Ask Tom
Sushi on the Hill and Noise

Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, August 30, 2006 11:00 AM

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema , The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. You can access his Postcards from Tom to read his recommendations for other cities, read his dining column and the Weekly Dish or read transcripts of previous "Ask Tom" chats . Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

The transcript follows.

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Tom Sietsema: Delicious news for those of you who might like a nip stronger than soda with your fish and chips at the recently opened Eamonn's / A Dublin Chipper (728 King St.) in Old Town: as of today, beer and wine are part of the program.

Even better, the 30-seat upstairs bar, PX, is poised to open Thursday, Sept. 7. Chef Cathal Armstrong, who co-owns the nearby Restaurant Eve, depicts the second-floor retreat as looking like a speakeasy, with a door bell that must be rung to gain entrance and vintage libations served in appropriate glassware. (For instance, grog will be served in a "pirate's glass" with a see-through bottom, explains Armstrong, the better to see any enemies as one downs his drink.) Restaurant Eve's ace sommelier and mixologist, Todd Thrasher, is the name behind the cocktails. Patrons will know the bar is open by watching a light near the exterior entrance; if it shines blue, they can belly up to the counter.

The letters? PX is a play on the restaurant industry's code for a Very Important Person: PPX. (Other codes include PPI for an investor and PPR for a regular.)

In other restaurant developments, BLT Steak, the spinoff of New York's popular restaurant of the same name, is now expected to open mid-November at 1625 I St. NW. BLT incorporates the name of the chef-owner in its full name: Bistro Laurent Tourondel -- "a cross between a bistro and a steakhouse," Tourondel shared earlier this year. BLT was originally scheduled to open this summer.

A few chats ago, someone complained about not being seated promptly when so many tables appeared to be free. The following post was sent to me after the live chat, but I wanted to share it with you anyway:

"What's with the Seating?: Tom - from a former AGM - the complex algorithm used to arrange seating in a restaurant should merit a Nobel prize in math for the restaurant industry.

While eye rolling is never acceptable, diners should be aware that trying to organize diners coming in, when they are coming, when they need to leave, what tables will accommodate them, making sure guests are spaced evenly among servers, special requests and the myriad other issues that this involves makes this a task nowhere near as easy as it may seem to the casual observer.

One of my most hated moments in a restaurant was trying to explain to someone who walked in off the street why I could not seat them even though the dining room appeared almost empty - the concept of reservations all arriving within the next 15-30 minutes, and the inability to seat, serve and exit the walk-ins in that time was always taxing. yet lord help us if there table was not ready when they had a reservation . . ."

Ready to talk food and restaurants? I know I am. Let's roll.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom.

I moved to Washington D.C. one year ago from San Francisco. While I appreciate the seasons, finding appreciation for the D.C. restaurant scene has been difficult for me. I now recognize that I was spoiled living in San Francisco. The food here doesn't just seem to be "fair", but actually quite -bad-. My friends insist that I am being a snob. But as I watch Sysco trucks deliver to what locals consider to be "fine" restaurants, I am appalled. You would be hard pressed to find a Sysco truck in SF, save for one driving to the Sam Quinten prison cafeteria. Am I being too hard on DC? My friends back home tease me, reminding me that I am living in the South. Say it isn't so!

Tom Sietsema: Trust me, you can get bad food in the city by the bay, too. Just where are you eating that causes you -- and now me -- so much pain?

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Arlington, Va.: Here's another complaint about slow service, but with a twist. There was a large event at the restaurant where my husband and I had dinner last Friday, and they turned in their food order JUST BEFORE we submitted our order. As a result, our appetizer got lost in the shuffle. But, when our waitress realized what happened, she got her supervisor to explain the situation to us, and they then comped us the appetizer. I thanked them for being honest with us (so many times they don't even bother to apologize/explain), and when calculating the tip, I figured in the amount of the free appetizer (it was grits with shrimp and sausage). And if there was more parking around this restaurant, we'd probably go back (it was near Courthouse).

Tom Sietsema: Three cheers for the restaurant's honesty -- and kudos to you for tipping the server as if the freebie you got was part of the tab. I love a story where everybody wins at the end.

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Rockville, Md.: I love Korean food but always wonder why it is so expensive compared to other Asian cuisine. Any insight into this?

Tom Sietsema: Gosh, I haven't noticed that. Can you offer up an example or two?

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College Park, Md.: Tom,

Lowly college student here coming up on the 1 year anniversary with his significant other. We are going to the Kennedy Center for a show, and I was wondering if you could recommend a good French restaurant in that are of the city. For this night, money is no object.

Tom Sietsema: Marcel's is nearby. It also runs a limo between the restaurant and the KC, or at least it used to, so you can return for dessert after the show.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom, love the chats. Usually I am a passive participant, but after Saturday night I had to write in with one question: When are DC restaurants going to realize that it takes more than good food for diners to have a pleasant experience that makes them want to come back to your restaurant?????

The place: Kinked's

The reason: My sister was in town, and she had fond memories of the restaurant on two prior visits to DC

The food: Very good. Nothing to complain about here: excellent appetizers (ricotta gnocchi with wild mushrooms in a light butter cream sauce perfectly paired with small bits of salty pancetta; incredible red pepper soup; and a great classic shrimp cocktail). Entrees were good too, especially the cod specialty with spoonbread and sweet potato puree. Desserts were not as impressive, the chocolate tart with peanuts and caramel sauce was quite good, but the trio of creme brulee didn't compare to that at Charlie Palmers. The wine was WAY overpriced. Everyone knows they have a good selection but we were offered no help in making our selection.

The problem: WHERE to begin? The service was pretty terrible. We had to flag down our server at every step of the meal. Never once were we asked how things were. The wine didn't arrive with the meals. Our non-seafood eater wasn't given a steak knife and it took five minutes to get the waiter's attention for this detail. We were seated in what I thought was an undesirable location despite having a reservation for months. As it turned out, it was the only spot in the restaurant that had air conditioning that night!!! With the open kitchen, the other parts of the restaurant were seriously thirty degrees warmer. The bathrooms smelled like sewage all night (maybe that was related to the air?)

The solution: It certainly would have been nice to discuss these problems with the manager on the way out, but there wasn't one to be found. Although we waited near the front for a few minutes, no one came to speak with us.

The moral: SERVICE SERVICE SERVICE! Good service makes otherwise forgettable food into a great evening. Just imagine what good service can do with great food?!?!

Tom Sietsema: Indeed. Service is almost as important as food quality anymore, judging from the comments I get from readers.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom!

Happy Wednesday to you. I was just wondering... Is there something that you absolutely do NOT like to eat, but have to for reviews sake? For example, I don't like bivalves (mussels, clams, whatever) because of the texture. Tell us, is there something you can't stand to eat?! PS. for the lady that doesn't like cilantro: I LOVE IT and COULD EAT IT BY THE RAW, FRESH bunchful!

Tom Sietsema: About the only ingredient I truly do not like is licorice. Somehow, I still manage to eat and write about dishes with fennel in them.

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Takoma Park, Md.: Re: Kinkead's. What is the best dish there these days? I'm taking a small army there on Friday.

Tom Sietsema: If there's whole dorade on the menu, spring for the Mediterranean fish.

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Challenge: I also work near the Washington Post building. Here's my question: What can I get for lunch that is under $7.00 and is not a sandwich??

I'm getting sick of sandwiches.

Tom Sietsema: I don't have a menu in front of me, but I really like the homey Mexican-Salvadoran-Peruvian cooking at the storefront known as Casa Blanca (White House) on Vermont Ave. I bet there's something there for less than your limit.

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Chevy Chase (re: Black's Review): Tom -

Have to say that I agree w/you and disagree on your Black's review. While I'm a major fan of Mr. Black's other ventures, my dislike about the new BB&K is that it's really just another BlackSalt. While I like BlackSalt, I do miss the old, musty atmosphere that BB&K once was. -Granted, that's why he needed to improve it since it was too old.] There were very few places like that in Bethesda to go for just dining at the bar and getting great food (always loved the calamari, duck enchilada was fun and the cheeseburger was a major favorite too).

I recall the old staff there saying that he was going to go more upscale because Bethesda was ready for it (agreed) but I wish that they kept the bar a little closer to what it once was.

That said, where in Bethesda can I go for great food at the bar that has a real bar? I can't think of a single place.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Black's Bar and Kitchen .

Tom Sietsema: Me neither, I'm sorry to say. I'm a fool for a well-made burger.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom. Thanks for chatting. We are proud new parents. Do you have any suggestions for good restaurants that are particularly tolerant of infants, with their uncouth tendencies? You know, places where the waiter would smile instead of frown at a crying infant. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Samantha's in Silver Spring does a great job with young families. So does Four Sisters in Falls Church. (Notice a pattern? Hispanic- and Asian-operated restaurants tend to do well by kids.) Closer to you, Two Amys is Stroller City on weekends in particular. And you might want to audition the recently expanded Matchbox in Chinatown.

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Annapolis, Md.: Good Morning, Tom.

I enjoy your work, and always look forward to the columns in the magazine. I especially appreciate it when you review restaurants that are a little farther afield. Do you have any plans to investigate Annapolis? I've read your mentions of O'Learys and Rockfish, but we have many more restaurants out here than our population would suggest, and I'd be interested for your take on the scene.

Tom Sietsema: I get to Annapolis a fair amount, actually. We have lots of readers up that way. Another excuse for me to make the drive is the very good, family-run Lewnes' Steakhouse on Fourth St.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Lewnes' Steakhouse .

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom--

Birthday tomorrow and we want to go to a real good breakfast buffet. I am being told that is impossible to find around here. Any suggestions?

Tom Sietsema: I'm stumped, but I'll toss your plea to the peanut gallery and see if anything comes back.

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Galileo grill: When is the last day to enjoy Galileo's grill before it closes for renovations?

Tom Sietsema: The Grill is a go today and tomorrow. As for next week, ask me next Wednesday. Chef Donna has not made any final decision just yet on when he'll stop making those great Italian sandwiches downtown.

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Washington, D.C.: I am having trouble bringing up last week's chat to quote it exactly but I do remember a comment that I would like to address. A diner seemed to have enjoyed a meal in a restaurant but complained that they waited a long time for the check and finally had to ask for it.

Please tell your readers that it is considered polite, good fine dining form for the server to wait for the customer to ask for the check.

Would love to do my part to reduce the incidence of unnecessary irritation-

Carolyn Stachowski

Restaurant Kolumbia

Tom Sietsema: You're right. Thanks for bringing up the subject.

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Blue Duck: Enjoyed your article on Blue Duck Tavern...went there a couple of weeks ago and it was divine! Agree the space is ambitious and often difficult to navigate, yet it is beautiful...feels almost of a mid-century modern sanctuary. I love the choice of chairs as much as I did the food. Very knowledgeable and attentive staff matched with the decadent tastes and beautiful, open kitchen made the evening such a treat. We were there for a family dinner, but I would go with girl friends or on a date. I think it's one of the most promising and special places to open since Rasika.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Blue Duck Tavern .

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Washington, D.C.: We are going to Las Vegas in September and have reservations at the Thomas Keller place and Joel Robuchon Mansion. Any further suggestions, or comments about these places? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: My food pals are raving about the latest addition to the city's dining scene, an import from Paris: Guy Savoy in Caesars Palace. But you need big bucks to sample it. Even with modest wines, the tab for two edges into four digits. (You read that right.)

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Rockville, Md.: Tom, I enjoy your chats and columns - you're a great writer and your recommendations are usually spot-on. Since we're so often in sync in terms of dining preferences, I just had to ask your opinion:

After reading your glowing reviews of Carole Greenwood's cooking, I finally tried Buck's. And I was really underwhelmed. Of the very limited menu, a third of the appetizers/salads and entrees were sold out (I was surprised, since we ordered before 8 p.m.). My date's iceberg wedge (when will -that- trend be over?) was topped with a dressing that he said tasted like Heluva Good bacon-horseradish dip (he was right!). The cornbread that came with my sickly-sweet duck was entirely devoid of flavor. The service was awkwardly paced, and our waitress wasn't able to tell us about any of the wines on the restaurant's list. To the restaurant's credit, my date's steak and my chocolate cake were superb. All in all, a very "eh" experience, one that surprised me given your favorable reviews of the place.

I know that you recommend giving restaurants more than one chance to make an impression, but dinner at Buck's is not cheap, and I don't know that I want to spend a decent amount of money at a restaurant that has already given me a less-than-satisfying experience. What about you: have you visited Buck's recently? If so, are you still pleased with the food and service? Would you recommend that I suck it up and give the place one more shot, on the off chance that'll I'll have a glorious experience? And can you recommend other favorite restaurants that offer similar fare?

washingtonpost.com: Review of Buck's Fishing and Camping .

Tom Sietsema: When she's on, Ms. Greenwood is ON. No one makes a better, chunkier gazpacho and few chefs come close to delivering the awesome prime sirloin she is known for. And I adore her old-fashioned desserts. But the menu is too small and repetitive; even one slip is too many, given the relatively few dishes a diner finds. That said, would I return? Sure. But not as often as I have in the past.

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Washington, D.C.: SanFran chatter -- our food here is bad? Have you eaten at minibar? Corduroy? The Galileo Grill at lunch or Restaurant Eve at dinner? Have you tried the prosciutto at Dino, the steak sandwich at Agraria, the cheese plate at Firefly? Chicken at Palena? The duck fat fries at Blue Duck Tavern? Even the handroll bento at Teaism?

Someone who can't find fantastic food in DC is not trying. Stop looking at the Sysco trucks and taste what's on your plate.

Tom Sietsema: Well put. Succinctly delivered.

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Washington, D.C.: Is PX a bar for locals or a tourist ride. I have to ring a bell to get in the door and or make sure the light is on. Sounds like Disney to me. But will wait and see. Just open a good bar no bells and whistles.

Tom Sietsema: I hear you. What's fun the first visit might become tedious by the eighth. But the owners tend not to march in place; they seem always to want to improve on their work.

Psst: Insiders (the real VIPS) will be able to reach the second floor bar from INSIDE Eamonn's, as opposed to the exterior entrance that mere mortals will be expected to take.

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Bethesda, Md.: Hi Tom,

My roommates and I were thinking of taking advantage of the deal at 1789 ($35 for a 3 course meal) that's going on right now. I've never been because it's a bit too pricey, but the deal sounds great! Any thoughts on the new chef? Do you think it's worth the trip? What should we get if we go?

Thanks for the input!

Tom Sietsema: Well, I DID give the restaurant and its young chef three stars -- an "excellent" rating -- just a few months ago ...

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Clear-bottom tankard: As I understand it, men used to get conscripted into the navy in bars. If a man unsuspectingly found a gold coin in the bottom of his drink - bought for him by the ship's crew - he would be carried off for service.

The clear bottom allowed him to see the coin before he drank the ale and became "obliged" to join. Or something like that - as opposed to seeing your enemied as your glass was tipped. Can I get confirmation from someone on this?

Tom Sietsema: Fascinating. Anyone care to comment?

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South Pacific!: Hi, Tom. I was perusing your postcards and couldn't find info on New Zealand or Bora Bora (granted they are VERY far away). I just wanted to open it up to the group with two questions:

1. Thoughts on dining in New Zealand (general trends or specific restaurants in Auckland, Rotorua, Queenstown or Christchurch & environs) - I've heard not great things!

2. Bora Bora - in a land where a simple hamburger costs $20, is there any hope for quality budget dining?

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!

Tom Sietsema: One of these days, I expect an astronaut to ask me where to eat -- above Earth.

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Herndon, Va.: For the poster who thinks Korean food is expensive compared to other Asian cuisines--you need to look at the big picture. In an upscale Korean place yes, you may be paying $25 for that beef Kalbi, but it is coming with 9 panchan, a bowl of soup, possibly a salad, and fruit or a cold dessert drink. We rarely order an appetizer at a Korean restaurant due to the panchan, so the overall tab is generally on a par with Thai and less than Japanese.

Tom Sietsema: Right-o. The quality of the meat and fish or seafood must be factored into the equation, too.

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Breakfast buffet: For the chatter looking for a breakfast buffet - Whitlows on Wilson in Arlington (Clarendon) does a good one. I don't know if it would be your idea of "nice" - the atmosphere is very casual, but the buffet is pretty extensive and the food is good. Call first to check on times, I don't think the buffet starts until a couple hours after they open. Ireland's Four Courts in Arlington (Courthouse) does a nice one too, though it doesn't have as many items as Whitlows.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the tip.

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20015: Hi Tom

Horrible experience at Notti Bianche last week. They have a lunch special 'lunch on the run' but there appears to be serious internal communication and customer service problems within the restaurant as the same waiter was permitting some diners to order ANY salad or pasta while only allowing others to order CERTAIN salads or pastas. When we pointed out the discrepancy to the waiter upon hearing him allow another table order a salad we weren't allowed, he sneered, "OK, why don't you tell the lady she can't have her salad".

We complained in the restaurant but because it was lunch there was no authority figure there (maitre d was approx 20 yrs old) Interestingly I emailed the general manager with a follow-up complaint but she has not seen fit to reply to me yet.

Tom Sietsema: Hmmmm. I'm sorry to hear that. As far as the email goes, I'd give an authority figure 48 hours to respond. You never know when someone is on vacation or how much correspondence someone receives. (Trust me!)

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aargh: for the love of god, man, it's eaMoNN's, not eammon's. 1 M, 2 N's.

Tom Sietsema: Were those my fingers typing too quickly?

Eamonn's it is.

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Falls Church, Va.: Tom, I just wanted to send out compliments to Acadiana, where I had a birthday dinner with 15 people last Friday. As you suggested, I arrived early and spoke to the manager (Kurt) and our server (Dawn). They were extremely pleasant and helpful, and made the whole night very special. Dawn was especially wonderful: she knew the wine list well and helped my guests make selections, was very attentive to us and made sure the whole evening ran smoothly. Even the pastry chef was more than accommodating, as I brought in a cake (shipped from New Orleans) of a variety he makes there himself. He complimented us on the selection of the cake (from a famous bakery) and asked if he could decorate it with "Happy 30th". Everyone had a wonderful time, and I wanted to publicly thank Acadiana and its staff.

Tom Sietsema: Hats off to Acadiana ...

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Washington, D.C.: re:diner with infant:

As a member of the restaurant industry and a father of a 2 year old, I would say that infants (0-6 months) are ideal dining companions, if you can try to schedule it so that you bring a bottle to feed them when you are seated and hopefully they will nap through most of your dinner. If they cry alot, you can always just grab the baby carrier and go outside for a minute, the motion from the walk will usually put them back to sleep. It's when they are older (2 years, as I'm now finding out)that public outings are a challenge, as they don't want to sit still at all. Enjoy it while you can.

Tom Sietsema: From one who knows. Thanks for weighing in.

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Great Recovery: We were recently out at a restaurant/bar in Loudoun that really impressed us with a really wonderful recovery from a service "oops". My food arrived and was only luke warm; when I asked for them to heat it some more, they apologized, replaced it with a fresh meal, offered a salad or appetizer while I waited (I declined, knowing I could never eat all that), and when the check came, comped my meal with and gave another apology.

Needless to say, because of the prompt correction that went beyond what I had asked for, we won't hesitate to go back again.

Tom Sietsema: And the gracious restaurant in question is ....?

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What?: You have NOT eaten on a space shuttle flight? HOW can we rely on you? You hold yourself out there as willing to experience anything and claim to have a discriminating palate, yet there are heights to which you refuse to ascend for us. Had you shuttle-dined you would know that outer space comes with any number of things to recommend it: (1) no crying babies; (2) no crumbs; (3) no cilantro.

Tom Sietsema: Stop! Stop! I'm choking on my coffee! (Much to the satisfaction of a few restaurateurs, no doubt!)

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Bethesda Bar: For the reader missing Black's Bar in Bethesda, if it's the burgers you're missing, try the bar at RiRa. Totally different type of restaurant overall, but really good burgers available at the bar. And -- although I almost hate to share this -- burgers are half price on Wednesdays.

Tom Sietsema: RiRa. That's a new one to me. (And it's Wednesday!)

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Arlington, Va.: Tom - How do you feel about buffets? They kinda freak me out..especially sushi ones.

Tom Sietsema: Honestly, I'm not a big fan of most buffets. Too much food, too many people hovering over it all, etc. Plus, I think people tend to over-serve themselves, trying to "get my money's worth." In short: gross.

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Service in restaurants....: For me, it's the #1 issue. To my thinking, great food can be ruined by lousy service, and mediocre or bad food can be offset by good service. I'll return to a restaurant where I didn't quite enjoy the food, because I'm aware that even chefs have a bad night. But if the staff doesn't give me any indication that they appreciate that I'm spending my hard earned cash in their establishment or if they aren't responsive to issues, there is NO WAY I will ever return. Unless it's a quality kosher deli...they're supposed to be grumpy, with a wink and a smile.

Tom Sietsema: Your post pretty much sums up my reader mail.

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Washington, D.C.: Have you read "Heat," Bill Buford's book about Mario Batali and Babbo? There is an interesting passage in the book about restaurant critics. In essence, Batali knew exactly who the NYT critic was and when she was coming, and ensured that every aspect of her service was perfect. He even refrained from making certain changes to the menu until after the review had appeared, in order not to take any chances. Do you have any sense of how well-known you are to restaurateurs around here (who surely would not be dumb enough to let on that they recognize you)?

Tom Sietsema: I've been doing this job for six years now. A lot of places recognize me. But I take pains to get around that - pains that I'm obviously not divulging here. For the record, I've been to most of the major restaurants in disguise at least once.

There's one well-known restaurant owner who makes a point of having half his staff come over to chat me up. I cringe every time it happens. The worst experience was when the chef came out and said "I know you don't like my food, but ..."

What am I supposed to say to THAT?

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Washington, D.C.: What is Peter Smith (previously of Vidalia) doing these days?

Tom Sietsema: He's very close to opening a new restaurant, that's what the chef is up to these days.

washingtonpost.com: The Weekly Dish on Peter Smith .

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

Would love to hear your thoughts on a recent experience. My boyfriend and I were recently dining at DC Coast for a special occasion, and although we are both in our late twenties (and look it) and obviously dressed for a special occasion, the waitress ID'ed us both when we ordered our martinis. We don't mind being asked for ID's at bars, but we both thought that given the circumstances, it's a little embarrassing to be carded at a fine dining establishment (especially when we're both obviously of age). And if they're worried about underage drinking, then all patrons should be ID'ed, regardless of how old or young they look.

Thanks for your input. P.S. The rest of our dinner was fabulous.

Tom Sietsema: Hey, when even I'M getting carded, you know local restaurants are serious about not wanting to lose their bar tenders and/or liquor licenses. As silly as I think it is, local government has put time and money into identifying restaurants that aren't verifying the ages of would-be drinkers. Like long security lines at the airport, it's part of dining out in the nation's capital these days.

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Union Station, Washington, D.C.: Tom,

Have you been to White Tiger, the Indian restaurant by Union Station? A lot of us in the office thought the food was good, but actual Indians here think otherwise. I thought this place was one of the finer places in DC or the more established. So, are we wrong in thinking this is good food or are we just ignorant and don't know what good Indian food really taste like. thanks

Tom Sietsema: In Washington, there's much better Indian food to be had at the Bombay Club, Nirvana and Heritage India (though the latter isn't quite as memorable as it once was, based on a recent taste-tour there).

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Washington, D.C.: Last weekend I had a dinner reservation for a party of two at La Ferme in Chevy Chase. My date and I were on time, dressed appropriately. The table we were shown to was in a horrible location so I asked for another. We were then offered outdoor seating but, because of the heat, we declined. We then had to wait for next availability. As we waited, three other parties of two were seated. When a manager-type was asked why, we were told we refused the table offered so would just have to wait. We decided to leave. Is this the usual way restaurants seat parties, or is La Ferme just a bit snootier than others? I'm just curious more than anything. Thanks for your input and for your weekly chats.

Tom Sietsema: Just curious: Did the parties seated ahead of you opt for the tables you declined? And did you spot an available table that you would have liked? I feel I need more detail in order to respond to your question. One thing is for sure: Le Ferme's manager sounds like he needs a refresher course in hospitality.

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Silver Spring, Md. - Ray's Classic: We went to Rays the Classic in Silver Spring the other week. Food was delicious. Service - great. Acoustics... not so good. I think I could hear everyone in the restaurant except my husband. Do you think there's something they can do to improve this?

Don't get me wrong, the value for what you get is the best around, so we will definitely be back even if they don't' change a thing about the sound

Tom Sietsema: Noise is one of the biggest complaints I get. I think it's one of those problems that isn't obvious until the doors open and the crowds pour in, however.

More and more, restaurateurs -- Ashok Bajaj at Rasika, Julie Bazin at Bazin's on Church -- are paying attention to the problem and installing sound-proofing material to help mute the problem.

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Silver Spring, Md.: When will restaurants stop humiliating single diners? For example, in one very popular restaurant in White Flint mall, I was told that since I was dining alone, I could only sit in the bar, not in the restaurant, at lunch time. I could not even put my name on a waiting list for a table...

Tom Sietsema: You're kidding! That's outrageous. And sooooo blatantly discriminating.

I sympathize. I went to brunch by myself awhile back and the host greeted me with: "What, you couldn't find a date?"

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Crying babies: On Sunday, a few of us District residents headed out to an ethnic restaurant in Arlington, at around 6:30, way before our usual dinner time. One of my friends found it horrendous that a few babies and toddlers were making noises elsewhere in the restaurant, and wouldn't stop talking about how they should head back home. I finally told him to tough it up. We were not only invading these parents' territory, we were picking a time where families would be out for dinner. If he found it uncomfortable to dine during a regular dinner time in the suburb, then he should have stayed in the District. For those of us who don't have children, we need to be sensitive to others who do. Pick yer place, pick yer time.

Tom Sietsema: I imagine lots of parents' heads nodding in response to your thoughtful post.

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Arlington, Va.: Hi, Tom,

My wife and I recently celebrated our 36th anniversary by staying two nights at The Inn at Easton. The first night we had the Chef's Tasting Menu and we ordered off the menu the second night. We couldn't have been happier. We expected the food to be phenomenal and we weren't disappointed. My wife is from south Louisiana and knows a thing or two about great seafood. She said the soft shell crabs were clearly the best she'd ever had.

Just as important as the food was the quality of service. It's obvious that Chef Evans is as gifted in choosing and training his staff as he is in his cooking. I highly recommend The Inn at Easton as a "go to" place for any special event. We'll be going back (and no, I'm not his publicist!).

Tom Sietsema: Count me a fan, too -- along with the big guy from Brand X.

washingtonpost.com: Review of the Inn at Easton .

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Washington, D.C.: Re Daily Dish comment: "Gazpacho is such a frequent sight this season, we're surprised not to find it being dished up at McDonald's"

When I lived in Madrid a few years back, McDonald's did indeed serve gazpacho in little "milk cartons," and it was quite tasty.

Tom Sietsema: LOL

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Washington, D.C.: Good morning, Tom. Will you be printing a similar "rants" column from the restaurant staff side, like you did from a diner's point of view? As a server, I enjoyed that piece ("Oh-My-God! Not cologne! Anything but COLOGNE!") and wondered if you'd do the same for the other half...

Tom Sietsema: Bring it on!

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Bethesda, Md.: We recently moved into the Glen Echo area. Have you been to the restaurant Pralines - located off Sagamore Rd. and if so, what was your opinion?

Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Fresh from the archives!

washingtonpost.com: Review of Praline Bakery .

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Multiple Courses: Dear Tom,

It's epidemic - restaurants lately have been giving us our appetizers, salads, and entrees all at once, even when we specifically tell them at the outset that we want them spaced properly. And no one seems to care! The waiters just shrug, the hostesses just smile, and the managers just say that's the way it is in the kitchen sometimes. We eat everywhere from low end to high end, at a variety of restaurants, but it seems to be epidemic. What can we do? If we stopped going to restaurants that did this, we'd have nowhere else to eat!

Tom Sietsema: Name names. These aren't tapas places, are they?

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Washington, D.C.: Tom, During restaurant week, I had occasion to dine at The Oval Room for lunch. I had an awful experience with whom I believe to be the manager. He walked away from us as soon as we walked through the door, and never returned, they didn't have a table for us yet(party of 3). A woman, hostess? came over and apologized, informed us it would be a few minutes, in this case who should I direct my negative comment to?

Tom Sietsema: That doesn't sound like the Oval Room I know, but you should have asked the hostess who you could talk to about your problem ("Who is the manager's manager?").

I agree, though: the service there needs more polish. Stay tuned for my Sept. 10 review of the downtown restaurant, which recently hired a new chef.

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NW Washington, D.C.: Tom, I feel the need to defend Butterfield 9 a bit (someone said they didn't like its Restaurant Week showing). My husband and I went for dinner during their extended restaurant week (which I think is a great idea and more places should do it), and really enjoyed it (I had the rockfish, and my husband had the steak). I'm also not one who cares much about decor, but I really love their space with its different levels. The service was great, and the wine pairing was a steal at $19/person, since we got two full glasses of wine plus a dessert wine. The only complaint I had was that the amuse-bouche (potato vichyssoise) was too thick to drink from the deep cups we got, and we weren't given spoons.

I also did a business lunch in their semi-private room recently, and it was very successful, so I've got another one scheduled in a couple of weeks. I think you should put this place back on your radar screen.

Tom Sietsema: Butterfield 9 thanks you! (Seriously, I appreciate the feedback.)

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Bethesda, Md.: Tom,

Another dining suggestion for your Seattle-bound reader:

94 Stewart Street (Stewart Street and First Avenue): Modern American emphasizing foodstuffs from Washington State. Outstanding wines and (a rarity) a cheese steward. Run by a family team: mom is the chef; daughter is the wine steward; son is the cheese steward. Innovative cuisine and caring service. (I was a solo diner and was treated attentively.)

Not a publicist, just a satisfied patron from the East Coast Washington.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the tip! (I'll be in Seattle next week.)

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Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: Tom, where can I find a good patisserie? I'm talking about a place with a case filled with so many beautiful pastries I can't decide! You know, just like in Paris....

I went to Patisserie Poupon with high hopes, and I was disappointed to find a few tired looking croissants and turnovers. DC is preferred, but close-in suburbs are OK too. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: While I'm reluctant to recommend the place, because its service was dreadful when I reviewed it, Leopold's Kafe & Konditorei in Georgetown has the beautiful pastry case you're looking for.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Hi Tom,

A note on the new Ray's: The staff NEEDS some sensitivity training! They NEED to realize that, in an urban area, not everyone who goes to a steak-house is going to be a dedicated carnivore. Not everyone is going to want to hear: "And, this is our 'shmultz' appetizer made completely of animal fat!" And, not everyone is going to want to hear exactly what part of the cow each steak came from... Also, they need more than one chicken entree (fried and smuthered); and more than one veggie option(Thanks, so much for the two pieces of limp eggplant, though!). I really did used to be able to get into the occasional steak (okay, fillet mignon). Ray's has converted me to a non-red-meat-eater...

Tom Sietsema: I have yet to try Ray's The Classics, but I rather LIKE knowing what a dish is made of (even if it's not so good for me)and where my steak is coming from (even if the server points to her own body to illustrate). Indeed, the more information, the better! Informed consumers make better food choices, right?

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Sushi on the Hill: Tom, I realize there's only so much you can do, but....

We need sushi on the Hill! Our restaurant selection has improved vastly in the six years I've lived here, but we still have no sushi (OK, there's the mediocre Kyoto Sushi on Mass and 2nd NE, but it's pretty bleak). Can you get this message out to the sushi chefs who might be interested in additional locations? The last time I ate at Kaz Sushi Bistro I asked Kaz to open a location, and he was as polite as ever, but I don't think he believed me.

I think there's an impression that the Hill is only Congressional members/staff, and that it's deserted when they're not in session. There are 70,000+ residents of the 20002 and 20003 zip codes, and we live here year round.

I'm really, really looking forward to Johnny's Half Shell opening. Can't wait!

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: You hear that, Kaz? Got that, Koji (as in Terano, the head chef at Sushi-Ko)? The Hill wants you or your similarly talented chums to open a sushi restaurant!

Maybe Ann Cashion can be persuaded to do a sashimi plate at the soon-to-sail Johnny's Half Shell. The chef plans to do tacos from a carryout window, after all ...

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Arlington, Va.: First, Tom, thanks for taking the time to do these chats. I live vicariously through your reviews and chats!

I have a close vegetarian friend turning 30 soon, and would love to take her to dinner at a place with more than one veggie option. I noticed that you haven't reviewed Vegetate - is it not worth the trip? And if not, any suggestions? Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: I'm not certain what the status of Vegetate is these days. I liked the interior and the mission statement, but I didn't much care for the execution when I last visited -- months ago, I should point out.

Rasika counts multiple meatless options, and there's no hipper Indian restaurant around. Outside Washington, I think the pretty Bamian in Falls Church does a good job with its Afghan flavors, some of which are vegetarian.

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Drinks before dinner?: Hi Tom,

We (a party of 7) have Saturday dinner reservations at Viridian. Could you recommend a few places nearby for pre-dinner drinks? A place where we could sit down as opposed standing at a bar would be ideal (but not essential).

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Funny, if you weren't already booked for dinner there, I'd suggest Viridian for drinks. I dropped by recently for cocktails and snacks with friends, and we had a blast. Good service, cool crowd, nice nibbles.

You say there are seven of you and you all want to sit for drinks? On a Saturday night? In busy Logan Circle? (What, you don't want a view of the water, too?) That's a tall order. But nearby, you should consider Merkado on P St. or maybe Rice on 14th.

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Washington, D.C.: Hello Tom! I have a "what would you have done" question today. My husband and I were out at a nice, somewhat hip restaurant this past weekend. It's one of those industrial-looking places where the ceiling hasn't been "done," but it has been painted to look cool. (you get the idea.) In this place, the finished part of the walls don't go all the way up to the ceiling -- creating a ledge about 6 inches down. Well, we were seated at the bar when I noticed a large mouse (I think it was too small to be a rat) scurry across the ledge in the direction of the door. I said something to my husband and he told me not to worry -- that we were in a city and he was sure the food was OK. I kept my mouth closed, but now I'm wondering whether I should have said something.

Tom Sietsema: I think I would have looked around for a seat AWAY from the "open" and "unfinished" ceiling myself, but a word with one of the managers certainly couldn't hurt. He or she might not be aware of the critter problem.

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Alexandria, Va.: So, go figure. Like pretty much everybody else, I have an eternal search on for a great slice. When I can spare an hour before catching the shuttle in New York, I go to the nearest John's Pizzeria. In town, I debate the merits of a margarita at Two Amys versus a parma-ham version at Paradiso versus a stinky cheese and caramelized onion with pancetta pizza at Ella's. Everybody's got an opinion, I know. But last night I had to entertain my two kids plus their 11-year-old visiting cousin, so I took them to Generous George's with all of the enthusiasm of going to McDonald's. They offer "make your own" kids' pizzas, and the 11-year-old wants nothing but "olive oil and onions." So they give her the oil from their oil-and-vinegar set, she pours it all on, throws on the cheap mozzarella and onions, then cakes on some parmesan and shaken oregano. The thing comes back, and voila, the best white pizza I've ever eaten. I know many consider this heretical, but that little kiddy's pizza was delicious (gussied up with some pepper flakes, of course, and downed with a schooner of beer.) Which raises the question ... Any unexpected treats you've found lately in unambitious, otherwise boring, restaurants?

Tom Sietsema: Good food in an otherwise boring restaurant? I can't say I've encountered much of that recently, in part because I'm eating my way around the city for the fall dining guide (Oct. 15) and I'm seeing more to applaud than to criticize.

Let me amend that: some once-shining restaurants have lost their luster, but I'm greatly encouraged by much of what I see on the dining scene right now. For this most part, this is a very exciting time to be eating in Washington.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Tom,

I consider myself pretty well dined in the dc are restaurant circle, except for one area: brunch. What are some of the best places to get brunch? I'm open to anything, but looking for something with fairly traditional offerings without a stuffy atmosphere. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: One place I enjoy waking up to is Colorado Kitchen. The donuts alone are worth any wait you might face. And both Firefly and Tabard Inn make fine morning meals, too.

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Arlington, Va.: Tom, we're trying Citronelle for the first time for our first wedding anniversary. Aside from the usual (tell the manager if there's a problem, ask for what you want), any other advice? I'm thinking along the lines of romantic table requests, should we check to see if Michel Richard will be there, etc. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: The seats near the kitchen window are best. And remind your server not to be in such a rush to drop off the farewell sweets: they should come AFTER dessert, not alongside dessert.

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Breakfast Buffet: Any of our local Ritz-Carltons do a fabulous buffet breakfast any day of the week.

Tom Sietsema: Really? A full weekday buffet?

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Neil Eatstrong, Space: Re: Shuttle Food: I remember the last time at dined at Apollo. The food was decent...although the restaurant doesn't offer utensils. It's all finger food. Drinks were okay, but the necessity of using a straw seemed childish. As far as deserts go, there 'signature' space ice cream was too dry.

Tom Sietsema: Am I wrong to assume that my colleague, the prankster Gene Weingarten, is lurking here today?

Over and out from mission control, fellow diners. Have a four-star week. I'll see you next Wednesday.

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