was aborigine and that the Hakka are the original natives from Taiwan. Maybe it's not accurate, I never thought to contradict him. You weren't there, so why did you feel the need to write in to tell me that my story is wrong? Talk about a bitter local!

John Deiner: Now, now. Don't make me pull over and stop this chat. I'll give you the last word, as you've now defended your position.

Can we all just get along?

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Foggy Bottom, Washington, D.C.: What are the chances of me scoring airfare and accomodations to Torino for the winter olympics without burning my entire savings account?

Andrea Sachs: Tickets are still available (except for the big-draw events), with prices ranging from $34 (curling) to $185 (downhill skiing). Stay away from brokers, who will inflate prices, and instead buy through the official retailer, CoSport. The biggest cost will be lodging, which is scarce, which translates to expensive. Don't even attempt to stay in the city; look instead in the outskirts of the outskirts (about 40 miles or so out). However, don't go too far--like two hours to Milan--or you will have to budget for daily train fares and/or car fuel. The Olympic's Web site (www.torino2006.org) has an accommodations listing, and CoSport (www.cosport.com)is equally helpful.

As for fares: I just did a search on Orbitz and found $500 flights--that'll leave you some savings, right?

The best sources is CoSport, the official Olympic packager.

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Washington DC: Obvious question for today is the future of Independence Air, whose parent company (FLYi.com) filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy today. I've been one of the doubters the washingtonpost.com article talks about, and wonder two things.

1. Will the filing make a difference to anyone who doesn't work for the airline?

2. How long before FLYi.com files for bankruptcy under Chapter 7 (liquidation)?

Cindy Loose: The biggest immediate diff will be for employees. The CEO has taken a pay cut of like 25%--a gesture taken before going to the rank and file and asking for givebacks.

They've got to come up with investors or buyers in the next 60 days. Not being a very adverturous speculator type, which is one of the many reasons I'll never be rich, I can't imagine who's going to plunk down millions in this environment of high fuel prices etc., but who knows. We'll all find out relatively soon.

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DC but Former Chicago: I would do a architecture tour of Chicago. Here is a link that had great tours. http://www.architecture.org/ I would walk around wicker park and going shoping in the funky shops and then have dinner. There is a pretty ice skating rink in Grant Park(not sure it is open yet) I would go to Bergauf(German restraunt and one of the oldest place in Chicago) Art Institue is always fun.

John Deiner: Love that tour. Thanks for the tip.

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Chicago tips: I recommend heading to Millenium Park which happens to be right near the Marshall Fields on State Street. There is a great restaurant there called Park Grill. It overlooks an ice skating rink that is opening for the season on Saturday.

John Deiner: Good stuff...thanks for the head's up.

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Unlocking cell phone: This may sound obvious- but has the chatter from Arlington asked his cell phone company to unlock the phone. My understanding is, if you can change sim cards, your cellular company will unlock your phone. I know Tmobile unlocks their phones for sure- but you have to ask.

Carol Sottili: I read the posting quickly, but I believe chatter said the provider refused to unlock.

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re: Mariott Isla Verde: Hope it's not too late. Just started reading and saw the post about the Marriott Isla Verde. We did the same thing...stayed a few days after our Cruise in San Juan. Just wanted to let you know that while the hotel is lovely, it's really close to the airport but also in the middle of nowhere. We kept hearing the planes overhead and unless you wanted to eat at the overpriced hotel restuarant there was no other place to eat that was within walking distance. but the price was right.

KC Summers: Maybe I should elaborate. If you're looking for a safe, clean, affordable hotel on the beach that's near the airport, and you like to gamble and dance on site, the CBMIV's the place for you. If you're looking for someplace close to the cultural attractions, shopping, restaurants and nightlife of Old San Juan, look somewhere else.

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Tell me if I'm beyond hope: Holiday help

We just decided that schedules would let us do a little travel just after Christmas> WE had talked about somewhere warm, but had been leaning towards something Old World Europe, but just got told that some of our proposed destinations would be empty the week after Christmas.

Also, with hope yesterday I looked through the travel section, hoping for a deal, but clearly all the deal block out the week after Christmas.

Have we entirely missed the boat for Holiday travel?

Cindy Loose: It's going to be tough, no doubt about it. The toughest part will be reasonably priced airfares. If I were you I'd consider:

1. Contacting a travel agent and asking what your options might be. Are you willing to travel on Christmas Day, which could turn up a reasonably priced air fare or package?

2. Think of 10 places you'd love to go, then plug them one by one into an internet site to see if one happens to pop up with an appealing price.

3. Consider something within driving distance.

No way should you have to stay home! Worst comes to worst, have a wonderful weekend in NYC, or a resort like Nemacolin.

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John Deiner: Okay, guys, that ends another journey with the Flight Crew. As always, y'all rocked.

Let's throw the slippers and that most stylish T-shirt to Arlington, who had two suits made and then regretted the decision. Send your name/address to travel@washpost.com, and thank you all for the great submissions.

Look for us next week, gang, same bat channel, same bat time.

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