Tuesday, October 3, 2006; 12:00 PM
Calling all foodies! Join us for another edition of What's Cooking , our live online culinary hour with Kim O'Donnel .
A graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education (formerly known as Peter Kump's New York Cooking School), Kim spends much of her time in front of the stove or with her nose in a cookbook.
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Catch up on previous transcripts with the What's Cooking
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Kim O'Donnel: It's a beautiful Indian summer day here in Washington -- picnic-perfect, in fact. I took advantage of late-season tomatoes last night, turning them into a creamy soup that was just crying for a grilled cheese companion. What a fun meal, plus I got to play with my food mill , my favorite new toy. Also in my blog, I asked the question: Are you a tool or a gadget person in the kitchen? Share your thoughts, if the urge strikes you. I'm ready for you...
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Glover Park, Washington, D.C.: I just have one question -- why on earth do people use white pepper? Seriously, the stuff smells like cow dung! I had a recipe that called for it the other day, and could not believe the stench that assaulted my nose on the first sprinkle. I was assured by my best friend and fellow home cook that it was not bad, that that was just the smell. Then why do people put it on FOOD?
Kim O'Donnel: I am not a fan of the white pepp myself. I find it soapy. It's popular in Chinese cooking, French cuisine as well. Who's a fan of white pepper?
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Middle Eastern Fare: Hi Kim,
What is a good simple dessert other then baklava to serve with Middle Eastern fare?
Thanks!
Kim O'Donnel: I think rice pudding is an appropriate ending...pistachio ice cream? Almond cookies...anything with dates...ooh, I'm thinking pistachio cake made with semolina...I have details for that, I believe.
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Arlington, Va.: I decided to try making focaccia for the first time last night. I thought I would put it in the fridge overnight after making the dough and then let it rise a bit before cooking today. I'm a bread novice, but I looked at a bunch of recipes beforehand to get some idea of what to do. One recipe said my dough wouldn't rise if refrigerated overnight -- but it did rise, big time! Is this okay? Should I punch it down and let it rise again outside the fridge before baking? Or did I do it all wrong? Thanks!
Kim O'Donnel: Some doughs really like the overnight rise, others don't. You didn't do anything wrong! Yeah, bring out of fridge, punch down, cover and let it rest for a little while, maybe 30 minutes...or you can punch down and move to pan you'll be using and let it proof in the pan.
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Washington, D.C.: I'm going to a Pick Your Own farm in the next couple weeks and I've really wanted to try making apple sauce. All the recipes I've found online just call for "apples" but I assume that some would be better than others. Any suggestions or tried and true recipes?
Kim O'Donnel: Apple sauce is one of the easiest things to make. Seriously. Peel and core apples (unless you've got a food mill) and put in a medium pot. Add just a few inches of water. Estimate one apple per person. If apples need a little sugar, you can add, but at this time of year, apples are lovely and sweet. Bring up to a boil, turn down heat and cook at a simmer, until desired chunkyness. I like to use a hand-held potato masher to help smooth out the sauce. A little cinnamon is nice. That's it.
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McLean, Va: I adore white pepper and think it adds a mild flavor that hints of pepper to nearly any dish. It is especially good in stews.
Kim O'Donnel: Here's one vote for the white pepp...
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semantics ...: Is a food mill what my mother would call a mouli? Where
do you suggest I get one? I'm hoping for somewhere that
is not Sur la Table gourment ...
Kim O'Donnel: Hmm. Don't know. In french, it's known as a passoire, in Italian, a passa verdura. I need to consult my dictionary. I did buy mine at Sur La Table, but that's not necessary. You can find them online, at sites like cooking.com and amazon.com, some around $30.
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Re: Middle Eastern Dessert: Very simple yummy treat I discovered on a trip to Egypt and Jordan last year and recreated at home. Stuff dates with almonds and cover with chocolate. You can roll them with different toppings -- coconut, chopped nuts, etc -- before they cool. Delicious.
Kim O'Donnel: Great idea. And the Medjool dates I've been eating of late have been so juicy. Thanks!
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Arlington, Va.: Hi Kim --
I am a pastry chef from L'Academie and in preparation for my brother-in-law's wedding this weekend ... I am making them the traditional Mexican wedding cookies.
Where did this tradition come from? And what is the truest form of the recipe? I see so many versions.
Thanks!
Kim O'Donnel: hey there, have you looked at anything from Diana Kennedy? She's the grande dame of Mexican cuisine and I would trust her instincts. I also have a reliable book by Nick Malgieri (you may know of him), whose interests tend to be global and recipes authentic. I am not sure of the origins of the Mexican wedding cookie. Anyone know?
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Heidelberg, Germany: Hi -- during a recent trip to Italy I picked up a large bag of dried porcini mushrooms. I have been using them a lot in my risotto but would love some ideas on other recipes I could use them in. Thanks
Kim O'Donnel: Risotto is a great way to use those mushrooms. I might also use them in stuffing, on top of green beans and almonds, with pasta and goat cheese, as part of a tart...
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Ann Arbor, Mich: Hi - Thanks for taking my question. I'm making fried rice for dinner (using up some old rice in the fridge) and have some firm tofu I'd like to pan fry. Do you have a good light marinade for tofu? Generally I go with something heavy. Maybe just nothing?
I have sesame oil, soy sauce, ginger, rice vinegar - the usual suspects.
Kim O'Donnel: Ann Arbor, ginger is key in my book for marinating tofu. I think your combo is fine. A little heat of chile pepper, perhaps? Also, may I suggest that you cook the tofu separately and then add to rice at end. I have a fried recipe I need to share with you, by the way. Perhaps in the blog this week...
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Chicago; Re Middle Eastern desserts: Anything with rosewater is also good. You could put rosewater in a rice pudding, which would be yummy.
Skewers on P St. used to serve a semolina cake with rosewater that was fab. I haven't been there in years (don't live in DC anymore) so I don't know if they still do, but a similar recipe might be available online.
Kim O'Donnel: Rosewater is a lovely idea for the rice pudding. Nice.
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Silver Spring, Md: Kim,
Last night for Yom Kippur break fast I made a fantastic basil-pesto cream cheese using basil from my garden. I now want to make huge batches to give to people, since I know that basil plant will be gone at the first frost. Question is, I also have a huge LEMON basil plant... would that be as good in the cream cheese? How about my rosemary plant??
Thanks!
Kim O'Donnel: hey Silver, the lemon basil would be great here. Rosemary not so great. It's too strong and won't pesto-ize as readily as the basil. You can try sage, parsely, cilantro...even dill.
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White Pepper Fan: White pepper is key to making cheese fondue whith white cheeses!
Kim O'Donnel: Another white pepp vote -- is this a white pepper pep rally, by chance?
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White Pepper: I used to love to watch Julia and Jaques cooking together on her show. He would grab the black pepper, and she the white. They would offer the other their choice, and then make some joke about why one was better than the other...
Kim O'Donnel: That's right! Thanks for the walk down memory lane...
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White pepper: A spice trader friend says the processing for white pepper
includes soaking in buffalo urine.
I use black pepper.
Kim O'Donnel: Bizarre. I'll be sure to follow up on this little tidbit...
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Calgary, Alberta: It's our thanksgiving this weekend and I need and idea for dessert. I am brining the turkey as per your previous instructions and have the stuffing and sides organized including an amazing carrot broccoli terrine that is a family favourite. It's just perfect with turkey. My husband loves pie but my crust always ends up like shoe leather. What's your favourite thanksgiving dessert? I'd love something with apples...though your pumpking bread pudding was a big hit a few years back.
Kim O'Donnel: Calgary, sounds like you've got much of the feast under control. If you want apples, you shall have apples. What about a cobbler? Perfect Thanksgiving treat. And if you want to add a twist, mix your apples with rosemary and pine nuts for a savory flavory...it's how I like to make my apple pie. Topping could be biscuit-y. Interested? Send e-mail: kim.odonnel@washingtonpost.com and I'll get you fixed up.
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Madison, Wis: What's the secret to fried green tomatoes? I'd never had them before so didn't know what to look for in a recipe, but the one I tried seemed fairly typical--seasoned flour, beaten eggs, cornmeal, then fried til golden--and they were awful! Tasted like nothing but burnt cornmeal. I have a couple more green tomatoes left and would like to try again. Suggestions? Thanks!
Kim O'Donnel: Hey Madison, did you taste the flour? I mean, really taste it raw so you could detect salt and pepper? That's key. Also, add some herbs to that cornmeal. I might try peanut oil -- it has a higher smoking point -- thereby minimizing some of the burnt cornmeal syndrome. You kind of need to deep fry the babies, so a few inches of oil is key as well.
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Richmond, Va: My local Middle Eastern food shop has delish date cookies--they'd be a great dessert; I served them when I had a Lebanese dinner to match the book my bookclub read by a Lebanese author.
Kim O'Donnel: As I get older, I love dates more. I used them in ground lamb this weekend, and they added a lovely sweetness.
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Rosewater...: Just remember that you only need a few drops!
Also, I just went apple picking last weekend, and made some great crisp and apple butter...
Kim O'Donnel: Yes indeed, good tip. Tell us more about your apple butter, please!
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Washington, D.C.: I'm planning to use my food mill for the first time to make a roasted tomato and basil soup this evening, and I'm a little nervous. Do the seeds and skins accumulate and clog the mill? Do you need to clean it out as you go along? I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks!
Kim O'Donnel: Seeds and skins do accumulate but don't really clog things up. I would add liquid gradually to minimize buildup, and yes, you can always stop and clean out if need be. It's really easy to use.
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Extra Porcici's: You could put them in a fritatta or quiche with other veggies and/or cheese. Also, with the weather change, I bet they would add a nice deep flavor to a beef stroganoff...enjoy them!
Kim O'Donnel: Yes, yes! Thanks for the ideas!
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Boston, Mass: I love fall and all the wonderful food memories that come with it! My SO has celiac disease and can't have any wheat products. I would love to make some beef stew for the upcoming chilly months but all the recipes I find call for flour. Can you please help with some suggestions???
Thanks - love the show!
Kim O'Donnel: What about using arrowroot instead? Or a gluten-free flour? There's a great all-purpose gluten-free flour that would work as roux for your stew. It's Bob's Red Mill, I believe.
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Sterling, Va: Food Mill: Go to your local WalMart. They have canning goods. OR, if you can find one, an old fashioned hardware store. They carry all kinds of good stuff.
Kim O'Donnel: Yes indeed; I've also seen them a thrift shops. Thanks, Sterling.
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Washington, DC: Just a comment. I got my very inexpensive food mill at a hardware store while in college. It is a wonderful device to have around for making applesauce, smooth, seedless tomato sauces etc.
Kim O'Donnel: Another idea for hunting down a food mill. Thanks!
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Hope I'm not too late!!: Excellent, excellent, excellent red pepper soup!! Question, can I make it using jarred roasted red peppers?
Kim O'Donnel: If you like the taste of those peppers, sure. I bought myself more red peppers at market this weekend with hope of making another batch and freezing it. Such a goodie that one.
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Porcini: I just spent saturday making sausage: I have an awesome recipe for chicken sausage with dried porcini and brandy!
Kim O'Donnel: Please share. Great use for those porcinis.
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Apple Butter: I got addicted to apple butter at one of my favorite restaurants in Amherst, MA. It was really easy to make--just take some apples (I think I used 7 or 8), cut them up into cubes without peeling or coring, and let them cook in a couple of cups of water or cider until they're really soft and mushy (by then there shouldn't be too much excess water). Put it through a sieve to get out all the skin and seeds, then add some cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves (about a teaspoon or so of each, maybe a bit more cinnamon), a dash of salt, and the juice and rind from one lemon, and cook this on low heat or a crock pot until its the consistency you'd like (this part takes hours--I left the crockpot on overnight). Delicious on muffins, bagels, popovers or anything!
Kim O'Donnel: Excellent tidbit. Many thanks for this, dear.
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Foggy Bottom, Washington, D.C.: God help me: I've been bit by the breadmaking bug. So far, it's definitely been rewarding. Nothing is more comforting and salivation-inducing than the aroma of bread baking.
The question I have is: where can I find specialty flours like rye and pumpernickel? I'd like to get the King Arthur brands, but I've had no luck at the various Whole Foods, Safeways, and Giants that I've been to (I'll note that none of these places had the specialty flours for other brands, either). I'm also seeking out caramel powder/coloring and espresso powder, too. I can find all of these items on Amazon, but I was hoping that there a specialty store in the area.
Kim O'Donnel: Bob's Red Mill and Arrowmills are good brands of specialty flours. I've picked it up at WF, fyi. Espresso powder, too. Caramel coloring? Good question. P.S. Try the khubz (Arab flat bread I wrote about in blog yesterday. Amazing!)
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Food Mill: Does it do a good job replacing a blender/food processor for things like onion soup ? (ie cook the onions, then pass the cooked onion strips through the mill and get a smooth liquidy mix out ?)
Kim O'Donnel: Usually there are 3 different blades, all diff. sizes, depending on what you want to pass through. If it's the onions you want, and not the liquid, you may want to just use a sieve.
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Takoma Park, Md: That apple pie sounds great! Please share with the whole class!
Kim O'Donnel: Apple Pie with Rosemary and Pinenuts , at your service.
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King Arthur: has a website, and you can order pumpernickle flour from them. They also sell a good pumpernickle mix that has the coloring etc -- you still need flour/salt/oil/yeast, but the mix has the important stuff.
Web site: http://shop.bakerscatalogue.com/
Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for adding to this thread...
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Alexandria, Va.: My Organic Market (MOM's) has a large selection of flours. Lots of Bob's Red Mill products and some King Arthur.
Kim O'Donnel: Right on, thanks for adding more good bread fodder...
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apple butter in amherst: I go to school in Amherst (well, Northampton) and miss the apple butter I could get at home in Maryland-- what restaurant are you referring to?
Kim O'Donnel: Where's the original apple butter poster??
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Herndon, Va.: Please help! I've agreed to spend Thanksgiving with my boyfriend's parents in Atlanta. I feel like I should take something for the table. I'm a vegetarian and I always feel more comfortable taking some sort of main dish to add to the table that I know I can eat. However, we'll be driving down the day before Thanksgiving, and it's a 10-hour drive. Can you think of some sort of main dish or appetizer I can take that will withstand the drive?
Thanks!
Kim O'Donnel: Unless you're driving with a cooler that can stay cool for 12 hours, the answer is no. Any chance you can cook the next morning?
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Reston, VA: A vote for kitchen gadgets--they are a -great- way to get kids in the kitchen. My mom had a food mill when I was growing up, and as a treat let me run it, the hand mixer, the hand-crank pasta maker, etc. Now, I get my picky-eater daughter to try new things if she's allowed to push the food processor button, run the countertop rotisserie/toaster oven...On that note, any suggestions for kid-friendly cookbooks? Both meals kids can help with, and menus specifically designed to with kid palettes in mind.
Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for your thoughts, Reston. Re: kid's cooking: I recently wrote about a new title that I bought for my favorite 10-year-old, and recently I heard of a new title coming out this month called Food Adventures, that I'm eager to get my hands on. I'll keep you posted. And kudos to you for getting the kinderlings involved in the kitchen!
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Pumpernickel: I used to make a super pump bread using wheat, white and rye flour - the color came from coffee and molasses.
Kim O'Donnel: Most excellent. Cheers!
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Onion soup and food mill:: Sorry I wasn't clear -- I like a smooth onion soup, pureed to smooth, not with large chunks/strips of onion. That's what I meant in my question, is can the food mill give me that smooth result (because heaping hot onion/wine mix into the blender/food processor is messy and requires multiple rounds to get it all done)
Kim O'Donnel: Yes! Go for it.
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RE: apple butter in amherst: I'm right here. At Judie's on North Pleasant Street. They serve their giant popovers with apple butter if you get it as a side. soooo good.
Kim O'Donnel: I love cyberspace.
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Washington, DC: Hi Kim. I'm making meat loaf tonight, and I want to make it interesting. I have a basic recipe (beef, ketchup, breadcrumbs, egg, and dijon) that I was thinking of adding sauteed onion and finely chopped sundried tomoatoes to. Any other ideas? I think I'll serve it with parmesan mashed red potatoes (with skin) and asparagus.
Kim O'Donnel: You know what would make it really interesting? This actually came up at a dinner conversation last week -- do a combo of beef, pork and veal or any combo thereof. It really makes a difference.
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Southern MD Mom: Hey Kim,
wanted to share this quick and easy fajita recipe w/your chatters:
Tequila-Lime Fajitas
Marinade boneless chicken breasts in one thawed container of Bacardi Margarita Mix (it's in the freezer section) with some cilantro, seasalt and cracked pepper. Let marinade for 2-3 hours in the fridge.
Grill or pan-fry til done.
In the meantime, slice some red/green peppers and onions and pan-fry in some EVOO til tender and slightly brown.
Serve on warm tortillas with sour cream and shredded cheese.
Amazingly tasty and so simple to make!
Kim O'Donnel: Where's the tequila, though, Mom?
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Arlington, VA: Got any good sugar-free cake recipes suitable for b-day cake? If they include chocolate and/or rum, all the better. My diabetic mom is coming to town for her birthday. FYI, I've made her your cranberry pistachio biscotti subbing Splenda for the sugar and it was a big hit. Thanks!
Kim O'Donnel: This is a subject i need to dig into a little bit more. Splenda cakes, anyone?
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Fairfax, Va.: Hi Kim! I love your chats and blog. Could you please tell me an acceptable substitute for alcohol in a recipe? My parents don't drink and I avoid recipes with alcohol in them when they come to visit (despite the fact that alcohol may cook out of something.) Here's a recent recipe that I tried that I'd like to adapt without the alcohol. Thanks for your help!
Honey Pork Chops
1 bone-in pork loin (about 5 pounds)
1/2 cup honey
Salt and pepper
1 cup chicken jus (stock, reduced down to thick, syrupy consistency)
4 tablespoons apple juice
4 teaspoons Calvados (apple brandy)
Directions:
Salt and pepper the pork loin, put it in the oven, uncovered at 375 degrees for 35 to 40 minutes. In the meantime, make a honey glaze by combining honey, apple juice and Calvado over low heat for a minute or two. Remove loin from oven and put glaze on top of it and return to the oven for 10 minutes; let it rest for 10 minutes. Carve two bones per person. Sauce with chicken jus. Serves four.
Kim O'Donnel: Hey Fairfax, I think I'd use apple cider instead of the juice, for a more intense flavor...and perhaps some good vinegar, especially since you're cooking everything down. Even apple cider vinegar would work here.
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Re: Tequila Lime Chicken: If you really need that except zing, add a little tequila - I just call it that b/c it uses the Margarita frozen mix. As we all know, the tequila will cook out so no need to worry about it becoming Tipsy Tequila Lime Chicken, heehee.
Kim O'Donnel: Tipsy Chicken is a fun name. Keep that one for the files!
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veggie thanksgiving: Would freezing and then putting in a cooler be an option?
That's saved my -veggie bacon- several times on a long
trip. I suggest a veggie 'shepherd's pie. Boil lentils until
cooked and 'mash in a bowl'. saute onion and garlic, add
seasoning of choice. Mix in with lentils, cover with
mashed pots and put cook in medium oven until brown on
top. It's great for 'traditional meat and pots' eaters too.
Kim O'Donnel: That's a great idea. This might just work. thanks for chiming in! I really don't want reader to drive down without some kind of cooling action, even during the autumn months. A car is hot inside, no matter the time of year.
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new york, ny: Kim,
Can you please ask the WP producers to make the link to your instructional videos easy to find? Perhaps put it on the front of your blog? It takes me about half an hour to dig out your pumpkin bread pudding recipe every time! thanks.
Kim O'Donnel: Consider it on the to-do list. Will get it on the blog today. Thanks for your interest.
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Re: Meatloaf Tonite: I don't use breadcrumbs. I prefer oatmeal mixed with a little bit of milk so the oats get moistened, then add the ketchup, chopped onions, s/p, a dash of worchestershire and 1 egg....mix well, shape, bake, enjoy.
Kim O'Donnel: Another way to do meatloaf...
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Washington DC: I have a recipe for a hazelnut cake that requires grinding the nuts. I don't have a nut grinder - but would consider buying a reasonably priced one. Any recommendations for a nut grinder or good substitute?
Kim O'Donnel: A coffee grinder, that you use only for nuts and spices...
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Washington, D.C.: Kim- With the arrival of fall I am excited to use fresh, seasonal ingredients. My husband and I don't eat meat and I am trying to pack in as much folic acid and other vitamins into our diet because I am now eating for two. Do you have any suggestions on fall comfort food that packs a lot of nutritional bang? THANKS!
Kim O'Donnel: Winter squash is a nutritional powerhouse, as are those leafy greens, like kale and collards. I'm out of time, but I'll follow up, either next week or in blog. Thanks for checking in.
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Kim O'Donnel: Yikes, it's already time to run. Thanks to all of you for the chatter on everything from apples to white pepper. Take good care, and come see me in blog land . Til next time! Bye.
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