The Post's Flight Crew: (from left to right) John Deiner, Carol Sottili, Steve Hendrix, Anne McDonough, Gary Lee, K.C. Summers, Cindy Loose, Andrea Sachs.

The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of ... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.

Joining the Flight Crew this week is Nicole Cotroneo, author of this week's story on renting a villa in Praiano, Italy

We know you have a choice in online travel forums, and speaking for the entire Flight Crew, we want to thank you for flying with us.

You may also browse an archive of previous live travel discussions. For daily dispatches, check out Travel Log, the Travel section's new blog.

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Anne McDonough: I hope none of you had vacation plans derailed by the weather this past weekend...and right now. We have KC Summers, John Deiner, Scott Vogel, Cindy Loose, Carol Sottili and moi (Anne McDonough) at the ready to field your travel questions and call upon you to fill in with your own experiences. And to guide you in planning your next Italian travels joining us online is Nicole Cotroneo, author of yesterday's piece on renting a villa in the lovely little hilly town of Praiano, on the Amalfi Coast. So, since it feels like winter today there's nothing I want to think about more than summer vacation: Where are you off to, and how did you choose the destination? There's a choice item from the box of junk in it for the poster the most intriguing plans.

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Madeira, again.: Hi Crew. I posted last week about Madeira, but too late for any chatters to chime in. We're wondering if it might be a fun place for three 30somethings to vacation, if we want a trifecta of beach, nature and a bit of old-school culture. Thing is, from what I have read this week about Madeira, it seems somewhat of a ... how do I put this ... elderly mecca?

What about Lisbon and some nearby beaches? Can you offer an idea for a place to sit by the beach not superfar from Lisbon that won't be too too swarmed and cheesy?

Anne McDonough: We, sadly, are Mederira-deficient. This is where the chatsters come in: Anyone out there want to help these folks out?

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Oakton, Va: Thought I would share my experince booking award travel with United over the weekend. I needed four upgrade seats from Dulles to Bangkok in November over the Thanksgiving Holidays. I was prepared with multiple options, but to my surprise both days I wanted had 4 upgrade seats available.

Now for my question: is it better to buy tickets for travel between Bangkok and Phuket ahead of time or should we wait until we get in country? If it makes any difference, we will be in Bangkok 4-5 days before we fly to Phuket.

Cindy Loose: Congrats on getting upgrade--and over a holiday! The airplane fairies are obviously watching out for you.

And I would defiantely buy my tickets now between Bangkok and Phuket. I just can't see any downside to doing it now, and no upside to waiting.

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Washington DC: What's the best way to hide money and passport while traveling aboard? I am thinking to buy money belt or neck pouch and put them inside my shirt or pants? Also, I have a slr camera, will that be a target? Thanks

John Deiner: Hey, DC. Lots of different ways to do that; we actually have a piece coming up in a few weeks in which we test a number of different devices. Lots of folks swear by the pouches you wear inside your shirt -- provided you wear them inside your shirt. Anyone have experience with these things? And yes, cameras, wallets, watches . . . anything with value can be a target.

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Summer in the jungle: I've got the itch for summer travel too. My husband and I are headed to the jungle in Belize for our first adventure trip. I have to admit, we're not roughing it too much since we're staying in nice lodges. But, we do plan to hike to many waterfalls, rapel, and go caving. I do fear the humidity and bugs a bit but I've heard the scenery is so beautiful it outweighs the discomfort.

Anne McDonough: Belize sounds like a lovely summer destination-humidity when you're in the jungle is much more seemly than humidity on the metro on the way to work.

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Brooklyn: Summer plans! I'm so excited to talk about these. My husband and I are going on an adventure to Southern Africa. The plan is to include Capetown and the wine country for culture, Mozambique for the beaches (and for Mozambican oysters, which I've had once on my life and have never forgotten--they were amaizng!), and then Zambia for wildlife, safari, and Victoria Falls. We're planning to do as much as we can independently, and to join up with a group for the safari portion of the trip. I can't wait!

Anne McDonough: Hey Brooklyn, That sounds fantastic! How much time have you set aside for the whole trip? And speaking out of ignorance here: What's special about Mozambican oysters? Tell us in...

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Silver Spring, MD: I was enjoying the article written by Christopher Coffman about his travel disaster, until I flipped the page and saw the photo of the author in Europe wearing a college baseball cap. Shouldn't "avoid conspicuous American apparel" be on your list of ways to reduce your chance of being pick-pocketed? (I am willing to give Mr. Coffman a pass since the cap was from my alma mater, Mary Washington College!)

John Deiner: Hey, Silver. Good point, there, although I'm sure many Americans (or, more generally, tourists) stick out like the proverbial sore thumb when they're overseas. But you're right: a college baseball cap just helps make you stand out even more.

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Washington, DC: I got caught in a terrible meltdown at Reagan National Airport last night. Arriving in from Phoenix, it took about 2 hours to get my suitcase. Apparently there was some kind of problem with the baggage management system, as there were passengers waiting from multiple flights for hours for their bags, with little information about what baggage area the bags would go to (my flight never made it to the display board, which wouldn't have mattered anyway, as the screen was adjusted so you couldn't read the baggage area numbers). The little info coming over the PA system was barely audible and often delivered at the same time as the canned "welcome to Reagan National" messages, so they were useless. How does this happen and why was the airport so ill-prepared to respond both in getting the problem solved and from a PR standpoint (i.e. letting us travelers know what's wrong and what to expect)?

KC Summers: Hi Wash. What a nightmare -- thanks for the heads up. We'll check into it for a possible item in our CoGo column. We've been hearing more and more baggage complaints lately, fyi, but they're usually focused on individual airlines. As I keep preaching, this is why I never check my bags. It's just not worth the lost hours and aggravation. There's an art to packing light -- I'll see if we can post a link to my recent piece on the subject -- but it's so worth it to be able to grab your bag from the overhead and bypass the luggage carousel. And no, I do not take up more than my allotted space, and it's a point of honor with me that I always hoist my own bag.

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Washington, DC: I love the chats! So here is my question. If you could take a week's vacation and go somewhere that included history, art, good sightseeing, food, etc. where would you go? I have been to Rome, Florence, London, Vegas, Boston, etc. already so I am looking for some new ideas. Thanks!

Cindy Loose: There are soooo many ideas I don't know where to start. First you've got the U.S.--My top recommendation would be San Francisco for what you want. Then there's all the cities of Canada--my top picks would be Quebec City, Vancouver, Toronto. Then you've got Paris and the other cities of Europe--and don't overlook Eastern Europe. Then the other continents too, but to make this simple let me be a dictator: Do Seattle and Vancouver, or San Francisco or Paris, or Toronto or Quebec City. There, I've narrowed it down a bit.

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S. Rockville, MD: Summer plans: Well, it will be late summer (mid-September), but the missus and I are planning to go to visit her aunt & uncle in Colorado where they are "gentlemen" ranchers. We'll be helping with the cattle round-up after the summer grazing season. Fresh air (a bit thin though!), little traffic, and real nice people. Sure we'll be working, but not stuck in offices.

Anne McDonough: A little outdoors time in a beautiful state: I'll take work like that any day (Though if I had to do it all the time, I'm sure I'd be begging for a day in the office).

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Washington, DC: Hi. Love your chats. Do any of you have any experience with confirmed standby for United at Dulles? We are thinking of trying it for a flight next month, but are not sure how it works. Thanks!

Cindy Loose: If I understand correctly the scenario you're considering: United will allow you to change a nonrefundable ticket if you want to fly standby the day of your flight, but you can't confirm anything until four hours before the flight, it has to be same day, and you pay a $25 fee. I tried to do that a couple of weeks ago and while they had lots of seats on the earlier flight I wanted the night before, by the time I was able to confirm a standby flight all the seats were gone.

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Just a compliment: Thanks so much for the wonderful article about renting a villa in Italy. The author of a previous piece you ran about renting an apartment in Italy came across as whiny and self-centered and didn't have much to say about Italy itself. In this week's piece, Ms. Contrero's appreciation and respect for the local culture and her enjoyment of the experience itself came through loud and clear. Warm, beautiful writing. Now I'm dying for a similar experience. Where do I sign up?!

KC Summers: Thanks for the comp. Just curious, what previous piece are you referring to? Do you remember the town, or anything specific about the piece? Just asking cause I can't remember a whiny Italian villa story. I do remember a whiny French one....

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Philadelphia, Pa: I'm off to Zion National Park in Utah, and to Red Rock Canyon Resort outside of Las Vegas. We're going to some hiking in Utah, then check into the Resort and do a little more hiking/kayaking/horseback riding, and lots of hanging by the pool with a drink in our hands. We've rented a convertible - and will drive to the Hoover Dam and of course to Vegas to see the sights - our first time there! Can't wait - your archives and this chat have really helped us plan our itinerary!

Anne McDonough: Bring the sunblock, especially with that convertible! John's here if you have any specific Vegas questions...

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Washington, DC: I'm thinking of taking a trip to Spain (Barcelona, Valencia, Seville) during the Christmas/New Years season. Is if realistic to expect mild (60 or so) weather during that time? If not, are there other European destinations that would be ideal during that time? Thank you.

John Deiner: Hey, DC. According to www.weather.com, the temperatures in Barcelona in late December average about 55, and 60 in Valencia. So it looks as if you'd be in pretty good shape.

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Vancouver, Wash: From last week's chat someone asked about a Carolina beach near an airport and easy for friends nearby to get together. The ideal choice would be Virginia Beach or Nags Head/Kitty Kawk. OBX is about 60 min from Norfolk and 3 hours from Raleigh and 4 from DC.

Also from last week. there was alot of chat about the outsourcing of reservations. I actually wrote a letter to USairways CEO on this. The bigger problem is a lack of training. Many times they just are not familiar with the hidden factors with traveling that someone trained statside knows. I wonder---how much extra as in a fee would consumers pay to have an american agent assist them over an outsourced agent.

There was the story a few weeks ago of a student coming back from europe who had to be removed because of uncontrolled coughing. This struck a nerve with me. I am a severe asthmatic. If I get removed from a plane because of an attack crosses the line of discromination. If this happens with me ever on a plane I will file a discrimination suit against the airline. Over my lifetime 9 times out of 10 I have had stranger assume with me that what I have was something contageous.

Cindy Loose: Thanks for the beach advise. I don't know how much United and US Airways saves by outsourcing customer service to other countries, but I'm sure they save a lot in wages. Of course you pay too little and your employees can't pay for your goods or services so, as Henry Ford could tell today's companies, paying people enough to afford what they're making and selling for you seems to be a good strategy.

I find it hard to imagine you'd get kicked off a flight for coughing that if you explained you have ashma, which I think everyone knows is not contagious. I'm torn about that case---I just don't know enough how sick this kid seemed, and I must say I don't like sitting near people who clearly have a flu or horrible cold.

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Washington, DC: Nicole's article was great - it made me want to book airfare to Italy after reading it. The sights, sounds, foods were very tempting.

I've never been to Italy, and I don't know very much about what city holds what attraction. So, I'm wondering if you need to have a basic grasp of the language/culture to make travel easier. For Nicole, is Italy a second home to you? How did you choose Praiano as the place to be?

Thanx.

Nicole Cotroneo: I certainly WISH Italy was my second home. In my heart I feel it is! As for speaking the language: When I arrived in Italy last year I had very little knowledge of the language. After two months I had learned enough to get by. My comprehension was better than my speaking because I know Spanish and the languages are similiar. That said, I would not let a language barrier deter you from visiting Italy. Many Italians speak a little English. Bringing a little Eng-It pocket dictionary helps. As for how I chose Praiano: I knew I wanted to stay on the Amalfi Coast. I did internet research and looked through books to determine which town would be least "touristy." Praiano was often described as a "quiet fishing village."

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VA to L.A.: Hi Crew!

I've been trying to find a flight from the DC or Richmond area (I live in Charlottesville but am mobile) to Los Angeles for June 22 that's less than half a month's rent. Most flights -- even the cheapest ones -- are in the high 300s/low 400s. Doesn't seem unreasonable, but last week things seemed to run up a little bit. Can I expect anything cheaper, or should I just bust out the credit card and get it over with?

Given my location, there are times when, after adding gas, parking and the 2+ hour trip to Dulles into the equation, it's actually worth the money to fly right from Charlottesville. Delta flies out of C-Ville as well, and since I have most of my miles on them it seems logical.

Is this just a rationalization on my part, or do you find yourselves working those concerns into the equation as well? I'm all for getting the best deal, but sometimes I admit paying a little more (even as much as an extra $100) for less hassle seems worth it.

Separately, I've noticed that really discount flights from this area to L.A. are far more scarce than from L.A. to the DC/Virginia area. After all the crowing about JetBlue's fares and sales, I've rarely found a flight whose times I could make work for less than $400. Or am I expecting miracles here?

Thanks, and love your posse!

Carol Sottili: I'm with you. It's not just about price. For example, I will pay up for nonstop flights (I seem to be snakebit when it comes to connections), and will also pay more for flights out of Reagan National because it's closer to my house than BWI, security lines tend to be shorter than those at Dulles, and I don't have to get in those Star War vehicles to get to my gate.

As for getting to Los Angeles, also consider where you're going and then consider the airport you are flying into. There is LAX, Long Beach (JetBlue's arrival spot), Burbank, Ontario and Orange County.

AS far as flying out of Charlottesville vs. Dulles, you'll pay about $100 more, which isn't a deal breaker. But you can fly nonstop out of Dulles on United. Lots to consider.

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Brooklyn Going to Southern Africa: We're planning on not-quite three weeks. It might be pushing it a bit, but I hope it will be worth it. And Mozambican oysters (at least the ones I ate) were HUGE and tasted, perfectly and ineffably, of the ocean--clean, imbued with salt, and with layers of flavor. Any tips on Southern African travel?

Anne McDonough: Have you checked the archives for the pieces we've run? A few by Gayle Keck come to mind; links should be coming up soon. It sounds like you're in for a big adventure!

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Portland, OR: I've just succeeded in getting approval for vacation September 15-30. We want to take most of that time in Paris, but I will be exhausted when I get on the plane, so we want to start somewhere wayyyy less exciting, for about three days of pure relaxation, including a lot of sleep. So--where should we go?

My criteria are: (a) somewhere not so culturally interesting that I will feel guilty sleeping, (b) somewhere we can practice our rusty French before assaulting the Parisians with it, (c) somewhere accessible by plane or train, ideally, rather than only by car (cf. lack of sleep!), and (d) somewhere I can count on finding a pretty darned good bed for less than about $200/night.

Ideas? Thank you!

Cindy Loose: Maybe readers will have more ideas, but I'm thinking you should check out the 20 destinations out of Paris that will be served by high speed trains as of June 10. These trains, going almost 200 miles an hour, can whisk you to all sorts of smaller French towns. Details: www.raileurope.com. The new high speed destinations are served by TGV.

Anyone else have more specific advice?

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Oakton, VA: we are headed on an Iberian cruise this summer out of Southhampton on Princess Cruise Lines. With stops in Bilboa and La Corfuna Spain, Bordeaux France, and Guernsey Isands, we get to mix fun with wine, sightseeing, fun, wine, romance, history, and wine.

For the person last week who was worried about changing money for the different stops on the cruise, we give any extra money we have over as our tips to the crew members. Chances are they will be in this port again, and they don't have to worry about changing the money you give them.

Anne McDonough: That's a great tip re: tipping.

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washingtonpost.com: Seeing South Africa, (July 11, 2004)

Anne McDonough: For the Brooklynites headed to southern Africa...tips for at least part of your trip!

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Flight Crew,

Thanks for the wonderful chat! My BF and I are going to the Bahamas in a couple of weeks. I have to say that though I've lived in DC for the past 5yrs. now (originally from the west coast), I am shocked! at how close the caribbean is and the fantastic airfare and package deals there are. Seriously going to the Bahamas is equivalent to us going to NYC for the weekend. Just wanted to share my enlightenment with everyone in case there are others out there who are in the dark.

Scott Vogel: You're right. Come to think of it, with nonstop flights from Washington to Nassau averaging 2 1/2 hours, Manhattan is an even more distant spit of land than Paradise Island (and that's assuming there isn't an accident on the New Jersey Turnpike, in which case you could even do a Bahamian roundtrip in a shorter amount of time.) And with those New York hotel prices ... anyway, your point is absolutely well-taken.

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Italy questions: Loved the piece on the Amalfi coast. My husband and I were in the Cinque Terre last year and loved it. We want to head back next year to see Rome and the Amalfi coast. Can you tell me the differences I can expect between the two? Can you hike between coastal villages like you can in the Cinque Terre?

Nicole Cotroneo: Yes, the Amalfi Coast is another great hiking destination. I have never done the Cinque Terre walk so I can't speak to the differences. But I know there are companies out there that do guided hikes of the Amalfi Coast. Often your hotel can arrange these.

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New York, NY: Some friends of mine and I were planning a trip at the end of August to Scotland/Great Britain for a mutual friend's wedding. We're trying to make plas and cost is becoming a deciding factor. Do you forsee a fare-sale for transatalantic flights in the near future? If so, when should we expect those fares to start dropping? Right now a Roundtrip to London is running at $900 or so and that just seems so high.

Cindy Loose: Hate to deliver bad news, but while I can never say there won't be a sudden sale, you're looking at very prime time summer fares, and $900 isn't out of line. Go to farewatcher.com and see both their compilation of average fares for the period you want to travel, and also their feature that predicts whether fares are going up or down. Fares will drop in the early fall, I'd bet, and I'd bet my house and kid they'll go down in Nov., but when you need to go prime time, you pay prime time prices.

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Ensenada, Baja California: Day Late & a $ Short in Baja; For Annapolis, MD,

We have cruised on Oceania for the last 5 years or so. Wonderful ships... Earlier this year, we had a bad experience on Holland America and upon returning to Baja(Home) we called our Travel Agent and signed up for an Oceania Cruise in September. Kind of my way of falling of a horse and getting back on again, except a different pony...

Keith R.

Anne McDonough: I think this was a followup from last week, where someone wondered about Oceania. Thanks for chiming in, Keith R.!

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Summer Plans DC: I'm off to Beijing! I have to go for work for a VERY short conference and thought I'd extend the trip by a week...I'm so excited! I'll be there by myself, but I speak Chinese and lived there for 3 months. I've already got a list of all the things I want to buy...

Anne McDonough: Jealous!! Will you be staying around Beijing, or heading out any further? Keep your eye out for an upcoming Beijing piece in our pages that might give you some ideas of how to spend your time...

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I don't get it...: Why did the kid think he was wearing a money belt to begin with, if not to hide his money and papers? I really don't understand the point of this "what not to do" article -- couldn't you just print "Don't Be Stupid" in big letters, maybe in CoGo, and be done with it?

John Deiner: Oh, please. Everyone makes mistakes (perhaps even you), and if you haven't traveled much or you're excited or you think you're safe or you have a momentary lapse of sanity, you're liable to make a massive one. (Simply pulling stuff out of a money belt and not shoving it back in where it belongs, failing to rezip a purse or keeping your wallet in an open pocket has, I imagine, happened to most of us.)

But the story was also about how he remedied his error, and about the people he'd met in a similar situation. Anyone who's lost their passport while on a trip, or their airline tickets either through theft or lost luggage or simply leaving something behind can appreciate the hardship of rectifying the situation.

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(Wish I were in) Italy: Hi, Crew. I really enjoyed the article about the Amalfi coast. Friends of ours have rented a villa in Tuscany for a week this summer, and we would like to join them, but flights from WAS to Rome have been hovering around $1400-$1500, unless one takes a tortuous route or overnight layovers. Any hope that they will come down at all? We need to go Late June- early July.

Cindy Loose: Summer fares are always way high to Europe, and I'm not betting any of my own money on them coming down. You won't find any monstrous bargains, but have you tried checking fares to other cities that connect to Rome by train?

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Positano: I loved the article today, but it got me a little worried - we're planning to spend part of our honeymoon in Positano in October. Now I'm concerned it will be too tourist-y! We just want to go to relax and see some beautiful scenery . . .

Nicole Cotroneo: Don't worry. You will find both relaxation and beautiful scenery in Positano. October is usually considered the end of the primary tourist season on the coast.

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Native New Jerseyan: So I'm off to Seattle on Friday. When I booked the flight (over the phone with the Indian call center) I was told there were nothing but middle seats at that point. How do I go about getting a window seat, or can I? Do they hold better seats for their more frequent fliers, or can I now get something so I won't be squished in the middle? Do I have a better shot calling this week or showing up really early when I check my bags? Many thanks, crew!

Carol Sottili: One of the reasons I prefer booking online is that the seat map pops up and you can see for yourself what is available. Some airlines will allow you to see seat availability even before you purchase. Have you tried going online to check you flight. Airlines often hold back the good seats on international flights, but that's not as common on domestic flights. There is a chance that middle seats were really all that were left when you booked. It never hurts to keep calling and to show up early, but if the flight is crowded, you may be out of luck.

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Arlington, VA: I recently completed an awful return flight on US Airways. I had a one-hour connection from from an international destination to Charlotte,NC. That one-hour leeway was hacked down into -5 minutes due to US Airway's plane arriving late and delays into giving folks their baggage. I'm not a regular air traveler, and wanted to know if this is normal? Was I naive to book a flight with a one-hour connection? From my standpoint, I find it a bitter pill to accept this as commonplace.

Cindy Loose: I'd avoid booking a flight with a one-hour connection if that included customs. Sorry you ran into a jam, but assuming that was your first stop in the U.S. and you had to come through customs and immigration, then I would have advised leaving more than an hour, had you asked before booking the trip.

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conspicuous?: I doubt the baseball cap made a difference--now can we make fun of him for wearing his moneybelt like a fannypack?

For the poster worrying about safety, there is also a leg version of the moneybelt, so try them all to see which one is most comfortable. The problem with the neck one is that the strap sticks out of most collars, but I guess it's most unlikely that someone will lift up your short to rob you. And thank goodness there's some places you don't have to wear them.

John Deiner: Good stuff, and thanks for the info. Definitely pays to try out the devices before you buy.

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Reston, VA: I loved the article on Praiano! My fiance and I are heading to the Amalfi Coast for our honeymoon in June. Any advice on day trips (we're staying in Amalfi) or great restaurants? Also, this may sound weird, but I'm a huge fan of lemon everything-- do you have any advice on "lemon-centric" activities to take part in? Favorite lemon grove? Great lemon spa treatment? Thanks!

Nicole Cotroneo: Amalfi is the PERFECT place for a lemonaholic. Make sure to buy some lemon ice (sometimes called lemon granita) while you're there. You'll see shops and carts selling the stuff in the main shopping areas. Also, gift shops sell everything from lemon soap to limoncello in towns all along the coast.

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North Bethesda, MD: The article on travel pouches yesterday was great. My only comment is for folks to think about that day they are crossing a border. I always use a small purse strung across my body. I keep my passport in that purse that day, along with the daily ration of money--all the rest of my money and credits cards stay hidden in my money pouch under my clothes! As soon as I've passed ALL passport checkpoints, I go to a private stall in the bathroom and put my passport in the hidden pouch. Never, never, NEVER show your pouch! And keep a photocopy of your passport pic page in your pouch. If your passport gets nicked, replacement will be easier.

John Deiner: Thanks, Beth. I'm sure Chris won't make the same mistake again, and the info you passed on is terrific.

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Burke, Va: If you could only visit Moscow or St. Petersburg during a visit to Russia, which would you chose? I am planning a trip to Russia and Kazakhstan this summer with Kazakhstan being the main draw thus we may only have time for one Russian city or the other.

Cindy Loose: We've voted and all agree St. Petersburg is the one we'd pick. Anyone disagree?

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Nile time!: I'm starting off summer with a trip to Egypt! A few days in Cairo, Nile Cruise with a side trip to Abu Simbel and finally, a few says on the Red Sea. I know it's hot in Egypt, but hey, it (hopefully) will be hot here too!

And I picked it because I've always wanted to go...and as I turned 30 this year, I booked it!

Anne McDonough: That sounds like a marvelous birthday present!

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Rockville, Md: My Summer Vacation...last year, at the age of 76 my mother discovered Europe! So this summer we are taking a 2 week river boat cruise from Paris to Nice. Then she'll fly home and I'll backpack down the coast to Spain for two weeks. The open road beckons....

Anne McDonough: I like that sort of spirit--your mom sounds fun!

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Brooklyn: Hi Travel Gurus! Nicole's beautiful article about Italian villas got me thinking. I am hoping to organize a family getaway (for eight adults!) over Christmas, either this year or next. We'd like to go to Italy--while I've been, lots of people never have. Do you know if villa rentals, or other similar accomodations, are available for groups of this size? I know I could do it in the Tuscan countryside, but I'm hoping for either Florence or Rome. Any tips for finding such a place?

Nicole Cotroneo: I'm glad you enjoyed the piece. Villas are an excellent option for large groups. When I was "shopping" for a villa I saw some spectacular ones with enough bedrooms for 10+ people. They were too expensive for what I was looking for but if you could split it between everyone in the group it would be a very affordable option. Check out some of the websites I recommend in the sidebar. I used villeinitalia.com and they also have locations in Rome. I believe Florence too.

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Anonymous: I think I asked this once before, but probably too close to the end of the chat to make it in. 2 couples: one adventurous (us), one vacationally lazy with a tiny budget (them), looking for an all-inclusive resort someplace warm with a reasonable amount of historical/cultural exploration nearby. Caribbean and Mexico are out -- BTDT too many times. Sandals is out -- seen several of their resorts in various locations, not impressed. Continental US is out -- that's what we do for long weekends, not week+long vacations. Suggestions for other locations to investigate?

Cindy Loose: I'm thinking elsewhere in Central America, like Honduras? I guess part of the issue is: how tiny is there budget? And given you'r adverturous and they are "vacationally lazy," are you sure you have a good enough reason to travel together?

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Falls Church, Va: Our family (parents and two 6 graders) is going to LA and San Francisco this summer. I am looking for a hotel in both cities and I am having trouble in part because they are both so big (especially LA) I am having a hard time figuring out what part of town I should try to be in. We are not looking for the Ritz but want and are willing to pay for a nice place.

Any suggestions of neighborhoods or specific hotels would be welcome. Thanks so much.

Anne McDonough: Where should these first-timers stay? You be the judge. If you don't have a specific hotel to reccommend, how about a neighborhood for starters?

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Vienna, VA: Does anyone have a recommendation for a great restaurant in Istanbul. Price is no object.

Carol Sottili: Bon Appetit's May issue is about travel for foodies, and there's a nice article about Istanbul. It recommends Tugra as "one of the country's great restaurants." Located in the Ciragan Palace Kempinski.

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Springfield, Va: This question is for Nicole - I loved your article and was wondering if there were other spots within the country that you would recommend for a similar stay (local, not touristy, etc.)? Thanks!

Nicole Cotroneo: Glad you liked the story. I've spent most of my time in the southern regions. Top of my list to go back and check out is Scilla, a lovely little town on the "Violet Coast" just north of the Strait of Messina in Calabria. Historically this was a fishing village and wooden swordfishing boats still launch from here (crews fish with harpoon). The town is divided into three sections: One part is perched on a cliff (including a castle and cathedral), the lower part is situated along a ribbon of rocky beach (here you'll find excellent seafood restaurants) and the most romantic part is called Chianalea, where the homes are built right at the water's edge and the stone streets are so narrow you can only navigate them on foot. I know there is at least one small hotel in Chianalea, but I imagine there are apartments and "villas" for rent as well.

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Alexandria,Va: I'm an asthmatic and I sure as heck wouldn't want to sit anywhere near me if I was having a coughing fit! Besides if you are having an asthma attack what happens if your airway gets totally blocked at 35,000 feet? I can't blame an airline to hesitate to take on someone with an active attack. The girl is possibly another story. Just try to imagine yourself sitting near that.

Cindy Loose: I don't want to get in the middle of a fight between two asthmatics cause I don't know enough about it to have an opinion, but here's an alterantive opinion to the ahthmatic who would sue the airline is she get's denied boarding.

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Bethesda, MD: What are interesting things (for adults) to do in the Dakotas -

both north and south - other than the obvious Black Hills,

Mount Rushmore, Badlands, etc.? Thanks.

KC Summers: Hi Beth. You've just asked about my favorite state -- well, South Dakota, anyway; never been to N.D. Don't be too dismissive of the obvious stuff -- the Badlands are one of the most other-worldly places I've ever been and the Black Hills are amazing and beautiful. Mount Rushmore, Crazy Horse and Deadwood, eh. Of the more unsung places, I loved Custer State Park (jeep rides, buffalo herds, gorgeous scenery), the town of Keystone (panning for gold), Wall (kitschy drugstore) and Mitchell (a building made of corn. Yes, corn).

But my absolute favorite place in S.D. is the little town of DeSmet: It's the setting for Laura Ingalls Wilder's "Little House" books. If you or your children love those books, it's just incredibly moving to see the houses the Ingallses lived in, and to able to walk in their footsteps. (Obligatory disclaimer, I'm not talking about the icky TV show of the same name, but the books.)

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Washington, D.C.: On my flight from Dulles to O'Hare last week, I was joined by about 25 students and 5 chaperones from a local high school choir group. I got on the plane relatively quickly and settled into my seat. As the students came aboard, they simply settled into seats wherever they pleased, assuming a certain section of the plane was reserved just for them. This didn't pose a problem until a gentleman came to claim his seat and a student was in it. She informed him that her friend was in her seat so she couldn't sit there. That friend in turn wouldn't move because someone else was in her seat etc... You get the picture. Finally the man (who was a lot nicer than I would have been), agreed to sit elsewhere. What appalled me was the parent chaperones who did nothing to help the situation and the complete lack of help from the flight attendants. Obviously I know they are kids, and sometimes that's how kids are, but parents, please, teach your kids some respect and some etiquette when flying. They need to realize they aren't the only ones on the plane and they still need to abide by the rules.

Carol Sottili: Did the guy ask the flight attendant to help out and he/she didn't help? Did the parents see what was going on and look the other way? Or was it a pleasant exchange between the guy and the kids and they figured it out themselves?

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For KC: whiny Italian story: I whined about it on the chat at the time, actually, and you were kind enough to say you would take it under advisement. I think you had received other comments along the same lines. Haven't been able to find it in a hurry, but it was a feature in which the author had rented an apartment (definitely in Italy) and complained about her noisy neighbors, the weather, her small kitchen, lack of AC, etc. I think it was intended to be a bit thinky but just came off as a self-centered-American-abroad rant -- the author didn't seem much interested in Italians, or Italy, or anything but her own dissatisfaction.

Anyway, it was quite a while ago now and probably only got up my nose because it was so at odds with the caliber of writing you usually publish. Keep up the great work!

KC Summers: Gosh, now I'm going to have to go back through the archives. You've really got me -- I just can't remember what this might have been. We definitely ran a whiny Anyway, don't worry about whining, we really do value the feedback, and it helps us in our story-planning.

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Re: Amalfi: Could you please put up a link to the story? Thanks!

washingtonpost.com: Hey, Neighbor, (April 15, 2007)

KC Summers: Here's a link to Nicole's Amalfi story, for anyone who didn't se it.

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15th and L, Washington, DC: We will be driving up the California coast next week. No real itinerary, just taking it where the road leads (as long as we end up in Oakland on Saturday to catch a flight home!).

Question for you is this: What is the best way to handle hotels? We were planning on using Hotwire or Priceline every day to see if we can score a great one-night deal wherever we will be ending up that day.

Is this an advisable method? We don't want to be shelling out big bucks either. The hope and the dream is that we can be both spontaneous as well as save money with hotels that have rooms they need to fill. Is this a very foolishly idealistic plan?

Cindy Loose: Oh, I hate to say okay because if you get stuck you are going to really, really hate me forever. However, while I wouldn't consider doing this in summer, it's what I would consider doing if I were in your shoes and traveling in the Spring. Also, I would drive straight up highway one, between Morro Bay and Monterrey. Keep in mind that there aren't a lot of lodging options at these two ends---there are lots in Morro Bay and particularly in Monterrey. However, there are some small cabins and stuff that you won't find on a place like Priceline.

Be sure to stop for a drink at Nepenthe, a really beautiful spot.

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For Madeira, again: How about the Canary Islands, or a few spots in the Azores (e.g., Santa Maria Island)? Is night life important to you?

Anne McDonough: Coming up should be a link to John's Azores piece from a few weeks ago; hope the Madeira folks are still online!

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Jon, Jon...: I wasn't suggesting I've never made a mistake, and it's really a shame you took it that way. I felt sorry for the guy, and of course I identified with his predicament. It just seemed like an awful lot of real estate to take up based on a pretty elementary error. I thought you had these chats because you wanted reactions -- my apologies for the mistake.

John Deiner: No problem...we definitely want reactions, and then sometimes we even react to the reactions. Or overreact. So everyone, keep reacting! React as if you've never reacted before!

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washingtonpost.com: She Lugs It, she Lugs It Not, (Nov. 5, 2006)

KC Summers: Here's an exhortatory essay on packing light, for the person stuck at the baggage carousel. Thanks Kim.

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washingtonpost.com: A Man for Off-Season, (March 18, 2007)

Anne McDonough: Another option for the Madeira folks. Thanks for the post, Kim!

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Vienna, VA: Summer vacation plans: I am going to Las Vegas with my three dear friends. We're all turning 40 in 2007 so have been planning this getaway for a few years. No husbands and no kids. We live in four different areas so we don't get together as often as we'd like. The long weekend together definitely takes the sting out of the big four-oh.

Anne McDonough: Hey, if you turn 40 IN Vegas does that mean it doesn't happen in the rest of the world?

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Arlington VA: Cindy, I read in your blog that airlines are thinking having passengers sitting forwards and backwards in order to pack more people. If this really happen, I think we will have to pay more money to sit forwards, which is another way for airlines to make more money.

Cindy Loose: Actually they might want to charge extra for facing the back of the plane, since it's apparently a wee bit safer. Sure when you take off you might be thrust forward in the seats facing the back, but think how smooth it will be to land and find yourself being pushed back into your seat.

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Summer vacation: We're going to Emerald Isle this summer. And when I say "we", I mean 40+ family members spanning four generations. We rent the biggest house(s) we can find in an area with outdoor diversions every year. We've done the lakes of upstate NY, the Smoky Mountains, and several locations in coastal Carolina (Outer Banks and such).

I'd love some ideas for future family beach weeks. The criteria are: fun stuff to do (water, hiking, historical sites, shopping...), kid friendly, large rental properties available, and equally accessible to people driving from PA, NJ, OH.

Anne McDonough: This sounds like a project for the Outer Banks, I'd say! I love that your family does this--I'm sure the planning of it can be a headache but you'll never regret having that time all together.

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Santa Barbara CA: Where to stay while in LA? Lots of hotels by Universal studios, which is a good starting point for sight seeing, or Santa Monica to be a little closer to the water.

Anne McDonough: You hear that, Falls Church?

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Waldorf, MD: Good afternoon, crew. You've probably been asked this a hundred times and I've just missed it, but I'll try anyway: Why do airlines board passengers starting from the front? Wouldn't it be faster to start with the back rows, so people aren't stopped in the aisles as much?

(Am flying to Miami on Wednesday for a conference, so will have yet another chance to repress my irritation.)

Thanks. (As always, you guys do a great job.)

John Deiner: Hey, Waldorf. No, that's a good question, and we're always left puzzled by it as well. Airlines have different ways of boarding (Southwest's stampede is one of the worst ways). I believe one airline is starting to experiment with boarding by the inside out -- meaning window seats are filled first, then middle seats, then aisle. But the last time I flew United (I think it was United, at least), we boarded in large groups according to letter (A, B, C, etc) and just scurried willy-nilly to wherever our exact seat was located. It was a mess.

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Fairfax, Va.: Happy Monday -- was in Toronto for the weekend and just got back -- was a little confused about the Canadian visitors tax rebate program -- I was told tourists no longer can get a tax rebate as of a few weeks ago, yet my hotel room had a tax rebate form and envelope to mail in my receipts, and I saw a dropbox for the form at Pearson Airport this morning.

Would you know what the the status of the tax rebates are? Thanks for clarifying.

Carol Sottili: Go to this link for info:

www.cra-arc.gc.ca/tax/nonresidents/visitors/qa-e.html

Basically, the government has eliminated the GST/HST Visitor Rebate Program and introduced the Foreign Convention and Tour Incentive Program. It changed effective March 31. Rebates are still allowed on short-term accommodation portion of tour packages for non-resident individuals and tour operators, but not for goods purchased in Canada.

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Munich, Germany: The "Misworn Money Belt" story was a bit harrowing, but I was surprised that Munich got the vote for the best-tasting public water in Europe.

Some of the southern European countries like Spain and Italy wouldn't have been in the running, I suppose, but I would've thought that Swiss Mountain Water would have topped the list.

John Deiner: Hey, Munich. Now that's a different take on the piece, and a great one. Anyone else have a candidate for Europe's best-tasting water?

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Villa in...Spain?: Husband and I loved Nicole Contrero's article on her experience on the Amalfi coast. We're headed for the northern coast of Spain in June and wonder if any of you have experience renting vacation property in a similar vein there. Any suggestions on where to turn when you're looking to do this somewhere you've never been? (We both speak Spanish, if that helps.)

Nicole Cotroneo: I've been to Spain but I haven't rented a villa there. I'm sure you can begin your research as I did with Italy: a search engine query "renting a villa in Spain." When you check out the rental agencies don't be shy about emailing and calling them. The more questions you ask the better. Ask them for references. Quality agencies will let you speak with clients who have rented the property you're interested in.

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For Mr. Deiner -- friends?: Just wanted to say I love your writing, even when you're snarking at me for snarking at that poor innocent young man. I'll keep reacting, particularly now that I have your blessing!

(reactreactreact -- see, I've started already.)

John Deiner: Let's do lunch!!!

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Anonymous: Hi. I'm an art history student and a travel addict. I had big plans to spend this summer on a dig in Rome, but I was not accepted to the program. Meanwhile, I'm taking a year off before applying to grad school. I would really like to live abroad for awhile, and was wondering if you guys had any suggestions. I've considered the JET program for teaching English in Japan, and I was hoping that you guys or the chatters might have some ideas for me.

Thank you!

Cindy Loose: There are all sorts of teaching English gigs out there, although if someone out there can recommend a service besides JET that arranges them please tell.

Additionally, have you considered looking for entry level jobs in the tourism industry? If you speak a foreign language that would be helpful. Think about the skills you have besides speaking English and maybe another idea will pop in your head. Like I always thought it would be fun to work at a ski resort, and lots of resorts these days find workers in places like Jamaica,and surely you know more about snow things than the average Jamaican, right?

Anyone have more specific ideas about matching yourself to an overseas job?

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KC Summers Packing Method: I'm a proponent for packing light as well, just to avoid the nightmare of checking your luggage. But, I have not been able to address this issue. When traveling to foreign destinations where souvenirs are a must have, how do you pack souvenirs without checking anything in? If you've got tips, KC, please dish!

KC Summers: My best tip is to travel with a boyfriend who also packs light and will let you use his suitcase for your souvenirs on the way home! But failing that, I do two things: Pack light enough that I have extra space on the way over, then cram the thing full on the way back; and ditch all the magazines, newspapers and books I took over, to clear up space for trip back. And of course I start out by packing really light in the first place -- one all-purpose pair of shoes, versatile black pants that you can dress up or down, etc etc. There are other tips in the above link.

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Fargo, ND: For the person asking about the Dakotas. The badlands in western ND are very different than those in SD. Theodore Roosevelt National Park at Medora is a marvelous way to spend some time with an outstanding golf course called "Bully Pulpit" that has gotten some great national reviews. Elsewhere in the state there are many alternatives, depending on what you want to do and how much time you have.

KC Summers: Hey Fargo. We'll have to take a look at N.D. sometime. Thanks for the tips.

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Washington DC: Resting up before hitting Paris:

I'd recommend the Loire Valley. Some of the villages outside of Tours are lovely. The people are warm and friendly, the scenery is gorgeous, the driving is easy, and the sites, while nice, don't command the attention of Notre Dame. That is, Chenonceaux is nice, but it takes an hour. And once you've seen one troglodyte cave, you've pretty much seen 'em all. I'd be totally content sleeping in, hitting a village market, seeing one winery, then going back to my rental cottage for a nap and a home-cooked dinner with my market finds.

And, when you're all rejeuvenated and ready to head into the metropolis, it takes an hour on the TGV from Tours.

Cindy Loose: Sounds good to me; thanks.

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Travel tips for Egypt: Your tips for the young woman traveling in Egypt were good, but you left out one important one: I would strongly advise wearing a headscarf in public, particularly if your hair is lighter than dark brown. This has the practical benefit of keeping the dust and pollution out of your hair (really helpful even in Cairo) but more importantly will help you blend in with the crowd and keep you from attracting a great deal of unwanted attention.

I ignored this advice the first time I went and was hassled constantly by street vendors, beggars, and would-be gropers, even though I was otherwise conservatively dressed. The second time, a loosely-tied scarf allowed me to walk unnoticed a lot of the time, which made the trip much less stressful. (And with all the noise and bustle of Cairo, anything that makes it less stressful is a real plus!) Many of the Egyptians I spoke with reacted very warmly and favorably to an American showing respect for their customs in this way and making an effort to fit in. It opened doors in much the same way as learning a few polite words and phrases in the local language and enabled me to make personal connections, particularly with women, that I'm sure I wouldn't have made otherwise.

Anne McDonough: Thanks for the ideas; this is a followup to yesterday's Travel Q&A.

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Another Egypt tip: If you're a woman, wear a headscarf in public. Seriously. I've done this twice now on the advice of Egypt-experienced friends, and it's made a big difference in how I'm treated, especially in crowds. You need one to enter a mosque anyway, and practically speaking it keeps the sun off your head and the dirt out of your hair.

Anne McDonough: And another one chimes in--thanks!

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Traveling Europe: Submitting early, as I have a meeting, but I'm looking for a couple of good websites that I could use to try and book a rental house/villa/apartment in Eurpoe in the future. Do you have any favorite sites or recommendations as to what to use when looking for a place to stay? I'm looking particularly in England, France and Italy (I'm sure they're relatively popular!)

Also, would you have any recommendations as where to stay off the beaten track, any suggestions are more than welcome! I'm not picky when it comes to traveling, but would like to try something different. Thanks!

Anne McDonough: Coming up should be a link to a story we did that lists just the resources you need...

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washingtonpost.com: Flat Sweet Flat, (Oct. 16, 2005)

Anne McDonough: For the Europe-bound. Thanks, Kim!

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5 day baggage delay: What's the best process and points/arguments to get maximum compensation from an airline for long-delayed baggage on a vacation. Late last month, my bag (but not my wife or daughter's) bag was lost on a direct (i.e. not connecting) flight from San Juan, PR to Martinique, and didn't arrive until 5 days later. According to the American Airlines computer records, the bag went to the Dominican Republic but returned to San Juan that (Friday) night, and just sat there until Wednesday -- which, probably not coincidentally, was the last day before the case got referred to central baggage services (a black mark on the San Juan baggage performance standards, no doubt).

Anyway, I spent several hundred dollars in replacement clothes, toiletries, etc. -- almost all documented with detailed receipts -- and spent hours both in shopping and in sitting on hold with American's baggage claims people. I would certainly ask at a minimum for compensation for the receipted items (which I really didn't need, as they exactly duplicated what I had in the delayed bag), but what about all those precious vacation hours wasted on replacement items shopping and phone calls? What I'd really like is 3 round trip tickets, or frequent flier mileage, to visit our older daughter in LA. What's the most promising route to get that?

(FYI, the most remarkable aspect of this experience is that no one seemed to have any power to do anything. The Martinique baggage people were very friendly but could only send emails to San Juan, and the American Airline supervisors could only do the same thing -- and San Juan never answered anyone's emails or returned their phone calls. Heck of a way to run a business.)

Cindy Loose: The chances of getting three free ticket cause you're baggage was delayed for five days: About the same odds as for getting one free ticket, which would be somewhere between zero and zero.one.

When bags are lost, compensation is outlined by law. As to misplaced, you'll find your airline's policy at its contract of carriage---its worth looking for it online before you begin the fight for compensation cause it will give you a guide to what's normal. Generally, what you can expect is reimbursement for some items they would consider essentials, and what they consider essential is probably less that what you consider essential. That's the battle your facing---anything beyond that isn't on the table.

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re: money belt, pouches, etc: I have traveled to China, Turkey, Kenya, West Africa, Peru, Bolivia, and the UK. We always put our passports and money in pouches around our necks and never had a problem. It might be a little uncomfortable, but it is worth it! Pickpockets are really good - one fellow tourist had her camera stolen from her skirt pocket and a pickpocket tried to rob my dad by grabbing on to his ankle, thinking when he bent over that he, the pickpocket, would steal his wallet. That's why we wear neck pouches!

John Deiner: EXCELLENT stuff. That's a creepy scenario regarding your dad and his ankle, and a good thing to beware of. Thanks for chiming in.

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Rockville, MD: Just got back from 9 days in London with my wife and 15-year old son. Once we forgot that 1 pound = 2 dollars, we had a blast. A few tips:

1. Great modern hotel in Fulham, the Jurys Inn Chelsea, big room for three for 89 pounds, 10-15 minute walk to the Fulham Broadway tube station.

2. You MUST get a travelcard for the tube and buses. Our 7 day travelcards cost $44 each--round trip fare from Fulham to the center city is 7 pounds, or $14. Easily save us hundreds of dollars. You can order it online and have it sent to you here in the states.

3. If you have any interest in it, go to a football match (what we Yanks call soccer). Join a American supporters club, such as Arsenal America, and you can get tickets for otherwise sold-out matches at face value, usually about 60 pounds. Also lots of lower league teams in London, such as Leyton Orient, have easier to get and cheaper tickets.

4. Great web site for discount theater tickets is www.broadwaybox.com. We got great seats half-price for The 39 Steps and Blood Brothers. Site also works for New York.

Once the exchange rate gets better, we're headed back!

Carol Sottili: Good tips. Also, look into Oystercard depending on how long you'll be there. Another cheap and good hotel is Premier Travel Inn just two blocks from Tower Bridge: about 75 pounds a night weekends, 85 pounds during week. Also, I'll try to send a link to Anne McDonough's London story before we run out of time.

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washingtonpost.com: London Hotel Options, From Budget to Deluxe, (April 7, 2007)

Carol Sottili: And just like that, here is Anne's story.

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KC Summers: Whiny Italian villa story: We finally found it! It was from 2002 and yes, the writer did have some problems adjusting, and no, she probably wasn't the most flexible traveler in the universe. I think, in retrospect, that in our constant effort to provide real-world, non-gushy, non-travel-brochurey stories, we probably went a little bit overboard. Lesson learned.

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Back to the drawing board...: We planned our honeymoon around a family wedding we have to attend in late August in the northeast of England. We were going to fly from Liverpool to Tampere, Finland on a super cheap Ryanair flight, and then spend 6 days in Finland, 3 days in Estonia and 3 days in Latvia. But as of May the route to Tampere will be discontinued and we can't find a reasonable alternative to get to Finland. Ryanair has offered us a refund or a rescheduled flight out of Stanstead (not at all convenient). So now we don't know what to do or where to go! We wanted to avoid the August crowds by going north. Any suggestions for a 12 day trip that doesn't break the bank that we can get to from Liverpool or Manchester? Our thoughts include Norway, Ireland, Portugal, and Croatia. But I really hate crowds and I'm scared anywhere we go will be crazy!

Cindy Loose: You've got many great alternatives. I'd do two things: first I'd check for cheap flights, and then I'd also check for trains from Liverpool. Then I'd also consider prices once I got there, since you mention you don't want to break the bank. Finland could have broken the bank, and Norway too.

How about checking flight and train options that aren't too expensive and get back to us once you've narrowed down the field a bit.

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Greenbrier Report: There was some discussion on this chat a couple of years ago about how the Greenbrier resort in West Virginia had quite inhospitably closed to non-registered guests, meaning a couple of respectable middle-aged women couldn't even have lunch there and do a little shopping. As one of those women who was turned away at the gate, I'm happy to report that the Greenbrier is now open to all. I visited there for Easter brunch and received a warm welcome, and the website states the new policy in a few places.

Now if I can just afford an overnight stay!

KC Summers: That is great news! I'm a big fan of the Greenbrier (like you, wish I could afford to go more often) and it's very welcome news that they've reversed their policy. We'll check it out for a possible mention in the section.

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Re: Istanbul restaurants: My husband and I went on our honeymoon to Istanbul in May 2006. We recommend:

Cigdem Pastanesi for incredible pastries (esp. the pistaschio baklava and anything fig)

Karadeniz Aile Pide Ve Kepap Salonu, near the Blue Mosque. In an alley (or tiny side street). V. good, v. cheap. Nice older man as an owner. The lamb with yogurt is outstanding.

Krependeki Imroz, in Beyoglu. Try eggplant anything

Hamdi et Lokaanti - ask for a reservation on the roof and enjoy the view. And don't skip dessert.

Carol Sottili: Thanks much!

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Anne McDonough: Thanks, all for chiming in with your stories and expertise (looks like we need to get someone to Madeira!). As for the summer vacationers who garnered themselves a piece of junk from the box o'the same...if the the folks heading to be "gentlemen ranchers" would send along their mailing addresses to mcdonougha@washpost.com we'll get that stuff right out to you.

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