Ask Tom
Philadelphia and Courtesy

Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, February 28, 2007 11:00 AM

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. You can access his Postcards from Tom to read his recommendations for other cities, read his dining column and the Weekly Dish or read transcripts of previous "Ask Tom" chats. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

The transcript follows.

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Tapas: Are there any other decent Tapas restaurants in the DC area other than Jaleo? While I love Jaleo, I'm looking for an alternative. La Tasca does not meet the requirement.

Thanks

Tom Sietsema: One of my favorite sources for Spanish small plates is the romantic Taberna del Alabardero on I St. NW.

Happy Wednesday, everyone.

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Washington, D.C.: I am going to miss tomorrow's chat, but I wanted to post this even though you will likely exclude it.

Stoney's, where to begin? First of all, why are you wasting your time reviewing Stoney's? Do you honestly think this is a place that needs to be reviewed? It is a neighborhood bar with traditional bar fare, it is not a food destination. I am sure you think you are being objective by lowly rating a place you have been praising for years, but I disagree. Your poor review is primarily based on the fact that the new Stoney's is not similar enough to the old smelly dive it used to be and does not have the same old employees? Yeah, I know you referenced some problems with the food, but that is not the primary reason you gave it one star. I am sorry, but this review is misguided and, in my opinion, should not have been published. I respect your work, and for the most part, value it, but I think your personal views got in the way of your professionalism in this case. You should consider yourself lucky if Mr. Harris decides to serve you another grilled cheese.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for your comments and the opportunity to defend that review.

I wrote about Stoney's because 1) it has a long history in Washington, 2) its fans were curious about it, 3) it relocated to a heavily-trafficked neighborhood and 4) I like to mix things up in the Dining column. Who wants a steady diet of upscale restaurants? Not me. Plus, there are several compelling reasons to check out the new Stoney's, the draft beer list and the grilled cheese sandwich among them.

Bottom line: Stoney's merited a half-page of ink and publicity.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Stoney's.

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Washington, D.C.: This is more a general comment based on part of the chat last week that pointed out dirty server hands. I have worked in restaurants for many years and I find it amazing how many patrons will use the restroom and walk right back out without washing their hands. I know there are signs displayed that note all employees must wash their hands, which is great. But we touch what you touch. Think about it next time you use the restroom or blow your nose. So be considerate and wash your hands, people!

Tom Sietsema: Amen!

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Kensington, Md.: I had probably the worst dining experience in the 11 years I've lived in DC area, last Saturday night at Bebo Trattoria.

I had made a reservation at 7, for four people several weeks ago. We arrived together, checked in at the desk, and were told to have a drink in the bar because we were early. As we had cocktails, we noticed that people who came in after us were being seated. When we went to check on our table, I was told that they didn't know our whole party was here. Service was incredibly, painfully slow. Three of us order the trout special and were told some time later that they were out and we needed to pick something else, yet the waiter only spoke to one of my guests and handed her the menu. We weren't sure if they ran out for everyone or just for her. Service was so slow, that if they had taken our order earlier, perhaps, we wouldn't have had to select something else. I picked a pasta dish and asked that the red pepper be held because of an allergy. One of guests had the mussels for an appetizer and found in his broth, a 100% cotton tag from...we don't know. My pasta dish came out with the red pepper so I sent it back and it never came back. My three dining partners ate slow and still nothing. I spoke with a gentleman who offered me free dessert and no apology. Then a woman who also seemed to also be a manager, came by to see how our meal was, when I ran down the list of issues she said that she wished she would have known earlier and that it is a Saturday night and something to the effect that they are so busy, it's hard to keep everything straight. My feeling is, it's a Saturday night, the restaurant should be working like clockwork. Needless to say, I won't be eating there again, nor would I recommend it to anyone. Ever.

Tom Sietsema: I wish I could say yours is the rare complaint regarding poor service at the youthful Italian restaurant. Alas, it is one of many. I don't understand how such chaos continues to plague Bebo after all this time -- and all this unfortunate publicity.

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Denver, Colo.: Tom,

I'm frequently in DC on business and really appreciate your chats to help me spend my expense account dollars (sometimes a lot, sometimes more carefully).

I'll be in the Scott Circle / Logan Circle area this time for a week; where should I be eating in that part of the District?

Much thanks

Tom Sietsema: Among the places I gravitate to most often in that part of town are the spare and stylish Rice and the funkier Cafe Saint-Ex (which is losing its head chef, I report in today's Weekly Dish). And the recent arrival of chef Michael Hartzer, late of Ray's the Classics in Silver Spring, gives me fresh reason to explore the arty Viridian next to Studio Theater.

washingtonpost.com: The Weekly Dish on chef Barton Seaver.

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Chevy Chase, Md.: Do you know the whereabouts of John Richardson, formerly owner and chef the now-defunct South Beach restaurant in Bethesda?

Tom Sietsema: I do not. Chatters?

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Old Town Alexandria, Va.: Hi Tom,

A friend told me that he heard that Sushi Ko is opening an outpost in Old Town. Have you heard anything about this and if so, any details you can share?

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: A spokesman for the venerable Sushi-Ko in Glover Park says the restaurant is looking in Alexandria for a space to open a carry-out operation that will include bento boxes and such, but only a few seats and no liquor license. More details should be forthcoming in the next month or so.

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Perplexed in Washington, D.C.: Tom: Thanks as ever for these chats. I'm perplexed by waiters who offer diners specials without mentioning the prices. Why would they do that? Some restaurants--usually mid-range ones--always do ("our special today is roasted oak leaves for $6.95"), but most don't, and since they are offering a product for sale, I don't know why not. Your thoughts and recommendations on this?

Tom Sietsema: I've addressed this issue before. Here's an Ask Tom column, from several years ago, that deals with your gripe. I think it bears reprinting:

Ask Tom

They'd been looking forward to their anniversary dinner at Al Tiramisu recently, but for reader Linda Sundberg and her husband, the meal ended on a sour note. "Because this was a special occasion," she writes, "we made the mistake of not asking for the prices on the specials." It cost them: $18 for a lobster salad, $40 for a veal chop -- prices that were nearly double the cost of the appetizers and entrees, respectively, on the regular menu. When I called the restaurant to ask about the disparity, manager Roberto Deias referred me to the bold print at the bottom of the menu, which tells diners to "please ask the waiter about daily price" of specials. He went on to explain that the restaurant gave up quoting the prices of specials a year ago, after several patrons complained to their waiters. ("What, you don't think I can afford a meal here?" one guest reportedly griped.) One simple solution to everyone's problem: Have the restaurant print its list of specials, price included.

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Tom,

What is the spiciest dish you've eaten lately and where did you have it?

Thanks

Tom Sietsema: Short ribs heaped with blazing red chilies at Guyi Hunan in Shanghai, in November. I recall drinking vast quantities of beer that night ...

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Best pizza?: I say it's 2 Amys, but I know many who are devoted to Pizza Paradiso. What's your vote?

Tom Sietsema: The former gets my vote.

washingtonpost.com: Review of 2 Amys.

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Columbia, Md.: Tom,

As a restaurant/food critic, I have to ask your opinion about this spat between NYC restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow and the NYT's Frank Bruni; Chodorow took out a full page ad in the NYT to rebuke the 0-star review Bruni gave Kobi Club. And...did this ever happen to you?

Tom Sietsema: I've had disgruntled restaurateurs THREATEN to take out ads, but they were subsequently talked out of it by their publicists. (Or so publicists have told me.)

Chodorow's rant cost anywhere from $30,000 to $80,000 to print, according to estimates in the press. In his letter to the editor of the NYT Dining section, Chodorow claims, among other things, that the negative review hurt his hard-working staff more than it hurt him. So why didn't he choose to distribute all that dough to his crew, I wonder?

The restaurateur went on to announce that he would begin to write reviews, following Mr. Bruni's, to give readers of (Chodorow's new) blog the "real" scoop on a place. As if he's going to go anonymously! Or multiple times! Or he would dare to criticize a peer!

Finally, I seriously doubt Chodorow would have questioned the critic's credential's had the review been favorable.

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Washington, D.C. re: restaurants in Philadelphia: Dear Tom,

I sent in this question last week and now everything is getting a little late, but maybe you have a last minute idea.

We are going to Philly this weekend and I was not able to get a reservation at Vetri (No surprise there) and when I called the concierge at our hotel (the 4 seasons) he went on open table and started to read me a list of what was available. I could have done that and I did not really think this was the kind of service that a concierge should be providing.

Anyway - based on this we have reservations at Alma de Cuba, but I am kind of luke warm about it. Do you have a couple more suggestions that would be places with great food, not really fancy (my husband won't really want to wear a jacket if he does not have to), but good service? We are not fussy about which kind of cuisine, so long as the food it good. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Did you check out my recent Postcard from there? I love Marigold Kitchen, which is a BYOB, and Matyson, also a bring-your-own-booze place, a good second choice.

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Washington, D.C.: So who's got the best burger in the city right now? Palena? Central? Agraria? (Yeah, I know, one of these things is not like the other...)

Tom Sietsema: I haven't tried the burger at Central, but I can only hope it's in the same league as Palena's and Colorado Kitchen's.

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Southwest D.C.: Re: prices on specials and other rants.

All too often, servers don't even recite the daily specials, if they're rushed or for some reason they don't "take a shine" to our table. They hand over a menu and then hover until you decide; or they hand the menu and then disappear. I don't always know that there ARE daily specials until I see a gorgeous plate being delivered to the next table that wasn't on MY menu. Now, I make it a practice to ask, "Are there any specials that aren't on the menu?"

Tom Sietsema: Good for you.

Be careful what you wish for, though: The servers at the new Il Mulino downtown recite the restaurant's entire list of specials, which is, like, a dozen dishes long. Epic! I was tempted to invite my waiter to sit down when he was several minutes into his speech and it looked like he wasn't going to finish anytime soon.

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Fairfax, Va.: Can I offer up a plea to restaurants in the area? If you are going to have a children's menu, complete with crayons and great plastic cups with covers, please oh please have changing tables in your restrooms. It drives me batty when I find myself kneeling on a bathroom floor to change a diaper at a place that is making it a point to attract families with young children.

Tom Sietsema: Fair enough. (And I hope we haven't spoiled TOO many lunches by posting this ...)

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Washington, D.C.: I know this is a topic from past chats, and I know it's probably not used in better dining circles, but I can't stand the use of the word "fixins." Unless you're eating out of a chuckwagon one shouldn't be using this word.

Tom Sietsema: Is "fixings" fair? Or do you prefer "toppings?"

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H St, NE: Hi Tom,

My boyfriend and I had a lovely meal at popular Capitol Hill restaurant this weekend. The desserts were disappointing, though. I don't know if other restaurant patrons agree, but I like simple, homey desserts. I think that any restaurant (even those without a dedicated pastry chef) could offer a decent cake, a seasonal pie or two, and a plate of warm cookies. The folks at Majestic Cafe understood this very well. Just a thought . . .

Tom Sietsema: I'm in your corner. Forget creme brulee! Ban the ubiquitous molten chocolate cake! Dare to serve other than tiramisu!

More than a few of us would love to see seasonal fruit pies and other than chocolate cake on dessert menus. A few places that understand your sentiment include Buck's Fishing & Camping, the Tabard Inn and Vidalia, all in Washington.

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Viridian: Hi Tom-

Speaking of Viridian, was that the place that you posted a tasting menu from 2 or 3 chats ago? It was something like $28 for 3 courses.....I am just wondering if that is an ongoing option or just a short promotional thing they were offering.

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: The menu you refer to is from Felix (and I was remiss in posting it in its entirety, because the result looked like a promo for the place).

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Bethesda, Md.: Hi Tom,

What is/are your recommendation(s) for the best tasting Mexican food in the area?

Thanks. Always love the chats.

Tom Sietsema: Not long ago, I went to a private birthday party in the space in Adams Morgan that is poised to become Casa Oaxaca. Judging from the spread I got to sample (as an anonymous guest, I should make clear), we're in for a real treat.

washingtonpost.com: The Weekly Dish on Casa Oaxaca.

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Washington, D.C.: A word in Bebo's defense. At least Donna is devoted to using the finest ingredients. In other restaurants, the tag in the mussels might have been a polyester blend instead of "100-percent pure cotton."

Tom Sietsema: Hahahahaha

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Columbia Heights, Washington, D.C.: I would like to take exception to the chatter who--in regards to the Stoney's review--said "Do you honestly think this is a place that needs to be reviewed? It is a neighborhood bar with traditional bar fare, it is not a food destination."

In a city of this size, there seems to be a "food destination" (Central, BLT Steak, Oyamel) opening every other week. Lots of ink is used to comment on these, from articles about when they're opening, to early reviews, to full reviews, and finally endless chats about good/bad experiences with them. However, the writing spent on these is not in proportion to a large number of diner's habits.

Part of a job of any critic is to point out hidden gems in the rough, both as a way to expose people to restaurants beyond the scope of press-releases, but to also provide dining options for non-special occasions. We wouldn't want a theatre critic to only review the touring musicals that come through town, nor would we want a film critic to only talk about summer blockbusters; we want them to point out productions in smaller, local theatres or movies that don't get the publicity.

I would ENCOURAGE reviews of places that the chatter would refer to as not being traditional "food destinations". I think Mr. Sietsema does a commendable job of this, especially given the limited space he is allotted.

Tom Sietsema: Your post just made my day. Thank you.

When I took this job, I remember telling my superiors that I didn't want to limit my reviews to high-end places, and that if I found good food in a bowling alley, I'd be writing about it.

Writing about the obvious is easy. Ferreting out diamonds in the rough is the critic's (delicious) challenge.

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Wheaton, Md. - Porterhouse?: ciao Tom,

in your reviews you often mention the porterhouse cut when discussing steak. Is this your favorite type of steak, or is it just a good steak to compare restaurants?

Do you always get a porterhouse when you order a steak, or does it depend upon your mood? Please elaborate a bit on your steak selection if you will, I'm just curious as to what goes into "how Tom selects a meal". thanks much.

-Wheaton

Tom Sietsema: I didn't realize I was ordering so many porterhouses! But to answer your question: Yes, I like the cut and yes, it's a popular one with steak aficionados. But I also enjoy less expensive pieces of meat, including flank and hanger. The cut that I'm least partial to is the filet mignon, which tends to highlight tenderness rather than meaty flavor.

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Arlington, Va.: A compliment and a question:

I want to compliment Del Merei for a recent wonderful meal. They deliver great food every time and I always look forward to going back.

My question is, where would you recommend for a casual dinner in downtown DC on a Saturday night? Thoughts so far include Matchbox, Ella's, Hanks...what am I missing?

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Bar Pilar, Creme Cafe, Sonoma, El Chalan ...

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Arlington, Va.: Tom,

On servers reciting specials: this is the 21st century, restaurant people. Print out your daily menu (with prices!). Who can remember a bunch of hastily-recited specials.

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Second, unrelated item: I'm a big fan of mom-and-pop ethnic eateries. Tyler Cowen, the George Mason University economist and food maven, publishes an online ethnic dining guide. I've found it very helpful, if quirky, and I wonder what you think of it. Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Cowen certainly gets around, but from what I've seen of his "reviews," they are thumb-nail sketches rather than detailed bulletins.

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Baltimore, Mad.: I had to laugh at the complaint about the Stoney's review. It wasn't that long ago that you were being lambasted for ONLY reviewing "destination" restaurants.

Speaking as an out-of-towner who visits the District regularly, I find that your reviews present a very useful cross-section of the DC dining scene. Keep up the good work.

Tom Sietsema: One thing I've learned in this job is that you can't please everyone. (Another complaint I get is Virginians complaining I spend too much time in Maryland and Marylanders who gripe about the ink I give Virginia restaurants. The reality is, I go out of my way to include restaurants in both jurisdictions each month. Obviously, not everyone is reading very closely!)

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Washington, D.C.: When is Casa Oaxaca opening? As a neighbor, I'm eagerly awaiting its opening as another alternative to Lauriol.

Tom Sietsema: Hopefully in a few weeks. Which, in my experience, means sometime in April.

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Washington, D.C.: Dear Tom: I keep reading about places that have "community tables," but I don't understand them. How do such tables work?

Tom Sietsema: Typically, they are long tables that can accommodate a flock of diners, not all of whom are eating together (except that they are, in this instance).

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Washington, D.C.: Went to PX this weekend. What a nice change in pace. The service was excellent and the cocktails were some of the best I've ever tasted. And any place that flies a pirate flag is fine by me!

Tom Sietsema: For the uninitiated, a raised black flag on the street corner means the speakeasy is open for business.

washingtonpost.com: Review of PX.

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Curious: What's your feeling about tasting menus? Are they usually a safe bet, giving a good indication of the restaurant as a whole, or do they allow a mediocre restaurant to show off a few good skills to entice diners away from their weak areas?

Tom Sietsema: On the contrary, tasting menus are a chance for the chef to show off his signature dishes and/or best work and an opportunity for the diner to sample a range of the kitchen's output in manageable form (portion sizes tend to be scaled back when a parade of dishes are involved).

I tend to order tasting menus when I'm on the road and alone, for the reasons I specify and since I might be eating at places only once. Here at home, tasting menus involving more than four courses -- seemingly endless plates of food -- tend to turn me off.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Tom-

I tried out Oyamel the other day. MAN the prices have gone up from the old location!! You used to get three little tacos, then they changed to only two (at the same price), and now you only get ONE teeny tiny taco! outrageous.

Tom Sietsema: Welcome to Penn Quarter!

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When picking a place to review. . .: I know you eat at a place more than once if you are going to review it because you want to taste most everything and sometimes a place can have good or bad days depending on a number of factors. But how many places do you visit that you decide are not review worthy and how many times do you visit them if, after one meal, you think they are not going to be review worthy? On an average, how many places do you go to to for each review published?

Tom Sietsema: I've gone to restaurants as many as three times before deciding they aren't worth the attention of readers. Typically, however, if an otherwise littleknown spot is inferior, I'll just move on after a single visit. For the column in the Magazine, I visit restaurants at least three times before putting fingers to keyboard, so if I do a double review (as I have several times lately), that adds up to a minimum of six meals for a single column.

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Old Town, Va.: So what's the cuisine going to be for Cathal's third restaurant? I heard a rumor that he's opening a third in Old Town.

Tom Sietsema: I confirmed the rumor in a recent Weekly Dish column. His next project is the Majestic.

washingtonpost.com: The Weekly Dish on the Majestic.

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Washington, D.C.: Hey Tom,

Thanks for your chats - never miss them! My question: I often order wine by the glass, and every once in a while the wine I get is from a bottle that's been open way too long (the night before?). The wine's bad, or at least not worth the $9+ per glass. Is it inappropriate to ask for a glass from a fresh bottle? (i.e., : "I'll have a white wine from a bottle that's not yet open)

Any tips are appreciated - thanks!

Tom Sietsema: I hear you, Washington! I encounter the same problem on a fairly regular basis. Generally, when I point out a faded wine, the server returns with a glass from a freshly opened bottle. (I like restaurants that serve their wines by the glass from the bottle and at the table, which also allows me to inspect the label.)

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Arlington, Va.: Ray's The Classics is apparently no longer serving the pan fried chicken, my main reason for going there, because the owner says that it is so popular that it takes up the time of kitchen staff. I suspect that it is gone because it was the former chef's recipe. Anyway, where are other places that I can get this dish?

Tom Sietsema: I can't explain the disappearance of the fried chicken at Ray's the Classics, but I can point you in the direction of another worthy bird at the new Central Michel Richard downtown.

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Bethesda, Md.: Hi Tom,

I was near Urban Burger Last night and had time to kill before seeing a client and stopped in for dinner. You were right on the money with your review of them. They were friendly, the food was very good and I enjoyed looking around at all the decorations while I waited for my food. Thanks for the recommendation. I'll be going back to Urban Burger again.

Chris

Tom Sietsema: I'm so glad to hear that! The owners have worked very hard to make their burger joint as enticing and inviting as possible.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Urban Burger Company.

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A servers response to a plea: Fair enough. But what about places that are family friendly, changing table included and patrons change diapers AT or ON the table?!?! In the middle of a nice restaurant! As a server, I pointed out we have changing tables and to please do so in the restroom and was shorted a tip because of my "discourtesy." Is there a polite way to point out the fact you're ruining everyone's dining experience and causing more work for the bussers?

Tom Sietsema: Eeeeewwwww.

"Let me show you to the bathroom, ma'am. I'm sure you don't want to disrupt anyone's meal."

See you next week, everyone.

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