Animal tales, Vermont, San Diego and more.

The Flight Crew
Washington Post Travel Section
Monday, September 18, 2006; 2:00 PM

The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of ... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.

We know you have a choice in online travel forums, and speaking for the entire Flight Crew, we want to thank you for flying with us.

Today's Live Discussions
Monday's Sessions
Outlook: Statue of Liberty Poem, 11
Post Politics: Philip Rucker, 11
Magazine: Movie Mom, 12
Traffic-Transit: Dr. Gridlock, 12
Advice: Dear Prudence, 1
Travel: Flight Crew, 2

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You may also browse an archive of previous live travel discussions.

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John Deiner: Good afternoon, on this bright and beautiful day. Thanks for joining us. We have just about everyone on board this afternoon, so feel free to toss us your questions, and we'll try to toss something back atcha.

Apropos of our lead story this week on bears in the Grand Tetons, here's what we'd like today: Tell us your favorite/scariest/funniest critter tale. Have a raccoon crawl into a tent with you? Snuggle with a snake? Swim with the sharks? Let us know in as few words as possible -- keep it light and breezy and fun, folks. Just like you always do.

Your prize: Some decent junque from our Giant Box of Promotional Junque. I have a cool totebag from the Bahamas, plus a heavy-duty, full-color page-a-day calendar for 2007 (yes, next year! it's even useful!).

And away we go . . .

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SOMEONE has to say it: Well, there were these snakes on a plane, and . . .

John Deiner: And that someone just HAD to be you.

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Washington, DC: Well, I've decided I want to leave the rat race of DC and take a sabbatical. I am seriously thinking of quitting my job, selling my condo, and chucking it all to live abroad by myself for a while in Prague--probably for a couple of years. I'm considering all the practicalities of making this work and I'm worried about health insurance. I won't be covered by an employer. Are there any legit international health insurance companies I can research? Also, what kind of coverage should I get? I was thinking of only getting enough to cover serious conditions, things that would require going to the emergency room but not much more.

Steve Hendrix: Well, you should move to Prague for a year or two, we all agree on that (LOVE Prague). But we know squat about long-term international health insurance, WDC. Sorry. (First thing to check: Do they still have socialized medicine there?)

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Washington, DC: Weirdest moment with critters - I was at summer camp asleep by the campfire and a skunk came up and licked my feet in the middle of the night. Didn't know it, but the counselor saw it... ewwww. I know zip up my sleeping bag!

John Deiner: Holy cow. I've never even seen a skunk in the wild, just sort of plastered to the side of roads. Thanks for starting us off on a stinky note.

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Sleeping with the Wallabies: My wife awoke at dawn on a camping trip in southeastern Australia's Dandenong Ranges to find a wallaby curled up next to her for warmth. She tried to carefully reach for her camera, but her movement woke the creature which hopped to its feet, stared at her for a moment, then hopped off into the brush.

John Deiner: Oh, how cute! They're not man-eaters, are they? Nice tale...thanks for sharing.

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New York, NY: Looking for a weekend trip to see fall foliage/ enjoy the outdoors, not too far from NYC- any ideas? Is northern VT worth the drive? Does PA have anything to offer? Other options?

Anne McDonough: I just came back from a glorious weekend in Vermont (a weekend unfortunately extended by a looonnnggg delayed flight out of Albany due to fog in those northern parts) and would heartily recommend a driving trip up there, heading up to the Ripton/Middlebury/Burlington area (full disclosure: I'm a Midd grad); it's just spectacular right now. A little chill in the air at night but short sleeve weather during the day. My other suggestion, based on a recent weekend that was just perfect, would be upstate New York (Rhinebeck, East Chatham--try to fit in the Shaker Museum if you go there-Red Hook, etc. Foliage plus house tours=perfect fall excusion). For PA I'm going to have to throw this out to the chatsters...want to chime in?

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Destination wedding: Hi Crew! I'm hoping you can help me. A childhood friend has decided to get married at the end of January in the Dominican Republic (Puntacana). She's asked me several times if I'd go- and I'd like to, but I'm very concerned about costs. Do any of you (or the other chatters) have a ballpark of what such a trip costs? The wedding is on a Saturday, so most people are going down on Wednesday or Thursday and returning on Sunday (making a mini-vacation out of it). I'm just looking for an estimate to see if it's feasible. The bride hasn't sent me the info yet, but it's at one of the resorts there. Also, any recommendations or suggestions you have for planning are very welcome. Thanks!

Cindy Loose: The devil is in the exact details--it varies by date and by property. It also matters alot whether you're going to stay in a room with a friend or relative---most properties in Punta Cana are all inclusive--meaning drinks, food, tips, taxes, transfers from airport in DR, room. Prices are usually quoted per person assuming two people. If you stay in a room as a single, the per person charge jumps way up.

I'd say a four night trip you might find as low as $900 all inclusive, but more likely you'd be looking at the pricequoted by Apple Vacations for an Iberostar at the end of Jan.--$1,290 including airfare and all the other stuff I mentioned.

If you can't afford it, or if you can and that's not how you want to spend limited vacation money, send regrets.

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Gaithersburg, Md: Very timely article this weekend re: visiting the House of Commons in London as my mom and I JUST booked a trip there! But, just an FYI to everyone. I found the info at the end of the article a tad misleading. You cannot apply for the Card of Introduction online. It was also quite challenging to find the info on the site. Here's what it says: "To request a card of introduction from the Embassy please telephone (44) (0)20-7894 0217 giving the names of all persons on whose behalf you are applying, the date or dates you would like to attend Parliament and a daytime telephone number."

Just thought you and the 'nuts should know...THANKS!

Andrea Sachs: Thanks for the information (and glad to hear that you are going). We are going to look into it, to make sure we supply the easiest way to sign up.

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Washington, D.C.: My husband will be in Stockholm for all of October and November. I plan to hop over to Europe in November for a short visit (leave D.C. Thursday night; leave Europe Tuesday mid-day). We're trying to come up with a place to meet. I've backpacked Europe (and lived there for two years) and he's visited quite a few cities. The only places we've ruled out are places we've both visited: Greece, Italy, Stockholm, Helsinki, and London. Keeping in mind that it will be mid-November and that I don't want to waste too much of my time getting there and back, where would you suggest going? If it helps narrow it down, we're mid-twenties and we prefer active schedules to long afternoons at cafes.

Gary Lee: There are lots of options but let me narrow it to three: 1) Berlin, one of the most exciting cities in Europe 2) Lisbon, which has lots of cool things to do and might have decent weather even in November 3) Copenhagen. Although it will be pretty nippy, it is fun and youthful, has great distractions and the locals are friendly...

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Arlington, Va: This is a late response to last week's chat - there is beautiful fall foilage driving US Route 15 N from Harrisburg to Williamsport in Pennsylvania around Columbus Day weekend. For various reasons, I've made the drive many times through the years and it is usually wonderful. My best view, however, was when I flew from Buffalo to Dulles on a United Express prop plane (only 19 seats) in mid-October about 5 years ago. The plane flew low & the colors on the trees were magnificent.

Anne McDonough: A week late but just in time, as the poster this week is looking for PA foliage tips. Thanks, Arl!

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From Last week on Rockville to Grand Canyon: I have been there numerous times I know that area well. If you fly into Vegas (stay overnight), I would suggest a week trip where you drove and did Bryce Canyon (overnight in Bryce-be there for sunrise and sunset), then drive through Escalante NM on a dirt road (depending on weather --it is car safe-if not then you could drive around to Page) down to Page and explore some of the slot canyons (overnight in Page). From here if it is you first visit drive to South Rim of the Grand Canyon (easier hikes and better views-North rim is more for serious hikers) for 1 day you could stay overnight or drive back up to Lees Ferry. Then drive back up through lees Ferry on 89 down through Kanab on to Zion (over night near Zion).

For a week trip there would be three extra days where you can explore various other parks in the Utah and Arizona or do side trips over two or three days. Easy side trips would be Monument Valley/Navajo Indian Reservation, Sedona, Route 12 in Utah from Bryce Canyon out to Boulder and back, and other State Parks/National Monuments in Northern Arizona/Southern Utah.

Another option in the area is if you are in a car, to spend a day with tour outfitters that explore the off-road back country that explore Glen Canyon NRA, Bryce area, and near Capital Reef NP.

In Syndey one place would be: Sports Central, Sydney, Australia, Bent Street, Fox Studios, Moore Park. What would be true as well in Europe many local bars or sports bars with satellite dishes will be bringing in NFL games-especially in tourist areas. If you live there you may be able to find some online sources that will say where games are televised like in chats or blogs.

Steve Hendrix: Will just sit here and let YOU ALL answer the questions...

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Miami, Fla: Hello Crew!

My wife and I want to go to the Grand Canyon. Which is better to fly into, Phoeix or Las Vegas? When is a good time to see the Canyon? We want to avoid the rush of people and be able to relax there.

Thanks!

Steve Hendrix: Assuming that you're mostly interested in the main canyon activities around the village, Phoenix is better. (Also, the North Rim lodges are closed in the winter).

But why listen to me? Another chatter has answered your question. See the following:

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Farragut North, Washington, DC: Back in the late 90s, I was staying at the Edgewater Hotel in Seattle. There was an awning outside my balcony, and one particular gull had claimed that spot as its own, probably many years ago. I knew it was the same gull because it had one red spot on its lower beak, causing me to name it Dracula. I spent about half a week chilling with Dracula, tossing it bread, sweet rolls, etc., and watching it leap up and over the awning to catch the pieces.

Very, very pleasant way to spend vacation nights.

John Deiner: Hey, it was the gull of your dreams, eh? Sorry. How very neat to have a bird to keep you company on the road -- thanks for sharing.

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Bear Tales: I was on a hiking/biking trip in Glacier National Park, Montana, and upon arrival we had gotten a serious lecture about bear safety. They had put the fear of God (or bears?) into our heads, so we were all alert, cautious, and somewhat paranoid. One day I was biking with a friend at a high elevation, and from the valley below we would occasionally hear the loud bellows of some unseen creature. We started to descend the mountain, and at the bottom we realized we had taken a wrong turn and were lost. We got off our bikes to consult a map, and while we were standing there the brush off to the side of the road started rustling loudly. Certain it was a bear, I screamed and jumped on my bike, pedaling as fast as I could (and leaving my poor friend to fend for herself). When I looked back over my shoulder, I saw a wild mustang emerge from the trees. I bought all my friend's drinks that night.

John Deiner: Sounds like an easy mistake to make, BT! Glad ya made it out of their in one piece.

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PA, leaf-peeping: Yes, yes, yes! There are wonderful deciduous autumn leaves in Pennsylvania, and even a state tourism website which lists exactly which dates the colors are at their peak, by region. And it's not nearly as far from DC, if you're limited to a day-trip or 2-day weekend.

Anne McDonough: I think the poster was from NYC, but it's just as close to them as it is to us ;) The tourism site, www.visitpa.com, will start its Fall Foliage report on Sept. 20, so check that out for more info-thanks for the tip!

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Silver Spring, Md.: I'm joining my husband for a weekend in San Diego after he attends a conference there. We're planning on booking a hotel downtown and are wondering: do we really need a car while we're there? Neither of us has ever been; two things we definitely want to do are go to the zoo and get some fish tacos! Other than that, we do enjoy wandering around new cities, eating and drinking well. Any suggestions?

Carol Sottili: You should do a search of our chats for the many responses we've written to San Diego questions: As this is one of our most frequently asked questions, you'd probably get a very good overview of the city by reading through all of them. You don't need a car, but if you want to go up to La Jolla or to Pacific Beach or Mission Beach, it's a good idea. Last I checked, you'd need to take a bus from downtown to the zoo: no trolley service there. Fish tacos are everywhere, although the best fish tacos I ever ate were off a cart in Ensenada, Mexico (please don't send emails about the dangers of eating off carts in Mexico). If you're downtown without a car, there is still plenty to do. If baseball is still on, the new Petco ballpark is beautiful. Gaslamp Quarter is full of great bars and restaurants. Seaport Village is cute with shopping, restaurants. Walking along the harborfront is restful, and you can hop on a boat to do some more sightseeing.

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Bethesda, Md: Ahh.. I guess I should have asked this much sooner, but better late than never. I am going to Paris on Wed. On Sat we are renting a car and driving out of Paris towards Chablis and Dijon. Is my drivers license good enough or am I gonna need to do something to make it an "international" license?

Thanks for the help!

Cindy Loose: The French Embassy site says: You may drive with a valid U.S. driver's license. In addition to that, it is recommended (not required) to carry an International Driving Permit or attach a French translation to your US driver's license.

It's easy to get one if want to follow the recommendations: AAA and one other simliar company whose name I'm currently forgetting handle them--it's quick and costs $20. DONT be fooled by some of the internet offers---they charge alot and they are bogus.

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San Diego, Calif: About twelve years ago, my mom, sister, and I went on a road trip through the northwest. We camped part of the way, including at Mount Rainier in Washington. On our hike, my wildlife biologist sister found a small green snake. Much to my dismay, she caught it. She began walking toward me, explaining "See, it's not poisonous--look at its head!" I backed away. About ten seconds later, she shouted and dropped the snake. Sure, it wasn't poisonous, but it had the nastiest smell as a defense mechanism. She couldn't get the stink of her hands for at least three days!

And a second snake story: Last month, the three of us were hiking in Sedona. A man ahead of us waved to the side of the path and said "It's not dangerous!" He kept going. As we approached the place he had indicated, we realized he had pointed at a baby rattler.

John Deiner: Ewwwww. Don't touch nature. That's all there is to it.

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Vienna, Va: I'm looking for an outfitter for a bike trip across northern Spain on the "Peligrino de Santiago de Compostella". I've found lots of American outfitters but as a fairly fluent Spanish speaker I'd rather travel with a Spanish company. Do you know about such an outfitter?

Thanks,

Gary Lee: Try madridandbeyond.com. Ask for Nigel. I had a guide from them who seemed to know every inch of that trail.

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The New Rules: When are they going to revert back to the old ones? Numerous media outlets, including the WaPo, have pointed out how easily these rules are skirted. They provide no protection, but incur numerous headaches. Why are they still in place?

KC Summers: I doubt we'll ever go back to the old rules. They may be easily skirted, but they're on the right track. All you have to do is remember that Philippines Airlines explosion in 1994, when one passenger was killed and 10 injured from a bomb that was assembled in the lavatory and placed under his seat, to realize how scarily easy it is to assemble bombs from seemingly innocent gels and liquids. Obviously they need to upgrade their screening since so many people are getting past the new rules, but I for one support the changes.

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Washington, DC: Not my story, but:

A friend of mine was at a campsite in Virginia that was also home to a variety of farm animals (many of them rescues from abusive situation). My friend had decided to sleep in the minivan for some reason or another and woke up to the vehicle shaking. Apparently, the resident bull had amorous intentions toward it.

John Deiner: Yikes. Let's just let that one sit out there.

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Crownsville, Md: What's the definition of a "boutique hotel"? My husband and I just returned from one such self-billed establishment in Seattle. The rooms were small but well-furnished, but there were no amenities whatsoeverother than heat, a/c and a smallish TV, there were no amenities whatsoever. This was actually fine, and we chose it for the low price, but we(erroneously?) thought a boutique hotel would give you the kind of personalized service you get in shopping boutique.

Cindy Loose: For sure a boutique hotel should have fewer than 100 rooms. After that, most people would agree with you that boutique implies high standards and personal service. At the travel section, that's what we mean when we call something boutique. Problem is, anyone can call themselves boutique, so don't judge a hotel by it's self-description.

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Favorite Critter Tale: You know those moments in life that are so perfect that you want to freeze them in time? I had one years ago in London. It was very early, and I was going out for a run. The moon was full, or near enough not to matter. As I started out, I looked up and saw a goose flying in front of the moon. (Think E.T., but more touching.) I paused and watched, wishing that I could stop the world and hold the moment forever. Of course, that couldn't be done. Fast forward MANY years, and with all of the non-migrating migratory Canada geese (a/k/a poop machines)in Northern Virginia, my wish would be different. I'd wish for a gun and the ability to hit what I aimed at!

John Deiner: Such a nice story, until it turned violent. I think we can all relate, though!

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Arlington, Va.: Do I need an international driver's license to rent a car in Italy? I'm finding much contradictory information on the subject -- some sites say it's "recommended" to carry one (something I've ignored in other European countries), others that it's required. My only concern is being turned away from the rental counter.

Cindy Loose: In Italy, that can happen. I've heard of it. It may not happen to you, but to be on the safe side I'd get one---see earlier posting for details.

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Washington, DC: During long flights I use a nose gel (called Nose Better) to counter the dry cabin air. I know I can't bring the tube onto aircraft anymore, but was wondering if I could get away with putting a small amount of the gel into a baggie and carrying that in a pocket?

KC Summers: Now that's a lovely image. Not condoning this, but a lot of people are sneaking that kind of thing past security, according to news reports. You've just got to be prepared to give it up. Sometimes you get caught, sometimes you don't.

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Georgetown, Washington, DC: I have visitors arriving from Japan today, and I just tracked their plane's progress minute by minute as it headed down California and into LAX! I don't have a question, I just want to say that technology is so freaking cool. Can't wait til the flight leaves LA and I can watch it cross the continent....

Anne McDonough: I agree--it IS cool, and it takes a lot of the guesswork out of picking people up at airports. It's nice that your visitors are arriving with such great weather, too.

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Orange, Va: A friend and I just returned from 2 weeks in Toronto for the film festival and also fit in some sightseeing and fine diming. This is just to remind folks that Canada does not have an ADA, so is sadly lacking in ramps, escalators and elevators. My friend walks with double canes and usually manages OK, but the 112+ steps from the street level to the platform at the St. Andrews subway stop totally defeated him. So we wound up taking a lot of cabs. Funny thing is, we went to Montreal, a much older city, a couple years ago and don't recall this having been that much of a problem. We actually had anticipated taking cabs, just not so many of them. So be warned! But everyone was pleasant and helpful and we saw some awesome films, so it all ended well.

John Deiner: Thanks for the reminder, Orange. Sorry you had so much difficulty, but hopefully your posting here will help others in the sae situation.

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petty bureacrat in DC: Hi guys, love your chats! Thanks for the article on the curbside buses. I have tried for a long time to convince friends that the $5 savings on these buses is not worth the serious safety issues. The online prices for reliable and safe Greyhound/Peter Pan are only slightly more. I have seen these buses on I-95 zipping in and out of traffic and endangering their riders as well as the other drivers. I have even seen them speeding down Georgia Ave/7th Street, NW, to their dropoff points. I am definitely in favor of free enterprise but safety rules and regulations are there for a reason and everyone needs to play by the same rules. Someone's gonna get hurt!

Cindy Loose: It's interesting to see what you've witnessed. A columnist for the Post rode one, along with the driver's dog (we hope it wasn't a seeing eye dog) and he mentioned the bus jumpting the curb to get around traffic. He wrote it like it was funny, but it wouldn't have seemed so funny is something had gone wrong.

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Anonymous: What a shame the lovely article on Dijon ended with the author accessing places closed to the public. Perhaps a reason why American tourists get such a bad rap?

KC Summers: Ah. One of my (apparently more judicious) colleagues warned me about printing that. Yeah, folks, for the record, you shouldn't go wandering around parts of buildings that are closed off to the public. Mea culpa.

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Arlington, Va: Critter tales (sorry so long - but a lot went on!): all within about 45 minutes of a back-country camping trip in Shenandoah. About 20-30 minutes in I swore I saw a black bear cub. We kept moving, though, because where there's a cub there's a mommy. I'm setting the pace, my (now) husband is right behind me on a quite narrow trail. I'm walking along and hear the unmistakable sound of a rattler. Freeze, look down, and I am very close to stepping an a huge timber rattlesnake. Husband tells me to get out of its way. I am frozen in fear. He grabs my pack, pushes me off the trail away from the snake and we get by it. I'm freaked out. But we keep going. We duck off the trail to filter some water for our bottles. We get through the clearing and on the other side of the small creek is a HUGE black bear. And you know the saying that they are more afraid of you then you are of them. So not the case. It was irritated by us and growling or hissing or something at us. We backed away and got back on the trail and made sure it wasn't following us. I was bit of a wreck. My husband, in his typical unflabbale style, simply said: "I didn't know black bears got that big." Understatement of the trip.

John Deiner: Scary stuff, Arl. Glad you're still here to tell the tale.

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Alaska bound:: We're considering a cruise next summer and looking at Royal Caribbean vs Holland. We'd looking for something that's not a party ship but not all shuffleboard either. We'd like comfort, good food and active (ie hiking) shore excursions.

Cindy Loose: Used to be you could make some stereotypical determinations about Royal Caribbean vs Holland and a number of other lines, but these days, it's more about the individual ship than it is the individual line.

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Olney, Md.: Did I miss something? I thought Cindy Loose would discuss the "Chinatown Buses" story on line.

Cindy Loose: I'm online--getting to those quesitons now. HOld tight.

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Washington, DC: Follow-up to wine Q in Sunday paper: I'm heading to France next week and also would like to bring back wine. I checked with UPS/FedEx/DHL and they won't ship alcohol to an individual, so how can the French shop be able to mail it to me as suggested in the paper? Does anyone know if shipping alcohol is obscenely expensive? Alternatively, any tips on packing wine in my suitcase so it won't break?

Thanks

Andrea Sachs: A French company, like a liquor store or winery, has the authority to send wine abroad because it is for commercial reasons. Individuals, however, cannot send wine unless authorized (you must be a licensed distributor). I do not know the cost of shipping, unfortunately. But for packing tips, roll your bottles in bubble wrap and clothing and place them in the center of your luggage, surrounded by soft goods. Also, place the bottles in a plastic bag, in case of breakage or leakage.

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Liquids on planes: I just wanted to suggest something that worked well for me. The problem with packing shampoo, lotions, etc (even in a plastic bag)in your suitcase, is it they can explode when crushed under the weight of other suitcases. I placed all of my small bottles in a tupperware container and the bottles have survived very well on my last few flights.

KC Summers: Smart. Thanks for the tip! (If you could send your name and town to me at summersk@washpost.com, I'd love to add this to our upcoming followup story on post-9/11 travel tips.)

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Arlington, Va: A few weeks ago - during the week they uncovered the plot in England - my husband and I were flying to Montreal, on Continental, stopping over in Newark.

Well, he also happened to have a doctor's appt in NYC the Tuesday after we returned. We decided it'd be easiest for him to get off in Newark and just stay up there. Since it was the final leg - Newark to DC - that he'd miss, we figured, no problem.

Well, after all that happened, we figured we should call Continental and tell them that we were doing this so he didn't send up a million red flags or something. They charged us $100 change fee! They tried to also charge $400 more, but we begged our way out of that.

I feel that this is so outrageous. He simply wasn't taking the last leg. That's it.

Of course, I wrote to them and got a nice form letter in return.

Why don't airlines realize that when they treat people with utter disdain, they don't get them back as customers?

Thanks for letting me rant.

Carol Sottili: I think you're lucky that you managed to beg your way out of the $400. We have tried to warn readers about not showing up for a leg of the trip - the airlines have the legal right to ding you for it. A document called a "contract of carriage" gives the airlines the right to charge you a change fee and a different fare if you take a different trip than the one you booked. You usually get away with it when it's the last leg of the trip because they then have to hunt you down, and they don't bother. But if you neglect to show up for a leg of a trip before you return, you'll find that your return reservations have been cancelled when you get to the airport.

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Central California: Critter Story: It took all we had to get our pamper partners to book a tent cabin vacation in Yosemite. After addressing the shared bathroom/shower situation(very nice by the way) the subject of insects and critters came up. I admitted that you would probably hear bears rattling trash cans, but don't be such scaredy cat.

Upon arrival, as she swung open the tent cabin door, loaded down with luggage, two large racoons scurried out past her legs. Screams and luggage flying .... took about 20 minutes to talk her down.

John Deiner: Great stuff, CC! Raccoons are wily little things, aren't they?

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Euros vs. Dollars: I recently returned from my first-ever trip to Europe (Ireland and France). At a couple of hotels and the rental car agency, I was asked "Do you want us to charge your credit card in Euros or dollars?" I didn't think it made any difference. When I got my credit card statement, I found out that it did: when I said "Dollars", there was no currency conversion surcharge for that purchase. So, travelers should always say "dollars" when given a choice.

KC Summers: Well, it's more complicated than that. I'll post a link to a recent story we did on that very question. In a nutshell, as our story explained, using the dollars option could be a bad deal. "If the transaction is run in dollars, cardholders can get socked with a dismal exchange rate, compared with charges that are processed in the local currency (euros, for example) and converted at or near the interbank clearing rate by Visa or MasterCard." Link with more details coming up...

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Washington DC: Cape Point in South Africa has these awful baboons. They're totally fearless, very greedy, and very agressive. They weigh 90 pounds, and have four-inch fangs, and they're documentedly mysogynistic. Imagine a park squirrel nearly as big as you are that won't take no for an answer.

We spent maybe 20 minutes in the parking lot before walking up to the Point, and had literally to slap their hands away as they tried to reach into our car, and at one scary moment, even our pockets. I saw one actually jump inside another family's car-- while the family was in it!-- to snatch a candy bar.

John Deiner: Note to self: Avoid those awful babboons. Or least keep the windows shut. You guys have had some wild adventures.

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washingtonpost.com: Charge It...but Check the Math , (Post, July 31, 2005)

KC Summers: Here's our story on credit card transactions abroad.

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Washington DC: Hi,

Good piece on the Chinatown buses yesterday. My question: are the Vamoose buses that used to pick up in Tenleytown and downtown DC involved in the kind of safety and regulatory violations you covered? I know they still run from a Bethesda location to NYC and back, but what's the deal with the no-DC stops? Thanks

Cindy Loose: I did not have access to all the information that would allow me to publically make conclusions beyond what I revealed in print. However, I can tell you that I spoke at length with the Vamoose owners, they were very responsive, and I have no evidence indicating they've ever had an untoward number of fines or violations. I take comfort, rightly or wrongly, that a company lists a real address and real phone number when they register with the feds---a bespeaks a basic level of honesty and respect for the law to me.

They are having a fight now with another Hasidic owned company but it has nothing to do with safety--it's about how a Hasidic court said that Vamoose should leave D.C. to another Hasidic company that was there first, and now the quesiton is whether a civil court will want to interfere with a religious civil settlement.

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Pittsburgh, Pa: This might be a stupid question: Does it matter that my plane ticket to Europe doesn't include my middle name, but my passport does? I just noticed it and I can't remember if I ever used my middle name on tickets. Also, where can I find info on what European airlines allow on board these days? Thanks!

Andrea Sachs: It should not matter; I have never used my middle name for tickets, though my passport lists an "L". As long as your first and last names match up, you should be fine.

For info on European airline rules: Each airline's Web site should list what they allow and what they ban for carry-on items. If you cannot find it online, call the reservations number--the agents should know this info without having to think.

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Silver Spring, Md.: When I was in college, I spent two weeks on an island on the Great Barrier Reef that had two components: a resort and a research station. (I was at the latter, in bunks.) Heron Island had about 50 bazillion birds, many of which had very amusing behaviors and calls - the ones that sounded like they were moaning in pain all night were particularly hilarious. But the best animals on the island were the green sea turtles that nest there.

We were there partway through the nesting season, so every evening around sunset we'd see the tiny baby turtles digging out of their underground nests and scrabbling down the beach to the water - where, often, sharks were waiting for what must have seemed to them like popcorn from the shore.

Then later, after it got dark, the enormous females would drag their heavy, awkward bodies out of the water and up the beach. It took the most incredible effort, hauling with both front fins on a body that was clearly meant for underwater maneuvering.

It was pretty amazing, and I felt lucky to witness it every night.

John Deiner: Thanks, SS. That's a lovely story, and a nice change of pace. Thanks for sharing it with us.

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Pasadena, Calif.: A few weeks ago my husband, brother and sis-in-law

swam with sharks a few miles off the north shore of Oahu.

The sea was so rough nearly everyone threw up and the

sharks ate it.

(Sorry so gross, but I really need a calendar. Should I add

that my fairly odd brother dressed like Steve Zissou?)

And a question: Planning 2 weeks in NZ; have business in

Christchurch and have pretty much decided to spend the

whole time on the South Island. Thoughts on this? and

suggested sites for a 3-year-old? We're thinking farmstay.

Steve Hendrix: What do expect from animals that will a human leg WITH THE SHOE ON IT. Wet shoes at that. Disgusting.

Speaking of questionable eats and New Zealand farmstays, there's a great on one the highway to Mt. Cook where I stayed a couple years ago (We'll link). They deliberately didn't get a restaurant license because they wanted to serve mutton the genuine farm way, i.e., after it's hung unrefridgerated in the barn for a few days before cooking. Best mutton I've ever had.

You're plan is sound. The South Island will more than hold your interest for two weeks. Christchurch alone is worth 3 or four days. Queensland ditto. Mt. Cook, Milford, the glaciers, that park-filled northwester corner. You're golden.

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Olney, Md: To Cindy Loose

Up until I read your article I was scheduled to travel with Eastern Travel and Tours to N.Y.City. The "Company Snapshot" on FMCSA's line gives them questionable rating. They have NO insurance! They also do business with New Oriental Tour. The drivers there have poor safety records per the "Company snapshot" but have $5M in insurance. I have cancelled.

Cindy Loose: I don't have that info at my fingertips, but I'd be surprised if Eastern had operating authority and no insurance---they couldnt get operating authority wihtout the insurance. Maybe it's a case of a name change? Before cancelling I'd call the company and ask for their corporate name, to make sure you have the company that operates buses called Eastern.

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Washington, DC: Hi, I'm traveling from San Francisco to China next fall. I don't know yet whether it will be Air China or another airline. Either way, is it worth it to pay the extra money for a business class ticket for the 13-hour flight? Coach is about $900, Business is about $3000. How much extra room am i getting for three times the price? Thanks!

Anne McDonough: Plenty of people will disagree with me, especially since it is a long flight, but if I had a choice between $900 and $3000 it wouldn't be much of a choice. You end up being stiff and cranky no matter where you sit (admittedly much more in my section ;) so for my money it's not worth it.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Thanks so much for the article about the Chinatown buses - that makes me feel very good about my decision a few years back to switch to Greyhound. Almost as cheap, and it leaves from a real bus station - I always got totally stressed out waiting on some random corner in midtown NYC for a bus with an increasingly nervous crowd of fellow passengers. Now I just stand in line at Port Authority. And best of all: Greyhound runs expresses from New York to Silver Spring.

Cindy Loose: I can see that, although for alot of people I think the pickup on the curb right outside their office doors, or near their home, is the biggest draw.

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Washington, DC: Are you finding more hotels are stocking things like toothpaste and hairgel now?

Gary Lee: We did some reporting on this and found that many chains and independent hotels are stocking toothpaste and other amenities. Most keep them at the front desk so you have to ask for them.

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My bear story: A few years ago, my friends and I took a road trip from Colorado to California and camped in Lake Tahoe for a night. My friends are super runners while I am more of a jogger. I joined them on a trail run and was quickly left behind as they began racing. No biggie. As I made my way back to the campsite, about twenty feet in front of me, a bear crossed the path, turned around and sat looking at me.

I watched some nature shows telling you what to do for all types of bears, but didn't know what type this was. I decided to whistle since I remembered something about acting human. Slowly, I walked past the bear and then ran faster then I ever have in my life.

From now on, I keep up!

John Deiner: Seems as if you don't provoke the bears and keep your distance you should be okay, but, man. . . I don't know too many people who want to test that.

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St. Paul, Minn: To the question re: when will carry-on rules change...I've been flying weekly between here and Newark, NJ because of family illness and have not felt one bit safer. Flight crews can carry on bottled water; one passenger last week carried on a bottle of pop and was stopped by the flight attendant. He carried it in full view onto the plane -- made it through the boarding area just fine. On Continental in Newark, security took my solid makeup and lip gloss; three days later at security for Northwest, both passed muster. Bottom line: it seems to be totally luck of the draw as far as what is OK and what isn't.

KC Summers: Well, yeah. Security has always been spotty and sporadically enforced. People have managed to board planes with knives, guns and worse. Does this mean we should abandon all attempts to screen these things? We should insist on a more thorough, less half-assed screening system -- not flout it.

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New York City: We're planning on a night in NYC on 10/7 (we planned before realizing it was Columbus Day weekend). We're having a hard time finding anything in the midtown area for under $350 (preferably under $250). Are we dreaming? Our biggest issue seems to be that there are 3 of us so we need more than 1 bed which seems kind of scarce from the places we've looked. We looked at all the usual from expedia to kayak... any other suggestions or hotels in a fairly good location that might not show up on those searches? Or should we jump at anything under $400? Thank you!!

Anne McDonough: We've been having similar experiences looking for hotels during that time frame. Coming up should be a link to the story about NYC hotels under $200 that we ran last May (that was the price we found then, so so there are no guarantees but you might get some ideas, and there are plenty in midtown but also all over Manhattan). Alternatively, and included in the Under-$200 package, were options in Jersey City, Weehawken and Fort Lee, all in Jersey very close to the the city.

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Bora Bora memories: On our honeymoon, we were swimming with some stingrays with a guide. Just as I was about to climb back aboard the boat, two very big stinrays (3 foot wingspan) decided to give me a hug. I was the filling in a stingray sandwich. Happily, I did not freak out and they were just being friendly, I suppose. I can still recall the sensation of being enveloped by stingrays.

John Deiner: Well, we all know now what stingrays can do! Sweet story, though, BBM.

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Arlington, Va: Thank you for the piece on curbside bus services. Not mentioned was the Vamoose bus--what is its reputation? I've seen it loading and unloading at McPherson Square and it seems less skeevy than the Chinatown buses.

Cindy Loose: I haven't investigated their fleet, but I and others have noticed seeing Vamoose buses that are quite new. See earlier comments posted about Vamoose, too.

But alas, they are no longer operating from McPherson, or anywhere in D.C. They are going out of Bethesda, and oculd possibly add other Maryland locations. They just can't operate out of D.C. right now- it's a long and fascinating story about a fight for territory between two Hasidic-owned companies, as mentioned in my last posting. I'll let everyone know how it turns out, when it turns out.

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washingtonpost.com: We'll Take Manhattan , (May 2006)

Anne McDonough: Here's the link to the NYC hotels package-thanks, Kim!

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Dupont Circle, Washington, DC: We're planning to go to St. Louis for Oktoberfest October 6-7 (less than 21 days at this point) and would also like to stop in Cincinnati for a day on the way to see a friend. It seems the Cincinnati to St. Louis portion of the trip is adding a LOT to our ticket price. Are we missing looking at an alternate airport for either city that might lower the cost? Any other suggestions for a way to make this trip to middle America cost less than a trip to the West coast? Thanks!

Carol Sottili: There really is no alternative airport near St. Louis. I have been tempted to fly into Chicago and then drive three hours to St. Louis because it's just so much cheaper, but I always bite the bullet and pay to get to St. Louis. It often costs more to go round trip from here to St. Louis than to go to the West Coast, and that's without a stop in another city. As for Cincinnati, again, no cheaper alternative city within very easy striking distance. Make sure you've tried leaving out of BWI.

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Steve Hendrix: Pasadena, the link to that New Zealand story is busted (permanently, they fear). Here's the specific info that excellent farm stay place near Mt. Cook. (And if you want a copy of the entire story, email me at hendrixs@washpost.com and I'll send you the text).

My favorite place was Lakeview Homestay, a recently built private farmhouse 30 minutes from Mount Cook National Park. For about $120 a night, you get overwhelming views, abundant farm cooking, sheep dog demos and hosts who know how to keep you lingering around the table to hear more dubious yarns. Info: 011-64-3-435- 0567, www.lakeviewhomestay.co.nz.

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re: Chinatown Buses: I took them from H Street to NYC at least once a month - sometimes more - as did my then-fiance, now husband. I've taken Eastern, Washington Deluxe (the Chassidic line), and New Century.

One of the reasons I took 'em (and DC tourist office take note!!!): Waiting on H Street amid the hustle of Chinatown and the MCI centers is MUCH better than waiting in the that hole of a bus station on K Street.

Cindy Loose: Thanks---Let's hope that the bus station people are tuned in.

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Washington, DC: My funniest/scariest critter moment... we were in Botswana on a small island in the middle of the Okavango Delta, camping under the stars. My wife headed out to use the ladies room (aka, tree), and was greeted by a very surprised hippo that grunted loudly and rustled the bushes. Nothing quite gets your heart pumping than being between something that big and the place where it wants to be! The foot prints the next morning (20 yards or so from our tent) were bigger than a dinner plate.

John Deiner: You get extra points just for the parenthetical "(aka, tree)." Great stuff, DC.

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Lancaster, Pa: Favorite critter story - hubby and I were vacationing in Italy and were at an apartment in a very rural area of Umbria - place was surrounded by pine trees and olive groves - gorgeous. Our first evening there, we were sitting out on the patio admiring the view, accompanied by the owner's dog and two cats. Suddenly, we heard a rustling in the bushes just below the patio. We grabbed a flashlight to take a look - and it was a porcupine - not three feet from the patio. Had to step back quickly and watch the cats dart away as the porcupine started shooting quills... but it was quite the experience. The little bugger came back two additional evenings of our trip (no more quill shooting though - we decided to forego the flashlight)...guess we made friends.

Carol Sottili: I have my own cute porcupine story sans quills: Was skiing in Alta a few years ago when everyone on the trail slowed down in front of us. We came around the bend and there was a porcupine lumbering across the snow. Quite an interesting animal, and it left the strangest trail. Locals don't like 'em because they girdle trees. But I thought it was a nice break from the ski action.

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Re: business or economy class to China?: Having recently endured coach-class flights over the Pacific, I say, if you can afford the extra money, go business class. Coach was absolutely horrible. Don't just think about the cramped space -- also realize you'll be sharing the bathrooms with many, many more people than you would in business class. You'll get less food less often. Check sites like epinions.com and seatguru.com to see what the airline's business-class service is like, what the seat pitches are, etc., to see if it's worth it. There's one site that I can't remember anymore that evaluated airlines' first- and business-class seats and service -- just do a web search on your airline and "business class" and it'll probably come up.

Anne McDonough: I've flown to and from China about five times and have always survived coach class--on one trip I even had an entire middle row to myself. But I concede your points, and if you do have the money, then it could be worth it. Skytrax also compares seat info on various airlines (read the fine print): http://www.airlinequality.com/Product/seats_asia.htm

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re: vomit-eating sharks: When I was learning to scuba dive, the instructors told us that if you felt like you were going to puke, to go ahead and get in the water and puke there - it attracts the fish.

Steve Hendrix: Those crazy diving instructors! Captain Deiner informs me that this is the LAST vomit comment.

(Does is matter what you had for breakfast?)

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Alexandria, Va: Would you whether Poland has decent weather this time of year? We are thinkin of a week trip there in October or November. Thanks.

Gary Lee: On average, I'd say, this time of year it tends to be ten degrees F cooler than on the East Coast of the U.S. It might be nippy at night but not freezing. Go for it!

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Hasidic Buses?: Hi Cindy:

thanks so much for your article on Chinatown buses--I had been wary of them every since Marc Fisher laughed off the lousy driving of a bus he took.

I haven't heard of Hasidic buses--do men and women have to sit separately? What's the deal with them?

Cindy Loose: No separate seating. Far as I can tell some Hasidic Jews in Brooklyn noticed the success of the bus lines started by Chinese or Chinese Americans, and at least two jumped in the fray.

There is nothing on or in the bus to suggest that someone of a particular religion or ethnic group operates the buses, except maybe the driver might have the earlocks typical of observant Hasids. The religion is totally irrelevent, except for this court battle over territory that was first heard by Hasidic mediators.

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Washington, D.C.: My husband and I are going to New York (Westchester County) for Thanksgiving weekend. I've never been before. We're considering driving, probably leaving Wednesday afternoon. Do you know what traffic is like on that trip? Is this a horrible idea?

John Deiner: Yeah, it's a terrible idea! Well, it's a terrible idea if you leave in the middle of the day with everyone else. If you must go, leave really early in the day or well after rush hour. Otherwise, you will be in a for a very long haul.

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Silver Spring, Md.: My husband and I have never been to the western U.S., save Los Angeles. We were thinking of flying into Salt Lake City and driving to Denver CO through southern WY.

I think mid to late May would be OK - past the most serious snow. We were planning to make a long weekend of the trip - fly in TH, drive F & Sa, spend a couple of days in Denver.

Sound like enough time?

Andrea Sachs: That should definitely be enough time, since, well, there isn't too much to do in Wyoming -- besides take in the scenery and mosey around some. Plus, on some interstates, you can drive 75.

Another nice route is Route 40, which goes through a national forest and Steamboat Springs. You can then swing over to Estes Park, Boulder and finally to Denver.

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Re: Long term insurance and critters: I used access america http://www.accessamerica.com/ when I lived in Bangkok and couldn't recommend them highly enough. They have an american-staffed call-collect nurse line and it was SO reassuring to hear a friendly voice while nursing Buddha's revenge. They even called me back two days later to make sure I was OK!

On the same trip, I did some hiking near Kanchanaburi and came face to face with a 5 ft long komodo dragon! I think he was as surprised as I was...

Steve Hendrix: Thanks for the insurance tip. Is that something that would be economical for two years? My advise is that he just doesn't get sick.

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Arlington, Va: I'll be travelling to California in a few weeks, mainly to go to Disneyland. We have park tickets for 3 of the 4 days we'll be there. For the fourth day, I was wondering if there are any bus trips you could recommend, say to Hollywood or another fairly close destination? We won't have a car while we are there so the trips would have to be departing from somewhere close to the Disneyland Hotel. I would like to explore a bit away from Disneyland since I am not likely to get out to CA again for a while. The Disney web site was not a help; I suppose understandably since they would rather you would stay on Disney turf as much as possible.

THanks for any suggestions you can offer!

Carol Sottili: Go to this link for a list of bus tours:

http://www.grayline.com/franchise.cfm/action/details/id/84

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Bowie, Md: Hey crew, just got back from a wonderful 10 days in Rome, Florence and Venice...so much vino, SO little time! Anyway, a quick update for everyone: Seems that duty-free stores business is still alive and well. Leaving JFK and Rome, it's the same: You purchase your goods, they're delivered for pick-up as you're boarding in a sealed bag which you're expected to put immediately into your overhead compartment. One word of warning, however, for those transferring in the US to a domestic flight. You CAN'T bring that duty-free sealed bag onto your domestic US flight! Thank goodness I drove to/from JFK!

John Deiner: Thanks for the report, Bowie.

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Washington DC: Two things:

Shipping wine: I've frequently purchased wines in promotional packaging that provides a lot of protection. That is, three bottles in a specially designed wooden box, with inserts to hold it in place. Of course, if you're getting into cases and such... well, if you're willing to pay the duty, you probably don't much mind the shipping cost!

And, shampoo in tupperware: excellent idea, I'll definitely use it. I would add, though, that another reason shampoo/lotion bottle so often leak is that the baggage hold is not pressurized, so the air trapped in the bottle expands at altitude and lets the goo out. Squeeze the air out of the bottle before capping and throwing in the tupperware!

Andrea Sachs: Great advice. Those wine carriers are ideal, and easy.

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Curbside buses: I used to take them a lot between Philly and NYC, until the driver drove on the shoulder of the NJ turnpike to avoid traffic.

I have been on buses (including above) when I am shocked they aren't pulled over.

Cindy Loose:

The sorry thing is that some of these operators might be doing a good job. The message is to do at least a little checking to see if, once you know a little, you know enough.

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Frederick, Md: Funniest critter story for me is when I went to Kenya with a group of people and during a photo safari drive through the Mara, someone dropped their camera lens cap out the van window. The ground was so dry and dusty that the len cap just "sunk" into the dust. The camera owner got out the van and wa lloking for the cap, when all of a sudden the driver yelled "get de hell back in de van!" A large bull elephant was quickly coming our way. The man jumped back the van and we were quickly on our way!

John Deiner: So the cap was lost forever, eh? ALWAYS get out of the way of a large bull elephant.

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Aiea, Hawaii: Do the carryon restrictions concerning fluids and gels also apply to the flight crew? An article by Joe Sharkey in the New York Times indicated that it does. However, last week on an interisland flight from Honolulu to Maui on Hawaiian Airlines, the pilot, or copilot, was observed boarding the walkway with a cup of coffee, in full view of the gate personnel with whom he was speaking. What is the correct interpetation of this rule concerning crew members? Should the pilot/copilot surrendered his drink before boarding the aircraft?

KC Summers: I've got a call in to the TSA to confirm this, Aiea. If I don't hear back by the end of the chat, check back with us next week. Of course, we all know the bottom line is that the rules are erratically enforced, so there are the rules and then there are the de facto rules.

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Critters: Honemooning in a private bungalow in Moorea in 1991, pulled back the blankets to find a gekko on my pillow. He was cute, but not so cute that we wanted him to stick around. We named him Bob and shooed him away. I still wonder how Bob is doing. Also, snorkling alone in Akumal Mexico in 1997, I felt a brush against my leg and thought it was seabrush. Five seconds later I saw a 10 ft barracuda swimming by. I think he just wanted to say hello. Nonetheless, I swam the hell way from there as soon as I could. Didn't name him but I still wonder how he's doing...

John Deiner: I'd guess he's doing swimmingly.

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Annapolis, Md: Thanks for this informative chat! I'm tentatively planning a trip to Switzerland and Rome at the end of October. Is this a bad idea weather-wise? Any tips for getting the cheapest flight at that time of year? I heard recently that you should try to buy your ticket on a Wednesday three weeks prior for the best rates - does that hold water? Thanks in advance.

Gary Lee: Although there is no guarantee on weather, in my experience the temperatures in most of Switzerland and Italy are quite lovely in late October. Again, evenings can be a bit nippy but otherwise it's usually fine. Any decent fare you see around now for that region (say around $600 r/t) go for it. They probably won't go down much further until November 1.

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Silver Spring, Md.: I've been thinking about it, and it seems to me it's perfectly fine for me to sneak toiletries and whatnot onto the plane. I'm being serious. The rules for knives, guns, etc are to exclude items that would be dangerous in anyone's hands. If I sneak on a knife, someone else can take it and attack a pilot, even if I was just sneaking it on because I really like my knives. But if I sneak on a random liquid or gel? Uh, someone can...what...spray a flight attendant in the eye with my nasal spray? Use my blistex to write messages on the bathroom mirror?

KC Summers: Can't fault your logic, SS. But we're trying to set a good example here! We can't exactly advocate sneaking stuff on.

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Hasidic buses: The religion isn't -totally- irrelevant - they don't run Friday evening or Saturday, right? Makes it a little tricky to use them for a weekend trip.

Cindy Loose: You're smarter than me---I never thought of that, and once you brought it up I figured maybe they'd just hire someone outside the fold to drive. But I just checked the sked for Washington Deluxe and by golly their last bus Friday out of D.C. is at 5:05, and they pick up again on Sunday. I don't see how they can get to NY before sundown. Maybe there's some special dispensation about that--as long as you leave before sundown keep on trucking, I don't know.

Fascinating stuff. But weekends still work if you can get out of work at a decent time on Friday.

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Central California: After reading the rattler story: Attention all hikers! Baby rattlers can be even more dangerous then their older brethren. Older rattlers manage their venom. Immature rattlers will pump all they have, which can be as much are more than a strike from a mature snake. Stay away from all rattlers.

John Deiner: Good stuff, CC. And thank you!

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Charge in Euros or Dollars?: The answer is to charge in euros, but the key is to check whether your credit card charges any fees. I did this before going to greece last year - Capital One does not charge any extra fees or conversion charges. Just cal and ask. They are one of the few.

KC Summers: Yep, that's exactly right. If you do your homework regarding credit cards, it's amazing the differences there are among companies in fees and conversion charges. Of course, you've got to balance that info with what they charge in annual percentage rates, etc.

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Louisville, Ky: I'm going to have a 12-hour daytime layover in Vienna (roughly 9 am to 9 pm) en route to Armenia in early November. Never having been to Vienna, I want to eschew a day room and instead take advantage of the opportunity to visit two or three (or more?) of the must-see things in Vienna. I'm thinking Schoenbrun Palace and Opera House for starters. Your thoughts and suggestions? Thanks. BTW, if you ever get a chance to go to Armenia, take it. It's fascinating!

Steve Hendrix: Not bad choices and certainly doable. Most of the attractions of Vienna are grouped within the ring road around the city center, opera house, the excellent graphics museum, the Hofburg Palace, St. Stephen's, the best shopping (do NOT miss the best hot chocolate in the world at Cafe Demmel). The summer palace at Schoenbrun is a mile or two away, but an easy subway ride away.

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Cruise question: I recently just took a trip on Royal Carribean. The staff was amazing. However, we were on one of the largest ships (Explorer of the Seas) and it was almost too big. The staff did their best to make sure everyone got the attention they wanted/needed, but the size of the ship (and therefore the number of passengers) sometimes means you don't get quite the same personalized service you do on a smaller ship. But I loved the cruise line.

Cindy Loose: Thanks for the insight. And it goes back to what I said about differences among lines sometimes being less than variations among ships within a line.

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Little Rock, Ark: Regarding the critter story, does having a very large river rat running over your foot on a DC downtown street around 2AM count?

John Deiner: Well, it does. But we've all had that experience.

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Raleigh, NC: Freaky critter story...my husband and I were floating down the James River in Scottsville on inner tubes. Lots of fun if you haven't tried it! Anyway, he's supremely terrified of snakes. As we floated over a very mild set of rapids, he noticed a snake sunning itself on a rock. It was probably a harmless black snake, but nonetheless, he was moved to jump off his inner tube, step onto my stomach by way of escape, and flee to the shore. After I recovered my breath, I laughed so hard I almost lost it again! Needless to say, we escaped unharmed (aside from my close encounter with my husband's foot).

Steve Hendrix: "Snakes on a Tube"

Nah, doesn't work.

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International Drivers License: Some years ago, the AAA magazine ran a piece on Scotland. A boilerplate inset advised that before driving in Scotland, you should consider getting an AAA international drivers license, because "some local officials may not be fluent in English."

In Scotland, there may be some local officials who PREFER not to speak English, but I'm sure the British Government devoutly hopes that they all CAN.

Cindy Loose: I keep meaning to get an international driver's licence, but procrastinate and so far, no problems. But even within a country some rental car agencies might demand it while the guy next door won't. Someday I'll get caught without a car then be demanding you all rush out and get one.

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Arlington, Va: The Big Island's Queen Kaahumanu Highway (part of state route 19), north of Kailua-Kona's airport, passes through the stomping grounds of a herd of wild donkeys. There are signs that alert drivers to various Donkey Crossings. Due to vacations, honeymoons and work travels several family members visited that area every year for about 5 years and each time someone returned we postulated that these donkeys could not possibly be real. There were wild conspiracy theories and a number of off-color jokes that became part of the family lore.

I finally got my chance to visit Kona and saw the signs for myself...only there was a pack of wild donkeys standing next to it. They were real after all. Several Hawaiians said that seeing them is good luck -- I think they were humoring me.

John Deiner: Great stff, Arl. You know, we get that sign as an entry all the time in our "Sign Here" contest. I don't think we've ever gotten an entry with the actual critters next to it.

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Rockville, Md: My husband and I would like to take a smAll ship cruise of the Norwegian Fjords. We are interested in cruises other Norwegian Coastal Voyages, Princess, etc. We would consider a ship that sails during the day and at night the passengers stay in an inn/hotel. Any suggestions?

Carol Sottili: There seems to be a typo in your question, but I'm guessing you are looking for cruises other than NCV and Princess. Try www.clippercruise.com - a small ship line that offers a Scandinavia itinerary. There's also ferry service - the Hurtigruten Coastal Express (www.hurtigruten.com).

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KC Summers: To the chatter from Hawaii who asked whether airline flight crews are exempt from the liquid and gel bans: Yes, they are exempt, according to the TSA.

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Washington, DC: A friend and I are going to be in LA for one afternoon before we get on our cruise. We're staying in Long Beach. Is it worth it to rent a car for one afternoon to see the "sites" of LA (Chinese theater, Walk of Fame) or should we just hang out in Long Beach? Thoughts?

Andrea Sachs: I love L.A. (really, and I am not saying that just so I can use a Randy Newman reference), but if you have only one day, I would hang in Long Beach. The traffic in L.A. is bad, as you know, and if your time is limited, you are probably better off hanging on the beach, visiting the museums and waterfront, touring a ranch, sunning on the beach (that deserves to be mentioned twice)--just enjoying the SoCal lifestyle. If, however, you have more time--yes, go to Los Angeles!

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Washington, DC: Do you have any information on why there are no direct flights to Spain from the Washington, DC area? There used to be...

Carol Sottili: Spanair used to offer this service, but no longer. I think it's now part of Scandinavian Airlines. There are very few nonstop flights to Europe from Washington, D.C. For a complete list, go to www.mwaa.com and to www.bwiairport.com.

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Washington, D.C.: For the chatter looking for health coverage abroad, you might call the overseas studies departments at universities and see what they use for their students. I know when I studied abroad I had health insurance and a membership in something called International SOS, which was like a call-from-anywhere helpline. I don't remember what the insurance was, but I'm sure someone who works in overseas studies would have some ideas for you.

Steve Hendrix: An excellent idea. Thanks.

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Washington, D.C.: So when I fly to visit my 85 yr old father, I often take frozen packages of home made soups, and dinners. It is a one hour flight, so they stay frozen. Am I now forbidden to carry this aboard?

KC Summers: Pretty much yes, you're forbidden. I asked the TSA about your soup when I was checking about the flight crew exemption, and spokeswoman Amy Kudwa said that while it's a matter of discretion, the screeners probably won't accept frozen soup because as it melts, it becomes a liquid. So if you don't want to run the risk of having to toss out perfectly good food, don't pack it in your carry-on.

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Lexington, Va: I'm pondering a trip to London over Thanksgiving. A check of airfares yesterday runs from $463 round trip (United's daytime flight from Washington to London) to $539 (British Airways) and $515 (Virgin). Is there a chance they'll come down soon, or have oil prices etc. run things up? The last time I went to London, 2002, my fare was around $350 total.

I've also looked into some package deals with hotel and air included, but it seems I would still come in cheaper if I book my air and hotel separately, especially if I choose a modest hotel with the bath down the hall. Anyone else had experience, good or bad, with a package? Thanks.

Cindy Loose: Under $500 is cheap, cheap. Consider that the taxes and airport fees are at about $250. So that means the airline, at the price of $463, is getting $213. That's $106.50 each way. I wouldn't hold my breathe for it to get cheaper than that, especially over a holiday weekend. At that price,they're losing money on the extra gas it takes to carry you and a bag.

Packages can be good and bad, but I'm guessing that if you aren't particular and are willing to share a bath and such, you're first instinct is right: You can do it cheaper yourself. (P.S. I wouldn't say the same thing if you were seeking upper range accomodations, but in this case as you describe it, if you're willing to research the places, go for it. I would add that once you enter the cheaper ranges the chances of the hotel being bad increases, so I'd check the ones I was considering at a place like tripadvisor.com.

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Ellicott City, Md: Critters - I'll make this as short as I can. In 1992 my brother and I were on the Appalachian Trail in Maine. We left a great place called Antlers Campsite in the morning, but as usual I soon fell behind him. After 30 minutes or so I heard something big moving through the undergrowth ahead and to the left. It turned out to be an adult moose, which was running across the trail from left to right. "Pretty cool," I thought to myself. Then a baby moose came running behind the adult - "Really cool," I thought. Then I heard some more noise, and a BIG brown bear came running from the same direction - "Holy ----," is what I thought at that point. It was moving at what seemed to be the speed of a freight train, and it only had eyes for the baby moose. It was only about 50 feet away from me, but it never had any idea I was there. They all crashed off in the undergrowth on the other side of the trail, and I'll never know whether the baby moose got away. As you can imagine, it's something I'll never forget.

John Deiner: Man, you guys spin some great tales -- what cool experiences. Nice job, Ellicott. You had me "baby moose," then it just got better.

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Hasidic Bus: The drivers aren't Hasidic; they can work after sundown on Friday. The monetary transactions just have to take place before sundown Friday.

Cindy Loose: Thanks for that explanation---makes perfect sense. I gotta admire them for following the edicts of their religion even though it must mean financial sacrifice.

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John Deiner: And that, friends, ends this week's jaunt with the Crew. As always, awesome stuff from you guys. Thanks for helping each other as well.

Let's throw out the promotional junque to Washington, D.C., who told us about the hungry, hungry hippo in Botswana. But as a bonus, let's toss out some surprise junque to Silver Spring, who sent in the story about the birds and the sea turtles on Heron Island. You guys can email me at deinerj@washpost.com with your name/address and I'll get it out pronto.

That does it for us...we'll see you all next week.

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