Free Range on Food
Holiday Party Recipes
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Wednesday, November 29, 2006; 1:00 PM
A chat with the Food section staff is a chance for you to ask questions, offer suggestions and share information with other cooks and food lovers. It is a forum for discussion of food trends, ingredients, menus, gadgets and anything else food-related.
Each chat, we will focus on topics from the day's Food section. You can also read the transcripts of past chats. Do you have a question about a particular recipe or a food-related anecdote to share? The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET. Read about the staff of the Food section.
The transcript follows.
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Joe: Parties: You know them, you love them. Or do you? Stephanie wrote a great piece today about three party-givers (and three very different styles of parties), but we want to know what's on your entertaining menu these days. What's the best thing you ever served (or ate) at a holiday party? For the two chatters with the most intriguing posts, we have two giveaway books: "Latin Chic: Entertaining with Style and Sass" by Carolina Buia and Isabel Gonzalez, and "Williams-Sonoma Cocktail Parties."
There are questions pouring in, and no time to waste. Let's get this party started.
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Washington, D.C.: Hi Folks: I want to compliment you on the range of articles in today's food section. The parties story is the expected one for this time of the year. But the article about vegan cooking was very interesting to this non vegetarian. The Q&A format gave it an approachable tone that made it a lot more readable to me. And the thoughts of Pam Anderson about eating/not eating red meat were personal and so intriguing. Again, it was the format that made me pick it up and read it this morning. Not sure I want to get all my health info from Ms. Anderson, but I empathized a lot with her difficulties and her friend's.
To me, these kinds of articles give more than lip service to the idea that food is an important part of life. It's not just about the latest trendy vinegar or the best pot to saute in. Thanks and keep 'em coming.
Joe: Glad you're liking what you read!
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D.C.-area: I am having some out of town family members over for dinner next Friday night. Following the advice of someone in your entertaining article and due to several circumstances, I would like to entertain using some prepared food. (i.e. Costco, Whole Foods, etc.) I just don't know where to start. How many dishes should I get? What is a good combination of foods without getting too pricey? There will be 5 adults and 4 children. Thanks.
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: I have diffrent strategies, depending on the store: If I wanted to go to Whole Foods, I might call ahead and have them make a lasagne sized just for crowd, next I go to the salad bar and load up there. For simple hors d'oeuvres, buy marcona almonds (from Spain and they do something magical to them.;pick up some prosciutto or serrano ham and thin Italian breadsticks and wrap the ham around the sticks, leaving some plain for the kids; and then to the olive bar. For dessert, I get bar cookies, an assortment-WF cuts them large so I'd cut them again into small squares. On your way out, pick up some cut up fruit.
For a Wholesale Club: I'd go right to the freezer and pick a nice ravioli that I could cook and sauce myself. Into the refrigerator there for baby greens, etc..-that's my salad. For hors d'oeuvre-raid the freezer again. Desert would be fresh fruit-what looks good, buy; and whatever cake or pie they're featuring that I've gotten to taste. Their seasonal stuff can be surprisingly good but you'll want to make sure.
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Arlington, Va.: Hi, there! Love this chat, and I'd appreciate your input. I'm having an open house for about 25 people on Sunday afternoon (kids included). I've made many sweets already, and I'm mulling what to serve on the savory side. I was thinking a marinated goat cheese spread, crudite and dip, Swedish meatballs, pigs in a blanket for the kids, and maybe some mixed nuts. Does it sound like I have enough? Any suggestions to help me round out the menu?
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Open House, it sounds like you have plenty except for one thing. Adults eat those pigs in a blanket too! If you want, make an adult version. Wrap puff pastry around smoked sausage, slice and bake.
Bonnie: Arl, wouldn't want you to MAKE 1 more thing, but sometimes a platter of lovely smoked whitefish is a nice addition. Did you check out the Green Curry Aioli recipe in today's section? It's a winner.
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Vienna, Va.: Loved the dinner party stories, guys. I am hosting an event in mid December which I am billing as a "holiday" party. I have two random questions. First, my co-host just got back from Jordan, where she fell in love with the pistachio, phyllo and honey pastries they make there. I would like to get a tray for the party, but don't know where to buy them.
Second, can you recommend a book or a resource of some kind for coming up with creative alcoholic drinks for my fiesta? I wouldn't mind having red/ green colored martinis as a nod to Christmas and blue/white colored ones as a nod to Chanukah. We'll probably have about 50 people, so what's the best plan of attack for mixing things in advance... (knew I should have gone to bartending school....)
Thanks in advance!
Jane: For the pastries, I'd try Mediterranean Bakery in Alexandria, not far from Landmark mall -- not a real stretch if you live in Vienna. It's not just a bakery but a food store with a wide range of products, most (but not all) Middle Eastern.
As for the drinks, today's section has some advice for you. Rather than try to supply a big range of mixed drinks, just provide wine and beer, then maybe just one specialty cocktail. The signature martini made by the Beckmans of Falls Church is a good example.
Jane: And here's a very complete book you can consult if need be: "Ultimate Bar Book: The Comprehensive Guide to Over 1,000 Cocktails." The author is Mittie Hellmich and the publisher is Chronicle Books.
Joe: Let me add that if you want visual inspiration for your cocktail-making (and proof that those pomegranates make the ginger martinis look particularly festive), look at the photo gallery connected to that party piece, if you haven't already. It's a gorgeous drink.
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Gaithersburg, Md.: Hi foodies. I'm hoping you and the chatters can help. I'm a newlywed and beginner cook. I have exactly three chicken recipes I rotate during the week and my husband (and me, frankly) are getting sick of them, but I don't want to disappoint him with a recipe that doesn't work. Can you provide me with a sure-fire one to add to my repertoire?
Bonnie: Describe your trio and we'll work around it.
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Herndon, Va.: I've been reading the Post since I could read and 16 years ago I got a recipe from the food section that was wonderful. It was a baked chicken dish with garlic. Through the years I've misplaced the recipe but I would love to make it again for my garlic loving husband. Do you think that you could dig it up for me? I would be eternally grateful -grovel-grovel-
Thanks!
Jane: Herndon, we'll be happy to give it a shot, but you need to give us a little more information! Can you remember any other ingredients? The recipe title? Maybe the approximate amount of garlic? Chicken in what form: whole? whole and cut up? breasts?
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Washington, D.C.: It's a last-ditch effort to use up the leftover turkey! I'm thinking turkey pie, but I don't really know what's involved in actualizing the concept.
I have about a pound of shredded white and dark meat, and two frozen supermarket pie crusts.
What do you recommend for a hearty last meal for this bird?
Bonnie: You could try a quick version of a staff fave recipe I love --
Chicken, Leek and Parsley Pie. It's a top and bottom crust affair, so you're set, pastrywise. You'll have to pre-bake the bottom crust (follow package directions). You could use an 8-inch square ovenproof glass baking dish.
This won't quite take a full pound of meat, so you may be headed for stir-fry, panini or enchiladaville.
Here are ingredients to make the savory pie filling:
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 leeks (white and light green parts), thinly sliced
2 ounces grated cheddar cheese
1 ounce finely grated Parmesan cheese
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard (may substitute Dijon-style)
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 1/4 cups heavy cream
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Beaten egg, to brush the top crust
In a medium skillet over low heat, melt the butter and add the leeks, stirring occasionally, until softened. Stir in the cheddar and Parmesan cheeses and parsley just to combine. Remove from the heat.
Spread half of the leek mixture over the baked pastry. Cover with cooked/shredded turkey, then top with the remaining leek mixture.
In a medium bowl, combine the mustard, cornstarch and cream. Add salt and pepper to taste. Pour over the filling.
Moisten the top of the cooked pastry's exposed edges with beaten egg. Roll out the remaining pie crust and use to cover the pie. Brush top with beaten egg and bake at 400 degrees for 30 to 40 minutes.
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Silver Spring, Md.: Hi -
can you please recommend a meat thermometer? Mine failed me on Thanksgiving - showing the breast meat over 180, but it was perfect and moist, and the dark meat showing done as well, but was undercooked and so unservable. sigh.
are digital ones better?
Joe: Silver Spring, you need a Thermapen! Go to www.thermoworks.com to check it out. It's lightning fast (7 degrees to 300 in about 5 seconds) and has amazing range (-50F to a whopping 572!). It's got a huge readout, and a swiveling pen for the perfect angle. It's pretty expensive -- $85 and up -- but if this is a tool you use a lot, a small price to pay.
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Holiday party: In keeping with the holiday entertaining theme, I'm hosting a Chanukah gathering this year. Was planning on serving mostly apps, but of course want to have the latkes. Given that the traditional way of frying and eating immediately would keep me in the kitchen all evening, is it possible to cook latkes ahead and keep warm in the oven so that they still taste good and fresh? Also, other than crudites, any suggestions for app veggies that are easy to prep ahead that fit in with latkes? Thanks!
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Not a problem. You can cook ahead and reheat. Don't let them get too brown when you cook them. Reheat at 350 until warm, then blot off any excess oil with paper towels before serving. You can even freeze if you need to.
As for extras/app veggies...I don't think this is the time to worry about a square meal. How about sticking with traditional favorites, fish salads, chopped liver and the like-presented as canapes to look more contemporary. Whitefish on pumpernickel rounds, chopped liver on challah squares. You get the idea.
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Silver Spring, Md.: Do you or any of the other posters have some ideas for holiday baking treats that would be good for sending to family (i.e., not pies or cakes or the like)? I'd like to make something sweet (cookies, bars) and something savory (spiced nuts, trail mix).
Thanks!
Jane: I love to make buttery, decadent toffee with a thick coating of chocolate and nuts. It travels very well. For a savory treat, I love spiced or sugared pecans. I make killer trail mix, if I do say so myself, but it's so heavy and costs so much to mail that I don't think it's worth the price of the postage. Weight is always a consideration when sending gifts of food; you don't want the postage to be worth more than what's inside.
washingtonpost.com: Spiced Cranberry Biscotti-in-Jars Mix.
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Are pies freezable?: Hi-
Am making desserts for a buffet dinner Friday, and need to be cooking ahead to get it all done. Can I freeze my cranberry meringue pies? I'll be out of room in the fridge.
Or should I freeze them without the meringue and then add that Friday afternoon?
Or is this a really bad idea?
Leigh: To freeze or not to freeze.... Go with your second idea; freeze the pies without the meringue topping. Not only does meringue pie topping not freeze well, but doing this last touch before serving will give it a freshly made taste.
Joe: Not only are fruit pies freezable, they often turn out better when frozen first. The crust has a chance to brown before getting soggy. For the French Pumpkin Pie that I made for Thanksgiving, I put it in the freezer for a good hour before baking, for that very reason. So freeze away!
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Christmas Cookies!: I'm planning my Christmas cookie baking list and was curious to know when the Post's Food Section will run its cookie/holiday treats issue.
Bonnie: Circle Dec. 13th on your calendar. An extravaganza! plus many cookie-making tips.
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College Park, Md.: Okay, 3 solid pages of ads in the Food Section is way over the top. It's visually displeasing to the reader, and give the impression that the Washington Post can't be bothered to be properly lay out the pages. Please don't allow that configuration to go to print ever again.
Joe: Oh, College Park. If only it were so easy, and if only you knew what we were up against. There are three zoned editions, you see, for Montgomery County, Prince George's County, and Virginia, and sometimes (often, actually), the amount of advertising is vastly different between those editions, and we have to find ways to make the section look good without remaking the whole thing. Not to bore you with this -- we'd rather talk about the food -- but would you rather we had broken up that gorgeous spread of entertaining recipes? I didn't think so.
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Pastaville, PA: Thanks to my husband, we have 11 pounds of pasta in our pantry, mostly penne. Do you have any suggestions for non-tomato sauces for the chubby little tubes? Much obliged.
Joe: Funny you should ask; the other day, after an indulgent Thanksgiving in Maine, I made for visiting friends a very easy penne dish that I remembered from Mark Bittman. Excuse the rough format of the following recipe, off the top of my head!
Put the pasta water on to boil. Then take 1 small butternut squash, peeled and seeded, and run it across a coarse grater. Heat a few tablespoons of butter in a saucepan, add about 1 cup of chicken or vegetable stock and the squash, throw in a few teaspoons of chopped fresh or dried sage, and cook until the squash is tender, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes.
When the pasta is al dente, drain and toss with the squash. The pieces of squash work their way into the middle of the penne, offering a twist on squash-stuffed ravioli.
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To peel or not to peel?: I'm hoping you guys can weigh in with your expert opinions on this matter of great importance:
My mom insists on peeling broccoli stalks when cooking with fresh broccoli. She claims that without peeling the stalks you could cook the broccoli almost forever and they'd never be tender.
I, however, never peel the stalks (unless she's visiting of course) and never really seem to notice a difference.
So what's the "right" thing to do? What do you guys do?
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Keep the knife in the drawer! I love the stalks and I never peel, though I do trim the bottoms.
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Washington, D.C.: Re: the Vietnamese meatballs - I don't like cilantro - how strong is the cilantro taste in these meatballs?
Joe: Oh, no! You're one of the cilantro haters! Do you go to www.ihatecilantro.com, which refers to it as "the most offensive food known to man"? No offense; some of my best friends are cilantro haters. You can definitely taste it in these meatballs, so do yourself a favor, and tone it down with parsley...
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Best Holiday Dishes: Well, my roommate and I try to have a lot of fun with the items at our holiday parties. We share a Dec. 22nd b-day, so our December party celebrates Hanukkah, Winter Solstice, Our Birthdays, Christmas, and Kwanza. One of my favorite tongue-in-cheek recipes from that party is the Hanukkah/Kwanza Mac n Cheese. Some consider Mac n Cheese a traditional Kwanza dish; instead of breadcrumbs we kick it up a notch with Matzo Crackers -- to really make it inclusive.
A pre-Easter favorite: Sugar cookies cut out into Crosses and dusted with cocoa powder for Ash Wednesday.
All of our dishes are served in good fun to great reviews! We are always trying to come up with new ways to surprise our guests!
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: There's nothing like food with a sense of humor!
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Washington, D.C.: Today's Q & A "Where Vegan Meets Decadent" couldn't have been more well-timed. My daughter recently became vegan and I am moving in that direction as well. For the holidays, we're planning a vegan feast for the entire family, so the tips about baking without eggs is perfect! Thank you! And thanks to Isa Chandra Moskowitz for making vegan baking easy and fun!
Leigh: I'm glad you found it useful. Isa does make it fun and demystify the vegan world in an approachable way.
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Chantilly, Va.: I want to try the vegan cupcakes even though I'm not vegan, just semi-vegetarian. Could I substitute milk for soy milk?
Leigh: Working backwards to the cause, but of course. You can use cow juice in place of the soy milk. And if you have soy allergies you can substitute rice or almond milk.
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Vegan baker: Loved Leigh Lambert's Q/A with the vegan baker/author, but I wish you ran more of her recipes. They're great not just for vegans, but for people with lactose intolerance. Any chance Leigh tested any other recipe she could post on this chat?
Leigh: Although I would recommend investing in the book if you do a lot of vegan or allergy sensitive baking, Isa Moskowitz's mentioned that one of her favorites was the S'mores Cupcakes:
S'mores Cupcakes adapted from "Vegan Cupcakes Take Over the World," by Isa Chandra Moskowitz
3/4 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup canola oil
2 tablespoons molasses
1/4 cup soy yogurt
1 1/4 cups soy milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup graham cracker crumbs
Shaved chocolate
Vegan fluffy buttercream frosting listed in the paper without the chocolate sandwich cookies.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a muffin pan with cupcake liners.
Mix the brown sugar, oil, molasses, yogurt, soy milk and vanilla in a large bowl.
Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon and salt into a separate bowl and mix. Add the graham cracker crumbs and mix it up.
Add the dry ingredients to the wet in three batches, mixing well after each addition.
Fill cupcake liners full. Bake for 22 to 25 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center of one comes out clean. Transfer to a cooling rack and let cool completely before decorating.
Frost and top with graham cracker and shaved chocolate.
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Thanksgiving Update: I decided to take one of Giant's precooked meals to my in-laws for Thanksgiving. She really appreciated it. We had a late lunch and it was quite enjoyable. That left my husband and I free to have dinner with a friend who would have been alone otherwise. Thank you for your advice last week. One of the things I was most thankful for was the words and wisdom from this forum each week.
Joe: Not to try to out-thank the thanker, but we wouldn't do what we do without readers like you. Thanks for joining us every week.
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Arlington, Va.: With regard to the best things I've eaten at holiday parties, it's hands-down the freshly-prepared Filipino lumpia that my husband's boss serves every year at her holiday party. She serves them with a traditional sweet and sour sauce. Everyone always raves about them, in large part because they're hot, crispy, and a welcome departure from the room-temperature, uninspired canapes that many of us know to well. They do require some work -- her friend has the dedicated task of staying in the kitchen and frying up fresh batches -- but oh are they divine.
Whether its lumpia or another appetizer, when I'm throwing a party or a guest at one, I'm a big fan of putting effort into one or two things, and doing those things well. People will often remember a party with one great dish more than a party with 15 mediocre offerings. Plus, it typically cuts down on cost and stress for the host to focus on a few dishes.
Thanks for the chats!
Joe: These sound great! And good advice on the tight focus.
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Arlington, Va.: Hi --
I was wondering if you can make the Chocolate-Dipped Grapes dessert recipe that you had in the paper several weeks ago, a day or two in advance?
I don't think we'll have time to do it the day of the party we're hosting.
Thanks for your help.
Joe: Absolutely. These keep beautifully.
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Best holiday food: I ever served was for an office party. Boiled a bunch of new potatoes, split them in half, and scooped out the middle with a melon baller. Then I made 3 stuffings: a curry egg salad thingy, a tzatziki (yogurt/dill/cuce), and a mashed lentil & goat cheese mix. Easy to make in advance, easy to transport, and they disappeared in no time.
Joe: Everybody likes potatoes. This sounds like a blast.
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Favorite holiday dish - Silver Spring: This sounds crazy but the one thing I am forced to bring to every potluck at work and serve at every party at home are "Jelly Meatballs". You know the ones - a jar of grape jelly and a bottle of Heinz Chili sauce heated up with cocktail meatballs. The first time someone told me what I was eating I thought they were kidding - they are so addictive. I even had to buy a crock pot and leave it at work just for them.
Joe: You're right, SS -- this sounds crazy. But sometimes the craziest-sounding foods are the best. I'm immediately tempted to replace your Heinz Chili sauce with Thai sriracha and the grape jelly with blackcurrant jam, but that's just my foodie-ness rearing its ugly head. Again.
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Herndon again:"Jane: Herndon, we'll be happy to give it a shot, but you need to give us a little more information! Can you remember any other ingredients? The recipe title? Maybe the approximate amount of garlic? Chicken in what form: whole? whole and cut up? breasts? "
Sorry about that, Chief. I remember it was chicken breasts, butter, garlic, salt and pepper. It was a baked dish, rather simple. I think the title was something like Chicken in Garlic Sauce; I'm a big fan of garlic so that would've caught my eye.
Jane: I hate to admit defeat, Herndon, but in this case I must. Our archives don't have a recipe for chicken with garlic sauce -- at least not one I could find -- and those ingredients you listed are so common that when I tried to do a search, I came up with nearly 1,000 possibilities. So, I'm sorry. I know what a pain it is to lose a treasured recipe. (That's why I've put all mine into a computer program -- and why I back it up regularly to avoid tragedies.)
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S. Rockville, Md.: Where can I find the recipe for pan-seared scallops with lemon mignonette? I'm serving Roast Rack of Lamb for my New Year's Eve dinner party, and the scallops would work well as an earlier course. Thanks! You rock!
Bonnie: Neema Enriquez tweaked a recipe you can find on epicurious.com.
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Silver Spring, Md.: Hey there! I am having a small holiday get-together for some girlfriends. I plan on just doing appetizers, so no need for a main entree. Here's the menu so far: stuffed mushrooms, tomato spread on baguettes, white chocolate biscotti, and chocolate-peppermint cupcakes. Should I do anything else? Do I have too many dessert-y things? Thanks much!
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: I'm thinking where's the meat and the cheese? Add something as simple as cheese and grapes and sliced beef on garlic toast and suddenly you've got plenty.
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Green Curry Aioli recipe: It has raw eggs in it---is it OK to leave it out unrefrigerated during a party?
Bonnie: Seat the bowl in a larger bowl of crushed ice, and you're set.
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Falls Church, Va.: Just a thought on the cilantro issue with the Vietnamese meatballs: in lieu of cilantro, I'd go for Thai basil rather than parsley if you can find it. Which you can, at any of the Asian megamarts in the VA and MD burbs, and probably at Whole Foods, too.
Joe: Of course! A great idea. Indeed harder to find, but for cilantro-haters, worth hunting down to keep that Southeast Asian flair.
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Anonymous: Hi --
My husband and I are planning to do a kitchen re-model in the next year or two. Although there are some features we already know we want (double ovens -- oh would those have been nice for preparing Thanksgiving dinner!), we still have a very open mind and would appreciate suggestions.
My question is this: what are the things in your kitchen that you couldn't live without, or are definitely worth the splurge? Is a wine fridge really worth it, for example? Or would you put your money into the new pull-out drawer style dishwashers? We would love any ideas, as we want to make sure we spend our money wisely!
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: As a veteran of the kitchen redo, here's the one thing I'd do differently. I'd use granite around the stove and make sure I had a space for rolling doughs, then I would have a corian or corian-like surface everywhere else. My granite's chipping (small chips, but I know they're there)around the sink because I clean a lot of pots. Also, I find myself spending a disproportionate amount of time cleaning and "buffing."
Two things I wish I had room for: a stovetop with four burners and a flat-top griddle in the middle (I have friends who have and I'm pea-green with envy) and a sink for washing poultry and other possible kitchen contaminators.
Bonnie: This could take up an entire chat! Having a refrigerator with glass doors improved the quality of life in our teenage boy household (no standing with the door open, forever looking...) I also like a knife collection holder (removable, for easy cleaning) that's sunk into the countertop. Safe, practical, very handy. Wish I had a sink that accommodated a wide swath of cutting board, since my counterspace is limited.
Joe: I have to weigh in, too -- I share Stephanie's four-burner-plus-griddle envy, but one of my biggest priorities when I redo that outdated little kitchen in the Dupont coop I just bought will be the sink. There's a double sink, and I'd much rather have one big, deep sink so I don't constantly hit things on that divider. I'm thinking soapstone for that and the counters.
Then, a Viking stove like I had in Boston. I thought I was cool with the dinky little one in my new place until I made pasta for the first time last night. The water took ages to boil over that wimpy burner.
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Annapolis, Md.: Favorite appetizer story:
Way back in the early 90's when I was happily single, living in my first condo in DC. Our building had a wine tasting club and it was my turn to host. Feeling quite young and inadequate, I asked a caterer friend for food ideas. Per her directions, I went to Calvert Woodley, purchased a big, beautiful wheel of Brie. I cut it in half, spread pesto in the middle and put it back together. Served at room temperature. Fabulous. The best part of the evening was when the now-tipsy guests began quoting favorite lines from Monty Python movies. That little gathering took away my fear of hosting anything. Now married with kids living in the "country" I never fear opening the doors and having a party.
Love the new look of the Food section!
Bonnie: Food, shmood. You can't go wrong with "NObody expects the Spanish Inquistion."
New look?
Joe: All I have to add is, Nih! And if you think this is a new look, just wait until next year when we incorporate more design changes.
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Cleveland Park, D.C.: I've just bought my first place, and I'm hosting a housewarming/non-specific winter holiday get-together in two weeks and need some advice on the menu. It's a small space and there will be 12-14 people there, so rather than a sit-down dinner it'll be buffet-style, grab-a-seat-where-you-find-one arrangements (fortunately we're a laid-back group!). I'm planning on heavy hors d'oeuvres and was thinking about roasting a leg of lamb and having it sliced for the main piece. Dessert will be bourbon pumpkin pie. Suggestions for other (pork- and seafood-free) dishes? Thanks so much!
Bonnie: CP, maybe a one-pot meal's the way to go, served with big hunks of crusty bread. You wouldn't have to worry about achieving the right doneness for the meat or bother with how to keep it warm. We've run several stews, etc., in years past. Or how about a tagine? This one doubles well, and can be made ahead. Here you go:
Tagine of Lamb With Prunes
6 servings
From Kitty Morse's "Cooking at the Kasbah" (Chronicle Books, 1998), calls for leg of lamb. Morse often substitutes lamb shoulder. "It's bony and fatty. But has more flavor," she says.
The prunes may be replaced with an equal amount of sliced apples, dates, fresh or dried apricots or quince.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon ground ginger
2 pounds leg of lamb, cut into 2-inch pieces
1 onion, finely diced
1 cup chicken stock or broth
8 threads Spanish saffron, crushed
15 sprigs cilantro, tied together with kitchen string
To finish:
1 onion, finely sliced
1 cup pitted prunes
2 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Salt to taste
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or large baking dish over medium-high heat. Add the turmeric, ginger and lamb and cook, stirring, until the meat is coated with spices and lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the diced onion, stock or broth, saffron and cilantro and stir. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the lamb is very tender, 60 to 90 minutes. Remove and discard the cilantro.
To finish: Preheat the oven to 200 degrees. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the lamb to an ovenproof dish, cover and transfer to the oven to keep warm.
Meanwhile, increase the heat under the Dutch oven or baking dish to medium-high and bring the sauce to a simmer. Add the sliced onion, prunes, honey, cinnamon, pepper and salt to taste and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture thickens slightly, 6 to 8 minutes.
Remove the lamb from the oven. Spoon the sauce over the lamb and sprinkle with the sesame seeds. Serve immediately.
Per serving: 408 calories, 33 gm protein, 44 gm carbohydrates, 12 gm fat, 94 mg cholesterol, 3 gm saturated fat, 247 mg sodium, 5 gm dietary fiber
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Rochester, MN: What differences are there between squash and pumpkins when using them in pies? Last week I baked butternut squash and put it through a food mill to remove any strings. I used the puree to make a pie, following the Libby recipe. My husband said the result was "okay" but that he thought he preferred pumpkin. Can you give me any suggestions for using squash in a pie, or should I stick with pumpkin?
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Rochester, I'm not in on Libby's secrets but I was told at the pumpkin patch that canned pumpkin is made from butternut squash. The difference between canned and homemade puree, however, is related more to the cooking/processing methods used. Canned pumpkin has less moisture and is more full-flavored than homemade puree. If I were starting with my own squash/pumpkin (the same pumpkin patch authority recommended I stick with butternut squash and save the pumpkins for decoration) I would look for a recipe that used homemade puree not canned.
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buffet: nothing beats a beautiful and yummy display with Nova Scotia lox, cocktail pumpernickel, chopped eggs, chopped red onions, mustard, dill mayo, etc. beautiful vibrant colors and textures and excellent taste.
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: And a crowd favorite....
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Washington, D.C.: Two of my favorite (and simple!) party foods came from you WP foodie types: first, the shrimp/white bean/thyme/lemon salad recipe one of you recommended. It's fabulous for the minimal amount of work involved, and I serve small portions on appetizer spoons. Second, Kim O'Donnel's roasted sweet potato dip. People love that stuff!
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: There you go. Take a recipe (white bean and shrimp salad) and change the presentation-suddenly you have party food. Well done!
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Chocolate Bread: Hi Foodies,
I've been trying to make Chocolate Bread from Jamie Oliver's Naked Chef Takes Off cookbook. Every time (3 now) I make it, the chocolate melts and burns long before the bread is done.
I think this may have to do with changing the quantities from UK measurements to US. Is that the issue or is it something else? Any help with what I could do?
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: What's the U.K. measurement?
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party recipe: I have a butternut squash recipe that I love to make, it has curry powder, tomatoes, onion and garlic. It is good as a dip with pita bread or a side dish. A few weeks ago I made it with Hubbard squash (they were out of butternut.) the Hubbard squash had a much smoother texture.
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Butternut squash is the work horse of the winter squash family-it always works which is why I favor it.
Joe: I'm also a delicata fan, for simply roasting in the oven and scooping out the flesh.
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Monrovia, Md.: Looking for the chocolate-cranberry torte recipe in the paper & on-line, but can't seem to find it. Can you share?
washingtonpost.com: Recipe: Chocolate-Cranberry Torte. If you're looking for more, the full list of recipes accompanying the party story runs along the right side of the article.
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Bonnie: A note to Holiday Party: Applesauce is a perfect foil for the latkes. This recipe we ran a few years back is outstanding:
Roasted Mashed Apple-Pear Sauce
Makes about 4 cups
The fruit comes out of the oven puffed slightly, steaming profusely and exuding juices sweet as nectar. The resulting mash comes together in a matter of seconds. The tartness of McIntosh apples melds seamlessly with the sweetness of Bosc pear.
8 McIntosh apples, peeled, cored and quartered
4 almost ripe Bosc pears, peeled, cored and quartered
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
1/4 cup sugar
Pinch salt
Place the oven rack in the middle position and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
In a large roasting pan, toss the apples, pears, butter, sugar and salt together. Cover tightly with foil. Roast for 25 minutes, uncovering to stir the fruit once or twice. (If you forget to stir or just get lazy, the sauce will still be okay.)
Uncover the pan and roast for another 5 to 10 minutes, until the fruit feels quite tender when tested with a small, sharp knife.
Remove the pan from the oven and, using a potato masher, mash the fruit to the desired consistency.
The applesauce will keep in a covered jar in the refrigerator for several days.
Per 1/2-cup serving: 180 calories, 1 gm protein, 35 gm carbohydrates, 5 gm fat, 12 mg cholesterol, 3 gm saturated fat, 36 mg sodium, 2 gm dietary fiber
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Richmond, Va.: Entertaining via Costco-
I did just that last weekend, I got some nice spreads (a tapenade, tzaziki, hummus, and a white bean dip) from Costco with some cheeses and crackers. They also had these chicken pesto appetizers which were good.
Trader Joe's has great frozen appetizers, too. I love the chicken curry eggrolls and those papadum chips are good with a yogurt dip or some chutney.
Just don't try and pass it off as your own, there's always someone who recognizes it (or like my MIL) looks in your fridge and sees the giant containers.
Jane: How right you are. And there's no *point* in trying to fib -- there's no stigma attached to apps from Costco or Trader Joe's or elsewhere else (as long as they're delicious). I've been to plenty of parties where guests are busily exchanging suggestions about the best store-bought party finger food. The only requirement is, it has to taste great.
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Arlington, Va.: Over the holiday I tried to make mashed sweet potatoes, however, when I put them in the oven, they dried out and weren't even edible. I just used three sweets cubed, about a 1/2 cup of brown sugar, and 3/4 stick of margarine. Had them in the oven on bake 350 for thirty mins. So frustrating!
Oh and I need ideas on something with an Asian flair to do with pork chops for a dinner party of 6 adventurous eaters...
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: I'm shouting in cyberspace. BAKE THEM IN THEIR SKINS. Just give them a good scrub, prick with a fork and place on a sheet of aluminum foil in a 400 degree oven. When the juices (more syrup than juice) starts to bubble out of the potatoes and the flesh is soft, they're done-anywhere from 45 to 90 minutes depending on the size of the sweet.
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Arlington, Va.: For a sit-down holiday dinner, a hearty braised dish, such as braised short ribs or braised lamb shoulder, is one of my favorites to make and serve. Something that I love about this type of food is that is can go either rustic (think short ribs with huge, irregular chunks of root vegetables) or elegant and refined. AND the best thing -- these type of dishes actually taste better when made one or two days in advance. A great resource for braising recipes is "All About Braising" from Molly Stevens.
Bonnie: You said it. What a great book.
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Arlington, Va.: Best Ever Dinner Party Dinner: Poinsettas and Green Mojitos with appetizers (yes, we had Christmas-themed drinks), roasted turkey, root veggies, and butternut squash, and a ridiculous table full of fresh desserts...from bread pudding (with whiskey sauce, of course!) to chocolate cheesecake to the best sable cookies, which are made from an older Washington Post recipe! (Yeah, I'd love to get a book!)
Question, too: What are the general opinions of folks there regarding plastic vs. glass for cocktail parties?
Joe: You ATE your poinsettias? Aren't they poisonous? Oh, that must be a drink. Sorry.
On a more serious note, I do love drinking out of glass vs. plastic, but if you've got dozens of people I think everyone understands the dilemma and will give you a break. If you're worried about the environmental impact, there are companies that make degradable versions; I've seen them at that vegan lunch spot, Java Green.
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Washington, D.C.: My boyfriend has to cut back on citrus, chocolate, coffee, alcohol, soda, and fried foods b/c of a stomach thing (basically the same kind of foods people with acid reflux need to limit). Now obviously that isn't a particularly huge list but it feels very limiting. What in the heck do I make him for dinner? Even harder, what's a good decadent dessert for him (that isn't sorbet)?
Joe: It feels more intimidating than it actually is, doesn't it? You should give yourself a break, take a breath, and just start looking for the kinds of recipes that you already like to make and eat, because the vast majority of them won't include anything you've listed. He can eat all manner of vegetables, pasta, dairy, flour, sugar, salt -- not to minimize it, but this is nothing compared to what some people are up against. So roast, braise, grill and bake to your (and his) heart's content.
Having said that, when it comes to dessert, it's true that you're missing a couple of big categories between the chocolate and the citrus, but since he can have dairy and wheat, all manner of fruit pies, custards, and cakes are still a gloriously indulgent possibility.
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Washington, D.C.: My traditional turkey sendoff is Turkey Tetrazzini: cooked turkey, sauteed mushrooms, veloute sauce made with the broth from the turkey carcass, spaghetti or fettuccini, and parmesan, gratineed under the broiler. It's great but comes in second to the turkey sandwiches on Friday after the big day.
Joe: The sandwiches are hard to pass up, aren't they? Especially with stuffing and cranberry sauce right there between the bread. But a casserole like yours is hard to beat, too.
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Chicken 3 Ways: Or how about an even better idea - try to make something other than chicken! Start with any of the recipes in the Food Section. Or get a cookbook. Just branch out!!
Bonnie: Now, now. All us carnivores need chicken recipes.
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Grand Rapids, Mich.: What's the difference between whipping cream, heavy cream, and half-and-half? I can't find anything in the store called heavy cream.
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: I'm not sure what the official standards are but here's my explanation. Heavy cream and whipping cream are terms that basically mean the same thing. Half and half is half cream and half milk.
Joe: Believe it or not, the product in the supermarket labeled "whipping cream" usually has less fat in it than "heavy cream," but there are often stabilizers and such added to it and sometimes to heavy cream, too. And you may have a hard time finding anything that's not "ultrapasteurized," a process that extends shelf life but destroys some of the proteins in cream that help promote whipping. That's why the stabilizers are added.
If you can find it, go for just-plain pasteurized heavy cream. In a whip-off by Cook's Illustrated, that's the one they liked the best for taste and texture. It lasts longer than whipping cream, too.
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Scone City: Hello!! I am submitting early due to a meeting.
I would like to make blueberry scones for a friend for the holidays. Any good recipes? Also, can these be frozen and reheated later by the recipient?
Thanks!!
Jane: Scones are best warm and fresh from the oven. If I were giving them as a gift, I wouldn't bake and then freeze them; thawed, they would not be at their best. You could shape and then freeze the dough, and give *that* away to be baked at will, but you'd have to be sure the dough didn't thaw during the gift exchange, and you wouldn't want the recipient to keep it in the freezer very long before baking. And again, they wouldn't be as good.
Here's a scone recipe we ran in 1991.
BLUEBERRY SCONES
Makes about 14 scones)
2 cups flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons butter (plus extra to grease the pan)
1 cup blueberries, fresh or frozen
2 eggs, well beaten
1/2 cup heavy (whipping) cream
In a large mixing bowl combine the flour, baking powder, maple syrup and salt. Work in the butter with a pastry blender or fingertips until crumbly. Add blueberries. Add the eggs and cream, stirring until well blended. Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and knead 1 minute. Pat out 1/2 inch thick and either cut into triangles or shape portions into balls and flatten slightly. Place on a well-greased baking sheet and bake in a preheated 425-degree oven for about 15 minutes or until golden brown.
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Frederick, Md.: At my holiday party last year, along with the meatballs, veges/dip, chips, etc, I served a variety of stuffed eggs. I served shrimp salad, chicken salad, and tuna salad stuffed eggs. My guests loved them. It was something different from the usual party fare.
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: I'll add a personal fav-hard-cooked egg white halves filled with guacamole.
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Arlington, Va.: I just bought a Dutch oven that is cast iron with an enamel coating. It looks like a LeCruset but is not and cost a fraction of the price. I made a wonderful pot roast in it this past weekend with red wine, port, balsamic vinegar and figs and everything cooked beautifully. So my question is, is there a big difference between Le Cruset and other brands of enamel coated cast iron? Is LeCruset really worth the hefty price tag?
Joe: I love my Le Creuset, but I've seen these much much cheaper versions -- including a company that has theirs made in China -- and they strike me as being every bit as high-quality as Le Creuset. Having said that, my only caution would be about the warranty, if that matters to you. L.C. offers a lifetime one, and I've taken advantage of it. I had a pot whose lid chipped, and got the lid replaced at an outlet in Kittery, Maine, no questions asked. And I had bought the pot on eBay! Many other players are getting into this enameling game, and LC doesn't need to have a lock on it, as much as I love my set.
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Oooooh, Lumpia!!!!: Can they put me on their guest list? I haven't had lumpia in years. Or if they could just tell me where I could get some or how to make them. A friend's mom used to make them for her in large batches and freeze them for her. She always shared w/friends and neighbors. Alas, we've lost touch.
Joe: Previous chatter, are you reading? An invitation is requested...
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Washington, D.C.: Re: crab dip - is that calorie info right? 192 calories per tablespoon?!?!
Bonnie: A reason not to double dip. It's very rich (and very good).
Joe: And that's without the wonton chips! Blame it on the double-whammy of mayo and cream cheese.
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Newlywed in Alexandria: I'd love that W-S book . . . My new husband and I are starting to entertain a lot: the best thing that we've done so far is break out the new fondue pot for a cheese fondue app when we threw a dinner party last Saturday (yes, I did a full Thanksgiving on Thurs & another party on Sat!) The next time we have people over we're going to try chocolate fondue!
Joe: Now there's a thought -- making a direct plea for the book! Refreshing...
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Washington, D.C.: I'm hosting a holiday brunch - any ideas that are festive yet breakfast-y? I have a cute little fondue pot - any ideas for that?
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: I'm not for too much much group dipping at big parties though you could use your pot to serve a sauce....
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Great for buffet, holiday or otherwise: French potato salad:
Layer thin-sliced boiled potatoes;
dressing of olive oil-white vinegar (3:1) with a bit of finely minced garlic;
LOTS of fresh flat parsley;
S&P to taste
Make 3 or 4 layers in a shallow pasta bowl, chill till ready to serve.
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Another favorite..I don't even bother to chill it-It's so good warm or at room temperature. I just leave out the garlic.
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Jamie Oliver's Chocolate Bread: I lived in England when Jamie Oliver first made TV as the Naked Chef. I found that the flour is different in the UK (I couldn't make shortcrust pastry in the UK with UK flour--pie shells with my foolproof US recipe). Also, suggest that the poster buy a scale with measures in lbs and kgs. And remember--an Imperial Pint is 20 oz not the 16 that the US one is!
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: Very helpful suggestions. The Brits speak the same language but don't always mean the same thing.
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Bonnie: Dip clarification: Nutritional analysis was per serving (based on 30), NOT per TABLESPOON serving. Give that chatter a book.
Joe: Sorry about that, folks! So 30 servings for 5 cups would be... about 2 1/2 tablespoons per serving. A little better! Indeed, we'll find a book for you, too -- send us your info to food@washpost.com.
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For newlywed/beginner: I have found that the quality that has served me best in the kitchen is confidence. After all, what's the worst that could happen? Find some recipes that include things you like and just do it. Your failures are more likely to be disappointing than inedible. Spectacular failures will be rare...and make great stories later.
Stephanie Witt Sedgwick: So true. Favorite Christmas ever-My mother-in-law and I decided to try a veal breast recipe from Martha. After a few hours, we knew we were sunk-it just wasn't getting tender. Worse yet, we had demanding guests coming. We put our heads together, decided to pull out the pressure cooker and saved the meal. We still talk about it.
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Joe: Well, folks, that's all the time we have for our nibbling and chatting. Thanks for all the great questions; sorry we couldn't get to all of them, but we'll be back, as usual, next week!
As for the book winners, they are, yes, Newlywed in Alexandria with the direct plea for the Williams-Sonoma book, and the Arlington chatter who caused growls of hunger with the post about the Filipino lumpia, who will get "Latin Chic." Don't forget to send your mailing information to food@washpost.com, so we can get you your books.
Happy cooking, eating, and reading!
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