What's Cooking With Kim O'Donnel
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Tuesday, August 22, 2006; 12:00 PM
Calling all foodies! Join us for another edition of What's Cooking , our live online culinary hour with Kim O'Donnel .
A graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education (formerly known as Peter Kump's New York Cooking School), Kim spends much of her time in front of the stove or with her nose in a cookbook.
Catch up on previous transcripts with the What's Cooking
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Kim O'Donnel: Hello from Seattle, and happy birthday to me. I am celebrating a big one this year, and so far it feels pretty darn good. I guess I am now officially middle aged. It's still breakfast hour here, so I remain hopeful that those clouds will make way for the sun. I ate a killer meal last night at a place called Crow. Five of us ate family style, sharing plates throughout. The food was not fancy or complicated, but the flavors spoke loud and clear. Lovely sauces. Clean preparation. Really on point. Needless to say, I'm having a good old time here. I'll try to answer as much as I can about Seattle and other Pacific Northwest travel stuff, but feel free to share what's in your kitchens at the moment. Let's go...
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Arlington, Va.: Hi Kim -- I am going to San Fran in early September on a business trip, and will only have a lunch and a dinner to schedule on my own. What is on your "can't miss" list? I know you just got back from there ... I am staying in the Union Square area, but I've never been to San Francisco at all and I am looking forward to exploring some.
Kim O'Donnel: Hey Arlington, here's something to get you started, from my blog . I did not do the fine dining thing while out there, as there was not enough time. One stop for sure is the Ferry Marketplace, where you can have lunch and browse the shops.
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Arlington, Va.: Happy Birthday Kimodo! What's cooking for your celebration today?
Kim O'Donnel: In a few hours, I am headed to Salumi, the amazing lunch spot/ cured meats emporium owned by Armandino Batali. I met him last Friday for lunch, and I've decided that even when I get married next year, he's going to be my new boyfriend on the side. Just loved his spirit. I'll post a blog post on his place after the chat, by the way. Apparently, Armandino will be slicing up a salami birthday cake for me. I guess a picture will be in order. This evening, 6 of us are eating at one of my favorite spots, Matt's in the Market. It's a very small, intimate space, where you can see all the cooking action. Can't wait.
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Allen, Tex.: Kim,
Design for me your perfect kitchen and your coice of equipment and utensils.
Kim O'Donnel: Hmm. Tough question. If I had my druthers, I'd like a big workspace. Could be an island or just a grand stainless steel table. Lots of natural light. Pots hanging from the ceiling. A six-burner stove. Two sinks. Space for cookbooks without getting in the way. What's your kitchen dream?
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Sustainable Fish: I know that Chilean sea bass should not be ordered due to over fishing -- and that it is not a true bass, but what about other types of bass? I loved the sea bass I ate in the Adriatic and Mediterranean and want to order similar fish in the U.S., such as Branzino. Can you please advise or send me to a good resource?
Kim O'Donnel: Hey there, here are my picks for sustainable seafood resources: Environmental Defense , which includes both the environmental impact as well as the latest on contaminants. You'll notice that ED is recommending only farmed striped bass because wild has become laden with PCBS, mercury and pesticides. The Seafood Watch program at Monterey Bay Aquarium is also a worthy resource. Both Web sites have seafood pocket cards and constantly update info as it changes.
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Washington, D.C.: Don't tease us about your wonderful meal without telling us what type of cuisine it was. What did you eat?
Kim O'Donnel: Last night? Well, as I mentioned we ate family style, sharing a bunch of plates. Starters included grilled grape leaves stuffed with manchego cheese, which made me swoon. I loved the combination. Squid rings with lots of garlic and little tomatoes and olives. Zoweee... An heirloom tomato-bread salad with gorgeously seasoned croutons and arugula that married beautifully with the rest. What else...Lasagna with a sauce that was so brilliantly red it looked nearly raw...A roast chicken with herbed green beans and a bread-sopping sauce....Razor clams with lots of garlic and wine over herby linguine. As I mentioned, nothing complicated, but food that felt lovingly prepared.
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Kitchen dream: Plenty of counter space and storage in drawers/cabinets, though not too far to travel to get to any main part of the kitchen; a five-burner stove with 18" griddle, and two ovens; dish drawers to accommodate the large or small clean up, preferably with removable/adjustable prongs for holding things so a simple cereal bowl doesn't have to take up so much space.
Kim O'Donnel: I agree about the dish drawers. My friend here on the houseboat has amazing drawers that take up little space.
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Commerce twp, Mich.: Just another reve on the Blueberry buckle Recipe. I baked it last Saturday while my wife was getting her hair done. We took it to share with friends and it was fantastic with vanilla ice cream. Thanks again. Paul
Kim O'Donnel: I love it! I wish all men would bake blueberry buckle while their wives were getting their hair done. Nice work, Paul.
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Durham, N.C.: More of a comment. I've created my own rendition of your blueberry buckle after picking a few gallons of blueberries at a local pick-your-own farm. It was a hit this weekend. All I did was replace the 1/3 cup of flour for the topping with 1/3 cup oatmeal and 1 tbsp of flour and 2 tbsp of chopped nuts. It added a great crunch to the top of the buckle!
Kim O'Donnel: Wow, it's so heartwarming to see how many pockets of the country are experimenting with the blueberry buckle. I told my pals here I must whip up a batchu using Washington blueberries, still very much in season. Thank you so much.
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Eat fish! :): I'm so jealous. I've lived in Seattle for eight years before moving to Dallas and miss it a lot. Make sure to eat lots of seafood, especially sushi! What a great place to be right now.
Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for checking in, dear. I really believe that Seattle is one of the best food towns in the country. So many interesting ways to dine and cook here. So much emphasis on local/seasonal. Inspirational.
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New York, N.Y.: In re: Dream Kitchen ...
You forgot Garden Window for year round fresh herbs!
Kim O'Donnel: Yes! We need a sketch of this kitchen. I also need some kind of stool for sipping coffee. Shall we have a flat top computer screen that can be tucked away when the stove fires up?
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Kitchen dream: Granite counter for baking.
Two gas ovens.
6 burner stove with wok burner and a small burner for simmering.
Space for a kitchen table and adjascent to a bigger room, so I can hang with my peeps while I cook.
Big fridge, espresso machine, coffe roaster, blender, and food processor.
Fully stocked with good knives and pots.
Window over the sink. And, of course, a dishwasher.
Kim O'Donnel: More fab ideas for kitchen. I think I might compile all these ideas for the blog...
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Capitol Hil, Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim! I love your chats -- they've certainly inspired with many ideas! Question: A friend of mine is celebrating a birthday, and is receiving nice knives from his girlfriend. To add to that gift, my boyfriend and I would like to give him a knife skills class- something of the type that they do at Sur la Table. The issue is they live in Philadelphia. Do you know of anything like that there? He's a beginner cook. (and for me, do we like the ones a Sur la Table?) Thanks for any help!
Kim O'Donnel: Fosters is a great kitchen place in Philly. Located in Reading Terminal Market. I think they have a Web site too. I am not sure if they host classes, but they are so nice there I bet they would have ideas. Check them out.
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Comfort Food: Happy Birthday!
The last couple of days have been stressful and I was thinking of making a traditional comfort meal from my childhood in Russia.
Buckwheat served with fried onions and a chopped hard boiled egg.
Makes me want to go home right now!
Dallas, Tex.
Kim O'Donnel: Dallas, you are doing the right thing, taking care of yourself with food that takes you to a happy place. Take good care and keep us in the loop.
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Divine Ms. K, Fairfax (until Nov 1, then it's Arlington again, woo hoo!): "even when I get married next year."
WHA? Has this been announced before and I'm just clueless, or was this a stealth way to make the announcement?? Congratulations!
Kim O'Donnel: Oh, Ms. K, I'm not too good at announcements. YES. I really am getting married this time. Engaged three times, but this one's the charm.
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Mandolines:
I'm looking for a mandoline for slicing veggies -- mostly potatoes for dishes like potatoes au gratin, lyonnaise, shoestring french fries, waffle fries, etc.
I don't plan on using it all that often, but I still want something sharp, easy to clean, and durable. I'm looking to stay under $50, too.
Any suggestions? Thanks!
Kim O'Donnel: You may want to buy a plastic 'mandoline' from one of those big Asian groceries. I've had mine for years and spent close to nothing for it. Love having it for the very things you describe.
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Vienna, Va.: Kim, any suggestions as to what would be a good "put you in the mood" meal? I am cooking dinner for the wife and I tonight. I have already gone the route of Filet and Lobster ... Just looking for variety. Not sure what works for you.
Kim O'Donnel: Wow. What a prince you are. Call me crazy, but a dinner with lots of garlic is very titillating. Shrimps cooked with garlic, baby tomatoes, a little white wine and then served over rice...ooh darlin', a recipe for romance. Get some local ripe peaches to share...sliced up with vanilla ice cream. A bottle of vino of course is key, and if you do the shrimp, consider a Gruner Vetliner or Pinot Blanc. Can't wait to hear what you decide!
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Eugene, Ore.: Hi Kim, Welcome to the Pacific Northwest. Question: I saw a TV show a while ago about a Seattle restaurant called "Fork." The hook was the chef was well known, but bipolar (A bipolar cook? What a shock!) His space looked great and the food sounds decent. Have you heard of this place? Also, while in Seattle, you've got to try the Santa Fe Cafe up in the university district. Great pozole.
Kim O'Donnel: Thank you so much, Eugene! My friend tells me it is now closed, but she says it was a great space and sad to see it go. I will be headed to Oregon later this week, spending some time in Portland and then sipping wine in Willamette Valley. Stay tuned for those tales in my blog.
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Another dream: I'm losing my dream kitchen due to a move across the country. The best part was the 3 ft x 10 ft counterspace right next to the sink.
While looking for a new home, we went into one where I measured 6 steps across the kitchen from stove to sink. What was that builder thinking? Big may be good in a lot of respects but you have to make the space efficient. The house hunt goes on ... with the kitchen being a hang up. Sigh
Kim O'Donnel: Keep looking, dear, til you find what you need. The kitchen is an important piece of one's living space. You'll get there. Where are you moving?
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Dream Kitchen: Plenty of windows for light and plants, and most of all plenty of room for friends and family to help, to chat, to kibbitz, to sip wine or coffee, to make a home kitchen truly at home.
Kim O'Donnel: Yes indeed. Natural light is so key in a kitchen. I have a small space but the light is what saves me. Thanks for adding to the thread...
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Happy Birthday !!!!!!!!1: Happy Birthday greetings for a wonderful day! Lucky you in Seattle my favorite place. Enjoy yourself, you deserve it. Okay, what would be your ideal birthday cake (dessert) to help celebrate! I am a sucker for an angel food cake w/ PINK 7 minute frosting and those silver balls ... thanks to childhood memories of my mom ... please share your favorite and also your over the top endulgence Thanks!
Kim O'Donnel: Well, I'm a sucker for chocolate layer cake I must admit. I don't know if you remember, but last year I wrote about finding the ultimate chocolate cake recipe, and I found it, in "The Gift of Southern Cooking" By Scott Peacock and Edna Lewis, who died earlier this year. Truly the best chocolate cake I have ever put to these lips.
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My dream kitchen: I used to live in a tiny apartment with a folding table and two folding chairs, but it never a problem when it was filled with family or filled with friends!
Kim O'Donnel: Good point. People are an important ingredient in a dreamy kitchen. I couldn't agree more. Thanks for the reminder.
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Peach Cake: Had to share a big kitchen success this week -- I made a skillet peach cake from Deborah Madison's Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, and it came out great.
You melt butter and brown sugar together in a skillet, then add a bunch of halved peaches, cut side down, and nuts (I used walnuts). Then comes a cake batter with ground nuts as well as flour, you bake it, invert it, and voila! An upside-down peach cake. One of the easiest things I've done in a long time. And it kept the flavor of the peaches well.
Kim O'Donnel: Excellent work, dear. Thanks for sharing your hit peach parade. This sounds grand.
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For Arlington heading to S.F.: Is Greens (in Ft. Mason, near the Marina) still open, and is it still good? I had two of my greatest vegetarian restaurant meals ever there.
Kim O'Donnel: I think it is still open. Perhaps it's time to check the San Francisco Chronicle Web site to get scoop on its status...
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Mandoline follow-up: Any Asian markets in mind? Preferably in Arlington? Suggestions?
Kim O'Donnel: Han Ah Reum in Merrifield, or Super H in Fairfax. I can't remember if Bangkok 54 in Arlington carries them.
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Arlington, Va.: Kim, I tried your coffee granita treat a few weekends ago. Much easier than I thought it would be and it kept just fine in the freezer for a week. Last week when I was trolling the Internet I saw a recipe for a cantalope granita and for the life of me can't remember where! Was it in your chat? Creative loafing? Another food chat? Can you help me out before my big old cantelope from the Courthouse Farmer's market wastes away?!
Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for the granita report, Arlington. I did a column last year on cantaloupe soup. I wonder if that's what you're referring to. Add some basil and mint to your granita. It'll send you to the moon. A little cayenne -- just a smidge-- will work wonders too.
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Eugene, Ore.: This probably won't get in but you've got to try King Estate pinot! Best I've had since French burgundy.
Kim O'Donnel: It's in, it's in! Thank you for your Pinot thoughts. It appears I've got a lot of sipping to do over the next several days. Will keep you posted.
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Dream Kitchen: I have my dream kitchen! Even though it's not perfect, it's part of a home my husband and I bought together. It's big, lots of light, plenty of seating and it opens to the family room so you can be with loved ones while cooking. Compared to apartments, there's lots of counter space and plenty of cabinets for everything!
Kim O'Donnel: Nothing is perfect. But it sounds postively dreamy. Dreams come true if you let them.
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Dream kitchen: I would like an oven separate from the burners (or hob, as burners are called in my native Britain). This is to have the control of gas under pots and pans but the even temp of electric for the oven.
I might also like an Aga, but that's a Brit thing.
Kim O'Donnel: More excellent ideas for this dreamy kitchen. I can't wait to compile these into a master dream list...
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For Vienna, Va.: Re "put you in the mood" meal: fresh sliced peaches are even better over raspberry sherbet or raspberry frozen yogurt -- so Melba-y! Another tip: don't fix huge servings, as they tend to make people sleepy too soon.
Kim O'Donnel: Lovely. I particularly like the idea of staying awake...
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Alexandria, Va.: Pretty please help me out ... a big bowl of peaches' fate is in your hands! I'm thinking of making peach ice cream -- I've been making ice cream like crazy this summer. But every time I whip up a batch, no matter where the recipe is from, there's a gummy residue left on the spoon and inside the churning bowl (and the bowl I freeze it in). I'm assuming this is the fats in the ice cream coagulating on a hard, cold surface, but I've never experienced this with store-bought ice cream. Is this just a side effect of homemade ice cream or is something wrong with my technique? Many, many thanks!
Kim O'Donnel: Alexandria, what kind of custard are you making? Tell me more. I've not experienced this phenomenon thus far and would like to help you with a diagnosis. More info please!
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Scallops for Dinner, mmmm: Kim,
Any tips on an easy prep for sea scallops. Got a major craving for them today. Maybe with pasta?
Thanks
Kim O'Donnel: A quick sear in a hot skillet, served over some arugula or watercress, served with sliced peaches. You'll be in heaven.
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Albany, NY: Hearing about the husband cooking for their wives...and sitting here appreciating comments from co-workers for homemade chocolate cupcakes i brought in today...makes me think of a quote I heard a while back -
"If you have the ability to cook, you have the ability to make people happy. What more could you want?"
Love your chats & conrats on the upcoming wedding!
Kim O'Donnel: I couldn't agree with you more, Albany. Cooking is about connecting with people on so many levels. It brings us together as families, communities, cultures. Just think, even during wartime, when buildings and houses turn to rubble and people's lives are thrown to the wind, the recipes remain. On scraps of paper, in our memory banks, in our hearts. As culinary historian Barbara Haber said recently in her talk at the Library of Congress, cooking is a reminder of normal life. It grounds us. Thanks for the comments.
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Dream kitchen: Being able to reach from one countertop to the other is my saving grace! I love that, everything is where you need it.
Kim O'Donnel: Ooh, I love that idea, too. A wide countertop is so luxurious.
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airy dreams for dreamy kitchens: Excellent (and quiet) exhaust fan/hood, nice ceiling fan with cross-vent windows for fresh air in any season that permits it, and radiant heat floors -- oh, heck, let's make them hardwood while we're at it -- for toasty toes on cold winter mornings (Midwesterner here, sorry!)
Kim O'Donnel: Radiant heat floors..wow! Yes, that sounds like a dreamy idea for those cold Midwestern mornings. Yes indeed.
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Kim O'Donnel: Signing off. There's salami birthday cake to attend to. Thanks for all the well wishes and terrific ideas. And men, keep up the good work! Post-haircut blueberry buckles, romantic meals -- please, keep it coming! A big high five from this side of the country. Blog post up shortly, and stay tuned for more culinary adventures from the Pacific Northwest. All best.
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