Free Range on Food

A chat with the Food section staff is a chance for you to ask questions, offer suggestions and share information with other cooks and food lovers. It is a forum for discussion of food trends, ingredients, menus, gadgets and anything else food-related.

Each chat, we will focus on topics from the day's Food section . Do you have a question about a particular recipe or a food-related anecdote to share? The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET. Read about the staff of the Food section .

The transcript follows.

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Bonnie: A gracious good afternoon. As Candy Sagon's college food story proves, baby boomers have produced a pretty discriminating buncha students. Do parents of kids at the places with the best grub feel better about tuition bills, we wonder? Let us know...

We're sorry last week's recipes ran together, making them unintelligible (even to us). Hoping that's corrected this week.

A "Sopranos" cookbook to give away today to the chatter with an attributed example of food lingo-itis. We'll post the winner near the end of the chat.

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Arlington, Va.: Help! I'm submitting my question early because of work, but I'm hosting a baby shower brunch this weekend and I remember that you ran a recipe for a breakfast strata that you could put in the refrigerator overnight and then bake the next morning. Could you post that for me?

Marcia: Happily. This recipe for Gruyere and Onion Strata was provided by Metro staff member Robert Barnes in 2004. It's been a family favorite that he wrote "was the centerpiece of a brunch we offered for bid at Woodlin Elementary's winter festival in Silver Spring." Hope you like it:

Sausage, Gruyere and Onion Strata

6 to 8 servings

If you prefer, you may use chopped, fully cooked smoked sausage instead of fresh sausage. Since that kind of sausage needs no cooking, saute it with the onion to blend the flavors. I usually make 1 1/2 times this recipe, which works well, to make sure there's enough for eight.

From "The Good Egg," by Marie Simmons (Houghton Mifflin, 2000):

8 ounces breakfast, sweet Italian or other sausage, casings removed

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional for the casserole

1/2 cup chopped onion

1/2 cup chopped red bell pepper

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus additional to taste

Freshly ground black pepper

5 large eggs

2 1/2 cups milk

6 to 8 thick (1/2-inch) slices firm white sandwich, Italian or French bread, preferably 1 day old

11/2 to 2 cups grated Gruyere cheese (about 6 ounces)

In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the sausage, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon or spatula to crumble it into pieces, until lightly browned and no trace of pink remains, about 5 minutes. Transfer the sausage to a strainer set over a bowl and set aside to drain; discard any fat. Wipe out the skillet.

Return the skillet to medium heat and add the oil. Add the onion and bell pepper and cook, stirring, until golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the parsley, a pinch of salt and a grinding of pepper. Add the sausage and stir to combine. Set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until foamy. Whisk in the milk until blended. Add 1 teaspoon salt and a grinding of pepper.

To assemble the strata, lightly coat a 2-quart shallow baking dish with oil. Use half the bread slices to make a single layer in the baking dish, cutting them, if necessary, to fit tightly. Spoon the sausage mixture evenly over the bread. Sprinkle with 1 cup of cheese. Use the remaining bread slices to make a second layer, once again cutting them to fit if necessary. Pour the egg mixture evenly over the top, using a spatula to press on the bread so the liquid is evenly absorbed. Top with the remaining cheese. Cover with plastic and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to overnight.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Uncover the strata and bake until puffed and browned, about 45 minutes.

Per serving (based on 8): 358 calories, 19 gm protein, 18 gm carbohydrates, 23 gm fat, 183 mg cholesterol, 9 gm saturated fat, 781 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary fiber

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Silver Spring, Md.: Submitting early because I'm going to the Philadelphia Flower show on Wed. My husband and I bought a bottle of 1990 Vin Santo by Avignonesi when we were in Italy 5 years ago. Can you recommend a special dessert we can make to accompany this special bottle? We are experienced cooks willing to try anything.

Judith W.: How great to look forward to that Vin Santo! But you probably don't want to serve it with a special dessert--its sweetness and a sweet dessert might be overload. Vin Santo is traditionally served after dinner (or whenever you like) with cantucci, those widely available rock hard almond biscuits that are either dipped into or savored with the sweet wine.

If you want to try something special, however, this savory paste recommended by the reliable King Arthur Flour; they suggest it as a spread for bruschetta that actually includes vin santo in the ingredients. That way, you can start the evening with vin santo, and end the meal that way too. Here is the recipe:

2 to 3 tbsp. (7/8 to 1 1/4 ounces) olive oil

A sprig of rosemary,minced if fresh, crumbled if dry

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 link (3 to 4 ounces) hot Italian sausage

1 link (3 to 4 ounces) sweet Italian sausage

10 ounces chicken livers

1/3 cup (2 5/8 ounces) vin santo or dry sherry

1 baguette

In a large skillet, slowly saute the rosemary, garlic and onion in the olive oil, sweating the mixture until the onion is half limp. Transfer to a small dish. Remove the sausage from its casing, and put it in the pan. Chop it up roughly and cook it for a couple of minutes over medium heat.

Rinse the chicken livers quickly under cold water, and add them to the pan. Cook until the sausage has begun to brown and the liver is cooked through (it's okay if it's still slightly pink in the middle). Return the onion mixture to the pan, pour in the vin santo, and cook until any brown bits on the bottom of the pan have been loosened and incorporated into the mixture, and the vin santo has been reduced by about half. Place this mixture into a blender and blend until it's a rough but homogeneous texture; you don't want it pureed.

Cut the baguette in slices about 3/4 inch thick, and toast them in a medium oven on a baking sheet until each side is slightly browned but the center is still soft. To serve, scoop a good spoonful of topping onto the toast, and sit back and savor. Yield: about 6 servings.

Enjoy!

Judith W.: Here's another thought. If you'd like to make your own cantucci, try this recipe from "Gatherings and Celebrations." Uses the biscotti approach, but the ingredients are traditional for cantucci. Together with Vin Santo, it makes a nice light dessert.

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 cup sugar, plus 1 tablespoon

1/8 tsp. salt

1 tsp baking powder

4 large eggs

1 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract

3/4 cup whole unblanched almonds

3/4 cup whole hazelnuts

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper.

Sift the flour, 1 cup of the sugar, the salt, and the baking powder into a large mixing bowl. In a small bowl, lightly whisk the eggs and vanilla together. Make a well in the flour, pour in the eggs and, with a fork or your finger, pull the dry ingredients into the wet to make a sort dough.

Turn the dough out onto a clean work surface and gently knead the nuts into the dough. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes.

Divide the dough into 4 pieces and form each piece into a log 10 inches long by 2 inches wide. Place the logs on the prepared cookie sheet 2 inches apart, brush them with water, and sprinkle on the remaining tablespoon of the sugar and bake for 25 minutes. The logs should be firm but still pliable. Cool for 10 minutes.

When the logs are cool, use a serrated knife to cut them on an angle into 1-inch slices. Lay the cookies out on the cookie sheet. Lower the oven temperature to 300 degrees F. and bake for 35 minutes. To check that the cookies are dry enough, remove one from the oven and let it cool. The cookies should be dry and crisp. Cool completely and store well covered.

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Chantilly, Va.: Great story today on college food. What are some of the vegetarian and vegan choices that colleges are offering? I'm assuming they do more than just steamed veggies.

Candy: Thanks! The vegetarian choices are pretty broad--everything from pizza and other Italian dishes involving pasta, to Middle Eastern (hummus, falafel, etc.), to Asian (lots of tofu, stir-fried, seared) to Southwestern (veggie burritos, refried beans). Vegan choices revolve around grains and beans plus, of course, the Asian tofu and Middle Eastern dishes. Oh, and lots of smoothies.

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Charlottesville, Va.: What's up with Kefir? Since I've been having it as my late night snack for the last few months, my abdomen is lightening up. I am seeing my weight loss miracle occurring. I also eat organic foods. Can someone please share a recipe that uses Kefir inside a fish or meat dish??

Leigh: Kefir (pronounced keh-FEER)is a slightly sour brew of fermented milk, very similar in consistency to drinkable yogurt but with more active cultures. Although I haven't tried to cook with it and don't know if it loses some of its properties when heated, I would guess it could be used where yogurt is called for. It would likely work well in spiced marinades such as tandoori chicken. Chatters,do you have further suggestions?

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Gaithersburg, Md.: I'm seeing fresh rhubarb in the market. My mother used to make a strawberry-rhubarb pie that we always knew meant spring was almost here. I'm not an experienced baker, but I'd like to make this for my family. Do you have any fool-proof recipes?

Marcia: Greetings, Gaithersburg. Here's a recipe we ran in 1998 by Elinor Klivans, a master baker if ever there was one. It has a meringue topping.

Strawberry Rhubarb Meringue Pie (8 servings)

1 baked 9-inch pie crust

For the filling:

3 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca

2 cups sliced strawberries

About 1 1/4 pounds rhubarb cut into 1-inch dice (5 cups)

3/4 cup granulated sugar

For the meringue topping:

5 large egg whites

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

1/3 cup superfine granulated sugar (or substitute granulated sugar that has been processed in a food processor for 30 seconds)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Have pie crust ready.

For the filling: Stir the tapioca, strawberries, rhubarb and sugar together with 2 tablespoons water in a nonreactive saucepan. Let sit for 5 minutes. Cover and cook the mixture over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the rhubarb begins to release liquid, about 10 minutes. Cook on medium-low heat until the mixture begins to bubble gently. Then uncover and simmer, stirring constantly, until the rhubarb softens and the mixture thickens, about 10 minutes longer. Set aside to cool slightly while you prepare the topping.

For the topping: Beat the egg whites and cream of tartar with an electric mixer in a clean large bowl until soft peaks form. Slowly beat in the sugar.

Pour the warm rhubarb filling into the prepared crust. Spread the meringue over the filling, mounding it toward the center. The meringue should cover the edges of the crust. Bake in the preheated oven for about 15 minutes, until the top is evenly golden. Cool for 1 hour. Refrigerate and serve cold.

Per serving: 268 calories, 5 gm protein, 47 gm carbohydrates, 8 gm fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 2 gm saturated fat, 176 mg sodium

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Risotto ideas?: I love making risotto (it's the only starch I let myself have when I'm trying to lose weight), but I've fallen into a rut. I end up making either portabello or asparagus tips. Any ideas for doing a Monty Python (and now, for something completely different) ??

Marcia: "The New Basics" cookbook(Workman Publishing,1989)has a terrific risotto recipe that uses pesto sauce. I've even eaten leftovers cold, it's so good. See what you think:

Pesto Walnut Risotto

4-6 servings

1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3/4 cup chopped onion

1 cup arborio rice

4 cups chicken stock or broth

3 tablespoons basil pesto (purchased pesto is fine)

3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

Freshly ground black pepper

In a heavy pan, heat the oil over low heat. Add the onion and cook until translucent, 3 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large pan, boil the chicken stock. Reduce the heat and keep it at a simmer.

Slowly add 1 cup of the stock to the rice, stirring constantly. Continue to stir, allowing the rice to simmer. When the stock has been absorbed, add 1/2 cup and allow it to simmer, stirring well until it has been absorbed. Continue adding the stock 1/2 cup at a time, stirring constantly, until almost all the stock has been added.

Add the pesto and continue cooking, adding the remaining stock in 1/4 cup increments, stirring constantly, until the rice is slightly creamy and just tender. Altogether the rice should cook for 25 to 30 minutes. When all the stock has been absorbed, stir in the Parmesan cheese, walnuts and black pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi. I'm hoping you can help. I want to start eating more leafy greens -- I love them. But my super market has all greens together in a big section, all with the same price, and none with labels. How can I figure out which green is which? (The employees are no help.) Do you know of a guide? I've got lots of recipes I'd like to try, but would like to get the right leaf first. Thanks.

Judy H.: You might want to pick up the Field Guide to Produce, (Quirk Books, 2004 $14.95). Lots of good description and useful pictures. The pictures, which are bound together in the middle of the book, could be bigger, however.

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Gaithersburg, Md.: I have a really stupid question. How do I store garlic? I tried storing it in the fridge and on the countertop and it just doesn't last that long. Thanks!

Candy: Not a stupid question at all. Never store garlic in the fridge--it's too damp and it'll sprout and become bitter. Basically, garlic needs to be stored in a dry, dark, cool place. There are garlic keepers (clay pots with ventilation), but you can also use a paper bag. You could also freeze it in cloves or pieces. Whatever you do, never store garlic in oil at room temp.--you risk botulism.

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Washington, D.C.: I think I have asked this before to no avail so I thought I would try again. I remember hearing about freezing rice on this blog and wanted to know how to go about that. I usually cook brown rice which takes forever so if I could make a ton in advance and then freeze it that would be great. Just wondering how to store it/how to defrost. Thanks!

Judith W.: I know what you mean about brown rice taking forever. I freeze it too--it's sturdy enough to take it. But all I do is divide the (cooled) rice into appropriate meal-sized portions, put the amount you'll want into a freezer-safe plastic bag, press all the air out, and put it in the freezer. When you need it, take it out of the freezer a bit ahead of time, and defrost. Incredibly handy to have around.

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Arlington, Va.: In most cities, you can find restaurant-supply stores open to the public. These are great for picking up heavy-duty, relatively inexpensive goodies like 1/2 sheet pans or nonstick skillets.

I haven't been able to find any such operations in this area. One that I know of, in Alexandria, requires a business account. Do you know of any restaurant supply stores open to the public in this area?

Candy: Hi Arlington. Try these restaurant supply places that say they're open to the public:

George's Restaurant Equipment, 415 E. Raymond Ave., Alexandria, 703-836-1800.

Standard Restaurant Equipment, 2910 V St. NE, 202-529-2231.

Beltway Restaurant Restaurant Equipment, 10320 Southard Dr., Beltsville, 301-937-1690.

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Logan Circle, Washington, D.C.: Hi, I am inviting some people over for movie night (The Constant Gardener) with a traditional Kenyan meal. I lived in Kenya several years ago, and feel confident with my Sukuma Wiki, Irio, and other local dishes. The problem: where in DC can I find Ugali, or a similar corn meal (Banku in Ghana, Sadza in Zimbabwe)? THANKS!

Judy H.: Hi, Logan Circle. International Foods says it has Banku from Ghana, but not Ugali. International Foods is at 7611D Richmond Highway,Alexandria. West African owned store is across the street from the Mt. Vernon Square Shopping Center. Helpful over the phone.

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College Park, Md.: Where can I find some French style sausages in the area? I'd like to make a cassoulet this weekend, and I don't want to use Italian sausages. If there is no such meat product in the area, can somewhere tell me what a good substitute would be?

Judith W.: If you didn't need it before the weekend, I'd tell you to read the article on sausage maker Stanley Feder coming up soon in the Food section. But we know you can't wait that long, so send Feder a message at info@simply-sausage.com and ask him where to get his French Country Sausage. Good luck with the cassoulet!

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Risotto poster: The poster looking for risotto ideas should check out the lemon risotto recipe on epicurious. It is still bar-none the best risotto recipe I have ever tried and I make it frequently.

Judy H.: Thanks risotto poster.

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Chevy Chase, Md.: As I am getting older I am finding it increasingly more difficult to lift my calpholon large saute pan. Any suggestions for a good all around pan which is lighter but will give good results? Thanks..I love this forum as resource. A cook in Chevy chase

Candy: Chevy Chase: We hear you. Those Calphalon pans are very heavy, especially when they're filled with food. A good, lighter-weight substitute might be Farberware Vibrance, which has silicone inserts in the handles to keep them cooler. Maybe our chatters have some other favorites that don't weigh a ton... chatters?

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Boston, Mass.: Someone in a recent chat had said that they had a problem copying recipes out of the Post's site because they were broken into multiple pages. I have found the same thing, BUT if you go to the printer-friendly page that is on every article, it is much easier to deal with.

Maybe that poster is in the audience and will see this tip.

Judy H.: Thanks, Boston.

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Risotto follow-up: I'm the poster who wrote two weeks ago about trying risotto in the pressure cooker. Well, we had some last week, and it was fabulous. Smooth and creamy, and the cooking took 6 minutes. I highly recommend it.

I'd always been afraid of pressure cookers but the new generation of them are so safe that I'm really not worried anymore.

I'm still new at pressure cookers, but I've also loved the soups I get out of there-- the flavors are so well blended and rich. The only thing I've found I don't like in there is mushrooms, which turn rather rubbery (even if sauteed beforehand). I just add them in at the end.

Judy H.: Thanks for the experience. What a difference from standing and stirring for 30 minutes.

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Guacamole question: Those refrigerated packs of already mashed up avocados for guacamole--are they any good? I'm thinking they're cheaper than buying fresh avocados if I want to make a big batch of guacamole for a party.

Bonnie: Depends on the brand and whether it's pulp or a more processed product; be a label reader. You may want to avoid the ones with acidic additives such as lemon juice. I can usually taste the diff. At the risk of sounding like a fussy food type, I suggest you buy a bag o'avocados the next time they're on sale, let 'em ripen, take 2 mins to pit, peel and freeze 'em yourself. You'll be glad you did.

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Sinking chips, Md.: hi. please help! how do you keep chocolate chips from sinking in cake or pie? i have tried the old trick of mixing them in a bit of flour beforehand and this does not solve the problem (75 percent of the chips sink instead of 100 percent). maybe i need to use mini-chips (because they would weigh less)?but i prefer the standard chips. any tips?

Leigh: Indeed, you have the right idea. Unless you have a fairly viscous batter, you are better off using the mini-chips to keep them suspended. You can add additional "oomph" by putting some chocolate chips in the middle frosting layer. (But then there's the ever-popular option of getting your fix from eating chips straight from the bag.)

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Midwest: I wrote in two weeks ago and you gave me a recipe for schmaltz to make matzo ball soup. I cut up the chicken skin and fat, cooked it with a sliced onion, and waited, and waited, and waited, and it never did give off much fat. These are chickens we raised, and this one was a little large and had gotten fattier. I finally ended up with 2 T or more, but I have to admit it was with the help of adding a little Crisco! Aaak!

Any ideas?

Judith W.: I agree. That's incredibly frustrating. Did you include the actual fatty bits in the chicken? I'll bet your chickens have much better nutrition and are trimmer than the average supermarket bird. One of those would certainly yield more fat.

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Washington, D.C.: Wow! The JMU cafeteria doesn't look anything like what I remember at my alma mater. One of the schools served chicken with chimichurri sauce. What exactly is that and do you have a recipe?

Marcia: Chimichurri is a thick, flavorful sauce that includes olive oil, vinegar, parsley and garlic. It's popular in Argentina with grilled meat and chicken.

Diane Rossen Worthington describes the origin of the term in "Serious Simple" (Chronicle Books, 2002): "Legend has it that the word 'chimichurri' derives from the days when British laborers were working in Argentina. When they saw bowls of the aromatic sauce, they said, 'Give me curry,' which over the years became the word 'chimichurri.'"

Here's her version of chicken with chimichurri sauce. (The sauce, she says, can be made up to 5 days ahead, covered and refrigerated. Remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before serving.)

Grilled Chicken Breasts With Chimichurri Sauce

4 to 6 servings

For the chimichurri sauce:

10 cloves garlic, peeled

1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, stemmed

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup white balsamic vinegar or white wine vinegar

1/4 cup water or chicken broth

3/4 teaspoon dried oregano

3/4 teaspoon dried basil

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste

Salt to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the marinade:

3 tablespoons chimichurri sauce, above

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 whole chicken breasts, halved, boned and flattened

For the sauce: In a food processor, puree the garlic. Add the parsley and process until finely chopped. Add the remaining ingredients and process to blend. Taste and adjust the seasonings. It should be very flavorful and spicy.

In a small bowl, combine the marinade ingredients and stir until smooth. Place the chicken breasts in a sealable plastic bag and pour in the marinade. Turn the chicken to coat it evenly. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to 4 hours.

Prepare a barbecue grill or oiled grill pan for medium-heat grilling. Remove the chicken from the marinade and grill for 7 to 10 minutes on each side, or until no pink color is showing.

Place on a platter and serve with the sauce on the side.

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Washington, D.C.: I really enjoyed your article today on college food. In addition to my schools days, I've worked for a couple of universities. I must say that it is great having a choice. I work for a big university in the Foggy Bottom area and I can't help but feel a little bad for the students. They don't have a dining hall. They have a food court. It's mostly chain places and it's not a value for the money. Are there other universities out there w/o a real dining hall?

Candy: D.C.--The food court layout, like they have in malls, is popular on campuses--kids really like it, altho most school don't have that many chain places. But chains are showing up on more and more campuses because a) the kids like them and b) it's less hassle and money for the college. But there are still a large number of schools who have dining halls, often in each dorm, or at one central location. Harvard, for example, has 13 dining halls in its 13 residence houses. They each have exactly the same menu so that no one feels slighted because their food is different.

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Washington, D.C.: To the poster asking about frozen avocados, I have had success with the frozen Haas avocados sold at Trader Joe's for $2.99. I say give them a try since if you aren't satisfied you can get your money back. (And no, I don't work there or have any financial stake). They also sell bags of 4 fresh avocados for 2.99 if you want to freeze yourself.

Candy: Thanks! The TJ bags of frozen 'cadoes are great. I've also tried the refrigerated guacamole mixes at Harris Teeter and Wegman's (in the produce section). They're basically bags of smushed avocado with separate bags of salsa to stir in. Just add chips and margaritas.

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Washington, D.C.: I laughed my head off when I read about the two Harvard guys complaining about the lack of whole grains in their cafeteria. I bet they're a minority of two on that issue. So what's so great about that popcorn chicken any way?

Candy: Uh, it's salty, fatty, crunchy and fried. What more do you need to know?

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Satisfied Student: I just wanted to mention that I attended St. Olaf College in Northfield, MN, which is often listed as one of the best as far as food goes. Most of the students live on campus for their undergraduate years (myself included), and I just have to mention that it was absolutely wonderful. I have no complaints and I actually miss the food!! How many people can say that?

Candy: Yup, St. Olaf's made the top-10 list as well. Congrats on your fine taste!

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Meat browning: I have many times noticed that when a recipe includes browning of meat and lists a cooking time afterwards, I need much more time for meat to become tender. It happened recently with a recent recipe from Food section - Beef Carbonada (beef in Italian wine)- that, I belive, was from one of big local chefs. The recipe had 1.5 inch chunks of beef, browned and cooked in wine for 10 to 20 minutes till tender. In my case it took about an hour for beef to become tender. My question - what exactly is browning ? I suspect that I might be doing that wrong - I just wait till color changes from red to gray. Is it too short ? Many thanks!

Judy H.: We have only one thing to say as we sit here with bright red faces. Mea culpa. The problem with that recipe was our fault. We published a correction,which you may have missed. The Piedmontese Carbonada should cook for 2 and 1/2 hours. Browning is basically what it sounds like: cooking food quickly over high heat so the surface of the meat turns brown while the interior stays moist. It is not a substitute for the long slow cooking required to fully braise a dish like Carbonada.

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Petworth, D.C.: My favorite foodism:

Opportunivore (noun): Someone who will eat anything, anytime, anywhere (my brother AKA garbage gut definitely qualifies...if you can't finish something...don't worry...he will :)

Leigh: I think we all know one of these.

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New York, N.Y.: Hello food section! I love your chats and hope you can help me out.

Do you have a recipe for apple crisp? And since this is my first time baking this, could you tell me what kind of apples I should be using? Thanks so much!

Bonnie: Boy, thanks for reminding us about this one. Not sure all these kinds will be available now, but the theory here that a mix makes for a better crisp, will hold true.

Simple Apple Crisp

6 to 8 servings

This is Tom Burford's favorite combination. The Golden Delicious contributes sweetness, so there's no need for sugar in the filling. The Winesap is tart; hence, no lemon juice. The Jonathan is both sweet and tart, for added depth of flavor. Taken together, this crisp is slightly tart. Any or all of these apple varieties can be substituted; consult "Look for a Balance" to make selections.

Based on a traditional Virginia mountain recipe.

6 apples: 2 Golden Delicious, 2 Winesap and 2 Jonathan, peeled, cored and sliced into eighths

4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened

1 cup flour

1 cup sugar

2 to 4 tablespoons apple cider or hard cider (optional)

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Have ready an ungreased 8- or 9-inch-square baking pan.

Mix the apples together in a medium bowl and transfer them to the pan.

In a medium bowl, using a whisk, combine the butter, flour and sugar until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Sprinkle it over the apples.

Bake for 50 to 60 minutes or until golden brown and bubbly. Halfway through the cooking, if the apples look a little dry, add 2 to 4 tablespoons of cider. Let cool slightly before serving, or serve cold.

Per serving (based on 8): 312 calories, 2 g protein, 52 g carbohydrates, 12 g fat, 31 mg cholesterol, 7 g saturated fat, 2 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber

Recipe tested by Marcia Kramer; e-mail questions to food@washpost.com

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Re: Choco Chips sinking: I always stir them into my batter so they're dispensed throughout, usually they stay blended and don't sink.

Hey, wanted to share w/your readers about a great cooking school, not close - it's in New Hampshire but let me tell you it was a really fun and educational time. I went to the White Mountain Cooking School in Snowville, New Hampshire last weekend and learned a lot about cooking with chocolate. We made a variety of items and the chef was well versed and made for an entertaining time. check it out at www.snowvillageinn.com and click on the link to the cooking school....I highly recommend it.

Judy H.: Thanks for the recommendation. Glad to hear from somebody who seems to have solved the sinking chocolate chip problem. Maybe you are talking about fairly thick batter and the earlier chatter, thin???

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Bonnie: To the Midwest schmaltzer: Gotta admire your effort. A fail-safe route is Empire's frozen chicken fat, which comes in a 7-ounce container and is usually back in the grocery store's meat dept.

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Columbia, Md.: I am desperate for your help! I often buy little cans of this or that or new veggies just to experiment, but my latest purchase has me totally befuddled - Breadfruit Nuts. Not plain breadfruit, which I can find lots of information on and recipes for - but Breadfruit Nuts. What the heck do I do with them? I tried googling - and even went to the Goya website to see if there were any hints or tips for eating them - but no luck. You're my last hope!

Judy H.: Posting this in the hope that our chatters have the perfect answer. While waiting, I might be tempted to toast a few and see what they taste like.

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Question: Do I have to use oil when cooking chorizo sausages in the pan?

Bonnie: Nah, especially if you have a nonstick pan. Even without it, the links will release from the pan in a few mins' time.

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Silver Spring, Md.: For the poster asking about freezing brown rice, Trader Joe's sells frozen packets of brown rice that you can pop in the microwave for three minutes. Saves lots of time!

Judith W.: That works for me--is it expensive?

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Leesburg, Va.: My sister is getting married and my parents are hosting a dinner at their home for the out-of-town guests the night before the wedding. They've asked me to pick out the wine for the meal--there will be about 25 people and my mother is making huge platters of a Silver Palate recipe she loves--Marbella chicken with olives and prunes and onions. What would you suggest? The guests range from the wine clueless to pretty sophisticated connoisseurs.

Candy: Nice gig, Leesburg, mom does the cooking and you get to bring the wine. How about an Italian prosecco--a dry sparkling wine that's not too expensive and, like champagne, goes with everything. You also might consider a light, fruity red--a beaujolais, perhaps, or an Oregon pinot noir.

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meat browning: Yeah, I missed the correction, but don't be red-faced. I knew that 10-20 minutes is nonrealistic, as wine should have evaporated into sauce and it takes time at slow boiling. I had to boil wine sauce separately to get deserted consistency. It is still a great sauce and dish, albeit in my case meat required some chewing. Thanks for responding about browning. I gather from what you wrote that the desired color should be brown, not gray, so it needs to be fried, not just dried. Is that correct ?

Judy H.: Yes to the color and frying questions. Occasionally meat can be browned in the oven, but usually it is browned on all sides in a little oil in a frying pan over quite high heat for just a few seconds or minutes. It should definitely not be gray.

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Bananas: Can you explain how bananas make it to my grocery store from Central America in great shape (a little green and yellow) and then they are over-ripe within 2 days in my kitchen?Thanks

Leigh: You're not imagining things. Bananas arrive here green (or close to green) and go through a process using ethylene gas that accelerates ripening before they hit the produce markets. If you want them to last longer once you get them home, try keeping them in the refrigerator. The skins will still darken but the fruit itself will be better preserved.

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Beef info/sources?: Beef safety...

With the furor over American beef these days, I'd like to be able to find out who uses what practices for raising cattle. I'm in an area (in the Midwest) which does not have organic beef as an option, so I need options - have to find a way to make something work. Got any great ideas for me?

Candy: Beef lover: You might check the eatwell.org website or the localharvest.org or the heritagefoodsusa.com website for local farmers in your area that raise grass-fed beef. A recent study by the Union of Concerned Scientists shows that grass-fed beef delivers more nutritional benefits and is better for the animals and the environment. You might also check local farmers markets--often organic and grass-fed beef farmers sell their small supply that way, instead of to big markets.

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Rib lover: Those short ribs in the Worth A Trip sound delicious. Would the chef reveal his recipe for the Budweiser sauce? I love that he uses cheap beer!

Judy H.: Chef Eric Reid seems like the sharing type, but unfortunately, he won't be back at the restaurant until 4 p.m. You could try calling or we could check it out for next week if you post early.

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Lingo: Sorry I can't attribute this to anyone, but one of my favorite food-related jargon is "burger furnace" for the monster stainless steel grills you see parked on the patios and decks of MacMansions.

Judy H.: Great phrase: burger furnace. Thanks.

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Arlington, Va.: Re: food lingo, whether you love it or hate it, the term "foodie" has definitely made its way into our vocabulary. A slang term which is less familiar but so much more fun to use is "foodist," meaning someone who is discrimitive (or ultra snobby) about food.

Bonnie: We've been known to employ the "-ie" term, but we prefer to be called people with good taste. ahem.

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Rhubarb Pie recipe question: For the meringue, you say to beat until soft peaks and then begin adding sugar. Do you then take it to stiff peaks? Just want to confirm my understanding... Haven't made meringue in ages, but this pie sounds dreamy.

Leigh: Just to clarify, yes, you continue beating the meringue until stiff peaks form.

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Washington, D.C.: My least favor "food-lingo" now is EVOO. I first noticed it with Rachael Ray on Food TV, but I feel like it's spread and now I hear it everywhere! Just say it, Extra Virgin Olive Oil!

Bonnie: Two snaps.

Here are a couple that didn't make it in the paper today:

Good for the Spoon -- A restaurant with good food.

Ivory Tower Recipe - Totally unrealistic recipe. Who would make it never mind eat it?

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Silver Spring, Md. (brown rice): If I remember correctly, the frozen packets of brown rice at Trader Joe's in the $4 range. They come three packets to a box.

Judy H.: Thanks Silver. Trader Joe's in Bethesda says it is temporarily out of stock as their supplier struggles to keep up with demand. It is $2.99 for three packets.

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Washington, D.C.: What's the deal with frying pasta? Do you have any good and simple recipes that involve it?

Bonnie: A natural in Italian leftover circles.

Crisped Pasta

1 to 2 servings

The concept couldn't be simpler. The execution is a tad tricky: If the flame is too high, the pasta will turn sharp and crunchy. But if the fire is too low, the pasta will refuse to turn light and airy. It may take a couple of tries to get it just right.

Olive oil

Cold cooked pasta, preferably penne, either plain or lightly sauced

Sea salt

Pasta sauce or other toppings (suggestions follow)

Place a large skillet, preferably cast-iron, over medium-high heat. Add just enough oil to barely cover the bottom of the skillet and heat for a couple of minutes until hot but not smoking.

Add a couple of handfuls of pasta, in clumps if necessary, and use a wooden spoon to gently level the pasta into a single layer. Do not crowd the skillet. Cook, without stirring or even so much as peeking at the bottom of a single piece of pasta, until the pasta begins to blister, crisp and turn golden brown on the bottom, at least 2 minutes. If using penne, use the wooden spoon or a spatula, flip the pasta in chunks, much as you would a hash. If using spaghetti or linguine, wait a minute or two longer until the pasta forms a crisped nest and then deftly attempt to flip it all at once. Continue to cook, increasing the heat slightly if necessary, until the pasta is slightly crisp, golden and oddly puffed on the other side, about 3 minutes or so. Do not turn your back to wash the dishes or open a bottle of wine. Transfer the pasta to a plate and sprinkle it immediately with sea salt. Top, if desired, with sauce or other toppings.

Per serving (using 3 ounces pasta): 376 calories, 11 gm protein, 64 gm carbohydrates, 8 gm fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1 gm saturated fat, 239 mg sodium, 2 gm dietary fiber

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Food Lingo: Actually, a couple of days ago, I was looking through tourism guides and I thought that the Bromo Tower in Balitmore was interesting, yet odd. Then, my brain went into overload! Bromotology is the study of food. Bromo seltzer is the stuff that alleviates the ill-effects of food. The Bromo Tower was designed after the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence, Italy. Italian food is wonderful, but too much of a good thing can lead to the need for Bromo Seltzer. Food lingo can be rather intense!

Bonnie: Close, but no cannoli. Did you mean bromatology?

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Alexandria, Va.: I love good food, but was told that I have a seriously high cholesterol problem. So -- I'll be dieting and exercising. I can live without ice cream and sweets, but hate fake fat stuff. Anyone have any good web sites or cookbooks to recommend?

Judith W.: It's tough, isn't it. The Mediterranean Diet (which is the traditional and satisfying way of eating in the Mediterranean area rather than a diet) is the way to go. If you google it, you'll get a zillion good ideas. Look at Nancy Jenkins's The Mediterranean Diet cookbook, Martha Shulman's Mediterraneal Light and this link http://www.womensheartfoundation.org/content/Nutrition/mediterranean.asp

from the women's heart foundation. They'll get you started. Good luck. We know it isn't easy to make a big change.

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Bonnie: Today's chat winner, sans attribution: Burger furnace. Send your mailing address info to food@washpost.com.

Lots of questions coming in late...sorry we didn't get to them all. Next week, we check in with some young local food entrepreneurs around Washington. Thanks for stopping by.

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Reston: I have a refrigerator door full of half-full sauces that I need to clean out. Just how long does a bottled sauce keep if it's been refrigerated?

Bonnie: If the cap's got a crust of its own, pitch it. If they've been sitting on the door, pitch 'em. If there's a date on the package, a time reprieve is possible.

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