Talk About Travel
How to pass time on the tarmac, San Francisco, London bed-and-breakfasts, Amsterdam and more.

The Flight Crew
Washington Post Travel Section
Monday, February 26, 2007 2:00 PM

The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of ... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.

We know you have a choice in online travel forums, and speaking for the entire Flight Crew, we want to thank you for flying with us.

You may also browse an archive of previous live travel discussions. For daily dispatches, check out Travel Log, the Travel section's new blog.

You may submit a question before or during the show.

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John Deiner: Miss us?
Greetings to this week's jaunt with the Travel section Flight Crew, back after a week off because of the Presidents' Day holiday. We have a full team this week, folks, so ask us anything. If we don't have an answer, we'll fake it.
(And are you all well rested after the Oscars? Scorsese wins Best Director? Wow. What saw THAT coming?)
Anyhow, here's your job this week. After two bad weeks for JetBlue and endless delays for its passengers, we were wondering how you keep yourself occupied on either long flights or those aforementioned endless delays. Sleeping is always an option, but what else do you do to pass the time? Any secrets? Nonstop Sudoku? "War and Peace"?
Best reply gets a pretty good piece of junque: a spa package from VisitCalifornia.com, including soap and lotion and a bath fizzy and a toothbrush, and all in a see-thru TSA-friendly packet.
And away we go . . .

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Washington: Cindy -- just wanted to say that I loved your San Francisco article with Amy Tan last month. We were there in early February and hit the Ferry Marketplace and a few other places you recommended. We also found out about San Francisco City Guides, which runs more than 30 free walking tours around the city. We did the Haight-Ashbury and Chinatown ones, and they were great. The guides are volunteers -- so they actually want to be there -- and share lots of great info with you. I highly recommend these tours. I was wondering if you knew offhand of other cities with similar free walking tour programs? Thanks!

washingtonpost.com: Amy Tan's San Francisco: Dim Some and Then Some (Post, Jan. 21)

Cindy Loose: Thanks. It would be hard not to enjoy San Francisco in my opinion.
As to the free walks: The idea of volunteers taking folks around their city started I believe in Chicago, and other cities have started to copy the idea, although I'm not sure which ones. I knew San Francisco had some volunteers associated with individual hotels, but didn't realize they'd expanded it. Someday I should probably try to do a roundup. In the meantime, best thing to do is ask the tourism bureau of the city you're visiting before you go.
How did you find your free walking tours? By the way, Chicago even provides a free bus and subway ticket and offers tours on every imaginable theme.

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Luggage Question: I used to be one who doesn't panic over luggage -- often I have had luggage arrive late and I accept it as a risk of air travel. The last time I flew, one of my bags did not arrive; it arrived on the next flight, and I did not panic. Yet from Saturday evening until Wednesday, checking on the bag entailed a 20 to 30 minutes calling the airlines, only to be told time and time again that the bag had arrived on the next flight and given to a delivery company, then put on the phone with the delivery company, who then insisted the bag had been delivered. Yet the front desk insisted each time that the bag had not been delivered. Obviously, then one begins to panic. I was just wondering: how does a delivery company lose track of a bag for four days? Who does one complain to? The parties keep insisting it is someone's else's fault and they won't listen to you. Eventually it was established it was the delivery company's fault.

Steve Hendrix: You complain to the airline. They are the ones responsible for getting you AND your luggage to destination you paid for. Things go wrong, and it's fine for them to subcontract out the big job of delivering tardy bags. But that doesn't mean they sub-contract the responsibility, as much as they'd like to.
(I have to add that the relatively few times I've had bags go awry they've been quickly reunited with me. And I'll never forget how American Airlines had my toilet kit driven 50 miles into remote Alberta after I left it in the lavatory).

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Washington: Flight Crew! I tried last week but will give it another try -- where would you take your retired parents on a vacation? I was thinking Puerto Rico or Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. We want to go mid-April for a week. My parents love the beach but they also love discovering different cultures and food. Any suggestions, links, Web sites you can point me to? Thank you.

Cindy Loose: I think Puerto Rico is a great choice for a combo of beach and culture. San Juan has wonderful historic sites and great beaches too. Plus you can get direct flights so you can get their quickly and cut in half your chance of delays compared to a connecting flight.
Puerto Vallarta not so much. The beaches are just okay in my opinion, and it's pretty far from Washington, and the resorts are very much removed from the culture. If you were yearning for Mexican culture I'd instead check out flying into Cancun then driving down the coast a ways so you can see the ruins at Tulum and Coba, and there is a cultural center down that way that's a little Disney like but still gives a taste of the culture. I like the small resorts in Tulum, as opposed to the big all-inclusives nearby in the so-called Riveria Maya.

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Annandale, Va.: I'm trying to catch a few days in London at the end of April and I started looking online at modest hotels and bed-and-breakfasts in the city. A lot of the better rates seem to be in the Kings Cross area. Now, I'm fairly familiar with Kings Cross in Sydney, and I don't know that I'd want to stay there, but what about London? Any other suggestions for areas to stay in London also would be appreciated.

Gary Lee: We are familiar with the Kings Cross area in London and can recommend it as safe and convenient to tube and bus links. We can also recommend Earl's Court and the Gloucester Road neighborhoods as two areas with decent affordable lodging that are within easy reach of the center.
Anyone else have tips for London lodging or neighborhoods with affordable hotel options?

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Washington: Happy Monday Flight Crew! A group of us (co-ed and early 30s) are planning a trip to Vegas in July. Do you have recommendations for which hotel we should stay in? We are looking for a hotel on the strip with a nice pool and clubs. Thanks!

John Deiner: Hey, Wash. Man, no shortage of clubs around Vegas, but good pools? Now, that's a popular question.
Vegas is July in hot, hot, hot, and pools are really a big deal that time of year. I've said it here before: The Mandalay Bay Pool is a crowded nightmare. I'd opt for the pools at the Mirage, Caesars, Bellagio or Wynn. The pools at the Hard Rock and Red Rock Canyon are really wonderful, but both of those properties are off the Strip.
One of the nicest, most fun pools is the one at the Flamingo, and the rates are likely to be less there than at the other properties I mentioned. And every place is about 12 steps from a good club scene. Also, there's a new pool at the Gold Nugget that is said to be pretty darned cool.

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Arlington, Va.: Flight Crew -- my layovers have been in the two--to-three-hour range. My favorite way to pass a layover is to find some free airport real estate (i.e., empty corner of a lounge) and do the standard yoga stretches. That way my body gets a breather from sitting in one position for a long period of time and relieves some of the tightened muscles.

John Deiner: Good stuff, Arlington. Certainly beats lying around like a lump. (And watch our section this Sunday for a new product that helps you do yoga wherever you want.)

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Washington: Please help me! I want to head to Amsterdam in late May, June, July or August. So far the flights I have seen are outrageous, the cheapest being around $800. How can I find a cheaper fare? What times would be best to go?

Carol Sottili: It's usually a lot more expensive to fly in July than May. A quick search at www.kayak.com came up with a $710 round-trip flight in May (US Airways) and nothing under $1,000 in July. $800 round-trip fares to Amsterdam in spring are not outrageous - they're fairly routine at this point. Since you're so flexible, sign up for sale notifications at the various airline sites. Also, sign up at Orbitz.com for deal detector, and Kayak.com for Kayak Buzz. Keep checking sites such as www.independenttraveler.com and www.travelzoo.com for sales. And when you find something cheaper, act quickly. You could also try pricing flights into London and then take a discount airliner from there to Amsterdam. I'm not convinced that will save you big bucks, especially when you factor in cost of getting from Heathrow to Gatwick or Stansted, where most discount airlines fly from.

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Flying Screenwriter: This shouldn't win anything, but I take a notebook and I write during long flights. I once wrote an entire first draft of a screenplay during a flight.

John Deiner: Get out! And how did that work out? Did it win anything last night?

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Washington: I am about to travel internationally with my kids aged 3 and 1. It's been a while since we've flown, and with the new rules on carry-on items in place, I'm confused as to what I can bring. Specifically, my youngest child still is eating baby food (not exclusively, but primarily). Because we will be traveling for more than 24 hours until we reach our final destination, I would need to bring a fair amount of baby food. Can I?

Andrea Sachs: According to the Transportation Security Administration:
"Baby formula and food, breast milk and other baby items - These are allowed in your carry-on baggage or personal items. You can take these through the security checkpoints and aboard your plane. However, you must be traveling with a baby or toddler. All items including formula or breast milk will be inspected."
Back to me: When packing, place the baby food in clear Ziploc bags and take them out of your carry-on when going through security.

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Passing the time on Plane from WDC: It's all about the iPod and the Sonata. If that doesn't work, I mix it up with a strong Bloody Mary. God love the iPod.

John Deiner: I'm with you on that one. (The iPod, that is . . . not so much a fan o' the Bloody Marys. But on a really really long flight, don't the batteries start to fade?)

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Arlington, Va.: Having spent time in Toronto's PATH system I agree it can be very confusing and it is easy to get lost. I was really wishing I had a compass with me to figure out which direction I was heading. The little color-coded signs aren't always helpful. They could use more maps or directories with the street map from above superimposed on it so you could figure out where you are. There also are a number of level changes where you have to take an escalator up or down and then you end up in the lobby of some office building with no clear indication of where to go to pick the PATH back up. But I suppose if you have a lot of time to kill it can be an interesting place to wander around.

Andrea Sachs: Glad I was not the only direction-less one down there. Agree, it is confusing, but it is also mighty warm.

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Thailand honeymoon: Hi Flight Crew! We're looking to plan a two-week honeymoon to Thailand in September. Planning on Bangkok and Ko Samui, with a side trip to Angkor Wat in Cambodia. Any suggestions on activities/places not to miss while there? We are just starting to plan and know very little so far. Thanks!

KC Summers: Hi TH. You'll love Ko Samui. You might want to add Chiang Mai in the north, for trekking, temples, crafts and history. Great cooking schools there too, if you're into that. Another place I really liked was a tiny little island to the north of Bangkok called Ko Kret, with no cars, great street food and wonderful old monasteries. Also loved communing with the elephants at a camp in Lampang, also up in the north.
Anyone else have Thailand tips to share?

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Confused Passenger: I have a question. I arrived two hours ahead of my flight, and was rewarded with a seat on a delayed flight with mechanical problems. Yet, as it appeared that the mechanical problems seemed to be serious, it was delayed beyond the takeoff of my original flight. When I inquired about getting my original seat, I was told the flight had been sold and that my seat no longer existed. I was put on standby. Now, maybe this is just the way things are, but it is disheartening to watch as people arrive just as the gates are closing get onto a plane you had booked weeks earlier and arrived at the airport two hours ahead of time, and you can't board your planned plane. I don't know what one can do in such a case except complain to you.

(Incidentally -- and here is the bizarre part -- that plane that I missed got caught behind another plane that ran off the runway. It turned out that my plane actually took off before it. So, in some weird sense, I actually lucked out. But still, in general, shouldn't there be some greater consideration for people who follow the rules, arrive at an airport in plenty of time, that they not be penalized?)

Steve Hendrix: I don't see that you have a complaint here, except with the capricious gods of travel (and good luck with them). At first, you lucked out by getting onto an earlier flight. I would have done the same thing, but with that choice you did surrender your original seat; you can't lay claim to two at once.
It's too bad that your luck turned and your new flight got delayed, but I think the airline has every right to sell the seat you turned loose.

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Washington: Hi Flight Crew. Here is how I (tried) to keep myself occupied on a recent trip. I had been trudging through Anna Karenina for weeks when my three-week trip to South Africa and Lesotho popped up. I figured that with the long flying hours, long layovers, and some down time that I would be able to finish up the book. Well, it never happened. As can be expected, something better than Anna Karenina always popped up (for instance, staring into space for 18-plus hours while flying over the Atlantic) and I ended up carrying what is probably the world's heaviest book around Africa! I should have known better...

John Deiner: Great story, DC! Doesn't that always happen though? Just about trip I carry far more reading material than I need. Loved that you stared into space for 18 hours. That always makes time fly, doesn't it?

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Bowie, Md.: For any kind of long trip, I like to read the Bible. People leave you alone.

John Deiner: Bowie, great stuff, and a very good tip!

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Arlington, Va.: Thinking about heading up to Maine this spring for a vacation. Maybe 5-9 days. What are can't-miss sights if I've never been before? I like nature, hiking, shopping. Also, will it be warm in May or should I wait until July or August?

Cindy Loose: May could be rather chilly: average temps range from 43-65. The weather in July and August is similar to each other, with nights dipping into the high 50s/low 60s on average and daytime in the high 70s, maybe low 80s. Maine swimmers are a tough breed.
You'll find nature and hiking many places in Maine; for the best shopping and dining head to Portland. Portland is a fn little city with some interesting shops, and about a half mile up the road is a giant outlet shopping area. I'd suggest you divide your time and spend a couple days in or near Portland, then head out to somewhat wilder areas for your nature and hiking. If you want to spend you're entire time in one place, consider staying on an island an hour or so outside Portland and commute in on the days you want to shop.

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Laurel, Md.: "(And are you all well rested after the Oscars? Scorsese wins Best Director? Wow. What saw THAT coming?)" Yeah, when he didn't win four years ago for Gangs of New York, his next out was a gimme.

John Deiner: Oh, he should have won for "GoodFellas"! Or Raging Bull! It was about time.

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Layovers: I like the yoga idea, but don't leave your bag unattended while doing yoga. I walk the airport and try and think of it as exercise. And read trashy novels since they take no concentration and leave me in a good mood.

John Deiner: And you can throw them away at the end of the trip. But walking the airport is a good idea, though if you're stuck on a plane, that gets old in about 3 minutes.

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Washington: Hi Flight Crew -- thank you for your time. My boyfriend and I are planning a trip to Italy at the end of April for a week. The cheapest tix we can find online are around $700. Is this a good deal? Also, we would like to see Rome, Florence and Venice all in about seven days. Is this too ambitious? Would you suggest that we book our hotels in advance or play it by ear when we get there?

Carol Sottili: I'd say doing all three cities in seven days is a bit over the top, especially if you've never been to any of them. Venice is about a 3.5 hour drive from Florence, and Rome is about 2.5 hours from Florence; Florence is the most centrally located, but it's more expensive to fly into. Each city has so much to offer, but perhaps if you see it as a once-in-a-lifetime trip, you may want to go to all three. $700 fares to Rome are about right for April. As for hotels, no right or wrong answer here - depends on how flexible/fussy you are, and how you like to travel. I like to know where I'm staying, especially in a country where I don't speak the language, but many travelers feel quite comfortable winging it. Hotels in Italy, especially in Rome, are not cheap: take a look at www.enjoyrome.com for less expensive options.

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The beauty of the iPod: I haven't had a hardcore test, because I put it on sleep mode so that if I fall asleep it turns off. But on my 80 gig model I go weeks without charging my batteries and I use it every day. Genius engineering.

John Deiner: Yeah, I have a vintage Nano, and it starts to fade after four or five hours. That gets me to Vegas, but no farther.

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Washington: How to pass the time on a long or delayed flight? I always take a lengthy book that I've been meaning to read but never got around to ... the pages fly by when on the airplane or even on the ground, and one does not notice the passage of time. "Moby Dick" and "Fatal Shores" got me through a trip to Australia and back; "War and Peace" was great for another long-haul flight. My motto -- a wide-body book for a wide-body plane!

John Deiner: Good motto, DC, and enriching as well.

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Alexandria, Va.: Hi Flight Crew. My husband and I have just booked a much-needed spring getaway to Quebec City (we were looking for a closer, cheaper Europe). When requesting the time off I realized that the dates we booked are during Easter weekend. I've noticed that the major museums are open Easter Sunday, but am a tad bit worried about restaurants and shops. Are things likely to close down? Any can't-miss sights or tastes of Quebec? Thanks!

Anne McDonough: Coming up should be a link to a piece by Cindy on what to do in, and outside, Quebec City. As for Easter weekend...
you'll be there for the annual winter market in the Old Port (it's on April 5-8), and I called a random few restaurants and all without exception will be open on Easter. Now, that's not to say that everything you want to do will be open, but I think you'll be a-okay. Also, check the city's tourism site for up-to-date info as your trip approaches.

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washingtonpost.com: Quebec City, Inside and Out (Post, July 23, 2006)

Anne McDonough: For the Canada-bound. Thanks, Chris!

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Alexandria, Va.: Short business trip coming up -- need to fly out of BWI at crack o' dawn on Monday morning. Thinking about driving over the night before. Do any airport hotels allow 3-4 day parking with a one-night stay?

Andrea Sachs: A number of BWI-area hotels have sleep-park-and-fly deals. Each hotel has different rules, so call ahead for rates and maximum parking time. Among the hotels: Wingate Inn, Hampton Inn (a few locations), Microtel Inn and Suites, Ramada Inn BWI Airport and Best Western BWI.

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Clinton, Md.: I was wondering if any of you all had taken the easyCruise? What's the cheapest way to fly down and catch it? Do you eat all your meals off the ship? Any rants or raves? I've never cruised before but it seems so cheap, I'm really considering it. Thanks for your help! Love the chats!

John Deiner: Hey, Clinton. We're going to post a story we did on it last year, and all the info is still pertinent. Because you can stay on as little as you want, the tricky thing is finding good airfares if you don't want to stay onboard for the week. (That is, flying into one airport and out of another).
But it definitely sounds like a fun time, if you fit the young demographic that floods the ship.

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washingtonpost.com: With Its Budget Cabins, EasyCruise Puts the Next Generation of Cruisers at Sea (Post, Feb. 5, 2006)

John Deiner: And here ya go.

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Alexandria, Va.: My wife and I are looking for a warm-weather getaway in late March. We had been looking into the Playa del Carmen area of Mexico and have found some reasonable package deals. We're looking for all-inclusive (not generally our style, but we'd rather spend our weekend enjoying the beach) around $2,000. Any other suggestions? Thanks!

Cindy Loose: You don't say how long you're planning to be wined dined and housed on this $2,000 package, but you do mention "weekend." For $1,000 each for a three-day package you should have a lot of options, so I wouldn't grab the first one I saw.
If you're really talking a weekend, or say a long weekend even, then I'd think first about warm destinations that have direct flights. Give me more detail about how much time you have, whether the package you're looking at flies direct--and to where, Cancun?--and what you want to do. If you just want to sit by the beach you could also check out all-inclusives in the Dominican Republic and Jamaica and maybe Puerto Rico if in fact you're only spending three days.

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Fredericksburg, Va.: I am planning a trip to Ireland with my mom around Memorial Day. We want to go to the usual places like Dublin, but also want to visit the area where our clan is from, near Enniskillen. I would prefer to join an escorted tour, but none go to that area and I really do not want to drive. If we took a tour then took a bus up to Enniskillen, would we be able to get around okay?

KC Summers: Hi Fred, I see Enniskillen is in Northern Ireland. It's very easy to get around by bus or train in Ireland -- it's a small country so nothing's very far away -- although let me also make a pitch for renting a car and driving. In my experience, it's pretty easy to get used to driving on the left, and it really isn't that intimidating as long as you take it easy on the winding, narrow roads -- and there's no better way to see the beautiful countryside. But if you want to bus or train it, that's certainly doable.

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St. Paul, Minn.: On a long flight to Paris a few years ago I got the idea to write haiku about the annoying passengers around me (pulling on the backs of seats, playing CDs so loudly that you could hear them through the earphones, etc). They turned out pretty funny, so I have done that ever since...

John Deiner: What a hoot, St. Paul. And there's never a shortage of annoying passengers. You have a subcategory for shrieking kids?

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Alexandria, Va.: Travel Gurus -- welcome back! I'm meeting up with my father in London next month and we are taking a daytrip by train to Cardiff. As all I know about the city is that "Doctor Who" is filmed there, what are some of the attractions not to be missed?

Andrea Sachs: If you don't mind, Alexandria, I am going to crib from my own TQA column, which answered a similar question. Hope this helps:
Cardiff is less than two hours by rail, and trains leave frequently from London's Paddington station. For schedules and other details: National Rail. Once in Cardiff, you can opt for a tour (check with Visit Wales for a list of operators) or explore the city independently.
For solo tours, the Wales Tourist Board publishes a guide that highlights the top attractions, including the Millennium Stadium and its cutting-edge architecture; the Wales Millennium Centre, an arts complex featuring opera, theater and other performances; the waterfront area, which buzzes with cafes and boutiques; and the National Museum Cardiff, which has the second-largest collection of impressionist paintings after Paris.
For a more in-depth or specialized experience, Hegedus recommends going with a tour group such as Blue Badge Tourist Guides ( http://www.blue-badge-guides.com/ ), whose guides are certified by the British tourist board. For a more unusual ride, Dragonride Trike Tours ( http://www.dragonride.org.uk/ ) shows visitors the city sights, castles and Welsh countryside from the seat of a two-passenger Rewaco HS5 family trike (like a domesticated Harley). And if you decide to extend your trip in Wales, Hegedus says Cardiff is "a nice base for a trip to other parts of Wales," but warns that "it is not a destination for the week, like London or Manchester."

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Bethesda, Md.: Can we bring home wine from abroad anymore? Traveling to France and Spain ... how can I find out what their security requirements are -- do they abide by the Ziploc bag rule? Even TSA says that X-rays used on checked luggage is dangerous to food, so I would think packing wine is not a good bet. Advice?

Gary Lee: At last check, the rules against bringing liquids aboard flights that originate in Europe were as strict as they are in the states. So, if you brought wine you'd be best off shipping it or packing it (carefully) in your checked luggage. In my experience -- I have brought wine on occasion from both Spain and France -- wine in checked luggage has not be spoiled by the x-raying or the temperatures.
Does anyone else have experience with this?

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Last-Minute Travel: My husband and I are traveling from Washington to Germany (either Frankfort or Munich) in the middle of April and hope to take a military "hop" (a great perk for retirees). But we won't know until fairly last minute if one is actually available (24-48 hours before we want to leave). We have to get to Germany by a specific day, so if we can't take a hop, we will have to fly commercial. So here's the question: Is there any chance of getting a good deal (or even just a reasonable price) purchasing tickets at the last minute? Or are we destined to pay through the nose? Are there any tricks (or just some savvy advice) we should know before searching for tickets?

Carol Sottili: Sorry, but last-minute cheap airfares, especially to Europe, are few and far between. Airlines make money by charging business travelers (i.e. last-minute travelers) through the nose. You may have luck looking at the weekly Internet deals that some airlines, such as Iceland Air, post, but the chances that their offered dates will sync with yours aren't all that good. Start checking the Web sites that serve Frankfurt/Munich (Lufthansa, United, Air Canada are top carriers) for deals. Compare the price of last-minute fares to advance purchase: most airlines charge a steep change fee if you buy tickets and then change them, but it may be worth it if you can use the flights some other time in the next year.

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Passing time: Call me old-fashioned, but one of the paperback collections of NYT Sunday Crosswords keeps me occupied for hours.

John Deiner: You're old-fashioned.
No, that's a perfectly reasonable way to kill hours and hours.

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Decent hotels in London: This is in response to the person who was trying to find accommodations in London. The stretch from Queensway up to Paddington Station is very accommodating to tourists of many price ranges. Granted, Queensway has a tourist/theme park feel to it, but the purpose of the Tube is to get you out of there. (Not all the time, though. Hunting for Peter Pan in Kensington Gardens can be fun.)

Gary Lee: Thanks for the very helpful tips.

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Drop Off The Trash, Pick Up The Trash: "And read trashy novels since they take no concentration and leave me in a good mood." American Airlines' Admirals Clubs have started setting up leave-a-book, take-a-book counters for club members to trade their trashy airplane reads.

John Deiner: What a great idea. And it came from an airline? Now all we have to do is sneak into the Admirals Club to get one. Still, that be terrific if other airlines picked up on the thought, wouldn't it?

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Anniversary Trip:: My family is renting a beach house in Savannah for the first week of August. This is also one week after my first wedding anniversary. My husband and I would like to take the full week off, but do an anniversary trip (maybe to a Caribbean island?) for the first 3-4 days and then spend the rest of the time in Savannah. Any suggestions for easy-to-get-to Caribbean islands? Or should we try one of the vacation spots (Hilton Head, Sea Island, Amelia Island etc) closer to Savannah? We're in our late 20s and have about $2,000 for the anniversary portion of the trip. And which makes more sense: three way flight -- Washington to Island to Savannah to Washington? Or fly in and out of Savannah and >then coordinate a second flight from Savannah to the island? Thanks!

Steve Hendrix: Have a great time on Tybee, one of my favorite beaches. Any nearby island you chose is going to be very different from Tybee (where gothic tackiness is much of the charm). Hilton or Amelia are much fixier, if you know what I mean, big golf scenes, more resorty, both very lovely. If you want that same barrier island beauty with LESS development, have a look at Little Saint Simmons Island, one of the truly great small hotels on the East Coast (your budget will just allow the $650 or so per night rate for an island experience you'll never forget. That's per couple, all meals, cocktail hours, horseback riding, a little boat to putter around in).
If you want to go offshore, you'll probably get the most choices through Atlanta (Hartsfield is about four hours from Savannah). AirTran flies to Grand Bahama as well as Savannah; I could see pieces together a workable DC-SAV plan with a ATL-Bahama-Atl junket thrown in there.
Warning: It's hot as a firecracker on Coastal Georgia in August.

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College Park, Md.: I am interested in seeing Beijing (and getting there cheaply non-stop). However, I have very little vacation. What is the shortest feasible trip if I only see Beijing? Three nights there? Four? Five? This would be my first trip to Asia and my furthest trip to date (after Czech Republic). Thoughts?

Anne McDonough: Now, I am all for getting to China whichever way you can. But one thing to keep in mind is that the flight is looongg. With the United flight from Dulles we're in much better shape, not having to transfer in New York, or Detroit or LA or wherever, but no matter how you shake it, it's a long haul (about 14 hours on the direct flight, I believe). So if you're there for three nights, you're going to need at least five days away from College Park to factor in travel time and you'll have some interesting jet lag mixed in there (as I type it's 2:29 p.m. Monday here in DC, and it's 3:29 a.m. Tuesday in Beijing). If you're still up for that and all you want on this trip is Beijing, I'd say four nights would be, for me, the absolute minimum that would make it worth it and that's still stretching it. You can get a taste of Beijing in fewer days, absolutely, but I'd only suggest that when it's part of a more extensive trip and you have other destinations to round out the experience.

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Alexandria, Va. -- runway time: One trick I've learned is to use my cell phone to call a friend or colleague with Internet access, have them access to look up the FAA's flight delay information map and my current parked-on-the-plane airport, and my destination. I've often learned delay estimates way before the flight crews tells the passengers anything -- doesn't get me to my destination any faster, but at least I know something. Otherwise? Good book and chocolate!

John Deiner: Clever ploy, Al, and you get to show off to your fellow passengers.

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Charleston, S.C.: Hi. I'm heading to Banff on Saturday for spring break ... does anyone have any ideas for interesting things to do (apart from skiing)? Thanks.

Cindy Loose: Banff is pretty ski intensive during the period you're discussing. The town is very pretty and has some shopping and some bar hopping and such, but it's a small town. Outside of town you could take a guided tour on a glacier---special buses go up the glacier but there's not much too that so maybe you'd enjoy getting a guide to walk up the glacier. Other winter sports, like snowmobiling, would be a good option.
If you're headed to Banff and aren't going to do any winter sports, then you might consider spending a day or two in Calgary, assuming that's where you're flying into.
Lake Louise is a very pretty place to walk around, and the hotel on the lake is beautiful--a good place to have a beer or overpriced lunch.
Anyone else have ideas?

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Deep Valley, U.S.: I bring books and write a poem. I write at least one poem on every flight or train trip. Books don't always cut it, so I also make up stories about the people I can see or hear around me. Some of my best are about the people in the row in back of me. I try not to turn around and see what they look like before making up something based on what they're saying.

John Deiner: Love it...how much fun is that?
This stuff is great, guys. Keep it coming.

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Arlington, Va.: Re: reasonably-priced London hotels. Having lived in South Kensington, I'd choose Gloucester Road over Earl's Court. There's really not a lot going on at Earl's Court at night and it feels a little "seedy" for my taste, and I'm a 30-something male. The Gloucester Road area, on the other hand, feels very safe no matter what time of day or night.

Gary Lee: Thanks. I stayed in a place called base2stay, which is around half way between Gloucester Road and Earl's Court. I thought that between the two neighborhoods, there was a good sampling of moderately priced restaurants and cafes.

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Arlington, Va.: When I know I'll be flying, I start saving up magazines a month or so ahead of time. (I also save the Washington Post Sunday crosswords.) When I finish a magazine on the flight, I just stick it in the seat-back pocket so that the next person will have something to read. That way I don't have to carry it around, and someone else gets to enjoy it, too.

John Deiner: Okay, I love the idea, but let's see if anyone objects to finding someone else's magazine in THEIR seat pocket when they show up. I find dirty tissues and candy wrappers too frequently, but never a magazine (other than the airline's, that is).

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A tip for packing wine: We are loyal to those Ziploc space bags. Besides all the typical benefits, we use them to pack wine in our checked luggage -- wrap the bottle in your laundry and seal the bag. If something were to happen and the bottle breaks the Ziploc would retain the mess and you'd only spoil a few clothes. Never had an issue doing this, knock on wood...

Gary Lee: Cool. Thanks for the tip.

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Harrisburg, Pa.: I am the person who wrote last time wondering why it was so difficult to book an earlier flight to avoid an expected travel advisory in order to be one less trouble once the storm hit. I should think airlines would be willing to be more cooperative, yet the airlines will not do anything until the travel advisory is official posted. I personally would have been willing to pay about $100 in order to move my ticket up a few days. Yet when they expected me to pay the difference in the fares, which was $700 to $1,000 depending on whether I would fly one or two days ahead of the storm, I took my chances. As bizarre fortune worked out, I gambled and won. My flight turned out to be one of the ones that took off and I was not stranded as were many others during the storm. Yet would I want to risk this again after seeing people who were being told it may be two days before they could get flights?

Still, and maybe this is more of a plea to airlines: When a storm is imminent and likely, and there are seats on outgoing planes before the storm, wouldn't it make sense to allow those of us willing to fly earlier to fly out without charging us so much? One would think that would even reduce their subsequent difficulties with fewer people being trapped in airports.

Cindy Loose: I can certainly see how your argument makes sense. Airlines are probably worried that they'd set some kind of precedent and then people would ask all the time to move up their trip by a day or two and then they wouldn't be able to sell high, last minute fares. But that slippery slope logic doesn't always work.
If any airline execs are listening: Why not be flexible before a storm and get those willing to leave early out of your hair?

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Alexandria, Va.: In response to the London bound bed-and-breakfast question -- my family had a very enjoyable stay at the James and Cartref houses in Belgravia. It was an easy 2-3 block walk to Victoria Station for tube, train, also coach bus stations, and also where there is an official London information center, or a three-block walk to Sloane Square tube station. The rooms were small but clean and "en suite" with tiny bathroom included. A full English breakfast provided. We stayed during Christmas week and were close enough to walk back to the bed and breakfast after watching fireworks at Big Ben on New Year's Eve. The place also is reviewed by Rick Steves and another guide. Also -- we owe a big thanks to the Travel section for pointing out that British Air had lowered the fares on Christmas Day flights to London. Our college-age sons enjoyed the trip very much.

Gary Lee: Hey, glad to have been of assistance. And ta for the lodging tip.

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New York: Re: Long flights (and nonflights) -- first, grab any celeb gossip/tabloid mag. Read it line by line for 5 minutes until you're thoroughly disgusted with yourself. Then, plunge into a hardcover tome on the I've-been-meaning-to-read-the-classics-but-never-got-around-to-it list. After an hour of hard work, fall nicely asleep. Seriously though -- bring entertainment of different media and genres. Start with a magazine, because the fast-flipping keeps your mind off the take-off jitters. Go to music then fiction book then movie/TV then non-fiction audiobook. Switching up the medium/delivery and content keeps you from adding to flying fatigue. And invest in comfy headphones/earbuds and light-blocking eye shades.

John Deiner: New York, you've been through this before, haven't you? I start with a couple of newspapers myself, then switch to old Entertainment Weekly magazines. If those don't put me to sleep, I'm in for a realllly long flight.

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Long flights: I use long flights to catch up on The New Yorker, which always comes faster than I can read it. I take several issues and end up reading them cover to cover. The best part is I can leave them behind, unlike a heavy, long book.

John Deiner: The New Yorker has to be the ultimate airplane magazine: It can days to read one of those. Thanks for chiming in.

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Passing the time: I survey my fellow passengers and invent dramatic backstories for them (sort of a la "Harriet the Spy"). For example, the guy with the baseball cap sitting two rows ahead of you is on his way to a Viking battle reenactment, where he will propose to his longtime girlfriend. He will grow out his beard for the wedding, and she will wear a helmet with horns.

John Deiner: Hey, that's TWO people who make up stories about the people around them. A trend?

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Arlington, Va.: What destination(s) would fit these criteria: Golf, warm in winter, non-stop flight from DC (any airport), good food, non-golf activities for wife (beach, etc.), close enough for a reasonable 4-5 day trip, not too expensive?

Cindy Loose: Hmmm, wish you'd been more specific about not too expensive, but the first three places I'd look would be Florida, San Diego or a package deal to the Dominican Republic, which has the best golf in the Caribbean and some relatively inexpensive package deals.
Anyone else have ideas?

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Arlington, Va.: Flight crew, thank you for your fabulous chats. Do any of you have experience with a Visit Argentina Air Pass? We're traveling there in the fall (flying United to and from B.A.) and plan on flying within the country three times, so we'd like to use the pass to get a discount on domestic airfare, but our itinerary is a little complicated and I'm worried about something getting messed up -- should we consult a travel agent about this or try to do it ourselves through Aerolineas Argentinas? Thanks!

Carol Sottili: No one on the travel staff has used this particular air pass. Any chatters out there? As for whether to work with airline or agent, I'd try working with an airline agent first, and if I felt uncomfortable with responses, I'd try a travel agent. But travel agents don't get paid commissions for booking airline tickets alone, so you'd probably have to pay a small fee.

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Alexandria, Va.: Hi Flight Crew. My wife and I are planning on a trip to Prague in April, to also include cycling around Bohemia. I was hoping to find a travel-oriented book store in such an international city as Washington, but to no avail. How are the embassies for providing travel info? We're particularly interested in cycling trails.

Andrea Sachs: I've found that the embassies are helpful with visa, passport and other consular queries, but not necessarily travel planning. For that, consult the tourism offices -- for Prague or for South Bohemia. The offices are based abroad, but you can e-mail them questions. For candid advice, tap into the online travel communities, such as Lonely Planet's Thorn Tree, and ask other travelers for their opinions and suggestions. You can also get some ideas by looking at the itineraries of organized biking tours, such as Ave Bicycle Tours (www.bicycle-tours.cz).

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Alexandria, Va.: Hi Flight Crew. I am planning a trip to Guatemala (Antigua, Lake Atitlan, Tikal) in late May/early June but nothing is purchased yet. Should I be concerned about safety at all in these places? Would you recommend this trip? Thanks!

Steve Hendrix: I go to those places all the time with my kids (my family shares a house on Lake Atitlan) and have never had a problem. (and it's been a few years since I was up at Tikal, so I can't claim any recent first-hand knowledge.) Still, people do get robbed in all those places. My sense is that security in Guatemala is improving, but there are no guarantees. The real serious problems with crime there now don't have to with tourists.
Overall, I follow the same precautions there I follow at home (avoid dark alleys, etc) and never feel unsafe.

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London: For Annandale: King's Cross should be fine, although I can't say I've ever had reason to stay in lodging in the city. The main thing of course is to be sensible as you go out and about. What sort of activities/places are you considering? Do you hope to get outside of London for a day or half-day? Are you planning to spend all your time in the city? Do you want to be able to go between your lodging and activities in the city during the day, or are you happy with leaving in the morning and not returning until late? Truthfully, the public transport system is quite convenient to use (most of the time...) and trains here run much more often than they do in Washington (where I lived for a number of years). Their frequency during rush hour is quite often one minute apart, and generally no longer than 15 minutes at the least popular times (6 a.m. to 7 a.m. on Sunday mornings, etc). What do you mean when you say modest accommodation, and how many people will need it?

Gary Lee: These are good questions to consider. I would add this tip: if you're pretty resourceful, you can often find good deals on rental apartments. (Check out vrbo.com for starters. An apartment can also help you save on the cost of meals, which can be unnecessarily pricey in London.

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Re: Wine in luggage: It's not a question of spoil, as in taste, but rather the radiation (as in irradiated food), which can create toxins and decrease enzyme activity (a factor for wine) and vitamins.

Gary Lee: I understand. Anyone have thoughts on this?

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Bowie, Md.: Hey crew ... hope I'm not too late to contribute to today's "challenge" ... one thing we do when we're sitting and waiting and waiting is pull out all the tourist info for the location where we're going (eventually...) read, sit and talk with the missus about what we each might like to do. Sometimes with our hectic schedules we just don't get the chance to have in-depth discussions before we leave ... just general things. That way we can try to solidify our wants and avoid the early morning, while on vacation question of "so what do you want to do today?" Once we're finally airborne we watch our portable DVD player and relax.

John Deiner: Thanks, Bowie. It probably gets you more psyched for where you're heading as well.

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Vienna, Va.: I go to Aruba twice a year with my parents. They never have had passports before and it always takes a while compared to passport holders. Have the new rules requiring passports sped up the normal airport routine?

Cindy Loose: I haven't heard directly, but I would think it would help make things go faster for two reasons: A passport makes it quicker for an official to determine citizenship, as you mentioned based on previous experience, and initially at least, the need for a passport is reducing American tourism to the islands where passports are now necessary. (I.e. all of the Carib for people flying in except in the case of Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgins.

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Arlington, Va.: Any advice for traveling to Santa Fe? What's the best time(s) of year? We like arts/museums/music as well as day hikes/drives to places with scenery. What activities are nearby?

KC Summers: There's no real bad time to go to Santa Fe -- I like the summer, myself, because I love the hot days/cool nights combination, but even in winter the days don't get much below the high 40s (though nights are cold). Spring and fall are ideal. Art galleries are everywhere (especially on Canyon Road) and there are some wonderful museums -- I especially liked the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum. For a fabulous side trip, don't miss Abiquiu, O'Keeffe's home outside of town. It's a bit restrictive to get into (reserve well in advance, no note-taking allowed) but well worth it to see where she worked and some of the places she painted. For hikes, Tent Rocks and Bandelier National Monument are nearby. Here's a guide to some nearby hikes.

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San Diego: I enjoy passing my travel time by counting the times the woman in 16F can turn around and glare at me. Ma'am, my son is 4. If you lean your seat back and he nudges it every 30 minutes or so, I'm sorry. You'd probably be more comfortable if your knickers weren't so tightly wadded. (Yes, my wife and I just returned from a trip with our two children. I was proud of them as little travelers. Most of our fellow travelers would have agreed.)

John Deiner: You go, San Diego. That woman in 16F is always a problem, isn't she? I do the same thing when people lean their seats back in my lap.

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re: Little Saint Simmons Island: Never heard of this place ... would it be good for a June honeymoon?

Steve Hendrix: Little St. Simons Island (did I misspell that before?) would be perfect for some, not so much others. It's a very comfortable, even luxurious, small hotel in a wild setting. Like many barrier islands on that coast, the whole island used to be owned by wealthy northern industrialist. Now, his descendents run the place as an excellent eco-lodge. If you like that coastal setting (wild boar, magnificent moss-draped live oaks, chiggers and skeeters, marsh fug and hermit crabs), then you'll adore puttering around this place and coming back to high-count linen sheets and world class cuisine.
If you're looking for kick-back beaches and umbrella drinks..not so much. Here's the Web site.

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Arlington, Va.: KC -- if renting a car in Ireland, are there cars with automatic transmissions, or do you need to know how to drive a manual?

KC Summers: They do have cars with automatic transmissions but you really have to pay through the nose, since standard transmissions are the norm in Europe. So: It's doable, but it may be worth learning to drive a stick before you go!

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Chantilly, Va. -- iPod plus Movies: On my 80 gigabyte iPod I have about 30 movies or so that I have ripped from my home DVDs and transferred. I will also use my Netflix subscription to rip a few newer movies before my trips so I can catch up on old TV shows or movies that I missed the first time around. Apple sells an extended battery for the video iPod on their Web site and I've gone 8 hours or so without a charge while watching movies.

John Deiner: Good stuff, Chantilly.

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Munich airport?: In keeping with your question about passing the time ... I have a seven-hour layover in Munich in May. I've never been there. Is there any sightseeing near enough to the airport? Can I get into the city? Do I want to?

Anne McDonough: I think hiking out to the airport's viewing hill sounds like fun; it's always accessible and could be neat to watch flights take off. But maybe that's just me.
The airport's Web site has some ideas for layovers ranging from 1 hour (I'd hit the onsite Airbrau, open 10 a.m. -1 a.m., for some good old German beer) to more than 5 (which of course fits your criteria); the city is about 40 minutes from the airport but if money's no object to me their other main idea, the thermal spa in Erding, sounds like the PERFECT way to soak up some Germany time. The site has a printable 6-page PDF layover guide that I'd print out before heading over, and includes a space where you can have someone at the airport write down the suggested time for you to be back in the airport, bus/train departure times from the airport and bus/train times to return to the airport, very handy stuff to have written down.

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Spring Break lodging - Charleston S.C.?: Can college age kids (20 years old) armed with only a debit card book rooms at economy motels? My son wants to visit Charleston and see the historical sights with a friend. The hostel has a very bad reputation. Any other ideas?

Carol Sottili: I gave my college-age son our credit card in his name for emergencies. But I believe most hotels will accept debit cards. He should figure out which hotel he wants to stay in and call ahead. And kudos to your son for seeing historic sites on spring break.

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Killing Time: The fastest flight I've ever had was from Paris to NYC with a friend. We started a marathon Yahtzee game at Charles de Gaulle airport and continued playing nonstop -- fueled by lots of free red wine -- all the way across the Atlantic. The miles just flew by ...(you should pardon the expression).

John Deiner: We'll pardon it, KT. But that Yahtzee's pretty addictive, isn't it?

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Washington: On any flight longer than four hours I definitely get stir crazy, so I absolutely have to have several options to choose from. Music, of course. A heavy book. A lighter book. A couple magazines. And something else to write on. That way I can switch from one to another as the mood suits. Some days you're in the mood for "Cryptonomicon," some days you're not. And if at all possible, I get on an airline that has the TVs at every seat, like JetBlue. Changing channels really does help pass the time.

Anne McDonough: I like having a choice between fun and serious reads, too. On long trips I always bring along books that I've MEANT to read, wish I had and never do pick up at home. That's how I finally read Anna Karenina. One day I'll do War and Peace. Maybe.

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Washington: re: Banff ... you can go dogsledding! It's a blast!

washingtonpost.com: Minnesota, not Banff, but still -- Every Dog Has His Sleigh (Post Magazine, Feb. 25)

Steve Hendrix:
I did a trip like that just south of Banff a few years ago (for another publication). It was an overnight trip deep into the woods where the company had set up a tee pee for our accommodations. I loved driving the team, and it eliminated any reservations I had about the propriety of using dogs as transport. Those critters LOVED their work.
Did you know sled dogs can poop as they run? Dangedest thing you ever saw.

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Arlington, Va.: For the Thailand (and Cambodia) honeymooners, I think a lot depends on what interests you. For sure don't miss the Grand Palace in Bangkok, and because Wat Po is right next door it is also worth seeing the giant reclining Buddha. There is basically a Buddhist temple every 5 feet and while they are beautiful, after a while they tend to blend together and all look alike. The Jim Thompson House museum also is interesting if you like silk and stories about mysterious Westerners who disappeared one day 40 years ago. The giant shopping malls are a welcome respite from the heat, but the prices and stores are pretty much what you see anywhere. Siam Paragon has an aquarium in the basement level and a ton of very-high-end merchants that can be fun to browse around.

I would definitely recommend hiring a guide -- I arranged my trip last year with a company called Purple Dragon tours. They primarily cater to the gay market, but their packages are fairly general. I currently am planning this year's trip with them to return to Thailand and also to see Cambodia. It is not cheap, but they use nice hotels, arrange all the transfers and you have the services of your own private English-speaking guide who will show you the sights. They also are good about tailoring things to your interests. I can't recommend them highly enough.

KC Summers: Thanks for the recommendation. Not sure if our honeymooners wanted a guide but it's not a bad idea if you're overwhelmed with temples and such. Glad you mentioned the Jim Thompson House, I loved that place-- not so much for all the silk, but because I "collect" house museums and this one is particularly gorgeous, not to mention imbued with mystery (the guy disappeared at the height of his fame and was never heard from again).

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Ex Fed: I always used the time on the plane/at the airport to write the reports and expense accounts necessary for the trip. More time? Letters to folk I don't get time to write to otherwise.

Anne McDonough: An organized traveler after my own heart. Your admin folks must love you. The only problem with letters is that if you stamp them there you have to make sure you actually finish and mail them, otherwise you're stuck doubling on postage once home. Too many times I've stamped postcards and letters while abroad only to forget to mail them when I get to the airport. But I bet you're more organized than that, Ex Fed.

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Dreamland: A very broad question to all you well traveled ... travelers. Where would you live if you liked the ocean, were not to keen on cold cold winters, wanted some culture, and didn't like it too crowded or two uninhabited? So the best of all worlds -- a little citified, but no huge crowds, and room to breathe.

Steve Hendrix: Hmmmm. Baja Mexico? Much of Chile? Mira Flores neighborhood of Lima? Rattan, Honduras?

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Kyoto, or Tokyo?: Hi Flight Crew. We're in the very early stages of planning a trip to Japan. Very broad question -- we have five days to spend in country, so would you all spend that time in Kyoto, or Tokyo? Any good general Web sites to help plan? Thank you!

Cindy Loose: That is SUCH A HARD CHOICE. Is there no way you can get even two more days so you can do both? The high speed train between Tokyo and Kyoto is just over two hours, but to do each city justice, especially given the jet lag you'll be suffering, you're right to assume you should do just one or the other with five days in my opinion. But with just two more days you could squeeze in both.
Okay, so there is no way possible to get two more days. Then you'll have to decide based on your own personal preferences. Kyoto was spared the ruins of war and so has the best temples and the palaces of shoguns and such. It's of course easier to get around since it's so much smaller than Tokyo.
But then again Tokyo is incredibly vibrant and exciting and has its own share of historic monuments and temples and such. I presume you're flying into Tokyo, so I guess I'd say stay there, but you are missing an incredible part of the Japanese experience if you can't make time for Kyoto too.
Even maybe one more day? That might justify an overnight to Kyoto.

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Minneapolis: About Belize: I backpacked thru Belize ten years ago -- loved it and would like to go back. But I've read that the addition of cruise ships -- and also the bleaching of the coral reefs -- have had a big negative impact on the country. Anyone been there recently and have any thoughts?

KC Summers: I was there two years ago and while I didn't notice hordes of cruisers, I think that was due more to good planning than the fact that they weren't there (the lodge I stayed at scrupulously arranged its day trips around the cruise ships' schedules). But friends of mine just returned from a trip there last week and said that when they tried to go cave tubing in the interior, the experience was ruined by a huge busload of cruisers that came through at the same time.
As for the coral reefs, I thought the snorkeling was awesome, world-class -- but am no expert, so maybe I just didn't appreciate the difference from how it used to be.
Anyone else -- quickly, only two minutes left -- want to comment on this?

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The destination is...: "What destination(s) would fit these criteria: Golf, warm in winter, non-stop flight from DC (any airport), good food, non-golf activities for wife (beach, etc.), close enough for a reasonable 4-5 day trip, not too expensive?" Charleston!

Cindy Loose: I was thinking Charleston, but the beach won't be warm enough for the wife will it?

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Tips for killing time while traveling: Hi Flight Crew. I have different routines to kill time depending on if it's in the airport on on a plane. In the airport, I walk as much as possible. To keep myself going, I allow myself to buy one trashy magazine or book and one candy bar, but only after I've looked at all the options. Once I'm on a plane, if time seems to be dragging past what I can handle with books or movies, I recommend the combination of a neck pillow, eye shade and a sleeping pill. I look like a fool, but it works like a charm.

For the Thailand-bound traveler, there's a great bike tour of Bangkok's green lung that I learned about reading this chat.

John Deiner: Everyone looks like a fool when they're sleeping on a plane, especially if there's drool involved. And thanks for the Thailand tip.

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Washington: "I was hoping to find a travel-oriented book store in such an international city as Washington, but to no avail."

Candida's World of Books! It's by Logan Circle. (I think on 13th Street?) I've had lots of success there.

washingtonpost.com: Web site for Candida's World of Books

KC Summers: Happy to put this out there, we love Candida's.

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Pittsburgh: I used to pass the time on, or waiting for, flights by knitting afghans (not much risk of running out of work!). But I don't know what the latest TSA rules are re: knitting implements: all allowed or plastic only? Or is it up to the caprice of the individual TSA inspector?

Cindy Loose: I'm trying to remember, but you should be able to find it at www.tsa.gov. And even if they say okay, caprice is always a factor so don't take any you wouldn't want to lose.

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Washington: San Francisco walking tour person again -- I forgot to include the tour Web site. It lists the schedule and all the different walks they do.

Cindy Loose: Thanks.

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RE: Renting a car in Ireland: Just remember that some rental companies in Ireland will not let you cross the border into Northern Ireland. We had this problem when we went a few years back.

KC Summers: Good point, something to check out beforehand.

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re: Banff: The main Web site is good to check out for things to do around town, including museums and events. Also, the skiing Web site is helpful. One fun thing to do is to take public transportation or a short drive up to the Upper Hot Springs, and for about $10 or so (CDN) you can take a dip in the pool. Also, the Banff Springs Hotel is gorgeous and worth walking around, because it's a sister hotel to the Chateau Lake Louise. And if you have a car go to Mackey's ice cream shop in Cochrane, which is on the way to Banff, and Peter's Drive-In (burgers, fries, milkshakes) on 16th Avenue N.E. in Calgary.

Cindy Loose: Thanks

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Manassas, Va.: RE: London. If you haven't heard of London Walks, try it. The Jack the Ripper tour (after dark of course) was especially interesting.

Cindy Loose: Sounds good. Thanks.

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Harrisburg, Pa.: Has anyone on the Flight Crew or the audience ever done freighter traveling, that is, leisure traveling on the seas on cargo ships? What are the plusses and minuses of this? Are their any good resources to research this?

Andrea Sachs: We've never been freight, though it does sound tempting to travel the open seas as human cargo. However, from prior research, I learned that freighter ships are no Carnival cruise. First, you need to commit weeks if not months, since the passage is long and in most cases you can't jump ship. Cabins for pleasure cruisers are also limited, because, remember, these are working boats. Here are some good sources: Maris Freighter and Specialty Cruises (800-996-2747), Freighter World Cruises (800-531-7774) and TravLtips (800-872-8584).

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Toronto: For the person interested in cycling around the Czech Republic, there are terrific paths (I think they are called Greenways) that go throughout the country and link up with Austria. I cycled alone (26-year-old woman) for two days in the south along the Austrian border, basing myself in Mikulov. It's a good base to explore small wineries and the chateaus of Lednice and Valtice.

On another note, I would like to follow part of the ancient Silk Road (starting in Western China and going west) this summer. All I know is that I definitely want to stop by Samarkand, maybe eventually ending up in Istanbul and/or the Dalmatian Coast. Is there a book out there that is good for planning such a journey, or a travel agency? Would you recommend that I plan this trip myself? I am planning at least four weeks on the Silk Road.

Anne McDonough: Not for real trip planning purposes as its totally outdated but get yourself a copy of Danziger's Travels by Nick Danziger. T'will inspire you-I read it at 15 and it sparked a love for the Silk Road that hasn't gone away; traveling part of the Silk Road in western China in 2001 only fueled the fire. You sound like you're up for adventure--I wouldn't go through a travel agency but rather go the independent route. Pick up a general Silk Road travel guides (I believe Lonely Planet has one) but I'd also have country-specific ones, which you could get along the way by trading with travelers headed in the other direction. Also, look at Shadow of the Silk Road (Colin Thubron), and check out the Silk Road Project (www.silkroadproject.org) for more inspiration.

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Munich Airport Long Layover: Every time I see people thinking that 5-7 hours is enough to go into the city nearby (Munich this time, London, L.A., S.F. others) I cringe at the time it takes to get back airside. Munich has a choke point passport control that is very slow for non-EU passport holders. Once it took us an hour to get through passport control, after an hour in the airline check-in line. Germans are very precise about passport control ... and that means anyone up ahead can slow things down a lot by doing something not exactly as they should.

Anne McDonough: A word of caution...thanks for chiming in with you experience.

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RE: Fatal Shore: "Fatal Shore" is a great book detailing the history of Australia. Another great Aussie book is "A Commonwealth of Thieves."

KC Summers: Thanks. FYI, there's another great new book (a novel) on the colonization of Australia, "The Secret River" by Kate Grenville.

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John Deiner: That does it for us, folks. As always, great work out there.
I'm going to throw this surprisingly cool spa kit out to New York, who supplied us with a blow-by-blow schedule on how to kill a long flight -- starting with trashy mags. Just send your home address and name to me at deinerj@washpost.com.
For the rest of you, be on the lookout for this week's Sunday section, which is our Caribbean spectacular. Have a good week!

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