What's Cooking With Kim O'Donnel

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Kim O'Donnel
Special to washingtonpost.com
Tuesday, September 5, 2006; 12:00 PM

Calling all foodies! Join us for another edition of What's Cooking , our live online culinary hour with Kim O'Donnel.

A graduate of Peter Kump's New York Cooking School, Kim spends much of her time in front of the stove or with her nose in a cookbook.

Catch up on previous transcripts with the What's Cooking archive page .

Kim was online Tuesday, Sept. 5, at Noon ET.

The transcript follows .

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Kim O'Donnel: Hello on this very dreary, soggy day in Washington! I am back from my travels in the Pacific Northwest. I really can't believe we're nearly done with summer. To that end, my blog, which is now going to be a year-round thing, needs a new name. I can't promise you a prize, but I'm working on some kind of goodie for a new blog name. Got any thoughts? Send'em over. School back in session for anyone in your camp? Let's talk about it, or anything else kitchen-esque on your mind...

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Washington, D.C.: Kim -- I'm dating someone who keeps kosher and can't eat dairy and meat at the same time. Is there a decent substitute for butter (I think I know the answer)? If not, how much difference does it make if I don't finish a sauce with butter, or don't use butter under the skin when roasting a chicken? Will olive oil do the trick on the chicken? Thanks.

Kim O'Donnel: Roast chicken does beautifully with a lathering up of olive oil. More importantly, you need to season well with salt and pepper, inside and out. As for sauces, it really depends. Classic French stuff uses a lot of butter, but I think you'll be okay doing without.

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Takoma Park, Md.: Hi Kim -- I wrote in last week asking about using lower-fat milk in the corn chowder recipe. You suggested experimenting (which is, of course, more fun than following a recipe!). You also suggested processing half of the chowder to make it thicker -- I didn't do that, because I wanted to hoard all of the crunchy goodness. I used a little flour to thicken, which worked fine, but the chowder was still missing some richness. My fiance suggested added some canned mussels and crab, which did the trick nicely. Although I guess it wasn't corn chowder anymore.

Kim O'Donnel: Actually...I think the most effective way to add richness to a corn chowder is to make a stock from a corn cob...and to cook soup with corn cob...natural starches release and add body without fat. Next time, you can make a roux (equal parts flour and butter)...cook that in pot, then add a smidgen of your stock, to begin melting it and prevent flour from seizing, then add it to rest of soup pot...that will help.

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Charlotte, N.C.: I'm looking for a good crab cake recipe -- preferably without a lot of mayonnaise. Any suggestions on something very simple to whip up? Thanks so much!

Kim O'Donnel: Hey Charlotte, I like to make my crab cakes with plain yogurt, as I'm not exactly a fan of mayo. Have a look at the how-to video/recipe I did a few years ago on the very subject. Cheers.

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Baltimore, Md.: Hi, it has been my long time dream to just make a good food -- simple but good, something I can invite friends over for, but I have never been successful -- following recipe from a cook book never works for me, do you know where I can take a short cooking course in the Baltimore area? I'm new to Baltimore. Thanks

Kim O'Donnel: I'm not as familiar with courses in Balto, but let's ask these very knowledgeable group -- cooking courses in Baltimore area, anyone??

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim! Looking for some new, fun and healthy ideas for packing lunch for my second-grader. He is likely to get sick of the standard ham sandwich or PBJ pretty quickly. Any ideas?

Kim O'Donnel: What about a hunk of cheese, an apple and some almonds? If he craves bread, maybe using different kinds -- one day it could be wheat, another day an English muffin, another day pita. Have you guys ever ventured into the world of hummus? Such a great portable snack. You could stuff into a pita or send him off with cut up carrots and other fave veggie sticks...

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Eating Borsht, Arlington, Va.: I believe it was your last chat in which the topic of beets came up (and your lack of fondness for the lovely hued root veggies). Just wanted to let you and the other beet-discussers know that I've craved beets ever since, and am finally indulging my craving -- yum. Thanks for the inspiration, even if you're not a fan!

Kim O'Donnel: It's really funny; ever since last Tuesday's chat, I have heard from so many who have had similar experiences to yours. I am delighted that you're getting busy with beets, and this is the place to share beet love and more. Cheers.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim!

I tried making chicken stock this past rainy Saturday. I took 1/2 chicken (skin and all), 4 carrots, roughly chopped, 3 celery leaves, a few mushrooms, and enough water to barely cover. I simmered it quickly, skimmed foam, and then let it simmer more slowly for two hours. After all that effort, I got only 3 1/3 cups stock. Seems like a lot of work for little return.

Do you have any ideas of how to increase my yield next time?

Thanks a lot!

Kim O'Donnel: Next time, I would make stock without the chicken meat or skin. Use the back and neck bones; these are the marrow-rich areas of the bird and end results will be more flavorful. Also, leave out mushrooms until you're ready to make soup. Stock is a base. The carrots, celery, all good. Try adding some onion product and garlic, if you like. If you want more yield, add more bones. Remember, barely cover your bones with liquid.

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Corn chowder: My family (New England) has made corn chowder for years. We use skim milk, fat-free condensed milk for the liquids but the kicker is one can of regular corn (drained) and a can of creamed corn. Don't forget the onion, potatoes, butter and bacon and you are set!

Kim O'Donnel: A corn-y idea for our chowderhead...thanks!

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Second-grader suggestions: If he's adventurous, there are all sorts of ways to gussy up a ham sandwich. Lots of different mustards, for example. Or use a sweet chutney or relish for contrast.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes indeed. Also, it's always more interesting when the kid gets to make his own lunch, even if only once a week. By the way, out of curiosity, if you knew of an after-school cooking program for your kid, would that be of interest? It's an idea stewing in my noggin...

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Accokeek, Md.: Corn Chowder flavor booster. Instead of chicken stock, drain the liquid from canned corn and use it instead. A real corn-flavor booster. Canned corn is used later in chili or mixed in with corn bread.

Kim O'Donnel: More chowder flavor zingers...

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School-lunch ideas: How about some wraps? The tortillas come in some awesome colors now -- red, green, yellow. Of course the trick is getting them to stay together.

Kim O'Donnel: Yeah, anything that looks novel -- and remains healthy. The simpler, the better too, in my book. Don't forget -- there are other nut butters out on the market, now, and soynut butter is a great alternative.

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Name for blog: Savoring Life

Kim O'Donnel: I'm adding this to my list. Thanks!

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Kim, hope you are staying dry today! I'm roasting a chicken today after work to practice for an upcoming dinner and wondered if you have any tips on how to roast a great chicken! I'm planning to go light on seasoning (just seasoned salt and paprika) and to roast at 375 or so for most of the time until bumping the temp up to 450 at the end. Thanks for any help you can provide!

Kim O'Donnel: I guess today is a roast chicken kind of day...as I mentioned earlier in the hour, salt and pepper bird inside and out. Actually, I would start high, at 425, for about 20 minutes, then reduce. Sprigs of herbs are nice in the cavity if you like. Legs in first, so they'll cook in back of oven where it's warmer...

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Stock: I bake an entire chicken for 40 minutes and strip the meat off. Meanwhile, I deglaze the Dutch oven, then throw the carcass back in with water and do the stock. I get quarts and quarts from that.

Kim O'Donnel: Nice. Thanks for chiming in. But what do you do about meat that's not completely cooked?

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim,

I am a recent grad living in the D.C. area on a nonprofit salary, so I have little time or money to spend on meal preparation. I need some advice on where to find recipes that need only a few ingredients, are nutritious and take little to no time to prepare. I've had enough sausage, peppers and onions dishes to last me a lifetime!

A quick and easy curry recipe would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Here are details for a killer chicken curry . I would also recommend a whole roast chicken, as it lasts into the middle of the week and you can do all kinds of things, from salads to sandwiches...use bones for soup, etc.

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Crystal City, Va.: I was thinking about making tilapia for dinner tonight, but the dreary weather is bringing me down. The plan was to dredge tilapia fillets in some seasoned flour, saute in olive oil, then add cut up ripe tomatoes and garlic, maybe add some squash (zucchini and summer squash). Last time, I added asparagus. Deglaze with white wine, serve over pasta (farfalle). Hoping it'll be good this time too. Otherwise, will make a quiche with salad and maybe French bread.

Kim O'Donnel: Hey Crystal, your plan sounds good, even if you don't bother with the pasta. Don't let the weather get you down; it's all temporary, and a hot meal is just what the doc ordered.

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Statesville, N.C.: Hi there! Thanks for your great food chats! I stumbled upon some lemongrass at the store this weekend. It's rare that I see it, so I just picked some up with nothing in mind for how I was going to use it. Are there any recipes out there matching lemongrass with salmon? I have a lovely fillet of salmon that needs to be cooked this evening. Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Hey N.C., I like your adventurous spirit. Lemongrass is tough and fibrous on the outside, so make sure you slice off the tough, grass-like tops, the root, and then peel away the dry layers. You'll have about five inches of inner stalk left. Begin by slicing, then dice really fine. You could mix with chopped fresh ginger, garlic and chilies, saute in oil, then add about four ounces of coconut milk, to make a sauce. Add basil at end. Pour over cooked salmon.

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Columbia, Md.: "Corn chowder: My family (New England) has made corn chowder for years. We use skim milk, fat-free condensed milk for the liquids but the kicker is one can of regular corn (drained) and a can of creamed corn." Did she/he really mean "condensed milk"? That chowder sounds like dessert to me!

Kim O'Donnel: Let's ask...

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Learning to cook: I too am looking for a cooking class in D.C.. However, the best advice I ever got about cooking came from my mother, a south Indian with a very good reputation as a cook (friends of the family always start a conversation by talking about her food), and the European-American Southern "Grandma" who helped raise us and instill a love of all things Southern. They both had recipes, but they also both advised just doing it and paying attention. They would always tell me to read a recipe once, then put it away and do what you think is right. That along with their admonition not be afraid of the kitchen were the best pieces of advice I've ever gotten.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for your comments. Even with a cooking class under your belt, the lessons learned from your family will be the ones that ultimately resonate. Class is good for some basics, like knife skills and time management/organization, but the passion passed down to you from your mother and grandmother is priceless.

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Maryland: More blog title ideas:

Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of Food

For the Love of Food

Foodies, Unite!

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks. Keep'em coming!

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McLean, Va.: Hi Kim! Please don't stop the blog when summer ends! I love all the recipes and tips, and I would especially enjoy seeing them during the fall and winter months when so many of the fruits and veggies I usually use are out of season.

Also, a question. How long is homemade ice cream good for? Thank you!

Kim O'Donnel: Have no fear; the blog will live on, but as I mentioned earlier, I need a new name to reflect a year-round theme. Re: housemade ice cream: if you make it with eggs, it will last longer, probably for about a week. Egg-less ice cream will last more like three days.

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Blog-name idea: How about:

What's in the Pot?

Kim O'Donnel: Ha Ha! Like it.

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Blog: Cooking Luv!

Kim O'Donnel: More goodies...

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D.C.: Have you ever made cream puffs? I guess they are a big deal now on the West Coast with the Papa Beard (Beard Papa?) chain and I'd like to try making them but I don't want the filling to be tooth-achingly sweet. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: I have made cream puffs, but it's been ages. The dough you want to make is called "pate a choux" -- it's egg-based and not as difficult as you might think. Let me dig up my recipe for you this week.

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School lunches: Other things that have been hit with my kids: cereal to munch out of a baggie with some fruit; freezing the yogurt that comes in tubes; pretzels and an apple; cheese and crackers; pasta salad; cold pizza.

They don't like to take bananas because they get too bruised.

Kim O'Donnel: All good ideas, and big high-five to you for no processed stuff. Nice going.

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Alexandria, Va..: What can I do with zucchini besides roast it? I'm getting a little tired of roasted half moons with different spice combinations. I saw a recipe somewhere with the zucchini cut into thin strips, almost like a wide spaghetti, but can't recall where I saw it or how it was prepared. Thanks much.

Kim O'Donnel: Yep, you can make zucchini "spaghetti" with a mandoline slicer, but you can also shred it and mix it with pasta, season with herbs, cherry tomatoes. Have you roasted with an onion and garlic, then puree it for a fab zuke-a-mole dip? It's a fun twist on guacamole.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim, Just got a brand spanking new blue Le Creuset Dutch oven. It is a thing of beauty. I made a stew from Cooking Light and it was delish, though I had trouble browning the chicken -- it seemed like the pot was too crowded or the heat wasn't high enough. But it was my first time so I get a pass.

Do you have any ideas for things I can try that will justify my investment? Something that can't be done right unless it's in a Dutch oven. Something "wow." Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Those pots are indeed beauteous. Congratulations. You will have it forever. Brown chicken in batches if space gets cramped next time. Curry is what you need to do! Check out the link earlier in the hour for a kick-in-the-pants chicken curry that always takes the edge off of a dreary day.

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Reston, Va.: This blog can be a bit over-the-top, but it's got some great lunchbox ideas: Vegan Lunch Box

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks, Reston. I'll be putting together some school lunch ideas in coming days for the blog. Stay tuned.

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Arlington, Va.: If I don't have (fresh) cilantro on hand, can I substitute (dried) coriander? If so, how much? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Yeah, she says reluctantly. Dried spices are a crapshoot. Depends on how old they are. Sometimes they taste like sawdust and can ruin a dish. Taste before adding. If it's okay, use smaller amount, by half, than the fresh. Flavor can be intense.

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Condensed milk: I'm not the original poster, but look in the baking section of your supermarket. There are brands of condensed skim milk without sugar added. I use it in chowders and gravies. It makes things richer without the fat of cream.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, condensed milk without sugar is called evaporated milk. I use it all the time for coffee.

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New England Chowderhead: Big duh -- I meant fat-free evaporated milk -- sorry about that.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for confirming!

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Washington, D.C.: How about Savoring the Seasons for the new blog name?

Kim O'Donnel: How about it? I like it -- A LOT.

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Fennel?: Kim, I'm harvesting a fennel bulb or two shortly. What can I do with the bounteous foliage, other than putting it into packets with grilled or steamed fish?

Kim O'Donnel: Fennel is great thinly sliced as part of a salad, with red onion, herbs and some citrus. Watermelon loves fennel, too.

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Dutch Oven: Rolled, roasted pork loin.

And if you're up to a four-hour adventure, CASSOULET!

Kim O'Donnel: Ooh baby. This weather is bringing on lots of stew-pot ideas...

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Alexandria, Va.: Since you have just returned from the Seattle area, I am wondering if you have a quick and easy method for cooking salmon on a gas grill? Is there a special way of boiling potatoes in the Pacific Northwest?

Kim O'Donnel: The best way to boil potatoes is with salted water, no matter where you live, my dear. I think I mentioned last week that a group of us grilled salmon on a cedar plank on a gas grill. It's one of the easiest ways to cook salmon, by the way. Ever use a plank?

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Silver Spring, Md.: I am planning to roast some Yukon gold potatoes, beets and carrots this evening. Is it possible to prepeel and slice the things now and then bake 5 hours from now? Will the root veggies oxidize or change color? Do I need to soak them? Is it better to just to prep right before cooking?

Thanks!!!

Kim O'Donnel: Potatoes will definitely change color. You could soak them in water until dinner time, but if you're not preparing tons of food, I would wait if it all possible.

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Blog name: GET IN MY BELLY!

Kim O'Donnel: Wow! The ideas overfloweth...

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Southern Maryland: Is it possible to make a dessert in a slow cooker (specifically, a chocolate dessert)? I'd love to come home from the office and smell something deliciously sweet wafting through the air.

Got any recipes for me to try?

Kim O'Donnel: I have no idea. I am thinking no. Anyone care to chime in?

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Fennel again: I know what to do with the root -- it's the stems I'm wondering about. Can I really eat those directly, or are they just for transferring aroma and flavor to something else?

Kim O'Donnel: Ah. Okay. I find they are best as flavorizers, but you may feel otherwise. The fronds will be grassy. You could saute them in butter.

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Zucchini: I love to bake mine. I roll it in olive oil and garlic, top with a combo of panko (Japanese bread crumbs) and parmesan cheese and either throw on the grill or bake with the last few seconds under broiler.

Kim O'Donnel: Nice. There are many ways to zuke the zuke.

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Zucchini: To the person looking for different ways to prepare zucchini, I saute it with olive oil, garlic and red pepper flakes, and then throw in bacon pieces at the end. Gives them good flavor. You can use bacon pieces in a jar (similar to bacon bits, but the real thing).

Kim O'Donnel: Everything's better with bacon, but my cholesterol level doesn't like it. Cheers.

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Alexandria, Va.: America's Test Kitchen has a fabo recipe for doing chicken roasted on high heat in a broiler pan over potatoes (so the potatoes catch the drippings). They show you how to butterfly it and everything.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, that's one thing I didn't mention. Cutting a chicken down its back and butterflying it is a terrific way to roast it. Takes a lot less time, too.

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Kim O'Donnel: Time to go already. Thanks for the wonderful ideas on all fronts, particularly with the blog names! I've got a nice list to work from. Type to you next week, and in the meantime, all blog all the time. Enjoy these last few weeks of summer! All best.

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