Getting by in a foreign land without that foreign tongue, New Zealand, San Juan and more.

The Flight Crew
Washington Post Travel Section
Monday, October 23, 2006; 2:00 PM

The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of ... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.

We know you have a choice in online travel forums, and speaking for the entire Flight Crew, we want to thank you for flying with us.


The Post's Flight Crew: (from left to right) John Deiner, Carol Sottili, Steve Hendrix, Anne McDonough, Gary Lee, K.C.
Summers, Cindy Loose, Andrea Sachs.
The Post's Flight Crew: (from left to right) John Deiner, Carol Sottili, Steve Hendrix, Anne McDonough, Gary Lee, K.C. Summers, Cindy Loose, Andrea Sachs.
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The transcript follows.

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Cindy Loose: Welcome to the travel chat on this rather gray fall day. We've got a full house ready to answer as many questions as possible today: Your host Cindy Loose, K.C. Summers and John Deiner, Carol Sottili and Andrea Sachs, Anne McDonough and Steve Hendrix and Gary Lee, still coughing from the bug he picked up in either London or Riga.

What we don't know we'll ask you, plus always feel free to chime in on our answers.

We're also soliciting your experience in getting by in a foreign land without that foreign tongue. Can you ride the Tokyo subways knowing not a word of Japanese? Ever found yourself seriously misunderstood? (I'm thinking here of the time I asked a priest in a Bulgarian monastery about the rooms I heard they rented out, and he thought I was asking to sleep with him--a cheekiness that outraged him.) How do you get by in various parts of the world without the language, and is there anywhere you should hesitate to go?

We'll reward the best anecdote or advice a choice of one of two giveaways from our freebie basket--Either a travel pouch with baby products, or if that's not needed in your household, we have a cushy neck pillow for that next airplane flight.

So fire away your questions.....

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Bethesda, Md.: I need to get tickets to Rome next summer. I know no one has a crystal ball, but at $900+ right now they seem pretty expensive. Any tips for smart shopping? Isn't there a Web site that tries to project where airfares are headed for different destinations?

Cindy Loose: I'm afraid that's what airfares to Rome were costing this summer. If anyone has figured a way to avoid those kinds of European fares in summer, we'd like to hear about it.

If you have the energy one possibility is to fly into a gateway with more competition, like London or Frankfurt, then get to Rome from there. But even the cheapest tickets in summer aren't cheap.

For insights in to what fares might be doing down the road, try www.farecompare.com.

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Va.: I love the chats, and the Sunday section in particular. Weird question for people who make their living leaving DC, but I need your expertise! Want to surprise my husband (when he comes back from duty overseas in December) with one night downtown with no kids. I'm looking for luxurious room, in a good walking neighborhood, near a great restaurant if the hotel restaurant isn't great itself. Any ideas? Budget is probably less than $300. Thanks for any help you can provide!

Gary Lee: Three thoughts. There's a nice B&B near Dupont Circle called Dupont on the Circle that would fit your bill. The Mandarin Oriental would be suitable, too, and they have a special holiday rate for people based in this area. But it's not in a great walking neighborhood. Or try the Monaco, nice boutique hotel downtown with a great restaurant and within walking distance to lots of great museums.

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Anne McDonough: This is from a chatster who chimed in after last week's chat was over (I love the idea of using it for inspiration):

"One of the questions on the chat caught my eye but I was too late to respond to it... The person who asked about finding last minute deals from a starting point. This site (www.11thhourvacations.com), if you click on the Vacations tab, you can just enter a departure city and it will give you all sorts of options. I've never actually booked off of this site, but have used it for inspiration."

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Gaithersburg, Md.: Hi Crew. On a return flight from France, I was stopped by a female security officer so she could check my purse and she made me take off my shoes too. I had already gone through regular security, had presented my boarding pass and was about to board the bus to take us out to the plane. I asked her "why me?" and she said because I was traveling alone (I wasn't, but my friend had already gone through.) Do you know if that's one of the criteria that TSA is looking for? Women traveling alone? I was upset by the whole ordeal...

KC Summers: Welcome to the weird world of airport security, G'burg. Can't explain that one, but we haven't heard that they are singling out women traveling alone. And you dassn't (that's a word, I decree) argue with them -- even asking "Why me?" might cause further unpleasant things to happen.

Anyone else been singled out as a woman traveling solo?

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Baltimore, Md.: I will be finishing up an intense project in January and want to reward myself with a three-day spa trip. I've spent a week in spas in Belize and Mexico, but this time I'd like to keep it simple (and a little cheaper) and fly direct from BWI. I don't need anything "life-affirming," macrobiotic, zen archery (I didn't make that up) that a lot of places offer -- just a pool, peace and quiet, plush bathrobe and lots of great massages. Suggestions?

Cindy Loose: Why fly? With just three days I'd stay closer to home and spend the airfare on an a nice place. You could drive to Hershey, Nemacolin, Greenbrier, a place I wrote about in Northern Virginia whose name isn't coming to me just now but you could find it in our archives by looking under Virginia, or Berkley Springs or a place that opened in Pa. a year ago called St. Joseph Institute. (Haven't checked it out yet, but plan to.) Alternately go to www.spafinder.com and see the many options among different kinds of spas.

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Alexandria, Va.: Why does the amount of tax you pay for a ticket seem to change based on the airlines you fly? An example is from Dullas to Madrid. The difference between Lufthansa and BA is approximately $100.00.

Cindy Loose: A big difference in taxes and fees, flying to and from the exact same airports? That's news to me--and despite what I promised it turns out our airfare guru Carol Sottili isn't here today

Can anyone else shed any light on that? I doesn't sound right to me.

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Swansboro, NC: I'm going to Miami for a wedding over New Year's weekend; flying into FLL. What are some local, independent car rental agencies where I might find a good deal.

John Deiner: Hey, Swans. You can actually find some pretty good deals in Lauderdale that are big-name brands. Let's ask the clicksters if they know any particular indies that are worth checking into, but I've had real good luck using Hotwire.com lately and getting cheapo rates on Hertz or, if I remember correctly, Alamo. Don't know how much the holiday weekend will skew the numbers (or the Orange Bowl in Miami for that matter), but it may be worth checking out Hotwire once you get quotes from the smaller guys.

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Washington, D.C.: I don't need either prize, but I wanted to offer that I found Seoul surprisingly easy to get around with only my Korean-English travel dictionary (I speak no Korean). Most if not all signs were written in Roman alphabet as well as Korean script. We found Koreans to be very, very friendly and very willing to offer assistance, regardless of the (usu. vast) language gap. We could usu get by navigating public transport and city streets with a few catch phrases, a lot of gesturing and some patience.

Cindy Loose: I'm guessing you're good at charades.

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Fairfax, Va.: A friend is flying from Providence to BWI and staying at the Melrose Hotel (PA Ave.) What's the best way to get her to the hotel (Foggy Bottom Metro?) without having to drive out to BWI during the eternal rush hour. Any suggestions on anything fabulous to do the week of Thanksgiving within walking distance of that hotel? Thanks so much.

Gary Lee: She can: 1) take the blue van, which she doesn't have to reserve in advance, cost just under $30; 2) take the bus to the train station, the train to Union Station and a taxi; or 3) call Sterling Transportation, a local company (703-868-4426) which will get her to the hotel for around $35.

You can check out the Kennedy Center, an easy walk from the hotel. The oft-overlooked Renwick Gallery is also nearby; and for dinner, I would check out the Bistro Francaise in Georgetown.

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Washington, D.C.: C For the chatter who is asking about an in-town vacation with her husband... the Hotel Monaco is a great choice. Lots of tasty restaurants in the Penn Quarter area. We did this last year -- even went to minibar for dinner, which is a hoot -- and couldn't recommend it more.

Gary Lee: We agree!

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Anne McDonough: Last week's chat mentioned a great experience a traveler had in Canada on a national holiday...let the record show that Canada Day is July 1 (thanks for pointing that out, poster from Toronto, Canada).

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Suitland, Md.: I'm flying back from Mexico on a Tuesday evening in January through Atlanta Hartsfield, but have only an hour and a half there for the connection to my next flight.

That doesn't seem like enough time to get through customs and security, but the tour company I've booked the trip with says that since it is theoretically possible to get through in time, they won't make any schedule changes.

Do you think it's actually possible to make the connection in time? Do I have any recourse with the tour company if I miss my connecting flight because of their poor scheduling?

Andrea Sachs: If your plane is on time and customs lines are short, you should be fine. But there are so many variables (plus, you are traveling during winter, when planes can be delayed), you could very well miss your connection. You have no recourse (you might want to try again to change your flight, and ask to speak to a manager), but the airline will put you on the next available flight. To hasten the process, figure out when the next flights are leaving for your final destination and be ready to pounce on those at the gate. Also, look up other airlines' flights, as your carrier might have a reciprocal agreement with other carriers. To breeze through customs, be sure you have no produce or other banned products and that all of your paperwork is completely filled out. Also, check Atlanta's airport map and figure out where you need to go after your international flight arrives. Then run!

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Herndon, Va.: I've asked this before, but will try again. My wife and I will be touristing in Argentina for three weeks this coming January. Right now, besides B.A, we plan on going way south to see the glaciers and a side trip to Montevideo. Any other suggestions from previous visitors or the crack Flight Crew staff?

Cindy Loose: I would check out the estancias---even if you don't love horses its fun to experience and old style old Argentine aristocrat country house for a night. Plus, it will take you to the countryside and small towns.

Have you considered Iguazu Falls?

Anyone else have favorite places to visit in Argentina?

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Washington, D.C.: Planning a trip to Greece for probably end of May to mid June...is this a pleasant time to go to Greece? Are there better times of the year?

Gary Lee: It's a great time. The weather may be a bit better later in the summer but the crowds will be much bigger and good hotels much harder to find. Go for it.

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Why fly?: Because it will be January and I want to be in hot weather.

Cindy Loose: Ahhhh, the spa person I presume.

I think you should visit spafinder.com. I'd look in Arizona and Florida. (Lots of good choices in California but that's too far for three days.)

If nothing in those two states quite do it, check to see what's within a non-stop flight off shore---Bermuda and Bahamas might have something that fits. Sounds like great fun.

Does anyone have a specific spa they love in a place that's still warm but not too long a flight time?

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Washington, D.C.: I was alone in Berlin, with only the German knowledge that I was able to teach myself in the three weeks that I had before my trip. But I made it a point to perfectly say excuse me, greet people and ask whether they spoke English. Of course, everyone always answered with "a little" and then spoke beautifully.

One day, I was in the KaDeVe and asked a young clerk in my hideous German with an American accent, "Sprechen zie Anglish?" He turned to me, cocked his head, and in a beautiful Scottish brogue, said, "Yes, I do." We paused a beat and burst out laughing.

Cindy Loose: Great!

As to those people who say they speak a little English then come out with purer more sophisticated English than my own--I'm torn between envy, admiration and pure hatred.

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Binghamton, N.Y.: I have several questions and hope this is the right place to ask them. I am planning on going to meet a man who I've corresponded with online for a long time. He lives in Auckland NZ. I've done this before, but not internationally. I'm quite a big girl and wanted to know if different seats on different planes had larger pitches. I can't afford to buy two seats. I am looking for the cheapest rates and a travel agency locally suggested I buy a one way ticket on a cheap carrier to LAX and then RT from there, as it would be cheaper than flying out of JFK. I have lost almost 300lb since 2004. This will be my first trip in a long time. I am not delusional. I am still a very big person, but I have and still am making great progress. I know I will need a seatbelt extender.

I also want to know, and again, this might not be the right place-if not if you can please direct me- where can I find out about NZ visas. I don't especially want to contact the embassy since they might not tell me about extensions that are available because though they want migrants, they don't want people working on tourist visa. Not my intention, but if all goes well I want to be able to stay longer. My online guy and I have been e-mailing, IMing and calling for over a year. He knows my warts as best as I can reveal them and I know his, some kind of scary, but still mentioned.

I'm not sure what to do with this forum next. Please let me know. Thank you for your time.

Steve Hendrix: Sounds like you're off on quite an adventure! Good luck, and congratulations on a bold move. You've picked a country to branch out internationally (easy, lovely, friendly) but you've picked one of the farthest away. Yes, you might save a bit of money by getting yourself to L.A. and shopping the fare sales to Aukland. But don't do anything too complicated-like change airports--unless you really save a bundle.

You might try www.lovemyseat.com to see how the major carriers on that route (Qantas, Air New Zealand dominate) compare in terms of roominess. You might also try the personal touch when you're ready to book; tell an agent about your concerns and maybe you'll find one who will try to leave the adjacent seat open for you (no guarantees on full flights, of course).

On visas, you don't need one at all for a three-month tourist visit (or rather, you get one at the airport). But have a look at the NZ embassy site for more on how you can apply for extensions.

Also, don't be shy about calling the embassy and talking about these things. They're not going to flag your name or anything and the Kiwis are uniformly friendly and informative. You'll get good information.

Happy travels Bing!

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Los Angeles, Calif.: I can't believe I'm about to say this, because it almost sounds like a Hallmark card and that's so not me, but I've found that a smile goes a really long way when you don't speak the language. Seriously! So does learning to say, "Excuse me" and "I don't speak language x, do you speak English" in the destination's mother tongue.

In about two months (cumulative, over the years) in France, I can't recall a truly rude exchange. Ditto the Czech Republic, Germany, Scandinavia (okay, they speak better English there than most Americans) and Latin America.

But whatever you do, don't speak louder in English.

Cindy Loose: WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT. IF YOU SAY A WORD IN ENGLISH TO A FOREIGNER AND THEY DON'T UNDERSTAND YOU, YOU HAVE TO SHOUT IT AT THEM. OTHERWISE HOW WILL THEY UNDERSTAND?

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Herndon, Va.: I found some flights to St. Thomas for $410 in March (thanks to learning about kayak.com from you all). I've never been to the Carribean. Given that I'll be going in high season, am I going to find a better deal on airfare?

Andrea Sachs: That's a pretty good fare to St. Thomas (though I found $332 on US Airways via Orbitz), especially since you are going when it is high season, when prices soar due to all of those cold dwellers wanting to escape to the warmth. Check on accommodations before you book, though, since prices might be more expensive than you bargained for--though St. Thomas is big enough to have a range of lodging prices.

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Central Calif.: Hi all I have about 8 hrs in San Juan during the day. What should I see and do with that amount of time? Should I hire a taxi for part of that time? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

KC Summers: Hi CC. You're going to have a blast in San Juan -- there is so much to see and do in the old town and the surrounding suburbs. First, give yourself enough time in the old town just to walk around and check out the great shopping, galleries and bars. It's a great walking-around city. Even if you're not into history, be sure to see the del Morro fort -- it's incredible -- and the San Jose cathedral. Also, definitely have lunch or a drink in the bar of El Convento, a former convent that is now a luxurious hotel. It's a fantastic space with a gorgeous inner courtyard.

If you crave beach time you can easily fit a couple of hours in at one of the many beaches near town (called Isla Verde) -- you can hire a taxi or arrange a ride through a hotel concierge. But although beautiful, they're definitely high-risey. You might prefer to hire a driver and explore the wonderful neighborhood of Santurce, with its fantastic hole-in-the-wall restaurants. Also, check out the incredible Museum of Art -- it's world-class. Another favorite museum: Pablo Casals' house in the old town.

Anyone else have tips for CC?

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Glover Park, Washington, D.C.: Hi,

My girlfriend and I are planning a trip to the Caribbean in January and we're trying to decide between St. John and St. Croix. Which would you recommend for a four or five day trip where we would mainly just want to relax on a beach? We also thought Curacao looked really cool but it might not make sense to go there for a short trip because of the time required to get there. Thanks!

Gary Lee: Don't rule Curacao out. It has nice beaches and very good restaurants. It is a long way on the map but when I went last year I left from National in the am, changed in Miami and arrived at my hotel by around 3pm.

Otherwise, I would do St. John's. It has wonderful beaches.

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Hyattsville, Md.: My favorite misunderstanding occurred on my recent trip to Germany with my husband and parents. All of us, save my husband, understand a bit of German. He might have been feeling a bit left out because as we drove past a McDonald's with a big sign advertising breakfast "Fruhstuck," he proudly exclaimed "Fishsticks!" Needless to say, we were chuckling all the rest of the trip!

Cindy Loose: Fruhstuck doesn't mean fishsticks? That explains alot to all those who ordered fishsticks and got eggs in Germany.

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Love the fall colors: Hi Crew,

My husband and I are going to Wintergreen this weekend to take in more of the fall colors. Are there any must see sights or restaurants you can recommend? We plan to drive part of the way on Skyline Drive then will be staying on top of the mountain at Wintergreen resort.

Thanks!

Cindy Loose: We've been Wintergreen deprived. Who out there can help?

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Washington, D.C.: Yes, I was singled out--I was wearing dirty,low jodhpur boots,Levi's jeans and jean jacket, and was flying to Paris, and they singled me out, even though I'd gone through security. When I asked the same question I was asked a question in return, over and over, about whether I had more than $10,000 I was taking out of the country. They searched my carry-on and found nothing interesting. Me, have more than $10,000 cash? Surely they jest!

KC Summers: Hmm. Could it have been the clothes more than your gender? As we (sort of) always say, it pays to dress nicely when flying. It can make a difference in how you're treated. No guarantees, though, obviously.

Any other tales of solo female travelers being singled out?

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Washington, D.C.: Not a language problem of mine, exactly, but a fun story related to language. When my boyfriend and I went to Peru last year for a wedding, I did all the hotel arrangements through e-mail, which was really convenient. I speak decent Spanish so I would often write in Spanish, but many of the hotel staff would insist on writing me back in English. The funniest one was clearly using Babelfish to translate her replies from English to Spanish. Even her last name was translated. That's the only way I can explain getting e-mails from, and this is exactly it, "Patty Hair Walls Head."

Cindy Loose: Fantastic story.

If you want to get a good insight into how good or not good those free translation sites are, type in a familiar song or poem or something like the Star Spangled Banner. You get some very entertaining translations.

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Cambridge, Mass.: I was on a hiking trip in Germany's Black Forest. The innkeeper was gone and I wanted to ask his wife when dinner was served. She spoke no English. We ended up conversing in French!

Cindy Loose: Cool.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Crew!

London in February--go or no go? I note that air fares, hotels, etc are low, but how hampered would we be by winter weather?

Thanks!

Steve Hendrix: Well, if you're interested in a very urban experience, it's actually quite nice there in the winter. No tourists and lots of plays, concerts, etc. It's not usually that cold, but often rainy. It does get dark by about 3 p.m., which is more a mood drag for folks who live there than drop-in tourist. It's not a great time for long days on the heath, but if you looking for city life, it's swell.

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S. Rockville, Md.: Any suggestions for late February activities in Boston/Cambridge? And better way to get there, flying or Amtrak?

How about troubles with the native language -we could barely understand our innkeeper on Kangaroo Island, Carol's favorite hidden gem in Australia. Eventually we found our way not only to our room, but to the restaurant as well.

Anne McDonough: Hey Rockville,

Definitely bring the hats and gloves with you! We need indoor activities: How about the Institute of Contemporary Art (it's set to reopen Dec. 10). If you're into fashion, the MFA will have an exhibit on Paris runway shows through March 18. Continuing the museum theme, how about exploring the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum? I'd definitely fly, unless you're headed there for longer than just a weekend and have the time and inclination to train it. I've been going up at least three times a year the past few years and never paid more than $138 roundtrip for a flight.

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Flight Crew, my 20-year-old sister and I will be going to Italy for a week and a half in early January. We've never been and are -very- excited. Any tips for relatively cheap travel to and within the country? (I know, Italy is not cheap!) We'll probably fly into Rome and check out Florence, Venice and possibly Pompeii. What are the non-touristy must sees?

Gary Lee: To be honest, Italy is so heavily-visited that "non-touristy" venues are hard to come by. But don't fret, the tourist attractions are easily worth the trip. I will stick with Rome must-sees: the Vatican, the Colesium, the shopping area around the Spanish Steps and a tour of the major churches.

Anyone else have tips about the other cities?

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What's up with Xmas airfares?: I live in a small town in the Shenandoah Valley. When I travel, I look at fares from three airports that are 1, 2, or 3 hours' drive away (Roanoke, Richmond, Dulles). I usually have no problem finding something for less than $400 to the Southwest to see my family for the holidays. This year, though, I'd have to drive all the way to Dulles for a $396 fare, which would then involve several stops, extra-long hours on planes, and a hotel room near Dulles for at least one night (which adds at least $100 to the trip cost). I'm seriously considering postponing my holiday visit until after Jan. 1, when fares drop dramatically. Why so expensive these days, and such a change from recent years? Thanks.

Andrea Sachs: Flights are always more expensive for the holidays, and over the past year or so, carriers have streamlined their schedules and cut flights even while more travelers are hitting the skies. After the New Year (around Jan. 3-4), fares go down. If you can go away last minute, you might also want to wait to see if there are any late fares.

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San Diego, Calif.: Any insight into whether other frequent flyer programs will follow U.S. Airways with 18 month point expirations? Also, do you know if points will be dropped in December for non-activity in 18 months or whether it is 18 months from December? U.S. Airways is doing a fine job of alienating travelers by not clearly announcing this change and will surely have many bitter former customers when people discover that their points have been dropped. (I once lost banked points on Delta and haven't set foot on one of their planes since while at the same time become premier on another airline.)

Cindy Loose: Delta in fact just changed their expiration from three years to two years. But as I recommended in this week's Coming and Going column, do something to keep the account active. The easiest and cheapest---order a magazine subscription using miles. You'll waste like 400 miles or so but thereby refresh the account.

As I understand it, the clock has been ticking and when the new policy goes into effect in Dec., if your account as been inactive for two years--in the case of Delta--your miles are gone.

Same for US Airways' new policy as I understand it. But if you're close to having a free ticket or have a number of free tickets but can't go anywhere before the end of Dec., do something--either buy something with points or earn points by getting a credit card or accruing points with a partner by buying something. See their website for al the ways to spend or accrue points to keep an account active. For that matter, you could give some points to charity and refresh the account that way.

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For the spa person...: My husband and I spent nine lovely days at the Aventura Spa Palace (all-inclusive spa resort) near Puerto Aventuras, Mexico. I'm not sure if there are direct flights from BWI to Cancun but it was well worth the trip. Pools, a massive spa and lovely views...

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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Arlington, Va.: My companion and I were walking through a residential park in Genoa and she was complaining about how lost she was because neither of us spoke Italian. The we came across a group that she couldn't resist a small child, a dog and a grandmother and, while they spoke Italian, she spoke her academic Spanish and they got along just fine. It may show that trying anything might actually work.

Cindy Loose: Sweet. Thanks.

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Reston, Va.: Trying to plan a short honeymoon for the very end of May/beginning of June (longer 'moon will take place in the fall). We like hiking and snorkeling and relaxing by the water. Belize or Costa Rica? (And which is likely to be more budget friendly?)

And on a completely different note, I found a fare of $240 from Dulles to West Palm Beach in late March. Should I jump on it, or do you think it'll go down?

KC Summers: I'm a big fan of Belize so I recommend that country wholeheartedly, even though I haven't been to Costa Rica! I'm just such a fan of Belize, and CR is soooo visited. While Belize is definitely on the tourism radar screen now, I don't think it's approached CR proportions. Also, snorkeling in Belize is absolutely world-class. And it's

got the wonderful jungle hikes of CR, but with Mayan ruins. Also, there's nothing in CR to compare with the cool little '50s-era sandy-street town of San Pedro, on Belize's Ambergris Island.

As to your second question, that's not such a hot fare -- it's okay, but not great. You might want to wait for a sale (you're talking JetBlue, right?) or check Southwest, which flies to nearby Fort Lauderdale.

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Highland, Md.: Spending 11 days in Oahu, Big Island, and Maui in early December. One has been to Oahu several times in years past, including a long weekend in Kona; the other has never been. How would you split the days? Advice on best volcano trip, downhill mountain bike ride, whale watching,etc. (helicopter/plane tour worthwhile)? Would greatly appreciate current suggestions for two adults a generation apart...Love the chats, even when I'm not going anywhere!

John Deiner: Hey, Highland. One of THOSE questions! So hard to tell you exactly how to break up your days, because there's so much to do on all the islands. You wouldn't go wrong doing 4/4/3 and take your pick of whatever islands you want to spend extra time on, though personally I'd spend less on Oahu and more on the other two. Even better would be to do just two islands and chill a bit.

Steve has hiked down into Haleakala (on Maui) for an overnight trip and loved it, and I've biked down Haleakala at dawn. (There's a move afoot to get folks to watch the sunset instead of the dawn to cut down on crowds up there.) The ride down was wonderful though. I don't believe you'll hit peak whale watching in Maui, but you may luck out if a bunch come back early. In any case, ask around on the docks to see what the situation is; I went out three times -- on a research vessel, a catamaran and a schooner. The schooner was the best by far. Depending on your budget, the helicopter tours are a great way to see the entire island in 45 minutes, but even better is driving around and hiking and looking for beaches to snorkel on. Bring your own snorkel stuff or rent it when you're there so you always have it on hand.

One thing I'd recommend is to work some down time into your schedule. I think too many people go to Hawaii, often a "trip o' a lifetime," and squeeze too much into it. I know I've done it. Don't feel bad about sitting on a beach or under a palapa sipping a mai tai. You'll absorb the islands so much better that way.

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Arlington, Va.: Reporting back on a question Cindy answered for me a few weeks ago about whether I would need an international driver's license to rent a car in Italy: The car rental agencies do not care if you have one and will rent you a car with a valid U.S. license. If you get pulled over however, the police are allowed to demand a translation of your license and may slap you with an additional fine if you can't present it. My car rental firm said if I were staying for a month it would probably be worth the effort, but not for a week.

And as always, beware of the "or similar" rule when making your reservation. I was excited at the prospect of driving an Alfa 147, was instead given a Ford Focus turbodiesel, which was "similar" in size only.

Cindy Loose: Thanks for the update. I heard from one upset reader, though, that the car rental company was finicky about the international license

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Ashburn, Va.: My husband and I would like to get away (three or four days)....around the beginning of December. I am going to be about 25 weeks pregnant so I would like to limit my time in the air. I was thinking about New Orleans or the Florida Keys (I know these are two very different places)could you recommend other warm weather cities that have a variety of attractions and good food?

Andrea Sachs: Here are some ideas:

Charleston

Santa Fe

San Diego

Miami

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Foggy Bottom, Washington, D.C.: Any reports from New Orleans? Have people found the touristy areas are back in business? Anything to be aware of if traveling there in late December?

Steve Hendrix: Well, I did a piece from there in January (we'll try to link to it) that found the main tourist areas largely up and running. And I was there again in June, and that was even more true. You could be on Bourbon Street on a weekend night saying "Katrin who?" But the problem is in the surrounding neighborhoods. I think things are getting better, but this is still a gravely damaged city and they are having an increasing problem with crime. Of course, that's always been a problem there. But I would not hesitate to do the tourist thing there at all.

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A comment on BWI/baggies: Regarding a letter in yesterday's travel section -- I flew out of BWI on October 12 with a gallon bag (because I saw no point in buying a box of quart size bags for one bag) and I had no problem at all! Of course, it could be because the woman ahead of me had about 6 lighters in her purse and "already took 4 out in the car." They were more interested in her. On the way back, the airport I was flying out of (Little Rock) had quart size bags for free, apparently they acquired them by the case from Wal-Mart. I made sure I kept that quart size bag for future trips. They also didn't notice the 4 oz bottle of contact lens solution that was in my carry-on. So, there's no consistency.

KC Summers: Thanks for that ground-level report. Yes, there's no consistency for sure, but we still wouldn't recommend flouting the one-quart-baggie rule. We've heard lots of stories from travelers who've had their toiletries thrown away because they were in the wrong size bag, or a bag that had a folding top instead of a zipper, etc.

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Flight Crew! Hope you can help with my question. Sad Christmas this year. We have a small family to start with and now, due to illness, our in-laws will not make it to Christmas either. So I'm thinking of going away with my husband and 2 1/2 year old son to somewhere that can give us a more festive holiday. Something 3-4 hours driving distance from metro DC with snow, holiday cheer, a big roaring fireplace and family-friendly activities for a toddler. I'm dreaming of a beautiful mountain lodge! Anything like that around here?

Cindy Loose: Within driving distance I'd say check out New York and Pennsylvania, although neither of those states can guarantee snow at Christmas, unless you go to a ski resort that makes it.

On the other hand, there are lots of mountain resorts with roaring fireplaces and activities. To start, I'd go to the Pa and New York state websites and surf a bit. If that doesn't help get back to us and give us an idea about how much you're thinking of spending

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Central, Va.: This past week my husband and I booked a trip to Fiji, New Zealand, Australia, and Hawaii with Globus. We will be traveling from January 25 through February 21. Has anyone out there been to New Zealand and Australia during that particular time of year and can give me hints on what temperatures, etc., to expect? Thanks so much in advance.

Steve Hendrix: Lovely time of the year at all three places, Central. Shorts and t-shirts all over, with the possible exception of nights in the far south.

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Fredericksburg, Va.: Hi, I am planning a trip with my parents to Cambodia and Thailand for February. I have explored various travel Web sites, and the best deal I got was from Asia.com. I found a multi-city flight departing Richmond, VA to Phnom Penh, to Bangkok, then returning to Richmond for $1137.00. I am saving over $500 a person if I book with Asia.com. Is this a reliable site? And if so, is it worth paying the extra $40 for booking insurance (since my vacation is months away)?

Andrea Sachs: We have not heard of the company. They look like a consolidator. Before I booked, I would try to reach them by phone (I see that they have an address in New Jersey, so you can call information for their number) and ask some questions about the company, past clients, etc. Also, you might want to do a Better Business Bureau check on the company. And, of course, traveler's insurance is always a safe bet.

And . . . if any chatsters have used Asia.com, please write in.

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Washington, D.C.: I'm going to Ljubljana, Slovenia in February. Anyone been? Any tips? Staying there for three days and then taking the train to Venice for the last three days of Carnevale - I've been to Venice before but never for carnival so any special tips there would be appreciated too. Thanks!

Cindy Loose: I've been to Ljubljana and think it's a very charming little city. Unless you are the type who likes to explore every corner of a city and like to do things slowly, if I had three days in Ljubljana I'd include a day trip outside the city. The countryside is lovely. In fact, I adore Slovenia. I'll ask for my story and post it mainly cause I remember a couple good restaurants in Ljub. but can't remember their names off the top of my head.

Anyone have any special tips for Venice Carnevale?

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Christmas lodge - deep creek lake: Go to Deep Creek Lake - we stayed at a brand new huge lodge there this summer. It's right on the water and has enormous fire places, really comfortable rooms/suites and a restaurant or two. Plus, you can ski at Wisp which is on the lake too.

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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Olney, Md.: Many (many, many) years ago I spend a semester in Copenhagen. I was in a shop and the couple in front of me were getting very angry because the shop keeper didn't understand them no matter how loud they spoke English. When they left I tried in my very fractured Danish to talk to the shop keeper to let him know what I wanted. He responded in perfect, very British English. He said that if the couple had even tried to be nice or speak even a word of Danish other than to assume and expect that he would speak English, he would have been happy to help them. His shop became one of my favorites (mainly because he and his wife took pity on a poor American student and gave me a lot of discounts.)

Cindy Loose: Good point. Learning a new language is daunting, but in spare time on a flight anyone can learn please, thank you, where is xxxxx and a few other things.

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KC Summers: Here's the URL for our Puerto Rico story, for the guy who was going to San Juan.

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Vienna, Va.: Do you have any idea when Southwest will publish their schedules and fares for their Dulles routes? Right now, you can only book up until March and we are looking for a flight to Orlando in April. Thanks!

John Deiner: Hey, Vienna. If I'm not mistaken, I believe Southwest books flights about six months in advance, so I'd check in at the end of the month to see if the April fare calendars are posted.

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Fall Color: Flight Crew- This is more of a local question, but I can't find the info on The Post's Web site. Where are some places close by that are good spots to see fall color? My folks are coming into town this weekend because I'm running in the marathon on Sunday. We'd like to do something on Saturday, but Shenandoah is a bit much the day before my race. Any ideas of something closer that might work? Thanks!

Cindy Loose: Not sure what the current leaf situation is, but check out Great Falls. There are parks on both sides of the falls, in Md. and Va.

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RE: New Orleans: I just returned from New Orleans and with the Saints returning to the Super Dome, the French Quarter is fine. (outside the French Quarter is still quite devastating) My companion and I had a great time just being tourists: eating at fabulous restaurants and shopping our little hearts out. More than anything they need tourists to come spend money and generate revenue. It is very easy to negotiate great hotel rates, so I suggest booking over the phone. My advice is "Go!" just remember to pack a bit of patience.

Steve Hendrix: Thanks for the timely report.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Why do airlines overbook? They already have your money, so they won't lose money if you don't show up.

Steve Hendrix: I that's it exactly. It works in their favor.

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Hyattsville, Md.: HELP! I am going to Canada in three weeks. My passport expires in Feb 2007. I know you recommend having 6 months on your passport before international travel. Do you think I will be okay? Also, do you know if I will be able to use my ATM card in Canada (Manitoba)? I've done this in Brazil, Peru and Thailand, and it makes travel much easier without having to worry about bringing cash. Thanks!

Andrea Sachs: You should be fine in Canada, since technically you don't need a passport for the country until the end of the year (for air and sea travel).

Manitoba has ATMs, so depending on your bank, you should have no problem withdrawing money.

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Harrisburg, Pa.: I am in shock as I write this. In over 30 years of travel, I have never had to cancel a hotel reservation once. I always know I have up to a day or two to cancel, and as a loyal Hilton customer, I called today, several weeks ahead of time, to cancel a reservation at a Hilton. Unfortunately, I made a mistake that I never realized: when I called, the hotel stated they were busy with reservations but they told me I could book online. I did. Unfortunately, I now need to change the dates. They tell me that full payment has already been accepted by a company called Net Direct and that they have no association with Net Direct and that I have to call Net Direct to cancel. Net Direct absolutely refuses to let me cancel. When I stated I would rebook at the hotel next door and never book at a Hilton again, they stated that was fine with them, but there is nothing I can do to even get a partial refund.

If there was anything in all that small print that was an uncancellable reservation, I never would have made it, as I know things happen, especially with several elderly relatives, that I hope to never have to cancel but I know sometimes I might, and I knew this particular time was correctly the first time I ever might need to cancel. I guess I made the mistake after all these years of being told I could cancel up to the day before, sometimes even up to the day itself, by Hiltons, that I made the mistake of presuming that was always their policy. If anyone knows anyway how to get money back from Net Direct, I would appreciate it. Meanwhile, I hope this forewarns others about how booking at Hilton means they take your money upfront and won't give it back, so buyer beware. And, if Net Direct doesn't care if this means Hilton loses customers, then I think someone at Hilton should reevaluate their affiliation with Net Direct.

Cindy Loose: I find this interesting, and would like to check it out. If indeed there is no clear warning that the money in nonrefundable, then this is outrageous. Could you please send me an email at loosec@washpost.com so we can correspond about details? thanks.

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Potomac, Md.: To answer the person who had a question about close by holiday festivities - we went to stonewall resort in West Virginia two years ago. Beautiful lodge, great fireplace and outdoor heated pools (that we used at night when it was snowing). I can't recommend it enough.

Cindy Loose: Thanks. That sounds lovely.

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Texas Tech U: Hi Crew,

I am a college student who loves to travel. I was wondering if you had any Web sites that had cheep student travel deals?

KC Summers: Try STA Travel (www.statrave.com), Student Universe (www.studentuniverse.com) and EF Tours (www.eftours.com). There are lots more student sites out there, but those are three we're familiar with and have used. Also, about.com has a good section on student travel.

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Timonium, Md.: Flight Crew:

For the person visiting Argentina, I suggest visiting the provinces of Salta and Jujuy; beautiful landscapes, interesting people and good wine. In Salta, consider staying - the House of Jasmines, owned by the actor Robert Duvall. For detailed information, you should call Vanessa at Limitless Argentina; she gave us wonderful advice and service for our trip in August.

Cindy Loose: Sounds like great advice. Thanks very much.

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For 25 weeks pregnant:: Went to see friends in New Mexico when I was in my 6th month, as my last hurrah before having our first child. GO! if only to eat, eat, eat.

Andrea Sachs: Mom-approved New Mexico!

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Washington, D.C.: Anne!!! Tell me, where oh where did you find such cheap air tickets to Boston?? I can never find cheap ones, and always end up taking the train, which takes forever and is actually pretty expensive (about $230 roundtrip!) Please help a girl out and tell me where you got such cheap tickets. My boyfriend lives in Boston so...

Anne McDonough: Hey DC, I have no loyalty whatsoever when it comes to airlines; whichever has the cheapest flight gets my business--and that usually ends up being AirTran from BWI (sometimes it's Jetblue from Dulles, but more often that not it's the first one). I book these tickets a while in advance (it's often for a meeting or wedding or some other sort of arranged event for which I have a set date) which definitely helps. If I'm flying back on a Monday (often cheaper than Sunday), I take either the so-early-no-one-wants it flight, or the one right after the most popular, which seems to be one that would get folks into the office around 9. Also, when comparing flight prices I take into consideration that on a Sunday I'll have to take Amtrak back from BWI (I always MARC it on a weekday). Also, in addition to expedia, orbitz, etc., I check cheaptickets.com. Good luck!

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Rockville, Md.: Help!

I was looking for fares from WAS to DEN leaving around Dec. 26 and returning on Dec. 30 or 31 and was not finding anything below $440! This is about $100-$125 more than I would normally pay. Should I wait? Have I waited too long already? For a family of four, this is a lot of money to see the cousins and in-law! Any advice you can give me would be appreciated.

Andrea Sachs: You are flying during the MOST expensive times. If you could leave earlier and come back sooner, you might be able to shave off some dollars. But otherwise, unless you can wait last-last minute to see if there are fare sales, you are, sad to say, stuck.

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Washington, D.C.: My uncle wants to go to Denmark after seeing a Rudy Maxa program on the country. Is there enough to see for a week's visit outside of Copenhagen?

Cindy Loose: I'd say so. I'd think you'd want to spend a couple days in Copenhagen, then head out of town, first towards the incredible art museum on the water, forget the name but in the direction of the Karen Blixen house.

The countryside is lovely in the spring-fal months, a bit dark and dreary in winter I'm afraid.

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Disney Bound: We are planning a big family trip to Disney in April and the only thing left to book is our flights. We've got people coming from Detroit and DC. I know it's Spring Break season, but $300 sounds a little ridiculous to me. Southwest won't even let you see fares beyond March! Any idea when Southwest might publish their Spring fares from Dulles or Detroit to Orlando??

John Deiner: Hey, DB. Yeah, $300 is a bit much to Orlando, especially if you book pretty far in advance. Just watch those Southwest sales -- it's been very aggressive this season with discount fares, and usually after the holidays, when everyone is pooped, it tries to unload more seats. Can't be sure that's going to happen again, but the airline does dependably have sales to fill seats at good rates. And Orlando is one of those markets that can be a very good deal. Look for April fares at the end of this month or early November.

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Deep Valley, USA: Trying to plan a Christmas week visit to New Orleans. I'd like to stay in the Garden District but visit French Quarter etc.

The streetcars aren't running up Charles - is there a bus or other facility for getting to the French Quarter?

Steve Hendrix: The St. Charles streetcar line won't be up and running before the end of next year (so they project now). But there is an RTA bus running the same route. See www.norta.com for more info.

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Language: Just getting this in under the wire -- I was on the receiving end of a language experience. I was living in Italy, and an American tourist approached me in a small town and mangled her question so that is sounded like Italian via Alabama. I asked her if English would be easier and she let out the biggest sigh in the world as she admitted to being just exhausted after attempting Italian for two weeks. I helped her with her next two days in the countryside before she moved along.

Cindy Loose: It was nice she was trying. I love the description of Italian via Alabama.

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Christmas Lodge-style: Why not try Snowshoe, WV? With the village on top of the mountains and the high elevation, snow should not be a problem (their ski season usually starts around Thanksgiving). Plus, there are plenty of other winter-type activities (snow-shoeing, tubing) right there at the resort. Granted, price-wise.........well...it's a ski resort.......at Christmas.......

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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Waynesboro, Va.: Howdy Flight Crew,

I've tried this before, so I apologize for re-submitting, but I am eager for advice on taking my soon-to-be teenage daughter on a surprise trip to Paris this January. When should I book? Should I wait till the last minute? I've noticed in past years that the rates/packages look good around December for January/February travel. Also, since we will only have a few days, staying in which arrondisement would most impress my daughter and be centrally located/safe for trips to Eiffel tower, Louvre et al. Thanks for any advice.

Gary Lee: You can find decent low-season fares to Paris already but you may want to wait until November, when many winter fares kick in. Don't wait until the last minute; it won't save you much money. As long as you avoid the 19th, 20th, and 13th arrondisements, you should be okay. But the best would be the 6th, 16th, 7th or 5th.

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Arlington, Va.: My only language misunderstanding came from when I was in Wales and I saw a sheltie that reminded me of my own, and I asked the owner if I could pet it. She looked at me like I was crazy and said no! I then asked if the dog bit, she stared at me again, and then we both realized there had been a miscommunication. She thought I was asking if I could pinch her dog, not pet it! And yes, I did get to pet the dog.

When I lived in Manchester, England, I had a roommate who was from near Newcastle. For about a month, we couldn't understand each other and we had to get a third roommate (who spoke "posher" English) to translate for us.

Cindy Loose: Funny. Thanks.

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St John vs. St. Croix: Don't forget the BVI. Just as easy to get to as St. John, but the BVI are much less touristy (read: no chains, fewer cruise ships) than the USVI.

Gary Lee: Thanks for the good tip.

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Non-touristy Italy: Piemonte (Piedmont) is lovely in autumn - wonderful wineries, vistas, Alba truffle festival, etc. This region sees very few American tourists, though they do get Italian visitors and Europeans from neighboring countries.

Gary Lee: That's a great idea. Thanks.

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RE: Italy: Italy is a tourist attraction so you can get over the "I don't want to do touristy things" before you even go.

Venice is nothing but touristy places, but there is still a ton to see.

As for non-pricey, just look for buses and trains when traveling city to city and be willing to wait and sit in uncomfortable train cars. Best way is to choose, time or money before you even go.

Oh, and be prepared to have your luggage lost! The Italians don't do anything quickly unless it directly benefits them. Though overall a very nice people.

Gary Lee: Agreed, thanks for the tips.

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Washington, D.C.: I am going to the Bahamas for my birthday in the middle of Feb. The direct flights from here are expensive and the non-direct seem to take forever. We can fly to Fort Lauderdale and spend the night there and take Bahamas Air the next day. Two questions: has anyone ever used Bahamas Air and what must we not miss in three days in Nassau? Thanks - love the chats.

Cindy Loose: Sorry we're running out of time to fully answer this week, but let me just ask a quick question---have you checked fares a connection times on Spirit?

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Arlington, Va.: The person planning the trip to Cambodia and Thailand may want to consider pricing round trip to Bangkok and doing a quick round trip from there to PP. There are several small cheap airlines operating in SE Asia. They may want to consider the Thai Airways nonstop from JFK to BKK if they can get a cheap ticket from Richmond to JFK. Thai often has special deals like 2 for 1, but that will be high season to that part of the world so those deals may be harder to come by.

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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Slovenia day trip: Lake Bled! Take a gondola-style boat to the island in the middle, climb the steps to the peak, ring the bell. Walk around the lake and grab a drink at one of the nice cafes overlooking the water.

Cindy Loose: Is that close enough for a day trip? I recall it being a bit further, but you could be right. Lovely place.

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New Mexico: re warm weather destinations

Santa Fe is not warm in the winter!

Cindy Loose: Right o.

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Liquids in Carry-on Clarification: I understood the first relaxation of the rule to allow 4 oz of contact lens solution (and maybe some other items were permitted), but not hair gel, lotion etc. Then, the next modification, as I understood it, was in addition to the 4 oz contact lens solution, you could also have gel, lotion, etc, so long as it all fit in the quart size bag. Is this correct? Last month, I traveled with contact lens solution in my carry-on with no problem, and plan to do so again (leaving lotion, shampoo etc out) but I am just worried that now my contact lens solution needs to be in a ziploc?

KC Summers: Your gels, lotions, etc. not only have to fit into the quart-size baggie but each little container has to be THREE ounces, not four. Also, we've heard from some travelers that if the stuff isn't in its original container, some screeners won't allow it on board (this isn't in the TSA rules, but they do it anyway, and you can't argue with them).

The contact lens solution thing is a gray area: Is it considered medical or cosmetic? Why the TSA doesn't make this clearer, I don't know. As I read their rules (check them at www.tsa.gov), over-the-counter medicinal items can be in larger sizes, but you have to separate it from the 3-oz. stuff. To quote them:

You are not limited in the amount or volume of these above items you may bring in your carry-on baggage. However, if these items are in containers larger than three ounces, please perform the following:

Separate these items from the liquids, gels, and aerosols in your quart-size and zip-top bag.

Declare you have the items to one of our Security Officers at the security checkpoint.

Present these items for additional inspection once reaching the X-ray. These items are subject to additional screening.

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For the Australia traveler: My husband and I were in Australia 2 years ago during that time (Feb-March). We found it unusually cooler than normal. Most of the time we were in shorts but depending on what part of the country you're in you may need pants and a jacket. Tasmania was awesome but much cooler than the main land so pack a little something of everything.

Cindy Loose: Thanks...

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Singled Out: I was singled out for special screening. I was traveling "alone" with my 11-month-old daughter. They told me the airline flagged me for security. (I don't have a suspicious name or anything either)

The unpack-and-patdown routine is bad enough, but even worse when you're trying to corral a squirmy toddler. The security agents weren't at all helpful with her, either.

KC Summers: Thanks -- you don't quite fit our solo woman profile, but this sure fits into the "annoying" category.

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Philadelphia, Pa.: For the Denmark bound: I loved the island of Mon (o with the slash through it - so I guess Moen on our keyboards). Go to Liselund Slotte, and then on down to the chalk cliffs (at least as impressive as Dover, I think). At least dip your toes in the Baltic sea, although it may be too cold for more than that.

If you're going to drive, there are amazing things to see everywhere, even unplanned. Windmill farms, small villages, ice cream stands...

KC Summers: Thanks much, Philly.

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Deep Valley, USA: There's a ton to do in Denmark outside Copenhagen. You can see the real LegoLand, you can take the ferry to Sweden, you can see Odense on the mainland, you can ...there's plenty, but don't go in the dark of winter. Those Danes brood in the winter just like Prince Ham-whats-his-name.

KC Summers: Thanks DV! Love those brooding Danes.

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Gaithersburg, Md.: Hi. It's me; solo traveler woman. I agree, it pays to dress nicely. I was wearing gray slacks, a blouse and a blazer, and fashionable shoes. My friend had my carryon, so the only thing I had was a purse, shawl and a small bag from the airport gift shop. Again, I'm mystified by the whole thing.

KC Summers: Hi STW. We can't figure it either. We can't solve your problem, but we're going to send you something to make you feel better, a consolation prize from our Big Box o' Promotional Junque. Send your contact info to summersk@washpost.com and we'll get something right out.

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Rockville, Md.: My parents have graciously agreed to watch our 2 year old so that my husband and I can have a weekend away in late February before baby #2 arrives. We're trying to pamper ourselves, and price isn't much of an issue, but we want to get out of the city (though within 3 hours driving). Any great ideas?

Cindy Loose: Sorry we couldn't get to every question today, but feel free to resubmit next week, and remind us you're on your second try.

Thanks so much for joining us today. And hey, would the person who told us about the man who spoke English once you were polite to him, unlike the former customers, send me your name and address and tell me whether you'd like me to send the pillow or the baby travel pack.

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Deep Valley, USA: When I spent a few weeks in Italy, I needed a haircut. My only Italian is musical terms, but as it happens, "cut" and "short" and "not too much" are all standard Italian musical terms.

I got my hair cut "corto, ma non troppo". It worked. Honest.

KC Summers: And DV has the last word.

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