What's Cooking

Calling all foodies! Join us for another edition of What's Cooking , our live online culinary hour with Kim O'Donnel .

A graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education (formerly known as Peter Kump's New York Cooking School), Kim spends much of her time in front of the stove or with her nose in a cookbook.

Catch up on previous transcripts with the What's Cooking archive page .

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Kim O'Donnel: Greetings, junebugs. How's everybody? Father's Day is coming up this Sunday, June 18, followed immediately by Juneteenth (June 19), a commemoration of the end of slavery in this country. Perhaps a picnic is in order to celebrate the men in our lives and the Emancipation Proclamation?? Time to get busy! I hope you are enjoying the newest arrivals at market -- cherries, sugar snap peas, strawberries (though not much longer)...and dare I say it, but I bet we'll see some apricots, blueberries and hmm, maybe even a peach or two in coming days. Tell me what's on the menu, and let's light up the stove...

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Reston, Va.: Hi Kim! I'm posting early because I have a lunch meeting today.

I posted in your blog a question about iced tea. The Washington Post had a recipe for rosemary iced tea. I think I would really enjoy those flavors, but am not too fond of sweet tea. Do you have any suggestions on how I can make it sans sugar?

Thanks much! I have really enjoyed your blogs! Esp the fish tacos. I plan to make those this weekend.

Kim O'Donnel: Reston, I just posted a little ditty in the blog this am about flavored lemonade, including the one from the Food section with rosemary...and to answer your question directly, the recipe is for lemonade, not tea. However, I do mention "The New Tea Book" by Sara Perry, which has a few tasty ideas for iced teas, sans sugar, to boot. Your choice. thanks for feedback on blog, and I'll be eager to get your report on those tacos!

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Annandale, Va.: Does frozen shrimp have to be thawed under cold running water or can I just take it out in the morning (or the evening before) for that day's dinner? It is a two-pound bag, if that makes any difference.

This time of year, I'd rather use the water in my garden than pour it down the drain.

Kim O'Donnel: Annandale, do the latter, as you suggest. Thaw in fridge. You may need to do a brief run under the water, but nothing compared to doing it last minute. Cheers.

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Washington, D.C.: Can you or the chatters recommend a good book of ice cream recipes? I'm not interested in sorbets or granitas, so one that focuses on good, fattening ice creams would be great.

Kim O'Donnel: I am told Emily Luccheti has a killer book on ice cream, which I'm eager to get my hands on. Bruce Weinstein, who has done books on candy (which are great) also has an ice cream book. Any other ideas, folks?

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Providence, R.I.: I'm going to make fish tacos tonight -- I can't stop thinking about them after reading your blog yesterday. Do you think I could use cod instead of the suggested tilapia or mahi-mahi? We have an awful lot of cod here in New England.

Kim O'Donnel: Delightful, Providence! Yes, you can use cod, albeit with reservations. Recently, it has been listed as a not so hot eco-choice by various conservation orgs, including Monterey Bay Aquarium and Environmental Defense. It's caught using bottom trawls which tend to bring in a lot of by-catch. Let me know what you find out locally, though; I'd be curious. Farm-raised catfish is also a possibility as one reader reminded me in blog comments.

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Oxford, Miss.: Hey Kim,

I'm excited to make those fish tacos, but one thing you neglected to mention: How much fish to use!

Kim O'Donnel: I did follow up in comments area, Oxford, but here goes (twice is a charm, right?)...1 pound is enough for about 9 tacos, which will feed 3-4 people. The batter could probably accommodate about 1 1/4 pounds, by the way.

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Iced tea: I make iced tea with a regular Earl Grey teabag. I steep in it in a little bit of hot water and then add cold water and ice. It's refreshing and the bergamot flavor is a nice touch. I think you could do this with any kind of regular tea bag.

Kim O'Donnel: I think if you want cloudy tea, you use hot water, and for clear, you use cold, right? Thanks for the tidbit.

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Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: Kim, I'm having some friends over to my patio for drinks before a nats game this week. I've already promised to make a platter of deviled eggs for one of my guests who, unlike YOU, is a huge fan of those yummy treats. What else can I offer up that would be a warm-weather nibble? We'll be drinking red wine.

Kim O'Donnel: I suppose I should create a blog post for all you devilled eggs fans...and then run for the hills! Seriously, though, fresh figs are scrumptious snack fare with wine, and you top them with blue cheese and basil or wrap with a little prosciutto. Fava beans are in season, too. How could I forget (note to self)...these are great fun with wine of any color...you can quickly blanch, which helps with skin removal, then offer some olive oil and salt for dipping. A fun early evening activity with some extra fiber before you down a big hot dog at the game...

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Chick Pea Summer Salad: Hi Kim,

Here's a recipe for chick pea salad that I really love.

1 can (15 oz) chick peas, drained

2 tomatoes

1 cucumber (seeded)

Olive oil

Lime juice

Salt and Pepper

Cumin SEEDs

Chop the veggies and add seasonings to taste. The cumin seeds add a really nice flavor.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for this. Bean salads like this are one of my favorite things this time of year. I'm planning to do some cold lentils soon, with red onion, herbs and goat cheese...will keep you posted.

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Alexandria, Va.: Anticipating the great crop of peaches at the local farmer's market soon -- what is the best way to freeze peaches for use during the long, peach-free winter? Is it possible to just peel, slice and freeze in a ziplock or is a sugar/ascorbic acid treatment necessary.

Kim O'Donnel: It's my understanding that you can do as you mention without the ascorbic acid, but that storage is most important. Let's ask others who squirrel away their summer peach supplies...

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Clifton, Va.: No link to Kim's blog on this chat. Someone is in trouble!

washingtonpost.com: Righto! Savoring Summer

Kim O'Donnel: Now wait a minute! There's a link on the chat page, up on the right hand side, below the daily chat schedule. Am I still in trouble, Clifton?

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Alexandria, Va.: I've got the bug to make ice cream too. Some coffee ice cream is doing its thing in my freezer right now!

Question -- I bought some rosewater. If I want to make a simple rosewater ice cream, would I just sub out vanilla for rosewater, or would I need more/less? I don't know how concentrated rosewater is compared to vanilla or other extracts. Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: I wonder if you're better using rose syrup than the water, Alexandria. The water tends to be REALLY perfumey and can almost make you sneeze. If you feel like experimenting, I might buy a bottle of the syrup for kicks. It is definitely concentrated, much like vanilla. I will sniff around to see if I can get you specifics.

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Re: Iced tea: I use maybe a tablespoon or two of hot water to steep the tea and the rest is cold. I don't know about the cloudy/not cloudy thing, but my tea is always a nice, clear amber color.

Kim O'Donnel: Excellent. Thanks for chiming in, dear.

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Rockville, Md.: Kim, We reaped the bounty of my brother-in-law's fishing trip -- I now have nine whole croakers in my freezer. The fish haven't been cleaned yet, so I can basically do whatever I want with them. I thought about stuffing some and grilling them, but is there anything else I can do with them? I've never actually eaten croaker before.

Kim O'Donnel: Croaker is lovely, Rockville. It is white and flaky, but hte only way I've ever prepared it is rolled in flour and cornmeal and lightly sauteed. Let's ask if folks have grilled croaker -- I'm curious too.

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Alexandria, Va.: I've always heard tomatoes don't go in the fridge -- kills the flavor. But what about once a tomato is ripe? I sliced a few rings off of one last night for a sandwich. Does the remaining part really still not go in the fridge? (I covered with plastic wrap and left on my counter, but that seems wrong, somehow)

Kim O'Donnel: I know what you mean. And when it's really hot out, that sliced tomato is gonna get really gross sitting out on the counter. My suggestion: Go with the tomato flow. Keep'em out before eating, put'em in fridge if you've got any leftover, and realize they won't be as grand the next day.

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Re: Blueberry Buckle: Do you think it would be successful to substitute dextrose for the sugar in the buckle? I'm fructose malabsorbent so I'm not supposed to have regular sugar (or splenda), but I can have dexrose. I had a little success recently with this -- I substituted dextrose for sugar in snickerdoodles. They came out tasting more like scones and fell apart easily. Berries are one of the fruits I can have easily -- so I'd love a dessert recipe I could have.

Kim O'Donnel: I'm wondering about stevia for you. An herb native to South America, it contains no sucrose. You can find it liquid or powdered form, and I'm thinking your nearest health food store, a place like My Organic Market or possibly Whole Foods.

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Washington, D.C.: We are having a cookout this weekend and I wanted to make veggie kabobs as a side dish. What veggies, do I marinate, how long? Is it possible to include potatoes, or would I have to at least partially cook them first.

Kim O'Donnel: Pearl onions, zucchini rounds, yes to potatoes, button mushrooms, cut-up bell pepper, carrots, cherry tomatoes...key with veggie kebabs is to cut everything into similar size, so that your stuff cooks evenly. Little potatoes would definitely benefit from some parboiling, yes. For me, olive oil, salt and pepper, and herbs is enough, but then I make a sauce... For veggies, it's fun to do a herby-garlicky-green sauce, which you can do in a food processor -- cilantro, mint, parsley and/or basil (any combo will do), plus garlic, a little heat from chiles, olive oil, squeeze of lime. Whiz everything and taste for salt. A tomato added will give extra body without fat, and in that case, you can omit the oil.

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Thawing frozen shrimp: You can also thaw them quickly in a bowl of water... doesn't have to be running water. I also hate wasting all that water.

Kim O'Donnel: Agreed. In that case, keep shrimp in a zipped plastic bag to keep from getting waterlogged.

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Boston, Mass.: In summer I like to make myself sodas with flavored syrups. I make a simple sugar syrup (my proportions are a bit different from yours -- 1 part water to two parts sugar, boiled for five minutes), then pour it over my herb of choice to steep. A glass of seltzer, a TBSP of syrup, maybe a sliced lime... delicious and less caloric/sugary than the average soda.

Kim O'Donnel: A terrific idea. I'm dying to do a lemongrass soda of sorts. Care to be the mad scientist and get back to me?

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St. Paul, Minn.: Kim, In so many recipes, a food processor is specified rather than a mixer. When should each be used? In, for example, your calfouti recipe of last week, couldn't a mixer be used just as well as a food processor?

Thanks for the response.

Kim O'Donnel: Hi St. Paul, you raise a good point. A mixer is great for cake batters, cookie doughs, stuff like that. A clafouti would fall into that category and would be fine with a mixer.

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Columbus, Ohio: Dear Kim, My daughter who lives in D.C. has introduced me to your column and I think I am hooked for life! Please share your version of homemade mayo. Thanks

Kim O'Donnel: Columbus, glad to have you on board. I will have to dig out my recipe for homemade mayo -- the only time I'll eat the white stuff...Stay tuned, and if you want, e-mail me with a reminder: kim.odonnel@washingtonpost.com

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Tucson, Ariz.: Question about grilling pizza...

I always hear people rave about doing this, even people I wouldn't consider to be advanced cooks, but I'm a little confused as to how they do it. I routinely make homemade pizza (including homemade dough) at home in the oven on a pizza stone, and can't imagine putting raw dough straight onto a pizza rack. Lately I've been seeing all these new pizza stones for the grill that come with a metal stand so that the stone isn't directly on the grill rack -- is this necessary? It makes more sense to me to use a stone in combo w/ the grill rather than putting the dough directly on the grill rack, but is the stand necessary or can you put a regular pizza stone like I already have directly on the rack? I'd love to hear from other chatters that make grilled pizza and how they do it, it sounds really good!

Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Tucson, do you ever get over to Phoenix for a little pizza luv from Bianco's Pizzeria. Friends swear that is the best pizza in the country, fyi. Anyway, to your question: I've never owned a stone, and when I have grilled, I've placed dough directly on the rack (although it was lined with oiled foil)...I like the idea of a stone, particularly for the grill. Let's hear from pizza grillers, please...

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For leftover tomato: I solve this problem by eating the whole tomato in one sitting -- or even, as happened last night, two whole tomatoes in one sitting.

Eat it all -- they are GOOD for you!!

Kim O'Donnel: Yeah, I'm of the same tomato school. I can't really leave a summer tomato partially eaten...

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re: processor: When can one use a blender instead of a food processor? Haven't quite gotten around to getting a food processor yet.

Kim O'Donnel: Blenders are getting better and better these days, as manufacturers are realizing they've got to do something to compete with the convenience of mini choppers and food processors. If your blender is new, it may have great functionality. That said, blenders are for blending, by and large. They don't have the bowl capacity or motor power to puree and pulverize like a food processor can. And of course, how would you make a margarita? Can't do that in the FP. The more liquid your concoction, the easier to use a blender. The dryer the ingredients, the more difficult.

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Maryland: I make my own sodas as well, but just use fruit juice concentrate or fresh juice and add club soda. Lovely-bubbly.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes indeed! Thanks lovely.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim - I have made your fish tacos many, many times always with great results. I have to give a shout out for corn over flour tortillas though. And have used orange ruffy with great success.

Kim O'Donnel: I know what you mean about the corn tortillas, dear. I just haven't found the right ones, though. Tell me where you get yours. Orange roughy, you mean? Caution on the PCB advisory with OR, ok?

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Pizza griller: Only pizzas I've ever grilled are the frozen Trader Joe's ones, with the partially pre-baked crust -- sorry! I think to do well on a grill, you need the large-diameter grill rack elements (not the thin wires that the cheap ones come with). Otherwise, simple physics is going to take over and your dough will dribble. You could blind-bake the dough for a few minutes on a stone or teflon pan, then transfer to the grill. But that's a lot of equipment running for a simple meal, no?

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks, and it appears that the pizza grillers are surfacing from the flour bin...

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Grilling pizza: I use a pizza screen to grill (but a stone when I use my oven). The screen allows the direct heat from the flames to get to the crust, and it's easy to put the pizza on it inside and transport it all to the grill.

Kim O'Donnel: A pizza screen, fancy. Tell us more...

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Leftover tomato: Slice it and put it into a plastic baggie, squeeze out ALL the air, and freeze. When winter hits, you can defrost those, and the skin slips right off. Straight into a pan with garlic and basil (also frozen!) and you've got a quick tomato sauce for pasta.

Kim O'Donnel: And yet another way to deal with the leftover tomato syndrome...

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Boston, Mass.: I'd love to be your mad scientist.

On the veggie kebab front, I also wanted to note that I discovered a new way of cooking on the grill -- we set the cast iron skillet right on the cool part, and stirred round onions lathered with evoo while the meat and rest of the veggies cooked. Onions got nice and carmelized and had a smoky flavor. I bet you could do the same thing with little potatoes if you put them on the grill first while the other stuff cooked.

Kim O'Donnel: Please! Break out those beakers! The cast iron skillet is often forgotten, but it's a GREAT medium for the grill Thanks for the reminder.

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Fairfax, Va.: Kim,

Is there a trick to cooking rice noodles? I usually cook them just like pasta, and they're so often mushy, or stick together. Plus, I can't really read the back of the package to see what I'm "supposed" to do, since it's not usually in English. Any hints?

Kim O'Donnel: They're pesky, ain't they? Try rinsing under cold water and separating by hand. This will help tremendously.

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Attleboro, Mass.: Hi Kim -- I also love to make fish tacos. Have used tilipia, cod and haddock. Use panko and fry in a bit of peanut oil. I buy the Mann's Broccoli Slaw and mix with jalapeno, nf yogurt, S&P, cumin and cilantro to put in the taco. Also avocado, tomato, black olives and hot sauce to taste. Thanks for a great column.

Kim O'Donnel: Attleboro, keep rockin' out with those tacos. Love the idea of avocado in my tortilla!

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Grilled Pizza: Easy way to grill pizza. Stretch dough into thin rounds about 8" across. (A 4-cup flour recipe will make 8 pizzas this side). Brush top with olive oil (and salt, if you like) and flip that side down onto a medium hot fire. Cook until you get grill marks (1-2 minutes or so). Brush the top with more oil and flip over so the grilled side is up. Add toppings (sparingly!) and slide back onto the grill (a cookie sheet without sides makes this easy). Cover with a disposable aluminum pan until the cheese melts. I've made this two weekends in a row, it's so good!

Kim O'Donnel: More grilled pizza notes...

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Maryland: Pizza stones for the grill have gotten bad reviews. When you open the grill to put the pizzas on you lose too much of the heat.

Kim O'Donnel: And more..

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Centreville, Va.: Good afternoon to everyone! My husband's birthday is this weekend and we are going camping with a few friends to celebrate. Could you recommend a good desert that we can make over a campfire or camp stove? Also, do you have any suggestions on easy cocktails that are easy to make in the woods? Something out of the ordinary (gin/tonic, rum/coke, etc.) would be great. Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Centreville -- I think this occasion calls for Dark and Stormy cocktails...buy some bottled ginger beer and some brown rum. A few limes. You won't ever want anything else for your summer sipper -- I swear! So dang good. Now, for that dessert: You could do a fruit slump in a cast-iron skillet. Blueberries wiht a biscuity topping. Do you have a fridge? Talk to me.

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Washington, D.C. -- Bubbles!: This past winter I invested in a seltzer bottle so I could make my own seltzer. Each liter that it makes requires one CO2 cartridge. It is awesome! And you can put any liquid in there and gas it up. Bubbly juice! Bubbly mojitos! Bubbly anything! I got mine at Home Rule on 14th street (off of R street). They also sell them on the web I believe.

Kim O'Donnel: Nice going. I love this. I want a chocolate soda, NOW, please.

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Washington, D.C.: Kim -- Can't wait for part two of your ice cream blog, as a proud new owner of a Kitchen Aid mixer ice cream attachment, with three quarts of fresh ice cream currently stashed in the freezer.

I'm furiously searching local supermarkets for miso paste and deep-fried tofu pockets, to make soup and inarizushi. Can you recommend either a market where I can find these things or, perhaps, somewhere I can mail-order them from?

Kim O'Donnel: I'll be curious to hear what you think of the KA attachment as well... As for deep-fried tofu pockets, I think I'd head to one of the area's huge Asian mega marts, like Han Ah Reum or Super H (in Fairfax). There are also huge Asian marts in Maryland, such as Lotte. You'd be able to get miso paste, a huge variety in fact, there as well.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim! Do you have an excellent brownie recipe? I want to make my dad a batch for Father's Day. How much of a difference does fancy-schmancy chocolate (i.e. Scheffen Berger) make?

Kim O'Donnel: I do. But I've got to dig up. Care to send me an e-mail? kim.odonnel@washingtonpost.com. I've got plain and one with fresh cherries. Yes, fancy-shmancy choc does make a difference...

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Kim O'Donnel: It is time to run already. Thanks for the delicious ideas and helping me out. Great hour. If you've still got a burning question, feel free to send me e-mail or check in with the blog: blog.washingtonpost.com/savoringsummer

Get ready, next week is the summer solstice. Midsummer night dream cakes, anyone? All best.

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