Travel etiquette, Burkina Faso, Paris, cash-saving tips and more
The Flight Crew
Washington Post Travel Section
Monday, April 2, 2007
2:00 PM
The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of ... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.
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Gary Lee: Gary Lee here, fresh in from Jamaica, glad to be of help for any travel queries you have. With several colleagues out, we have a smaller than usual group on hand here. Included are travel editor KC Summers, staff writers Carol Sottili and Andrea Sachs and researcher Anne McDonough. Please lob any and all of your questions about any travel destinations or issues at us and we'll do our best to answer. If you have answers, jump in there with those, too.
Today's question is about etiquette. If you have an issue with your a fellow traveler -- say he or she is sitting next to on a plane and is too talkative, snores too loud, something else, would you talk to him or her directly, try to ignore the problem or speak toa flight attendant? Or let's say you're on a train and there is a group of schoolkids riffing loudly -- how should that be handled? Or, for that matter, in a restaurant and the next table is too rowdy? What's the best way to respond?
If you have been in these or any similar situations and have come up with a good way of addressing it, let us know. Or even if you haven't been there but have some thoughts on the subject, share them. The best story gets a great prize: a big blue tote bag with a beach towel and other beach goodies.
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Cheap London: I love the Bayswater/Queensway region of London for cheap (relatively speaking) lodgings. It's a multi-ethnic area, lots of inexpensive restaurants and take-aways, and convenient to the tube. I usually travel alone and the active street life at all hours means I'm never out alone walking home from dinner or a play.
Single rooms are VERY small, however. They are usually tucked behind other rooms or maids' closets. They remind me of a berth in a very small ship. But since I use them only to sleep, this is fine.
Anne McDonough: The Bayswater/Queensway area is filled with budget lodging (several of the hotels in yesterday's roundup where located there) -are there any particular hotels you can recommend for the other chatsters? As for single rooms being small...my room at the My Place Hotel was very, very snug. But I'm with you in thinking that the hotel is a place to sleep, not where you'll be doing your sightseeing, so who really cares about the size of the room.
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Alexandria, Va.: Hi everyone. I'm going to Paris for a week in June and I am currently looking for an apartment. I am very apprehensive about the whole process. Is it fair to say that you get what you pay for, i.e., the rental price is a real indicator of the quality of the apartment? I'm seeing a wide range of prices for what appear to be comparable properties. I'm afraid I'll go for what seems to be a relative bargain and will regret it when I get there.
Gary Lee: Alexandria: Funny you should ask. As it happens, I own an apartment in Paris, which I somethings rent out to travelers. As a rule, I rent far below the market rate for various reasons. There are probably others like me -- who know that they could charge more but don't -- and for that reason it's just as worthwhile shopping around for a Paris apartment as for apples in the fruit market. One thing I found works when looking for places to rent or trying to answer the concerns of potential tenants is references. Ask for them. Unless the jury is rigged, they're usually pretty honest about the pros and cons of a place. Often, in the case of my place, they take their own pictures, which they would probably be happy to send you.
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Washington, DC: Thank you for the Euro Shock article as it could not have come at a better time. My mom, sister and I are going to London for 8 days towards the end of May. I'm in the process of booking a hotel and talk about sticker shock! It looks like that we are going to spend at the minimum $1,700. Now, if I were going solo I could lay my head just about anywhere for the cheapest price. But, the more comfortable my mom will be the less stress it will be for me. I have searched for several days on the web looking for lodging and this process has been frustrating. But, I did get some very helpful tips from your article that I plan to use.
Anne McDonough: Hi DC,
Thanks for reading! If you haven't booked your airfare already, look into a package air/hotel deal. But if you're set on flights then take a look at Visit London's accommodation ideas (www.visitlondon.com) and look out for a post that's coming up just after this one, from a reader with good London accommodation experience.
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Good hair days ahead: Hi Flight Crew!
Headed to Europe in June, staying in hostels. Now, I know I should be able to throw caution to the wind and do without a hair dryer, but let's be serious: it ain't gonna happen. So: where can I get a converter/adapter or, better, yet, order a travel size dryer with a European plug so I don't have to carry the bulky hardware? Thanks!
KC Summers: You know, after years of travel I've come to the conclusion that it's just easier to give up on looking perfect while traveling -- it's just not worth all the hairdryer angst, and worrying about the voltage and converters and all that. However, I sense you're not at that point yet.
You'll not only need an adapter (the thing you stick in the European socket to make it fit your plug) but also a converter (the thing that converts the voltage so you won't burn the hostel down). YOu can get these at any travel store -- in DC, Lane's Luggage is good, or the travel stores at airports.
Re the dryer itself, it's not a matter of buying one with a "European plug" because different countries in Europe have different sockets. Easiest of all: buying a hairdryer when you get there, and then you'll have it for future trips.
Here's a good primer on European electronics: http://goeurope.about.com/cs/electricity/l/bl_electricity.htm
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London Calling - LondonTown.Com: Today's "London Hotels" article left out the best all-around booking & reservations information system for London & the UK around: LondonTown.Com. I used them in November for my 10-day trip (in part based on seeing their name in Flight Crew chat transcript archives), and got not only hotel (right around $100-$120/night for the New Linden Hotel in Bayswater), but also discount theater tickets in advance. LondonTown.com also has a contact mechanism for B&Bs, too. The other resource I used for looking up small locations and private B&Bs was Alastair Sawday's (www.sawdays.co.uk/home.html) "Special Places to Stay" web site. I received prompt and friendly responses from almost every location I contacted about availability-- I made nearly 20 contacts in all. Some of them also referred me to other hosts/owners if they didn't have available rooms at their locations.
Anne McDonough: For the London-bound Washingtonian sisters and mom...
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Washington, DC: Aer Lingus has just announced a new route from IAD to Dublin. I want to book flights for December on American Express Travel or Travelocity but the flights are not available on these sites yet, only on the Aer Lingus site. Is there a standard amount of time for new routes before they are available elsewhere?
Carol Sottili: I've left a message with the Aer Lingus folks re: your question, and if they get back to me by the end of the hour, I'll post the response. But why do you want to book through a third party? Cheapest fares ($375 round trip with taxes for Sept. 3-30, slightly higher after that) are available only at www.aerlingus.com. Even if they post the service on the third-party sites, price will likely be higher.
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Silver Spring, Md.: How to deal with annoying people, you say? Heh. I would silently ignore in my good Anglo-Saxon way. (While silently sticking mental pins into imaginary voodoo dolls.) Certainly if I were traveling internationally, I'd never say anything about an annoyance on the road. That's all the American Overseas needs - a reputation for whininess. And on domestic travel, I think I'd pretty much keep my mouth shut and wait for it to be over.
About 10 years ago, I was once on a train from Greece to Turkey. Until recently, Turkey had charged a visa fee only for Americans, so this Dutch guy in my compartment on the train took the opportunity to blab on and on and on to his friends and me and my (also American) friend about how the train was going to be delayed at the border only because of the Americans, and it's so annoying, and why do we even travel because the rest of the world hates us anyway. We moved to another compartment, and got our silent vindication when it turned out Turkey had changed the rules and now required citizens of many countries to pay for visas at the border. Hahaha.
Gary Lee: Hey, thanks for that thoughtful answer. Sounds like you have come up with a formula that works.
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Pittsburgh, Pa: Hi Crew! I think that I am in big trouble; I have tickets to travel to Ireland and Great Britain on 4-19. Unfortunately, this past weekend I noticed that I could not find my passport! I just went to the Post Office and was told that I would probably NOT be able to receive even an expedited passport in that amount of time. Any advice or help you can provide ould be greatly appreciated!
Andrea Sachs: Did you look in the pocket of the coat you wore on your last trip? If your passport is truly lost, you need to talk to someone at the National Passport Information Center at 1111 19th St. (they close at 3 p.m., so call now; 877-487-2778). Also, pull together all of the essentials materials, such as valid ID, trip information, check, etc., to make sure nothing is missing. Meanwhile, work the other end and call the airline and ask for their suggestions. (I am awaiting a call back from the State Department to get the official word.)
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Washington: Thanks for the great chats!
I just wanted to throw out a plug for a lesser known African destination: Burkina Faso. I just got back from a trip to Burkina, and had a wonderful time. While you won't have the tourist infrastructure that exists in Southern Africa, there isn't any tourist infrastructure standing between you and "real Africa."
We came very close to a herd of elephants in Deux Bales National Park, climbed an amazing waterfall at Karfiguela, and scaled the domes at Banfora (similar to the domes in Australia, but more rugged and natural). The best part was that in none of those places did we see more than four other tourists--we pretty much had them to ourselves, and even better, there were no barriers between us and the wild.
Accommodations are certainly not luxurious outside of the major cities, but there are clean and functional places nearly everywhere. The Burkinabe were extremely friendly and willing to help us with whatever we needed. We felt safer in Burkina than we do when we're walking around Washington (the only time I felt threatened was when our bus swerved to avoid missing a goat in the road!). One caveat: speaking French is a must as almost no one speaks English.
I just wanted to suggest that people explore beyond the tourist hot spots to see what else is out there--I'm glad I did!
KC Summers: Thanks for that great ground-level report. We're all for exploring beyond the usual hot spots -- thanks for the inspiration! How did the costs compare with the more-visited African safari spots?
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University Park, Md: FF Tickets timing: We are planning (OK, hoping) to use our FF miles to get tickets from Paris to DC in April 08. My question is about timing. When do most airlines open their schedules for free seats? And do you know any that will allow us to use FF for a one-way ticket? Many thanks!
Carol Sottili: April shouldn't be impossible to get. Try your luck 331 days in advance of travel (that's when flight schedules open). I've used frequent flyer miles to go one way, but they charged me the same as a round-trip ticket. Don't know of any airlines that prorate.
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Arlington, VA: re: Your Money's Worth in London
London has a TKTS booth in Leicester Square selling half-price tickets to West End shows. Just like the TKTS booth in Times Square.
There are two historic Routemaster routes (9 and 15, both very scenic with lots of sites) that still run the iconic double-decker buses. Transport for London has (or used to have) a web page for it, but I cannot find it in their redesigned website.
For classical music, if you're in London in August and September, you can queue up for a standing-room ticket for the Proms at Royal Albert Hall.
Anne McDonough: Thanks for the tips, Arlington! The routemaster info was in yesterday's London package (this site, http://www.routemaster.org.uk/rmnews.htm, lists the stops for the 9 and 15).
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Easter in Cologne: Hi Crew! Quick question: Leaving Friday for Cologne. Since Sunday is Easter would you expect things to be open on that day?
Gary Lee: Lovely city. Good choice. Easter service in the cathedral should be special. I have been in Cologne at Easter. As I recall, art museums -- which are great in that artsy city -- are open. Some restaurants as well. But most of the city shops, etc. are closed on every Sunday and will certainly be on this one.
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Stafford, Va: Leaving from BWI this week and will be gone for 2 weeks...looking at using one of the alternatives (Econopark) to BWI Airport Parking...do you have any experiences with these alternatives? Any recommendations??
Andrea Sachs: I am a platinum parker at Econopark. They are easy to find, affordable, give out free water and come right to your car--unlike some other long-term parking places we know. Don't forget to print out the coupon at www.econoparkexpress.com to save $2.20 per day.
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Baltimore, MD: I know that airfare to Europe drops dramatically for fall travel compared to summer. When do the fall fares generally become available?
Carol Sottili: Generally, fares drop in October, but there are always fare sales that defy the norm. Keep up with the fare trends by going to www.farecompare.com and www.farecast.com. Sign up for fare notifications at www.orbitz.com and www.kayak.com.
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Silver Spring, Md.: Here's a not-exactly-travel question for you - as in, someone else's travel. Is there a pleasant, clean, inexpensive hotel in the Dupont Circle area? Or am I dreaming? How about anywhere else inside the city, on the metro?
KC Summers: Depends what you mean by "inexpensive," but what about the Jury's Hotel right at Dupont Circle? I just checked and found a room for $139 for this coming weekend (www.jurysdoyle.com). Or you could try my favorite DC hotel, the Tabard Inn on N Street, with rooms at $148 ($103 with shared bath).
Other DC hotel ideas for SS?
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Washington, DC: Happy Monday, wonderful people! A close girlfriend and I are finally planning a long-desired trip to the South Carolina's Gullah Islands over Memorial day weekend. I know the official festival is the weekend before but this works for us. We want and experience rich (and accurate) in the black history and culture of the Gullah Islands and would like to stay far away from stereotypical sterile tourism or Hilton Head beachy vibe. We'd love to stay on one of the islands (maybe St. Helena) in a charming old hotel or B&B and find a good tour group/guide or three. Any suggestions? Would it make more sense to be based in Charleston instead of on one of the islands? Thanks for any help you can give and I PROMISE to report back.
Gary Lee: Both Charlestown and Hilton Head have strong gullah and geechee traditions but you're better off these days finding the gullah cultures in one of the islands. We are most fond of Beaufort, which is dripping with charm and has nice bed and breakfasts. We strongly urge you to contact the folks at the Penn Center down there (www.penncenter.com) They have done a lot to promote the preservation of gullah culture and should have some good tips on guides and places to stay.
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Gaithersburg, MD: OOOOO! PLEASE HELP! I REALLY need to ask you all about this and I'm more than happy to hear from the 'nuts out there too!
First, THANK YOU for the special on London yesterday as I am going to London three weeks from today! WOOHOO! But, one reason I am NOT excited? I am not, well, thin. I am about a size 18. I'm worried about what other countries think about Americans. They all assume we're fat and well, I sorta am. I'm scared I'll be a big, fat freak over there and be made fun of or chuckled at. Are my fears unfounded? How ARE people of more than ample weight treated?
Signed, Scared cuz I'm Not Perfect PS: I do travel everywhere else without a care in the world, but this is my first trip to Europe, the land of the beautiful!
Anne McDonough: Gaithersburg, I think you'll have a wonderful time. I think the important thing to do is to leave the body image concerns at home and not feed into the Ugly American ATTITUDE. What makes me cringe about being American abroad is when I see folks being pushy, comparing everything to the US, refusing to be adventurous, talking at the top of their lungs, etc. Stand to the right on the escalators on the Tube--not following that rule more than anything is a legitimate complaint against tourists--and you'll do just fine. Anyone want to chime in on this?
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NY: RE dealing with annoyances: the thing is, some of them just don't have to be labeled as such. For example - in many countries - Mediterranean and Asian alike - you don't get what you call an 'orderly queue'. You get no queue at all. It's a free for all. Does that mean people are rude and mannerless? Nope - if you can think of rabid fans and how they swarm at the sight of their idol - you can understand and get past feeling annoyed. It's all about context.
Gary Lee: That's a good point, New York, much thanks.
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Harpers Ferry, WV: I just got back from a trip to London made possible by a great package deal offered by British Airways back in Nov. My friend and I had r/t air from Dulles to Heathrow, seven nights of lodging in a great hotel in Bayswater - "The Phoenix" (which included a huge breakfast buffet) for $800 each.
I had worried about the hotel before we left, but I cannot say enough good about this hotel. Great location , great price, helpful front desk. They even let me use their printer in the office so I could print our boarding passes the day before we left.
I wish I could say the BA flight was as accomodating - but for that price, who cares?
Anne McDonough: The Phoenix wasn't on our list-thanks for bringing it to our attention. And MAN that's a great deal!
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Arlington, VA: The Europe article mentioned that the relatively higher prices in Euroland do not seem to be deterring Americans from going. In a way I suppose that is a good thing. I personally am returning to Asia again this year instead of doing Europe. Of course with the Thai baht continuing its crazy rise against the dollar it may end up being just as expensive before I go in November. But I am booked in pretty luxurious accommodations that are nicer than what I would get in Europe for the same price. I suppose this is what happens when you have massive national debts.
KC Summers: Yeah, same thing with South America -- you can definitely stay in much nicer places for the same amount of money you'd plunk down in Europe, yet I still am repeatedly drawn to Europe.... Of course, that's why I'm headed for the poorhouse, too.
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Washington DC: Renting in Paris:
I have several years of professional experience in this, and am happy to share it. I would say, by and large, you do get what you pay for. Owners like Gary who are willing to rent a quality place below market value are few and far between, in my experience. Most owners need to subsidize their costs with rental income, and since normal occupancy rates are around 30-50%, the owner can't risk passing up the dough. Especially with the rampant euro.
Here are some key points to pay attention to:
Stairs/ elevator. Not everyone can climb five or six flights of stairs. If you're there for a week, you'll have luggage and at least one batch of groceries. Make sure you're up for the climb before you sign.
Square footage. I've seen AMAZING things done with a wide-angle lens. Inform yourself about how big 30 square meters actually is. (Pretty tiny.)
Rights of the owner. Do you mind having the owner coming in to access his storage area while you're in residence? How about showing the place to potential renters? Some people don't mind at all, if it means knocking a few hundred bucks off the rate. This is a deal-breaker for me.
Linens and other "extras". The shadier operations will make this a hidden extra cost. Ditto for utilities. A good, professional rental will include linens and utilities at a minimum, and higher end ones will wrap in the cost of end-of-stay cleaning and maybe even a mid-stay clean.
And of course, location. Know what you want to do while you're there, and plan accordingly. The 16th arrondissement is one of the tonier residential neighborhoods, but frankly, lots of it is really far away from the action. The 2nd is close to the middle of the map, (Heart Of Paris!!) but unless you're really into discount chain clothing stores, there's not a whole lot for a tourist to do there.
Finally, to echo what Gary said, REFERENCES! A reputable property will have lots of happy former clients, and the owner/manager will WANT you to contact them. Consider the ignored reference request a blessing, as it tells you everything you need to know.
Bon voyage!
Gary Lee: Hey, thanks for this thorough and objective checklist. Very worthwhile.
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Arlington, VA: Did any of you manage to snag those special Silverjet $401 (all included) promo fares Newark-Luton? Sounds like a nice service, yet another all biz class line to compete with MaxJet and EOS.
Carol Sottili: Fare is now $899 each way plus taxes ($1,953 round trip with taxes). Sounds nice: you don't have to get to the airport until 30 minutes before flight time and seats are all flat-bed. I just can't see how all of these similar airlines can stay in business.
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re: Burkina: ha--I lived in a neighboring country for a few years and went to Burkina with a friend. Out of the 14 countries in Africa I traveled, not only is the only one I got mugged, but nobody helped during the actual mugging (though they did gather round and afterwards someone walked us back to our accommodations). We'd rented a room from some nuns and the next morning I told the Mother what happened and she didn't bat an eyelash! That was in Ouaga. In another town we were followed by a guy after departing our bus and he continued to stalk us--even after we changed hotels because of him. Sorry, bottom line is every country is different and always be careful.
KC Summers: Another perspective on Burkina Faso. And yes, "always be careful" is a good motto wherever you travel.
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Washington, D.C.: For traveler etiquette, if someone is misbehaving, I will generally call them on it in a polite but firm way. A few weeks ago a guy in line for the ticket counter just kept pushing his bag farther along, and farther along, and farther along, and eventually it occurred to me he was trying to jump the line. I said Excuse me, and told him I didn't know if he was aware of it, but since the two of us had been there longer than he had, it wouldn't be fair for him to move ahead of us in line. He apologized profusely and said it was a complete accident, and although I didn't believe him for a minute, it all turned out fine. Don't let line-jumpers get away with it!
Gary Lee: That is a good example and you handled it well. Thanks. It could get you a prize!
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duPont circle hotels: we stayed at the Embassy suites in March in dupont and if I remember correctly, we paid $165/night that included garage parking and hot breakfast...
KC Summers: There you go, SS.
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Washington, D.C. : Cheap hotels on the Metro: the least expensive hotel in Northwest DC on the Metro itself is the Days Inn at Van Ness, which is usually around $100, but goes as high as $130 and as low as $70 depending on season. If you want cheaper than that, you will have to go to a B&B with a shared bathroom, or leave the city. Not sure if this is what you're looking for, but "inexpensive" means different things to different people. And if you're booking the Jurys make sure you book the one that's right on Dupont Circle -- there's a cheaper one up the street but it is not particularly close to public transportation.
KC Summers: Good tips, thanks Wash.
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North Bethesda, MD: scary story about flight-mate--
Coming back from Jamaica at New Year's and the lady in the next seat did not fasten her belt or her daughter's. She carefully put a blanket on their laps to hide from the stewardess. I wasn't sure what to do or if I could get up from my seat to tell the stewardess. This lady was overweight and I assumed it was uncomfortable so she was waiting until last minute. When it was clear she wasn't going to fasten, I just asked. She fumbled and -pretended- to try and fasten it (I think she did make her child put on the belt). After take off I casually went to the stewardess and told her mentioning that the person might need an extender. The stewardess came over and was very direct with the passenger who immediatly began yelling at me! I cringed in my seat--what else could I do? I also knew that my safety was at risk and mentioned that her daughter seemed lovely and that I would hate to see her become an orphan---strong, I know. This lady continued to lambast me and, frankly, I was pissed at the stewardess and wrote a complaint letter to the airlines because this person did NOT do her job which is to ensure that passengers buckle in. This was the second time in recent weeks it happened. Whew! Next time---I would get out of my seat earlier and say something to the stewardess insisting that she also change my seat.
Gary Lee: Oh, dear. That is a scary story. But it sounds like you did what you could.
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Fairfax, VA: My husband has figured out that my favorite gifts are those of time and travel and for the second year in a row has given me my choice of a special weekend. Last year we went to Annapolis, stayed in the Governor's Inn, walked around the old city, Naval Academy, etc., had drinks outside, etc.. What should we do this year? We want someplace a reasonable drive for a weekend (preferably to get to Friday night after work). He hates the idea of a B&B with frou-frou decor and an owner or other guests he has to interact with, but I much prefer a place with personality to a chain hotel. We both like to walk - either in nature or an appealing town area - and good places nearby to eat. Nearby waterfront is a big plus. Something in case of inclement weather might be a good idea.
I've thought of Baltimore, Richmond (both seem a little urban), James River plantations, Eastern shore, but haven't come up with anything specific. The timeframe is uncertain - could be late April, early June, or much later.
Suggestions, please?
Andrea Sachs: Though you spent last year's birthday in the vicinity, I suggest you keep on going east . . . to Easton. The town has loads of fine dining (see Gary's recent Escapes at www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/ 03/20/AR2007032001447.html) and nearby natural attractions, such as the Pickering Creek Audubon Center and the Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge. Stay at the Tidwater Inn, which has tradition but also a hipper edge at its Local restaurant and bar. For diversions, take the ferry to St. Michaels (museums, shopping, biking, etc.), or join in a festival: There always seems to be some kind of waterfowl or seafood celebration going on.
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BWI parking: totally recommend airportfastpark.com
cheap prices and fab service! When you pull in, they tell you where an open space is and a van follows you, loads your suitcase and takes you to the airport right away! They give you a card with your space number on it. On the other end, hand the driver your card and you get dropped right at your car.
Andrea Sachs: Haven't tried that one--but it sounds good.
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More on Econopark ...:... Dont forget to mention that if you sign up for their (free) frequent parker program, they send you a membership card that you can use when you park so you will always get their internet discount without having to remember to go online and print it out. I love that place. And since I learned about it from this chat, I love the Flight Crew, too!
Andrea Sachs: Thanks for reminding me--and for loving us!
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Washington, D.C.: We just booked round-trip first-class tickets for our honeymoon using frequent flier miles. I've never used them before, so this may be a stupid question, but... is everything the same from here on out? If there's some hiccup with travel, are we more likely to get penalized because our seats are "free"? Or is the reason people feel like FF miles are hard to use is more because of blackout dates and availability, and not what happens once you're on the road?
Carol Sottili: I think that your status with the airline (whether you're a frequent traveler) has more to do with bumping than what type of ticket you are flying on. And I think an airline would have to be particularly heartless to bump honeymooners. Wear something that shows off your newly married state.
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Arlington, VA: re: saving money in Paris
For a great cheap meal, you can't beat L'As du Fallafel on Rue de Rosiers in the Pletzl. Best falafel outside of Israel. And then getting a challah loaf at Finkelstejn (sp?)... although you won't be able to right now due to Passover.
Anne McDonough: Thanks for the reminder, Arl! I haven't been to L'As du Falafel in years but it was truly amazing--I think it's the one that gained "fame" as being one of Lenny Kravitz's favorite falafel places. Anyway, go!
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Washington Dc: To Gaithersburg, worried about his/her appearance to Europeans:
While in Europe, I'm always reminded that no where in the world do people have as much cosmetic surgery as we in the States have. My first trip to Europe some fifteen years ago, I was amazed at the number of people with crooked teeth, jughandle ears, receding chins, etc. And right now, clothing styles and global cuisine (read, McDonalds) are such that you can't walk a block without seeing a dozen girls sporting the muffin-top look. I'm not casting aspursions: just noting that the beautiful-European thing is a PR myth.
So please don't worry. We Americans are capable of an openness and friendliness that can smooth our passage everywhere. For the rare exception who looks down his beaky nose at you, you'll meet a dozen people who will respond to your warmth and enthusiasm. And don't do the pushy, judgy thing. That goes without saying.
Anne McDonough: Hear that, Gaithersburg?
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Alexandria VA: Last week there was a story about a girl kicked off a flight because she was coughing too much. Sure enough, all airlines' contract of carriage allow the captain to remove a passenger if he thinks that passenger could be contagious.
It's the first I've heard of this. How often does it happen?
KC Summers: Yeah, for those who haven't heard, a teenage girl from Hawaii who was on a school trip to Washington and New York last week had a coughing fit while waiting to take off from Newark on Continental -- lost her breath, panicked and couldn't talk. The captain went back to the gate and dumped her out (with a teacher) -- despite the fact that she calmed down when the flight attendants gave her water, and a doctor on board said she was probably okay to fly. Continental later reimbursed their expenses and explained that the captain felt it was best not to take a chance, pointing out that it was a 10-hour flight, much of it over water. So it wasn't so much that they thought she was contagious but that they wanted to avoid having to make an emergency landing and inconveniencing all the other passengers. I can see their reasoning.
And yes, this sort of thing does seem to be becoming more common, based on anecdotal evidence.
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Chicago IL: For plus-size Gaithersburg: I'd echo your comments and also point out that Britain is not exactly a thin country, either. So not sure whether that makes you feel better or not but the Brits are on average pretty hefty themselves. A size 18 isn't going to stand out by and large. Just go and have fun!
Anne McDonough: And another thought...
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RE Plus sized lady in London: I lived in the UK for 7 years, size over 18. Only place I felt I didn't belong was Harrods--when a plus sized American was kicked out for esthetic reasons to do with wearing something she had actually bought in Harrods. So, stay out of Harrods. This made the newspapers. Remember that everyone is wider now than when theatre seats, cinema seats, bus seats were designed and be aware that they may pinch. Also don't plonk your stuff in the seat next to you on public transport during rush hour (a common complaint there, and here too). It's about taking up more than your share of space.
Anne McDonough: And another...
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Jamaica: Gary, where did you go in Jamaica? I'm going to Negril for my honeymoon at the end of the month. Any places (restaurants/bars/sites) you can recommend?
Thanks!
Gary Lee: I did not go to Negril this time but I know it from past trips. I like many of the old standbys there. Rockhouse, a small hotel with a nice bar and restaurant, always ahs a good vibe. Rick's is an excellent spot for sunset drinks. Norma's, although a bit pricey, has some of the best food around. For jerk chicken or other local fare at a good price, try West End Road.
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Arlington, Va: My wife and I are flying to Seattle and driving to Vancouver this summer. I've heard that I won't need a passport to drive into Canada, but will I need one to get back into the US? I don't have a passport and need to know if time is at a premium for me now. Thank you!
Andrea Sachs: You do not need a passport yet to enter or leave Canada by land or sea. That change is coming by Jan. 1, 2008. However, it always wise to get your passport as soon as possible. Since the intiative has been announced, the passport facilities have seen a sharp rise in applications. Usually, process time is four to six weeks.
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Burkina: Costs were extremely low--for one week in country, we spent less than $300 for two people including lodging, food, guides, and in-country transportation. The major expense is definitely getting there (and the souvenirs you end up buying!).
KC Summers: Wow, amazing deal.
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Issues with travelers....: The only time I brought a flight attendant into something was when the two underage boys sitting next to me on a flight from BWI to Vegas were noisily using chewing tobacco. She was more than happy to inform them that they needed to stop. Immediately.
Gary Lee: Well done. Thanks for sharing.
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Stand to the right on the tube: This confused the heck out of me when we were in Scotland a few months ago. I would have thought that in countries where they drive on the left, you'd stand to the left on escalators, etc. I know it's not a huge deal, but do you have any idea why they stand to the right in the UK?
Trying to be a considerate tourist, I tried to figure out whether to stay on the left or the right on the sidewalks (left like the roads or right like the escalators?) but I never could see a pattern. It seemed like there was no "rule" for how to walk on crowded sidewalks.
KC Summers: What a great question! You're right, by all rights those blokes should be standing on the left. Can any Brits out there weigh in?
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Washington, D.C.: Have any of y'all stayed at the Four Seasons Wailea on Maui? It's supposed to be just incredible, and we were thinking about splurging on a couple nights, but I have never paid so much money in my life for a hotel. Under what conditions would you say Go for it, and under what conditions would you say, stay elsewhere on the island for less?
Andrea Sachs: We have not stayed at the Four Season Wailea, but if any chatter has, please help Washington D.C. decide on whether to blow the bank or not.
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Arlington, VA: Hi, Anne!
My bad... I just re-read the article and noticed the paragraph about the Routemasters!
For cheap, decent food in London, how about the Pret-A-Manger sandwich shops? Starbucks sells sandwiches too over there, as do Marks & Spencer, Hart's the Grocer, Waitrose and pretty much everywhere that sells food.
Anne McDonough: Hey Arl, no worries ;) Pret, Simply Food, all those places are good for picking up a sandwich and doing a little self-catering (the details box also listed places to pick up wine on the cheap, too). it sounds obvious, but just skipping the sit-down part of a meal saves a lot of money when you're traveling!
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Bethesda Mom: About a year ago, I was traveling on Amtrak from NYC back to DC on a weekend when there was no quiet car on the train. A group of soldiers got on at Newark, and proceeded to spend the rest of the trip drinking beer and loudly talking on their cell phones and to eachother about just what sort of activities they planned to engage in while on leave. As the talk became increasingly more x-rated and louder, I leaned over to the soldier sitting in front of me and said that, while I didn't mind the discussion (in fact, the volume was driving me crazy, but I didn't think that could carry much weight), it was distressing the elderly lady sitting next to me and could they please watch their language and keep it down a little.
He apologized and the group then went off to the cafe car for a long interval.
Gary Lee: Hey, Bethesda, it seems like you handled that one well. Thanks for the story. I have put our story in the pot as a potential prize winner.
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Central Cal: The Unruly: On a plane, put on the headphones and put on the music loud, then pantomime "can't hear". If there's a tv monitor "gotta check my stocks or watching the movie". Pull out a book and put your nose deep into it. If all else fails, show some twitches or emit soft unnerving sounds or other milk psychopathic behavior.
When that fails, I just remember that this isn't gonna last forever and grab a Xanax.
Gary Lee: Hey, thanks for those tips.
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Washington, DC: I am going to Rome for a week later this month. I would like to be able to keep in touch with my kids, but won't be able to use my cell phone there. I am thinking about purchasing an international calling card. Can you recommend one? Also, a friend has suggested taking foreign currency (Euro) traveler checks. Is this a reasonable idea?
KC Summers: Hi Wash. We published the definitive "phoning home" story a few months ago -- it covered all the gamuts and was understandable even to a non-techie like me. Link coming up.
Re travelers checks, we generally don't recommend them, in whatever currency. Many shops and establishments don't accept them and it's just easier to use your credit card, both to charge stuff and to get cash from ATMs.
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Arlington, Va: re: Capital Ideas: Cost-Cutting Strategies for Five European Cities
When I went to Paris in November, my 6-day Paris Museum Pass (60 euros) more than paid for itself. Versailles alone was 25 euros on the Sunday I went. I also used the Paris Museum Pass at the Louvre, Orangerie (where the huge Monet water lilies paintings are), Musee d'Orsay, Musee Rodin, Napoleon's Tomb, Arc de Triomphe, tower walk at Notre Dame, Sainte-Chapelle and Pantheon.
The only sightseeing that the Paris Museum Pass did not cover were the Eiffel Tower, the Catacombs and a guided tour of Palais Garnier (the ornate opera house).
What a great deal for nearly every major site in the City of Lights!
And the Carnet for the Metro... that, a few single Metro tickets (for the longer trips such as to and from the airport and the day trip to Versailles) and my feet were all I needed to get around.
Anne McDonough: It sounds like the pass worked just perfectly for you. What I'd suggest, if you're headed to a city and wondering if an attractions pass is worth it, is figure out your favored itinerary and then see if the pass saves you any money. I didn't get a London Pass because I'd have to go to three paying attractions to make it worth it for the one day pass, and with so much fun, free stuff going on I just couldn't see myself doing that. But for others, like in your experience, it works out just fine.
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Dupont hotel: check out B&Bs. There are numerous lovely ones and you can find deals...
KC Summers: Yeah, if you like B&Bs.
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Traveling to Japan in September...: and eyeing tickets on asia.com, which are selling discounted United tickets. Any word on these guys? I've never used a ticket consolidator before, but saving about $700 between two tickets sounds good to me (and not "too good to be true" as some fares are). Thanks!
Carol Sottili: Never heard of the company, but that's not unusual when it comes to consolidators. They are not members of the United States Air Consolidators, but that alone doesn't mean all that much. I tried looking up their record with the Better Business Bureau, and they are listed, but the site is currently down. Try it later at www.bbb.org.
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Washington DC: Re: Frequent Flier miles. We just returned from a trip to Paris using our FF miles. For this trip (last week in March) we booked back in July, and paid about $60 in taxes each.
The funny thing is, on the way back, the flight was overbooked so they were looking for volunteers for a later flight. We decided to volunteer after learning that we'd each get vouchers of 300 euro, redeemable for up to a year. I'll be watching to see how the dollar is faring before converting the vouchers for a domestic trip.
Carol Sottili: Worked out well for you!
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Philadelphia, PA: Gary - what a stroke of luck that you just came back from Jamaica! What city(ies) did you go to?
I'm heading to Montego Bay, Jamaica for the first time. Can you give me tips on identifying taxi drivers to get me to and from the hotel without paying the inflated tourist rates? And, if you're familiar with Montego Bay, any tips on where to eat and what beaches to go to would be greatly appreciated!
Gary Lee: Philly: I was mostly in Montego Bay. Your question about the taxis is a good one. Here is what I would do: if you are not too tired or harried when you arrive, ask around at the airport for a taxi to take you to your hotel. You will be offered different rates. When you strike a deal, ask that driver if he (or she) will be your driver for the rest of your stay, ie pick you up when you want to go somewhere. Usually they are amenable. Just make sure then have a license.
About eating out -- I like the restaurant at Round Hill, especially Jamaica Night, which I believe is Friday. For something great if a bit pricey, go for the Boathouse. In the downtown area, there's a good place called Nikita's.
I don't know enough about beaches to recommend one over another? Does anyone?
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Gabbing Flight Attendants: Twice recently I've overheard flight attendants having not-entirely-polite conversations, about both passengers and fellow crew members. Apparently some need reminding that this type of behavior does not inspire confidence in their professionalism, nor does it contribute to a pleasant flight.
Gary Lee: That's a different perspective. Much thanks.
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Last Minute Guatemala: Hello Flight Crew.
My wife and I are headed to Guatemala to visit our soon-to-be son for the first time in two weeks...we just got clearance to visit. If you had 24 hours...and one night...to spend anywhere in the country outside of Antigua/Guatemala City...where would it be? Tikal? Chichicastenago? on a helicopter tour? sky is the limit.
Anne McDonough: Congrats!!! Coming up should be a link to Steve Hendrix's story about Guatemala that ran a while back...perhaps something in that will spark your fancy. For a splurge, near Tikal there's Francis Ford Coppola's ranch...(http://lalancha.com/).
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Owasso, Okla: Hello Flight Crew, Anyone driven in rural England lately? I'm planning a seven- day driving segment, picking up a car in Oxford and driving through Cotswolds, south to Bath and dumping the car before I get back to London. While I haven't driven there for 20 years, I had no concerns until friends started questioning my choice. They spin tales of tour buses clogging the narrow rural roads, hard-to-find parking, back-ups on motorways. I've also heard that public transport in the countryside is not the best choice. Advice? Thanks.
KC Summers: I'll throw this one out to the chatters since none of us has driven in England lately. But I'd venture to say it's very similar to Ireland, where I have driven. Tour buses and sheep did indeed clog the narrow roads, signage was sometimes nonexistent or confusing, driving on the left was a little scary, and it took twice as long to get places as we thought it would -- but it was a wonderful experience and I loved it. There's no better way to see the countryside and meet people (especially if you get a flat!), plus you can get places public transport doesn't go, so just take your time and roll with it. Oh, and watch out for the roundabouts (traffic circles) -- that's the only time I got screwed up driving on the left. Otherwise you adapt very easily.
Anyone out there driven in rural England lately?
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washingtonpost.com: Guatemala Rising, (Oct. 30, 2005)
Anne McDonough: For the Guatemala-bound. Thanks for the link, Kim!
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TGV question: Hi there!
Going to Paris in May. Hubby wants to take a trip on the TGV. We've ruled out going to London.
Initially, we though of Poiters for the Futuroscope park. First, does anyone know anything about this park and whether it would be good for a 6 year old girl?
We were also thinking of Brussels (1h22m by TGV, is that amazing??!) for the day. Any thoughts for this choice?
Any other suggestions on where the 3 of us could go for a day trip out of Paris on the TGV?
Thanks!
Gary Lee: I vote for Brussels or Lyons. You could get a great lunch and have a couple of hours of sightseeing in either place and be back for dinner!
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washingtonpost.com: Make the Right Call, (Sept. 4, 2006)
KC Summers: Here's our recent piece on the best ways to phone home from abroad. Thanks Kim.
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Silver Spring, Md: I am leaving soon to visit family overseas. Any suggestions for small, local gifts that I can pick up before leaving? I'd like to give something to my elderly aunt and uncle, as well as have a few small things on hand to give as thank you/hostess gifts throughout my stay with various cousins, etc.
Andrea Sachs: You can't go wrong with tried-and-true gifts like notecards featuring photos of this region or art from the Smithsonian museums, spices or seasonings (Chesapeake Bay, for example), baseball caps (Go Nats!) or trinkets from the White House, Supreme Court or Capitol gift shops, like logoed pens or coasters. The Smithsonian museums also have exceptional gift shops.
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Budget London: I travel at least once a year to London for fun, and in recent years have used Priceline bids with great success. I usually stick to the 4- bids. Last week I stayed at the Hilton Metropole, an excellent hotel close to Paddington station, for $80/night ($96/night including taxes and fees). Using Priceline well takes a lot of research beforehand (checking biddingfortravel.com, for instance) but can really pay off. Plus, it may be the only affordable way to get air-conditioning in your hotel room - a consideration now that London summers have gotten so much hotter.
Anne McDonough: Priceline's another good option-thanks for the tip!
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Arlington, VA: Re the Four Seasons Maui. We stayed there in October 2005 for two weeks for our honeymoon and it was absolutely spectacular. It's on the best part of the island in that it gets the least rainfall. The weather was perfect the whole time. More importantly, the FS sticker price includes a lot of extras. For example, our rate included breakfast that would have cost $50 each morning (and was less than the "standard" rate). You get cabanas by the pool, ocean canoe lessons, cold towels and afternoon snacks (fresh fruit, etc.) by the pool...all for free! I think that the Grand Wailea charges over $100 a day for just a cabana rental. Plus, the rooms are large and the service spectacular. It's also smaller and less crowded than nearby hotels....one of which has an enormous water park in the middle. So, if you can afford any of those hotels in Wailea, Four Seasons is the way to go. Once you account for all the extras and whatnot, it's not much more.
Andrea Sachs: Thanks for the review. Makes the large bill more bearable.
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Colorado: I"m going to Paris for about two and half weeks, and I was
wondering if you had any info about health clubs that might
offer temporary/visitor memberships?
Gary Lee: Colorado: I have tried this before and have usually found the daily/weekly rates at most places incredibly high. If I were you I would approach one of the US chain places there -- Marriott, Hilton, etc. and ask if they have daily rates. Most of the time they are more reasonable. Anyone else have tips here?
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Frederick, Md: My best example of The Helpful Stranger happened to us in New Zealand. We mistakenly thought that the inter-island ferry schedule would allow connection with the South Island train departure on the other end. We arrived early at the ferry terminal,and by chance mentioned our intent to connect with the train. The helpful Ferrymaster saw the problem and made several calls on our behalf, ending up booking a flight on a small plane which would accomplish the connection, refunding our ferry tickets, and personally helping his crew extricate our luggage which by then was buried under all of the later arriving ferry passengers. Then a ferry employee took us to the airport in his personal vehicle and guided us through the terminal to the small plane gate and when confronted at the gate that the plane was already loaded, insisted that they load us on, since they had been called, and knew we were coming. Amazing bit of going far beyond the call of duty on behalf of strangers, when it wasn't their fault at all!
Gary Lee: Hey, nice story, much thanks.
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Washington, DC: Re: Passport problem.
Noticed the posting party was in Pittsburgh, so our regional passport office may be a bit of a stretch. But, if you can get a morning appointment at any regional passport center (you MUST be traveling within 14 days) you can show up and get a replacement. I renewed my passport that way for a last minute business trip- appointment at the Passport office at 8 AM, and managed to make a 5PM flight that same day. Usually they prefer to have 2-3 days between when you drop it off and pick it up. If you can't get to the office, you can pay a serious premium and have an expediting service do it for you. Either way, it CAN get done- just follow the instructions on the state department web site. Remember - you won't be eligible for an appointment until 14 days before travel.
Andrea Sachs: Thanks for the encouraging words. I am hoping they are leaving May 4, not April 4.
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Detroit, Mich.: Hello, Crew. My wife and I are fresh off a week in Paris, and while the city was wonderful, 8 hours in the two middle airplane seats was not. That said, we're already looking for ideas for next year's vacation. We'd like something closer to home, more relaxing (think beaches), and warmer than Paris in March. We've pondering Sanibel and/or Naples, or the Carolinas (we've never been to either). What say you?
KC Summers: To guarantee warmth, how about the Caribbean? Or, if you want something more adventurous than just a beach, how about a coastal Central American country like Belize, with amazing Mayan ruins and jungles and snorkeling, or Honduras, with world-class diving? Or Costa Rica, a great eco destination?
If you do want to stay in the U.S., Savannah or Charleston should be beautiful that time of year.
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Williamsburg, VA: RE: Easter in Cologne -- used to live in Cologne for a couple of months; wasn't there for Easter, but I agree it should be beautiful. If I remember correctly, Germany also celebrates Easter Monday, so "Easter in Cologne" may want to keep in mind that a lot of the stores may be closed on Monday as well.
Gary Lee: Good thought, thanks.
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For Cologn & Travel Giftee: A few years back, I made reservations for Amsterdam w/o checking the calendar. I was there over Easter weekend. Other than museums and some restaurants, EVERYTHING was closed for four days (Fri, Sat, Sun, and Mon). You may want to consider that when packing, etc. (I usually figure that I can pick up meds, personal hygiene items, etc. over there. I learned that that isn't always the case!) And for the person getting the gift of travel, there's that place in WV with the hot springs, I took my mother there last year, and we both enjoyed it. Pretty low key, but an easy trip. You can either stay at the state park - ?Cactoctin? - or the hotel there that's the "big" hotel in town. Sorry, but my mind's drawing a blank on names today!
Anne McDonough: Good thing to think about (and something to keep in mind the next time you're planning a trip). As for West Virginia, Coolfont Resort is currently closed for renovations but there are other options in Berkeley Springs; the town's site has some ideas (www.berkeleysprings.com).
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Alexandria, Va.: My husband and I went to a Passport Acceptance Office 5 weeks prior to our upcoming trip to the Bahamas. The officer would not accept the "expedited" applications because she said she could not guarantee we would receive them in 5 weeks. She said to call the Passport Agency 800 number 2 weeks prior to departure to set up an appointment to get our passports. She also advised that many people had reported being unable to get through to that number. (I tried twice, during regular hours. Eventually, made it to "Goodbye" and a hang up. Maybe it's easier at 10:00 pm?) I emailed the agency, asking my questions (will I get an appointment? If not, will I walk out with passports on April 16?). There was a "warning" it would take 24-48 hours to get back. That was over a week ago. Still no response. The passport officer said if we fail to get an appointment, to show up no more than 72 hours at the agency for "emergency" passport service.
Am I going to get a passport? Our trip is April 18.
Andrea Sachs: You can try and use a passport service that will do the legwork for you (though you pay extra). However, the passport center is for travelers departing within two weeks, so I'm not sure what that official was talking about. Try again! It should be the center on 19th Street.
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Four Seasons: Stayed at the Four Seasons on Maui last summer and it was one of the best hotel experiences of my life. They cater to people in every way and I was surprised at how many people on the property were there to help, but not in an overbearing way. From suntan lotion at the pool to cold Gatorade in the workout room, every detail was perfect. Go and enjoy
Andrea Sachs: thanks!
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Gary Lee: Hey, fellow travelers, thanks for your participation in the chat. Thanks also for your tips on how to deal with rude or problematic travelers. Lots of good responses there. I like the story by the traveler who was faced with loud soldiers on the train. Nice way of dealing with a tough one! E-mail me at leeg@washpost.com, send your mailing address and I will make sure you get the prize.
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