Ask Tom

Picky Eaters and Germs

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. You can access his Postcards from Tom to read his recommendations for other cities, read his dining column or read transcripts of previous "Ask Tom" chats. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

The transcript follows.

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Dallas, Tex.: Tom, is it common practice for bartenders to conduct quality assurance tests for mixed drinks they make for patrons by sticking a straw in the drink with their finger on top of one end of the straw and then by pulling the straw out of the drink and sticking the straw in their mouth to take a sip? I had this experience at Dave & Buster's in Hawaii last week and was dumbfounded after I declined a drink where this happened and then was reassured by the manager that conducting "Quality Assurance Testing" in this manner was common practice?

Tom Sietsema: I've never heard of such a thing. I would have returned the cocktail, too! The scene makes me wonder how often said bar tender felt the need to "check" the strength of his work.

Good morning, everyone. Finally, it feels like spring!

An update from the owners of Restaurant Eve in Old Town: Their casual spinoff, Eammon's Chipper, is under construction and expected to open (keep your fingers crossed) this summer, possibly in July. Fish and chips and suds, courtesy of chef Cathal Armstrong, sound like great fun, don't they?

On with the show.

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Lima, Washington, D.C.: Tom,

A couple of friends and I went to Lima last week and I was quite impressed! I would compare the ambiance and culinary ambitions somewhat to Zengo - - while Lima is less influenced by Asian undertones, the main difference lies in execution. Lima's food was DELICIOUS. Expensive, but worth it. The ceviches were incredibly fresh and seasoned with just the right amount of zip from Jalapeno, the lime infused butter a nice surprise, and I ordered the flat iron steak, which was cooked perfectly - - pink on the inside and subtlety seasoned. At first I balked at the prices on the menu, but by the end of the meal, I didn't mind. At Zengo, I found the portions small and more pleasing to the eye than the palette. Also, I was impressed with what they've done with the space at Lima - - very sleek and cool. Service was solid too. What do you think?

Tom Sietsema: I visited Lima early on. Love the space. But the prices and the quality of the cooking, based on a single dinner with friends in tow, didn't quite match up. For $100 a head, I expect more finesse on the plate.

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Del Ray, Alexandria, Va.: Just wanted to share that the manager at Belga Cafe is not telling the truth. We had the exact same charges put on our bill after a nice meal a few months ago. Taking your advice, I got my courage up and asked a MANAGER (not just a waiter) about these and she said, "Yes, it's what we do." I didn't care enough to complain further but it did dampen what had been a fun experience.

Tom Sietsema: Did you catch the manager's name, and was it the woman I spoke to? I interviewed Galia Kaplan twice about the restaurant's policy, and she stated the share charge was rarely used.

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Adams Morgan, Washington, D.C.: Thanks for the recommendation for Masa's in your San Francisco Postcard from Tom. We tried the chef's nine course tasting menu last week and were delighted.

Friends also recommended the Slanted Door at the Ferry Terminal, but we couldn't make it. Does it live up to the local hype?

Tom Sietsema: My food pals in the Bay Area aren't raving about the Slanted Door these days, which is why I lunched at the nearby Hog Island Oyster Co. instead earlier this year. The Slanted Door was PACKED, however, with what looked like lots of tourists.

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Crofton, Md.: Hi, Tom. I thought you might find this interesting. My friend recently visited a Ruth's Chris Steakhouse. His steak came out topped with a butter and parsley mixture. The menu had stated that the steak would have butter, but said nothing about the parsley. My friend doesn't like to eat meat with anything green on it, and just doesn't like parsley. He didn't want a steak covered in it, and because it was mixed with melted butter, he couldn't easily scrape it off. So, he sent it back, asking for a new steak without the parsley. The "new" steak came out, and my friend discovered it was his original steak. The kitchen had scraped off most (but not all) of the parsley and flipped it over on the plate, and then sent it back thinking the diner would not notice!

So, my friend spoke with the manager. The manager was shocked that the kitchen did this, but when asked why the parsley wasn't mentioned on the menu, said, "Well, you can't taste it."

To which my friend responded by asking if they water down high end, $30 a glass scotch. The manager was horrified, and said of course not! And my friend said, why not, you can't taste it.

He made his point. His new steak was comped. (not really the point; he didn't want a free meal, he just wanted what he ordered.)

I have had this issue come up in other restaurants as well. For instance, macaroni grill has a salad on their menu that I love. The ingredients were listed on the menu. I ordered it. It came out loaded with tomatoes (not listed on the menu). I hate tomatoes, and had the menu listed them, i simply would have asked for them to be held. Instead I had to wait while the waiter took the salad back to be remade, as my husband sat there with his meal already before him.

Then the salad came back without the fresh tomatoes and i started eating, only to discover it had sun dried tomatoes! i had to send it back again.

The next TWO times i ordered this salad i specifically said, "please hold the fresh tomatoes AND the sun dried tomatoes" and the waiter would write down "hold all tomatoes" and both times it came out without fresh tomatoes, but with sun dried.

Ridiculous.

Tom Sietsema: If restaurants were required to list every ingredient for every dish, we'd be handed menus the length of "War & Peace."

That said, I sympathize (to a point) with diners who can't seem to get what they want. The best way to head off any unpleasant encounters with ingredients you don't like is to clearly state what those ingredients are when you order. Every time, and twice, if necessary. (Maybe three times will be the charm in your case?)

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Washington, D.C.: Tom, I am headed over to Kinkead's tonight for my birthday. I read your review and it was very helpful. Have you been there lately, and what can I expect in the way of service? Is it weird to ask for a cheaper bottle of wine from a sommelier? And most importantly, what do you recommend I order?

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: There's a new team in the kitchen there, and I have yet to sample its handiwork. But there are some signature dishes you might want to try if you haven't before; they include the fried clams and grilled squid on polenta. Look for a "classics" designation on the menu.

As for ordering wine, give the sommelier as much info as you can on your preferences -- you might want to go online ahead of time and check out the wine list, if it's viewable -- and give him a range. "I'm looking for a (insert your adjective of choice here) white in the $30-$45 range. Could you steer me to a few of your picks?"

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Tom Sietsema: Breaking news (but I'm sworn to secrecy): One of the Washington area's finest talents is poised to become one of Food & Wine's "best chefs." This is a very big deal for the chef and for Washington. We're talking magazine cover and national exposure -- plus a really, really fun trip to Aspen. The formal announcement will be made next Tuesday by the magazine, I'm told.

Let the guessing begin!

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Where are you?: I miss you...

Tom Sietsema: Who is this?

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Washington, D.C.: Small point: What's the FOOD at Gene and Georgetti's like? While it's helpful to know what the regulars call their club (oh wait--no it's not), you didn't actually manage to tell us how the food is.

I love a good story as much as the next guy, but shouldn't food always enter into your reviews somewhere?

washingtonpost.com: Three Classics

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Ashburn, Va.: Morning Tom,Long time lurker, first time poster. Last weekend, eating at an upscale restaurant, I ordered a filet and baked potato. The potato arrived at the same time as the steak, but on a side plate. The server asked if I wanted the potato on the same plate as the steak. I replied yes, she then picked up said spud with her HANDS and placed it on my plate. I was so shocked that I froze and did not even comment. Is this a common practice?

This at place with $125.00 meals for 2! I plan to visit the restaurant manager this week and mention this incident. Not looking for anything free, but an explanation.

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: I hope the spud was really hot (to kill off the germs)!

I doubt that touching a diner's food is common practice at the restaurant in question. But the server clearly committed a faux pas.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

I really love and appreciate this chats. I love to eat out, cook...just about anything having to do with food.

And while I appreciate foie gras and caviar, one of my all time favorite foods is mac and cheese. If done correctly it truly can be gourmet...or at least a fun culinary experience. In your opinion who offers up some of the best and/or unique mac and cheese in the city?

I thought I would also share 2 great dishes I've had recently. At Townhall in Glover Park they have a pork chop w/sauteed apples and amazing mac and cheese (I forget the cheese that they use but it might be gouda). Also T.S. Muttley's on 18th St. has a wonderful mac and cheese with crab meat in it. So Good!!!

Tom Sietsema: There's nothing wrong with a well-made mac 'n' cheese! Thanks for the tips. I have yet to visit either place you mention.

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Arlington, Va.: Tom, just an update from my post a couple weeks ago about the uncomfortable chairs at Sette Bello. The management sent me a very generous gift certificate (I didn't ask for any freebies, by the way) and a nice letter, in which they seemed to take my comments seriously. It's good to come across a restaurant that is receptive to "constructive criticism" from their patrons.

Tom Sietsema: Bravo to Sette Bello! I'm pleased to hear the restaurant responded to you in a timely fashion.

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Chesapeake Beach, Md.: Hey Tom,

Do you think David Craig's menu/food is better than when he was at Black's Bar and Kitchen? I love Black's and didn't know how Craig's compared. Thanks for your dedication to quality foods.

Tom Sietsema: I liked Craig's cooking at Black's, but I like even more his food at David Craig Bethesda. The opening of that restaurant is a boon to the suburb.

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Bay Area: Where would you go if you had time for one lunch and one

dinner in San Francisco?

Tom Sietsema: The food scene there changes from season to season -- and you don't specify a budget -- but right this minute, I'd probably head to Zuni Cafe for lunch (sit downstairs if you can) and Quince for dinner. Michael Tusk, a veteran of the trail-blazing Chez Panisse in Berkeley, cooks at the latter.

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Fairfax, Va.: Hi Tom,

Can you tell me where I can get some really good French Onion Soup?

Tom Sietsema: Close to you, Le Tire Bouchon does a commendable job with its recipe. Believe it or not, Capital Grille in Washington offers a nice version, too, as does Bistro Lafayette in Alexandria.

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washingtonpost.com: The Weekly Dish

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Re: Gene & Georgetti's: I asked about the food because you wierdly don't mention it in the review. Perhaps you could tell us about it here?

Tom Sietsema: Oops, I hit the "send" button too soon there. The food is mostly homey and hearty. Meat is the way to go, of course, but the mussels are pretty good, too. Pastas are simple and straightforward.

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Rockville, Md.: "hold all tomatoes"

I think I should die in poverty before I would ever try to feed people for money. Just not worth it.

Tom Sietsema: Yeah, I'm grateful to be on the other side of the table myself (MOST days, I should add). Last week was particularly brutal.

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Hot potato!: The spud story reminds me of something that happened to me years ago at an airport restaurant in St. Louis. I ordered a half-bottle of wine to go with my steak. The server, a young woman who didn't look old enough to be serving alcohol, ran into trouble opening the bottle, essentially shredding the cork and getting bits in the wine. She looked about ready to cry, so I told her not to worry about bringing another bottle, the bits of cork weren't going to hurt me. She thereupon CLEARED THE REMAINING BITS OF CORK FROM INSIDE THE NECK OF THE BOTTLE WITH HER INDEX FINGER, and proudly poured me a glass. I didn't have the heart to protest, figuring she would probably become suicidal at that point, and gambled (successfully) that the alcohol would kill whatever germs may have been on her finger.

Tom Sietsema: Funny!

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

I just wanted to start off this morning on a good note- last night I ate at Cashion's, and I'm telling you, that place is consistently delicious, with great service (no I do not work there). I think the food is always superior, the atmosphere intimate and the service is great. We had the most delicious bottle of wine recommended from our server, apparently its one of the owner's favorites. Follow that with a light salad of grapefruit and avocado, and ending with duck with a pomegranate glaze-- just delicious. Just wanted to acknowledge a neighborhood restaurant where I've always had a wonderful dining experience. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Ann, did you catch that?

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Straw in drink:: The bartender doesn't then put the straw back into the drink. They use a clean straw, put their finger on to to cause suction, take a sip and discard the straw. This happens quite frequently. They are testing the drink to determine if it needs a little more of this or that to make it perfect for you.

Tom Sietsema: I guess I'm not watching my bar tenders close enough ...

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Bethesda, Md.: Hi Tom, I was invited on a free trip to San Juan, PR at the end of next month. Have you ever been there to recommend a good place to eat that serves good food and local atmosphere?

Tom Sietsema: Altogether now, chatters: "Check out the Postcard archives!"

There's a link in the intro to this chat, by the way.

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Boston, Mass.: I'm a bartender and the experience of the first poster is pretty typical. The straw test is completely sanitary and used to make sure the strength or taste of the drink is right on. Its bad form to actually do it in front of a customer, but it is by no means unusual.

Tom Sietsema: Makes sense to me. And come to think of it, I think I HAVE seen this done before ...

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Washington, D.C.: Hey Tom! Used to love the chats! Ever consider changing the title from "Ask Tom" to "Tell Tom"? It would fit more in with the grievance-airing theme the chats have taken on.

Now that that's out of the way, let me tell you what happened last time I was at Ray's the Steaks....

Tom Sietsema: No more Tom bashing.

No more Ray bashing.

No more ... Geez, can't we all just get along here?

Okay, just whisper in my ear what happened to you at Ray's ...

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Downtown D.C.: Tom, I have a solution to last week's complaints about butter in D.C. restaurants: simply stick the too-cold pot of butter in the too-warm glass of wine.

Two birds w/one stone.

Tom Sietsema: You CRACK ME UP. I love! I love it!

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Washington, D.C.: Mr. Sietsema, I wanted to share a wonderful restaurant experience I had last week. I made a reservation at Notti Bianche on OpenTable, and in the comments section, I mentioned that it was for our anniversary. We had a delicious dinner, and when we were leaving, our server presented us with an anniversary card signed by each of the staff! It was a really nice touch. We will certainly be back.

Tom Sietsema: Nice idea! It makes for a positive final impression, doesn't it?

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Washington, D.C.: You have a hot date and you are trying to choose between Makoto (perhaps the tasting menu) or Mini Bar. What would Tom do?

Tom Sietsema: The upside to Minibar: Your date will be impressed that you scored such a tough reservation. The downside: The food really demands your full attention.

The upside to Makoto: Beautiful Japanese food in a serene setting. The downside: If you're not at the sushi bar, you have to sit on one of those less-than-comfortable box stools.

So I guess it depends on what you want more (or less).

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Washington, D.C.: Tom! Why are portions so big lately? I know that restaurants think that big portions make them more money, but I find that I hardly ever order appetizers, salad or soup anymore as the portion sizes make them meals in themselves. Ergo I spend LESS when I eat out now than I used to. It seems like most of my friends feel the same way so I know I am not alone in this. What do you think?

Tom Sietsema: Regular readers know I detest (well, dislike) large portions. Some of the titanic plates that come from area kitchens are just plain vulgar, in my opinion. No one needs that much food.

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Falls Church, Va.: Help Tom!! I'm leaving for New Orleans tomorrow a.m. Can you recommend a great spot for lunch? Thanks so much!

Tom Sietsema: Herbsaint is first-rate. Go, go, go. Have a Sazerac and think of me.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom, I'm getting kind of stressed out. As you probably know, graduation season is upon us (Georgetown, May 20.). Added to my post-grad plans stress, I'm also stressing about making dinner reservations for my family and friends that weekend. Looking for a fun and accommodating, reasonably priced place with enough special-occasion potential to please both grads and parents. I'm thinking we may need to think outside of the Georgetown box here? Any ideas you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: What about a picnic? Assemble a meal from the menus at Breadline, Two Amys, Galileo's grill, Kaz Sushi Bistro, Islander Caribbean -- or wherever you like to eat that offers food to go -- and find a nice grassy area near the water.

If you need a restaurant, DO think outside the G'town box. Try an Ethiopian restaurant, the roof at Bistro Tabaq, the roof at Straits of Malaysia, tapas at Jaleo ...

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Fort Washington, Md.: Tom: High on my list of peeves are waiters who bring me a drink with their hands on the rim of the glass. A close second is placing my knife, fork and spoon on the table when the table is not covered with a table cloth. Please pass the word.

Tom Sietsema: Consider the word passed.

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Re: Makoto: A tiny quibble, Tom. I love, love, love Makoto, but even at the sushi bar, you have to sit on the little box.

Tom Sietsema: You do, that's right. My bad. The view is more interesting, though!

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Washington, D.C.: Tom,

please post this, I'm dying to hear what my customers actually think of napkin refolding. why, when we servers try our best to create a sanitary, safe, germ-free environment for you to enjoy your meal, why would you possibly want us going from table to table, touching everyone's napkin, and therefore mouth, passing germs steadily around the room. i have had to ask servers not to touch my napkin, even tried refolding it myself to head them off. i will replace a napkin when necessary, which is plenty, but refolding? why ? why? anyone?

Tom Sietsema: I've looked into this issue before. Germ transmission is minimal if the server's hands are dry, just so you know. But maybe we can hear from any servers out there who do this?

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'Tell Tom': I prod because I love! I want to hear your opinions and insights on things, not the malcontented ravings of the great unwashed, vis a vis, who has hard seats, who had to wait 20 minutes for a table, who thinks there's just too much damn food served to you these days, or whatever minor slight has put a bee in their bonnet this week.

And nothing happened at Ray's except some really kick-ass food. I just put that in because I knew it would increase my chances of getting posted. <3

Tom Sietsema: Well, hon, I can't MAKE UP questions and comments here. I take -- and answer -- what I get. Isn't this forum intended (in part) to dispense dining information? Scroll up, and you'll find some morsels to chew on.

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THAI FOOD (Please respond): Hey Tom,

What Thai place would you recommend in DC? Please, please, please, make my day!

Tom Sietsema: In the District? I think Rice and Thai Regent both do nice jobs with the cuisine.

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Dupont, Washington, D.C.: Tom, I know you are loving Restaurant Eve and CityZen right now, but do you have any other suggestions for gastronomic epiphanies that maybe aren't quite as formal or expensive? More along the lines of Cashion's? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: David Craig Bethesda, Rasika, Tabard Inn, Atlantico -- each has a subtle "wow" factor these days.

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Dupont Circle: Have you reviewed Viridian yet? What are you thoughts?

Tom Sietsema: I was poised to review the place when Sidra Forman called me to say she was decamping to Vegetate. There's a new chef, from Bistro Bis, in the kitchen now.

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Washington, D.C.: My goodness we've become a nation of whiny little germophobes!

But other than that, I did have a point - I second the Herbsaint recommendation (native New Orleanian here), and DO NOT PASS UP the chance to have their banana butter tart. I don't even like bananas, and that was the best dessert I have ever had, bar none.

Tom Sietsema: LOVE the banana tart. I had it earlier this month.

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Tabaq on U Street: Someone wrote in about the food being cold. My wife and I went for dinner two weeks ago (Saturday Night) and enjoyed everything about the place except for the fact that the sides on our entrees were cold. The chicken and fish were hot, but the mashed and rice accompanying them were cold (I mean not even warm). The darkened space is kind a cute up on the top because it enables one to see the night sky better. I liked it, but will get a manager and before ordering next time and demand that the entire plate contain hot food, not just half the plate.

Tom Sietsema: Hot food should be hot and cold food should be served cold. I wonder if part of the problem at Tabaq is the food "elevator" used to ferry dishes from lower kitchen to higher dining room.

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Rockville, Md.: Hi, Tom. Submitting early for a meeting across town...I need help! My parents are visiting from Texas and my mother is obsessed with crabcakes. Can you tell me of several places (they'll be here 10 days and I'm sure we'll be eating out at least half of those days) with the best crabcakes. Price doesn't really matter, but my parents aren't bringing any "nice" clothes (dad will have a pair of khakis, not sure about mom). Any part of town is fine, and I plan on taking them to Baltimore and Annapolis.

Thanks- your chats are great for us transplants!

Tom Sietsema: In this part of the world, your mom could eat crab cakes every day for 10 days and barely put a dent in the mountain of possibilities.

Among the many places I've enjoyed crab cakes in the past few years: O'Leary's in Annapolis, Tasting Room in Frederick, Jerry's Seafood in PG County, BlackSalt in DC, Tallulah in Arlington, Bonefish Grill (with multiple locations in NoVa), Urban Bar-b-Que (really!) in Rockville, Mark and Orlando's in Dupont Circle and Johnny's Half Shell, also in Dupont.

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Dining options near Strathmore: Hi Tom, here's hoping 3rd time's the charm -- it's my last chance before my wife's birthday. I'm taking her to Strathmore for a concert but would like your recommendations for any good dining options nearby. Doesn't need to be fancy -- we just love good food in any atmosphere.

Thanks Tom!

Tom Sietsema: Try the charming Black Market Bistro in Garrett Park. A seat at the counter is always entertaining. The number: 301-933-3000. An alternative is Addie's in Rockville, but it's really tough to get a reservation there. The place is popular and tiny. The number: 301-881-0081.

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Chicago, Ill.: Recent transplants from DC, and I'm still addicted to your chats -- thanks! I saw in today's Food section that Peter Chang is no longer at TemptAsian. We loved that place when he was there (we only ate from his menu) and were planning to visit it when we come home for a wedding in two weeks. Will that wonderful menu still be offered? Will it be the same? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: I can't say. But Chang is now at China Gourmet -- soon to be rechristened Szechuan Boy -- and if you want his skilled cooking, that's the place to go.

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Babysitter hours, Md.: I just wanted to send a personal thanks to the front crew at a very busy DC hotspot last Saturday night (not giving the name out to protect them from wrath).

My husband and I arrived at 8:45pm & were told that it would be a 45 minute wait for a table. At my disappointed expression, the hostess said, "that's not very long". I responded, "Of course, you're right. It's just long in babysitting hours." I fully intended to leave at this point. But, then another manager at the desk said, "We'll work something out." Sure enough, they bumped us to the front of the list & seated us 2 minutes later! Wow! I totally did not expect that level of service. To the other patrons waiting, there was little impact, since we ate quickly (great food!) & were out in 30 minutes. But, to us, that was a big and wonderful surprise.

So, thanks for saving us from babysitter wrath! I didn't expect that throwaway line to have such a positive result -- so I promise not to abuse that in the future.

Tom Sietsema: Uh oh. I can't feel the anger swelling from the masses as I type!

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RE: Straw: Tom,

Definitely a common practice in the biz. Should be clarified that it is usually done with a small swizzle straw - not a regular drinking straw. The person from Tex. needs to relax - what's the big deal? No one touches the actual drink liquid when it is done on this manner.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for replying. Let's end the "straw in the drink" discussion here.

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Alexandria, Va.: Hi, Tom. I always enjoy your restaurant reviews and your chats, especially the review of the three restaurants in last Sunday's magazine. But pray tell, what entree on Gene and Georgetti's menu could possibly be worth $69.75, unless it's for more than one person? Expiring minds want to know!

Tom Sietsema: I debated running the actual top price, because it is so out of line with the rest of the menu. But $69 is what you pay for a seafood extravaganza (sorry, I don't have the menu in front of me right now).

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Strathmore dining: Just to warn the concert-goer: neither Black Market Bistro nor Addie's take reservations on Friday or Saturday night. We had a lovely meal at BMB a while back, but waited over an hour rather than the 20-30 estimated by the hostess. Go early, or pick somewhere else if you want to get to your concert on time.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the caution.

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Baghdad, Iraq: Hi Tom. I'm currently serving in Iraq and looking forward to going back home to Chicago in a couple weeks for some leave time. I'd like to treat my family to a nice dinner out - what do you think of TRU? Or Alinea - I haven't been there since 2004, would you still recommend it? Thanks for your advice!

Tom Sietsema: Hello, soldier!

Alinea is a newbie -- and really exciting. Tru has been around a few years. I vote for Alinea. But Chicago is packed with great places to eat, including the new Custom House. Let me know if you need more recs next chat.

The lunch bell is ringing. Thanks, all.

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