Talk About Travel

Brushes with fame, hot hostels, passages to Cuba, all-inclusives vs. regular hotels for a honeymoon and more.

The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of ... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.

Joining the Flight Crew will be Bertus Tempelhoff, of Hostelling International USA. Tempelhoff has stayed in hostels worldwide, shared Christmas with other 'travel-orphans' at HI-San Diego, and made friends from all over the world through hostelling.

We know you have a choice in online travel forums, and speaking for the entire Flight Crew, we want to thank you for flying with us.

You may also browse an archive of previous live travel discussions.

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Andrea Sachs: Hi travelers. We are back for another great Monday chat. With us today: Cindy, Anne, John, Gary, Steve and our guest star, Bertus, for all of your hostelling questions.

Speaking of questions . . . For a prize, have you ever met someone famous or fascinating or inspirational or intriguing on a plane or train? (For me, it was a firefighter/EMT on my flight yesterday from Hartford to BWI.)

And off we go!

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Just back: from 2 weeks in Prague and Croatia. What a trip! It was rather hot for a few days (like 93 degrees in the shade at 10:30 am while walking Dubrovnik's wall), but overall the trip went well. And, to escape the heat, we went on some very lovely, unplanned boat trips that we hadn't planned on otherwise.

The highpoint for Croatia was Hvar; wish we could have spent more time there. And a plug for www.croatiatravel.com, who did a nice job with plane fares and getting us some nice sobes on fairly short notice in the high tourist season.

Anne McDonough: If you're from around here, you would have had similar weather, so for your sake I'm glad you were abroad. And for high points in Prague?

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Left Coast: A couple of friends are going to London in October for a conference. Conference site: Embassy Suites. They are looking for a place to stay. If it is within easy reach of the conference site that is a bonus. One of them prefers B and Bs, the other prefers not to share a bathroom with other guests. Any suggestions for a small hotel or similar?

Bertus Tempelhoff: There are some great hostels in London - check yha.org.uk for listings - some, like YHA St. Pancras, have en suite, small rooms (4 beds), and the price includes breakfast. YHA St. Pancras is also only two blocks from the Kingscross Station, which makes most of London very accessible.

Steve Hendrix: Not sure where the Embassy Suites is, but my favorite "small" hotel is the Hotel Basil in Knightsbridge. It's used to be something of a bargain for the location, but last time I was there the rates had really jumped (or maybe it was just Euro shock).

Readers? Small hotel recs near the Embassy Suites?

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Herndon, Va: Flight Crew,

Ok, so with all of the news lately my interest is piqued...is there any way for Americans to legally visit Cuba if not on an aid mission? I'd definitely like to visit and explore tha Malecon and and Old Havana - live out my Hemmingway fantasies...

Thanks!

Cindy Loose: Ah, you seem to have an idea of what you're missing. The Malecon is truly beautiful, esp. on a moonlite night, and Old Havana is beautiful and full of music and wonderful architecture, very friendly people....But no, you basically can't go. The 47-year-old embargo until about four years ago only meant that you had to apply for a license, or go to Cuba with one of the many, many groups that organized trips, including the Corcoran and such. But the Bush Administration slammed the doors very hard. Even going on a humanitarian mission is tough---I've heard from a group that for many years took wheelchairs but now aren't allowed to go. Religious missions still get licenses. You can specifics from Treasury's Office of Foreign Assets Control, whose stated mission is to pursue the assets of terrorists, narco terrorists, people who traffic in weapons of mass destruction, and Americans who vacation in Cuba.

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For Bertus: Do you have any favorite hostels in the US you could

recommend, particularly in the Oregon/California region?

Bertus Tempelhoff: There are some great hostels in both states. Some of my favorites include: HI-San Diego, Downtown which is located in the heart of the city's Gaslamp Quarter; HI-Los Angeles/Santa Monica only a block away from the 3rd Street promonade & the Santa Monica pier, HI-San Francisco, Fisherman's Wharf located in Fort Mason; not to forget the lighthouse hostels at Pigeon Point & Point Montara. Both Portland, OR hostels are also great and really reflect their neighborhoods.

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Temporary luggage storage: Hello from Maryland, Flight Crew! When my Alaskan cruise comes back into port in Seattle in three weeks, I'll have the entire day to spend in the city before taking the red-eye home. Is there anywhere to store my luggage while I'm touring around? Or do I have to go to the airport and check in early to avoid lugging it around? My traveling companion is headed home on a flight a short time after we dock and therefore doesn't have this problem. Thanks for the advice!

John Deiner: Hey, Maryland. I've never cruised from there before, but I just Google'd it and found this on www.portseattle.org:

"Luggage storage is available at both the Bell Street Pier Cruise Terminal and the Terminal 30 Cruise Facility. Please contact the Cruise Seattle Concierge at (206) 441-6666 for details." Hope that helps.

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Washington to Germany: My husband and I are going on vacation to Germany in September. We will be in Munich for 4 nights at the start, and then we are renting a car to drive around Bavaria for two nights and eventually will drive to Dresden for a night and then end up in Berlin for 5 nights.

Can you give any good advice of which cities to go to in Bavaria, and does anyone know a good midway point between Bavaria and Dresden?

Also, I have hotel rooms for Berlin and Munich, but not for the 4 nights between. I have never not had this set up ahead of time, will I be ok? Thanks!

Gary Lee: In Bavaria, I like Garmisch, which is a mountain/ski town, any of the villages along Lake Constance (aka the Bodensee) and Augsburg.

Dresden is a dream. Even if you don't like opera, take a tour of it. And pop into the Taschenberg, the hotel across from the opera; it's one of my favorite in Europe. Don't over look the opera. In September you should have no trouble getting a really nice room on the spot.

I have no instant recommend for where to stop en route. Does anyone out there?

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London, U.K.: Thanks for taking my question. I'm travelling with a friend to Dubrovnik at the end of this month, and we're planning on spending about four days island-hopping along the coast. How much flexbility can we allow ourselves as far as doing advance planning on transportation between islands and accommodation? Should we book ferry tickets and rooms now or can we wait until we get there and figure out as we go where we want to spend our time?

Anne McDonough: I'm posting this in the hopes that the poster who just came back from Croatia wants to share some of their new Dubrovnik knowledge...

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Washington, DC: What do you think about going to Israel now? I've always wanted to go to Israel. I figure I can probably get a good deal on a tour and can restrict my travel to safer places in Israel. Would you go now?

Cindy Loose: I've been researching that very question today. More than 100,000 tourists are currently in Israel and doing fine, says the Israeli tourism office. They advise that people come and simply stay away from certain parts in the north. (Details at www.goisrael.com). Get a more cautious point of view at www.travel.state.gov.

Would I go? Yes. Would I take my only child? Probably not, given all the other choices out there. I just polled the staff and every one says they'd go, with the other parent here saying they'd even take the kids, but only to the south.

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Reston, Va: Hi Flight Crew,

I have a cruise related question for you. I'm booked on a NCL cruise the departs next month, and have found that my assigned cabin is at the VERY front of the ship. I'm prone to seasickness (I know, cruising may have been a bad idea) and have been told that the front and rear of the ship pitches more than a cabin in the middle would. I've checked with the cruise line and they say that to move closer to the middle of the ship will cost me at least $700. Do you have any advice either on how to get relocated without spending so much more, or how to avoid spending the entire week ill? The cruise leaves labor day weekend, and as far as my agent can tell its definately not sold out yet.

Thanks for your help!

Andrea Sachs: As a sailor, I can say the bow can be rockier than the center, but if the seas are calm, then perhaps you will keep your lunch down. If you cannot negotiate with the cruise line agent about switching (tell her problems, get a a doctor's note, plead), then you might want to go the medication route to combat your seasickness. Contact your doctor about meds, patches and sleeping remedies to help you through the night. Also, stay outdoors, look toward the horizon, eat mild foods, drink lots of water and go onshore as much as possible. However, if after a couple of days this is not working, speak with someone on the ship about switching rooms. Perhaps they will do it gratis.

Good luck!

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Washington, D.C.: I'm planning a vacation in Argentina for Thanksgiving. Tickets seem to be quite expensive, although I did find one on Delta for $900. Is that the best I will find, or should I hold out for another month before buying? Most I've seen have been at least $2000! Any advice for a first timer in BA?

Cindy Loose: Last year when I was planning a trip the lowest fares were in the range of $900, but oddly enough there were lots of packages that included airfare and six nights hotel, also for about $900. I'd look around for packages. I just, to pick on, tested www.go-today.com and found six nights in BA with air for just over $1,000.

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Adams Morgan, Washington, DC: Hi -- loved the hostelling article! I did a lot of hostelling in the 1980's-early 1990's, and it brought back a lot of fond memories, and some not so fond.

I think people don't realize how inconsistent the quality standards are at hostels, even those affiliated with the Hostelling International. Even within a single European country, or within a large city, the quality varies wildly and unpredictably. One really needs to check the travel guides (esp. Let's Go) to get the true scoop.

Bertus Tempelhoff: Hostelling International has some assured standards since the mid-90's and it focus on the areas of cleanliness, comfort, privacy, welcome and security. Hostels are really stepping up to the plate now that much more information and ratings are available online.

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Anne McDonough: For those who are sending in hostel recommendations...if you'd like to also email those to travel@washpost.com with "hostels" in the subject line (include your full name and hometown), they might get into the print edition.

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Silver Spring, Md: The Pigeon Point Lighthouse Hostel is gorgeous & there's a HOT TUB RIGHT on the cliffs overlooking the Pacific. I've seen whales feed right off the "point," and watched many a glorious sunset there. Even if it's foggy, it's gorgeous. PS contrary to popular opinion, the best time to visit No Cal is in the Fall, not the summer. I highly recommend a hostel trip from SF to Montara (north of Half Moon Bay) to Pigeon Point.

Bertus Tempelhoff: The lighthouse hostels are on most people's favorite lists.

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Atlanta, Ga: RE: Greensboro, NC... lovely small city. The Green Valley Grill and The Gate City Chop House are two excellent restaurants. If get bored in Greensboro can always drive down the road to High Point and furniture shop!

Anne McDonough: Thanks, Atlanta, for this follow up from last week...hope the poster whose son is headed to Greensboro is on-line today!

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Pittsburgh, Pa: Will be attending a 50th anniversary dinner in DC this Saturday. Will be staying at the Hotel Monaco. Just called them to inquire about parking, and they informed me that they charge $30 a day. Yegads! Anyone know of a public garage near the hotel that would cost less than that? Or, anyway to try to get them to reduce the fee?

John Deiner: Hey, Pittsburgh. That's a right nice hotel, and that's a right awful amount of money to pay. You have two options: I'm pretty sure you can find cheaper public parking in that area; it's right by Verizon Center and there are many many garages. Or you may luck out and find a spot on the street, in which case it's free (at least it was last time I parked on a weekend downtown -- correct me if I'm wrong folks).

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Hostels for over 35's?: Hi, here's my hostelling question: I'm thinking of going to New Zealand for 3 months and staying in Hostels. But I'm 40. Some hostels have reps as party places or beds for young 20-somethings -- neither of which I'm looking for. What sort of questions should I ask or what should I look out for to be sure I'm not staying in one of those sort of places? Are there hostels that cater to the over 30s or over 35s? Thanks.

Bertus Tempelhoff: Probably the best question is whether they have a pub/club on the premisies or in the same building and how close it is to the sleeping rooms.

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Washington, DC: Hi Flight Crew, thanks for all the good advice. I am headed to Vermont in September. I don't want to drive all the way up there without a stop. Where would be a good place to stop, about mid-way between DC and Vermont? I'd like to get out of the car and do some sightseeing. Actually, I'll need to stop on the way back too, so 2 suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!!!

Andrea Sachs: Here are some thoughts: Beacon in Update New York (where the DIA is), or anywhere south of Albany is very pretty. Another idea is Morristown, NJ, for battlefield sites and cool lampposts.

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Washington, DC: I haven't needed to fly anywhere since before 2001, and I'm trying to prepare for my domestic flight later this week. I know about the obvious - don't bring anything that could be considered a weapon, getting to the airport with even more extra time than in previous years, etc. What other things should I be concerned about?

Also, is there someplace I could find current size guidelines for carry-on bags?

Cindy Loose: It's wise to consider baggage sizes cause the airlines have become more vigilent about charging for overweight bags recently. But size and weight varies by airline, so check your airline's website for exact details.

There is other advice at www.tsa.gov. For example, be prepared to take off your shoes, empty your pockets. A bra with an underwire might be enough to set off the alarm. Before you enter security, have a govenrment photo i.d. (like driver's licence) out, along with your boarding pass, so it can be checked before you move through the security line. Don't lock your bags, or if you must, you need a TS-approved lock that the TSA can open.

As always has been the case, carry with you things you absolutely can't do without or easily replace, like prescriptions medications. Oh, and have a good time.

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Washington, DC: About five years ago, I settled into an aisle seat in the middle section of a Dallas-LAX plane. Next to me, in the middle seat, was an older African-American man, and on the other aisle was who appeared to be his middle-aged son. I drifted off to sleep, and woke up shortly before we landed. The older gent asked me if I had a nice nap, and we started talking. I commented on the saxophones on his tie, and I asked if he was a musician. It turns out, it was Maceo Parker, on his way to play at the Hollywood Bowl! I didn't have enough time to pester him for stories about the Famous Flames, but he and his son couldn't have been nicer.

Andrea Sachs: Very cool; too bad he could have played you a lullaby!

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Washington, DC: Forget the beach, I like lakes! But I never know where to find them in the DC area. I know about Lake Anna, but it's hard to find anywhere to stay there that's not a large vacaton home you can only rent by the week. I'm looking for a local lake with cottages you can rent for a weekend. Thanks!

Andy

Steve Hendrix: There's a very pretty lake at Cunningham Falls State Park, right off of US 15 near Catoctin (just north of Frederick, Md). And an hour north of there, my family often visits the two lakes in Pine Grove Furnace State Park west of Gettysburg. Cindy Loose Raystown Lake in Pa.

We'll link to a list of local lakes we compiled a few years ago. Warning: we can't vouch for the shelf life of the web sites, phone numbers, rates, etc.

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washingtonpost.com: Our Great Lakes , (June 3, 2001)

Steve Hendrix: Here's that list of local lakes.

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Pittsburgh, Pa.: The name of the Super Bowl ringed Sylvia Plath reader I met on the flight from California to PIttsburgh was Fred von Appen.

Andrea Sachs: Wow, so even athletes read suicidal poets.

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Washington, DC: Cuba's question made me wonder: we CAN travel to Libya now though, right? I know something happened to relations in the last year, but I didn't follow the repurcussions for American tourists traveling privately.

Gary Lee: You can legally travel there but friends of mine who have been report that visas are sometimes yanked at the last minute -- or end up not coming through -- so it's a good idea to have alternate plans.

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Alabama: My family and I met George Burns flying one time, my little brother had broken his arm so Mr. Burns signed his cast. He was very nice and had a cigar in his mouth the whole time. He certainly made my little brother's day. (He still has the cast, the doctor had to cut around the autograph)

Andrea Sachs: You met God I and II on the plane!

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Famous fellow traveler: While I was in College I was fying on a connecting (commuter) flight between home and school. there was some kind of problem with the plane and we were all being held in the boarding area. One of the travelers was Liberace who was travelling with his manager: huge fur coat, huge candelabra shaped diamond ring, the whole works. He was as affable and pleasant as could be, chatting with the other passangers, espousing a Norman Vincent Peale optimism about our ongoing travels, and siging autographs. I still have my ticket wallet with the autograph.

Andrea Sachs: Amazing that the plane took off with all of that heavy bling.

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Hilarious seat mate: I was flying from LA to Auckland and had a serious case of the jitters. Fortunately, my seatmate happened to be a pilot from the Royal NZ Airforce with a terrific sense of humor. When we hit some particularly bad turbulence, he gently grabbed my arm and started moving it up and down while flapping his other arm. His remark: 'they taught me this trick in flight school -- it works every time the engines fail' (which of course, ours had not).

Many thanks for the diversion, Paul!

Andrea Sachs: He did not then tickle did you? Those Kiwis.

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Greensboro: I'm the poster from last week. I'm here again (like most weeks). Thanks to the poster for the info.

Anne McDonough: See, those who stick around get rewarded--and not just with momentos from the box o'junk ;)

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Fairfax, Va: Contrary to the Hostelling author's opinion, I'm a near-50 who isn't trying to regain my youth. Just call me frugal. Hostels are wonderful ways to meet other people, and to learn about a country. I remember staying at a IYH-affiliated hostel in Amsterday a few years back. There was a big Gaugan/Van Gaugh exhibit. Sold out, of course. I was able to get tickets at my hostel for less, AND there weren't time stamped. I just wandered over to Van Gaugh's museum, and wandered in. The good hostels are always trying to connect travellers w/ each other and the community.

Bertus Tempelhoff: Although hostels are still referred to as youth hostels, we like to say that they're for youth of all ages. The hostel in Vondelpark Amsterdam is wonderful and in a really great location, close to Leidsplein.

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Arlington, Va: Thanks for taking my question! It's a honeymoon question (even though I did read the big article a few months ago): what do you think about all-inclusives vs. regular hotels? We're going in February and I was thinking Mexico (but open to the islands), but with hotel prices seeming so high where you get nothing else included, do you think all-inclusives are a good deal? We're "old-fashioned" so we're really looking forward to this trip after three years together, if you know what I mean, and so don't need a lot of sight-seeing attractions. Thanks for the recommendations!

John Deiner: Hey, Arlington, you crazy "old-fashioned" couple. I can hear those wedding bells now. Actually, a lot of people who go to all-inclusives LOVE all-inclusives, and you can definitely get a decent price. It's a nice, mostly stress-free to just chill after the big event. February is going to be peak-season anywhere it's warm, so you'll probably be paying a premium. If you can go before Valentine's Day you may save some dollars, as that's generally when the peak season really gets going.

One thing though, and I say this because my brother just went to an all-inclusive in Mexico and never left the property: Leave the property! Get out and see some stuff, if only to get a small sense of the place. You'll be totally insulated in an all-inclusive, and you may regret missing out on the reefs, or the ruins, or the volcano if you stay in one place. And congratulations!

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Castle stay in Scotland?: My boyfriend and I (early 30s) are headed to Scotland in November for the first time. We have a car and 10 days to see the country. We'd love to stay in one of the historic castles there - any recommendations?

Bertus Tempelhoff: There are some hostels that are in Scotish castles, one of the ones I have heard rave reviews about is Carbisdale Castle.

Anne McDonough: Coming up is a link to a piece about staying in castles, one of which is Bertus' rec, the Carbisdale. That should give you some good ideas to help shape your trip methinks.

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washingtonpost.com: Turret Attractions , (Jan. 29, 2006)

Anne McDonough: For the castle-seeker...thanks, Kim!

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Arlington, Va: While hitching in Ireland a few years ago, I was picked up by Tony Wheeler, the founder of Lonely Planet. I stayed in the car with him the whole day while he checked out various places for a guidebook he was helping to write. He had lots of interesting anecdotes & seemed like a genuinely nice guy.

Andrea Sachs: That's better than a guidebook.

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Silver Spring, Md: Another great midway stop between DC & VT -- Hyde Park, NY. There are numerous historic mansions and parks, and a hidden gem: Valkill, Eleanor Roosevelt's "cabin," is up there. Beautiful, interesting, and midway. There are plenty of places to stay in and around Poughkeepsie, NY, which is quite close to Hyde Park.

Andrea Sachs: Great recommendation, thanks!

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Arlington, Va: Hi, I enjoy your insight. Last Wednesday, my wife, two children (both under two - "one a lap child") and mother in law were booked to fly from BWI to San Antonio. The airline (Delta) notified them on Tuesday afternoon that the flight was cancelled & that they had been re-booked on a flight an hour later. I called Delta to ensure their seats were all together & were told that they had been placed on stand-by (except my mother in law whose ticket was booked separately). I told Delta that it was impossible to fly standby under these circumstances and they had to rebook everyone for the next day, cutting their vacation short among other inconveniences. Had I not called them, things may have been worse. How does an airline decide who is to be placed on stand-by? My guess is that the child's discount ticket meant that they had the least expensive tickets & so were automatically given the short end of the stick. I think this was tantamount to being bumped & they deserve some sort of compensation. Your thoughts?

Cindy Loose: Tough one, meaning tough for you, not the airline. I'm afraid that you don't have any firm legal footing----according to federal law in cases like this the airline must either get you where they promised to take you within a "reasonable" time, or give you a refund. A day isn't reasonable, but that leaves you with the refund option. Since a last minute refund usually means you'd have to either stay home or pay some whopping last minute fare, that's not a good option. Still, it's all they owe you. On the other hand, if you want to take the time to write to them, they might offer some compenstation out of the goodness of their business sense, but I wouldn't count on it.

As to who got stuck on standby---I doubt that it was the child's fare that got you on standby. All the airlines are tending to operate very full planes, so if they cancelled one plane with average load factors of close to 90 percent, and put you on another plane that was 90 percent booked, it's clear that lots of people are going to get left behind. I'm sure they would have taken care of their most frequent flyers first, and certainly their first and business class passengers too, but then a lot of people would have gotten the rawer end of the deal.

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Famous flyers: Glenn Close in front of me on the DCA-LGA shuttle...and she asked me if there were assigned seats and we could just sit anywhere!

Andrea Sachs: Guess the private jet was in the shop, eh?

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Fortaleza, Brazil: A couple of weeks ago I mentioned my efforts with United Airlines to switch me from Varig flights for domestic Brazilian flights as part of a trip to the U.S. using United miles. Varig has radically cut back their flights due to financial difficulties, though vow they are on their way back. Reps sometimes brushed me off, while supervisors said the airline was working on alternatives to the Varig flights. Just got an e-mail from United showing my new itinerary, including domestic Brazilian flights on TAM Airlines rather than Varig. Good for United! I only have 1 hour and 14 minutes between my flight from LAX and my onward flight to Sao Paulo, but since I'm using miles and am on United for both of those segments, hopefully they'll get me to my destination one way or another. An 8-hour layover at the Sao Paulo airport (far dumpier than Rio's) is not fun, but I'm not paying for the flight so I'll take it.

Cindy Loose: Glad to know it worked out. Yeh, United.

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Re: intriguing plane mate: Hi there. A few months ago I was travelling to Chicago for work. I sat next to a man that was a high-up member of the National Cattlemen's Beef Association. I had recently married a man who was a meat and potatoes guy while I am almost red-meat free. My "poor husband" had been deprived of red meat almost our entire marriage so I was lectured on that. I was also lectured on the dangers of bird flu. Needless to say, it was an interesting flight!

Andrea Sachs: But I see nothing on mad cow disease. Hmmm...

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Raleigh NC: Both an inspirational and famous meet on a plane...Between Minneapolis and Lincoln NE, being dead dog tired as this was a flight home from Nanjing, China, a very large African American gentleman sat next to me. He looked oddly familiar. I must've been looking quizzically or something at him, because he introduced himself, "Hi, I'm Irv Cross, glad to share a row with you." I think I babbled something like "Irv Cross???? Philly Eagles in the late 70's Irv Cross??? CBS Football 'and now back to Irv in New York' Irv Cross???" He quite charmingly said I was far too young to remember any of that. I asked him what took him to Nebraska; he was attending a banquet honoring local high school athletes who have excelled in community service projects. He explained that young athletes don't have good mentors any more that teach about giving back to their communities, so he works with a foundation to provide exactly that. He also said he was working with the Smithsonian on a history of sport as social commentary program. We had a wonderful time chatting about Jesse Owens, and Jackie Robinson, and the 60 Mexico Olympics, and Jim Thorpe, and Babe Zaharis Didrickson. He was a fascinating man, and I still hope I can bump into him again in a plane some day!

Andrea Sachs: What a wonderful story. Shows the human beneath the helmet.

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Infant Fares: Just an fyi about infant fares. My understanding is that the fare is 10% of the full economy/y class fare not the fare that the adult is traveling on.

Steve Hendrix:

Right. American said it was "10 percent of the lowest applicable fare," NOT necessarily the fare the grown-up got when they booked (Although, if you book the infant at the same time, that's most likely the fare they'll base it on). That's why you can really get nailed if you wait till you show up the airport.

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washingtonpost.com: Chicago-Style Architecture , (July 23, 2006)

Gary Lee: here's a piece we did on Chicago architecture.

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Chicago, Ill: On Cuba travel - what's the actual basis for the laws banning US travel to Cuba? I'd always understood that the Treasury was empowered to prohibit the spending of any US money either in or getting to Cuba. So does that mean we can all go there so long as we don't spend any US currency in any way?

Cindy Loose: Techically the law says simply that you can't spend money in Cuba, but at the same time, the Administration has also banned fully hosted trips, where the U.S. gov. pays. And the U.S. has made it very clear, by levying big fines, that you can't go through a third party, like a travel agency in Canada, even if you don't spend a dime of U.S. currency in Cuba.

What's the legality that? If you know a good constitutional lawyer with time on his hands, I think the abridgement of our right to travel in this case might make an interesting question for the courts. Cuba, by the way, is the only country in the world where the U.S. forbids its citizens to travel.

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Rockville, Md: Loved the hostel article! The last big trip I took I stayed in several different hostels, and tried to do my research beforehand, but should've looked a little harder--I went to New Zealand in May/June (heading into winter, and pretty cold on the South Island!) and the hostel I was staying at in Christchurch had a heater in the rooms that would only go for an hour--so you either froze all night, or woke up every hour and hit the button! I was ever so glad when I got to the next place (in Auckland) and not only did they have heat, they had wonderfully cozy blankets!

Anne McDonough: Others may disagree, but this is one of the reasons I love hostelling so much--you really have no idea what you're in at each place. And you learn to appreciate the places with heat (or A/C, or 24-hour hot water, or any of those other things that it's easy to take for granted when you stay in chain hotels).

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Washington, DC: Hi Flight Crew,

What would you recommend for a September trip to Chicago for a late thirties woman traveling solo? The Institute of Fine Arts is on my list, and also considering architecture tours. Any thoughts?

Thank you!

Gary Lee: Definitely take an architecture tour. Other fun things: take a bike ride along Lake Michigan, take a boat tour on the lake, see the Frank Lloyd Wright houses in the near-by suburb of Oak Park, catch a blues concert at Kingston Mines or one of the many other blues clubs, have a Mexican lunch at the Frontera Grille.

Bertus Tempelhoff: There's a hostel only three blocks from the Institute of Fine Arts, and as a bonus you pass the Buckingham fountain on the way. The hostel has small 6 bedded dorms with en suite bathrooms. It's also very convenient to the L.

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Arlington, Va: On a flight from Charlotte to National, I sat next to an assistant coach/scout for the Sacramento Kings. Sure, I didn't talk to him, but I kept peeking at the scouting reports he was studying. He carried a gym bag with the Kings logo and wore a polo shirt with the same logo, and his name sewn on it. Even better, his name was Bubba. I looked him up when I got home. Fascinating stuff.

Andrea Sachs: Wonder if any of the names in his report made it to the big time.

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Arlington, Va: I met an air marshall when I was flying from DC to Atlanta in business class one time. We had been delayed several times and I saw him and his partner board the plane way before the delays began. Once I arrived on board I was seated next to him and commented that his wait must have been extremely long on the plane. He was surprised that I noticed and knew who he was - I guess it's not everyday that someone calls you out on that sort of thing!

Andrea Sachs: Aren't AMs supposed to be discreet?

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San Francisco, Calif.: Re: Hostels for over 35s. You can always book a double room just for yourself if there is space available. I've done that in Australia and NZ. A lot of places have noise restrictions. But, hey,you're staying in a hostel. You get what you pay for. Listening to 19 year-old Brit backpackers singing pub songs is what traveling is all about. Isn't it?

Bertus Tempelhoff: Most hostels nowadays have private/family rooms for those that would like more privacy, but still enjoy the hostel atmosphere.

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Frederick, Md: I once saw the back of Paul Newman's waiving hand on a flight from Cape Town to Jo'burg. The Captain announced that Newman was on the flight (in first class, of course) and he waived at us folks in the coach section. That's about exciting as it got.

Andrea Sachs: Did he have salad dressing on his sleeve (then you'd really know it was Newman)?

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New York, NY: I submitted this question last week, but to no avail... my friend lives in Hong Kong and invited me to visit this fall. Is one month better than another for booking airfare (September through November)? What's a reasonable price to expect from New York, and is one airline better than another? I'm trying to find the BEST deal possible, because I'm so broke it's painful. Any tips are appreciated -- thanks!

Cindy Loose: Can someone in the audience help? For starters, if you're broke take whatever airline has the best price---in the end coach class on any airline is pretty much the same, which is to say yucky. As to the month that's cheapest---prices vary even by day of the week, so I'd test the system by plugging in a variety of dates, making sure I included different days of the week, at places like orbitz.com, travelocity.com and expedia.com. You could also go to an auction site and try that, like at priceline.com.

Anyone else have suggestions?

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Pittsburgh, Pa.: While flying back from California after my mother's death many years ago, I was trapped in the middle seat between my husband and a fairly beefy (though not fat) middle-aged gentleman who was reading a book of Sylvia Plath poems. He was dressed in conservative casual, but on one finger sported the biggest, gaudiest ring I'd ever seen, chock-a-block with diamonds. Turned out he'd been part of the SF 49ers coaching staff, so that was his Super Bowl ring! Inasmuch as I'd grown up in the Bay Area -- a Niners fan as a child! -- and my husband's a sports fan, we ended up having the most fascinating conversation with this fellow, who was en route to Pittsburgh to interview for a coaching job (which he subsequently got). Unfortunately, we never got to see him during his few years here, but we were impressed not only by his affability and sports interest, but also his intellectual side.

Anne McDonough: Um, we meant to post this before the P.S. above. Sorry about that!

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Washington, DC: Hi, I was wondering what you could tell me about the

Cook Islands. I'm thinking about going there for a

honeymoon next year but I am having trouble finding any

information on the area outside of the usual travel books/

guides.

Thanks.

Andrea Sachs: We have not been there yet, but if anyone has advice for the Cook Islands, please send us some ideas and suggestions. Thanks!

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Alexandria, Va: Re: Castles in Scotland.... We spent three nights at Dalhousie Castle, about 30 miles outside of Edinburgh. FANTASTIC place, with themed rooms (we stayed in the Robert the Bruce room -- lots of tartan), a huge and luxurious spa, a falconry (you can go out daily and watch the falcons do their thing -- REALLY COOL!) and great food. It feels like it's in the country, even thogh you're within 45 minutes of Edinburgh. We loved it -- http://www.dalhousiecastle.co.uk/.

Anne McDonough: Castles, castles castles. Thanks, Alexandria!

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Washington, DC: For Alaska hostels, I highly recommend the Denali Mountain Morning Hostel south of the Park (http://www.hostelalaska.com/), and the hostel in Talkeetna (http://www.talkeetnahostel.com/). In Denali, I had a private room in a cabin with a very comfy bed and in Talkeetna I had a private bedroom that was very like staying someone's guest room. I wish I could recommend the hostel in Homer - met lots of great people and the location is great, but the bathrooms were just way to gnarly (and I'm no neat freak).

Anne McDonough: For anyone headed to Alaska, words to the wise...

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PS - Alaska Hostels: I'm a female in my late 30's and there were always others at the hostels who were older than me - so definitely not just for kids.

Anne McDonough: This time we got the post/P.S. order right ;)

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Celebrity Fliers: I think the best place to spot celebrities is on the Shuttle to New York. I saw Johnnie Cochran, Issac Hays, Sandra Day O'Connor, and my favorite, Benjamin Bratt. Very different than your EMT, but he was very, ummm, inspiring! Yum!

Andrea Sachs: And I bet Bratt could play an EMT without getting one hair out of place.

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Alexandria, Va.: Haven't had a chance yet to read the hostel article, but am very excited to see something geared at the way I travel! I've been hostelling for about 10 years, and my impression is that in Europe, hostels seem to be much less pleasant. More run-down, more expensive, and just generally more "take it or leave it" than in, say, New Zealand, where the accommodations are wonderful, inexpensive, and the owners seem to genuinely enjoy spending time with young travellers.

And I never understood why European hostels seemed to all have curfews! They're YOUTH hostels for goodness' sake!!! So many times I had to cut short my night (and I am far from an all-night clubber) to get back in time. I don't understand it. Have things changed on that front since the mid-90s?

Bertus Tempelhoff: Hostels, just like other accomodation options, are constantly changing to meet customer demands. Most city hostels no longer have lock-outs and many have 24 hr access.

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Bethesda, Md: Hi Crew! My best friend and I are going to be up in Syracuse/Finger Lakes region next week for four days (sat-tues)... any suggestions on things to see/do/places to eat? We're both females, mid-twenties, and athletic (for hiking, etc...) thanks!

Andrea Sachs: We have not been up to that area in ages, so . . . chatsters, any ideas?

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New York, NY, re: Cuba: I don't know the details of how they did this, but some friends of mine (American citizens) just went to Cuba illegally. I believe they flew to Cancun and then on to Havana from there. Not sure the specifics of how exactly to do it (and how to access money while you're there, etc.) but wanted to note that it can be done, as long as you're not afraid of being caught. (I realize this probably isn't recommended, but they went and got back without any problems.)

Cindy Loose: Cancun is a common connections spot for Americans going illegally to Cuba, as is Jamaica and the Bahamas, but I've heard that U.S. agents monitor flights into the Bahamas and watch for Americans coming from Cuba.

The fines if you get caught are significant. Any Cuban product or receipt can represent danger of proof.

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Arlington, Va: RE: infant fares. I was surprised Cogo was surprised to be charged for an infant. I've been in the airline industry since 1980, mostly dealing with trans-Pacific, and infants, meaning children under 2 yrs old with no seat, have always been charged 10 percent of the accompanying adult fare for international flights. Perhaps the rules were or are different for intra-Americas flights but if you cross the Atlantic or the Pacific make sure you tell that you tell the airline you're traveling with an infant when you book or you will be charged 10 percent of the full economy fare at check-in.

And, if you are one adult traveling with 2 children under 2 years old, you will have to pay a child fare for one of them on international flights because 1 adult cannot hold 2 infants on her/his lap.

Cindy Loose: The real CoGo was out of town last week. That was a counterfeit CoGo!

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Washington DC: On a flight from London to Johannesburg, I sat next to a woman who had worked for three decades (and was still working) as a missionary/aid provider in the townships. She was rather cold and unfriendly, and it was like pulling teeth to get her to talk about her work. It was a 12-hour flight... I didn't have much else to do than tease out the story! Her humility-- her refusal to accept that her work was worthy of praise and special attention-- made her sacrifices seem all the more genuine.

Andrea Sachs: That's very inspirational. I cannot imagine what she has seen and heard. Hope she writes a book one day, or sits next to me.

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Washington, DC: Do you have any experience with taking a dog into Canada? Do any of the chatters? Is it worth teh hassle? After reading the Post, I want to take a trip to Quebec, but with my dog.

John Deiner: Hey, DC. We're going to throw this one out to the Clicksters. Anyone ever take Fido over the border?

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Silver Spring, Md.: My dad is currently touring Europe staying with friends and at hostels. He heads to northern Italy in a couple of weeks. Do you have any recommendations for a hostel or apartment to rent where he could set up base camp and take day trips for about a week? He's in his early 50s and up for an adventure, but has a heart condition that prevents him from doing a lot of walking, so he's something close to public transportation or that has parking. Thanks!

Bertus Tempelhoff: Unfortunately I have not stayed in any of the northern Italian hostels, check out their website at www.ostellionline.org for information about the hostels.

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Northwest Strikes: If Northwest flight attendants go on strike on the 15th, what does that mean for travelers? I have a trip booked on the 24th. Will NW rebook us with other airlines? I don't know what the protocol is. Hopefully a strike won't end up happening, but in case it does I want to know what I can do and/or am entitled to. Thanks!

Cindy Loose: We highly doubt that there will be a strike. If there were Northwest would no doubt work to get you on another flight, but if you've flown lately you know how heavily booked most flights are these days so finding a seat for you might be tough or impossible. You'd certainly be able to get your money back--not that that would be that helpful.

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Scotland: Warning for when you travel up there in november. The days are very short. I heard the stories from when my brother went up there for a conference (In November). Driving around the countryside was difficult with it dark and parts of the roads with only room for one car.

Anne McDonough: Hmm...driving around...in the dark...looking for a room in a castle. Makes for a dramatic vacation. Thanks for the tip!

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Falls Church, Va: How do I get a compliment for a Delta employee into the hands of someone who will actually get it into her HR file and it be seen by her supervisor? A baggage clerk went above and beyond the call of duty on Friday in the Atlanta airport when I accidently took the wrong suitcase out of the overhead bin. I got her full name and would like to tell what happened to Delta. Thanks for your help.

Cindy Loose: I think customer service at Detla--I'm sure they're address is at their website--would be so delighted to get a letter that wasn't critical that they'd make sure it got passed along.

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Arlington, Va: Just curious what Bertus has to say about the DC hostel. I stayed there a few days while interviewing and wasn't all too impressed...seemed so cramped and crowded. And nowhere near as friendly as other hostels where I've stayed.

Steve Hendrix: I stayed there when I first visited Washington myself! That was in 1990. Is it still surrounded by prostitutes at night?

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Harrisburg, Pa.: I wish to please share with you a cute traveling story. On a flight once, there was a little boy who was flying for the first time. After the flight attendant got to the part where she says "your seat may be used as a flotation device", he excitedly turned to his mother and asked "they have a pool on this plane?"

Andrea Sachs: That is soooo cute, the little bugger.

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Meeting someone famous: I met a famous musician on a plane. We were seatmates in first class. After some reseach once I got home it was clear that I should have been embarrased that I had no idea who he was. We spent the entire 3+ hours chatting about politics and music and how one affects the other. Totally facsinating. He gave me his email address and offered to get me into his next show (have yet to take him up on that). On the next leg of my flight, I was seated next to the pilot's kid who happened to be in a band. I mentioned who I had just met, and he acted as if I had met a demi-god.

Andrea Sachs: Okay, we are dying to know: Who was that famous musician?

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Washington, D.C.: Hello, Andrea.

Did you read "Shadow Divers", by Robert Kurson, before taking a plunge off Brielle, NJ? The book is about the exploration of a mysterious sunken U-Boat near where you dived.

Your article is great, I enjoyed reading it.

Andrea Sachs: My dad has been pestering me to read that book; guess I should relent. So glad you liked the piece.

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Baltimore, Md.: I sat next to a very intriguing stranger on a plane three years ago. Then, I married her.

Andrea Sachs: I thought that only happened in the movies. Love it!

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Rockville, Md: I have 2 weddings in Kansas City coming up this year. Is it better for me to fly Midwest for the cheaper fare or should I try to rack up my Southwest flights so I can get the free flight so I can travel somewhere I normally wouldn't?

Cindy Loose: First question is how many flights you have and over what time period. Remember, that Southwest requires eight roundtrips within a 24 month period. (Most airlines letyou keep building miles forever as long as you have some activity going on, even if it's using a few miles to buy magazines.)

If you really have good reason to hope for a free ticket, then go ahead and spend a few extra dollars for a Southwest ticket. They way I'd figure it is: a roundtrip ticket to the city I'm yearning to go to costs X, so I'm willing to pay Y--something much less than X--in anticipation of that ticket costing X.

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San Diego, Calif: I'm writing from my vacation destination to ask about how to report a theft from luggage. My husband had a pocket knife stolen from his bag on yesterday's flight here from Raleigh-Durham, passing through Cincinnati. No TSA inspection slip was left in his bag, but he doesn't think a random thief would have known to look for a small pocketknife, so he figures it must have been taken by someone who x-rayed the bag. I know he's not likely to get it returned, but he wants to file a report anyway.

Andrea Sachs: Check the TSA's Web site for info on reporting a theft: www.tsa.gov/travelers/index.shtm

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Largo, Md: Hi, Crew!

My friend and I are going to Pittsburgh this upcoming weekend for the Cardinals/Pirates series. What can two girls do for fun on the weekend? We're not that into museums, I'm afraid. Any thoughts on fun low-key bars in steel city?

Steve Hendrix: Not sure about low key, but we recently wrote about Steel Town's very excellent live music scene. We'll post a link..

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washingtonpost.com: Pittsburgh Rocks , (May 12, 2004)

Steve Hendrix: As promised.

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Kalorama, Washington, DC: Hi There,

We're thinking about taking advantage of the Sceptre Tour special deal to Scotland in February. I've looked at the average temperatures (40s), but I'm still concerned about the weather. Is it miserable (cold, snowy, dark, etc.) that time of year? Or can we look forward to crisp days and romantic nights by the fireplace?

Thanks!

Andrea Sachs: Cold and wet, but the whisky will make it worth it.

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Kensington, Md: In early June, I flew to Logan on United, and my bag never made it. They said it had been taken off the plane and put on the belt, but it wasn't there when I got off the plane. I filed a report that day. I still don't have my bag. I've called them many times, and they never sent me the claim form. The day it was "due" (45 days after it was "lost"), I called them again and someone (finally) told me it was downloadable, but he gave me the wrong URL. I found it anyway, filled it out, and sent it in. Now I'm waiting.

In the meantime, I've heard that they only pay up to 50 percent of the value?!? So I have to pay for 50 percent of THEIR mistake?!?

What are my legal rights? I've never seen or been asked to or signed a waiver when I checked bags indicating that I know they will only pay up to $2,500 max AND (not or) only up to 50 percent of the value of our claim?

Incidentally, readers should know there's also a long list of things they will not reimburse for -- some obvious, like jewelry and electronics, but it's a list worth knowing about so you don't get doubly screwed if your bag is "lost."

Cindy Loose: The max amount they must pay is set by treaty. I hadn't heard of the 50% of value rule. How would they know or prove what was the worth of what was in your bag anyway?

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Washington, DC: Hi Flight Crew. I am going to Charleston, SC for work next week. I have about a day or so to do what I would like. I am staying in the historic downtown area and would prefer to not rent a car. What can I see and do? Are there any tours you recommend? Any advice would be appreciated. Its my first time there. Thanks!

Gary Lee: Two tours I recommend are Charlestown Walks, which covers a lot of the fantasic architecture (www.charlestownwalks.com) in the city and a Gullah and Geechee tour (check www.soulofamerica.com) of the city's historic African American haunts.

Anyone else have Charleston tips?

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Hostels/sleeping in pubs: Hurrah for the article on hostels! More along that line please.

Not recommended for the faint of heart - but many pubs in Australia are called hotels for a reason, in that they provide lodging. Accomodations are very basic, and you'll have noise and smoke from downstairs, but it's a budget option when touring that country and a hostel isn't available.

Bertus Tempelhoff: Australia has some of the best hostels in the world, and a great hostelling culture. When I was traveling on the east coast, a bus driver told me I was one of 35,000 hostellers currently traveling that route.

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Washington, D.C.: In October, I will be traveling to South Korea, Beijing and Thailand. I will have about 4 days in each country. Are there any must sees in each of those countries? For Thailand, is there one beach that the Flight Crew recommends over the others? It'll be three mid 20 year old women traveling.

Thanks.

Anne McDonough: That's quite a whirlwind tour! Coming up should be a link to restaurants in Beijing (and if you need reading material, head to the Bookworm on Sanlitun, one of my favorite places in Beijing)...as for beaches in Thailand, Steve says Phuket.

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washingtonpost.com: The Dish on Beijing Restaurants , (April 30, 2006)

Anne McDonough: Thanks, Kim!

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Re: Northern Italian Hostels: I don't know exactly where in Northern Italy the poster's father is looking, but last Spring a friend and I stayed at a hostel/cheap hotel in Como called In Riva al Lago (or something similar to that) it was a block from the train station and in Como, which was by far the one of the most beautiful and relaxing places I went while there. The train to Milan is 30 minutes to an hour depending on how many stops, and there are plenty of smaller towns on the lakes to explore for the day too (all by boat of course).

Anne McDonough: Thanks for the tip!

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Andrea Sachs: Well, folks, as Bugs Bunny would say, That's all for now (or something like that). Thanks for the great questions and hope our answers were equally informative.

And for the winner: With a wave, we elect the flier who got a glimpse of Paul Newman's hand. Please send me (sachsa@washpost.com) your address for a surprise that's not popcorn. See ya next Monday!

Andrea Sachs: Andrea Sachs: Well, folks, as Bugs Bunny would say, That's all for now (or something like that). Thanks for the great questions and hope our answers were equally informative.

And for the winner: With a wave, we elect the flier who got a glimpse of Paul Newman's hand. Please send me (sachsa@washpost.com) your address for a surprise that's not popcorn. See ya next Monday!

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