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Kim O'Donnel
Special to washingtonpost.com
Tuesday, November 22, 2005; 12:00 PM

Calling all foodies! Join us for another edition of What's Cooking , our live online culinary hour with Kim O'Donnel .

A graduate of Peter Kump's New York Cooking School, Kim spends much of her time in front of the stove or with her nose in a cookbook.

Catch up on previous transcripts with the What's Cooking archive page .

Listen to Kim's most recent cooking segment on WTOP radio.

The transcript follows .

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Kim O'Donnel: My fridge is filled to the gills. A ten point six pounder is waiting for its brine bath. A pumpkin tofu pie has become this morning's breakfast. Pears await the oven and heavenly fruit crispdom. We're really down to the nitty gritty, folks. So tell me, how are you holding up? I suspect some of us haven't even gotten started. For you chronic procrastinators, I'll be on XM radio tomorrow, Wed. Nov 23 at 10:30 am, with ways to still put it all off even at the 11th hour. The channel is XM155, on a new channel called Take 5. Satellite radio listeners, hope you'll join me. Plus, I'll update my blog, Seasoned Greetings throughout the week, even on Thanksgiving Day. Check in if you're in a crunch. So, let's go. By the looks of the queue, I see you have a lot on your minds...

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Falls Church, Va.: Just want to say that I love you and thank you for your fabulous Thanksgiving for 10 recipes. The brined turkey was delicious for the past 2-3 years and this time I have made your soup and so far it is delicious.Must leave before your show but wanted to say this for you and your fans.

Kim O'Donnel: I love you, too, honey. Be home at seven, tonight, ok?

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Oyster dressing recipe?: Lim,

I searched previous chats (wish there was an east way to do that), and didn't find an oyster dressing recipe. Do you have a favorite, or can you (or your loyal readers) share a source for one? Thanks, have a great T'day!

Kim O'Donnel: I personally don't have one up my sleeve. But a story on a NOLA Thanksgiving from this Sunday's Food section includes a recipe for oysters bienville , which looks intriguing. And by the way, I only let people call me "Lim" on Fridays. Who else has ideas for oyster dressing???

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Stow, Massachusetts: Hi; I'm glad I have someone to ask!

I am responsible for mashed potatoes on Thanksgiving. There will be 30 +/- (more likely plus)people at dinner and I must take them from my home to another.

How can I keep my mashed potatoes hot for a 45 minute drive?

Any help would be appreciated.

Dee Sullivan

PS: I really like the sound of your mashed potatoes with the sour cream but I'm afraid to try something new on a holiday!

Kim O'Donnel: Hey Dee, mashed for 30 is quite an undertaking. You should estimate, well, one potato per person. Do you have an arsenal big enough for the job? You're gonna need to boil'em up in a couple pots. I might also mash in batches. Bottom line: Unless you have one of those roving food carts, you're not going to be able to keep them "hot" for 45 minutes in the car. Any chance you can warm those babies up when you arrive at dinner destination? I'm a fan of mashed w/buttermilk, but sour cream idea probably didn't come from me...oh, maybe the paper. Yes, the Food section has a recipe in last week's issue.

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Miso Hungry: Ever post that picture of you showing where exactly to take the bird's temperature?

Kim O'Donnel: Yes! Go to my blog. It's in today's entry. Road signs and everything...

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim, Please please please help me ... I'm hosting my first Thanksgiving this year and am very nervous. I bought a frozen turkey (15 pounds) and took it out of freezer on Sunday morning to thaw it in the fridge. It seems to me that it is still completely frozen! Could this be the case after 48 hours?

Kim O'Donnel: Estimate 24 hours for every 4-5 pounds. This means as this morning, your turkey would only be about halfway thawed. Hang in there. By tomorrow, you should see a difference.

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Takoma Park, Md.: Our turkey is too big for the commercial brining bags on the market Do you have any suggestions?

Kim O'Donnel: I use a big ole pot. I have something like a 15-quart pot that I bought at a Latino grocery a few years back. You could also try one of the Rubbermaid containers, but for food purposes only.

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New York, NY: Hi Kim,

Thanks for all your great Thanksgiving help. My question: I usually make a pecan pie (or two), following the standard, old, very easy recipe on the Karo syrup bottle. But I've never made my own crust, and I want to try. (I usually just get the frozen kind from the supermarket.) Would the recipe for the cream cheese crust that appeared in the Food section work for this? Would I need to pre-bake it? I also watched your apple pie/crust video, what about that one, would I prebake and also halve the recipe because pecan pie doesn't have a top? What do you think I should do? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Sure the cream cheese crust would work. Rich result. Consider that against the fat in the nuts. I just looked at recipe and it indicates to pre-bake, so take a look yourself for details. And yes, you could use plain pie dough for pecan pie...and yes you'd "blind bake"...I wouldn't halve recipe, just use half and freeze for later use. Which dough to use is personal preference...I think both would work out, tho.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Hey Kim, I wanted to share a different way that I do sweet potatoes. I used to do this in the summer, but it could be adjusted for inside too: Cut sweet potato into thin round disks, toss with peanut oil, salt and coriander. Grill on grill while cooking your meat, flipping once so each side gets browned. Using the coriander really brings out the fruitiness of the potato, but doesn't make it extra sweet, and the peanut oil gives is a nice toastiness. You might even be able to mash them with the same seasonings. Just a little somethin' different. . .

Kim O'Donnel: Excellent. If it's not snowing on Thanksgiving, this would be a swell way to do up those sweets...

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Connecticut: Hi Kim,

What's the best way to transport pies on the plane? Is this a bad idea?

Kim O'Donnel: I say tie them to your head a la Carmen Miranda and dance your way through security. Foil those pies up, real well. A little cushion inbetween pies if you're stacking them in a shopping bag. Um, don't put those pies in your suitcase...

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Washington, D..C: Just one comment regarding vegetarian/vegan Thanksgiving. Please, please enough with the tofurkey and other freaky foods. You don't have to serve fake meat. I hosted a small pre-T-giving gathering this weekend, served acorn squashes stuffed with a blend of wild rice, cranberries, hazelnuts and herbs (recipe on Epicurious) and even the meat eaters were happy!

Kim O'Donnel: Hey, hey, hey. Just because you don't like the idea of "faux" turkey doesn't mean it's freaky. I am of the same school that a vegetarian or vegan thanksgiving need not include meat facsimilies, but easy over there. Remember, your idea of great food is different from the next cook, and on and on. Diversity, baby. It's what makes the lazy susan go 'round.

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20906: Mashed potatoes: I use sour cream all the time -- just use a little less milk/cream. As for the transport -- maybe she could put them in a cooler with something else hot (hot wet towel wrapped in plastic or tupperware bowl full of hot water?)

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for chiming in. A cooler, yes. And i guess now there are "hot" insulated food transport gizmos...

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Bethesda, Md.: I've ordered a Heritage turkey but I'm outsourcing everything else (Whole Foods' sides, gravy, and stuffing). If I cook the turkey using the high-roast method, can I stuff the turkey with pre-cooked stuffing? I know you're not supposed to do so with uncooked stuffing but do these rules apply with stuffing that is already cooked? Or would doing so overcook the stuffing?

Thanks and have a great Thanksgiving!

Kim O'Donnel: Are you really set on stuffing the turkey? I often find it not worth the time to stuff, as only a fraction fits inside the bird and you gotta heat up the remainder separately anyway. That said, I don't think you'll overcook the stuffing.

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Re pies on the plane: On a trip to Virginia Beach, I carried a cake as one of my carry-on's in a 13 by 19 (or whatever the standard size is). It was open seating and I got to sit in the emergency aisle, so there was a little more room. It fit nicely under the seat in front of me. I had it still in the pan with Saran and foil wrap on it and carried it in a shopping bag (a tight fit, but it worked).

Kim O'Donnel: Most excellent. I'm sure our pie-toting reader in Connecticut is now feeling loved and supported.

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Oyster stuffing: There's a recipe on FoodNetwork.com.. southern style oyster stuffing from Paula Dean!

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks pal. And here's more...

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Oyster stuffing: A friend made great oyster stuffing once. He just used a normal stuffing recipe, but add some oysters to the sauteing onions and celery before combining with the croutons. Simple but it was delicious!

Kim O'Donnel: But were the oysters sauteed? Details please!

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Hillcrest, Washington, D.C.: We're cooking two 10 lb. turkeys (we're brining, didn't have space to submerge a 20 lb. bird). Do they cook as long as a 20 lb. bird? Or cooking time is the same as a 10 lb. bird? Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: So you want to roast both birdies simultaneously? Do you have oven space or a pan that large? Talk to me. If the answer is yes, you need to take each bird's internal temp. as it were by itself. You do have a thermometer, right??

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Arlington, Va.: I don't really have a question, more of an update. I submitted a question last week about baking using pure cacao sticks from the Philippines. Well, it turns out that it doesn't melt smoothly like unsweetened chocolate. But all was not lost -- It worked great in a recipe that called for cocoa powder and melted butter. I added chunks of the pure cacao to the melted butter and they disolved into a cocoa/butter mix. The cake was fantastic.

Kim O'Donnel: Hey Arlington, thanks for your update, in the midst of Tgiving prep. When you added butter, did you taste it? I'm sure it needed sugar!

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Sausage stuffing : Hi Kim, Please oh please answer my question ... I need to make a sausage stuffing (out of the bird) and I'd like suggestions for add-ins -- cornbread, sausage ... then what? Apples? Rosemary? I need to wow my guests with this dish. Thanks ever so!

Kim O'Donnel: Apples and rosemary are great ideas. What about some fennel? celery, sage, onions.

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Columbia, Md.: For the person transporting hot food. There is a cooler/heater available at Target and Walmart. They are fairly reasonable and keep hot food warm and cold foods cool. My friends and I do alot of get togethers and I prefer not to have to worry about reheating my choice or whether an item will be kept chilled correctly. I use mine all the time.

Kim O'Donnel: Fantastic. This sounds like just the thing for 30 POUNDS OF MASHED POTATOES.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim,

I will be cooking for myself on Thanksgiving and wanted to get some advice. I don't eat turkey so I was planning to do something with a butternut squash I bought. I was thinking of roasting it with some sweet potatoes, but not sure what spices to add. I also have a bag of lentils and want to cook those up, but not sure what to do with them. I don't want to do anything that requires meat products. Any ideas would be most appreciated. I also plan to buy some dessert at the store on Wednesday. Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: Cumin and coriander are really nice with both sweets and squash...I might also add some heat, in form of fresh chiles or cayenne. A chopped onion would be good too, and it will caramelize nicely in the oven. Lentils, I like simmered with onion, garlic and chiles, but also a cinnnamon stick. Spinach is great the end, plus a hearty squeeze of a lemon. Have a delicious holiday.

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Midwest: Kim -- there's 3 online chats I want to "listen" to at the same time! But I can't miss yours.

I just wanted to tell you my success last night for supper. I am great at following recipes but not so great at making them up. But I didn't have anything planned, so I got a chicken out of the freezer (organic, we raise them) and pressure cooked it. Then I took the meat off the bone, put the meat in a saucepan with the chicken stock and added some zesty garlic chicken bouillon cubes and some chicken-tomato bouillon. I added liberal amounts of garlic pepper and served it over jasmine rice. Yum!

If you would say you're proud of me, it would just make my day!!

Kim O'Donnel: I am SO proud of you, dear. Anytime a reader shares a kitchen report, it truly makes me heart sing. Now what about the salt quotient thought? Was it okay in the end? Next time, add some spinach or kale at the end. Don't forget to eat your vegetables!

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim!

I have a substitution question. I found a recipe for Pumpkin Creme Brulee, which I'm very excited about making for an upcoming seasonal dinner party.

The recipe calls for "2 vanilla beans (split)." I'm not sure what that means, and it sounds like it could be a hassle. Can I just substitute vanilla bean extract? Any idea how much I would need? I may end up cutting the recipe in half (as it serves 14).

Kim O'Donnel: Hey there, a vanilla bean has loads more vanilla power than a spoonful of extract, no doubt. Splitting means simply using a paring knife and cutting it in half, lengthwise and scraping the good beany stuff into your dish for the flava. To me, the caveat with vanilla beans is expense. They're not cheap.

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Re: Solo T-giving: I've used this recipe for butternut squash stuffing (it assumes milk products are ok) to great success:

Cut squash in half, seed and roast cut side down 30' or until soft all the way through on teh inside when poked with a fork.

Saute small white onion in butter, add small granny smith apple. When soft, but not mushy, mix in a bowl with cottage cheese, bread crumbs, a little salt, allspice, nutmeg and herbs of choice.

Turn squash upright, fill cavities with stuffing, top with a little bit of very sharp shredded white cheddar, bake until the cheese is bubbling.

Kim O'Donnel: Very nice of you to chime in. I also might try gruyere, as it works beautifully with both apples and squash. Cheers.

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re: Warm Tators: How about making them and putting them in a huge crock pot and warm them at home (on low) for an hour then unplug and take with you (they'll stay slightly warm on the 45 min ride) then plug in and put back on warm...not sure if this will help, just a thought.

Gobble, Gobble!

Kim O'Donnel: The roving mashed potatoes ideas are swirling in...

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Cabin John, Md: For the person trying to take mashed potatoes. If you take an old brick from your yard and put it in 500 degree oven for 25 minutes and then wrap it in a wet towel, either using a cooler or some other type of box, the potatoes will arrive hot and yummy. For others a hot brick in a cooler will stay for almost a whole day, keeping things pretty steamy.

Kim O'Donnel: This idea deserves a prize...

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Oakland, CA: Re the high heat/stuffed heritage bird question: don't stuff it! Everything I've read about the high heat cooking method says to roast it unstuffed, because you need the heat to be able to come in the middle of the bird and cook from the inside out as well.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks Oakland. You're a pal.

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Heading to the beach ....: ...just wanted to say we're heading to the beach and plan to make a turkey breast w/all the trimmings but scaled way back since it's only for 4 of us. As a regular reader, I want to wish everyone a Happy Thanksgiving. These chats are yummy!

Kim O'Donnel: And thank you for reminding us that Thanksgiving can be most festive even when simplified. I'm all for that.

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Pies on plane: What flight are you on? Maybe I'm sitting next to you and can make sure those pies taste all right!

Kim O'Donnel: Hello, Connecticut? Maybe you two can swap pie stories...

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Sausage stuffing: Sausage, Braeburn apples, chopped walnuts, celery, sage, rosemary and dried cranberries make for a wonderful stuffing!

Kim O'Donnel: Yep, sounds wonderful. I love the idea of walnuts and dried crans...

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Frederick, Md.: Hot mashed potatoes: I don't recall if I read the hint here, but it sounds like a good one ... prepare mashed potatoes completely. Put in crockpot(s)with a lid on low heat, after adding a thin coating of milk or cream to cover the top of the potatoes to keep from drying out. Stir everything up again when ready to serve. Supposedly you can keep the 'taters hot for quite a while using this method. I'm assuming the crockpot heat will be above the "danger zone" but you may want to check before trying this. Happy T-Day to all.

Kim O'Donnel: Another idea for keeping the taters hot in the car...

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Oysters: This isn't technically a dressing, but it's our traditional Thanksgiving oyster dish-

1 pint (or more) oysters

2 c medium-coarse cracker crumbs

1/2 c butter, melted

3/4 c light cream

1/2 t salt

1/4 t worchestershire sauce

drain oysters, reserve 1/4 c liquid

combine crumbs and butter, spread 1/3 of them in 8X8 pan, cover with 1/2 of oysters, sprinkle with pepper

add 1/3 crumbs, rest of oysters

combine cream, oyster liquid, salt & worchest. sauce, pour over top and top with remaining crumbs

bake at 350 for about 40 minutes (serves about 4)

Yummy!

Happy Thanksgiving from St. Louis, MO

Kim O'Donnel: Excellent. Thanks for sharing, St. Lou.

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Ann Arbor, MI: Kim--

You're a gem for helping so many of us through this when I am certain that this is an especially hectic time for you as well.

Just wanted to share an idea I have for pie transportation. I make the pies every year because I inherited Gramdma's gift of making flaky pie crusts (COLD fat and please don't knead!). I have to schlepp five pies 60 miles in my car, over some of the worse roads in the state.

Well, I'm baking tomorrow night and as soon as everyone is well-cooled, they're getting wrapped nicely in foil, plastic, and/or waxed paper. I'm placing two pumpkin pies in the bottom compartment of my carry-on suitcase, and then surrounding them with towels so they can't move. Then carefully zipping them in. The then-upper chamber of the suitcase will house the two apple pies, also surrounded by towels, carefully zipped in.

I will have to carry the suitcase down to the car, flat, of course, but it will lay in the trunk next to the cooler and other things I'm bringing. The trick is to have nothing move via intertia. My boyfriend will hold the pecan pie in his lap. (On the way to fetching the boyfriend, the pecan pie goes on the FLOOR with NOTHING on the seat above it.)

Happy Thanksgiving, Kim -- We're thankful for YOU!

Kim O'Donnel: Sounds like you've got the pie transport under control Ann Arbor. The feeling is mutual, by the way.

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Sweet Potatoes: Kim - I'm in charge of sweet potatoes for Thanksgiving for about 30 people. There's lots of sides, should I assume that I just need to make enough for say, 15?

And what's your take on marshmallows? I've always been snobby about them on sweet taters, but Cook's Illustrated has a recipe so can they be that pedestrian?

I did make mashed sweet potatoes, from Food TV, I think, and they were devine. What kind of sweet potatoes are you making?

Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: My goodness, such big parties you guys are handling! You're braver than I am! Oh boy, how to handle the numbers...how many kids are there? That helps in your estimation. Also, do you have any sweet potato haters? Another consideration. As for snobby on the marshmallowed sweets: Well, I don't think I'm a snob if I don't like CANDY on my sweet potatoes, which are so lovely all on their own. I do not have sweet potato duty, but if I were, I'd probably add pecans to mine, with garlic and chiles. I like me a savory sweet. I also recently mentioned success with curried onions and sweets...

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Washington, DC: On BRINING: I bought a butterball frozen turkey that contains a 7% solution of water, salt, corn starch, etc. This means I should NOT brine it, correct? Thanks for verifying!

Kim O'Donnel: Affirmative on the NO BRINE.

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oysters: They were sauteed for a couple minutes w/the sauteed veggies (just added the oysters at the end). Then mixed it all in with the croutons. But it imparted some of the oyster flavor with the butter which soaked in and made all of it oysterlicious.

Kim O'Donnel: Excellent. Thanks for following up.

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Fried Oysters : A heated debate in my family is whether to coat them with cornmeal or flour. What do you or your followers think?

Kim O'Donnel: Hmm... I think this could start a very interesting conversation. Unfortunately the hour is almost up. Let's ask this question next week, after all the Tgiving feasting is history.

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Alexandria, Va.: Hi Kim,I'm making two pies and a cake to take to my mom's house for Thanksgiving. I'm taking a 1/2 day tomorrow, but fear I won't get it all done. I'm thinking of making one of the items tonight and the other two tomorrow. My question is which would hold up best for two days if I make it tonight? I'm making a standard apple pie, a vegan chocolate cake and a chocolate bourbon chess pie. I'm thinking the chess pie might hold up best for the extra day. What do you think? Also, how should I store it, in the fridge? Thanks for the help!

Kim O'Donnel: Make the cake tonight. Let cool and wrap it very well, in plastic, and then put in freezer. Take it out of freeze tomorrow night. PIes make tomorrow. Fridge is best for pie storage.

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Bethesda Mom: Kim:

If I want to make a frittata as a light supper after a heavy Thanksgiving lunch, how many eggs should I use for 10 people? Should I mix shredded cheese into the raw eggs before cooking, or sprinkle it on top before putting pan under broiler?

Thanks and have a great holiday!

Kim O'Donnel: Estimate 1 egg per person. Sprinkle cheese on top at end. You're so smart, you already know the answers Mom! Enjoy.

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Kicked up turkey needed!: Hi Kim!

I posted on your blog, but I think on the wrong day -- anyhow, I was wondering if you had any ideas for a turkey treatment w/a kick, I'm open to any ideas. I think it would be a nice complement to the sweetness of the vanilla sweet potato puree I'm gonna make(F and W December issue -- excellent!)and to the cranberries and such. Any thoughts? Could I do a mixture of ground ancho and chipotle chile to make a rub or what?

Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Ah yes, I've been meaning to get back to you, Tucson. A spice rub is a neat idea. I have slathered pork chops in chipotles but have never tackled a big beast such as a turkey in this manner. Another fun idea is to do a jerk thing. You could even buy jerk paste. It's spicy, it's full of flavor, and it would work. Bubba Browne's and Walkerwood are good brands.

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Sweet Potato Cassarole: Jack Daniels. Definitely Jack Daniels in the mix. Pecans on top.

Kim O'Donnel: Sounds positively bambooloozy...I'm in.

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Washington, DC: What a blessing this web site is and what great ideas you have - sweet potatoes with pecans and garlic and chilis - can't wait to do that!!

Holiday blessings to all.

Kim O'Donnel: And what a perfect note on which to end this show...I didn't get to say this earlier, but I am so thankful for many things, good friends and strong teeth among them...but I am very thankful for you. Go on with your bad selves, you've got work to do! Have a most delicious Thanksgiving. Can't wait to hear all about it next week. In meantime, check the blog and holler at me in e-mail if you need to. Peace.

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