Luxury Retail in Washington

Georgetown and Tysons Galleria are no longer the only place for Washingtonians in search of high-fashion as the Collection at Chevy Chase becomes the latest incarnation of New York City's Fifth Avenue -- home to such couture shops as Dior, Jimmy Choo and Louis Vuitton.

Washington Post Staff Writer Ylan Q. Mui was online to discuss luxury retail in the Washington area on Monday, March 27 at 2 p.m. ET .

A transcript follows .

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Ylan Mui: Hello everyone! Thank you so much for joining me this afternoon, and I hope that you all enjoy the chat. Fire away!

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D.C.: Is this really a story here since Chevy Chase is an affluent neighborhood? Wouldn't you thus expect high end retailers to locate there? I would think this would be more of a story if Jimmy Choo opened up in PG County.

Ylan Mui: There's no doubt that Chevy Chase is one of the region's richest neighborhoods -- that's no surprise. The question is more like, "What took so long?" You would think that it having such a high income level, that the area would've had lux retailers a long time ago. But it hasn't. So the fact that it's opening now is pretty significant.

As for PG, I'm getting a lot of questions about retail in that county, which I'll answer in a bit!

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Hyattsville, Md.: I really enjoyed the Post's article on this subject. What really struck me was the map accompanying the piece. I looked at the distribution of high-income households in Prince George's County and both my husband and I (I'm from St. Louis he's from Denver) thought "Gosh, if Prince George's were in those cities, they'd have high-end retailers beating down the door." Maybe not Prada and Coach and such, but certainly more than we've got now. I would just love for a Post reporter to ask quality retailers "why not Prince George's?"

washingtonpost.com: Map: Where the Money Is

Ylan Mui: Yes, we often hear residents of PG County complain about the lack of quality retail there. That could be the subject of an entire series! In fact, we wrote a front-page story a year ago about PG's somewhat futile attempts to woo retailers and developers at an annual conference in Vegas.

The thing is the money is one of the most important factors when developers consider what type of retail to bring into an area, but it's not the only factory. There's density as well -- places like Middleburg are rich, but are just too small. And there's also a host of logisitical issues that can make or break a development deal. For example, one of the key factors that helped make The Collection at Chevy Chase possible was that each retailer got its own storefront facing the street. Seems insignificant, but not everyone could make that happen. (Think about it: It means you need a nice street, parking would have to be configured differently, lighting, sidewalks, etc.)

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D.C.: Jimmy Choo? Luxury retail? What's so luxurious about expensive shoes that give you bunyons and ankle problems?

Ylan Mui: *lol* No one ever said fashion was painless!

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Bethesda, Md.: Do you think they gave a thought to the actual people who live in the Friendship Heights area -- or to the fact that this land is one block from a Metro stop and should have been used for high density housing?

Ylan Mui: Well, whether or not the land should be used for high-density housing is something people can debate!

But what I can tell you is that the developers gave a lot of thought to the fact that plenty of peole *work* in Friendship Heights. In fact, the development includes a 260,000 square foot, eight story building next door to The Collection that will be used for office space. Clyde's is a big draw for the lunch-time crowd as well.

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Clifton, Va.: One area you neglected to mention is upscale butcher shops with prime, organic dry aged beef, veal and pork. Folks pay $20 a pound for organic loin lamb chops and $25 for rib eye steaks. I paid $5.99 a lb for organic ground beef for burgers. And then there is organic non homegnized milk from the Chrome Dairy for $10 a gallon. You can taste the difference. All the beef is from local suppliers and Chrome Dairy is in PA.

Ylan Mui: Um, this is making me hungry! But then, everything makes me hungry. :)

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Georgetown rumors: Any truth to the rumors that Emporio Armani and Neiman Marcus may be coming to Georgetown?

Ylan Mui: I haven't heard that, but that's a good tip if true! Chatters?

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washingtonpost.com: Prince George's Makes Sales Pitch For High-End Retail , June 1, 2005

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Washington, DC: Are there any plans for a high-end shopping district in downtown DC?

Ylan Mui: Well, it took MAJOR work for the city to develop the Gallery Place/Chinatown/MCI Center area into what it is today. Many retailers were afraid to come into the city, and luxury retailers aren't known for taking risks in that regard. Right now, it remains a Banan Republic/Urban Outfitters kind of place.

But there are a few high-end shops downtown. Thomas Pink has a store very south of Dupont, there's Rizik's, the Grooming Lounge, just to name a few. I was at a meeting of DC developers not too long ago, and they're trying to lay out a broad strategy for development within the city. They didn't mention super high-end retail then, but I wouldn't rule it out.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi. Thanks for taking my question.

I love shopping and make a decent professional income working in DC. Nonetheless, I was pushed out of the city - far out - 2 years ago because home prices have become ridiculous here. I was disappointed that the high-end shopping article did not explore the idea that the recent proliferation of luxury boutiques in the DC area is evidence of the widening gap between the haves and the "don't really haves" here. The boom has not reached everyone here, and I'm not just talking about lower-income people. Many of us, whose incomes would have been considered very comfortable even 5 years ago, feel quite left behind.

Ylan Mui: This is a good point. The region's wealth has been rising, but it seems like costs of everything from houses to organic beef (see previous posting) have been rising right along with it! But clearly these retailers feel that there is at least enough money for them to be successful. Remember -- several of the names in The Collection have already made inroads in the Washington area (like Tiffany's and Cartier, which just moved across the street).

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Washington, D.C.: Do you think the market can sustain these 2 luxury retail areas, and if so, can there be additional areas that may support luxury retail?

Ylan Mui: I think you'll see increasingly upscale retail push farther and farther out into the suburbs as the region's population pushes farther out into the suburbs, in Loudoun County and Howard County especially.

Now, as to whether The Collection itself will be a success, I don't want to make any predictions. But I think it is safe to say that it's still early in the game -- all the stores haven't even opened yet!

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Mt. Rainier, Md.: Poor Michelle Singletary! She probably stroked out reading about people with such trifling ways of spending huge money. Not only trifling, but boring. How many fancy $1000 bags can one woman carry? What more will the expensive bag do that my cheap one won't? These sad people have such a lack of imagination in their lives to fall for this kind of marketing. What a joyless existence to flit around looking for one more pair of really expensive shoes. Just reading about it gave me ennui and depression. Where's the thrill of seeing your money DO something?

Ylan Mui: Just thought I'd post this comment for you all to read.

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Fairfax, Va.: This makes me feel sick! With so many people in our world having so little, to glorify wretched excess consumption seems a pretty disgusting thing to do. To build our nation's economy on consumption of things we do not need, at the expense of our earth's natural economy, is godawful, but that's what we're doing. How about if some of the people who have so much to spend find ways to spend it on service to others?

Ylan Mui: Another similar thought. I think this is part of the reason that these types of retailers have taken so long to come to Washington in particular. The collective consciousness of the city is not focused on fashion, for better or for worse.

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Washington, D.C.: I moved to DC from NYC about 4 years ago where I worked in advertising, now I am at a University. I would really love to work in the fashion industry. What does D.C. have to offer in terms of job opportunities? i.e. I just learned of the Aba Agency from your article. Sounds like an awesome job.

Ylan Mui: Anyone have any help for this aspiring fashion insider?

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Washington, D.C.: I heard this weekend that Lacoste was soon coming to Chevy Chase. Can you tell me if you know of any new shops coming to that neighborhood?

Ylan Mui: Lacoste is indeed opening up in Chevy Chase! Saw the construction myself last week.

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Silver Spring, MD: Looking at the map, I can see another concentration of high income people in the Silver Spring area. Now that people realize that there is that income base in that area as well, do you think that more middle and high-end retailers will be knocking each other over to get street-level retail in the downtown area (such as what's happening with DSW and American Apparel moving in)?

Ylan Mui: Silver Spring certainly has seen a great deal of revitalization. Also, if you look at the income map, remember that it's from the 2000 Census, so it's pretty dated. (But it's among the most reliable data that we had, so that's what we used.)

Check out this story about retail in Silver Spring and the fate of City Place written by Christian Davenport a few weeks ago:

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2006/03/12/AR2006031201413.html

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Clifton, Va.: Malls in NOVA that are accessible by Metro have loss rates that are 30-50% higher than Tyson and Fair Oaks which aren't Metro accessible. 60% of those arrested for shoplifting are from PG County. Now why would you locate in PG County if you were an upscale mercahnt and your customers from PG will commute to NOVA or CC?

Ylan Mui: Interesting data. If you have more thoughts on this or similar data, I'd love to talk to you more! E-mail me at muiy@washpost.com.

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Washington, D.C.: Do you really think people in D.C. are like those in NYC, Beverley Hills, Vegas in terms of consumption behavior? I don't think the main issue should be absolute wealth/income bracket...I think the pressures of maintaining a certain image is more prevalent in cities other than D.C. Other than some people in the political crowd and trappings of great wealth, somehow I just don't see the average gov't worker or young professional in D.C. running out to buy $2000 handbags and $600 shoes.

Bottom line: Just because you have money doesn't mean you want to buy all those things.

Ylan Mui: Very good point. There are plenty who would argue that D.C. is changing, that we are becoming more NYC-like in our habits and tastes. Witness the clubs along 7th Street that take 107387123487 hours to get into, the revival of 14th Street, the sudden proliferation of magazines focused on DC style.

But deep that runs, well, we'll have to find out! Again, one has to imagine that a retailer would not open a second store in the area unless the first were doing well. Dior and Jimmy Choo (and perhaps Bulgari?) are the new stores in The Collection. But there are other locations of Barneys Co-op, Tiffany's, Louis, Gucci, etc.

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Washington, D.C.: I agree with Mt. Ranier and Fairfax - the article was horribly depressing! How I wish DC would learn that a few more upscale shops are not going to help the city's problems. In fact - in the long run - it's likely to hurt. I'd love to see more progressive retail - co-ops for example - instead of more of this excessive waste.

Ylan Mui: Another post for thought:

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Dupont Circle, D.C.: I earn a decent living and was considering working with a personal shopper at Saks or some other higher end store to help me further develop my personal/professional wardrobe. How much do you typically need to spend to work with a personal shopper?

Ylan Mui: Good question, and one that unfortunatley I don't know the answer to. (Clearly, I don't have a personal shopper at Saks!) However, I have heard that Nordstrom is secretly amazing with this, and I don't believe there's a spending requirement.

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Chevy Chase Village, Md.: Is it true that the small shopping center on Connecticut Ave. and Manor Rd. in Chevy Chase will also be transform into a super luxed shopping center like the Collection at Chevy Chase?

Ylan Mui: Here's an answer from our commercial real estate reporter, Dana Hedgpeth:

I don't know about "super luxury" but they are going to become something. This is the shpping center where there's the T.W. perry hardware store, a hair salon and a family grocer.

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Arlington, Va.: Hello and thanks for taking our questions.

My question is about the fate of so-called "Mom and Pop" jewelry shops. I used to get really nice custom jewelry (not super-expensive, but just made to order, i.e., pick the stones pick the setting, etc., in the shop) at a store in Georgetown. The place is now gone and I can't locate the jeweler anywhere - Mr. Kaufman.

Are these independent jewelers disappearing in general due to the influx of high-end franchises?

It's time for me to purchase some important jewelry and I'm searching for this kind of service. Does it still exist at "reasonable" prices? and if so, how might a prospective customer go about locating (getting a recommendation) a jeweler that will help the customer design a non-traditional, but classy engagement ring?

Many thanks.

Ylan Mui: Wow, a pretty detailed question! But as a recently engaged woman myself, I feel bound to try to answer it and help you out!

To be honest, the only small jeweler I know of is Tiny Jewel Box in Dupont Circle. You might want to give them a try. Good luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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D.C.: Is there a fear that these high-end shoppers are part of the transient D.C. population? Or if they are, is there a belief that they will continue to turn-over?

Ylan Mui: I don't think they fear the transient high-end shoppers! I think they're trying to woo them! In fact, when I spoke to one of the execs at Dior, she mentioned that their analysis showed they had clients who kept a house in D.C. -- among several others across the world. The international crowd, the embassy crowds, they're even hoping to become a sort of shopping destination for tourists.

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Southwest D.C.: Since the Collection at Chevy Chase is just beyond the District line, I wondered if the luxury retailers you talked with expressed a preference for locating in the District or in Maryland when they decided to go on Wisconsin Avenue?

Ylan Mui: Got another question along these lines as well. I think part of the reason that it went in Maryland and not D.C. is that there was an empty, available building that the developers had been looking to lease for a long time. Part of it was simply practical.

But let's be real, it's not always easy to do business with the city, and that can be a big factor in determining where developments go and if they happen at all. I think the District is working to change that and is focused on retail and revitalization, but it will take time.

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Washington, D.C.: Do you know if the Chevy Chase Dior store stocks items for men such as leather goods and clothing?

Ylan Mui: No, it is a women's boutique only. Sorry!

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Tiny Jewel Box: I second that rec. My husband got my engagement ring there and it is stunning and they custom made it. They also have a huge collection of estate stuff. But note, it is NOT in Dupont Circle.

Ylan Mui: Just FYI for the soon-to-be-engaged guy. Ok, so technically it's not inside the circle itself, but you can take the Dupont Circle stop and exit on the south side and just walk down a few blocks!

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Bethesda, Md: My wife was recently interviewed at one of the stores you mentioned in the Collection, and is waiting to hear back from corporate in NYC to see if she is selected. She has a lot of retail experience in the malls here, and is frankly thrilled about the prospect of working the high-end. Infact, she's one of the ones you mentioned who goes to New York to shop! My question is: Do you think people will change their habits, and stay here to shop?

There's still something overwhelmingly exciting about shopping in NYC. I'm sorry to say that, as I grew up here in Chevy Chase and used to go shopping as a child at "Tweeds n' Things" with my mother on the very same spot these stores now inhabit, but Friendship Heights is never going to be a magnet for the super wealthy.

Ylan Mui: New York is *the* hub for retail, there's no doubt about that. (Well, one could argue that it's really Bentonville, but that's another chat!) But there's a reason that the annual meeting of the National Retail Federation is in NYC. But Washington area consumers definitely have more choices now when it comes to high-end shopping than they did 10 years ago.

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Friendship Heights: Why didn't Chevy Chase rate a full-sized Hermes boutique? The selection at Neiman Marcus is limited, and Tyson's is too far away. WE WANT HERMES!

Ylan Mui: Ok, there you have it!

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About the DC Style Mags: I am all for more wickedly expensive and luxurious stores (got to have someplace to window shop) but I kinda emphasize with the progressives that were complaining earlier (not to the point of co-ops though). I've lived in D.C. for nearly 20 years and it's a helluva town. It's also Hollywood for ugly people (definitely not my words). It's erudite and passionate and.... it's amazing. Does the influx of upscale shopping means we have to turn into New York or LA? What about Portland and Seattle and San Francisco and even Philadelphia -- cities with well-heeled locales that aren't some soulless money-eating machine? Is it possible that as D.C. grows we don't become a mini-New York?

Ylan Mui: I do love San Francisco ...

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Washington, D.C.: I wonder how The Collection will fare. There's a reason they've waited this long to make a presence in D.C. In Hong Kong, there is a Prada, Gucci, Armani on what seems like every 5 blocks! Then again, it appears that both locals and tourists can't get enough. Varying consumer preference really makes a difference. I wonder if enough brand conscious people in the DC area have a reason to buy these brands.

Ylan Mui: More good comments ...

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Engagement Ring: Try Limon's in Bethesda

Ylan Mui: Soon-to-be-engaged guy, you're getting a lot of help!

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Silver Spring, Md.: I think the good residents of PG county should count themselves lucky that those retailers haven't roosted near them. Wealth is not built by owning shoes that cost hundreds of dollars per pair.

Ylan Mui: Lots of you guys have comments!

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Washington D.C.: For the Dupont Circle chatter:

There is no minimum spending amount required for you to use the services of a personal shopper at Saks. But be warned...you can get pretty carried away with all their excellent suggestions! I had a personal shopper with Saks up in NYC and spent on average $20,000/season (I was working in finance where I had to maintain a certain image). You just set up a consultation with them and the personal shopper will keep charge it directly onto your charge card. They also deliver items to you (at work, if you wish).

Ylan Mui: For the person ISO a personal shopper, here's your answer from another chatter:

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Montgomery County, Md.: I know that your time might be running out with us, but I was wondering if you think that the fact that this collection of high-end retailers is not in an enclosed mall, but outside facing the street is any sign of the future of retail in our area. With so many malls within 5 miles of the Collection (and with the Mazza Gallerie right down the street), it seems that the stores went out of their way NOT to be in a mall, and become part of the street life.

Ylan Mui: Your hunch is right on. One of the big trends in malls is, well, not being a mall. People are looking for more "town center"-type experiences. They want something that feels a little more neighborly.

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Ylan Mui: Thanks to everyone for some really great questions and comments! I hope you enjoyed the chat. I certainly did! And final shout-out to soon-to-be-engaged guy, good luck once again! Hope she likes the ring!

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