Talk About Travel

High airfares to Europe, Malta, hotels.com, honeymoon options, cheap eats in Reykjavik and more.

The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.

We know you have a choice in online travel forums, and speaking for theentire Flight Crew, we want to thank you for flying with us.

You may also browse an archive of previous live travel discussions.

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KC Summers: Well good afternoon, travel fiends, and welcome to today's chat. Our special guest today is Daniela Deane of The Post's Continuous News desk (that means she works for the print edition and the Web site both). Daniela spent a glorious week last month exploring the area around Turin, Italy, in a pre-Olympics romp. If you saw her blog (accessible through the Travel home page) or the story in yesterday's section about a neat restaurant in Alba she discovered, here's your chance to pummel her with questions. Daniela's Italian, so just imagine her gesturing wildly when she responds to your questions.

Today's prize, for the chatter who makes Daniela gesture most wildly: a book about 50 romantic getaways in the U.S. Southwest.

And we're off...

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Vienna, Va.: What's the latest buzz on the South Seas Resort on Captiva? Will it be opening this spring or not?

We were thinking of going to either Captiva or Sanibel in April.

Cindy Loose: Plan away---South Seas Resort is slated to open March 14. you can look em up at www.south-seas-resort.com.

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Washington, DC: I'm going to Buenos Aires later this year and would like to stay in a short-term rental apartment instead of a hotel. Do you know of any reliable rental agencies or travel agents who could help with this? Thanks.

Cindy Loose: We don't know here---can someone out there help?

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Washington, DC: New to this chat, so maybe this is a repeat question, but I was wondering if you had any tips as to where to find cheaper airfare (under $800ish)to Germany for the World Cup in June/July? I've been looking a bit and the prices are outrageous...

Thanks!

Carol Sottili: I am amazed at how high airfares are to Europe this summer. Usually, it's cheaper to fly into London and then take a discount carrier. But this year, the cheapest fares to London are more than $900. As I said last week, I am holding out hope that sales will start next month. I've talked to a couple of travel agents who say that seats are going begging, and if this is the case, airlines will need to fill those seats at some point. In your situation, because you are headed to a very popular event, I wouldn't count on a sale.

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Chicago, Ill.: We are spending the last 3 days of March in Paris. It will be our first visit and wish to see all of the sights and sounds. I have been told that visiting Versailles may not be worth the time and effort at this time of the year. (More spectacular in Spring and Summer.) What is your opinion?

Gary Lee: Unless it's raining or the weather is otherwise bad, I would say go to Versaille. It's true that the gardens are half of the attraction there. But the bloom should have started by late March and you can take a walk out there. In any case, the interiors are spectacular all year round and they have excellent guides. I highly recommend taking a guided tour.

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Washington, DC: Love the chats! Hoping for a little chinatown bus input. I plan to take the $35 r/t bus to New York this weeknend (Fri/sun) to catch a couple of shows. In the past I've only taken Washington Deluxe which i was satisfied with but they don't have any buses leaving when i want to leave (around 5-7 pm) so I'll have to take another bus. Anybody have experience with Vamoose, Eastern, Todays or Dragon that could steer me towards or away from one of these operators (I don't need a movie ... just clean, non-rickety buses). Thanks!

Anne McDonough: I've used all of them--just went up with Dragon Coach and came back on Washington Deluxe this weekend, actually (lost out on the roundtrip $5 discount that way but got to leave at the time of my choosing)--and have found that it's always a crapshoot but there's not one company I wouldn't take. Each company uses multiple coaches, so one may be a bit more cramped than another, within the same company, for example. I'd say go with the bus that gets you in and out at the times that work for you.

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Malta?: My husband and I are considering Malta as a possible vacation spot. We like ruins and beaches and it seems to offer a terrific combination.

Have any of you been there? Or any members of the audience? We were thinking of staying near St. Julian Bay and just taking the (seemingly extensive) bus round the island.

Thanks!

John Deiner: Ah, Malta. It's a lovely spot in the Mediterranean but you should know that it's not known at all for its beaches...it's mostly surrounded by rock. There are a few decent beaches, though. Go to www.visitmalta.com for a great interactive map that details where the beaches are. In Valetta and the area towns, there is a lot of access to the water via stairways, where locals sit out on the rocks next to deep natural pools.

I'm a huge fan of the bus system there--it IS extensive, though the buses are pretty old and bumpy. Still, for not a lot of money you can get anywhere you want on the island, and part of the adventure is using those buses. (I should note that some folks in past chats have really hated those things.)

As far as ruins go, you can't get much more ruinous than the lovingly maintained sites on Malta and Gozo, its neighboring island.

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Alexandria, Va.: Submitting early as I will be in a meeting - Going to Bologna and Florence first week of March. There are very few guidebooks available on Bologna and I was wondering if you had any tips for hotel or restaurants or both? Thanks in advance.

Cindy Loose: I've been thinking of a Bologna trip myself, and happen to have on my desk a nice packet of info provided by the Bologna Province Tourist Office and the Bologna Convention and Visitor's Bureau. I also talked with a D.C. travel agent who knows the area well and who highly recommends some of the small towns in the province. (I found her by going to travelsense.org, clicking find a travel agent, and typing in that I wanted one who spoke Italian.)

At any rate, I'd start with contacting the tourism office--www.provincia.bologna.it. and emailing the convention bureau for brochures at societabolognaturismo@comune.bologna.it.

Meanwhile, anyone out there have favorite hotels or restaurants in Bologna? Given it's the birthplace of all the stuffed pastas, and nearby Parma is famed for parma ham and parmasan cheese, I get the feeling that great meals abound.

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Flying to Scotland: Hi Flight Crew!

Your tips have helped me many times - thanks for these informative chats! Want to find the most inexpensive way to Glasgow this Spring. Is it worth the hassle to try to fly to Heathrow then fly to Glasgow using a low-cost airline like Ryanair? Any thoughts on alternatives to paying about $700 rt from DC to Glasgow? Thanks!

Carol Sottili: I don't think you're going to save money by going to London first, but it's easy enough to price out online. I think it's only about $100 more round trip to go into Glasgow instead of London from Washington. Spring fares to London are about $600 round trip. Even if you can save money by going on Ryanair from London to Glasgow, you're going to have to get from Heathrow to one of the other London airports, which is a pain.

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Turin-Bound: Daniela, What's your impression of how American tourists are/will be received in Italy for the Olympics?

Daniela Deane: In my experience, Italians generally like Americans...and since Torino has never had that many tourists, Americans or otherwise, I get the feeling they would very much welcome them...Italians are a friendly bunch overall, aren't they? People may get a bit stressed during the Olympics, but in general, they want more tourism, that's for sure...and there's a lot of beauty in the Piedmont.

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Washington DC: Just wondering how confident you feel about booking hotels internationally via hotels.com. I've done it in the US before without problems, but knew in the back of my mind that in the worst case scenario I could find alternate lodgings fairly easily. I'm planning a vacation to Portugal this August, and have found good rates at a couple of lovely properties. I wouldn't want to be at loose ends in a foreign country, though, if there was some kind of mix up with my reservation. How reliable is hotels.com for booking you accurately at the correct property, dates, rates, etc? How is the customer service with hotels.com if there is some kind of problem? What protections from the credit card company would I have--if I book now, the charge appears, I pay the bill, but then in Aug. something happens to my reservation? Thanks for any insights you may be able to provide.

Gary Lee: You are right to ask about this. Some customers have complained that when they book through hotels.com, the room is not available when they arrive. That's doubly unsettling if you're in a foreign country. What has worked for me is that if you find a good rate, go ahead and book through hotels.com (You should also shop at other sites. Kayak.com offers access to a number of other on-line hotel bookin agencies.)

Whoever you book with, send an e-mail or fax to the hotel before your arrival to confirm that they have your reservation. Be sure to get a confirmation number from them.

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For Daniela: I lived in northern Italy (near Genoa) for a year and loved it -- people, scenery, attitude. Very different from stereotypical Italian culture. That said, can you recommend any great Piemontese wine for me to drink while watching Olympic coverage?

Daniela Deane: Yes! Barolo! Barolo had some great vintages from 96-2001...Cin cin!! (that's Italian for cheers!)

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Honeymoon Help Needed!: Crew: I read your chats a lot. In fact, I'm a bit af a travel nut - when I can't be on vacation I obsessively read about and plan for future trips. Herein lies the problem: I'm on infromation overload and I can't narrow the choices. I know that I want to go to lay on the beach somewhere in the Caribbean or Mexico, want to be able to go out to nice dinners, and want to stay in a posh resort. Can you lay down one island that you'd recommend with the following things: good dining, nice resorts, and beautiful beaches? I'm looking to stay within $4k for flight/hotel, but not food. Thanks so much - I'm on quite a deadline!

KC Summers: That's a nice budget you've got there, HH. But what a great reason to splurge. Now, if it were me I'd head to Barbados and stay at Sandy Lane. Beautiful beaches, fantastic resort, lots of restaurants to choose from. But that's just my current favorite -- there are luxury places on just about every island, even the most laid-back. You might also consider St. John, which has the Rockefeller resort Caneel Bay, and just an amazing array of gourmet restaurants. And of course world-class beaches and snorkeling.

Who else has honeymoon recommendations for HH?

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Fred'Burg, Va: Hi Travel Crew. My parents 50th anniversary is coming up in June and we would like to send them on an Alaskan cruise in July or August of '06 as a gift. Question: where do we begin?? We are thinking of a 7 day cruise. Any thoughts on cruise lines? Itineraries? The cruise lines site are not very helpful. Any one out there ever taken a cruise to Alaska and can you provide any guidance? Thanks!

John Deiner: Hey, Fred. Have you considered the Queen Elizabeth 2 or the Queen Mary 2? The latter, in particular, is perfect for a 50th-annivesary celebration -- its clientele definitely skews toward the older set, and its got the facilities to match: very classy cabins, public spaces, a pricey spa and a ballroom that will keep Mom and Dad spinning around the dance floor for days. There's a Todd English restaurant on board for a special nite out -- it's worth the $30 extra per person to eat there. Evidently, the transatlantic cruises are much more elegant than the ship's Caribbean runs, so I'd opt for that for such a special occassion.

Any other thoughts out there?

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Help!: First-time European traveler getting ready to leave for Ireland in a couple weeks. I'd like to take some electronics with me - my cell phone (which is supposed to work over there), my IPod, etc. Any idea if European cars are compatible with the typical American cigarette-lighter electrical adapters?

Steve Hendrix: In my experience, all cars have the same 12-volt cig lighter socket. Unless you end up renting an old Russian Lada, you'll be fine. Probably you'll get a Ford.

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Italy!: Hi Daniela,

If someone asked you the top 3 things to see or do, to get a real flavor of the area and the culture, what would they be, and why?

Thanks for joining us today!

Daniela Deane: Stroll the covered porticos in Torino or in any other Piemontese town in the afternoon and stop and have a bicerin (layered espresso, chocolate and cream) at one of the beautiful historic coffee bars in the city. Or even just a hot chocolate will do...The Langhe area -- the area I wrote about yesterday -- is also very beautiful, although winter isn't the best time to visit. There are castles to see, Barolo and Barbaresco to drink and hearty risottos to eat...Oh, and the winter sales are still on too! (Torino for that, definitely...)

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Washington, DC: Is there a good site for comparing ski packages? I want to ski out west for about 4-5 days in March and haven't found any prices that look reasonable to me in Expedia, etc. I'm looking for airfare and hotel, I guess.

Carol Sottili: I don't know that I'd bother with a package. Your best bet is to look at airfare sales, and figure out which place is cheapest. It's usually Salt Lake City or Denver. And then you can look for cheap hotels from there. In Utah, go to www.skiutah.com. In Colorado, www.colorado.com. Another option is to go on one of the local ski club trips. They usually have very good prices, plus the company is fun. Go to www.skicouncil.com for a list of clubs/trips.

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Washington DC:

In your fine article on Torino, the reporter starts off by asking everyone to use Torino, not Turin. However, the caption to the photo on the cover page, the running lead on the inside page, and the side-box with travel details, all use "Turin." How did that happen? Did the editors silently disagree with the reporter?

Daniela Deane: I'm afraid this is all my fault....I just like Torino so much better than Turin (it's all those vowels...Turin feels so hard-edged, doesn't it?) ... The paper's policy is to call it Turin, but K.C. let me go with Torino. But then this is what happens, I guess....Who likes Torino instead of Turin? Here's a question: Did Italians call it Salt Lake City when we hosted the Olympics? Or Citta del Lago Salato??(the Italian translation)...

KC Summers: Yes, I let Daniela have her way -- she's just so persuasive -- but the copy editor and caption writer were just following Post rules. And sure enough, an eagle-eyed reader caught us out. We should have addressed the discrepancy in the caption. Next time!

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Stafford, Va.: Hi, Travel Crew!

I'm looking to visit the emerald isle and reconnect with the family roots. I'm looking at staying at a variety of bed and breakfasts but was wondering how doable it is to drive from Shannon to Dublin and back in 5 days. Do you or the other chatters have any thoughts? Thanks!

Cindy Loose: According to Michelin's handy-dandy European equivalent to mapquest.com, the trip from Shannon to Dublin is 219 km,including 64 km on motorways--i.e. highways. They estimate the trip will take 2 hours and 49 minutes. You can get detailed directions at www.viamichelin.com. Just be sure you're comfortable with that alternate side driving. Even if you've done it before, I'd highly suggest driving around easily negotiated territory until the alternate side feels natural before hitting the traffic.

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Daniela: Any very-recent security upgrades due to the Danish cartoon and the violent protests in many other countries?

Daniela Deane: Not that I noticed when I was there two weeks ago... week...BUT...there are certainly lots of police around and the Italians are worried about potential attacks during the Games. Turin's new Metro just opened too, which they're afraid could also become a target...When I was there, though, the cartoon story hadn't broken yet. In this age, there's always these concerns now, aren't there?

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For Bologna:: Bologna is a city made for foodies - take me with you!! If

there is one restaurant I could recommend above all

others, it is Trattoria Pietro, between the train station and

the center of town. It is run by a Bolognese family, who

couldn't be nicer and cook terrific regional dishes,

including a fantastic pumpkin ravioli, which I sampled this

past fall. They also have a pasta dish shaped like little

candies (caramelle - sp?) with asparagus, prosciutto and

cheese sauce - heaven on a plate. My brother and I took

refuge there in a snowstorm when the airport closed, and

even though we were dripping weight with tons of

luggage, they made space for us among the families out

for Saturday lunch. Go, go, go!

Cindy Loose: Take me too! Thanks for the tip---maybe I'll get to try it too.

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Arkansas, Missouri, Oklahoma, Tennessee...: Hi Crew!

Spring will be springing forth soon, and I'm going to be in parts south of the midwest. Have car, feeling like it's time to explore a new part of the country. So what should I see or do? I'll be based in southern MO/northern AR, but have a friendly little car. Prefer mostly day trips, tho the kitties can handle being on their own for a night or two.

What are the best/coolest/most unusual/spectacular things to do in this part of the country? I wanna see what makes this region distinctive and interesting.

It's a wide territory, but that's because I'm so broadminded....

Thanks for any help you and the chatters can provide.

Gary Lee: I can't vouch for the other three states but can tell you that my home state of Oklahoma has one of the best preserved set of venues for exploring Native American culture and the rustic Old West. For example, Talequah, in the northeastern corner of the state, is the capitol of the Cherokee Nation and has a museum, an open air theater and other sites where Cherokee Heritage is on display. In Tulsa, the Gilcrease Museum has one of the best collections of Indian and Western Art in the country. Guthrie, once the state capitol, gives a great feel for what kinds of towns the pioneers built as they pushed West. If you go in summer you should be able to catch an Indian Pow Wow or a rodeo.

Anybody from Missouri, Tennesseee or Arkansas who can give a sense of what's there?

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Vienna, Va: Please help Travel gurus!

My mom is here and will be flying home out of Dulles. She has a hard time walking, so I am nervous about leaving her all alone to make her way to the midfield terminal and her gate. Can the airline let me walk with her? She won't use a wheel chair, but she would maybe hop on one of the little "golf carts." She is 63, but has a lot of pain when she walks. Thank you!

Carol Sottili: Here's what the airport authority says:

"According to Transportation Security Administration (TSA) security measures, only ticketed passengers or authorized personnel are allowed through security checkpoints. Special arrangements can be made with your airline for accompanying children or others needing assistance to get to the gate. Please check with your airline for details."

In my experience, there is no hard-and-fast rule on this. Some airlines/ticket agents are fairly liberal, while others are restrictive. Call your airline beforehand to find out the policy.

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Baltimore, Md: Hello,

Are there any websites out there where you can enter your round trip cities, and number of travel days and approximately when you want to go, and with just a magic mouse click you get a list of packages available? Many sites have the type of search you get on an airline page--that's not what I'm looking for. I hope I'm making myself clear.

I'm already looking for package deals (air/hotel) in September 2006 (long Labor Day holiday).

Thanks for your help!

KC Summers: The closest we can think of is Site59.com, but even that isn't exactly what you're looking for. I'm afraid your best bet is to go to a site like Go-Today.com and browse the deals, then plug in your dates and see if they work.

Anybody out there got a better suggestion?

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Washington, DC: Thinking of taking a 5 or 7 day Caribbean cruise this summer with my 2 sons -- ages 18 and 16. From the chart in Sunday's paper, it looks like Royal Caribbean would be the best option for my sons, but I still have some questions. Will my 18 yr old be able to participate in teen program for 15-17 yr olds. He's kind of a shy person, and I'm concerned whether he will meet other older teens to hang out with if he is not in a program. Also, should I get 2 cabins or would the 3 of us be ok in just one cabin? Finally, I have read on-line that the food on RC is not very good, and that the mattresses can be pretty bad. Any comments on this issues? Thanks

John Deiner: That's a good question, DC. I'm not sure what actually takes place in the teen program -- I'm guessing that if he showed up, they wouldn't ask his age. Anyone out there have any knowledge of this?

As far as two cabins go, I think you'd be fine in one, as long as the three of you get along pretty well. Some of the cabins are set up nicely with an upper bunk, and you'll save a bundle if you stick to one cabin. You'll just have to take turns in the tiny bathroom, and watch what you pack. (And for those who say "you don't spend much time in your cabin," I say "you do!" At least 6 or 7 or 8 hours a nite sleeping!)

From my own experience, I haven't had any problems with the food or mattresses on RCI, but maybe somebody out there can set me straight.

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Wheaton, Md.: This week's article about Alba reminded me of an excellent piece written by Robert Camuto a few years ago about a trip he took to Corisca. I was unable to find this article by searching the Post's web-site. Could you please provide a link to it here?

thank you.

KC Summers: Link coming right up, Wheaton. That story should be up on our site, though -- you look under France?

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RE: Glasgow Fares: Try using IcelandAir from Baltimore

Carol Sottili: It's still not cheap. It's about $615 round trip in May.

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Skiing!: we're going to Telluride for a week at teh end of March. Can you recommend a place to stay for 4-6 people? Preferably some kind of condo/house rental.

Thanks!

Steve Hendrix: ResortQuest is the big condo management agency in Telly. www.resortquest.com

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washingtonpost.com: Corsica: Where the French Go , (June 22, 2003)

KC Summers: Here you go, Wheaton.

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Falls Church, Va.:

Help, we have been discussing the possibility of a New England lighthouse/foliage trip this fall and, while locating the lighthouses is no problem, I have no idea how to determine which trees I should be looking at, nor when.

When planning a trip to see the fall colors, are there some traditional locations and routes? Or for that matter, some lesser know, just a nice routes? And how do you schedule to maximize your chance of good color viewing?

Thanks

j

Andrea Sachs: Don't worry about looking at the wrong trees; you will be engulfed in color--as well as leaf-peepers. When the weather starts to chill, the foliage forecasters come out, and you can find updates on foliage predictions and sightings on each state tourism's Web sites as well as weather Web sites. For all of New England, also check www.visitnewengland.com, which has color-coded maps, reports and suggested routes. (The tourism offices can also help you map out routes, many hidden.) As a New Englander, I prefer the foliage in the Vermont and New Hampshire mountains and along the Rhode Island shoreline -- and see it by bike or foot, not just car.

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Barbados, WI: Hi Daniela and the flight crew.

Though I won't be fortunate to get to Torino for the Olympics, I would like to go next year and see the Mole Antonelliana in person!

I have a question, is Torino the only place that you can get Giandujotti or can you purchase from anywhere in the USA?

Daniela Deane: You can buy gianduiotti lots of places, I would think...The Italian Store in Arlington comes to mind...But heck, it's not the same if you're not there, is it? You have to go see the Mole...the cinema museum there is so cool!

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Burtonsville, Md: We are headed to France at the end of the month for ten days. After picking up a friend in Rennes, we thought we'd drive down to Dordogne for some prehistoric cave art. Is that a reasonable, leisurely drive (will things be open?) or should we just hang out in Brittany? Thanks much.

Daniela, did you go see the pink bunny in Cuneo?

Daniela Deane: No, darn it! I didn't make it to Cuneo, unfortunately..Tell me about it...K.C.: Can I go back to see the Cuneo bunny??

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Bethesda, Md: I need some advice on Caribbean destinations. My very active grandmother (meaning she can spend all day sight-seeing and shopping)and I would like to treat my relatively conservative mother to a trip in the fall. I am in my mid-20s, so personally I would like to spend my time on a beach during the day and and cool hang-outs at night. Can you recommend a Caribbean island that might suit all of our personalities? (I was thinking about St. Martin.) Or do you think one of the cruise lines mentioned in this weeken's article would be more enjoyable?

Gary Lee: I'd have to know a bit more about your tastes (like how much of a party can you stand?) to give the best spot on advice, but for starters I can tell you that St. Martin has a good mix of things to do. In addition, here are some places I would check out: Aruba, St. Lucia and Puerto Rico.

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Alexandria Va.: I'm applying for jobs on the West Coast and (hopefully) will need to fly out for interviews.I've checked airfares online, and the best deals require you to buy 14 days in advance.How do I get a good deal on short notice?

And, no, my potential new employer won't pay for the flight.

Carol Sottili: If you're going to need hotel and car along with airfare, you can try www.site59.com or www.skyauction.com. You can usually get fairly short-notice fares for about $300 or so round trip to Los Angeles. Try alternative airports. Oakland instead of San Fran. Long Beach (www.jetblue.com) instead of LA.

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Arlington, Va.: re: Malta...yes there are lots of interesting ruins there. I was a little surprised at how densely populated it is there though. You can take the bus to get around and it can be a bit of an adventure for sure. There seemed to be a push underway to replace the oldest and most decrepit of the buses with nice shiny new ones, and I think that would be a welcome change, especially for the locals who rely on them. If you want to visit the Hypogeum (and you do) make sure to make your plans in advance as the number of visitors is strictly limited and you have to get your tickets well ahead. I arranged mine via email before I left and picked it up at the history/archaeology museum in Valetta. The Hypogeum, which is totally underground is also a bit hard to find as it is in the middle of a denssely populated usburb of Valetta. I suppose a taxi could take you right to it, but I was relying on an unreliable bus driver to tell me where to get off and he didn't. Luckily I had left plenty of time to get there. I really enjoyed just walking around. I had never been to the Mediterranean before so I was charmed by the basic architecture of Valetta and its surrounding area. Took a day tour to Gozo which I also enjoyed. I was there in October and it was very hot and humid. So I suggest you go during later in the fall or early springtime when it's not so hot. I can't imagine how awful it must be during the summer.

John Deiner: Great stuff, Arl. The summer heat there is legendary, so that's a wonderful suggestion. And I missed the Hypogeum because I didn't call ahead of time (dang!!). And I guess change was inevitable with those buses. Glad you enjoyed your trip!

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torino/turin: I always think it's kind of ridiculous when people call foreign cities by their foreign names. "Firenze" for example. It sounds so pretentious - and the correct English name of Florence is Florence. I appreciate that it's called Firenze in Italy, but I'm not speaking Italian. I mean, I know the correct pronunciation of Oslo, and it's -totally- cuter than the English pronunciation, but do I use it when I speak English? No. Because that would be silly.

Daniela Deane: You're probably right..I don't mean to be pretentious...It's that Italian coming through...The truth is I call it Torino...SORRY!!!

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Comment about Dulles Airport:: A few chats ago, a chat participant complained about his experience at Dulles after an international flight (ie. no baggage carts). My husband and I recently returned to Dulles from London. When we arrived at baggage claim, there was not a cart to be had. We had to carry/pull all of our suitcases - not an easy task after international travel. I've made a similar journey many times and have never been without a cart. Where have all of the carts gone, Dulles?

Steve Hendrix: I've had the same problem there myself, but I always make it harder by going out to curb and looking for a one that somebody has cast aside. This bit of money grubbing--$3 for a five minutes of push carting!--is second only to the monopoly Washington Flyer contract among Things That Annoy Me About Dulles. (Also on the list: super slow parking lot shuttles and that gruesome security line).

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Logan Circle, Washington, D.C.: Planning a trip to North Africa (Morocco) this summer. Is there any reason to be seriously concerned about bird flu issues? I have read that travel insurance wouldn't cover the cost of the trip if we decide not to go if there's an outbreak.

Andrea Sachs: I am going to Morocco in a few weeks and have not heard a peep (sorry) about bird virus concerns. So far, the country -- and continent-- has been clear of the deadly virus. To be safe, though, follow the Centers for Disease Control's guidelines (www.cdc.gov/travel/other/avian_ influenza_se_asia_2005.htm): Stay away from poultry farms and markets, avoid fowl-contaminated counters and eat only well-cooked poultry (no chicken blood for you).

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Silver Spring, Md.: O.K. Here's one for Daniela as I used to follow her real estate chats. Daniela, I'm thinking of buying a condo in Mondaco with no money down and an interest only mortgage leveraged with the time share I have in Turin. I make 20 thousand dollars a year. Good idea? (Is she gesticulating wildly?)Now seriously, I've been worried about the European air fare as well but need to be assured of seats for five on the same flight. What would be your gurus recommendation as to the latest I should wait to book.Thanks.

Daniela Deane: hahahahahhah...i'm just splitting a gut here...

KC Summers: Depends when you want to go, SS. Are you thinking summer, because if so, flights to Europe are filling up fast -- if it's important that you all five travel together, I would want to lock in that fare soon. I'd personally book by March or so.

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N. Bethesda, Md.: Daniela--if a single, American female travels to Italy, should she expect to be hassled a lot by men? I've been told this is normal--by my Italian friend! (also trying to get some gesticulation going....)

re: Alaskan cruise--did a week long cruise two years ago on Norwegian with a senior friend and we both LOVED it! They had a number of restaurants on board--from casual to formal--and I'm sure they would do something special for an occasion. It left from Seattle, which meant that we flew across and spent a day relaxing before departure (same on the other end). And Seattle is a -wonderful- town.

Daniela Deane: My opinion of all this is changing as I get older! Now, I like it when Italian men look at me! ..Seriously, Italian men do show their appreciation of women, but just use that old trick of not making eye contact and not encouraging them and they'll go away. Unless you're some sort of super-model..then they might not! (Italian women are really cute too...so, you'll have some competition!)

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Rockville, Md.: I'd like to visit England when the gardens are in bloom (one always hears about English gardens...) what's the best time and place to go?

Anne McDonough: Kent (aka the Garden of England) features more than 180 typical English gardens that are open to the public--and according to the Kent Tourism Alliance there's no off-season to see gardens there, it just depends on what kind of landscape you'd like to see (try www.kenttourism.co.uk/for more info). The National Gardens Scheme would be a good resource; they manage hundreds of private gardens and open them to the public on certain days to raise money for charity (their site isn't come up right now, but I believe it's www.ngs.org.uk). The Royal Horticultural Society also puts on shows for charity--inclduing the big names like the Chelsea Flower Show (May 23-27 this year); the show gardens there are supposed to be spectacular (www.rhs.org.uk).

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Tysons Corner, Va.: Hi, I'm looking to book a cruise in the New England/Canada area this summer for a honeymoon. Can you tell the best way to get the best deal? Thanks!

Carol Sottili: There are plenty of Web sites that offer discount cruises - www.icruise.com and www.cruise411.com are two that come to mind - although I find that the cruise lines themselves often offer cheap deals. And a local travel agent may also be able to help. I don't think you're going to have lots of choices if you're thinking July/August because few cruise lines offer this itinerary in summer. Holland America goes there from Boston.

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Washington, DC: Chinatown Bus:

Go with Vamoose! I have ridden with them twice and the ride has always been pleasant, clean, and comfortable. I thought the drivers were professional and it has the added benefit of dropping you off at Penn Station in NYC.

Anne McDonough: I like Vamoose, too--the one thing is that their tickets are $5 more than everyone else's. WHo knows how long that will stay the case, but right now they're $25 where everyone else charges $20 (some companies also have a surcharge for buying on-line). Compare them all at www.gotobus.com.

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Alexandria, Va.: I am thinking of going to Spain in the fall and could use some guidance. Generally when I go on a trip, I have some vague notion of where I want to travel and what I want to do (Scotland, Budapest, Belgium, Germany, France etc) but am at a lost for Spain. I know I should see Barcelona and Madrid and would love to see the multi-cultural buildings along the coast - but am at a lost for the rest. Any guidance of must see areas/museums etc?

Gary Lee: Again, in order to give the best advice, it would be nice to know a bit more about what thrills you when you're on the road. I would say that you don't necessarily Have to see Madrid and Barcelona. I love Madrid for its museums and restaurants. If you like art, you can spend a day in the Prado, easily. But if you're really into gourmet dining and shopping, Barcelona is your place.

Sevilla and surrounding Andulucia are great for cultural/religious heritage. And the basque country in the north is hard to surpass for well preserved town and great provincial cooking.

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Annandale, Va.: We've been on 3 Royal Caribbean cruises with relatives, but now want to go with another family over Christmas week. Together, we have 2 sets of 14 year old boys and 1 set of 11 year old boys. We want to leave out of Florida. RC seems quite pricey leaving Miami or Ft. Lauderdale. What have you heard about Carnival? What lines would you recommend to be be best for both adults and early teenagers? Would leaving from other Fla. cities save us money?

John Deiner: Hey, Annandale. I think you're going to find that any cruise leaving during Christmas week is going to cost some extra bucks. That's one of the busiest cruising weeks of the year. Carnival would be fine for the whole gang as well -- a little wilder, but nothing unseemly. Celebrity, pricier than Royal Caribbean or Carnival, is another good choice.

As far as leaving out of other Florida cities, hmmmmmm... Because of the wide variety of cruises leaving from Miami, Lauderdale and Port Canaveral (in central Florida), prices are generally lower. Also, it's cheaper to fly into Lauderdale and Orlando (gateway to Port Canaveral) than other spots.

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Alexandria, Va.: Your article of a while ago got us thinking about Apuglia. Would you suggest late August, or is that too hot? Does one require a car? Whenever we travel, we typically use the local transportation (the funky busses on Caribbean islands, etc) and really do not want to deal with a car. We really are the "go local" types who alwasy like to have a kitchen/ette when we travel so we can shop at the local markets. We love walking all over and just absorbing the country we are in. We found (via internet) an inn that lets you book a Trullo to sleep in--they have kitchens and everything and look quite lovely. Do you know anything about that? Is two weeks too long to visit? I cannot seem to find much of anything other than your story (which is a good thing, I suppose, as it means it is not crowded).

Daniela Deane: Love Puglia! The Italians love it too. My Italian cousins go there quite a bit...

KC Summers: We had a nice piece on the Puglia region last spring, link coming up shortly, hopefully will answer all your questions.

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re: Oklahoma: Oklahoma City has a fantastic new art museum which houses the largest Dale Chihuly exhibition anywhere in the world. Chihuly does blown glass e.g. Bellagio ceiling in Vegas, sculptures at the Atlantis...

Gary Lee: That's true. The museum that was made after the bombing of the federal building in OKC is also quite poignant.

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Barbados: Hi, it's me the chocolate lover again. re giandujotti. I am actually living in Barbados ( Caribbean) but get to the US East coast a lot so if anyone out there knows of a store in NY, DC or even FL, please reply! Thanks!

Daniela Deane: The Italian Store in Arlington, Virginia (right outside of D.C.) sells them...It's on Lee Highway...

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one way flights: Hey Travel Crew!

Love the chats. Quick question for you. I'm planning a

fairly circuitous route home next summer from Asia to the

States via Europe. And I keep finding that one way flights

seem to be as expensive if not more than round trip

tickets. Why is this? Do you have any suggestions for

finding cheap one way flights? I can be pretty flexible

with dates and stop over numbers.

Thanks for any ideas!

Carol Sottili: You may want to try a travel agent that specializes in these sort of fares. Try www.statravel.com, www.justfares.com, www.airbrokers.com or www.airtreks.com.

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Arlington, Va.: Hi, thanks for the great chats!Wondering if the Crew or chatters have any advice/tips on preparing for a month-long trip (as opposed to a regular weeklong vacation)... I've done some Internet research already, but I was hoping someone would have some info that can only come from experience. Thanks!

KC Summers: Do we have the story for you. Our own Jerry Haines wrote a very helpful piece about just that topic, link coming up.

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washingtonpost.com: Puglia's Prime , (May 22, 2005)

Daniela Deane: Here's the link to a story Travel ran on Puglia...The Italians have gone to Puglia for a long time...But now, more foreign tourists are discovering it too.

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Burlington, Vt.: My boyfriend and I are headed to Reykjavik in a month for a long weekend. I've read that food is quite expensive, so I'm looking for one spectacular restaurant for us to hit while we're there. Suggestions?

Cindy Loose: Food is in fact very expensive.

Two of your less expensive options: Apotek (16 Austurstraeti) is a modern cafe with nice fish, with prices starting at about $14. Vio Tjornina (3 Templarsund), in about the same price range, serves great fish in an Old World setting.

But for great food, Siggi Hall at 1 Thorsgata has one of the country's most famous chefs, but expect to pay at least $70 per person or more. The Hotel Holt's Gallery Restaurant is noted for its art collection, ambiance and upscale food. Prices vary, but, for example, a four-course gourmet fish dinner has a set price of $68. Jonathan Livingston Seagull (4/6 Tryggvagotu), in a similar price range, serves fabulous lobster stew, shellfish. They also serve puffin, which are cute little birds I wouldn't eat. Also, when I was there I checked menus to see if they were serving whale, and if they were, I boycotted them. At restaurants where the menu changed daily, I asked if they ever served whale when I called or stopped by, and if they said yes, I made it clear that's why I wouldn't eat there. By the way, if you like fish salted and dried and smoked, you can find some good things to eat without paying alot of money. If you hate it as much as I do, you'll have to shop hard to find something to eat that's not terribly expensive.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Can you or your readers recommend a book and/or web site on traveling with babies and small children? I'm expecting my first baby, and would like to stay an active traveler. Thanks!

Steve Hendrix: You're instincts and your girlfriends will be your best guides when you first hit the road with baby. The former because every new parent feels a bit differently about when to go driving or flying for fun with an infant. Some are fussy when the routine gets roiled, others thrive in transit. In general, I've always found it pretty easy to dash around with a babe in arms, easier than with toddlers, at least. They're just another carry-on.

Don't know of any specific websites that address this. We got a book for review called the "Ultimate Book of Family Travel" by Emily Kaufman, "the Travel Mom." It seems, on a quick flip, to be filled largely with observations of the obvious. Can't recommend it.

Anyone know of a site or book for Silver Spring?

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N. Bethesda, Md.: now I'm gesticulating....you mean that as a single woman I have to look down and not be friendly?!?!?! that pretty well sucks! Will they respect a wedding band if hubby is not in tow?

Daniela Deane: honey, Italian men can be so cute you'll want to be friendly! ...If you're too friendly, they'll get the wrong idea though, whether you're wearing a wedding band or not...Isn't a wedding band an aphrodisiac?? Even here in the staid 'ol States? Now I AM gesticulating wildly!

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Washington DC: Another Chinatown bus suggestion: If none of the schedules work well for you, just take Greyhound. They've lowered their fares to compete with the Chinatown busses and if you buy online, the tickets to New York are only $40 round trip. I used to take the Chinatown bus, but I've switched to Greyhound/Peter Pan because it's so much more convenient--leaves every half-hour, every day.

Anne McDonough: And there's another option-thanks!

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Puglia PS: actually, I noted that that article was ALL I could find about the area. I was asking for more resouces.

KC Summers: Well we're not very helpful then, are we?! Sorry about that. We're reading through all the questions pretty fast here (and ALL of us are gesticulating wildly at this point). Robert's article is pretty much the sum total of everything we know about Puglia, so we'll throw your question out to the chatters.

Chatters?

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Colorado: Re: Torino, aka "the Detroit of Italy" -- I haven't seen many articles about the fantastic architecture in Turin - Guarini's chapel for the shroud, the cathedral, palaces, etc.?? We were there in 2000 (a trip just to see the Shroud; no I'm not religious but hey it's only on display a couple time a century - does that qualify me for the prize??), and were favorably impressed. In some ways, Turin is a gritty industrial town (it's not Tuscany), but the people were over-the-top friendly, helping us get places, find the right streetcar, striking up conversation.

For the chatter going to CAPTIVA SOUTH SEAS resort -- be aware that if you don't lease directly from the management company (e.g., through an owner or broker), you may not have access to all the resort's amenities like the pools, tennis, etc.

Daniela Deane: Torino is very beautiful, I agree, and so undiscovered by Americans...and Turin is too! The center of the city is a Baroque jewel...

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Annapolis, Md.: Heading to Munich next week for a long weekend. Any recomendations on things to do/places to see? Thanks!!

Gary Lee: There are some wonderful museums in Munich (where I had an apartment some years ago) starting with the Neue and Alte Pinakothek. See them, for sure. As you're probably aware, this is a big beer hall town and you should probably start any beer hall tour at Hofbrauhaus. For historical sites, the city of Dachau is an easy tram ride from the center of town and the concentration camp there would make for an interesting half day trip.

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For Arkansas: Go to Hot Springs for the hot mineral baths and massages. Also good hiking trails in Hot Springs National Park.

Gary Lee: Thanks, good tip.

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Pittsburgh, Pa.: I will be meeting my mother in NYC this weekend to attend a show and see the Westminster Dog Show at MSG. She will be traveling from Richmond by train. My father will see her off and I will be able to meet her at the train station in NY because my flight from Pittsburgh gets in early in the day. However, I am concerned about her return trip. She has very poor eyesight due to complications from diabetes, and I am concerned about her getting to her train in a busy station, with luggage, etc. Does anyone know if arrangements can be made to have someone there to escort her to her train at Penn Station?

Carol Sottili: Couldn't find an escort service, but here's some info that may help:

Penn Station has a unique "Talking Kiosk" that combines a tactile and large-print map of the station with a talking computer and large-print screen that give directions when points on the map are pressed. The kiosk gives directions to LIRR ticket windows, track locations, NYC Transit subway lines, MTA Police Headquarters, restrooms, and other important passenger services. It also gives directions to Amtrak and New Jersey Transit services at Penn Station. The kiosk is near the LIRR's ticketed waiting room, and can be located by its distinctive "chirping" sound.

Penn Station is very confusing. Maybe you should change your flight?

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re: Caribbean island for active seniors: My grandparents were snowbirds from New England who, instead of having a winter home in Florida, had a house on Aruba, not far from the lighthouse at the northern point of the island.

With the hotels, casinos, restaurants, Carnival in February, outdoor performances with steel drum bands and dancers in indigenous costumes, and the flavor of being in a Dutch colony, I'd highly recommend it.

Even after my grandfather passed away and my gradmother was living in Florida, she made her way back to Aruba for a week every year for many years.

Gary Lee: Thanks for seconding my mention of Aruba.

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Falls Church, Va.: My father (late 60s) and I are planning a trip to Japan in the relatively near future. He used to visit Japan for business in the 1970s, but hasn't been back in a long time. Is there an off-season when airfare and hotels will be cheaper? My usual method is to book airfare and hotel through Expedia or an airline; do you all think we can do much better than $1500 (hotel and airfare) per person for a week?

Cindy Loose: Business cycles and conventions drive traffic to Japan, and and unfortunately those cycles don't stick to any simple formula, like winter in Europe is cheaper. I think you'll just have to plug in some alternate dates that are otherwise appealing and see if a bargain leaps up.

As to price: the best airfares are generally in the $800 to $900 range if you plan ahead, and given how expensive hotels are, especially in Tokyo, $1,500 a person doesn't sound bad.

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Ningaloo Reef and a question: Submitting early as we now live in Europe and I don't always get to your great chat in real time.

For the question from last week's chat about charging iPods in Australia, if any of your electronics say 110 (or 120)/220 (or 240), 50-60,000 Hz, they are dual voltage and you need no transformer, only adapter plugs. If you travel a lot with your iPod, Apple makes a set of converter plugs which pop in and out of the charger.

For the question from the paper about the Ningaloo Reef and whale sharks, given flight schedules, two days won't be enough. If you want to dive, you will either have to drive/take a bus (ugh, it's a long way from Perth) or give yourself an extra day because the Aussies are quite good about requiring a day before/after diving to fly. Ningaloo Reef Dive is the only company in Coral Bay to offer diving. They and all the other outfits up there do day snorkel trips out to see the whale sharks. You are not allowed to get too close to them or to touch them, but it is pretty cool just to swim next to one. We found the NRD folks to be very nice and professional (you can google them and book directly either by e-mail or telephone). Better not to go on the largest boats (other operators) as they can only take a certain number of people in at a time to see the whale sharks who, once you have finally found one, might swim away before it is your turn. While you will have to travel farther from the Exmouth airport to stay in Coral Bay, it is closer to the whale sharks and has great snorkeling/diving (including decent snorkelling from shore). If you are lucky, you'll also be there when the reef sharks use part of the bay as a nursery. You can walk out to a sheltered part of the Bay and there may be dozens/hundreds of 1 to 2 foot long juvenile sharks. Or, as in our case, there may be some juvenile rays playing along the shore and following you as you are looking for the great shells which wash up after a storm. Just don't go at the beginning of the season. It's hard to predict exactly when they will be coming (timed with the coral bloom), so you don't want to miss it. We were a little early going last year the last week in March, and it took a while to find a cooperative whale shark.

Finally my questions -- is it too alarmist not to be travelling to Turkey (bird flu) or Sharm-el-Sheikh (terrorism, especially after the current problems for Danes and other Europeans)?

Following up from your articles about the Keys, we plan to be in Miami the week before Easter. If we only have a few days to go to the Keys, is it worth going all the way out to Key West, or should we stick closer to Key Largo? We'll have our 10 and 12 year old, great snorkellers, but not yet diving, with us.

Thanks, sorry the post was so long.

John Deiner: Wow. A lot here to digest. Well, not a lot, but thanks for the great info.

As far as Turkey and environs, we'd go. It all depends on your comfort level, of course. If you're going to fear avian flu at every step, why go somewhere that will make you uncomfortable. Keep a close eye on the CDC and State Department advisories.

As far as the Keys are concerned, I'd go all the way to Key West if you have three or more days. The ride is cool (honestly, you'll never be bored) and even if you just stay a few hours and wander the streets, it's worth it. There's great snorkeling/diving just north of there at Bahia Honda and Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary, so you don't have to race back to Key Largo. And it's much nicer down there, far less congested.

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Seattle, Wash: Hey, Flight Crew! I'm taking an Alaskan cruise in June and find myself with about eight hours between the time the ship docks and my flight leaves. Seeing as I've never been to Seattle, what would you recommend as the must-see attractions during my brief layover? Thanks!

KC Summers: I'd say the Pike Place Market, Powell's bookstore, an Underground tour and the Experience Music Project, but that's just me. Anyone else have suggestions?

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washingtonpost.com: Long Gone? , (March 7, 2004)

KC Summers: For the person going on a month-long trip, here's Jerry Haines's article on same.

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Northern Virginia: Just wanted to chime in on escorting at Dulles. Last year I helped my in-laws check-in with United at Dulles and was able to get a pass take them out to the mid-field terminal (and into the Red Carpet club.) Just expect a more thorough going over from the TSA folks when you don't have a ticket.

Cindy Loose: Yes---the airlines routinely give passes to parents accompanying children to the gate, and any person needing help should fall into that category. I'd suggest getting to the airport in plenty of time to work out any kinks that could arise.

Not sure if my colleague addressed this, but there are no beeping carts at Dulles. They're more common at the mega huge airports like Chicago.

I assume you've figured out a way to have her accommodated at the other end of her trip? If not, you might have to badger her into accepting a wheelchair ride, or check to see if the arriving airport has carts. Generally, you should request help when making the reservation, and again when you check in.

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Olney, Md.: We are planning a trip to South Africa during the July-August timeframe (our daughter is hoping to attend the University of Cape Town for a semester). Do you know any reliable "consolidators" to check for airfare specials. Also websites to check for hotels and other "in-country" travel. Does South African Airways have some type of travel pass for discounted domestic flights? Thanks for your help.

Andrea Sachs: For What's the Deal? a couple weeks ago, we listed UK Air's great South Africa deal: Flights from $975 (from Dulles), including one free RT ticket from Johannesburg to Capetown, Durban, Port Elizabeth, East London or George. Info: www. ukair.com for info. For other consolidators, check One Travel and Cheapseats.com, as well as Travelzoo.com for specials. South Africa's tourism Web site is a great place to start for lodging, planning, etc. See www.southafrica.net. For air passes, check out the One World Africa pass.

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Daniela Deane: By the way, NBC is calling it Torino too. And they're the ones televising the games...So get ready for lots of Torino instead of Turin!

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For Fall Foliage in Falls Church: If you are going to be near Western Mass/Southern Vemont, the Mohawk Trail is lovely and has some wonderful small towns along the way.

Andrea Sachs: Great suggestion--we love small New England towns.

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New England fall foliage: Here's a tip from a CT native.

Fly into Bradley (Hartford/Springfield), rent a car and drive up I-91 into Vermont. You'll get a great view of the Green Mountains as you make your way up north.

As to where to stay in Vermont, I always hear good things about Stowe (the Trapp family lodge is supposed to be one of the best resorts in the state).

Burlington is a beautiful little city, with UVM (University of Vermont) and Lake Champlain.

And, to plug my home state, spend a day or two in Hartford, take in a show at the Bushnell, check out the Wadsworth Athaneum, and take a tour of the Mark Twain House.

Andrea Sachs: Hey, you mapped out their route. Thanks!

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New York, NY: Last October I booked a London flight on Virgin through Orbitz. Canceled because I was hospitalized. They made me jump through hoops for a refund (Orbitz said to call Virgin, and vice versa). Finally I faxed my paperwork and they said wait 4-6 weeks.

By January I'd received nothing, so I called Virgin. They'd lost it or forgotten about it, but said they'd process it right away and I'd have my money ($500) next billing cycle. I called today, and they sent Orbitz the approval to pay. I said I thought the money was coming from Virgin, but no -- Virgin just restarted the reimbursement steps. I called Orbitz, but they had nothing on file. I flipped out and made them conference Virgin...turns out they MAILED it. They faxed it today but told me I have to wait an additional 1-3 billing cycles for my money -- which could be more than 6 MONTHS after my flight.

I will never use Orbitz or Virgin again. Is there anything I can do? They've had my $500 for over 3 months.

Carol Sottili: This is one of the problems with using a booking site. I don't know if you paid by credit card, but the first thing I would have done is dispute the charge. Most credit cards, however, give you only 60 days from billing to do this. Not much you can do now except to write letters of complaint to Better Business Bureau and to the involved companies.

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Cincinnati, Ohio: Trying to plan a second trip to Tofino in British Columbia and thought I would pass it on as a place that may be off most people's radar. Sits at the end of the road on the west coast of Vancouver Island and is one of my favorite places I have visited. My wife and I long to get back to New Zealand some day but until then we can get some of the same great scenery at this spot in Canada without the long plane trip. Amazing coastline, mountains and rainforest all in one. We stayed at the Middle Beach Lodge which is simple but affordable.

John Deiner: Hey, Cincy....one of my wanna-go-to places, if only for the amazing whale-watching that takes place there in February through May. Thanks for the tip.

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Arlington, Va.: We're heading to Europe and planning to get the Eurail Rail + Car package (Hertz or Avis) and will use the car in Italy. If someone has a past DWI/DUI but now has all driving status returned, will there be a problem with the car rental?

Andrea Sachs: As long as you are clear of all charges and your license has been renewed -- in other words, you are legal to drive in the United States -- you should be fine renting a car. Just, well, you know, I don't need to mother you.

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Arlington, Va: Hi! I have to go to New Orleans in June for a friend's wedding. The cheapest flight I have found from DC is on American for $245 roundtrip (with all the fees, etc.) This seems like a bit much, or is it? Should I wait and take my chances? Thanks!!

Carol Sottili: That doesn't sound all that high to me if you're looking for a nonstop flight and you need to travel on days other than Tuesday, Wednesday or Saturday (cheapest days to travel). If you're willing to connect, you can probably do better at www.airtran.com.

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Washington, DC: Hoping you or the chatters can help!!

We are hoping to find a restaurant in London this Friday for dinner with friends. We are staying in the Mayfair/Knightsbridge area, and are looking for any recommendations from those who have eaten in those neighborhoods?

I'm stuck because one friend is decidedly not adventurous and we are stuggling to find something not Pan-Asian or over $75 per person.

Thanks in advance!

Gary Lee: There's a small, lovely Mayfair restaurant called Hush. They food is good and the atmosphere is great. They usually offer a couple of set menus that fit into your budget. Anyone else have London restaurant tips?

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Arlington, Va: re: Seattle: Powell's is in Portland, not Seattle.

KC Summers: Duh, I meant Elliott Bay! But Powell's is great, too.

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Annapolis, Md: I'm looking for a quiet 2 BR, 2 bath apt in Rome, near Piazza Navona or Campo dei Fiori, the first week of Sept. I've found lots of providers on-line, many of whom provide "testimonials." I read the Post article about renting apts in London last Paris last fall. How do I find out which of the providers in Rome is reputable?

Gary Lee: I have used and can vouch for the agency Rome Sweet Home.

Anyone else have apartment hunting experience in Rome?

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Washington DC: I have a question for whoever wrote the recent article about Buenos Aires (Cindy, I think). How dressy would you recommend packing? I'm travelling to BA in a couple of weeks, I've heard it's stylish (as your article emphasized), and I don't want to stick out like a touristy sore thumb. But I'm also going to be doing some hiking on a different part of this trip, and I'm trying to pack light. Can I wear shorts around the city? Sneakers? I'm a mid-twenties woman, by the way.

Cindy Loose: Shorts--sore thumb big time. Jeans will do, though, especially what I call my nice jeans--those without the wear and tear that says they're much beloved. You might feel out of place in sneakers in lots of restaurants you'll like want to visit (given the prices I found I could afford much better food and better restaurantsthan usual, and thought it a terrible waste not to take advantage of those bargains, and even those that aren't particularly fancy won't have sneaker wearers. Then again, if you don't care, it's not like they're going to kick you out.)

But if it were me, and I'm the light packer of hte century, I'd take at one pair of walking-but-not-tennis shoes, or plan to buy a pair there. (Shoes are a bargain.) You can of course wear jeans a few times during travel, so one pair will take you a long way. If you can still jam in one pair of dressy black pants and a nice shirt or sweater for looking good, go for it. If not, ignore how the others look and do your thing.

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Eastern Shore to Costa Del Sol: On our way to Marbella, we have an 8 hour layover in London. It sounds like the most efficient way to get into town is via the Heathrow Express. It's been years since I have been to London. What are the must-sees? Kids are 7 and 9 - they are focused on Buckingham Palace and Big Ben. Any advice? Thanks!

John Deiner: I gotta tell ya...I loved the Tower of London, and I can't see how kids wouldn't get a kick out of it. Also, the Tower Bridge right outside the gates has a real neat walking tour (you can walk in a glass-enclosed path wayyyy above the Thames). And the London Eye is fun and, gee whiz, sort of educational as it lays all of London at your feet.

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Oregon bound: Planning a trip in late May to drive along the northern California and Oregon coasts.

Can you recommend towns worth staying in for a couple days? Too many choices so looking for expertise.

Cindy Loose: That is just the greatest trip ever. It's hard to go wrong. You have to stop in Mendocino and area all around there. I might even thing of heading inland around Eureka to enjoy Shasta lake and park. You can do the coast road up Oregon of course, but consider hitting route 5 at some point for a stop in Ashland--check first to see if the theater season has started, I think it will have. Then go back to the coast and continue.

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KC Summers: Well, we're out of time again. Thanks for a fun hour, everyone, and special thanks to Daniela Deane for sharing her enthusiasm about Italy's Turin -- pardon me, Torino -- region. The chatter who made Daniela gesticulate most wildly is the woman who's worried about having too many Italian men after her (poor baby). Send your contact info to me at summersk@washpost.com and we'll get the prize right out to you. See you all right here next week, and in the meantime, keep an eye out for this week's print edition, when we take you dog-sledding in the wilds of Quebec.

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