A chat with the Food section staff is a chance for you to ask questions, offer suggestions and share information with other cooks and food lovers. It is a forum for discussion of food trends, ingredients, menus, gadgets and anything else food-related.

Each chat, we will focus on topics from the day's Food section . You can also read the transcripts of past chats . Do you have a question about a particular recipe or a food-related anecdote to share? The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET. Read about the staff of the Food section .

The transcript follows.

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Walter: Hello out there Free Rangers. Off we go again, ready for your questions and comments. Any Trader Joe's fans in the audience?

And speaking of Joe, today we welcome our new Food editor, Joe Yonan. He's a former food and travel writer from the Boston Globe. Now he's all ours.

Our two free books today, for the two most interesting questions, are Stonewll Kitchen Favorites by King, Stott and Gunst and Best 30-Minute Recipe by Cook's Illustrated.

Let the questions roll.

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I'm Chicken of Turkey: I took advantage of a store special last week and bought way too much ground turkey. Anybody want to help me plan a meal around it??

Jane: No problem! If you check out last week's Free Range chat, you'll see a recipe for White Chili that uses 1 1/2 pounds of the stuff. And it's a great dish; you'll gobble it right up. (Sorry; I just wanted to be the first this season to use a cheesy turkey joke.)

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Greenie: Hey, thanks for the article on greens, but I was wondering which you recommend as the most palatable varieties?

Joe: hi, greenie -- thanks for the question! for raw, I love tat soi, because i think it's really versatile. as bonnie wrote in her sidebar explainer today about different greens, it's related to bok choy and a little more bitter than spinach. when it comes to cooked greens, I'm a kale man, all the way. if i had my cookbooks on me (they're in boxes waiting to make the trip from Boston), I'd give you a great recipe for garlicky Tuscan kale w/ white beans, out of paula wolfert's "mediterranean greens and grains." but you can do it easily, i bet: just saute onions and a LOT of garlic in olive oil, add kale, cook 3-4 mins until softened, and then throw in a can of white beans drained of most but not quite all the liquid, and heat to warm.

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Washington, D.C.: Would the substitution of "fake" sugar (ie splenda) in a recipe change its composition? I made tapioca pudding over the weekend and while I followed the directions closely, it did not gel, and was more soup-y than pudding-y (although it did thicken noticeably from when I first took it off the heat, it still did not reach pudding consistency).

Leigh: Splenda and other artificial sweeteners make a special formulation for baking. It is in the baking aisle next to the sugar. On the back it will give ratio substitutions for sugar.

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Bethesda, Md.: Hi foodies, I'm craving pumpkin ravioli. Does anybody have a recipe for me?

Jane: Here's one we published in 1995, and it looks like a keeper. The recipe comes from Andrew Schloss. It calls for homemade pumpkin puree, but if you need to save time, a store-bought version would surely be allowable. At least, I'll never tell.

PUMPKIN RAVIOLI WITH PINE NUTS AND CHEESE

(Makes 48 ravioli, 6 to 8 servings)

FOR THE FILLING:

1 cup pumpkin puree, homemade

1 ounce toasted pine nuts, ground

1/4 cup seasoned bread crumbs

5 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

1 egg, lightly beaten

Pinch of salt

FOR THE DOUGH:

About 2 cups flour

2 teaspoons olive oil

Pinch of salt

3 extra-large eggs

FOR THE SAUCE:

6 tablespoons melted butter

6 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan cheese

For the filling, combine pumpkin puree, pine nuts, bread crumbs, Parmesan, egg and salt in the small bowl of an electric mixer and beat vigorously for 3 minutes, or beat by hand for 8 minutes. Cover and refrigerate while you prepare the pasta dough.

For the dough, using a food processor or a bowl and a wooden spoon, mix 2 cups flour, oil, salt and eggs together until a smooth, stiff dough is developed. Knead vigorously for 5 minutes. Cover and allow to rest for 10 minutes.

Divide the dough into 4 equal pieces. Working with one piece at a time, roll each one with a pasta roller into an 1/8-inch-thick sheet. Cut the sheet of pasta in half and place one of the halves on a lightly floured surface. Place 2 teaspoon-size portions of the filling 2 inches apart from each other along the length of the pasta sheet. Place the other half of the pasta sheet atop the first sheet, pressing it around the mounds of filling. Be careful to push all the air out of the ravioli before sealing the pasta completely around the filling. Using a 2-inch biscuit cutter or a small sharp knife, cut the double-sheet of pasta into separate ravioli. Crimp the edges of the ravioli with the tines of a small fork. Repeat with the remaining pasta and filling. The ravioli can now be held in the refrigerator, covered, on sheet trays that have been liberally dusted with cornmeal, for 24 hours, if desired.

When all of the ravioli are made, boil for 2 to 3 minutes in plenty of rapidly boiling salted water. Drain well and toss with the melted butter and the finely grated cheese. Serve immediately.

Per serving: 420 calories, 16 gm protein, 39 gm carbohydrates, 23 gm fat, 182 mg cholesterol, 11 gm saturated fat, 568 mg sodium

TO MAKE PUMPKIN PUREE FROM A FRESH SQUASH OR PUMPKIN: Bake on a baking sheet in a 400-degree oven for 45 minutes to 1 1/2 hours, depending on its size. The pumpkin or squash should be soft enough that a gentle prod with your finger leaves an indentation. Remove it from the oven and allow it to cool for 30 minutes before handling.

Clean by twisting off the stem and cutting the squash in half with a large knife. Work on a rimmed sheet pan to contain the juices. Scoop out the seeds and threads clinging to them and save for another use. Scoop the flesh from the rind and puree in a food processor, food mill, blender or with a large fork.

A slightly faster method, but one that produces a less flavorful puree, is to cut off the stem end of the vegetable and cut it in half from top to bottom. Scoop out the seeds and threads from the center and cut the shell into large chunks. Peel the chunks with a paring knife or peeler and place in a heavy pot. Add a small amount of water and cook over moderate heat until the pieces start to release liquid. Then raise heat and simmer until the pieces are fork-tender. Excess liquid can be skimmed off.

A small pumpkin, weighing about 2 pounds, will yield approximately 1 pound of pumpkin puree. This will measure just under 2 cups in volume.

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Bethesda, Md.: Excellent article on alternatives to spinach today. Re dandelion, instead of a sweet dressing, try a hot, sweet-sour German dressing with bacon (similar to frisee with lardons). My grandmother used to serve dandelion greens this way in PA and they were fantastic!

Bonnie: Cool. Care to share that recipe? Salad With Warm Dressing is an important food group.

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Rockville, Md. : Interesting story on greens, but why is the cooking teacher not teaching spanokopita? I thought cooked spinach was safe to eat. (And do you have a good recipe for spanokopita, something I love to order in restaurants, but never tried at home?)

Joe: great point, rockville -- it's really a perception thing more than anything else. she's apparently worried about people's skittishness about spinach, even though non-calif spinach has gotten a clean bill of health from the FDA and you're right that cooking spinach makes it safe from e.coli -- but only if it's cooked to 160 degrees for at least 15 seconds, which means more than just a brief saute. i'm going to let jane pick up the recipe part of the answer -- i think she found a good one!

Jane: Here's a recipe from Ami Stern, who (when we wrote a story about her back in 1984) was a private chef. You might say it helped launched her career: She took a pan of this to a potluck, and it won her one of her earliest clients.

SPANAKOPITA

3 10-ounce boxes frozen spinach

1 large onion, finely chopped

1/2 cup olive oil

1 bunch parsley, finely chopped

1 bunch dill, finely chopped

1 bunch scallions, finely chopped

3/4 pound feta cheese

1/2 cup pine nuts

2 teaspoons nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pepper

1 pound phyllo dough

2 sticks melted butter

Cook spinach in water and drain well. Saute chopped onion in oil until tender. Add to spinach. Add parsley, dill and scallions. Mix well. Add crumbled feta cheese and pine nuts. Add seasonings. Mix thoroughly.

Line a 9-by-13-inch glass baking pan or two glass cake pans with phyllo. (Keep remaining phyllo sheets covered with a damp dish towel or they will dry up and crack). Brush phyllo with melted butter, using a pastry brush or fingers. Place another sheet of phyllo on the first and continue until the pan is layered with 6 sheets. Add spinach mixture. Again brush phyllo sheets with butter and layer on top of spinach until there are 6 more sheets. Brush top layer with butter. If you use round pans, fold the sheets and use butter on all the edges. Bake in a 350-degree oven for 40 minutes. Serve as appetizer or main dish.

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Moonbat, Richmond, Va.: Funny you'd ask about Trader Joe's!

I was hoping to post here asking the company to consider opening a branch in Richmond, Virginia! We have the demographics to support it!

Walter: Moonbat, if you go to their Web site, at traderjoes.com, there is a Contact Us that has a pull-down for Location Request. Good Luck.

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Washington, D.C.: I want to make apple sauce -- any particular TYPE of apple better than others?

Bonnie: I like to mix 'em up. Have to pass along this former Staff Favorite, which also invites pears to the party.

Roasted Mashed Apple-Pear Sauce

Makes about 4 cups

The fruit comes out of the oven puffed slightly, steaming profusely and exuding juices sweet as nectar. The resulting mash comes together in a matter of seconds. The tartness of McIntosh apples melds seamlessly with the sweetness of Bosc pear.

Depending on the use of aromatics and arm power, the sauce may be made sweet or savory, smooth or chunky. All of the variations that follow are equally effortless and impressive. Purists may shudder, but swapping maple syrup for sugar quickly became my standard.

8 McIntosh apples, peeled, cored and quartered

4 almost ripe Bosc pears, peeled, cored and quartered

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

1/4 cup sugar

Pinch salt

Place the oven rack in the middle position and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

In a large roasting pan, toss the apples, pears, butter, sugar and salt together. Cover tightly with foil. Roast for 25 minutes, uncovering to stir the fruit once or twice. (If you forget to stir or just get lazy, the sauce will still be okay.)

Uncover the pan and roast for another 5 to 10 minutes, until the fruit feels quite tender when tested with a small, sharp knife.

Remove the pan from the oven and, using a potato masher, mash the fruit to the desired consistency.

The applesauce will keep in a covered jar in the refrigerator for several days.

Per 1/2-cup serving: 180 calories, 1 gm protein, 35 gm carbohydrates, 5 gm fat, 12 mg cholesterol, 3 gm saturated fat, 36 mg sodium, 2 gm dietary fiber

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Crusty baker: Ok, I tried making Jasper White's apple pie last week and the crust was a total disappointment. That could've been my fault. The recipe called for: 2 cups pastry flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 12 tablespoons unsalted butter and 7 tablespoons ice water. I didn't have pastry flour, so I used all purpose. Was that my problem?

Joe: crusty, as a former Bostonian and big jasper fan, i have to also say that he's not exactly known for his baking recipes. (if you have an afternoon to kill, though, check out his pan-roasted lobster recipe; wow!) baking queen leigh may have further thoughts here, but I've spent a lot of time working on pie crusts (whoever said "easy as pie" was a sadist), and i don't think the pastry flour is your issue here. the amount of water might be. i'm always wary of any recipe that flatly states a specific amount of water, because it's all influenced by humidity and the other ingredients, and you need to develop a feel for it. i make pie crust in the food processor, using three-quarters butter and one-quarter shortening, and sprinkle in just enough ice water to pull the dough together. of course, everything should be cold, cold, cold. we could have an entire chat devoted to pie crust!

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Chevy Chase, Md.: We just returned from Italy where we were frequently served arugula salad with toasted walnuts and parmesan cheese tossed with olive oil and vinegar. Delicious. My question relates to the arugula. The leaves were much larger, denser, probably more mature and I would love to know if you have a suggestion for an arugula source here. The arugula I see here at Whole Foods and such has tiny leaves with mostly stems, unfortunately. Any recommendations? Thank you. A salad lover in Chevy Chase

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Forage at the farm markets, or you could try growing your own.

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Ward 4, Washington, D.C.: Dear Food Section,

Please help?! I'm looking for a Mexican grocery store. Not a central American one, an actual Mexican grocery store.

At the moment, I mostly want sugar skulls, but there are a number of sauces that I just can't get in Mt Pleasant, and can only intermittently find at Rodman's.

Thanks!

Walter: Try El Primo Grocery at 5022 Edmonston Rd., in Hyattsville: 301-927-8910.

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TJ MAX: I LOVE trader Joe's, but I'm with you on the black sludge. Do they get discounts on produce, too??

Walter: The black slime was the worst case of produce neglect I'd ever seen.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi - I used panko crumbs for the first time, and while they tasted great, they didn't stick too well. I dipped a tilapia filet in buttermilk, then in the panko, and cooked in a non-stick pan with a bit of olive oil. Any ideas on what I can do so it sticks & gives a better presentation? Thanks!

Bonnie: Gotta press that panko in firmly with the palm of your hand to make sure it sticks. Or maybe do a second round of the coating technique.

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Chevy Chase, Md.: My daughter just learned about healthy eating and wants to "eat the rainbow" everyday. Help! How do I incorporate rainbow foods into her lunchbox? I thought I could get away with PBJ for another 10 years.

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Don't panic. You can keep the peanut butter and just add vegetables and fruits. For vegetables, add carrot and celery sticks, sliced cucumber and blanched broccoli (dump in salted boiling water for 30 seconds, transfer to ice bath, drain and refrigerate for a day or 2). You can send a small green salad. For fruit, the sky's the limit. Try branching out with tropical fruits like mango and papaya. Then there's a wide array of dried fruits from raisins to pineapple. I'm hungry now, got to go hit the fruit bin.

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Blacksburg, Va.: I'm a huge Trader Joe's fan, but unfortunately the closest TJ's to me is in Centreville-- about 4 hours away. I make "pilgrimages" up there every few months when I'm in the area. I think that most folks go to TJ's frequently and only buy a few items, so I get a LOT of looks when I show up with a cartful (or two!) loaded down.

I know it sounds strange to do this, but there are so many great-tasting and healthy foods there that I can't find anywhere else.

Walter: Another happy Joe shopper.

Joe: Blacksburg, don't feel alone. you're not the only one who does this. i haven't been to the one in Georgetown yet, but the boston-area stores get people with overflowing carts every day. and i'mn i'm throwing a paity, i do the same thing, especially for the kinds of snicks i think joe's does best. (have you had the peanut-butter-filled pretzel bites?)

the boston-area stores also are often very poorly laid out, and that adds to the chaos. one in brookline opened with the cashiers pushed all the way up against one wall, with no flow through! that meant that once you paid, you had to BACK UP your cart, apologizing to the 10 people behind you, and try to make your way out of the store! it took them at least six months before they fixed that.

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Falls Church, Va.: What is the difference between flank steak and skirt steak? Thanks in advance.

Bonnie: Well, the biggest difference to me is that you can't find skirt steak at all the places where flank steak is available. A bummer.

Both take marinades well, both are boneless. I think skirt steak's more tender and more flavorful than flank; skirt steak is used in fajitas recipes. You can cut a flank steak the wrong way (with the grain, instead of against it) and end up with stringy stuff.

Is a brief beef anatomy lesson more than you bargained for?

--Flank steak, sometimes called London broil, is cut from the flank underside section. It's flat, has a visible grain.

--Skirt steak is cut from the plate/belly section, meat that was attached near the rib cage or diaphragm. It's kinda belt/fan shaped (fajita = belt), almost like you can tell how it was attached. It's thinner than flank steak.

And as for where I find skirt steak: sometimes Whole Foods Markets, almost always at the butchers in Eastern Market.

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Washington, D.C.: Welcome Joe. I hope that you'll bring some New England flavor to the section (not that you guys don't do a great job).

Joe: thanks! i'm very excited to be here, working with such pros. i hope you like what you see -- and feel free to pass along any suggestions anytime to food@washpost.com.

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West End, D.C.: Great piece on TJ's today, Walter. I was pretty excited to learn that it opened, but I've been shocked at how small and understocked it is. Anyway, I've always dreamed of doing an all-Joe's party.

Walter: Thanks, West End. About the understocked aisles, I've heard the crowds have been picking them clean faster than they can restock.

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Charlotte, N.C.: Good Afternoon! I'm wondering about keeping red meat at room temperature before cooking. I know that standard food safety guidelines recommend taking beef straight from refrigerator to oven/grill/pot/etc, but a friend recently recommended otherwise. He prepared a flank steak that was the most tender I've ever had. He said the secret was keeping it at room temperature for about an hour prior to cooking. He said that most top chefs recommend this method as well. Do you have any thoughts on this?

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Here's a tip from my old chef/instructors-Take the meat out of the refrigerator 25 to 30 minutes before cooking. That's long enough to take the chill off, but not long enough to alarm the food police.

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Rolled Oats: Quick oats takes about a minute to become oatmeal and old fashioned oats takes around five minutes. Yet they look the same in the containers. What accounts for the difference in cooking time?

Jane: Well, to me, they don't really look the same. Place them side by side and you'll see that the quick variety comes in smaller pieces. But I'm no oat expert (even though I eat 'em every morning), so let's turn to the folks at Quaker Oats. Their Web site explains the difference between old-fashioned, quick and instant oats:

"Quaker Old Fashioned Oats are whole oat groats that are rolled to flatten them. They contain all parts of the oat grain including the bran, endosperm and germ portion. Quick Quaker Oats are made the same way but are simply cut into slightly smaller pieces so they cook faster. Instant Quaker Oats use the exact same oats, only they are rolled a little bit thinner and cut finer so that they cook very quickly. Additionally, they have some flavoring ingredients added."

It goes on to say that old-fashioned oats and quick oats are pretty much interchangeable in recipes; the old-fashioned are better when you want the oats to have more of a presence (oatmeal cookies come to mind) and the quick are better when you want the oats to sort of vanish. Don't cook with instant oats; they have other flavors and ingredients added.

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Re: ground turkey: I just made this last night and it was very good. Plus it is very quick and easy to prepare.

From cooking light:

Turkey Tamale Potpie

Filling:

Cooking spray

1 cup chopped onion

3/4 cup chopped red bell pepper

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 pound ground turkey breast

1 tablespoon chili powder

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 (14.5-ounce) can no-salt-added diced tomatoes, undrained

1 (15-ounce) can kidney beans, rinsed and drained

Topping:

1 cup all-purpose flour (about 4 1/2 ounces)

3/4 cup yellow cornmeal

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1 cup low-fat buttermilk

1 large egg, lightly beaten

Preheat oven to 425 .

To prepare filling, heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Coat pan with cooking spray. Add onion, bell pepper, garlic, and turkey; cook 5 minutes or until turkey loses its pink color. Add chili powder, oregano, 1/2 teaspoon salt, tomatoes, and beans; cook 3 minutes. Spoon turkey mixture into an 11 x 7-inch baking dish coated with cooking spray.

To prepare topping, lightly spoon flour into a dry measuring cup; level with a knife. Combine flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and baking soda in a bowl. Combine buttermilk and egg; add to dry ingredients, stirring just until moist. Spread cornmeal mixture evenly over turkey mixture. Bake at 425 for 18 minutes or until topping is golden.

Yield: 6 servings (serving size: 1 3/4 cups)

CALORIES 329(8% from fat); FAT 3g (sat 0.9g,mono 0.5g,poly 0.4g); PROTEIN 27.6g; CHOLESTEROL 67mg; CALCIUM 120mg; SODIUM 705mg; FIBER 6.8g; IRON 2.4mg; CARBOHYDRATE 47.6g

Joe: this looks good! thanks for sharing it...

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Washington, D.C.: Before cranberry season is on us again, can you replace my lost recipe printed in the Post last year for a "bake-sale" sweet made in mini-muffin tins? It had an alliterative name such as Tom Thumbs or Tiny Tims.

Bonnie: If I were giving away the cookbooks today, I'd pronounce you a winner for your good taste! This is from my former Journal newspaper Food editor Jane Mengenhauser, an all-around great human being and one heck of a food historian. I make them every year.

Tiny Tim Cranberry Tarts

24 tarts

These two-bite tarts offer cream cheese pastry, the sweet crunch of topping and a surprise of tartness inside. Never be tempted to put more than three cranberries in each one cup; one berry too many can force a tiny fruit eruption during baking. For some reason, this recipe does not work well in regular-size muffin tins or as a large tart.

For the crust:

8 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

3 ounces cream cheese

1 cup flour

For the filling:

1 egg

3/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 cup (about 2 ounces) chopped walnuts

72 (3 ounces) fresh or frozen cranberries

For the crust: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Have ready a nonstick mini-muffin pan that will accommodate 24 tarts.

In a bowl, using a food processor or your fingertips, combine 8 tablespoons of butter, the cream cheese and flour until a ball of dough forms. The dough should be fairly moist and come together easily.

Cut it into 24 pieces and place each piece into a mini-muffin tin pan. Using your fingertips, press the dough over the bottom and all the way up the sides of each cup.

For the filling: In a bowl using an electric mixer on medium speed, combine the egg, sugar, butter and vanilla and mix well. Stir in the nuts.

Place 3 cranberries in each cup and spread some of the nut mixture over the cranberries, filling each cup so the cranberries are covered.

Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until well browned. Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool slightly. Run the tip of a knife around the edge of each tart to loosen, then slip the tarts out of the pan.

This recipe tested by Bonnie S. Benwick; e-mail questions to food@washpost.com.

Per tart: 119 calories, 2 gm protein, 11 gm carbohydrates, 8 gm fat, 26 mg cholesterol, 4 gm saturated fat, 15 mg sodium, trace dietary fiber

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Cville, Va.: I tried to explain to my date that I wanted desperately to go to Trader Joe's while we were in NoVa. He said it couldn't be that special and because I didn't have an exact location, we didn't go. ("It's probably not worth the trip/gas," he said.)

What could I have done to impress upon him the value of a Trader Joe's? And no, I probably won't take him to NoVa anymore. I felt like I got cheated. (Although I did spend an hour at the Leesburg Outlet.)

Joe: cville, does this bode well or ill for your relationship? i'm no dr. phil, but ...

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Anonymous: I'm So glad that you wrote about Trader Joe's. I've been wondering about this for a long time: I used to live in N. Cali and loved some TJ's products out there. My favorite was the breakfast burrito. The East Coast locations don't have it, only cold, soggy wraps. Any idea why the goods are different??

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Ask your local store manager. When I spoke to TJ representative in the summer, they said the individual managers have control over what they order and should respond to customer requests.

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Whole grain: I've been switching to whole grain foods, but the one area I'm still bleached is flour. I remember reading that you can't - or shouldn't - substitute wheat flour 1 to 1 with white flour. Is that true? If so, what's the ratio?

Are there any other considerations when switching flours? I mainly use flour to make homemade pancakes, and an occasional cake or pizza dough.

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Substituting all the flour is a little like jumping off a culinary cliff. You can try it, but I'm more likely to play it safe and start 1/2 whole wheat/1/2 white. That way you'll get the best of both worlds. As for the liquid to flour ratio, it's all going to depend on what kind of whole wheat flour you use. If you converting recipes you're accustomed to do, play with the liquid adding more if needed to get the batter you expect.

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Leesburg, Va. : Walter Nicholls should have mentioned the great frozen desserts that TJ carries, and the frozen chicken or beef taquitos that every kid loves--they're like the Mexican equivalent of chicken nuggets for family dinner menus.

Walter: Now Leesburg, I did mention the frozen desserts. And now our readers know about your favorite taquitos. Thanks.

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Old Town, Alexandria, Va.: I'm always on the lookout for good Chinese. Does Li Ho deliver? What else is good there? Thanks and love the Worth the Trip.

Bonnie: Hey OTA, I think you're beyond their delivery area. Li Ho has incredibly good Singapore noodles -- kinda their signature dish. Ambiance is not so great there, so think takeout.

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Washington, D.C.: I'm going to visit my Celiac grandmother next weekend and wanted to bring her some gluten-free treats like cookies or something that she usually cannot enjoy. The problem is that I have no idea where to dig up a good recipe or source. Thoughts?

washingtonpost.com: By the Book: Sweet Alternative

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Washington, D.C.: I love me some Trader Joe's. The produce at the 25th and M location doesn't look that bad to me -- but I must admit I haven't actually bought any yet.

But they have insanely good deals on food bars (Clif bars in particular) and SmartWater, so even if I didn't have any other reason to go there, I'd shop for those.

Also they have a trail mix that's just cashews, almonds, dried mango, and ginger, and it's out of this world.

The line gets long but it moves fast.

Walter: And with the good or great there are some truly awful cereals and bad, bad bread.

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Alexandria, Va.: What's the point in using freshly ground salt? With pepper, I understand that this releases the oils and makes for a fresher flavor, but that's not the case with salt ... is it?

Bonnie: Who's calling for it?

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Boone, N.C.: Way off today's topic, but does anyone have a recipe for a terrific lemon bar cookie? I have tried many and some are too "jellied" or too sweet.

Thanks.

Bonnie: Here's one from Nick Malgieri that we ran last year in our cookie issue:

Ultimate Lemon Squares

Makes 24 to 36 bars

8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened, plus additional for the baking dish

1/2 cup confectioners' sugar, plus more for finishing

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 cups flour

4 large eggs

2 cups sugar

1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest

6 tablespoons lemon juice

Set an oven rack on the middle level and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease a 9-by-13-inch baking dish and line it with oversized, buttered parchment paper or aluminum foil.

In a stand mixer on medium speed, beat the butter. Add the confectioners' sugar and vanilla extract and beat until light, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce speed to low and beat in the flour. Pat the dough evenly over the bottom of the prepared baking dish. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until golden and baked through.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk the eggs just enough to break them up. Without overmixing, add in the sugar, then the lemon zest and juice. As soon as the base is baked, pour the lemon topping over it and return the baking dish to the oven. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the topping is set and firm. Transfer to a rack to cool.

When completely cooled, remove by lifting the parchment paper or foil and transfer to a work surface. Cut into 2-inch squares. May be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for several days. Just before serving, dust with confectioners' sugar.

Per serving (based on 36): 126 calories, 1 g protein, 18 g carbohydrates, 6 g fat, 37 mg cholesterol, 3 g saturated fat, 8 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber

Recipe tested by Jill Grisco; e-mail questions to food@washpost.com

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Washington, D.C.: The Total Greek yogurt at Trader Joe's is incredible. Even the fat-free version is extremely rich and creamy. Great for those of us on a diet. I just stir in a spoon of jam and it's a great snack or dessert.

Jane: Isn't Greek yogurt terrific? I wish I'd discovered it years earlier than I did. It's more like sour cream -- you can't believe you're eating yogurt. It's great sprinkled with fresh fruit and/or granola for breakfast.

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Arlington, Va.: Love the chats! I bought cubed butternut squash from Trader Joe's this weekend. Like a kid in a candystore, it was an impulse buy. But I don't know what to do with it. Any ideas? Planning on making ravolis for dinner, could I make the squash with it?

Also, for the ground turkey buyer, what about turkey tacos or turkey burgers?

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Butternut squash-easily one of my favorites. It can the filling for raviolis, but I think you're asking for a side dish. Here's an easy one:

Toss the butternut squash cubes with a little vegetable oil, nutmeg, white pepper and just a pinch of cinnamon and cloves. Transfer to a shallow baking pan and top with a few pats of butter. Cover with aluminum foil and bake at 350 until tender-cooking time depends on the size of cubes. Start checking after 20 minutes but you may need double that.

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Arlington, Va.: My wife and I are considering a kitchen remodel, and we are trying not to get carried away (wish us luck). In terms of appliances, where do you think you get the most bang for the buck? Gas range, fancy hood, double ovens, something else? On top of that, we've never had a microwave and we've always waited for our water to boil... is a microwave a necessity in a modern kitchen?

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Keep the microwave! When I redid my kitchen, I almost didn't make room for the microwave until the contractor pointed out that I was crazy. He was right. His recommendation-a small under-the-cabinet model that left room for double ovens and didn't clutter the countertops. Every time I melt chocolate or heat milk, I say a small thank you.

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Panko...: Egg is a much better binder for panko than buttermilk, which can been thin and watery, especially if you're using skim buttermilk. Using egg should do the trick...

Bonnie: I assumed there were egg issues. Maybe egg substitute?

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Falls Church, Va.: Hi,

Can you recommend any substitute for cinnamon which is in many pastry recipe ? I just don't like the smell of cinnamon (I know weird). Thanks.

Leigh: Many spices that would pair with cinnamon are allspice, clove, nutmeg and cardamom. You could blend a couple of these and use in substitution and still fill the house with a delicious Fall smell.

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Trader Joe's Fan: I definitely count myself as a Trader Joe's fan. I've shopped there for the past seven years, and during that time, the chain has taken huge strides in becoming more of a one-stop-shop. For example, their produce and meat selection is much better now than in the past, and their shelves stock baking supplies (flour, sugar, etc.), spices, and other staples. I can't completely cut out my trips to big supermarkets (Safeway and the like) but now, I can do much more of my shopping at TJ's.

Personally, I love their commitment to introducing quality, unique products on an ongoing basis -- e.g., their Thai Chili Lime Cashews and Marcona almonds are additive, and quite affordable.

Their prices keep bringing me back. Often I get the identical product at TJ's for much less than at Whole Foods and other stores.

Walter: The prices can be pretty amazing when you compare with Whole Foods. But personally, I would rather be in a farmers market any day.

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Spooktacular Foods, D.C.: Halloween's coming!!!! What sort of boo-rific recipes do you have in store for us?

Joe: spooktacular, no offense, but i have to confess, your use of "boo-rific" is the scariest thing i have experienced since i saw the trailer for "texas chainsaw massacre."

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Washington, D.C.: I'm a big Trader Joe's fan, and while I'm happy that they opened near Foggy Bottom, I'd love it if they opened near the red line downtown. Any rumors about any future Trader Joe's? I've heard a lot of people clamoring for a grocery store in Penn Quarter/Chinatown and I'd be thrilled if they opened there.

Walter: The company told me, no new stores are planned for the District through 2007.

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Ground Turkey ideas: Our family likes it in spaghetti sauce. I just made a meatloaf with it for Saturday dinner. If you are not averse to deep frying --- add an egg, finely minced green onion and water chestnuts, season, roll in egg roll wrapper (a bit smaller than a cigar) and fry. Dip in sweet/sour sauce. These are called lumpia.

Joe: thanks for the pointers!

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Baltimore, Md.: I want to make my husband a special dessert for his birthday this weekend. We have eaten Baked Alaska out twice last year and really liked it, my husband is obsessed with pumpkin pie, and I'm obsessed with making ice cream. I found a highly rated Bon Appetit recipe for Baked Alaska (chocolate cake base) and wonder: How do you think it would go with pumpkin ice cream instead of chocolate? And do you have any Baked Alaska making tips?

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: I know there are people who will eat chocolate with anything, but frankly I won't. Chocolate and pumpkin are a bad love connection for me. And, while we're on the subject, I LOVE pumpkin ice cream, so I especially don't want your dessert to be a disaster. Just substitute a yellow cake or even a spice cake for the base on you're in business.

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Washington, D.C.: Is there a shelf life for dried fruit? I just discovered an unopened bag of Trader Joe's apricots, but no use-by date.

Leigh: Dried fruit doesn't have a strict shelf life but if it shows signs of mold or has hardened to a leathery state, you may want to splurge for a new bag.

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Trader Joeville: Meh, it's not all that exciting. The line is huge and it's packed with self-satisfied yuppies. Support your farmers' market and local businesses instead.

Joe: hey, 'ville -- i hear ya. i have yet to settle into a shopping routine here, but in boston, my order was this: farmers' market first (in season, of course -- and a much shorter season than here), then a great pan-asian supermarket for condiments and some veggies, then whole foods for fish, then TJ's for the total yogurt, kashi cereal, and water on sale. i think tj's' has its place, but i would never count on it for everything.

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Crystal City, Va.: Hi, I asked Kim this question last week, and she and her chatters were unable to help me, so I'm hoping you guys will have the answer. I had the yummiest, smoothest, creamiest malanga puree at Cafe Atlantico. Tasted like mashed potatoes, but more flavorful. I picked up a fresh malanga at the supermarket, but I have no clue how to prepare it...should I roast it, boil it, peel it? Any idea what seasonings to use?

Jane: Here's a little malanga lore we published in 1990. I must say, after reading it I wasn't hooked on the idea of malanga puree.....but I'm taking your word for it that it was delicious. As far as a recipe is concerned, we haven't run one. But my guess is that you can follow a recipe for any root-vegetable puree, such as parsnip puree, substituting your malanga. Chatters, can anyone correct me or add anything?

Now here's what we wrote 16 years ago:

"Mirror, mirror on the wall, who's the fairest of them all? Certainly not malanga. This gnarled, elongated, brown-skinned root -- also known as yautia -- looks like a carrot suffering from leprosy. The flesh can be pink, yellow or cream-colored. The flavor suggests potatoes and beans that have been stored in a musty cellar. The firm-fleshed malanga is best cooked by boiling, steaming or deep frying, and it is commonly served in stews and with salty meats and spicy sausages. Its musty flavor may take some getting used to for Americans, but Hispanics seem to love it."

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Arlington, Va.: I saw the note on how long anchovy paste in tubes keeps in the fridge. What about tomato paste? I have one open in the fridge that is at least a year old but just don't use it often enough to use it up! Am I risking our health here?

Also, what is the general rule on other pastes and condiments in the fridge? Ours is chock-full of things used in one recipe and then they sit there, perhaps never to be used again. Not only do they take up space - it's a huge waste when I finally toss them all. Maybe you could do a story sometime on how to make your own, e.g. curry paste.

Bonnie: Maybe more of a quality issue than a health issue, unless you're the type who doesn't get the toothpaste top back on properly. And I'm thinking that you should make a mental note: Reach for that 1.5 or 2 ounces in the tube before you open the next 6-ounce tom paste can.

Our pal Erin will provide a link to some condiment storage info...and we'll take your story idea under advisement!

washingtonpost.com: Shelf Awareness

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Vienna, Va.: Hi Free Range--

I hope you can at least lead me in the right direction on this one. I am considering (strongly considering) going to culinary school. I have been looking at the local programs and I was wondering, in terms of post completion employment, what the difference is between getting a degree (like the Art Institute of Washington offers for 1.5 years and $45K) or just a certificate of completion (like L'Acadime offers for 1 year and $25K). Is it easier to get a job with a degree? Thanks in advance.

Leigh: Ask both institutions if they have some graduates you might contact for their respective experiences. Once you have the basic skills the externship program and networking is going to matter more than the actual degree.

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Burke, Va.: Two questions...first, I made last week's recipe of Salmon with Ginger Butter. Great! Suggestions for using the leftover ginger butter?

Second, I just bought some thick veal chops because they looked so good. But, I have never made veal chops before so any of you or the chatters have recipe suggestions?

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Say a small payer and then try this idea. (Why the small prayer? Veal is so lean that in the time needed to cook the chops it's easy to end up drying them out.)

Sear the chops on both sides, either in a frying pan over direct heat on a grill. Then, on the grill, move to indirect heat-in a 425-degree oven. Cook until done...okay, okay you probably want a time-15 to 20 minutes for 1 1/2-inch chops. When you see juice coming out of the top, pull them right out of the heat.

Add insurance: Make a pan sauce to top the chops and hide all overcooking sins.

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Worth the Trip: Your Worth the Trip selections over the past few months seem to have really gotten away from fine dining options and focused almost exclusively on ethnic food in the suburbs. Was this a conscious decision or does it just depend on what the readers submit?

Bonnie: We're try to get around. Chatters, send us more recommendations! To food@washpost.com, subject line: WTT

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Dried blueberries: I had some killer cookies the other day on the Hood College Campus here in Frederick MD. They were of the chocolate chip dough type but had blueberries and cranberries as part of the "chip" ingredients. I bought dried blue berries and cranberries from the organic market here in Frederick MD and am wondering if I need to rehydrate them at all before using them in cookies. What do you think?

Props, BTW, to the Common Market our local organic grocery. Who needs Trader Joe's (who have refused to put a store in Frederick in spite of a petition we sent them) when the CM has all the goodies AND is always full of fresh delicious locally grown produce?!

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Unless your dried fruit is old, there's no need to rehydrate. In fact rehydrating may make them "slippery." And slippery is not a word you want connected to your cookies.

Think of the chocolate chip dough as a base recipe for any kind of cookie. Want a lemon white chocolate chip number-just make the sugar all white, add the zest of one lemon and sub white chips for the chocolate ones. For a cappuccino-chocolate cookie, try espresso powder and cinammon. Soon you'll be a cookie legend.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Food Staff,

I have a few comments about Trader Joe's. First, I have never encountered black slimy produce there. Actually I find a lot of the produce items to be fresh and cheaper than the regular grocery store. I buy the portabellos, bagged salads, and avocados. Also, for anyone who buys products that they don't like, one can take back to Trader Joe's for a refund or replacement. That is the satisfaction guarantee.

I love the chocolate covered almonds, well priced raw nuts, and frozen tamales. And they have great prices on fruit juices and Pellegrino.

For the butternut squash person, I got this idea from Rachael Ray (I know alot of people don't like her). I add pureed butternut squash to mac and cheese. It sounds really weird, but it makes the dish creamier and tasty.

Walter: Another Joe's fan. But I maintain that the bagged salads are grayer than most.

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Bethesda, Md.: Per your request:

GRANNY'S HOT-BACON DRESSING

2 eggs, lightly (but thoroughly) beaten

1 cup sugar, dissolved in 1/2 cup cold water and 1/2 cup white vinegar

1 lb. bacon, cooked and crumbled, reserving 3 tablespoons drippings

Stir eggs in sugar mixture over low heat (so eggs don't scramble), stirring constantly.

Bring to a roaring boil, then "beat down" with fork. Remove from heat.

Stir in bacon and drippings.

Pour over dandelion greens to "wilt" them

Bonnie: Way to go, Bethesda! It looks heart-stopping.

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Re: dried fruit shelf life: Some dried fruits seem to have an oil coating to prevent sticking - like dried cranberries. I've opened old bags of cranberries and been struck by a strong smell I can only describe as rancid. I always tossed them in those cases.

Leigh: Good advice. Always trust your nose.

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Washington, D.C.: I'm a hardcore Trader Joe's addict. I do almost all my shopping there, except for the rare trip to the regular grocery store or international grocery store for produce.

I'm addicted to the "Over the Moon" milk that is skim but tastes like 2%. The carne asada in the meat section is delish. Their frozen rice in a bag is so handy. And the rosemary marcona almonds are so wonderful I had to stop bringing them to the office, as my boss routinely ate them all!

Oh, and I know this is the food chat, and not the boyd products chat, but I also love their shampoo in the blue bottles, extra-moisturizing body cream, and mango vanilla shaving cream.

If only they would bring back the shelf-stable udon...

Walter: I've heard that the mango shave cream is a GIANT seller for them.

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Trader Joe's: I'm from the area but I went to grad school in the California Bay Area. I fell in love with Trader Joe's there. When I moved back home and saw how TJ was sprouting here I got very excited. But now I feel spoiled. There is so much MORE stuff in the CA stores, and some of my favorites are so far missing (or maybe I'm just going on the wrong days, you know how selection can vary). Maybe that's a good thing, because that sundried tomato, cream cheese, pesto torta was putting some pounds on my waist. So, I go every now and again, but its never quite the same as it was out there. But, maybe I'll give them another try, too.

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Oh, oh, oh, another Californian pining for home. I'm California dreaming too, but at least while you're pining for home you can eat some great dried apricots and munch on lemongrass springrolls. It's better than nothing.

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Washington, D.C.: Walter, nice take on TJ's today--agree with you on produce not being their strong point. One other significant thing to note: while I haven't visited the DC store yet, the staff at their NoVa locations are great. They're not only helpful but friendly, unlike other places where you rarely get eye contact, much less conversation.

One final tip: their dark chocolate covered espresso beans are a great, guilt-free dessert fix!

Walter: There are a number of things I'm interested in trying and I'll move espresso beans to the top of the list. Thanks.

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Washington, D.C.: I would love a pie crust chat! Maybe we could have an all-pie focus around Thanksgiving?? Anyway, I have always wondered what to do with my leftover dough. Tarts? If so, what's a good time/temp combination for little tarts?

Joe: i'm sure you're not alone -- but there's so much talkin' turkey around t-giving, too (excuse me, my alliteration is acting up today), we'd have plenty of other ground to cover. but i bet we could tackle a lot of pie questions!

for leftover crust, my mother used to always roll out the scraps, sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon, and bake (375 until browned -- 15-20 minutes should do it), and we'd scarf down while we were waiting for the pie to cool. if you have enough, of course, you can reform into a ball, flatten into a disk, and freeze for the next time you make pie. i also like to cut simple shapes like stars or even just circles out of scraps and put them on the top of (formerly) single-crust pies as a substitute for lattice...

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Arlington, Va.: When I was up in Boston recently my friend took me to a store called Russos. They supply a lot of local restaurants with produce and have a market on the side. As a result the produce was amazingly fresh (better than whole foods) and the prices were phenomenal(Bulb of fennel for $1, lemons 3 for $1) Is there anything like this in the DC or VA area?

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Try Super H in Fairfax. Amazing produce, more amazing prices and while you there pick up a bag of popped rice cakes-Asia's answer to popcorn. Completely addictive-they put supermarket rice cakes to shame.

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Dupont, D.C.: I know it's late, but tonight's the premiere of "Lost." Any cool ideas for themed dishes?

Joe: something in a hatch?

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Washington, D.C.: I have four large purple pears, on the verge of overripe. Any suggestions to keep them from going to waste?

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Make pear sauce, that will extend the life a bit. Peel and seed, place in a pot with 1/2 cup water. Cook, covered, until the pears are mashable. Mash, add sugar to taste and a pinch of ground ginger.

Serve plain, over ice cream, with yogurt, on top of pancakes, french toast. As a side for pork, duck. I could on but I'll stop.

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No More White Flour: For the poster trying to reduce the use of white flour, King Arthur just released a new cookbook: Whole Grain Baking. Its a book full of muffins, breads, pastries, pies, cookies and breads. Mine came on Monday and I've spent the last 2 days pouring over it. I've been waiting for a book like this for a few years. Many recipes use a mix of flours for a good balance, but a lot of the recipes go all-out whole grains. I can't wait to start baking this weekend. Whole grain cut-out cookies!

Joe: i got to hang out with the king arthur testers for a feature story i wrote for the boston globe a few months back. the book is fantastic. have you tried their white whole wheat flour? this is an amazing product -- basically it's a variety of flour without the bitter taste. it's still the whole grain, so you get all the nutrition, but it works better in baked goods, especially lighter ones.

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TJs Fan in Prince George's County: Sorry for jumping on the bandwagon so late. I am a HUGE fan of Trader Joe's. My family adores the seafood, and specialty foods. It makes trying new ingredients and gourmet ingredients affordable.

I'm just tired of having to schlep all the way to AA or MoCo to get to one.

Please bring one to Prince George's. You could bring one to Lanham (right off the beltway at exit 20) Greenbelt, Bowie, Landover, Hyattville, New Carrollton...

If there was a TJs here, I'd go once a week, instead of once every other month like I do now.

Need a focus group - I volunteer!

Thanks in advance

Walter: Are you with us Trader Joe's?.....Prince George's needs you.

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Washington, D.C.: For the arugula seeker, the farmer who brings a truckload to the Friendship Heights village center each Saturday morning often has remarkably pungent arugula. It's the best!

Jane: Thanks for the report!

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Washington, D.C.: That cookie question reminds me: I am anxious to make a mint chocolate chip cookie. Any ideas for how to make it tasty?

Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Add 3/4 cup cocoa to the regular toll house recipe and then use mint flavored chocolate chips (ghiradelli's makes them as well as others.)

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ground turkey suggestion: I like to make turkey meatballs. Throw in some yogurt, bread crumbs, pesto, egg. The dryness of the meat doesn't matter as much when they're smothered in marinara.

Jane: Great idea, and easy.

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Wine help: Asked Tom but he didn't get to it, hoping you might be able to help... What is the protocol (is there a protocol?) for seeking sommelier assistance in ordering wine matched to a meal? My SO and I generally do our own wine choosing but are going out for a special anniversary in a high-end DC establishment and were thinking about soliciting "expert" assistance. We don't want to insult the server(s) by not asking for their help but wanted to avail ourselves of the establishment's "highly rated" sommelier. Thanks.

Joe: don't worry, you can certainly just mention to the waiter that you'd like the sommelier's help. that's what he's there for, and i can't imagine that the waiter would be insulted by your asking for him.

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Walter: So many Joe's fans with us today. Our winners are Cville, Va. and the selfish date and Rockville, Md. who had a good point with frozen spinach. Send your mailing info to us at food@washpost.com.

We have to close now. We're late to lunch.

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