Free Range on Food

A chat with the Food section staff is a chance for you to ask questions, offer suggestions and share information with other cooks and food lovers. It is a forum for discussion of food trends, ingredients, menus, gadgets and anything else food-related.

Each chat, we will focus on topics from the day's Food section . You can also read the transcripts of past chats . Do you have a question about a particular recipe or a food-related anecdote to share? The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET. Read about the staff of the Food section .

The transcript follows.

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Walter: Yes folks, It's time once again for Free Range from the Food section. We're ready to take Sweet and Salty questions or share your comments on the Apple season upon us--two topics from today's issue. For give-aways for two great questions we have Tomatoes & Mozzarella by Hallie Harron and Shelley Sikora and we have Lemongrass and Sweet Basil by Khamtane Signavong. We'll award them at the end of the chat.

Let's start.

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Ashburton, Va. : The story about sweet and salty was very interesting. Isn't this the same concept behind why we add salt to baked goods? Or does Candy Sagon mean adding even more salt? And does she have a recipe for salted oatmeal cookies? They sound delicious.

Bonnie: A small amount of salt does enhance the sweetness in baked goods, but Candy Sagon was talking about salt of a much higher profile -- so that it's the next taste that hits your tongue after the sweet in those trendy new snacks.

Candy suggests trying your favorite oatmeal cookie recipe and before you bake, sprinkle the cookie dough pods with very pure, very coarse crystals of mild sea salt on top.

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Non Sweet Teeth: At the Eastern Market on Sunday my husband and I ate an apple sample, agreed that it was very tasty, and then bought six apples. They are Honey Crisp apples from West Virginia. As a snack they are a wonderful mix of sweet and tart. Thank you for the apple dessert recipes in today's Food Section. What is the least amount of sugar that can be used in an apple cake recipe calling for 1 1/2 cups Granny Smith peeled apple cubes, 1 1/2 cups flour, 1/2 cup cooking oil (I used Enova) 1 egg, 1/2 cup chopped pecans, 1/2 cup coconut, 1/2 tsp. salt, 1 tsp. baking soda and 1 tsp. vanilla? Neither my husband nor I have a sweet tooth. Even though this recipe contains 1 cup sugar (as compared to 2 in similar recipes) the apple cake was still borderline for sweetness. Can sugar be eliminated entirely in a recipe such as this? If I could substitute honey or use some sugar and some honey, how much should I use?

Bonnie: I sampled those honeycrisp at Eastern Market last Saturday, along with some wonderful Asian pears.

I'm not sure it would make your recipe less sweet, but I think you could use 1/2 cup sugar and 1/2 cup honey instead of the full cup of sugar. If you use the honey, normally you'd have to cut back on the amount of liquid in the recipe. But I guess using 1/4 cup fewer apple cubes might do the trick here. Keep in mind that the honey might cause this cake to brown faster, too.

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Bonnie: Hey, for an upcoming article, we'd like to hear from some of our Washington area chatters who indulge in weekend cooking. We know you're out there! Send an e-mail to food@washpost.com.

Bonnie: And by weekend cooking, we mean the kind that you find rewarding, creative and recreational -- not necessarily the quick, multipurpose cooking we do to set up meals for the week ahead. But if you manage to combine those options, all the more reason we want to hear about it.

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Bethesda, Md.: Help, please. I've lost the recipe for Summer Corn Chowder that appeared in the August 30 WP. Please reprint for me. I got all ready to make the chowder, but can't find the recipe.

Jane: Here it is. Don't omit the step of steeping the cobs in the milk....it really does give a nice, corny flavor! This chowder is thin, so you will probably want to use the suggested option of processing some of it in the blender.

Vegetarian Corn Chowder

2 to 3 main-course servings

If you prefer a thicker chowder, transfer half the finished soup to a blender and process until it's chunky smooth.

4 cups whole milk

7 ears corn

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large yellow onion (about 1 1/4 cups), diced

1 1/2 cups (about 1 large potato or 2 small) 1/4-inch diced russet potatoes

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

4 cloves garlic, minced

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

In a large pot over medium-low heat, heat the milk until bubbles just begin to break the surface.

Meanwhile, cut the corn kernels away, reserving the cobs. You should have 4 to 5 cups of kernels; set them aside.

When the milk is warm, add the corn cobs and cook for 10 minutes to flavor the milk.

While the cobs are cooking, heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, potatoes and thyme and cook for about 8 minutes, or until the potatoes are just tender and the onion is becoming translucent. Add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute. Remove the cobs from the milk and discard them. Add the potato-onion mixture to the milk and increase the heat to medium. Add the corn kernels and cook 15 minutes without allowing the mixture to boil. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving (based on 3): 488 calories, 17 g protein, 64 g carbohydrates, 21 g fat, 33 mg cholesterol, 7 g saturated fat, 233 mg sodium, 6 g dietary fiber

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Stadium pie: That's what my dearly beloved called the result of an apple pie I made Sunday. He loved it, but it sure did look funny. I am curious why it happened (and he wants me to do it again)!

After the pie was baked, the top crust stayed in place while the apples receded, creating a "dome."

I used a combination of Paula Red and Granny Smith apples, mixed my usual way, with my usual butter-and-shortening crust. In fact, I was rather pleased with how the crust turned out, as I have about 50-50 luck with getting them to roll nicely. Filled it quite full, and pulled the top crust over it smoothly but not overly tight. Baked normally, even bubbled and spilled a bit. Cooled on top of the stove. When I took it out, the apples were still up under the top crust. But a few hours later, they were absolutely flat level with the top edge of the pie plate, and the crust had stayed in place to become... well, a stadium dome....

How did I do this?

Thanks for any insights you can share.

Leigh: This is not an unusual (or undesirable) result. What happened is that your apples supplied an "armature" for your crust to bake around but as they cooled and settled they shrank back leaving your crust to form a hollow dome. I say good for you, as this makes a lovely and impressive appearance. What's more, once you slice it up and serve it with a scoop of ice cream, who's to know?

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Madison, Wisc.: Hi, and thanks in advance for taking my question.

I'm wondering if those new fiber additives, the ones you can supposedly add to any dish with no additional taste or texture, will have the same effect natural fiber does on one's body, especially in terms of feeling full.

Thank you!

Bonnie: Haven't tried them, and we'll refer your query to our colleague Sally Squires, CEO of the Lean Plate Club.

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Cake: Hi Foodies,

Posting early because I'll be in a meeting.

My son's first birthday is coming up and I saw a really cute idea in a magazine. It layers 2 sheet cakes, and cuts them into cubes to be iced as baby blocks. Problem is while I'm a great cook, I'm a terrible baker.

Do you know if I could buy just plain skeet cakes at cake stores? Any ideas from where?

Thanks!

Bonnie: The bakery departments in Harris Teeter stores and some Giant Food stores will sell you unfrosted sheet cakes. You'll need to call ahead and deal with bakery managers there.

We're checking with Creative Cakes in Silver Spring, too.

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Bonnie: Note to CAKE -- Creative Cakes says no, they don't do unfrosted sheet cakes.

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Boston, Mass.: What's that china pattern shown in the photo accompanying Stephanie Sedgewick's article today? It's stunning.

Walter: Ms. Sedgwick's wedding pattern is called Kabuki, made by Hutschenreuther of Germany.

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Washington, D.C.: I love apples. I refuse to eat them out of season because they're too good when they're at their best.

Anyway, I thought I'd point out an awesome-looking salad in Bon Appetit this month - an apple, manchego and almond salad. I'll be trying it this week.

And also, for sweet-n-salty, I have two words: Kettle Corn!

Walter: We're hunting for the Bon Appetit and will take a look. Thanks for the tip.

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Reston, Va.: Hi, Can we eat BERRYs (Rasberrys, Strawberries etc) straight out of the box or should we wash them.

Thanks

Walter: Give them a gentle rinse just before serving.

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Rusty bakeware...: Hi-

I helped a friend bake for an event, and some of her bakeware is rusty. I declined to use it, she replied that it "just adds a little iron." Do rust spots on metal pans make a difference in baking, and does it indeed "just add a little iron" to whatever is cooked in them?

Inquiring minds would like to know your thoughts on this matter.

Leigh: I would say regardless of the "added iron", it is the taste you would be more concerned with. If you are stuck using rusty bake ware, line it with foil. This will make for easy removal and clean-up with no trace elements.

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Capitol Hill, Washington, D.C.: Totally unrelated to today's topics- can you help me find a tried-and-true molasses cookie recipe? A colleague of mine is addicted and I want to surprise her with a batch and a good recipe. Thanks to staff and peanut gallery in advance for any tips or recipes!

Leigh: These ran in the paper a few months ago. They are my favorite.

Ginger Spice Cookies

1&1/2 cups sugar

2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

3/4 cup vegetable shortening, at room temperature

1 egg

1/4 cup molasses

Preheat the oven to 375 . Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Place 1/2 cup of the sugar in a small bowl for rolling the balls of dough.

In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, cloves, ginger and salt and whisk until no streaks appear. Set aside.

Using a hand-held or stand mixer on medium-high speed, combine the shortening and the remaining cup of the sugar, mixing until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Add the egg and molasses, incorporating to combine. Reduce the speed to low and gradually add the dry ingredients, mixing until a dough is formed. Using your hands, shape the dough into golf-ball size portions (about 2 Tablespoons).

Roll the balls in the sugar and place half of them 2 inches apart on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 12 minutes. (The tops will be cracked; the insides should appear to be a bit underdone.) Repeat with remaining dough. Let cookies sit on the baking sheet for 5 minutes before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely. Makes 18 large cookies.

Per cookie: 182 calories, 2g protein, 25g carbohydrates, 8g fat, 12mg cholesterol, 2g saturated fat, 11mg sodium, 0g dietary fiber

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Indianapolis, IN: Submitting early...I recently inherited some old cast iron pans that were in need of cleaning and reseasoning. I did both (scoured, oiled, baked per grandma's instructions), and used one of these pans last weekend to fry an egg. It cooked beautifully, but the egg tasted like well like the pan. Did I do something wrong? Is this just what happens when you use cast iron pans?

Jane: I called Lodge Manufacturing, which has made cast-iron cookware for more than 100 years, with your question. A spokeswoman there says no, that is *not* the way food cooked in cast-iron pans is supposed to taste. Her suggestion: Your seasoning oil might have been too thin in spots, allowing a metallic taste to come through. Try re-washing with soap and hot water and then re-seasoning, making sure a thin coat of oil covers the entire surface of the pan.

The Lodge Web site, www.lodgemfg.com, has information about how to season and care for cast-iron pans.

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Washington, D.C.: Hello and thanks for doing the chat. I was wondering if there was a way to find a recipe from the Washington Post's food section from almost 10 years ago. It was a couscous salad with an orange juice type vinaigrette. The couscous salad had radishes, slivered almonds, onions and raisins in it. It was so delicious. I lost my recipe many years ago and I have not been able to find it or a similar recipe. Thanks for any assistance!

Jane: Well, that was a tough one. I couldn't find exactly what you described, but this recipe, from 1995, comes awfully close. Maybe you were substituting radishes for the jicama? At any rate, give this one a try.

HILARY'S MOROCCAN SALAD (6 to 8 servings)

This can be made the day before serving.

1 1/2 cups couscous (10-ounce package)

1/2 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup diced carrots

3/4 cup snow peas, cut in thirds

1 sweet red bell pepper, seeded and diced

3/4 cup diced jicama

1/4 cup diced sweet onion

2 green onions, cut into 1/4-inch pieces

1/2 cup currants or raisins

1/2 cup slivered almonds, lightly toasted

FOR THE DRESSING:

1/2 cup light olive oil

3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

1/4 cup fresh orange juice

Finely grated zest from 1/2 lemon

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 cup finely chopped fresh parsley

1/2 teaspoon dried mint

Pour 1 1/4 cups boiling water over the couscous and salt, and let stand for 15 minutes. Blanch the carrots, snow peas and red pepper individually, until each is tender but still crisp. Plunge each into cold water to chill quickly and stop the cooking. Drain and add them to the couscous and stir in the jicama, sweet onion, green onion, currants or raisins, and almonds.

Whisk the dressing ingredients together, making sure to rub the mint between your fingers before adding. Stir everything together and chill before serving.

Per serving: 473 calories, 57 gm carbohydrates, 0 mg cholesterol, 292 mg sodium, 11 gm protein, 24 gm fat, 3 gm saturated fat

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Burke, Va.: Weekend cooking...

Love to do homemade lasagna and homemade Italian bread to accompany it. I can even make two smaller lasagnas at the same time, instead of just one large one, and then I have one to freeze and one to eat. Same goes for the bread actually, recipe is for two normal-size loaves; I split it into four smaller loaves, eat one, and freeze the rest.

Homemade pasta is fun on weekends too - great for a simple dish like fettuccine alfredo or the like where there is more focus on the pasta.

Roasts are an obvious choice as well I suppose. Whether the meat, I'm happy to do a roast on the weekend, carve the whole thing, and package the leftovers in single or double servings to freeze for later uses such as pastas, enchiladas, burritos, soups, protein to top salads, etc.

Bonnie: Good to know. Send us an email, Burke, with info so we can contact you. Other weekend cook chatters, follow suit.

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Pine Plains, NY: We have a thriving sage plant, very aromatic, that we should

use real soon. But what to do with sage?

Walter: Think pork and poultry, cheese dishes and sausage.

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Arlington, Va.: I'm planning my son's 1st birthday party. We are having all our friends and family and their children - a total of 75 people! At other parties we've been to there has been a huge spread of amazing food. I don't have the time to do all that cooking so I thought I would buy pizza and make a couple of side dishes. I haven't a clue what to make. It has to be vegetarian (eggs and cheese are ok) but nothing with seafood (I'm very allergic).

How much pizza should I buy? There will be about 50 adults and 25 kids. Do you think it's okay if I serve appetizers/finger food at the same time as the pizza - just put it all out when the guests arrive?

Bonnie: Sounds like your own version of a salad bar would be the way to go here, Arl. Big bowls of different greens, cut up colorful raw vegetables and a range of dressings. Go for a nice display.

Figure 3 pieces of thin-crust pizza per adult and 1 per (little?) kid, and the numbers will all work out. Logistically, maybe you wouldn't want to put out all that pizza at once. I know places like Ledo's can leave their portable pizza warming bags for large orders such as yours.

Appetizers would be a good option so that the 'za can come to the table as a hot entree. The salad/veggies could go out first. The following make-ahead recipe for a warm appetizer dip works with vegetables and crispy things too. And it'll make enough to serve your crowd:

Manchurian Dip

Makes 2 quarts

This finished dip looks a bit like barbecue sauce, but its texture is more substantial. Adapted from "Wife of the Chef: The True Story of a Restaurant and Romance" by Courtney Febbroriello (Clarkson Potter, 2003):

1 large carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 small green chili pepper, seeded and coarsely chopped

1 medium red onion, roughly chopped

2 large stalks celery, roughly chopped

1 large bunch cilantro, including stems

10 medium cloves garlic, peeled

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

2 cups ketchup

1/4 cup soy sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon chili powder (or 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper)

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

In a food processor, combine the carrot, chili pepper, onion, celery and cilantro. Add the garlic and pulse until blended.

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan on medium-high. Put the pureed vegetables in the pan and heat through, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the ketchup and soy sauce and cook for another 10 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low. When sauce starts to thicken, add the sugar, chili powder, salt and pepper to taste. May cover and refrigerate for up to one week.

Per 1-tablespoon serving: 13 calories, trace protein, 3 gm carbohydrates, trace fat, 0 mg cholesterol, trace saturated fat, 135 mg sodium, trace dietary fiber

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Gaithersburg, Md. : Sweet and salty is one of my favorite combos. I love the salted oatmeal cookies at Teaism. Any chance you have a recipe for making them?

Leigh: Those cookies are a special treat. I contacted Linda Neumann, the co-owner of Teaism, and unfortunately that recipe is licensed and not disclosed to outside bakers. She did say that they use the best ingredients they can; butter, flour, oats, raisins. She thinks this makes a noticeable difference.

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To Wok or Not to Wok...: Hi there,

I've been considering buying a wok over the last few weeks due to my increased interest in Asian cooking, but I would like to get your advice. Cooks Illustrated, which I turn to time and time again for their recipes and equipment ratings, does not recommend woks for the home cook, instead favoring large non-stick skillets over woks because of their increased surface area for searing. However, I'm also interested in owning a bamboo steamer, and if I'm not mistaken, a bamboo steamer works best when placed instead a wok.

So...is it worth the $30 to $50 to buy a wok (maybe a flat-bottomed one?) and a bamboo steamer to get better acquainted with Asian cooking, or should I stick with my handy 12-inch non-stick skillet for stir-fries and buy a steamer that fits into a saucepan? Would love to know people's thoughts on this one...thanks!

Walter: Let the wok talk begin: Opinions?

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Washington, D.C.: Hello, Fooders! I made the chipotle-rubbed turkey breast from the recent article, and I find myself with extra chipotles in adobo. How long can they be stored in a sealed plastic container in the fridge? Thanks!

Jane: And how did you like the turkey?

This isn't going to be a scientific answer, but I can tell you from personal experience that they last for months in the fridge. The sauce has lots of tomatoes and vinegar, and the chilis have been smoked, so that works in their favor. But if you want to be completely safe, just freeze them. I put one or two peppers in each compartment of an ice cube tray with some of the sauce, and when they're frozen, I pop 'em out and store in a freezer bag to use in future recipes.

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Bethesda, Md.: I have visited Fran's Chocolates in Seattle, and had those chocolates with the salt on top. They are out of this world good! Last time I was there they were handing out samples of those chocolates, I took two. Thank goodness that store is so far away!.

Bonnie: Love Fran's. Thank goodness they send us samples now and then. The online order form beckons, however...

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Freezing Pesto: Morning!

I had leftover pesto (store bought) after making a pizza. I put it in the ice cube tray and into the freezer. A few days later, the cubes were still not solidified enough to pop out of the tray. What to do?

Jane: Buy a new freezer!

Or it could be that the jarred pesto contains some preservatives that impair freezing, or a super-high amount of oil that's keeping it mushy. You might just have to dig your pesto cubes out with a knife. If you use that brand again, better line your ice cube trays with plastic wrap first.

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Maryland: I have had the same apple cake recipe for YEARS!!! I never had the honey glaze. I've dressed it up by sifting confectionary sugar over it. It is the EASIEST cake I have ever made and I stir it by hand. I have even use TANG when I didn't have orange juice. I have also jazzed it up with raisins and nuts.

If you are hosting a dinner, your home will smell wonderful. It also travels well for pot luck affairs.

Bonnie: Keep those endorsements coming.

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Washington, D.C.: I purchased 2 lbs of mushrooms on sale at my Safeway last weekend. I've been looking for a mushroom lasagne recipe, something creamy, maybe with a bechemel sauce, not to overblown with ingredients. Do you have any such recipe in your archives? Thanks!

Jane: Here's one that just happens to require 2 pounds of mushrooms. The original recipe, which we published in 1997, calls for a mix of mushroom varieties, but I'll bet using one type will work fine if that's what you have.

Here's the recipe, from a story headlined "Rethinking Lasagna" by Nancy McKeon and Stephanie Witt Sedgwick:

MUSHROOM AND SMOKED MOZZARELLA LASAGNA (8 servings)

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 ounces pancetta, diced

1 cup diced onion

2 pounds assorted mushrooms (button, cremini, portobello, oyster, shiitake), cut into 1/4-inch slices

1/2 cup dry white wine

Salt and pepper to taste

3 cups reduced-fat or regular milk

6 tablespoons ( 3/4 stick) unsalted butter

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

Freshly grated nutmeg to taste (optional)

1/2 pound smoked mozzarella, grated

1/2 pound mozzarella, grated

About 3/4 pound fresh, no-cook or cooked lasagna sheets

Heat a large saute pan (at least 12 inches across) over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil, pancetta and onions and cook, stirring, until the pancetta just starts to brown, about 4 minutes. Add the mushrooms (pan will be crowded at the start). Cook, stirring every 2 or 3 minutes, until the mushrooms have released their water. Add the white wine and raise heat to high. Cook, stirring, until almost all of the liquid has evaporated, about 8 minutes. Taste for salt and pepper as needed. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Heat the milk and set aside.

In a heavy 2- to 3-quart saucepan, melt the butter over moderate heat, then stir in the flour. Stirring continuously, cook over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes until the paste begins to thin out. Add the warm milk in a steady stream while whisking the mixture, to make a bechamel sauce. Add nutmeg (if using), salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and let simmer for about 10 minutes, stirring every few minutes. The sauce should coat the back of a spoon; if it is too thick, add a little more milk. Remove from the heat and cover the surface with plastic wrap until assembling the lasagna to keep a skin from forming.

In a separate bowl, combine the smoked and regular mozzarella.

To assemble the lasagna: Using a 9-by-13-inch pan, spoon a few tablespoons of the bechamel sauce over the bottom. Cover it with a single layer of lasagna sheets. Spread on 1/2 the mushroom mixture, then 1/3 the remaining bechamel, then 1/3 of the mozzarella. Repeat the layers, then top with a final layer of lasagna sheets. Spread what remains of the bechamel evenly over the lasagna and sprinkle with the remaining mozzarella. At this point the lasagna may be refrigerated and baked later.

Bake at 375 degrees for 35 to 40 minutes or until bubbling and golden brown. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.

Per serving: 530 calories, 26 gm protein, 49 gm carbohydrates, 25 gm fat, 64 mg cholesterol, 13 gm saturated fat, 418 mg sodium

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Charlotte, NC: Hi there! Thanks as always for taking the time to do this chat!

Is there a suitable substitute for Molasses? Anytime I come across a recipe that uses molasses, I end up not making it, because I never have it on hand. I know I should just buy some, but in the meantime, can I use honey instead? or something else? Thanks!

Leigh: In terms of comparable consistency, you can substitute dark corn syrup, but I don't need to tell you, you will get a completely different flavor from it. Much less intense.

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Sheet cake: It's pretty easy to just buy a box (or 2) of cake mix in your local grocery. Those things can be made in 35 minutes flat with few extra ingredients.

Bonnie: Yeah, we thought about guilt-tripping the CAKE chatter, too. I bet she/he realizes that's an option.

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Silver spring, Md.: Loved today's Express Dinner recipe. I've made variations on it for years, using other vegetables (greens or broccoli rabe) and turkey sausage.

It's ALWAYS good, but the turkey sausage version is much lower in fat and calories than the printed version.

Jane: Yes -- for folks who are watching calorie and fat intake, that's a recipe where turkey sausage would make a fine substitute.

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Logan Circle, Washington, D.C.: I'm going to make a pork tenderloin tomorrow night. The recipe I'm using says to marinate the meat from 1 - 4 hours. Can I do it for close to 24 hours? I won't be able to get home from work early enough to do it from 1 - 4 hours, so i'm hoping to get it going tonight? thoughts? Can it marinate too long?

Thanks!!

Jane: To answer your question I'd really need to know what's in the marinade. But yes, it is possible to marinate something too long, to the point where the meat texture becomes unpleasant or the marinade flavor too strong. But why are you putting it in the marinade tonight? Do it tomorrow morning, just before you leave for work.

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Washington, D.C.: The first Silver Palate cookbook has a tasty recipe for molasses cookies. It is really easy because you melt the butter before mixing in the rest of the ingredients. It's great for impromptu cookie making.

Walter: From one of American cooks favorite books.

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Sweet & Salty: I think the Vosges Barcelona Bar is a perfect, simple example of how well sweet and salty works. It may sound unusual to have a chocolate bar of dark milk chocolate, almonds, and grey sea salt, but trust me, after one bite you will be looking for that salt in every bite.

(I know, it is an expensive candy bar, but perfect example)

Bonnie: and chocolate! a taste trifecta.

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Odd question for a foodie: But does anyone know of a decent (or better quality) instant coffee? I like to make faux cafe au lait by adding instant coffee to a cup of hot milk -- it helps me up my calcium intake. But I have been in search of a better quality instant coffee to use. Thanks for any suggestions!

Jane: I don't drink instant, but I do know that some recipes that call for good-quality instant coffee specify Medaglia D'Oro instant espresso. Have you tried it? Maybe we can get some suggestions from other chatters?

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Athens, Geo.: Hello, all! The Apple Cake with Honey Sauce recipe looks delicious. I want to make this for a party this weekend. Can it be make the day before and covered at room temp? Will the flavor or freshness suffer by making the day before? Is there a better way to store it? Thanks so much!

Bonnie: One day ahead and covered at room temp is fine for this cake, says author Sheilah Kaufman. Just make sure to keep the honey sauce separate, and warm it up at serving time.

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Sage: I made a rocking sage pesto a few weeks ago. About 3/4 sage and 1/4 parsley. Use walnuts and walnut oil and some shredded parmesan. Totally yummy over penne pasta.

Walter: I've got to try this. Thanks.

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College Park, Md.: Are you all too old to realize that readers want new ideas for what to put in our kids' lunches? Where are the fun, kid-friendly recipes? Come on.

Bonnie: Well, ouch. If we weren't so comfy in our rocking chairs right now, we'd get up and ... ask other chatters to weigh in here! Free Rangers are at their best when presented with such a challenge.

While we're waiting for kids lunch ideas to pour in, how about these:

--Core an apple and stuff it with peanut butter and raisins.

--Use cream cheese flavored with herbs/spices instead of mayo for tuna salad.

--Pack your kids' favorite leftovers instead of a sandwich.

--Include/make ethnic sandwich alternatives, such as empanadas, cheese tortillas.

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Falls Church, Va.: I just received an oval Le Creuset oven as a gift. What should I make in it? I'm so excited to inaugurate it!

Walter: How about a nice boeuf bourguignonne. The days are getting so much cooler.

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Arlington, Va.: help! I bought a cucumber that was bitter. i mean, totally bitter, ex-spouse bitter. what causes that and what can i do to minimize the bitterness. it totally ruined the cucumber salad i used it in.

Bonnie: Easy for us to say now, Arl, but taste ingredients before you combine. Was the peel involved? Did you include or discard any seeds? They are both bitter culprits. Next time you buy, look for a firm cucumber through to the ends without shriveling or discoloration.

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Washington, D.C.: Stadium pie is a great name. But this often happens if you haven't given the pie enough airholes, so the crust rises from the steam. It's actually a bit dangerous for the pie if your method for testing doneness is visible bubbles of apple through the slits, because the raised crust is too high, so you end up with an overcooked pie.

Walter: Sounds like you have plenty of experience.

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Washington, D.C.: Sweet and salty is great in desserts-- chocolate covered pretzels, yum-- although I'm not a fan of sweet and savory. No mango chutney on my pork, please!

So I got to thinking about oatmeal raisin cookies. I bet I could tweak a recipe to make the cookie part a little sweeter, and then salt the raisins before adding them.

How would I get the salt to stick to the raisins, and not dissipate into the surrounding cookie? Soak the raisins, them dry them in salt? Or would that be total overkill?

Leigh: Good question and good idea. You could try soaking the raisins in hot, salted water before adding to the cookie dough. This will both add saltiness as well as plump the raisins and prevent them from being dried out little bugs in your finished cookie.

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Washington, D.C.: Have any of you food-section-mavens, or chatters, had problem with new oven racks?

My oven racks resolutely refuse to slide; they don't slide against the ledges on the oven walls (which makes changing the position of the rack very difficult) and pans don't slide against the surface of the racks. I dread November 23, when I have to hold an 18-pound turkey at arms length inside the hot oven, to place it in the middle of the rack.

Any suggestions for improving the glide factor here?

Jane: Have you asked the manufacturer of your oven? Seems like a good place to start. Does anyone else have this problem?

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Stadium Apple Pie: Saute the apples first then put in pie pan and top with crust. Apples cook down on the stove top and do not shrink as much in the oven.

Walter: Stadium is popular today.

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Woodbridge, Va.: For the poster who made apple pie--saw a program on TV recently; I think it was America's Test Kitchen, on making apple pie. They didn't want there to be a hollow space between the crust and the apples, and so they precooked the apples, because apples shrink during cooking. They also manipulated the temperature somehow during cooking to make sure they didn't turn to mush from too much cooking.

Walter: And so much depends on the type of apple.

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Masarepa Question: I have a question about the differences among masarepa, masa harina, and regular corn meal and how each would be used. Because I wanted to make chochoyones, a Oaxacan dumpling, and couldn't find masa harina, which it called for, and was clueless as to what substitute I could use for all those different types of corn meal. I bought masarepa and my dumplings were like lead balls.

Bonnie: Oh, not good. We find those five-lb. bags of masa harina on the intl foods or baking aisle of larger grocery stores and at plenty of Latino specialty markets. Where are you looking?

Masa harina's hominy is different from regular cornmeal (according to our Food Lover's Companion) because its dried kernels are first cooked acidic solution of lime water, soaked overnight and ground into masa. Your masarepa sounds like it's a much finer corn flour that's processed in a different way.

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Food for 75 people: When ordering pizza, order some party wings also. A three foot sub from Giant would help also. They also sell pre-cut veggie and dip platters. In addition to the b-day cake, doughnuts are a necessity for kids (old and young).

Walter: I'm so glad I'm not a kid anymore.

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Apple Cider: With the cooler weather, my boyfriend's been itching for some apple cider, but anything we find in the stores just doesn't cut it. Do you have a favorite recipe, or even some tips for jazzing up the store bought stuff?

Bonnie: Hang on another week or so, and the season's ciders will appear in Whole Foods Markets and at roadside stands. I'm sure if you consult the pick-your-own orchard listings in Friday's Weekend section, you can grab cider at a place closest to you.

I mostly like my cider c-o-o-o-old, and don't do the jazz-up routine. You could infuse warm cider using a teaball with some cloves, nutmeg and pieces of cinnamon stick, tho.

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Arlington, Va.: So my boyfriend and I are on this new diet. It involves (among other things) eating a lot of what I like to call, "brown foods". In other words, whole wheat bread and pasta, brown rice, etc.

My question is this. I have a foccacia recipe I really like-- what do I need to keep in mind if I wanted to use whole wheat flour as opposed to my usual all-purpose? Do cooking times, resting times, kneading times change?

Thanks!

Bonnie: Go right ahead and substitute an equal-weight amount of whole wheat flour for white flour in your focaccia recipe.

But add about 10 percent more liquid and give the dough a little more time to absorb the liquid before you the kneading begins. Bake until you get the golden light brown crust we're all looking for.

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Sweet then salty: Pickled watermelon - i know, sounds strange, but it's very delicious and refreshing.

Also with watermelon (sweet) - feta cheese, olives and pinenuts with good balsamic.

And always the obvious apples and cheese.

Dallas, TX

Walter: Nothing odd about pickled watermelon.

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Springfield, Va.: My husband and I are trying to experiment a bit with our dinners. He had heard that a coffee based marinade works well for flank steak. I have been to epicurious, food.com and foodandwine.com but have had little luck - one Cafe au Lait bbq sauce. Thought I would ask the crowd if this is a true bit of information and if anyone has a recipe?

Thanks!!

Walter: Let's try in the next few minutes.

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Improving Cukes: I learned this from an Asian friend.

Cut an end off a cuke, and then rub the two cut ends together to see if a milky liquid comes to the edges. If so, keep rubbing until it stops (you may need to wipe the ends off a time or two in the process.) This goes a -long- way to ridding the bitterness of many cukes.

NB: This is much easier to do -before- you peel the cuke.

Sometimes a cuke doesn't have that "milk" and is still bitter, but mostly not. The friend who taught me this said that virtually all cukes in her part of the world are miserably bitter unless milked.

Give it a try.

Walter: A bitter reply.

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Pancake mix - recommendations??: Hi-

I'm helping plan a "camping" weekend. We'll have access to a (n unstocked) kitchen. The person who volunteered to make pancakes for breakfast just gave me his shopping list - for "complete pancake mix!"

So, is there a good way to make a mix more palatable, other than using quality syrup to hide the flavor? Or is there a particular brand of mix we should look for? We, of course, leave on Friday morning so there isn't heaps of time to shop and adjust plans/recipes.

thanks!

Bonnie: Add fresh blueberries and a little vanilla extract. Or sweet potato puree (guess a can's the way to go for you campers).

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Montgomery village Md. mom: Thanks for starting some suggestions on kids lunches. One quick reminder, many schools have banned peanut butter because some kids (like my son are allergic). Anyway my suggestions.

- my kids like sandwiches if we cut them in shapes with big cookie cutters. We make the sandwiches a bit in advance and use cookie cutters appropriate to the season.

-sugar snap peas are a great addition to lunches

-soup and crackers

-hummus and vegetables to dip

--cold rice salad with veggies

-cheese and crackers and grapes or other fruits

Looking forward to seeing what others add to this thread!

Bonnie: More bells and whistles.

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Kid's lunches:: My kids love tortilla wraps. Use herb-flavored cream cheese, put in a slice or two of lunch meat, some fresh greens, and roll. Wrap in wax paper and twist the ends. So easy and no mess while eating!

Bonnie: There you go.

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Kid-Friendly Recipes Comment: Thanks for addressing lunches! It's hard enough getting them off, but tackling fun, interesting lunches is a challenge.

Bonnie: We'll keep our eyes peeled for truly new things, too.

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Jazzed Up Hot Cider: I like to add caramel to my warm cider in the colder months. Also, not cheap, but Williams Sonoma had a spice mix to add to cider last season that was to die for. I never bought it, but always enjoyed a free sample in the store!

Bonnie: We approve!

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Walter: Next week we take a look at area county fair competitions and bring you winning recipes from the fairs. Of course there is more.

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Walter: And our winners today are Stadium Pie and Pork Tenderloin. Send your mailing info to food@washpost.com and out the books go. So until next week.

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