Rabbits and Resolutions

Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, January 3, 2007; 11:00 AM

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. You can access his Postcards from Tom to read his recommendations for other cities, read his dining column and the Weekly Dish or read transcripts of previous "Ask Tom" chats. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

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The transcript follows.

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Vienna, Va.: Season's Greetings, Tom. Wondering whether you or the chatters would enlighten us on whether hotel concierges receive a kickback or something of the like for their restaurant recommendations?

Tom Sietsema: Nothing like a provocative question to start the new year!

Any restaurants out there paying the city's hotel staffs for pointing customers their way?

(Happy 2007, everyone. It feels good to be back in the saddle again.)

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Gaithersburg, Md.: My husband and I met friends for dinner last week at Paper Moon in Georgetown. We go there every couple of years for dinner. It is always consistent in terms of food and service, but never particularly busy. Granted, the food is not particularly creative. But it's good food at a reasonable price and a nice atmosphere, and they've been around for at least 20 years that I can recall. What do you think of the place?

Tom Sietsema: I can't tell you. The last time I ate there, I was dating a girl named Ginny and getting ready to take a Russian language exam.

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Bebo and the comments on waitstaff: Your review of Bebo makes me want to go there - linguini and clams being my number one weakness when it comes to "traditional" Italian food, and I'll suffer the bad service for it. But it raises a question I'd love for some of these big name chefs to answer - why oh why does it seem like the front of the house is totally unimportant to you? Both reader reviews under yours slams the service horribly, and Bebo is certainly not the only DC metro area restaurant to earn such remarks - it's RARE to find decent service. Do they think their cooking is enough? Don't they know that service is every bit as important to most diners as the food? Why don't they care??? Is it just a lack of qualified supervision out front - no captains? No maitre d's? No headwaitperson?

Tom Sietsema: I'd be very surprised to hear from any chef willing to admit to inferior service in his or her dining room!

My immediate response to your very good question is this: I think most chefs have very little real sense of what goes on in their dining rooms, chiefly because they're focused on back-of-the-house matters (cooking) and typically not active participants in the dining room.

Think about it: Even if a chef were to eat in his own restaurant, he'd probably be getting star treatment.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Bebo.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom!

I went to Restaurant Eve this past weekend and had a lovely dinner in the Tasting Room.

The food and service were wonderful.

However, I was surprised to find that the restroom was a mess (water splashed everywhere, no hand towels left)! It was a shame to have that be the last impression of the restaurant and I was surprised that with so much attention paid to every other detail, they would let the restroom get so sloppy.

They should be more careful about it, it did affect my opinion of the place.

Tom Sietsema: Yep, bathrooms are important. Knowing the owners of Eve, though, I bet the problem was a short-lived issue.

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Leonardtown, Md.: Hello Tom:

We have been reading your column religiously for years and love it -- keep up the great work! We have a question that you may answered before, but still mystifies us -- are you better off in general ordering the daily special(s) or the regular menu? What, in general, is the driving force behind the selection of the 'special'? We have many debates about this and would welcome your insights.

Tom Sietsema: I guess it depends on your goal: Do you want a dish the restaurant is known for (something from the standing menu), or a dish that celebrates the season or a particular ingredient (a special)?

They can be one and the same, and both have their merits.

Example: Kinkead's is known for its fried Ipswich clams and grilled squid and polenta with tomato fondue. But my experience with specials there -- scallops in a peanut-curry sauce, walnut-crusted halibut with a silken cauliflower flan -- made me glad to have deviated from the list of signatures.

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Downtown D.C.: Tom - We're going to the Kennedy Center one night this weekend and would like to have dinner before the show within walking distance. What are your suggestions, besides perhaps the Roof Terrace (more pricey than ideal)? From looking at reviews by you and others, the restaurant at the Watergate (I forget the name) sounds spotty and too expensive for the risk; Dish sounds good but a little far for walking to and from the KC. There must be others that I missed! Thanks for you help.

Tom Sietsema: My first choice is Notti Bianche on New Hampshire Ave. NW. And it's worth a call to see if Marcel's is still offering its dinner-and-a-limo service to KC theater-goers.

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Falls Church, Va.: I read your rave review of the rabbit dish at Bebo Trattoria da Roberto Donna. I have a pet rabbit (Fiona). The fried rabbit legs in the accompanying photo remind me of Fiona's legs.

Tom Sietsema: You're scaring me....

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ClevelandParkFoodie: Do you really think truffles are "worth" the money. I LOVE and will pay for fresh morels, but on a recent dinner at Aqua in San Francisco, I paid $30 extra to have the show of having shaved white truffles on my gnocchi and really am wondering what all the fuss is about. I even let the warmth of the dish heat them up and I have to say they were, well fancy mushrooms to me and Not worth the money. IMO, we are now in an era where the more expensive the item, wine etc, the more snob appeal and people, especially here in status conscious DC who want to brag about what they are spending. I would rather spend my hard earned money on oysters or wild salmon or even try American caviar

Tom Sietsema: I hear you. A few white truffles go a long way. They're more about aroma than flavor.

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National Cathedral: Hi Tom,

Happy New Year! I am going to be at the National Cathedral for a performance on an upcoming Saturday. Do you have any recommendations for restaurants in the area? It's not an area I frequent, so I have no idea what's there. Thanks for the help!

Tom Sietsema: My favorite restaurant in that neck of the woods is Two Amys, for pizza. A bit further away, in Georgetown, you might consider Sushi-Ko for Japanese or Old Europe for German.

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Washington, D.C.: Have you ever heard of managers getting tipped out by their employees? I have a friend who was telling me that at their restaurant they have their managers in the tip pool and they make as much as the servers do, tip wise. It didn't sound right to me so I thought I'd ask you if you've ever heard of this before.

Tom Sietsema: I've never heard of a manager sharing tips with servers.

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Falls Church, Va.: I used to work for a dinner cruise line in DC and we offered concierge "rebates" in the form of cash for their referrals.

Tom Sietsema: Coupons for a boat trip or actual cash?

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom. Happy NY. For a first introduction to Colorado Kitchen, would you recommend brunch or dinner? We're big burger fans, but I don't know which menu it's offered on. (And it's not a requirement anyway.) Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: I enjoy both meals. It just depends on what you like, I guess. Brunch has the advantage of really good doughnuts, for instance, but dinner finds the likes of really good meatloaf.

Last time I checked, burgers are served Friday at lunch and Thursday and Sunday nights.

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Falls Church, Va.: Rabbits are not protected under the (under-enforced) Humane Slaughter Act. There is no requirement that they be rendered insensible to pain when their throats are cut and they bleed to death.

Tom Sietsema: Here we go ....

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kick backs to concierge: Dear Tom,

When I worked as a hostess for a local restaurant group, the management had a system with the local concierges that each reservation that they made earned them points which added up and they got gift certificates to be used at any of the restaurants in the group, which is sort of a kick back, I suppose.

Tom Sietsema: Indeed it is.

In defense of concierges, there's not much value in pointing guests to restaurants that aren't good simply for a bit of money (though that money can add up, I'm sure). Because won't guests let the front desk know if they feel they were steered wrong?

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Near the Cathedral: Other alternatives near the Washington Cathedral are the Cafe Delux and the Cactus Cantina.

Tom Sietsema: Right. But I'm not much of a fan of either restaurant.

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Downtown, D.C., Girl: Tom,

I follow your post, and you are always SPOT ON! but I have had a little bit of a problem finding where the CUTE/sexy chefs are, why hasn't anyone in DC put out the top 10 Sexist chefs that way a girl can find one who is nice to look at and can cook for her!

Tom Sietsema: You obviously didn't get the pin-up calendar put out by the Passion Food group! Hate to tell you, but a number of hunks and hunkesses are hitched. (But I think Barton Seavor remains a solo act.)

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Washington, D.C.: We have some friends coming into town and they would like to have dinner and drinks in the Eastern Market area. Sonoma Wine Bar comes to mind, but can you think of another place, especially on the trendy drinks side? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: What about that sleek lounge at Charlie Palmer Steak?

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Alexandria, Va.: Tom, your chats are always a Wednesday highlight for me! Just doing my yearly check-in with you to see if there is any decent Georgian food to be found yet in the DC area. My friends and I have been waiting in vain for some fresh khachapuri!

Tom Sietsema: Sorry to say, I have yet to find any Georgian flavors around here. But I'm ever hopeful!

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North Potomac, Md.: Hi Tom,

In answer to the question on what is going on at the Morrison-Clark Inn (from December 13 chat). Executive Chef Craig Hartman arrived there in 2005 and really turned the kitchen around. He is an extremely talented chef with many accolades. He has been featured in Gourmet magazine and was a guest chef 3 times at James Beard House in NYC. Too bad that the Inn has such a poor PR department. No one knew he was there. Without much applause, he has left us to become Executive Chef of Keswick Hall in Charlottesville in January 2007. He will be missed! Morrison-Clark Inn is currently interviewing and may have already chosen a replacement.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the update. But chefs don't need publicists to contact me. All they have to do is email (sietsemat@washpost.com) or call (202-334-6923).

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

I am going to dinner tonight at Guajillo in Arlington. Have you been there recently? Anything worth checking out?

Thanks!!!!

Tom Sietsema: It's been at least 9 months since I last dined at the Mexican oasis in Arlington, but food pals inform me they continue to eat well there.

As an aside, Guajillo is planning to open an outpost in Washington, which is expected to open next month.

washingtonpost.com: The Weekly Dish on Casa Oaxaca.

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20015: Have you read "Setting the Table" by Danny Meyer?

Tom Sietsema: I'm still working on "Heat" and "Arugula!" But I did manage to get through Roland Mesnier's (forthcoming) White House memoir over the weekend. Nancy was a royal pain. Hillary was super-demanding. The former White House pastry chef seems to have adored the Bushes, though.

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chefs and their restaurants: They may get treated like stars in their own restaurants, and in fact, in others where they are recognized, but they should be AWARE of what's happening in their businesses - particularly the chef/owner, of which Donna is one. A LOT of the complaints are directed at just these establishments (chef-owned) and they need to remember that they own the whole thing, not just the kitchen.

Tom Sietsema: Yes indeed!

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Alexandria, Va.: Hi Tom, I read your recent postcard from NYC. Have reservations later this month for Del Posto. Any can't-miss pasta dishes? Thanks for your help.

Tom Sietsema: One of my happiest memories was raviolini stuffed with zucchini blossoms and scattered with bits of rabbit. Mmmmm.

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Alexandria, Va.: Is there anywhere in Old Town (or elsewhere in Alexandria) where I can find a good grilled cheese? I have a craving...

Tom Sietsema: The bar at Restaurant Eve makes a terrific one.

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Washington, D.C.: My experience at Bebo was awful. Soups were brought to the table with plastic wrap still on the bowls suggesting that they were microwaved. Many have had the same treatment. Is microwaved soup representative of a 2.5 star restaurant.

Is homemade chicken stock supposed to impress patrons as well? Your review seemed to be a desperate appeasement of a popular chef who is clearly resting on his laurels during costly renovations.

Tom Sietsema: Plastic wrap on your soup bowl? That's unacceptable.

I think you're missing the point of my review by zeroing in on my saying the stock is made there. That's one detail in a 1,800 word review. And if you really read it, there's serious criticism in the critique. Service needs work. Space is wrong. Not all dishes are equal.

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Washington, D.C.: re; bad staff. I don't think people realize how hard it is to find good people for the front of the house, or the kitchen for that matter. It's a tough industry. Waiting tables is hard work, it's physical labor and when customers are rude it makes even harder. There are some great waiters out there, but it's slim pickins.

Tom Sietsema: So every restaurateur tells me.

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NW, D.C.: What is the expected attire for Two Amy's? I really want to try their pizza, but the only time I am in the area is after a trip to the zoo. Can I go casual (within reason)?

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Casual is fine. VERY casual is fine. Two Amys is a pizza parlor, after all.

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Alexandria, Va.: Tom,

I was wondering if you could settle a dispute between a co-worker and myself. We have a reservation for ten for restaurant week next week, but she expects one or two more people to show up. If our reservation is for ten, and eleven or twelve show up at the restaurant, is the restaurant obligated to seat eleven, even though they were only expecting ten?

Thanks, and I hope you enjoyed your new year.

Tom Sietsema: If you reserve for ten people, the restaurant is only responsible for seating ten diners. It's as simple as that.

To think that you can just add and subtract at will, without giving the restaurant advance notice -- and during Restaurant Week at that! -- is poor manners and totally thoughtless of both the business and fellow diners.

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Washington, D.C.: Your reviews and chats are invaluable. That said: You often seem strangely enthusiastic about simple, home-style food, like Colorado Kitchen. I tried it and liked it, but it seemed strange to pay $15 for food that was similar to (though better than) what I can make at home. My theory: You (and probably many of your readers) go out to lots of fancy, elegant restaurants, and the 20th dish of fried calamari or melted chocolate cake can't excite like the first. Simple food is a welcome change. I eat out maybe once or twice a month at nice restaurants; for those special occasions, I'm looking for something that I could never make at home. Does this make sense to you?

Tom Sietsema: Absolutely! I DO see lots of fancy food in the course of duty and I DO relish simple preparations -- now and then.

As I've stated before, however, simple food is hard to do. A well-made pie, for instance, impresses me as much as the latest invention from Minibar.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

A few weeks back, you teased a big story about a restaurant leaving the DC scene. Any updates?

Tom Sietsema: It hasn't happened. Yet.

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Farragut North, Washington, D.C.: BLT Outrageous! Pate with bread rather than butter is disgusting and limiting to this vegetarian. Yes you're now wondering why a vegetarian would be dining at a steakhouse but it was because my client/colleague wanted to and not by my own choice. SO why oh why - even in a steakhouse - is it acceptable to serve pate rather than butter with bread? Mini-review - just another steakhouse.

Tom Sietsema: Butter comes with the popovers ....

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Correction, please: Sushi-Ko and Old Europe are both just down the hill from the Cathedral in Glover Park, not Georgetown. (We Glover Parkians are a proud group.)

Tom Sietsema: Gotcha! I was this close to typing "Glover Park" -- and should have.

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Washington, D.C.: To the chatter wanting to bring 12 instead of ten.

Many restaurants have but one table that can seat 10. If you have 11, you are SOL. And when you show up with 11 or 12 instead of 10, the restaurant wastes much time reconfiguring the dining room and moving reservations around to accommodate your rudeness.

Tom Sietsema: Well said.

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Alexandria, Va.: Tom -- you're the greatest of all! What are your recommendations regarding Kosher delis and brunch spots around the Dupont Circle area for out of town visitors?

Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Eli's is near the Circle and it's kosher, but I only gave it one star in my most recent restaurant guide. As for brunch destinations in or near Dupont, I like the Tabard Inn, Cashion's Eat Place, Hank's Oyster Bar and (for something different) the Bombay Club.

washingtonpost.com: The Weekly Dish on Eli's.

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re: PETA style comments: Tom, please keep these to yourself. we don't need to see everything that someone feels is appropriate to send! and you're just giving them more attention!

Tom Sietsema: You wouldn't believe the stuff that we AREN'T publishing at the moment.

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Cedar Grove, Md.: Good morning Tom, Happy New Year and welcome back.

Regarding service, which restaurants in your opinion make service a big priority and are consistently outstanding? I don't care how good the food is, if I don't like the service, I'm never going back. Which restaurants strive for excellence day in and day out?

Thanks Tom. (And can you recommend any places in Golden Valley, MN?)

Tom Sietsema: Of the Big Deal restaurants, I think the folks at Restaurant Eve, Vidalia, 1789 and Zaytinya are on top of things.

On a corporate note, no one does it better than the staffs at the myriad Great American Restaurants, which include Coastal Flats, Artie's, Sweetwater Tavern, etc.

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Washington, D.C.: Re: concierge's getting a kick-back- I used to work at a fine dining restaurant in CA and we would give little calling cards with the restaurants logo on it to concierge's a hotels across the city. When a concierge would recommend our restaurant to a guest, he would write his name on the bottom of the card and send it in with the guest. The guest got a free appetizer and the concierge got a "point" towards a gift certificate at the restaurant.

Tom Sietsema: Everybody wins in that case.

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To the veggie at BLT: How do you know the pate is "disgusting" if you obviously didn't even try it?

Tom Sietsema: She was referring to its presence at the table rather than its flavor, one presumes.

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Takoma Park, Md.: Thanks, Tom, for the entertaining and informative chats. Is the waiter or waitress responsible for making sure the check is correct? If it's not correct, should that person receive less for a tip? Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Yes, the server is responsible for the accuracy of the check. But servers are human and humans make mistakes. I wouldn't be inclined to tip less, provided the service was otherwise satisfactory. (What exactly was the error you encountered?)

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Colvin Run Tavern: Tom,

Happy New Year! Eight of us will be dining at Colvin Run

Tavern next Monday to celebrate my father's retirement.

Since it's a celebration, I would love to purchase a couple

of bottles of wine for the table (white and red) to be

delivered as a little retirement surprise. I'm willing to

spend about $50 per bottle, however, I am not sure if this

is appropriate. Also, since there are several of us I'm not

sure which bottles would be the correct ones to choose.

Do have any suggestions on wine selection and how to

arrange this? Thank you!

Tom Sietsema: What a lovely gesture!

I'd call the restaurant and ask to speak with the sommelier. He should be able to help you select wines in your price range and make sure they're on the table when the party arrives.

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great airport food: Happy New Year! to chime in from the last discussion about great food in airports - the cafe in Belize International Airport serves delicious and very inexpensive food. Best I've ever had in an airport.

Tom Sietsema: Anything specific that you tried and liked?

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Washington, D.C.: Happy New Year! I made reservations for Viridian during restaurant week. Good choice?

Tom Sietsema: Sure. The Logan Circle restaurant is now on its third chef, and he's still settling in, but I very much like what I've seen and tasted recently. Plus, the space is very much to my taste. I like the soft lighting, the comfortable chairs, the projected visuals on the bar, the eats in the lounge area.

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Washington, D.C.: Hey Tom-

Is Phyllis Richman stepping on your turf? Can we look forward to a Sharks vs. Jets moment in the lobby of some new restaurant?

Tom Sietsema: It was fun seeing her byline in today's Food section. I say, more! More!

washingtonpost.com: Cirque du Saute

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Mount Vernon, Va.: How does one tell a neighborhood restaurant owner that his restaurant is "slipping." It's a most convenient place, the food is generally good and moderately priced. But, it's not as good as it used to be and it seems that even though they have raised the prices, some of the dishes are a little skimpy. Some are over-priced. Long-time area diners are starting to drift away to newer restaurants most of which are chain restaurants. We like the friendliness of our favorite spot but it's not "so hot" anymore! How do we get the word out to owner that he has to do better? Thanks for your help!

Tom Sietsema: I'd write a diplomatic letter or email. Be specific: tell the owner how much you've enjoyed the restaurant in the past, but how you've noticed lately that the food isn't what it used to be. Give helpful details ("the burger is smaller than it used to be, and I miss the home-baked buns") and end on a positive note.

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Annandale, Va.: Hi Tom, friend and I are looking for a restaurant for lunch on Saturday preferably in DC. Any cuisine other than Korean--too spicy for me now. Was hoping for Komi but it is not open for lunch. Would value any suggestions you have for us.

Tom Sietsema: One place that rarely disappoints me is Bistrot Lepic in Georgetown. I like the relative calm of its sunny dining room and the chef's fine French cooking. (Don't miss the boudin blanc if its available.)

Another place that doesn't get as much fanfare as it should -- and is open for lunch on Saturday -- is the handsome Regent Thai Cuisine on 18th St. NW. There, I gravitate to the grilled whole trout,basil fried rice and drunken noodles with squid.

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Washington, D.C.: Has Michele Richard's new restaurant opened?

Tom Sietsema: Not yet, but soon. Chef Richard is spending a lot of time at 11th and Penn. these days as his bistro gets ready for its debut.

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Arlington, Va.: I've seen many comments in these chats about how to address problems that arise during the course of a meal, so I'm curious about how you handled the wine incident that you described in Sunday's review of Bebo (which I'm looking forward to trying, based on your review of the food).

Tom Sietsema: For the most part, my way of handling problems is to write about them. In this case, I waited for the server to return and let him know, for a second time, that the wine could breathe all day long and it still wouldn't be drinkable. Thus, I ordered a replacement.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

Going to Indigo Landing for brunch next weekend. What is your opinion on the place.

Tom Sietsema: It's been awhile since I've brunched there, but I have some nice memories of eating at Indigo Landing by day. The view is a big draw, of course.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Indigo Landing.

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Washington, D.C.: I'm moving to Chicago in a few weeks and everyone there seems to suggest its the best restaurant city in the U.S. Do you agree?

Tom Sietsema: It's ONE of the best, right up there with New York, San Fancisco and good ol' Washington, D.C.

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Georgian food: I love khachapuri! While it's probably not the best one you've ever had, especially if you've had one in Georgia or even any former Soviet republics, I know the Russian store/deli by White Flint mall (corner of Nicholson and 355) sells it. They also sell lots of other Russian goodies, including caviar, cakes, some Georgian cheeses (suluguni), etc. I believe there are other Russian stores/delis around, maybe even one in VA (I remember there being one in McLean), that may sell it too.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the tip.

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Pate OK: To the vegetarian offended by pate:

You don't eat pate. Ok, fine, we get it. But BLT- and other restaurants- are designed with a certain vision, and that vision involves animal products. Lots and lots of delicious, succulent animal products. You don't have to eat them. But don't expect a restaurant to keep them out of your line of sight for fear of offending you. If you want butter, ask a waiter. I'm sure he/she would gladly bring some.

I don't know if they'll have a copy of that memo you were supposed to receive about not being the center of the universe, however.

Tom Sietsema: Now, now, now, let's try to be civil!

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Washington, D.C.: Tom, found an amazing BBQ joint and feel the need to plug it. Texas BBQ in Clinton, MD- a quick drive and you get huge portions, super-friendly staff and DELICIOUS food. The Carolina pulled pork is my favorite, and I could eat a bucket of the coleslaw. I'm from the South and haven't found really good BBQ in DC (Old Glory doesn't do much for me and Rocklands has gone downhill).

Tom Sietsema: Ah, something for both the carnivore (bbq) and the vegetarian (slaw)!

And on that note, I bid you farewell til next Wednesday. Thanks for participating.

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