The Food Section
of the Washington Post
Wednesday, May 17, 2006; 1:00 PM
A chat with the Food section staff is a chance for you to ask questions, offer suggestions and share information with other cooks and food lovers. It is a forum for discussion of food trends, ingredients, menus, gadgets and anything else food-related.
Each chat, we will focus on topics from the day's Food section . You can also read the transcripts of past chats . Do you have a question about a particular recipe or a food-related anecdote to share? The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET. Read about the staff of the Food section .
The transcript follows.
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Judith W.: Hi everybody. Lots of reactions to the 100 calorie snack story coming at me via email, but we'd like to know what you think of them too. Do you like the convenience and control of these already-measured-for-you treats? Or do you prefer real food snacks? Tell us how you deal with snack attacks. And we'd also love to hear your favorite picnic recipes and strategies. Waiting for today's winners are: Cooking from the Heart of Spain, by Janet Mendel and Big Sky Cooking by Meredit Brokaw and Ellen Wright. Great recipes in both, the first from the La Mancha region of Spain, the second from the American West, especially Montana. Winners will be posted toward the end of the chat.
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Washington, D.C.: Thank you for writing about the 100 calorie packs! Sure, if you really want Wheat Thins, they come in a convenient carrying case and you're not opening an entire box. But you're still hungry an hour later. As you say, they are mostly empty calories. I liken these packs to fat-free cookies; they are made "healthier" so it's okay to eat them all the time. Reach for a 60 calorie pack--an apple.
Judith W.: Glad to be of service Washington. Appreciate your reaction. There are a lot of pros and cons to these packs, and they're certainly successful.But to me the more healthful snacks--the peanut butter on apple slices kind of thing--are much more likely to make you feel less hungry.
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No more softshells ??? Say it isn't so !!!: This new policy at Whole Foods about not selling live softshells is ridiculous. I went there this weekend (before I knew about this new policy) to buy some (I wanted to try Patrick O'Connell's recipe which you ran in last week's food section) & I was told some customers complained because they saw the crabs being "cleaned" and considered it cruel. So those few loud jerks had to go and ruin it for the rest of us ??? This is Washington, people ! This is one of our favorite local summer foods. These are probably the same people who buy crabcakes. People have become so disconnected to where their food comes from. Do they think it just comes from a factory wrapped in cellophane?
How does a chicken raised in a 13 x 10 box live a better life than a crab,who gets to swim around with its friends. and do these nuts realize that chickens are slaughtered - and yes they bleed. A lot more messy than a softshell crab being cleaned, sauteed, and becoming a delicious meal !
Candy: You raise some good points. Interestingly, I talked about this policy today on Post Radio (WTWP--107.7) and the host of the show said basically the same thing. I think people object to seeing the animals killed in front of them. Buying those chicken breasts wrapped in cellophane is much more impersonal--no one thinks about that chicken's last moments. But Whole Foods wants to be a compassionate, concerned corporate citizen and they feel this is a necessary step.
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Washington, D.C.: Re the issue of soft-shell crabs, I don't understand where the "cruelty" is. Any frozen crabs sold will have been cleaned in the same way as the fresh ones -- is it less cruel if the cleaning is done at an anonymous facility, or is the cleaning itself not the issue? Really, we ar so far removed from the source of our food in general that it is a good thing to know how food is prepared for cooking, whether animal or vegetable.
Candy: As I told the previous chatter, you make good points.
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Raleigh, N.C.: The recipe today for the company chicken breasts in the charming piece about Tom's mother says to "cut the boneless chicken breasts in half". Do they get pounded? It seems that the huge chicken breasts now for sale would be too thick to wrap up the butter using the method described.
Bonnie: Charming indeed. Tom's mother's recipe calls for 2 whole boneless skinless chix breasts, cut in half (so that you end up with 4 generous individual breast halves/servings. No pounding necessary, he says; they're kinda fat to roll up, but roll up they will. On his chat this morning, he reports 2-breast packages are available at some Whole Foods Markets.
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Arlington, Va.: Submitting early - may not have time during the chat...
Despite some of the complaints you sometimes get during your chats I appreciate that you are accomodating to vegetarians in your food section as I have been one for over 10 years. For todays paper, I have a suggestion and observation.
Suggestion: you really need to put something in your Pan Bagnat a la Grecque that isn't more coleslaw. I'd suggest a white bean salad, perhaps with some additional feta (it is already in the coleslaw).
Observation: used to be that meat was used to refer to animal flesh of any sort (except by some to exclude fish) and now it seems to just refer to mammal meat. Not sure why, maybe Atkins? The dictionay definitions still say animal flesh (generally with a caveat for common usage). Anyhow, using the term "protein" instead, as you did, makes a recipe seem less about food, flavor, and pleasure. I find this is occuring more often and am a bit distressed about it. Happens wit "carbs" too. Sorry about the rant!
Bonnie: Arlington, we'll miss you. Chef David H. gives your input two snaps up. He says "that is a fine suggestion about the beans, but the cole slaw is really more of a vegetarian salad than a slaw. If I were just making the bagnats vegetarian, I would add more French beans, tomatoes, oilves and feta. Also, some of the German potato salad in the sandwich would be excellent."
I can attest: it is killer potato salad. That smoked paprika.
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Vienna, Va.: Hi! I have 10 eggs sitting in the fridge. They are going to expire in a week. I don't care for eggs in any plain breakfast form, but I can't bear to waste these! Any suggestions as to how I can use them up? Thanks.
Candy: Angel food cake! It's light and wonderful (and fat-free!)and would be delicious with the strawberries that are coming into season right now. Best of all, it takes 9 egg whites.
Here's a good recipe from Mark Bittman's "How To Cook Everything"
Angel Food Cake
1 cup cake flour, sifted (do not use all-purpose flour; cake flour is found in the baking aisle, usually sold in boxes)
1 1/2 cups sugar
9 egg whites
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cream of tartar (a white powder that helps the egg whites get stiff during beating; sold in the baking aisle of most supermarkets or with the spices)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
Sift together the flour and 1/2 cup of the sugar. Repeat.
Beat the eggw whites with a beater or in a standing mixer until foamy. Add the salt and cream of tartar and continue to beat until they hold soft peaks--the tops of the whites should droop a little bit when you remove the beaters. Beat in the remaining sugar and vanilla and almond extracts and continue to beat until the peaks become a little stiffer.
Gradually and gently fold in the flour mixture, using a rubber spatula, just until you can no longer see any streaks of flour. Turn the batter into an UNGREASED 9- or 10-inch tube pan (not one with ridged sides) and bake 45 minutes to 1 hour or unti cake is firm and nicely browned.
Invert the cake pan onto a rack and let cool for about an hour. Slide a knife around the sides of the cake to release it from the pan; remove the cake from pan. Cool completely before slicing with a serrated knife (a regular knife will cause the cake to compress). Angel food cake is best the day it is made; although day-old slices are wonderful toasted.
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Great Falls, Va.: Walter's article concerning Whole Foods was very disturbing. Whole Foods will no longer sell shell fish which has to be cleaned (killed) on site due to complaints from an unidentified source. Nevertheless, it will continue to sell frozen (previously killed) products. That is pure hypocrisy. Perhaps Whole Foods should get out of the business of selling all fish and meat products and rename it self as Some Foods. Who did the complaining, PETA?
Candy: Great Falls--It was not PETA, according to the company officials who talked to Walter, just some upset consumers who called and emailed.
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Chantilly, Va.: Very interesting story about the 100-calorie snack packs today. What I'm wondering is, how do they stack up nutritionally? Yes, they're 100 cal., but what about fat?
Judith W.: You'd really have to examine each variety to sort that out. In the Ritz Chips pack I'm looking at, there are 3 grams of total fat,but the only ones accounted for are 1.5 grams polyunsaturated fat, and ,5 gram monounsaturated fat. Also 230 milligrams of sodium, and 17 grams total carbs. But here's the deal: these are processed foods designed to help you with your calorie count. If nutrition is a primary concern, I'd stick primarily with real foods, using these as an occasional snack rather than an everyday habit. But I'm sure these packs can be helpful to some people.
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Whites & Roses w/Grilling?: Hi all. I'm normally a very competent wine & food pairer, but I always have trouble in the summer dealing with grilled food (from burgers to brats to steaks to shishkabob) and cold wines. Cold wines, of course, almost always have to be white or rose, because of how bitter tannins taste when cold. So what whites & roses work with those grilled smoky flavors, and the sweet/spicy barbeque rubs & sauces?
Candy: Our wine maven Ben Giliberti says there are many excellent reds that can be served chilled, so you don't have to use whites with red meat. The classic red chilled is Beaujolais Villages and the 2005 vintage will be appearing soon and it supposd to be one of the best ever. If you need it sooner, the 2004 is also really good. The main thing, don't serve it ice-cold. Take it out of the fridge 20 minutes before serving. Another red you might try is Dolcetto from Italy, which also does well chilled. As for the whites, you want one with a full body, like an Alsace Pinot Gris. Two very good ones are Hugel and Trimbach.
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Bethesda, Md.: I made a recipe for stuffed bell peppers that called for "tomato puree". I wasn't sure if that meant tomato paste or sauce, so used tomato paste. It seemed too thick, so I thinked it out with beef broth, and the recipe turned out fine. Any idea what they meant?
Judith W.: Sauce. But you handled it just fine! You made sauce (sort-of).
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Ashburn, Va.: I'm a devoted lurker, but am usually zipping up the Dulles Toll Road toward home when the forum is actually live. Hence, I'm submitting early.
To last week's poster who wanted a salmon recipe, my absolute favorite one was printed in the Post food section more than a decade ago -- October of 1995 to be exact.
SALMON BAKED WITH BRAZILIAN RUB (4 servings)
4 salmon fillets, 5 to 6 ounces each
1/2 large orange, zest and juice only
1/2 large lemon, juice only
Salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon chili powder
1 large garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons butter, melted
In a shallow dish large enough to hold the salmon, combine the juices salt and pepper. Add the salmon, turning to coat with the marinade. Let marinate at room temperature for 20 minutes, turning the fillets once.
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a shallow baking pan with aluminum foil and grease with a little of the melted butter.
In a small dish, combine the orange zest, brown sugar, chili powder and minced garlic. Rub the marinated salmon with the brown sugar mixture. Place in the pan and drizzle with the remaining melted butter.
Bake for 8 to 12 minutes.
Per serving: 327 calories, 10 gm carbohydrates, 107 mg cholesterol, 363 mg sodium, 33 gm protein, 17 gm fat, 5 gm saturated fat
The recipe can be varied. I alternate between orange, lemon and lime juice, or sometimes add a splash of vodka or Grand Marnier. Plus I usually use a combination of orange, lemon and lime zest for added color.
Now to my question. I planted my herb garden last weekend, and this year's batch includes pineapple sage, orange mint, lemon bergamot and scented, edible geraniums. Has anyone ever cooked with bergamot or edible geraniums? Are they more for salad? Thanks for any input!
Candy: Ashburn--Thanks so much for sending the salmon recipe. I can also attest to its popularity at my house. As for your edible flowers--they're best, visually and flavorwise, when fresh. Use them to garnish drinks or toss in salads, but no cooking source we found recommends cooking with them. Here's another cool idea--freeze them in ice cubes for summer drinks.
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Sterling, Va.: I've been trying to incorporate more whole grains in my cooking. I found wheatberry at Balducci's, but don't know what to do with it other than make multi-grain salads. Any suggestions?
Judy H.: Dear Sterling, Hope this doesn't seem like just another multi-grain salad. I think it is delicious, although the wheat berries are easy to undercook.
Wheat Berry and Chickpea Salad With Olives and Feta Cheese
8 servings
Here, the flavors of olives, artichokes, roasted red peppers and feta cheese transport me to a small, sunbaked taverna somewhere overlooking the Mediterranean. Give me a grilled fish and a pitcher of cold white wine, and I would be set.
Wheatberry is the whole grain of wheat, before it has been processed into bran, germ or flour. Some recipes call for soaking the berries before cooking. But I've never had any trouble cooking them in less than an hour in lightly salted water. They have a lightly nutty flavor and are pleasant to chew. They're also relatively inexpensive and readily available in bulk at Whole Foods and health food stores.
This dish can be made up to 3 days ahead without the feta cheese and refrigerated in an airtight container. Add the cheese just before serving.
1 cup wheat berries
Salt
1 cup (cooked or canned) drained and rinsed chickpeas (optional)
2/3 cup crumbled feta cheese
1/2 cup well-seasoned, oil-cured black olives (pits removed), coarsely chopped
1/2 cup coarsely chopped marinated artichokes, drained
1/2 cup coarsely chopped radicchio
1/2 cup coarsely chopped arugula
1/3 cup roasted red peppers, diced
10 cherry or grape tomatoes, halved
Juice from 1/2
lemon
1 1/2
tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
Bring a kettle of water to a boil, then reduce the heat to low so the water stays hot. Place the wheat berries in a small pan, adding a generous pinch of salt. Cover with hot water from the kettle to a depth of half an inch. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to low and cook gently, checking frequently and adding a splash or two of hot water as needed, up to a cup or so in total. The berries are done when all the water has been absorbed and the grains are plump and tender, 45 to 50 minutes. Set aside to cool.
Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the chickpeas, if desired, feta cheese, olives, artichokes, radicchio, arugula, roasted peppers and tomatoes. Add the cooled wheat berries and stir to combine. Add the lemon juice, olive oil and salt and pepper to taste, stirring to combine. Serve at room temperature.
Per serving: 199 calories, 8 g protein, 26 g carbohydrates, 13 g fat, 7 mg cholesterol, 2 g saturated fat, 262 mg sodium, 5 g dietary fiber
Recipe tested by Leigh Lambert; e-mail questions to food@washpost.com
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Silver Spring, Md.: Posting early due to meeting. I would like to buy a kitchen scale and thought you might be a good resource for information on these. Do you have any preference on brands or necessary features? I'd like to keep this fairly inexpensive as I imagine it only being used to measure portions. I've seen some that are digital and analog, also some that will calculate nutritional information, but I don't really know what's good. Thanks for any advice!
Bonnie: Among us, we have digitals:
--The Soehlne scale that has a 5-year guaranteed battery.
--The Frieling scale has a "tare" function that cancels out the weight of a container.
--There's a Weigh of Life scale Rodman's may still carry that had nutritional information. We tested it last year and it worked. (Personally, the nutritional data seemed over the top/Too Much Info for me as the dumb operator.)
--And in the latest Fine Cooking mag, check out the scale with a bumper edge was featured -- something that would keep your rolling items from falling off.
Did all that spill over into the TMI category? You can always find deals/exceptions to the rule, but expect to spend up to $50 to get something of good quality that will last.
washingtonpost.com: Free Range on kitchen scales .
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Washington, D.C.: My boyfriend remembers spargel in the spring from when he lived in Germany. I saw it in the grocery store and would like to make it for him, but I can't find many recipes. Can you help?
Judy H.: Dear Washington, Spargel has passed us by in the food section for the past 29 years. We've never run a recipe. Recipes for spargel, which for those of us who haven't lived in Germany is early white asparagus, are available on line, but we can't vouch for any. Chatters, any suggestions?
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Philadelphia, Penn.: I love this chat! I've been reading it for weeks and would like some ideas from your chatters for an easy chicken curry recipe. My husband and I have been eating Indian food at our favorite restaurant, but I'd like to try making an easy dish at home.
Judith W.: We published this recipe a couple of years ago. It's delicious and genuinely easy. It was developed by Anoop and Sangeeta Mitra, and makes 2 to 3 servings.
Delhi Chicken Curry
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 whole cloves
1 black cardamom pod (may substitute green cardamom pod)
2 to 3 green cardamom pods
1 large red onion, peeled and minced
2 teaspoons minced garlic
2 teaspoons peeled and minced ginger root
8-ounce can tomato sauce or 1 cup canned tomato puree
3 teaspoons curry powder
1/4 teaspoon paprika or deghi mirch* (optional)
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
21/2 to 3 pounds chicken pieces, bone-in
11/4 cups water
Fresh cilantro sprigs (optional garnish)
Slivered fresh ginger root (optional garnish)
In a large, preferably nonstick, skillet over medium heat, heat the oil. Add the cloves, cardamom, onion and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the ginger and cook for 1 more minute. Add the tomato sauce, mix well and cook, stirring occasionally, until the oil begins to separate, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the curry powder and the cayenne, if using, and cook for 1 minute.
Add salt and chicken and stir gently to coat them well with the tomato mixture. Add 1/4 cup of water and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally to evenly cook all the pieces, for 8 to 10 minutes.
Add the remaining 1 cup of water and mix well. Increase the heat to medium-high and bring the curry to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to medium and cook until the chicken is cooked through and the curry begins to thicken slightly, 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the size of the chicken. Sprinkle, if desired, with cilantro and ginger.
Serve with steamed basmati rice or Indian bread. (Or just plain white rice, if that's what you have).
NOTE: Deghi mirch is similar to paprika. It lends a fiery red color to foods without adding heat.
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Fairfax, Va.: Do you have any ideas for making fresh peas other than the usual boil and toss with melted butter? I bought a couple pounds of them at my farmers market, but I'm tired of my old recipe.
Judy H.: Hi, Fairfax. I made them with pasta Sunday night and thought they were delicious. Two of my kids, however, thought the pasta dish needed a little more oomph, so they added a little vinaigrette.
Here's the recipe, from Deborah Madison: Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone.
Linguine with Onions, Peas and Basil
3 tablespoons butter
1 red onion, quartered and thinly sliced crosswise
1 1/2 pounds fresh peas, shucked
salt and freshly ground white pepper
8 ounces fresh or dried linquine
1/4 cup small basil leaves, plucked into piedes
3 tablespoons grated Parmesan
Start hearing a large pot of water for the pasta. Meanwhile, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a wide skillet. Add the onion and a few spoonfuls water and stew over low heat until the onions are soft, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the peas and cook until they're bright breen and tender, a minute or two. Season with salt and pepper.
Cook the pasta in the bioling salted water, then scoop it out and add it to the peas, allowing a little water to fall into the pan. Add the basil and remaining butter, then toss with a large fork and spoon. Distribute the pasta among heated plates and go back for the peas that have stayed behind. Add a dusting of Parmesan to each plate.
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Washington, D.C.: Sending this in early ...
Hi, food folks!
I'm wondering if you or the chatters can tell me if there's a
kind of tomato I can grow in a container in my apartment
that will taste any good and also grow in sufficient
quantity that I won't need to spend $2 to $3 a pound at
the market anymore in order to make salad and sauces.
Also - if I can grow tomatoes indoors, is there a reason
not to, like bugs and insects that will get at them even if I
keep the windows closed?
Tons of thanks!
Judy H.: This is Adrian Higgins from the Home section. Tomatoes can only be grown indoors in a greenhouse or bright conservatory. They need a lot of light and even the sunniest room is far darker than the outdoors. You can buy patio varieties but why not get a full blown variety such as Better Boy. You can keep it contained by pinching out the suckers or water sprouts that appear in the crotch of the branches. It will need even watering and a little tomato food. Someone just wrote a book called the $64 tomato, which is what he figured it cost him to raise his own. Worth it though.
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Reston, Va.: The article on 100 calorie snacks is interesting. I've tried them before, but I find that I'm almost left more hungry than I was before I ate them. Now, I try to keep regular-calorie snack food at my desk (ruling out the stuff that's too high), and work that into my overall consumption for the day.
And yes, chewing my way through a firm-fleshed apple leaves me way more satisfied than a 100 calorie snack bag, which just leaves me searching for more.
Reston
Judith W.: That's very interesting. And good for you--especially thinking of your intake for the entire day. I didn't quite have your experience when I've tried them--I didn't feel hungrier. But I did know I'd eaten something 'artificial' (which I guess goes for "real" packaged cookies and crackers too).
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Silver Spring, Md.: OK-I finally got around to making the dinner in 35 Minutes from 2 weeks ago. It was a spicy pork stir fry served over noodles and garnished with cucumbers. The recipe called for a cup of soy sauce to be used in various aspects of the meal. I used Lite Soy Sauce and still couldn't finish my meal becuase it was so SALTY!!!! I had to throw the left-overs away! Was this a typo in the recipe? I was incredibly disappointed in a meal that sounded so good!
Marcia: No typo, Silver Spring, but perhaps you misread the recipe. It called for 1/2 cup and 1 tablespoon of soy sauce. No wonder yours tasted salty! I hope you give it another chance. It really is as good as it sounds.
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Arboretum picnic: You are NOT allowed to picnic on the grass at the Arboretum - only at the picnic tables in the Grove of State Trees. When I was there last week, the guards were throwing out illegal picnic-ers. It seems irresponsible for the Post to run an article and a picture encouraging readers to break the rules and damage the grounds at one of Washington's great places. Thanks -
Bonnie: Aw, did we mention grass? The shoot was set up with Arboretum approval, but for the record, there are two officially sanctioned sites for picnics: the Grove of State Trees and the East Terrace of the Admin. Building.
(However, Sue Burgess at the Arboretum suggests that this weekend is not good for picnicking on the East Terrace because there will be a Bonsai Show -- hey! Red, Hot, and Blue will be selling food there. Not a bad idea to get BBQ there and take it to the grove for a picnic, though.)
We here at Pic-a-nic Central do not want to appear to promote or endorse the damaging the grounds at the Arboretum, of course. And certainly, alcoholic beverages are not permitted. But -- and this is just me talking --- 448 acres is a lot of territory to wander around in, and if a sandwich and fixin's were discreetly dispensed with by responsible parties, I would not be so offended as to make a citizen's arrest.
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Snack attack: When the first urge hits, get a glass a water. When the second comes, get a big mug of herb tea - love peppermint! If and when I get a third craving, I break down and eat something.
Judith W.: I'm full of admiration! Wish I had your will power. And thanks.
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Whole Foods: I plan to complain about the live yogurt cultures being forced to live in a tub of plastic. Free the bacteria!
Judy H.: Dear Whole, Maybe start a campaign!
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Washington, D.C. - seafood cruelty: I was taken aback by Whole Food's decision to stop selling live seafood due to complaints from (presumably) PETA activists. How many complaints were received and why did they buckle to people who would give shellfish the right to vote? Let's face it, someone has to kill live creatures and then we eat them. My grandmother killed her own fowl with an ax over a tree stump. C'mon Whole Foods, get a backbone!
Judy H.: Not sure how many complaints they received, but they said they were from individuals, not groups.
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tomato sauce : I need that tomato sauce recipoe again. I threw it away because I didn't think my wife liked it. It was a long recipe with about ten pounds of plum tomatoes and carrots to sweeten it. I believ the author is a woman maybe Italian. I think it ran last year.
Judy H.: Dear tomato sauce. Voila!
MaryLynn Haase spends all day making a batch of her sauce. This version, for a smaller amount, takes a mere three to six hours to make. Haase says it took her more than 20 years to get the recipe right.
10 pounds Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded* and chopped (may substitute heirloom or so-called "overripes" sold at farmers markets)
4-6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion (about 1 cup)
5 cloves garlic
3/4 to 1 cup chopped celery
3/4 to 1 cup carrots, peeled and chopped
1/2 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and chopped
1 tablespoon kosher salt, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
11/2 teaspoons Italian seasoning
11/2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
11/2 tablespoons light brown sugar, or to taste
1/2 to 3/4 cup red wine
1/2 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
1/2 cup chopped basil leaves
In a large pot on medium heat, cook the peeled and seeded tomato pulp, stirring frequently, until it reaches a thick, pureed consistency, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. (If put through a tomato squeezer, as mentioned in the story, the tomatoes will take 2 hours to reach the desired consistency, as they retain more water than when processed by hand.)
Meanwhile, in a large pot on medium-high heat, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes or until it is golden. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute, being careful not to burn it. Add the celery, carrots and bell pepper and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Pour the tomato puree into the pot with vegetables. Add the salt to taste, pepper, Italian seasoning, oregano, bay leaf, thyme and the crushed red pepper flakes, if desired. Adjust the heat to medium-low or keep at a slow simmer and cook for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Taste and adjust seasonings as necessary; add the light brown sugar in teaspoon increments, stirring and tasting after 10 minutes each time so that the flavors can meld.
Cook the sauce uncovered for 2 to 3 hours at a slow simmer, tasting and stirring every 30 minutes. Adjust seasonings as necessary.
About 30 minutes before serving or preparing to can this sauce, add the red wine, parsley and basil, being careful not to overcook the last 3 ingredients as they may turn bitter. At this point, the sauce is ready to serve or store as needed.
Per 1 cup serving: 86 calories, 2 g protein, 13 g carbohydrates, 4 g fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 0 g saturated fat, 376 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber
Recipe tested by Judith M. Havemann; e-mail questions to food@washpost.com
*NOTE: To peel and seed tomatoes, score the bottom of each one with an X and remove the stem, cutting only the skin and not into the meat of the tomato. Bring a pot of water to a boil, and have ready a bowl of ice water. When the water boils, add the tomatoes and remove after 15 seconds with a skimmer or slotted spoon. Immediately plunge into the ice water to stop the cooking. When cool, drain on a perforated rack or in a colander. Peel away the skin from each tomato and discard. Cut the tomatoes into halves. Remove the seeds.
Tomato squeezers perform this task faster, but the tomatoes retain more water. Squeezers are available at Williams-Sonoma and Sur La Table stores for about $30.
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Tel Aviv, Israel: Last night, I had a fantastic cafe meal at Comme il Faut, near the Tel Aviv port, with buckwheat, shitake mushrooms, sauteed greens, and sour cream. I'm hooked. What else can one do with buckwheat, and what are the basic prep steps? Thanks!
Candy: Welcome Tel Aviv! Buckwheat, known as kasha when roasted, is commonly used as a hot breakfast cereal or in multi-grain pancakes. But you probably want a nonbreakfast dish. This salad with smoked mozzarella is terrific.
KASHA SALAD WITH SMOKED MOZZARELLA AND CUMIN
4 servings
Buckwheat has a rich, nutty, earthy flavor that is absolutely unique.
In this recipe, the groats are dry-roasted with egg to keep them fluffy and separate. Adapted from a Steven Raichlen recipe.
1 cup buckwheat groats
1 egg, beaten
1 small onion, quartered
1 bay leaf
Salt
3 ounces smoked mozzarella or other smoked cheese
1 small red bell pepper, cored, seeded and diced
1 small yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded and diced
1 small green bell pepper, cored, seeded and diced
2 to 3 scallions, both white and light green parts, finely chopped
1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley (1/2 cup), coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/3 teaspoon cumin seeds
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Wash the buckwheat groats under cold running water, then drain and blot dry. Combine the egg and groats in a saucepan and cook over high heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the individual grains are dry. Add the onion, bay leaf, salt and 3 cups hot water and bring the groats to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the buckwheat for 6 to 8 minutes, or until tender but not mushy. Rinse the groats under cold running water and drain in a colander. Discard the onion quarters and bay leaf.
When the groats are completely cool, combine all the ingredients for the salad in a large bowl and toss. Correct the seasoning, adding salt, pepper, vinegar or cumin seeds to taste.
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Arlington, Va.: Regarding favorite picnic recipes and strategies: One of my favorite foods to bring along on a picnic is pan bagna, or pressed sandwiches. I like buying a loaf of ciabatta (Trader Joe's sells good ciabatta now) and stuffing it with Italian cold cuts and cheese, marinated peppers, onions, etc. The great thing about the sandwiches is ease of transport -- since they're supposed to be wrapped in plastic and then "pressed," they work perfectly in the bottom of a picnic basket with everything else on top. To serve with the pan bagna, I usually opt for easy sides that can sit out for a while without risk of spoilage, such as marinated olives, cheeses, and other antipasto -- most of which don't require any cutlery. Paired with a nice Italian vino, it's a wonderful picnic and quick and easy to assemble.
Judy H.: Sounds great, Arlington. Thanks.
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Baking question: I loved the story about the grandma's cake. I'd like to try making it, but I'm wondering--is heavy cream the same as whipping cream? In my market, they have something called "heavy cream" and something called "whipping cream." What's the diff?
Judy H.: Dear baking,
Most of the whipping cream that is sold at supermarkets is light whipping cream, which contains 30 to 36 percent milk fat. Heavy cream is whipping cream with 36 to 40 percent milk fat.
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Bethesda, Md.: Quick question. I purchased some white miso for a salmon dish. I have had it for a couple of months. How long does it keep?
thanks
Candy: Bethesda--I'd bet that miso has gone south by now. You need to chuck it. Miso can keep refrigerated, in an airtight container, after it's opened for a week or so.
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Washington, D.C.: I joined Weight Watchers almost 6 years ago, lost 30 pounds and kept it off. Part of how this worked for me is by keeping portions small of that bad-for-you food I love: chocolate! I eat chocolate almost every day. The way I do it is by having one small York peppemint pattie or two Hershey's kisses. It hits the spot with my sweet tooth and it keeps me slim!
Judith W.: Your self-control is very impressive. Congratulations on keeping the weight off! And if the mints and the kisses satisfy your cravings, and you can keep to those limited amounts, that's just great.
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Washington, D.C.: Hey, Candy. David H. here about the expiring eggs. Funny, I confronted the same issue the other day and made ice cream from the ten yolks and threw to whites out. Angel food cake/ice cream...10 whites/10 yolks! And ten pounds.
Candy: David, we need to get you together with the angel food chatter and you guys can throw a dessert party.
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Boston, Mass.: I made a wonderful picnic last year with a new friend. We drove to a local, organic farm and picked up anything that struck our eye, then went home and made a roasted corn salad with basil and feta, roasted red pepper spread, baba ganoush, and mint ice tea (fresh mint leaves and green tea). Then we stuck everything in a basket, bought a baguette, and went to see a free Shakespeare performance in Boston Common. Definitely a picnic to remember.
Judy H.: Lucky you. Pretty nice day. Picking out vegetables. Making great food. Seeing free Shakespeare. Eating great food.
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Maryland: Does alligator taste like crocodile?
Marcia: We're stumped, but for a good reason. It's not just that we've never eaten alligator, but that crocodile, in this country at least, is endangered and so it's illegal to kill it or sell it. So you're going to have a tough time finding anyone who has tasted crocodile. (Chatters, have any of you had it in some other country? Let us know what it tastes like.) We consulted Tom Fitzmorris, a New Orleans restaurant reviewer and radio talk-show host, who surmised that the taste of crocodile and alligator would be pretty similar because they are so closely related. Alligator, he says, has a mild flavor similar to veal.
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Orange Park, Fl.: Here's the deal: fiance got a bunch of fresh veggies from a friend's farm - squash, red potatoes, and snap peas. I'm excited to make something with them, but he comes from a long line of country cooks ("my mom always just put the potatoes in the pot to cook with the beans and butter" or something like that) and I am hoping to be able to cook the veggies MY way, or at least different from the future mom-in-law. (Who wants to venture into that territory!?) Any suggestions for some methods of cooking, some recipes, that would make for some veggies yummy enough for the fiance to forget they weren't boiled in a pot?
Judith W.: You might never be able to make his forget his mother's cooking. And speaking as a mother myself, I think that's just fine.
However, he'd probably like this recipe from Bon Appetit, August 2002. (And if you want to use the squash too, first slice them, place them on paper towels and salt them to draw out some of the water. Then steam them lightly, cool and dry them, and add them to the salad after you mix in the green beans).:
RED POTATO AND GREEN BEAN SALAD WITH DIJON VINAIGRETTE
This lovely side can be made a day ahead.
8 ounces green beans, trimmed, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
3 pounds small red-skinned potatoes, unpeeled, halved
2 tablespoons dry vermouth
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 large shallot, chopped
1 tablespoon coarse-grained Dijon mustard
2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Cook beans in large saucepan of boiling salted water until crisp-tender, 4 minutes. Drain. Transfer to bowl of ice water. Drain; pat dry with paper towels.
Cook potatoes in large pot of boiling salted water until just tender, about 12 minutes. Drain; transfer to large bowl. Sprinkle vermouth over hot potatoes; toss gently and let stand 5 minutes. Whisk vinegar, shallot, and mustard in small bowl. Gradually whisk in oil. Pour over potatoes and toss to coat. Cool completely. Mix in green beans and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.) Serve cold or at room temperature.
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Raleigh, N.C.: I'm rather surprised by the venom of the readers who do not agree with the decision of Whole Foods to not sell live softshells or live lobsters. I genuinely wonder how many of them regularly shop at Whole Foods. I am not a regular shopper there myself, but do go occasionally when I cannot find something at my local natural foods co-op. If the readers were regular Whole Foods shoppers, they would realize it's extremely unlikely that chickens sold there were raised in 10x13 boxes that one writer stated. Yes, Whole Foods is the Starbucks of the natural foods industry. But they do attract a clientle that would potentially be bothered by viewing the live kills of seafood. But, really, folks, if you don't like it, don't shop there! It's as simple as that. And if you don't shop there, don't complain about actions that have absolutely no effect on your life!
Judy H.: View from Raleigh, thanks.
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100 cal snacks: I have got two apples on my desk for the late afternoon snack run. I'm lazy and would rather eat something that's already there than go to the vending machine across the building. So, if I plan ahead, I can resist!
In a previous weight watchers incarnation I made a habit of buying normal snacks and separating them out into single serving plastic bags. If there's only one available to eat, then that's all I got to eat. Doesn't help if you're at home with the whole shebang though... I definitely sympathize with all who struggle with portion control when faced with the whole container. I struggle with it every day.
Judith W.: Yup, it's a permanent struggle for most people. I'm impressed by your planning and happy that the apples do it for you. Actually I find, they sort-of do, but it's more satisfying if I cut the apples into small slices. I guess that's the idea--to figure out what works for you.
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Washington, D.C.: re: soft shells. Most of the crabs I know seem to have no feelings.
Candy: How do you know? I'm picturing a crab psychologist right now....
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Miso: Any ideas on what to do with leftover miso before it goes bad? I've got a bag left and I'd rather not chuck it. (Vegetarian ideas preffered)
Candy: Hey chatters, any suggestions? The following recipes are a couple of suggestions.
Citrus-Miso Vinaigrette
1 serving
In this low-calorie, versatile vinaigrette, miso replaces both oil and salt.
Drizzle it over tender young lettuces, steamed asparagus or a salad of cooked chicken on sliced avocado.
From Nigella Lawson's "How to Eat" (John Wiley & Sons, 2002).
1 teaspoon light or yellow miso
1/2 to 1 teaspoon coarse-grain mustard
1/2 teaspoon honey, or to taste
Juice from 1 orange (about 4 tablespoons)
In a bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients.
Per serving: 53 calories, 1 gm protein, 12 gm carbohydrates, trace fat, 0 mg cholesterol, trace saturated fat, 249 mg sodium, trace dietary fiber
Wilted Greens With Miso-Tamarind Sauce
2 to 4 servings
Miso lends a barely perceptible but tangible savory flavor to this robust, bitter warm salad dressing. The dressing has a more substantial flavor and texture than a vinaigrette and can stand up to hearty greens.
Adapted from "The Bold Vegetarian Chef" by Ken Charney (Wiley & Sons, 2003).
Several handfuls of baby spinach, watercress or mizuna leaves or 1 head hearty bitter greens, such as radicchio or endive, cleaned and very coarsely chopped
1 firm but not hard pear, preferably Bosc
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons maple syrup
1 teaspoon red or barley miso
1 teaspoon tamarind paste or concentrate
1 clove garlic, crushed and finely chopped
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger root
1/4 cup water or vegetable stock
Rinse the greens and, if necessary, coarsely chop the leaves. Place in a large bowl; set aside.
Cut the pear into quarters and remove and discard the stem and core. Cut each quarter lengthwise into 2 or 3 slices.
In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil. Add the pear slices and cook, stirring only occasionally, until browned on both sides, 7 to 9 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Pour off any oil or juices in the skillet.
In a medium bowl, combine the maple syrup, miso, tamarind, garlic, ginger and water or stock and whisk until smooth. Pour it into the skillet and bring to a boil over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring, until the dressing begins to thicken, 1 to 2 minutes.
Immediately pour the hot dressing over the greens and toss gently until they are well coated and slightly wilted. Working quickly, divide the greens among individual plates and top each salad with a few pear slices. Serve immediately.
*NOTE: Tamarind paste is the sweet-tart concentrated fruit of the tamarind pod that is sold in bricks of compressed paste. Do not substitute tamarind juice.
Per serving (based on 4): 104 calories, 1 gm protein, 10 gm carbohydrates, 7 gm fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1 gm saturated fat, 124 mg sodium, 2 gm dietary fiber
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Georgetown, Washington, D.C.: I finally got around to reading last week's food section this morning and saw the tease that you'd be posting reader favorites for Peruvian chicken rotisserie places today. Don't keep me waiting! I have to know where Crisp N Juicy stands!
Judy H.: Dear Georgetown, Here it is, from page three today, Readers Respond:
Last week, as part of our "High on Peru" coverage, we asked readers to let us know about their favorite Peruvian-style chicken restaurants in the Washington area and beyond.
We received accolades for the aromas and herb flavors of establishments from El Pollo Sabroso in Mount Pleasant to Margarita Colonial Beach on the Virginia shore. The most popular spots: Super Chicken and Edy's Chicken & Steak, both in Falls Church; El Pollo Rico in Arlington (other locations in Springfield and Wheaton); Junior's Chicken in Gaithersburg; and Crisp & Juicy locations in Arlington, Rockville and Silver Spring.
- Walter Nicholls
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Curry cheat: Buy one of the sauces from Trader Joes. Then dress it up w/some fresh spices or herbs, and spend your time worrying about cooking the chicken and vegetables just right.
Judith W.: Interesting. Thanks for the suggestion. Which sauces in particular do you like? And when do you add it?
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Arlington, Va.: I really liked the tip about using frozen lemonade ice cubes to keep ice tea cold and keep it from becoming diluted. What about making ice cubes from iced tea? Wouldn't that work too?
Bonnie: You betcha. Might have been kinda hard to tell from the photos, but the lemon juice and passion fruit ice cubes provided a kind of tequila sunrise visual effect in the picnic iced tea. Just an alcohol reference, no actual alcohol was used in the making of those drinks or in this answer!
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Washington, D.C.: Hi everyone. I am a real connoisseur of jams, jellies, preserves, etc. What do you think are the best available (short of homemade, of course) and where? Many thanks!
Candy: Chatters? Personally, I am a big fan of Dickinson's--in particular their black raspberry preserves. They are awesome. And just recently, the company started making all-fruit preserves, sweetened with fruit syrup instead of sugar or corn syrup. They also have an organic line. They're available in most supermarkets--I've found them in Giant and Harris Teeter.
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Weight Watcher again: Well, the second part to my self control is that I can't keep those chocolates in my house or at my desk at work. Another staff member keeps a candy bowl, which I contribute to, but it does mean I have to walk all the way to the other end of the office to get my chocolate! If they were in my desk, I'd be eating those York peppermint patties all day!
Judy H.: Dear Weight, I wondered how you kept from eating more York pepperment patties.
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Washington, D.C.: I like the convenience of the 100-calorie packs, and I know I certainly have trouble stopping when there's an open bag of cookies, crackers, or chips in front of me. But I would urge people to look into figuring out their own 100-calorie snacks in addition to what you can get pre-packaged. Like you guys recommended, but in addition, make sure there's some protein in your snack. String cheese is great, and peanut butter in celery is a perfect snack IF you don't go overboard on the peanut butter. Put a little bit of cheese on a couple of Triscuits and take that to work. These nibbles will stick with you better, and for the same number of calories.
Judith W.: You've definitely focused on the central problem. If you're not attracted to a particular "healthy" food, it won't satisfy you. The protein idea is helpful too--that kind of snack does seem to stay with you longer.
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Baltimore, Md.: I used to live in Bavaria and eagerly anticipated Spargel season every spring! Though not a recipe, I recall one dish in particular that had lovely tender spargel covered with thin slices of ham and cheese and baked in a shallow, oval dish. Don't recall a sauce...perhaps there was butter involved? Come to think of it, there was always butter involved with Spargel. Thanks for the memories.
Judy H.: Thank you Balimore, some German websites seem to mention white sauces, which are made with liquid from cooking the asparagus. When I think of what the asparagus water looks like when I remove the asparagus, does not sound appealing to me. I think you are right about the butter.
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Washington, D.C.: For snacks, I always pack them in the tiniest little rubbermaid container I have. Then it looks like you're getting a huge helping, when it's really just a small amount of trail mix. If I had a big bag of chips I'd eat half of it. But just a few in a tupperware container, and I'm satisfied.
Bonnie: Way to go, DC. You receive extra credit for managing to hang on to your small Tupperware containers and lids. Somehow, they go the way of single socks at my house.
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Arlington, Va.: Re: portion control. I find that the most effective strategy for portion control is immediately portioning my food (whether it's homemade or store bought). For instance, if I make pasta, before my husband and I start eating, I'll put the extra in tupperware containers so we're not tempted to go for seconds. Same with cookies, brownies, etc. It's not foolproof of course (shamefully, we've both opened the tupperware containers before to get seconds!) but nine times out of ten, it works, and that's the whole point.
Judy H.: Dear Arlington, I fear I might be snapping off those Tupperware lids at a rapid pace. Thanks for writing.
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re: 100 cal snack foods: Fruit. Banana, Apple. Orange.
Judy H.: Dear 100, we know, but do we heed!
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Washington, D.C.: I bought some beautiful (but expensive) ramps at the Dupont farmer's market this past weekend. What shall I cook with them? I'm a vegetarian.
Ideas would be most welcome! Thanks much.
Candy: Ramps are wild leeks (or wild onions) with an assertive garlicky-onion flavor. You can substitute them for any recipe that calls for leeks or onions or scallions. This one, from Gourmet magazine, would be a good vegetarian dish. You could also use them in a delicious omelet with some wild mushrooms.
SPAGHETTI WITH RAMPS
Active time: 25 min Start to finish: 25 min
1/2 lb ramps
1 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 lb spaghetti
2 tablespoons freshly grated parmesan
Accompaniment: toasted bread-crumb topping
Trim roots from ramps and slip off outer skin on bulbs if loose. Blanch ramps in a 6-quart pot of boiling salted water, 2 to 3 seconds, and transfer to a cutting board with tongs. Coarsely chop ramps and put in a blender with zest and oil.
Add spaghetti to boiling water and cook a few minutes, then ladle out 1/2 cup pasta water and add to blender. Puree ramps until smooth and season with salt. Continue to cook spaghetti until al dente, then ladle out about 1 cup additional pasta water before draining spaghetti in a colander. Return pasta to pot with ramp puree and toss with parmesan over moderate heat 1 to 2 minutes, thinning sauce with a little pasta water as needed to coat pasta.
Serves 4
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Washington, D.C.: I've been buying apples for months and just got a note from the farmer I buy from at the farmer's market that apples are almost done for the year. What should I pack in my lunches instead that isn't citrus fruit? (Peeling tangerines makes a mess at my desk.) Need that bulky low-calorie zing!
Bonnie: Would you be willing to continue your affaire de pomme with applesauce? Many of those packaged cups are 50 cals apiece.
A chatter mentioned jicama today, which might give you that equally satisfactory crunch.
Judy H.: Dear Washington, Maybe your farmer means that his apples from last year's harvest are almost gone. Might he have a whole new crop starting in August if he planted any early apples???
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Athens, Geo. : When it comes to healthy snacking, I usually prefer to have a more substantial portion of something healthy than a smaller portion of something not so healthy (ie 100 calorie snack packs). To help satisfy my munchies, especially in the mid to late afternoon when the workday seems to drone on and on, I like to pack any of the following into my lunch as a snack and most if not all are right around 100 calories, give or take a few:
Small container of fresh cut fruit, whatever is in season
1 cup sliced jicama, seedless cucumber, or carrots with 2 tablespoons of hummus
1 to 2 cups sliced strawberries tossed with tablespoon of balsamic vinegar just before snacking
2-3 Bibb lettuce leaves, used to wrap up 1-2 ounces of lunch meat, toped with mustard from a to-go packet
Celery sticks with 2 tablespoons reduced fat veggie cream cheese
2 graham crackers sandwiched with 1 teaspoon of peanut butter
Unbuttered popcorn (Newman's & Healthy Choice are both good brands that has only 15 calories per cup, allows for snacking on several servings)
Cut cantaloupe sprinkled with fresh mint
Bõp 1% cottage cheese, topped with seasonings.
To aid in portion control, I bought 2 dozen or so small (2 tablespoon capacity) plastic containers with pop-top lids that are reusable. So I just fill these little containers with hummus, peanut butter, vinegar or whatever and off I go. To-go condiment packets are great too. All these snacks help me to me fuller longer and tastes much better to me than anything from a vacuumed pouch.
Thanks for the chats!!
Judith W.: Terrific suggestions! Sure they take advance planning, but eating healthfully generally does. Isn't jicama great--so sweet and crisp. And balsamic vinegar on strawberries is a wonderful idea. Thanks for all of them.
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Kentlands, Md.: The premise of 100 calorie snacks is a good marketing idea, but are they really a sound food choice. As I see it, these packs are merely filled with empty calories, which don't do a body much good. I'm also curious how many of these are being eaten in multiple quantities or being given to our children, establishing poor eating habits.
How to tackle the snack cravings and junk foods? Simple - don't have them in the house. We all know they're bad but we still choose to put them in our shopping cart, then proceed to eat half the bag when we're sitting in front of the TV.
Second choice, if you have to like a small snack, have something healthier on hand that can be eaten in very small portions, like turkey jerky or trail mix. Usually we want something to eat to satisfy a psychological need for food, not because we're actually hungry. Fruits like strawberries, mangoes and grapes do wonders to satisfy cravings for sweets.
Judith W.: You guys are great. Great to have these suggestions and concerns. The multiple quantify problem is a real one. Self-control has to be there somewhere.
I like trail mix too, and mixes of raisins and nuts--especially at airports. But if I don't bag them or put them in small containers, I'm in trouble.
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Washington, D.C.: Picnic strategy: pre-cut everything at home. Can't tell you how many perfectly nice hunks of cheese I've ruined (okay, not ruined, but eaten in suboptimal conditions) by not having a knife to slice it off before I slap it onto a piece of baguette with proscuitto. And having a sharp knife in your bag is dangerous, plus it gets all yucky with cheeseness. Cut it beforehand, that's the easiest answer.
Candy: Absolutely. By the time everyone's at the picnic, there should be little if any prep work.
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Washington, D.C.: My picnic tip is to stick with recipes you know are tried-and-true. Much like a dinner party for your husband's boss, picnics are not the time to try something tricky. Make your favorite pasta salad, brownies, muffaletta, whatever. But don't risk something that might fail, or spoil, or not keep well because you haven't tried it before.
(Note: this comes from a big mistake I made once with a white bean salad I took to a picnic -- misread the recipe and put in raw garlic instead of cooked. It was pretty much inedible, and by the time we figured it out, we were miles from other food!)
Judy H.: Thank you Washington. Good advice. Been there.
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ice cubes: Your ice tea reminded me of something I've done -- buy frozen mango chunks from Trader Joe's and use them in lieu of ice cubes in mixed drinks. Actually, on lazy days I'd just pour a little rum over them and let them settle, very yummy.
Judy H.: Thanks, ice cubes.
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Washington, D.C.: A great picnic dish, as it is good served at room temperature -- saute/roast/poach some chicken breasts (or thighs) and cut into bite sized pieces; set aside. In a skillet, heat a tiny bit of olive oil, toss in 2-inch lengths of asparagus, a few glugs of low sodium soy sauce, and some cashews. (Amounts depend on how many you want to serve, of course.) Cook for about 3 minutes. Stir in the chicken and toss to coat. Pack it all into a picnic container and enjoy. Yum.
Judy H.: Thanks, Washington.
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Birthday bash: Hi foodies. I'm submitting early but need your help. I'm having 20 second-graders over for a birthday party next week. Some of the kids are lactose-intolerant, and one of the moms coming to help is a vegan. Do you have any cupcake or cake recipes that would work with this crowd?
Leigh: Here is a vegan recipe for Banana Cupcakes from the new "The Whole Foods Allergy Cookbook," by Christine Fusillo.
Cupcakes (makes 12):
1/2 cup safflower oil
1 cup honey
3 teaspoons Ener-G Egg Replacer, mixed with 4 tablespoons enriched rice or oat milk
1 cup mashed banana
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups spelt flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup enriched rice or oat milk
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line muffin pans with 12 liners. Combine safflower oil and honey in a large bowl. Beat until smooth. Add egg replacer, banana and vanilla extract. Combine spelt flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt. Alternating, add flour mixture and rice/oat milk to bowl. Beat until fully mixed. Pour into muffin pan. Bake for 25 minutes. Cupckaes are done when they turn golden brown on top and bounce back when pressed. Let cool well before removing from pan. Loosen with a knife if necessary. Eat plain or dust with confectioner's sugar.
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Gaithersburg, Md.: Reading the nutritional panel is truly enlightening when it comes to snacks and food consumption. I try to read the panel and gauge a proper portion size. In most cases, I'm surprised at what constitutes a portion and this simple step really helps to control the calories. Many packages that look like one serving may actually be two or three.
Judy H.: I totally agree, Gaithersburg. For example a serving of fruit juice is often 1/3 of a cup. Some people would call that a swallow, not a serving .
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Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: Are the pansies from my patio edible? my sister in-law claims they are, b/c she's seen them in the produce section of the grocery. i maintain that those are a different, special breed. am i wrong? can i eat my pansies?
just wondering...thanks!
Candy: We checked The Food Lover's Companion and it warns that not all flowers are edible. The safest thing to do is not to start munching your patio pansies. The edible pansies sold in markets haven't been sprayed with pesticides or otherwise treated with chemicals.
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travel food: Does anyone out there have good ideas for, well, travel food? A meal that could be taken on a bus or train, that doesn't need to be refrigerated, tastes good, and isn't too messy to eat?
Bonnie: Check out the chatter on Sally Squires' LPC yesterday. (Link will follow). Covered lotsa options.
washingtonpost.com: Lean Plate Club discussion .
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Compromising and Cajoling: Hi Foodies,
I'm sharing a house with some wonderful people who seriously overcook their vegetables. Eg, steaming asparagus until it's not just limp but somewhat grey, steaming spinach or kale for "only" 20 minutes. Takes a lot of the flavor out, and certainly makes the texture mushier.
When I cook, there are askance looks at the veggies and less gets eaten.
Got any great ideas for sharing meals with folks who have radically different approaches to veggies? (We do pretty well with main dishes.) I don't want to be insulting (no thanks, I'll cook my own) and I don't want to eat mushy flavorless veggies, or to foist on them things they may not like either.
So help me out here, what are some good compromises or ways to cajol folks into a broader range of options?
Candy: People often eat vegetables that have been stir-fried in Chinese food and not cooked to death. You might consider trying a simple stir-fry. Or pasta with small pieces of properly cooked veggies. Or just give up and serve them nice big salads!
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Silver Spring, Md.: Hi there,
We had a delicious dinner at Restaurant Eve the other day. We ordered their cucumber margarita and it came with a startling spice around the rim. It was delicious and the waiter told us it was a South American spice (I can't remember the name) it was a mixture of dried lime peel, salt, chilies and sugar. I think those are the ingrediants. Does anyone know this spice mix? Its name? Where to find it? Thanks
Judy H.: Dear Silver, Ronnie, the service director at Restaurant Eve, says the spice is acirrico, from Mexico. He thinks it is available at Todo's Market in Alexandria, but you might want to call first to be sure.
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Spargel: I was in Germany last year during Spargel season, it is HUGE over there. We had some almost every day for two weeks. The best dish was spears (each) wrapped in a thin slice of ham and covered in a white sauce and broiled with breadcrumbs and cheese on top. Alles gut! Don't forget the beer... I'll bet Old Europe restaurant probably has something on for Spargel season.
Judy H.: Thanks Spargel.
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Dupont Circle, Washington, D.C.: Do you know of any decent butchers in the area? Other than what i see at the grocery stores, i don't know of anyone in the metro area who just cuts meat. I have a car and am willing to drive a certain distance, but i am not looking for a 2 hour round trip excursion. Thanks.
Candy: Dupont Circle: THere's the Organic Butcher in McLean. But Wagshal's in Spring Valley is more in your neighborhood and the father and son who run it know lots about custom butchering beef.
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Moroccan food question: Hi Food Section Staff!
I am not a big fan of eggs or quiche, but the write-ups about Bisteeya/Bistilla at Moroccan restaurants sound intriguing. I perused a few recipes and it looks like it calls for a bunch of eggs. Was wondering if the eggs in the dish are more comparable to a quiche or a casserole? Was thinking of celebrating a special occasion at a Moroccan restaurant, but not if the dish everyone loves is quiche-like!
Thanks so much!!
Marcia: We looked up some Bisteeya/Bistilla recipes (also spelled B'steeya and Pastilla). All of them used eggs (and chicken, cinnamon and sugar), though none characterized it as a quiche. Here's how Hassan M'Souli describes it in "Moroccan Modern" (he favors the Bastilla spelling): "A traditional savory/sweet pastry, regarded as the crowning dish of Moroccan cuiusine. Bastilla is served to newlyweds the morning after their wedding night to symbolize their family's wish that life together should be as sweet as this dish. It is made in three layers, comprising shredded pigeon (we used chicken), glazed onions and almond, and creamy egg with orange blossom water. These are enclosed in, and separated by, layers of very thin pastry called warka. Filo can be used as a substitute. When cooked, Bastilla is dusted heavily with cinnamon and icing sugar. This dish truly is a labor of love, time-consuming but with worthwhile results."
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Washington, D.C.: Snack packs.
I get major oreo with milk cravings around that time of the month. The snack packs are a great alternative to me devouring the regular package of oreos.
Judith W.: A satisfied customer! Glad they work for you.
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TJ Sauce follow-up: They have 4 good indian sauces, but Masala is my favorite. Saute chicken, onion, & any hard veggies (eg carrots) for about 5-10 minutes. Add the jar of sauce and a little water or stock, stir to combine. Then add the softer veggies & legumes (parsnip, broccoli, chickpeas, whatever) and simmer another 15 minutes or so until everything is blended together. Fresh herbs go in at the end, dried herbs & spices go in with the soft veggies.
Judy H.: Thank you TJ Sauce.
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Washington, D.C.: You guys may have an answer to this after the recent Peruvian food feature. I bought some aji amarillo paste to make aji de gallina, but have two problems: now I can't find a good recipe for aji de gallina that actually calls for paste instead of powder, and even after that I'll still have a ton left. Can you help with one or both of these? (If your Peruvian food adventures didn't familiarize you with aji amarillo, t's a medium hot yellow pepper paste in a jar.)
Bonnie: We are Walter-less today (not dragged off by soft-shell crabby people, but on assignment), but I bet he'd be happy to advise on your ajis if you send your request to food@washpost.com.
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Silver Spring, Md.: Hi there. I really enjoyed the article on the snack packs, but had to laugh because my husband and I already do this! As soon as we get that bag of Oreos home, we are dividing them into "servings" and putting them into little ziploc bags for lunches and just sudden cravings. It works really well for us (except sometime Goldfish crackers can be tedious to count!). I did have to laugh at the cost of these packags, but it made me feel better to know how much we're saving doing it on our own.
Judith W.: You two are adorable. And patient. And sensible--these things are fairly expensive. Funny about the Goldfish.
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Harpers Ferry, WV: For the snack attack - It hits the worst at the office mid afternoon. I usually pack a small salad loaded w/veggies & some lo-cal dressing. Even if it seems like nothing but rabbit food, psychologically, my body is tricked into thinking it just had a meal. Or, for a sugar fix, I've recently discovered Quaker Oats "Breakfast Cookies": 5 GRAMS OF FIBER and fairly lo-fat.
Judy H.: Thank you Harpers. Better than going to the cafeteria and getting a cookie, which some unnamed food editors have been known to do.
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White Oak, Md.: as for the crab situation, I'm curious to know how the numbers compare: whining about killing the crabs vs. whining about not having the crabs.
Judy H.: Maybe we should do a chart!
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Crab related story: Complain about Whole Foods all you want, but this isn't restricted to supermarkets. I once chatted with a zookeeper who said they changed from giving the tigers whole horse legs, bone included, because it made the parents squeamish about explaining the food situation to their kids.
So they switched to chunks of meat, and the tigers, without bones to rip meat off of, got nervious habits and chewed the hair right off their tails. Eventually the zookeepers hid the meat in the cage to let the tigers have another distraction.
Some people are just that way. Generally, it's not the vegetarians (I am one - and I didn't complain).
Judy H.: Dear Crab related. Interesting zoo story. Thanks.
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Washington, D.C.: Do you guys have any thoughts about the Art Institute of Washington's culinary program? Their diploma program is convenient, both location- and schedule-wise, for me with my current work. But I'd like to get some unbiased opinion about the school before submitting my application.
Judy H.: We have not attended their courses. Anybody out there with first hand experience?
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The Woodner, D.C.: Hi, love the chats! My girlfriend and I are having a cooking date this evening that will include mahi mahi (we get it frozen from Trader Joes) and cheap champagne to drink (though I'll drink champagne with just about anything). Any thoughts on a recipe for us? Thanks for helping the romance!
Candy: This is a fabulous recipe from one of our photographers that ran in the section recently. Hope you like it (and drink some champagne for me, too.)
Mahi-Mahi With Salsa
6 servings
This recipe is adapted from "The Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Cookbook" (Ten Speed Press, 2003). It will come as no surprise that the book suggests pairing it with Cakebread Cellars sauvignon blanc or rubaiyat. I have to agree. Serve with a simple green salad.
1/3 cup orange juice
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons achiote paste*
1 clove garlic, mashed to a paste
2 teaspoons chili powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt plus additional for seasoning the fish
Cayenne pepper
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 pounds skinless mahi-mahi fillets, 1-inch thick (may substitute sea bass or albacore tuna fillets)
1 papaya (about a pound), peeled, seeded and diced (may substitute diced pineapple)
1/4 cup finely diced red onion
1 tablespoon minced cilantro
1 teaspoon seeded and finely minced serrano chili pepper
1/4 teaspoon grated lime zest
2 tablespoons lime juice
In a large nonreactive bowl, add the orange and lemon juices, achiote paste, garlic, chili powder, the 1/2 teaspoon salt and a pinch of cayenne, or to taste, and mix well. Whisk in the olive oil.
Place the fillets in a shallow bowl or on a plate and pour the marinade over the fish. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
In a small bowl, combine the papaya, onion, cilantro, serrano chili pepper, lime zest and juice and a pinch of salt. Stir and set aside.
If using a gas grill, preheat on medium-high, depending on your grill, then reduce heat to medium. If using a charcoal grill, start the charcoal or wood briquettes. When the briquettes are ready, distribute them evenly under the cooking area for direct heat.
Grill the fish, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer to individual plates, and spoon the salsa over it. Serve immediately.
*NOTE: Achiote (ah-chee-OH-tay) paste, made from the seeds of the annatto tree, is available in some larger grocery stores and in Latin American markets.
Per serving: 219 calories, 29 g protein, 8 g carbohydrates, 8 g fat, 110 mg cholesterol, 1 g saturated fat, 296 mg sodium, 1 g dietary fiber
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Judith W.: Thanks for all your suggestions folks. Today's winners are: the Athens Georgia chatter with the wonderful list of snacks, and the Silver Spring couple who divide up the snacks. Please send your names and addresses to food@washpost.com. And tune in next week for a our hot dog tasting and some terrific recipes from Farmer John Peterson.
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Landover, Md.: I use a lot of cake mixes and improvise on the recipes to suit my tastes. I am amazed at how people swear my cakes are homemade - "made from scratch". Is there a decided difference in the taste between the box mix and "From scratch" and what is the biggest difference?
Judy H.: You may have read our "fake it" story last week, in which David Hagedorn showed how to take prepared foods from grocery stores and make them taste homemade. Personally, I think cakes from boxes taste less moist and more synthetic than most cakes from scratch, but a really good frosting can make a huge difference on any cake.
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Washington, D.C.: Settle a question for us. How long can you marinate chicken without the meat getting all mushy? Overnight? 8 hours? I want to put chicken breasts in a citrusy marinade the night before, then cook them when I come home from work the next day. Is this too long? My husband says it is.
Marcia: Marinating chicken overnight in a citrusy marinade is fine (not fine for fish, however -- the enzymes in the citrus break down the muscle fiber of the fish). I've been making a lemon chicken recipe from the original Silver Palate cookbook for years that marinates the chicken in lemon juice overnight. The chicken pieces are then drained, dusted with flour, browned in a little corn oil then finished off the oven with lemon zest and brown sugar sprinkled on top (put a little lemon-tinged chicken broth in the baking dish so it doesn't burn).
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