A chat with the Food section staff is a chance for you to ask questions, offer suggestions and share information with other cooks and food lovers. It is a forum for discussion of food trends, ingredients, menus, gadgets and anything else food-related.

Each chat, we will focus on topics from the day's Food section. You can also read the transcripts of past chats. Do you have a question about a particular recipe or a food-related anecdote to share? The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET. Read about the staff of the Food section.

The transcript follows.

____________________

Joe: Welcome to our chat! A week before Valentine's Day, and do you know what your cooking? What you're eating? We Free Rangers tend to think it's a much better idea to stay at home and whip something up yourself (or yourselves) rather than brave what can be a chaotic night for restaurants. To that end, we have Tony Rosenfeld on tap to help us help you navigate plans for the big night.

And for the chatters with the most interesting posts, we have appropriate books: "The New InterCourses: An Aphrodisiac Cookbook" by Martha Hopkins and Randall Lockridge and "The Seduction Cookbook: Culinary Creations for Lovers" by Diane Brown.

So fire away!

_______________________

Boston, Mass.: I'm inclined to make the Valentine's meal mentioned in today's article, but I'm wondering about a few substitutions. I'd like to use something besides blue cheese; would goat cheese work (though it doesn't melt well)? Would halibut be an adequate substitution for the salmon, as my husband doesn't like salmon?

Tony Rosenfeld: A Bostonian, just like me! As cold as it is up here today, we have to stick together. Regarding your questions, I think you're headed in a nice direction with your substitution of goat cheese for the blue cheese in that warm dip (no worries, it should melt just fine). Fresh ricotta would also work, too. As for a substitution for the fish, halibut is pretty mild and might get a little overpowered by that beet-horseradish sauce. Fresh tuna might be a better bet.

_______________________

3 Year Olds - Mission Possible?: The biggest party of the year in the preschool set happens next Wednesday (yes, even bigger than Christmas). I need some suggestions on a HEALTHY but TASTY snack to serve for a Valentine's Day party.

I'd like to make something in the shape of a heart. Maybe sandwiches? What kind of filling?

Any and all suggestions greatly appreciated!

Bonnie: Sandwich-wise, maybe you're onto something. Heart-shaped cutouts from slices of banana bread with a thin schmear of lowfat cream cheese (made pink? berry-flavored?) and thinly sliced of strawberries on top?

Chatters, insert your heartfelt suggestions here.

_______________________

Washington, D.C.: I'm intrigued by today's brownie recipe but blanched a bit when I saw it contained 4 cups of sugar. Yowza, makes my teeth hurt just thinking about it. Has anyone else on your staff tried this recipe & can vouch that it's not too sweet?

Joe: Yes we did (I personally ate way too many of them!), and no it's not. I resist overly sweet things, but this isn't one of them. Keep in mind that this recipe makes 24 very thick brownies...

_______________________

Kent Island, Md.: Hello, First I want to say that the food section has improved so much lately. I really look forward to it every week. Second, a question. I purchased a smoked ham from a place in Tennessee. It's smoked the old fashioned way, using just salt and smoke. My question is do I need to soak the ham like a country cured ham or do I just warm it up. The directions with the ham said simply slice and fry the slices. I plan to serve this at a party and sure don't want to ruin it! Thanks much.

Walter: Ham Man, Tom Calhoun, owner of Calhoun's Ham House in Culpeper, says that, most likely, it's best to soak the ham overnight in cold water and then cook it covered in water, in a covered pot, in the oven for, on average, four hours. Good luck.

Joe: And thanks for the kind words about the section -- glad you're enjoying it!

_______________________

Athens, Geo.: Hey there Free Rangers! Thanks for the wonderful recipes this week. The brownies look sinful and I can't wait to make them. For Valentine's day, I was planning on cooking a nice dinner for my husband but he is vegetarian and I am stumped for an impressive entree. I've recently done stir-frys and roasted veggie pot pies but I can't think of anything else to make. He's not big on cream sauces and he is getting a bit tired of pasta so I'm trying to think of a lighter dish with plenty of beautiful vegetables. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!

Tony Rosenfeld: Hi there in Athens! Risottos always make a nice vegetarian main course, especially if you're tiring of the pasta routine. You can borrow an idea from my salmon sauce, and use some beets in the risotto. I know, it might sound a little weird but their sweetness melds nicely with a rich risotto and gives the dish a pinkish Valentine's hue. To make this, cut the beets into a 1/2-inch dice and roast at 425F until they're tender (about 20 minutes). Then fold these softened beets into a basic Parmesan risotto about halfway through cooking.

_______________________

Washington, D.C.: For Valentines Day, I would really like to get my significant other a Cezve (Turkish coffee pot) and some really good Turkish coffee beans/grounds. Originally, I figured I would be able to find the coffee pot at Crate and Barrel or Williams-Sonoma and the coffee in the international section at the grocery; however, as V-Day is quickly approaching (and I'm trying to go buy these things), I'm discovering that these items aren't as easy to find as I anticipated.

I was wondering if you knew of any Mediterranean grocery or specialty stores in the DC metro area that sell such items. I have been able to find a few web sites online, but I would much prefer to actually go and pick everything out in person. Any help would be much appreciated!!!

Thank you!!!

Walter: The shop to head for is Mediterranean Bakery in Alexandria (374 South Picket St.; 703-751-1702) for Turkish coffee pots and beans as well as terrific Middle Eastern breads, pastries, nuts and an aisle of olive oil from around the world.

_______________________

Fairfax, Va.: Loved the chocolate recipes on Food section today.

Recently someone gave me a box of Syrian candied apricots. The chocolate manufacturer's name is Ghraoui.I am hoping you or the fellow chatters would help me in locating a store selling this in our area.

Thanks

Walter: Fairfax, this is another job for Mediterranean Bakery (see above) that has your Syrian apricots as well as other fruits.

_______________________

20011: Gotta post early because of a meeting this afternoon. Where's the best place in DC to buy bulk yeast? Or, do I just need to look harder at Whole Foods?

Thanks for your help!

Walter: Zip Code, You can buy Fermipan brand dry yeast (one pound, $5) at La Cuisine, 323 Cameron St., Alexandria; 703-836-4435.

_______________________

Arlington, Va.: I'm planning to cook a valentine's dinner myself. I'll probably start with a risotto (saffron? I'd try a Barolo risotto, but haven't made it before and don't want the wine and meal to effectively go down the drain if I screw up).

Anyhow... I was thinking of a brownie finish. got anything lighter perhaps? I was hoping for something with coffee as an ingredient, that I then might replace with an imperial stout. I was think of Old Rasputin from North Coast or Brooklyn's Black Chocolate Stout.

Alternatively, I might be tempted to replace the liquid in a brownie recipe with a sweet Belgian Framboise or Kriek . Any thoughts? Good resources for brownie recipes? I'm decent at substitutions in cooking, but not as much with baking.

Joe: Hey, Arlington -- I'll let Leigh handle the brownie substitution part of your question, but your idea for something that uses stout reminded me of a delicious cake from Suzanne Goin's "Sunday Suppers at Lucques" that I made with her (and then tested on my own) when I was in Boston, about this time last year. Calls for Guinness, but it would surely take well to either of your subs as long as the amount stayed the same. I don't have the nutritionals on it, so no promise that it's lighter in calories, but... it's a special day, right? BTW, she also has a recipe for a Guinness ice cream to accompany it; I can email you that if you send me a note to food@washpost.com.

Chocolate stout cake

January 18, 2006

Serves 12

In her cookbook, Suzanne Goin suggests this as the end to a St. Patrick's Day menu, but it also works well with the beef short ribs. Left unfrozen, the ice cream recipe makes a delicious custard sauce.

Butter (for the pan)

2 cups flour

3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 cup Guinness stout

1 cup molasses

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

4 eggs

1/2 cup granulatedsugar

1/2 cup dark-brown sugar

1 cup vegetable oil

1. Set the oven at 350 degrees. Lightly butter a 9-inch Bundt pan.

2. In a large mixing bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg.

3. In a large saucepan, combine the stout and molasses. Whisk them over medium-high heat until they come to a boil. Remove from the heat, and whisk in baking soda (it will foam dramatically).

4. In another large mixing bowl, whisk the eggs with the granulated and brown sugars until well combined. Whisk in the oil, then the molasses mixture.

5. Slowly pour the molasses mixture into the flour mixture, whisking slowly until just incorporated. Pour the batter into the pan.

6. Bake the cake for 30 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the center comes out mostly clean. Remove from oven and cover with a dry kitchen towel. Let the cake cool in pan for 30 minutes.

Leigh: If you want to short cut some experimenting, you could try adding beer in place of liquid for a box brownie. See how you like the combo before investing good beer and good ingredients for a suspect exploration.

_______________________

Washington, D.C.: Hi! No question. Just wanted to tell you that I loved the Valentine's interplay today. Love spicy chocolate and will definitely dive into the Sabayon and Brownie recipes. It's like the section was tailored to me.

Joe: Mom?

_______________________

State College, Penn.: I have a chicken broth dilemma. I use canned because making my own broth produces lots more chicken than we want to eat. But I just read the label on my usual brand (College Inn) and now I don't want to buy it anymore. Is there a better quality canned chicken broth?

Jane: Try buying the chicken broth or stock that comes in a box, not a can. There are several brands available (you can also get boxed turkey broth now). I like the taste better. I haven't directly compared the ingredient lists, but some of the organic boxed varieties might contain fewer things you find objectionable.

But my vote is to reconsider making your own. You won't end up with a bunch of extra meat if you start out with backs, necks, wings, etc., instead of a whole bird. And it will always, always taste better than store-bought.

Bonnie: College Inn sure seems to win its share of canned chix broth taste tests, including a Food section trial from 2001.

Sometimes I use Swanson's (in the box, as Jane mentioned) and doctor it with celery, carrot or lemongrass and a few whole peppercorns. You can really perk up the flavor that way.

_______________________

River City, Md.: For v-day, my husband and I don't like to go out since it's crowded and food or service might not be as good as any other night. We'll have a nice dinner out another night, say my birthday.

For V-day, we grill ourselves the finest steaks and eat them with a crackling fire in the fireplace. Plan to grill asparagus with the steak this year, and grill baby yukon gold potatoes, too.

Joe: Are you grilling them outside, or in? With that fireplace crackling, you could kill two birds with one stone. (Or two steaks with one fork?)

_______________________

Preschool party: How about cutting pizza dough with a heart-shaped cookie cutter and topping with sauce and cheese? Or, even easier - cutting an already-made pie with the cookie cutter (and snacking on the leftover scraps of course).

Bonnie: Like that.

_______________________

Washington, D.C.: For the vegetarian V-day question, how about heart-shaped polenta slices, pan-fried with a roasted red pepper or tomato or (insert red ingredient here) sauce?

Joe: And that.

_______________________

Washington, D.C.: Last week, someone asked about goji berries. I've heard that they are really good for you, and tasty to boot. How should I use them (other than throwing them on a salad)?

Leigh: You can use goji berries in the same ways you would dried cranberries. They are slightly more leathery, but would be a nice fruity-tart addition to muffins, pancakes, oatmeal, etc.

_______________________

Maple Sugar: Hi Crew,

I picked up some maple sugar (about 1 cup) from my recent trip to Quebec. What's a good recipe I can use to really get the most flavor out of the sugar? Thanks!

Bonnie: You'd get a double hit in this recipe, from cookbook author Elinor Klivans:

Romaine Salad With Blue Cheese, Maple-Glazed Pecans and Maple Mustard Vinaigrette

6 servings

The maple flavor in the vinaigrette is subtle. I owe credit for the simple technique for the maple-syrup pecans to my friend Karen Good.

For the pecans:

Vegetable oil for the pan

1 cup (4 ounces) pecan halves

3 tablespoons maple syrup

For the vinaigrette:

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons maple syrup

2 teaspoons Dijon-style mustard

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

6 tablespoons vegetable oil, such as corn or canola

For the salad:

10 cups romaine lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces (2 small heads)

3 ounces blue cheese, crumbled

For the pecans: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Lightly oil 2 baking sheets.

In a small bowl, combine the pecans and maple syrup and toss gently to combine. Spread the pecans in a single layer on 1 of the prepared baking sheets. Roast in the preheated oven, stirring once, until the syrup is bubbling vigorously, about 5 minutes. Immediately scrape the glazed pecans onto the other prepared baking sheet, spreading them in a single layer. Set aside to cool.

For the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, whisk together the garlic, shallots, salt, pepper, maple syrup, mustard and vinegar. Whisking constantly, slowly add the oil in a steady stream. Set aside.

For the salad: Place the romaine in a large bowl, drizzle with about half of the vinaigrette and toss to combine. Add as much of the remaining vinaigrette as desired and toss again. Divide among individual plates, sprinkle with the cheese and the reserved pecans and serve immediately.

Per serving: 361 calories, 6 gm protein, 18 gm carbohydrates, 31 gm fat, 11 mg cholesterol, 5 gm saturated fat, 357 mg sodium, 3 gm dietary fiber

_______________________

Arlington, Va. Do you know of any healthy alternative to Bologna? Thanks

Bonnie: Gonna play this straight. Try Gelbwurst. It's made from veal and pork, with less fat and sodium. The German Gourmet in Falls Church may have it, but we haven't been able to past a busy signal today; 703-534-1908.

_______________________

Washington, D.C.: I've been considering buying pasture-raised beef from a local farm. Is my understanding that this beef is technically not "organic" correct? Is it a meaningful distinction?

Walter: Pasture-raised beef can be organic if the farm has been certified organic. Some farms take the certification step, others find the process too time consuming and can't keep up with the required paperwork. As far as "meaningful" is concerned, take a drive out to the farm and see the operation for yourself.

_______________________

Cornmeal: Hi there! I bought stone-ground cornmeal to make cornbread. Can I also use it to make polenta? Thanks!

Bonnie: You betcha. Here's one way to use it:

Creamy Polenta With Portobello Mushrooms

6 to 8 servings

Francois Dionot uses less cornmeal than the usual cornmeal-to-liquid ratio to ensure that the polenta is creamy -- almost running off the spoon -- rather than sticky or heavy. He serves this dish as a first course; it also can be a side dish.

The mushrooms can be roasted up to one day ahead and spread with the parsley paste. Cover and refrigerate the mushrooms, then bake at 400 degrees for 8 to 10 minutes or until heated through. If serving with seafood, substitute clam juice for the chicken stock.

1 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

4 cloves garlic, chopped

1 medium shallot, chopped (about 2 tablespoons)

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 1/2 cups chicken stock (may substitute low-sodium chicken broth) or water

1 cup cornmeal (preferably stone-ground)

2 to 4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup grated Gruyere or Parmesan cheese (about 2 ounces)

3 large or 4 medium portobello mushrooms, stemmed

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

In a small bowl, make a paste of the parsley, garlic, shallot and olive oil. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

In a large pot over high heat, bring the chicken stock or water to a boil and slowly add the cornmeal, whisking to prevent lumps. Season with salt and pepper to taste, reduce the heat to medium-low so the polenta bubbles but does not spatter. Cook until it thickens, about 30 minutes, stirring often to prevent sticking. Add the butter and cheese and mix well.

Meanwhile, place the mushrooms, gill sides up, on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast large mushrooms for 10 minutes or medium mushrooms for 8 minutes. Pour off the juice. Cut the mushrooms into quarters and spread the parsley paste on the gill sides. Bake for 2 to 3 minutes until heated through.

Transfer the polenta to a large serving dish or individual plates and spoon the mushroom quarters on top. Serve hot.

Per serving (based on 8): 220 calories, 7 g protein, 18 g carbohydrates, 14 g fat, 17 mg cholesterol, 5 g saturated fat, 478 mg sodium (318 mg if using low-sodium broth), 4 g dietary fiber

_______________________

Alexandria, Va.: Do you know where I can buy Dutch-process cocoa? I've tried a big Safeway, a small Giant (haha), and My Organic Market, to no avail. Is there some secret source for the stuff? Thanks...

Leigh: Interesting. I find it at my Safeway (NW,DC) when I'm NOT looking for it. You may have luck at some cooking shops, such as Sur La Table or Williams-Sonoma. But, don't be afraid of subbing regular, sometimes labeled "natural" cocoa, in place of Dutch cocoa if you can't find it.

_______________________

Preschoolers: How about the chocolate grapes recipe posted a couple of weeks ago? It's quick and easy and it's a way to have Valentine's chocolate without too much chocolate -- not too unheatlthy. The chocolate coating is pretty thin -- kind like the candy shell on M&Ms.

Joe: Absolutely. That recipe (which seems to come up just about every week) is tailor-made for kids.

_______________________

Vegetarian man: Does he like Mexican? Rick Bayless books are great--and though meat heavy, there are a few vegetarian casseroles that are tasty and not too heavy.

Another vegetarian favorite for me at this time of year is any kind of stew--think tagines for something out of the ordinary.

Joe: Indeed, Bayless is a good way to go. With all the winter squash that's available now, you've got some prime stewing ingredients hearty enough for a meat-lover's palate. What about mushrooms? Bonnie ran a great recipe for baked mushrooms in a bag (from Jamie Oliver), and if you leave out the prosciutto, that could satisfy a carnivore.

washingtonpost.com: Recipe: Baked Mushrooms in a Bag and Recipe: Chocolate Grapes

_______________________

Tysons Corner, Va.: I love that people are staying home more for Valentines Day and cooking. We love, love, love the Intercourses cookbook that we received as an engagement gift. The wine poached pears and cherries over poundcake is to die for and our traditional dessert for the holiday! Thanks for the chats!

Joe: Glad to hear it!

_______________________

Bethesda, Md.: The sparks in the kitchen story made me spit out my coffee I was laughing so much. My partner cannot cook an omelet without burning it to a crisp and I've nearly mastered passive aggressive cooking. "Hon, don't you think it's ready?

Anyway, my question is this: the 4-course meal seems a bit, well, indulgent. What are some ways to trim it so that it doesn't balloon our waistlines?

Tony Rosenfeld: You're right, it is pretty rich. I do like to pull out all the stops on Valentine's, even adding an extra pat of butter if I can. Have no fear, though, there are definitely a couple of things you can do to lighten up this meal:

- For the warm pears, you could serve them alone without the blue cheese cream, or you could make the pears without the prosciutto wrapping and dip them in the blue cheese dip (this would be a perfect solution for vegetarians).

- You could halve the amount of Parmesan or fromage blanc in the soup if you like.

- I wouldn't suggest cutting too much out of the salmon; by nature it's a rich fish.

- As for the pots de creme, they're definitely quite a splurge. Your best bet might be to lower the serving size and share one of the pots together (so the recipe will yield 4 instead of 2 - finish off the second one on another night when you want a little treat).

_______________________

Silver Spring, Md.: Please, oh please tell me where in the DC area I might find REAL clotted cream (and no, that rubbishy paste-in-a-jar they sell at Whole Foods does NOT count). I've been to a few farmer's markets and gourmet food stores, but I haven't yet found any clotted or devonshire cream (and it's not the sort of thing one can make at home without one's own cow). I'm going mad for a real scone with jam and clotted cream. Do they even serve it at any tea rooms here abouts? Please help!

Jane: I can't find anyplace in the immediate area that sells non-jarred clotted cream. Vivian at the British Connection in Old Town Alexandria explains that fresh clotted cream, which is not pasteurized, goes downhill very fast and so wouldn't be cost-effective to sell. "It only lasts about two days," she says. "That's why everyone has it jarred. Everyone I know uses it in a jar." But here's an interesting idea: You can make your own by ordering the culture. GEM Cultures, a California business, sells it; go to www.gemcultures.com and check it out. And if any other chatters know where to find the real thing, please speak up.

_______________________

Alexandria, Va.: On Super Bowl Sunday at noon I cut a 1.63 pound piece of flank steak in half and put it in a crock pot and added the beer from a 12 ounce bottle. At serving time (9:00 p.m. since our daughter, a nurse, and her boyfriend had just arrived) my husband sliced the beef in thin slices against the grain. We put the meat on two pieces of toasted sourdough bread on each plate and topped each serving with sliced yellow onions that had been sauteed in paprika, and on top of that a dollop of warm sour cream with paprika sprinkled on it. Each serving was accompanied by a small dish of the broth from the crock pot to be used for dipping. We got rave reviews. I have had the recipe since it appeared in the November 1970 issue of Better Homes and Gardens and have tweaked it over the years. Our daughter said we should call the recipe Super Bowl Sandwiches.

Joe: Nice! Sounds much better than the sandwich I just had...

_______________________

Stuck at work: The brownies in today's food section sound fantastic!! However, my SO (hopefully soon to be my fiance!) was just advised to go on a wheat-free diet, so they aren't an option for me to make for her for Valentine's Day. Any suggestions for a wheat-free decadent VD dessert I can make or what I can substitute for the flour in the recipe today that will allow this recipe to fit the bill?

Thanks!

Leigh: I wouldn't bother revamping the brownie recipe without flour. It's kind of a crucial component. You can find gluten-free brownie mixes at vendors like Trader Joe's. Better yet, give up on the brownie idea and pour a velvety chocolate sauce over fruit.

_______________________

Steubenville,OH: RE: Pasture raised beef.

Some farms still feed commercial cattle food and some of it has additives you don't want.

If the farmer raises it on food grown without

being a GMO grain/other types of food. You probably will be okay. Ask if they put the animal in a barn and feed it for a few weeks before slaughter. If they don't you might end up getting meat you can't get into a pan with a whip and a chair it is so tough.

Joe: Some great points here. And it's true that some farm meat can be, well, pretty tough. I bought some pork cutlets from the farmers' market in Dupont a couple of weeks ago that were very thin but sure could've used a couple hours of brining.

_______________________

Washington, D.C. re: Asparagus Soup: Hello! The asparagus soup in today's Food section sounds out-of-this-world. I'm inquiring about the frommage blanc. The recipe says to mix it with the lemon juice and rosemary to get the 'lemon cream.' Is the cheese THAT soft that it is easily mixed with something? or is a hand mixer/food processor necessary? Thanks!

Tony Rosenfeld: Fromage blanc really is that soft - it has a texture similar to a thick yogurt. It's tangy and low in fat which makes it perfect for adding some brightness and texture to this pureed soup.

_______________________

Washington, D.C.: Was the congregation of humans dressed as cows on the streets of DC today part of a dairy convention? Do you all like milk with your brownies??

Joe: Our sources tell us it was a Ben & Jerry's promotion and was also aimed at raising awareness about animal cloning. Milk is great with brownies, natch -- but so is red zinfandel. I wouldn't try both, though.

_______________________

Athens, Geo.- Vegetarian Husband: Thanks so much to everyone for all the great suggestions! My husband does indeed like Mexican food but unfortunately isn't too fond of mushrooms or risotto (I like to think of him as being more of an extremely picky eater rather than a vegetarian :) The fried polenta sounds dynamite and so does using some winter squash. From all your suggestions, I should be able to put something nice together for him. Thanks again for all the great advice; this chat always brightens my work day.

Joe: At your service.

_______________________

Arlington, Va.: I emailed you a question earlier this week, but I'm going to see if this makes the chat.

Out scouting for houses, I come across my dream place here in Arlington, and something I've never seen before: a "wedgewood blue" colored Aga stove (or cooker, as I think they call it). Did some research on it, called a supplier, and I'm told that the thing is a $15,000 stove!

The house is, alas, still out of range, pun intended (if the owner is out there, and I'm sure you know who you are, PLEASE consider lowering your price just a bit more- we'd buy your house and LOVE your stove and I'd cook REALLY GOOD THINGS ON IT!), but I was wondering if any of you experts had ever used an Aga Cooker and what you thought about it.

Thanks.

An Arlingtonian Pining Away for that House

Bonnie: I feel your pain. A blue Agas would be a beautiful thing to behold in one's kitchen.

Frances Sellers, a veddy kind colleague who's the Health section editor, grew up cooking on one. She says that Agas are great -- wishes she could afford one now -- for the English climate because they are a constant source of heat. (And that means too hot for a D.C. summer.) The two ovens (unless you are talking about one of those super-fancy four-oven models) take a little getting used to. The top oven is hotter; the bottom can be used for keeping things warm, warming plates etc. They don't have glass fronts -- so you will learn by experience to use a timer and that if something DOES burn, you are not likely to find it until it is charcoal. (The smell doesn't escape!)

_______________________

Raspberry martini: Hi Rangers!

In keeping with the red/Valentine's Day theme, I'd like to concoct a raspberry martini to go with the wonderful recipes in the food section.

Thought I'd start with Stoli razberi and Chambord, but wasn't too sure what else to add or in what proportions?

Walter: We asked bartender Will Earls of Firefly in Dupont Circle for his take and that would be...the Raspberry-lemontini. In a shaker: one shot of Stoli Razberi, the juice of two lemons, a little simple syrup and a splash of sweet & sour mix; shake with ice and strain into a martini glass with a sugar-coated rim.

_______________________

Silver Spring, Md.: I hate to seem foolish, but where can I find the recipe for the brownies that everyone is talking about. My partner and I are tremendous chocolate lovers and this recipe just sounds sinful. I want to prepare them.

washingtonpost.com: Recipe: Man-Catcher Brownies

_______________________

Bonnie: Re bologna alternative in an earlier chat q today -- the German Gourmet does have Gelbwurst.

_______________________

Dutch processed cocoa: Wegmans has it...

Joe: And many other things!

_______________________

For the yeast seeker: You can also buy bulk yeast at the Takoma Park-Silver Spring Co-op (2 locations, guess where?).

Joe: Even with my new-to-DC-sense-of-geography, I can figure that one out!

_______________________

making stock: don't use chicken to make the stock, use the bones. best thing is to buy the chicken you DO use on the bone (meaning, buy a whole chicken and cut it up). Save the carcass in the freezer. When you have 2-3, make a big pot of stock from that. I swear by Julia Child's methods for stock in Mastering the Art of French cooking. She explains in detail the hows and whys, and it isn't at all hard. You'll be so glad you did it.

Joe: I also have great stock luck with a bunch of wings. Or you can ask the butcher to sell you some backs -- they always have tons of those from all the boneless/skinless breasts they're packaging up every day.

_______________________

Turkish Coffee: Don't forget Shemali's 3301 New Mexico Ave NW

Joe: And now we won't. Thanks!

_______________________

Washington, D.C.: I've been obsessed lately with the combo of baby spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, roasted pine nuts and feta. We've done it as a salad with rosemary balsamic vinaigrette, as a bed for chicken (with the spinach wilted) and as a fabulous risotto with chicken sausage. Other menu suggestions?

Tony Rosenfeld: I tend to like that combination quite a bit myself! That mixture goes wonderfully with pasta along with some Kalamata olives, chopped fresh thyme, and good extra-virgin olive. Just toss all these ingredients together as you would a salad in a large serving bowl, season generously with salt and pepper, and then toss with the pasta right after draining it. The warm pasta will gently wilt all the ingredients melding together all of these flavors. I also like sauteing this mixture of spinach, feta, and sun-dried tomatoes in a little bit of garlic and oil and then wrapping in phyllo to make pretty little roulades as a nibble for company.

_______________________

Transylvania: Garlic Bread -- I should know how to make something so simple but every time I try to make it to go with my 10 minute dinners -- I am always disappointed. Give me your best recipe for making such a simple attraction.

Bonnie: A slice of crusty bread with chewy, holey center. Light brush of olive oil. Cut a big garlic clove in half, and rub the flat side on the bread. Grill till bread edges are toasted.

_______________________

Lincolnia Lover: We're staying in and cooking dinner as well for V-day.. clams casino, big fat steak on the grill (outside!) and roasted sweet potato "fries". Odd combo, but we love it.

For the person asking for other brownie recipes, in a recent issue of Cooking Light there was a recipe for Irish Cream Brownies that were YUMMY! You can find the recipe on their web site.

Happy v-day to all, and merry cooking!

Joe: Doesn't sound odd at all. And thanks for the recipe idea.

_______________________

gluten-free dessert: Pears poached in red wine are a perfect V-day dessert. Make a rich creme anglaise, or drizzle with honey. She'll never miss wheat.

Joe: Absolutely, it's a classic for a reason.

_______________________

dutched cocoa: hershey's DARK cocoa is dutch process cocoa. most of the local stores carry it. if your doesn't, just ask them about it. most will order it.

Leigh: I think that is their commercial name for it. The label should still read "Dutch" somewhere on it, just to verify the equivalence.

_______________________

Washington, D.C.: Wheat-free decadent dessert: oooh, make individual cheesecakes with a graham cracker crust. They are oh so delicious, and more impressive than fruit, in my book.

washingtonpost.com: That's a luscious, creamy suggestion. Kim O. and I both love these brownies. I made them for my gluten-free grandmother and nobody in my family believed that they could be both vegan and wheat-free.

_______________________

Washington, D.C.: I bought some truffle paste on a lark. Tasted it yesterday and it doesn't seem to have that beautiful earthy depth that truffle oil does. The tube recommends squeezing it into pasta just before it's served, or mixing with butter to spread on bread. Any other ideas?

Tony Rosenfeld: Unfortunately, you're right that most truffle products (truffle oil, truffle butter, truffle paste) don't come close to matching that wonderfully intense, earthy essence of fresh truffles. As most of us don't have the resources to get our hands on the real thing, these truffle products are fine alternatives. I like to fold a tablespoon or so into soups, pastas, and risottos towards the end of cooking to give them a hit of richness. Truffle oil or truffle butter go particularly well in mashed potatoes and would also add some nice depth to the asparagus soup in the Valentine's menu today.

_______________________

Clifton, Va.: My experience is grass fed organic beef is great. Cost is kind of prohibitive. Both Home in Middleburg and The Organic Butcher in McLean carry it from local farms. Organic is certified organic and better tasting than the dry aged prime and about the same price.

Grass fed only I have found is more tender than granin finished and has more beef flavor.

Joe: Thanks, Clifton -- I've really liked grass-fed beef, too.

_______________________

Baking: I wanted to do some baking to send cookies out to friends this weekend. I am not much of a baker but found a couple of simple recipes. My question is about Silpats. I have heard they are necessary to bake cookies. But I only have a sheet pan and parchment paper. Should I invest in fancier baking tools? If so where in DC can I get them? I don't have a car.

Joe: They are certainly not necessary, especially if you're not baking all the time. Parchment paper (especially when it's cut into sheet-pan-size rectangles) is great, but it doesn't give you that same level of nonstick-ness as the silicone baking sheets -- something that with cookies now and then doesn't make that much difference. But I use mine to roll out pie dough on, too, something I do a lot of. You can find them at Sur La Table, Williams-Sonoma, and other kitchen stores. (And online, of course.)

_______________________

Washington, D.C.: I've been eying my roommate's tagine. How do I use it, and any ideas on what to cook?

Joe: Why, you make a tagine in a tagine! The word is both the cooking vessel, and the Moroccan stew that it's used for. We had a vegetable tagine recipe a couple years back you should look at...

washingtonpost.com: Recipe: Moroccan Vegetable Tagine.

_______________________

Brining: Hello!

I always think of brining as only being a Thanksgiving turkey kinda thing.

How would you brine pork chops and for how long?

Thank you

Jane: I tested a delicious pork chop recipe a few months ago that called for brining the chops overnight in 4 cups of apple cider, 3 tablespoons kosher salt, 6 allspice berries and a bay leaf. You bring those ingredients to a boil in a saucepan, then cool completely. Put the pork in a glass baking dish and pour the brine over. Cover and refrigerate overnight, turning the pieces once. When ready to cook, drain the chops, rinse and pat dry, then rub both sides with a little olive oil. Grill or broil to desired doneness. Those particular chops were served with very rich creamed leeks, but you could surely come up with other accompaniments that aren't quite so calorific.

washingtonpost.com: At Last, All Those Favorites in One Place

_______________________

Silver Spring, Md.: I would like to make dinner for my wife next Wednesday. I can arrange things so that I'm home 3-4 hours before she is. Can you recommend a 'romantic' menu that I could put together in that amount of time?

Thanks,

PS: The brownie recipe sounds great!

Joe: We gave you one in the section today: Tony's, which is very doable in the timeline you're facing. If you want to get started ahead of time, we gave ideas for that, too. Have fun!

_______________________

South Dakota: More garlic bread, roast the garlic with olive oil and kosher salt (if really in a time crunch "roast" it in the microwave for a few minutes), smash garlic and thin with oil, just a bit. Spread on bread and broil, maybe add some cheese on top, maybe not.

Tossing bread cubes with the thinned oil/garlic makes perfect croutons for a Caesar salad too.

Joe: O, garlic bread, how I love thee.

_______________________

Arlington, Va.: For a vegetarian main course, I'm fond of crepes, stuffed and rolled. Plenty of options... ricotta/mozzarella/parsley, spinach and mushrooms w/ bechamel, greens and ricotta. These are ones I make, but you could go with any number of veggies: winter squash, root veggies, and so on. Other rolled foods are good too, think of stuffing some swiss chard or other leaves.

Other than that, stacked or layered foods are good. A savory torte or galette is always a winner in my book. And the filling can usually be prepped well in advance.

Joe: Crepes -- why, of course!

_______________________

Anchovy paste: hi there--

I have a tube of anchovy paste. I know it is really salty stuff, but what can I use it for besides pasta?

Any ideas welcomed!

Walter: How about Caesar salad dressing.

_______________________

winter salads: Now that it's freezing out I have been craving lots of comfort food. But don't want to completely neglect healthy eating habits. Do you have any recipes for good winter salads I can pair with soups and stews?

Bonnie: How about Wheat Berries With Roasted Beets and Ginger-Curry Vinaigrette?

6 to 8 servings

We've converted a lot of anti-beet people with this hearty vegetarian salad. Roasting beets intensifies their natural sweetness, which provides a nice contrast against the earthiness of the wheat berries. Although there is a lot of chopping involved, there is ample opportunity to chop while the wheat berries are cooking and the beets are roasting.

-- From "Once Upon a Tart," by Frank Mentesana and Jerome Audureau

8 cups cold unsalted water

1 1/2 cups wheat berries*

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 pound red beets, scrubbed, ends trimmed

1 tablespoon olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/2 medium red onion, finely diced

4 celery stalks, cut into 1/4-inch thick slices

1/2 cup dried cranberries (may substitute dried cherries)

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

About 3/4 cup Ginger-Curry Vinaigrette (recipe follows)

1/2 cup (about 2 ounces) pecans, toasted* and coarsely chopped

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

Place the water and wheat berries in a large saucepan over medium-high heat and bring them to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium or medium-low and simmer, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the wheat berries are tender but still chewy, 30 to 35 minutes. (The only way to test them is to take one out and bite into it.) Drain the wheat berries in a colander and dump them into a bowl large enough to accommodate the entire salad. Drizzle the vinegar over the hot wheat berries and toss to combine. Set aside to cool to room temperature.

Meanwhile, cut the beets in half. Place the beets on a baking sheet, drizzle with the oil, sprinkle with salt (about 1/4 teaspoon) and a few turns of freshly ground black pepper and toss to coat. Then turn the beets cut-side down (to get a nice brown side) on the sheet and transfer to the oven. Roast the beets for 30 to 45 minutes, until the beets are soft when pierced with a fork. Remove the baking sheet from the oven, let the beets rest until they are cool enough to handle, then, using a small pairing knife, peel the skin and cut the beets into 1/2-inch dice and set aside.

Scatter the onion, celery and cranberries over the wheat berries. Sprinkle the cinnamon over the salad and toss to combine. Drizzle about 1/2 cup of the Ginger-Curry Vinaigrette over the salad and toss it with a big spoon or your hands. Add additional vinaigrette as necessary. (May cover and refrigerate for up to several hours.)

Scatter the pecans and beets over the salad and toss gently to combine. (If you're going to wait a long time before serving it, wait to add the beets since they will stain the wheat berries and turn the entire salad purple.) Serve at room temperature or chilled.

*Note: To toast nuts, spread them on a baking sheet and place them in a 350-degree oven, shaking the pan occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes. Watch carefully as the nuts will burn quickly.

Per serving (based on 8): 212 calories, 2 gm protein, 16 gm carbohydrates, 17 gm fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 2 gm saturated fat, 317 mg sodium, 3 gm dietary fiber

Ginger-Curry Vinaigrette

(Makes about 1 cup)

This flavorful dressing can turn just about any grain into a tasty salad.

Juice from 1 lemon

11/2 to 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, or to taste

2 to 3 tablespoons curry powder, preferably Madras

1-inch piece fresh ginger root, peeled and finely grated

1 clove garlic, minced

3/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste

A few turns freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup olive oil

In a bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, vinegar, curry powder, ginger, garlic, salt and pepper. Whisking constantly, slowly add the oil in a slow, steady stream, whisking until the mixture is emulsified. Taste and adjust the ingredients accordingly.

Per 1-tablespoon serving: 63 calories, trace protein, 1 gm carbohydrates, 7 gm fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1 gm saturated fat, 146 mg sodium, trace dietary fiber

_______________________

Downtown, D.C. : Wow, I don't know what rock I have been living under but I just discovered this chat today! Fantastic. I love food and cooking! What drew me to it was the delicious dishes that Tony proposed as a simple romantic meal! Everything sounds fantastic and I definitely want to give them a whirl. I think I want to try the salmon with the beets but was wondering if I wanted to make a meal out of it what side dishes would you recommend to compliment? Another veggie, starch/carb, etc? Thanks so much! Now I know where I'll be on Wed. afternoons.

Tony Rosenfeld: Thanks for your kind words about the menu! There are quite a few things you could make as sides for the salmon, though I like the ease of roast potatoes. Try roasting some tiny creamer potatoes (or fingerling potatoes if you can find some at the market) - sprinkle them generously with salt, pepper, olive oil, and a chopped fresh herb like rosemary or thyme, set them on a baking sheet and bake in the same 450F-oven as the salmon until they're tender and lightly browned, about 25 minutes (note, you'll want to start them about 10 minutes before the salmon). As for something green, I might suggest filling out the meal with some sauteed spinach or steamed green beans.

_______________________

Joe: Thanks so much for all your questions today! What a great group. Hope we were able to shed some light into your kitchens...

And now for our book winners: The River City steak-griller, just in case she wants some ideas for other ways to celebrate, will get "The Seduction Cookbook," and the chatter concocting a raspberry martini will get "The New InterCourses Cookbook." Just send your mailing information to food@washpost.com, and we'll get you your books, just in time for V-Day.

Until next week, happy cooking, eating, reading, and loving.

_______________________

Editor's Note: washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Live Online discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions. washingtonpost.com is not responsible for any content posted by third parties.