Ask Tom

Bebo Trattoria and Strudel

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. You can access his Postcards from Tom to read his recommendations for other cities, read his dining column and the Weekly Dish or read transcripts of previous "Ask Tom" chats. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

The transcript follows.

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Tom Sietsema: The star wattage! The food! The drink! The funny stories!

I've never been to a happier memorial than yesterday's four-star salute to the late "Johnny" Apple, the legendary New York Timesman who wrapped up his stellar, four decade-long career at the newspaper writing about matters of the table.

Be sure to feast on Bob Kaiser's delicious recounting of the memorial in today's Style section.

On to your questions and comments.

washingtonpost.com: Johnny Apple's Service, in the Best of Taste

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Silver Spring, Md.: Hey Tom-

Thanks in advance if you take this question. I have a big group of about 13 people wanting to get together for dinner next Friday night. Any suggestions for a place that can accommodate us without breaking the bank?

Tom Sietsema: Think Ethiopian: Dukem or Etete, where you can eat with your hands, eat meat (or not) and spend on dinner about what you'd pay for a first-run movie, popcorn and a soda.

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Lyon Park, Va.: Any word on when Tallula's EatBar is supposed to open?

Tom Sietsema: I hear sometime in January now.

washingtonpost.com: The Weekly Dish on EatBar.

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Washington, D.C.: Could you recommend a few restaurants in the District or Bethesda where I could get low-sodium meals? I follow a fairly extreme sodium restricted diet for health reasons, making almost all restaurant dining difficult. I would appreciate recommendations for restaurants that have menus that specifically could accommodate this. In addition, perhaps you could recommend some that are generally accommodating of special dietary concerns. Thank you.

Tom Sietsema: The restaurant that leaps to mind is Rock Creek in Bethesda, which lists calorie counts, fat counts, salt counts and more on the back of its menu. The nice surprise is how good so much of the food is, given its good-for-you theme.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Rock Creek.

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Just a Comment: Although I enjoy your weekly columns, they really pale in comparison to this chat. The context you are able to provide in this setting is invaluable.

When I read a review of a restaurant by another Post critic, I have no idea who that person is, what their personal biases are, etc... But having seen the rationale behind your reviews for scores of restaurants on this chat, I have a pretty good idea of what you expect from a restaurant.

So I guess the point of this is, thanks for doing this chat.

Tom Sietsema: Uh, thanks?

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San Francisco, Calif.: Tom:

I am going to Per Se in NYC this weekend with three friends. We plan to bring two bottles of wine. The prix fixe menu charge is $210 each (which includes the gratuity). The corkage fee is $90 per bottle. My question is--should we plan to add an additional gratuity based upon the corkage fee for the wine we are bringing? Thanks and love the chats.

Tom Sietsema: Congrats. You've landed one of the most difficult reservations in the country.

Ninety bucks for corkage, huh? Your bottles must be pretty special. Keep in mind that the sommelier is still offering you a service, even though your own vino is being poured. In other words, I'd be inclined to tip.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

Last week you hinted that you'd heard a beloved restaurant institution might be closing soon, but that you couldn't reveal details yet. Any updates?

Tom Sietsema: Sorry, I'm still collecting/verifying the details.

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Arlington, Va.: LOBSTAH - any recommendations on where to get good lobster rolls?

Tom Sietsema: The most delicious and most consistent is served at Kinkead's downtown. (I prefer eating mine at the bar.) Zola also makes a very nice lobster roll, and I seem to recall enjoying the sandwich offered at Coastal Flats in Fairfax, too.

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Rasika: I'm having dinner at Rasika for the first time tonight. I don't eat meat. Any fish or vegetable dishes not to be missed?

Tom Sietsema: Read on:

washingtonpost.com: Review of Rasika.

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Tom Sietsema: Splurge Alert: Chef Eric Ziebold will be offering a seven-course Christmas Eve dinner at Cityzen from 6-8:30. The price: $150.

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McLean, Va. - Wine etiquette question: Is it common for restaurants to pour unused wine back in a bottle? The reason I ask is my husband and I were at the small wine bar in McLean on a Saturday night and I ordered my wine while my husband was still deciding on what wine to order. Well the women working the bar returned with two glasses of wine, one for me and one for my husband even though he had not ordered. My husband mentioned to her that he did not order the wine and the women turned around and used a funnel and poured the wine back in the bottle. I have not seen this happen before and am wondering if this is common practice in restaurants. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Your mate's wine was never touched by him, right? I see no reason to waste wine if it hasn't been sampled. (And no, I don't think it's a common occurrence.)

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for Lobstah rolls: Legal Seafood also does a decent lobster roll.

Tom Sietsema: Ah, yes. As does Hank Oyster Bar in Dupont Circle.

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Bethesda, Md.: Tom-

Your chats are compulsory reading every Wednesday.

I'm heading to Philly tonight. Do you, or any chatters out there, know of any cool spots that have emerged since your last postcard (5/05)? We'd be looking for excellent food in casual and fun surroundings. Price and cuisine are not critical factors.

Thanks for all you do!

Thanks for you

Tom Sietsema: The bar at Amada is great fun: sherry and Spanish tapas in handsome digs.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom-

I am planning on buying my friends in Chicago a gift certificate as a Christmas present. I've looked at your post card, but those restaurants are out of my price range. I was wondering if you had any other ideas. When they were in Washington, we enjoyed places such as Mark & Orlando's, Pesce, and Matchbox.

Tom Sietsema: Hot Chocolate -- the restaurant -- is just what you're looking for. It was launched by one of Chicago's top pastry chefs, who offers lots of delicious savory food in addition to terrific sweets.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom, I need a great apple strudel to serve at a party - do you have any favorite places where I could get one to serve at home?

Tom Sietsema: Hmmm. Maybe Heller's Bakery? Ann Amernick, the pastry chef at Palena, makes an amazing strudel. To bad her shop isn't open any more!

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Washington, D.C.: Tom: Love the chats! I'm going to lunch at Blue Duck Tavern next week. Any recommendations on what to get?

Tom Sietsema: New on the menu: cheese biscuits. Bet you can't stop with just one! And the triple-fried fries are as decadent as ever. My full review follows.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Blue Duck Tavern.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom - The talk about steak houses last week got me thinking about Bobby Vans on NY Ave. I work in the building that they are in and ate lunch there 2 times when they first opened and was less then impressed. Have things changed? Do they deserve another shot?

Tom Sietsema: Given all the worthy competition nearby? I think not.

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Lunch today: near Farragut North?

Tom Sietsema: Try Wasabi, the newish sushi-go-round purveyor on 17th.

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Reused wine: Just a quick comment on the previous poster's question about pouring wine back into the bottle. In my restaurant, that just would never happen. It taints the quality of the wine to have it poured back and forth into different containers. If a wine is exposed to air for an extended period of time, it begins to taste differently and pouring from bottle to glass through funnel back to bottle then ultimately into another glass just speeds that up. It's not fair to the next person who orders that wine. We either won't use it or we'll let the chef use it in a dish or something.

Tom Sietsema: Good point. But in this case, it sounds like the wine was out of the bottle for less than a few minutes.

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Washington, D.C.: I have a question regarding the bone marrow at Montsouris. I went there not too long ago and ordered the bone marrow and it was kind of tepid and not really all that satisfying. I realize that you cannot get the whole thing really hot or the marrow will sort of melt away - on the other hand I think it would be more appetizing if there was a certain crusty-caramilization on the top and if it were at least warm through. What is your feeling on how this should be served? Thx!

Also - just wanted to thank you for recommending Greens in London in a chat or a postcard a while ago. We go there every time we are in London and have found the service to be very nice and I love the Crab salad they have and my husband likes the quintessential British cooking that reminds him of home.

Tom Sietsema: I, too, prefer marrow to be warmer than tepid. Maybe a moment under the broiler/salamander would do the trick?

So glad to hear you enjoyed Greens! It reminds me how good British food can be.

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Fort Lauderdale, Fl.: Tom, several years age I purchase your dining guide in booklet form from the Washington Post. Do you still utilize the booklet format and if so where can I purchase the Guide. I enjoy immensely reading your critiques and responses to the boarders. I note that you were in my neck of the woods recently and I certainly will check out your choices. Keep up the good work.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the kind words. My 2005 book (200 reviews) is available in area bookstores, on the Post's web site and on Amazon.com.

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Bethesda, Md.: Holiday Greetings Tom,

Thank you for all your delicious suggestions! My husband and I have enjoyed many fabulous meals following your advice!

This is not a question but an acknowledgment of those restaurants which have treated me so well in the last 2 months. I have celiac disease but adore fabulous food and wine. I am always very polite when I explain my situation to my server (I've been a waitress; everyone should have to be at some time)and have encountered nothing but kindness in return. I would like to highlight these restaurants for their food, service, and heightened awareness: Rasika, Bistro Lepic, Ceiba(love those bartenders), Zaytinya, Cafe St-Ex, and Ardeo. I realize how difficult it is to please everyone, but some establishments have a heart and soul that go beyond just what is expected. A big "Thank You" for making my life and belly more full!

Tom Sietsema: A round of applause, please, for the aforementioned restaurants.

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Apple Strudel: Try the German Gourmet 7185 Lee Hwy, Falls Church.

The strudel looked authentic to me---flaky, messy crust, lotsa fruit. Very Viennese looking.

Tom Sietsema: Mmmmmm. Sounds promising. And fattening!

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Atlanta, Geo.: The entire world is going to see this online if you don't start reporting the truth

oh by the way 541,342 people have joined the global warming cause and read the link entitled "Mark Foley and The Drug Free America Foundation and at least already 20% of them are from a mass emailing by Davida Shensky and her team of World Patriots, including Jeff Fisher. Mr. Fisher is wondering if you are going to report the truth or is Patrick J Fitzgerald going to have you arrested for obstruction of Justice and for Treason. Mr. Fisher has real Secret Service ,real FBI, real US Marshals, real CIA agents, contract workers and even interpol assigned to him. Do you need phone numbers?

Why don't you start talking now on the show about mark Foley and the Drug Free America Foundation.

This letter will be faxed all over the world, but more important it is going to be spread allover the internet. you have until noontime to comply.

Tom Sietsema: Wrong chat, buddy ...

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Tom,

I read in yesterday's Washington Post that the number of taste buds decreases at age 40 for women and 50 for men. What are your thoughts on this?

Thanks

Tom Sietsema: I guess I can stick around in this job awhile longer ...

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BEBO: You asked a couple of weeks ago whether anyone else had experienced the same poor service at Bebo that another chatter did and I must say that unfortunately I have. I really want the restaurant to work so I tried to overlook the horrible service but if it keeps up even the great food isn't worth that. In a nutshell, I had reservations, when I arrived the hostess was so befuddled it took her 15 minutes to figure out where to seat my party (after help from numerous other people). It wasn't a matter of too few tables or servers, it was just inexperience and confusion. Then during dinner (which was great by the way)we were never asked if we wanted another drink, I had to ask for my wine a couple times before receiving it, and our water glasses were never refilled. The waiter, noticing that it took a few tries to get me my wine and that the service in general was very slow mentioned that he would give us a free dessert. So, when it was time to order dessert we did so. When the bill came out it wasn't free (again, we did not ask for the free dessert, it was offered). When I joked with him about not getting the free dessert he said of course and ended up bringing us yet another dessert of his choosing. At that point I didn't want to give him a hard time over his offer and just chalked the experience up to a new place (this occurred about three weeks ago). This normal weeknight dinner took 2 hours. Like I said, I like the food and its price and I hope that all of the service issues are just due to a new restaurant getting on its feet but if it doesn't change it won't be worth going back there. Good food or not.

Tom Sietsema: Got that, Roberto?

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Washington, D.C.: Tom,

I wanted your opinion on a situation. Recently, I had dinner at Cafe Belga with a large group. We had 6:00 reservations and after drinks, appetizers, dinner, dessert, and after dinner drinks, it was 8:30. The restaurant was crowded and I sensed they needed us to leave to seat other parties. The staff was perfectly cordial and professional, but they did things that I think are reasonable-- clearing our dishes, not bringing more water and coffee, and giving us the "Did you have a nice dinner?" visit from the hostess. I suggested to our group that we should get going and they were indignant-- they felt that as long as they still had drinks they had the right to finish at their leisure. I also suggested we should leave additional tip money, since by the time the table turned over, we would have been there 3 hours and I felt like the staff was losing out on potential tips from other customers. This too was rejected.

What do you think of this type of situation? Is it wrong for a party to take a table for so long, even if they are still ordering? And should they leave a larger tip? I again want to compliment the staff for not pushing us out the door, and also apologize to the people who were waiting for our table!

Tom Sietsema: Lots of questions there.

Just how large was your group? Some restaurants "invite" lingering diners to the bar when their tables are needed, but it sounds as if your party was bigger than a handful of diners. And large groups are frequently presented with a tab that includes a 15-20 percent gratuity. (How was the service, by the way?) Two and a half hours seems like plenty of time for "a group" to eat, but you don;'t mention how quickly the food was delivered, etc.

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Anonymous: If you can only take so many chats then why do you so take a chat that so obviously doesn't belong here? Do you think this is funny? Come on give the space to someone who wants to talk about the subject at hand. Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Where's your sense of humor?!

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Maryland: not caring who touched the wine, the wine had been poured into a glass and thus contaminated by whatever dust/bacteria/etc. in the glass. Yeah, even a clean glass has it. pouring it back into the bottle (which may or may not be used up immediately) really just doesn't seem worth the risk to anyone.

by your logic, the restaurant should be able to put my breadbasket on someone else's table if it didn't look like I had touched it.

can I just say "ewww" to these types of practices?

Tom Sietsema: Ever consider just how many fingers have dipped into the nuts and pretzels that adorn the counters of so many bars? That gives ME the willies.

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Washington, D.C.: Re: Philadelphia- a beer and the steak frites are not to be missed at Monk's Cafe at 16th and Spruce. 215-545-7005. It's a true Belgian treat!

Tom Sietsema: So I've heard, so I've heard.

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Combining two comments: The comment about the marrow came so soon after the request for recommendations at Blue Duck, I just had to comment -- the marrow bone appetizer at Blue Duck is delicious!

Tom Sietsema: Indeed it is!

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Washington, D.C.: Tom,

Help! My mom is fifty-something and not very adventurous, but recently discovered Thai food. We're going to a play Saturday afternoon and thinking about Haad Thai afterward. Is this a good place, atmosphere (clean, not too spare) and food-wise, for someone like this?

Love the chats!

Tom Sietsema: I prefer Rice in Logan Circle or Regent Thai in Dupont Circle myself.

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Re: unused wine: Actually, I think it's against the law to pour anything back into a liquor bottle to keep unscrupulous restaurants from watering.

Tom Sietsema: Okay, okay, let me amend my previous response:

It's NOT okay (legally, from what I now understand) to pour unused wine back into its (original or other) container.

(Had I received this post earlier, I would have investigated.)

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom -

I had lunch last Friday at the new Johnny's on the Half Shell and was pretty disappointed. I tried the desserts, which you recommended in your review and thought the chocolate napoleon seemed burnt on the edges. The menu seemed a bit on the small side and there was nothing that really stood out to me as a winning dish that I should order. My luncheon companion and I sadly left and both stated that the Hill still does not have a decent restaurant in the vicinity.

Why can't the folks be persuaded to put a nice fish and chips on the menu? And I'm sorry but $26 for two TINY crab cakes does do it for me. As a native Marylander, I wasn't impressed at all and in this area, you need an impressive crab cake to assure return customers!

Thanks so much for the chats - I love Wednesdays because of them!

Tom Sietsema: The new Johnny's is still working out some kinks, as I detailed in my review last month.

I wouldn't write off the pastry chef's work so quickly. Valerie Hill is a real asset to the sweets scene here. But I'm sorry to hear about the "burnt" tasting chocolate.

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Anonymous: I actually have a great sense of humor but I didn't find this "wrong" chat that funny especially since you've done it before. If you (or someone) can pick and choose which questions to post and obviously from the chatters who repeatedly moan the fact that their question never gets posted that perhaps we can stick to the subject at hand. It just doesn't seem that funny to make fun of Global Warming.

Tom Sietsema: Now YOU'RE wasting our precious time ...

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washingtonpost.com: Review of Johnny's Half Shell.

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Arlington, Va.: After eager anticipation of trying Bebo Tratoria out, we too had a bad time with the hostess as well as awful service. Our waiter would not make eye contact with us for 15 minutes before we ordered and continued to snub us during the lukewarm meal. I was quite disappointed as I had hoped, based on review Bebo Tratoria would become one of my restaurant standards. I cannot say I will return based on my first experience

Tom Sietsema: As Scooby Doo used to say: "Ruh-row"

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Bebo and Farrah Olivia: Hi Tom,

Just wanted to share 2 experiences last week at these 2 restaurants. First, we tried Farrah Olivia for the first time and thought it was wonderful. We had a lobster appetizer and I had delicious white tuna for my entree. The service, food and wine were just great. We will definitely be back.

On to Bebo... Had an 8pm reservation, showed up at 8 and were told we would have to wait for a table. Got seated at 8:15, which wasn't a big deal - it was busy. Had a waiter that had some trouble understanding everything we said. Brought the wrong cocktail to my father, wrong salad to me and brought the proscuitto my husband asked to be added to his pasta, as an appetizer. We spoke with the manager, Patrick, who could not have been nicer or more professional. He explained that the waiter doesn't understand English very well and that he was filling in for someone who called in sick. He righted the 3 wrongs that the waiter made and on top of it, took about 20% off of our bill which was unnecessary but very welcome and which will probably make us go back, but next time not on a Friday night. Oh yeah, the pasta was pretty good too.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the field reports. I'm not sure why a server who doesn't know much English was put on the floor at Bebo -- isn't that inviting even greater problems than being short-staffed? -- but I like the way the bumps were smoothed over.

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Washington, D.C.: Hey Tom,

In reference to last week's question about Anchorage, there is a great restaurant called Orso on 5th Avenue and G. A wonderful space with a slightly modern, but nonetheless fabulous, take on Italian food. The seafood gemelli is not to be missed, with Bering Sea scallops, clams, mussels, shrimp, and rockfish in a light garlic cream sauce. I made a special effort to go there twice in my short time in Anchorage.

Two other good spots:

Snow City Cafe is an amazing breakfast spot with tasty coffee and delicious omelettes.

Marx Bros. Cafe is a funky fine-dining establishment with a nice view of Cook Inlet. The owner will create a salad for you tableside while entertaining you with charming anecdotes about his fish-out-of-water life in Alaska.

I was surprised and more than impressed with Anchorage's dining scene. Now if only they could do something about the weather...

Tom Sietsema: Thanks.

After last week's chat, reader Jon Simon sent me the following:

Both Orso and Sack's Cafe, in my experience, have been consistently excellent. Only been to the latter for lunch, but no reason it shouldn't be just as good for dinner as well.

And, if the poster has a car and is willing to venture out a bit, the Double Musky Inn in Girdwood, AK is well worth the trip. It's a fun, Cajun-style place near Mt. Alyeska (a ski resort). Their French Pepper Steak is delicious (for what it's worth, it was featured on one of the Food Network shows as one of the best steaks going), and their eponymous

Doublie Musky Pie (if you have any room left) is to-die-for.

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Washington, D.C.: Maybe "Atlanta, Geo." and "Anonymous" just need a good meal to calm their nerves. What would you suggest for some comfort food? I'm thinking a really hearty chili a or juicy hamburger.

Tom Sietsema: Or a hot dog at the bar at Palena ...

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom

like everyone else, I do enjoy your chats very much. I was wondering about your thoughts concerning in some restaurants the chef's present a small taste before you meal arrives. I have had some amazing tidbits from Cityzen, Zola, Maestro and BLT. And yet other places either don't do it or don't put any effort into what should be a peak into what is in store for the diner. what do you think?

Tom Sietsema: I think your comment is worth a column, which I've written for later this month (Dec. 24).

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Re: Per Se Tipping: The gratuity is being included at a set rate at Per Se and is pooled amongst all employees. Because of that, an additional tip for the sommelier is not only not necessary, but may be not accepted. Per Se went to this system to try to get all staff motivated to keep service levels high. Think of it this way, you would be tipping the sommelier even if you didn't bring or drink wine.

Tom Sietsema: You're right. This made headlines when it was instituted earlier this year. Thanks for the reminder.

The hour is up, folks. Thanks for tuning in. See you back next Wednesday.

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Strudel: Cafe Monti, Duke St, Alexandria!

Tom Sietsema: This just in.... ciao!

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