What's Cooking With Kim O'Donnel

Calling all foodies! Join us for another edition of What's Cooking, our live online culinary hour with Kim O'Donnel.

A graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education (formerly known as Peter Kump's New York Cooking School), Kim spends much of her time in front of the stove or with her nose in a cookbook.

For daily dispatches from Kim's kitchen, check out her blog, A Mighty Appetite. You may catch up on previous transcripts with the What's Cooking archive page.

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Kim O'Donnel: I just heard local church bells ringing (so wonderful to have the windows open), so I guess it must be NOON and our time to gather round. Thanks for stopping by as you try to wipe the pollen layer off your cars and sinuses. Late April is proving to turn around in the weather department, and the goods are starting to show up at local farm markets. Check tomorrow's Food section for a farm market update as well as a list of what earthly vittles you can expect to find, in my blog space. This week is a double header for me, as I host my monthly veggie chat. Come on over and smell the radishes...And now, it's all about you. Please fill me in.

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Roseland NJ: Whta is your favorite way to prepare quinoa?

I have found on its own, as a dinner sidedish, it doesn't do it for me (or my wife -- she calls it "birdseed-a-roni"). But the leftovers, heated with butter and maple syrup, make a tasty breakfast. And it's an interesting substitute for rice in a homemade chicken broth -- the chewy/cruchy texture makes for a nice contrast.

Kim O'Donnel: Hey Roseland, I agree, quinoa needs accompaniment. You're on the right track, by the way. I think it makes a terrific cold salad -- olive oil, red onion, chickpeas, feta, cucumber, radish, herbs, lemon -- whatever you like. Let's ask the others for fave quinoa tips...

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Washington, D.C.: i think you printed a rhubarb recipe recently, could you share it? or do you recommend any good crisps etc to bake - no rolling pin so no pie crusts.

Kim O'Donnel: Have a look at the rhubarb fool I featured a few weeks ago in the blog. I love this dessert. I'm open to rhube cobbler, though...maybe with strawberries to add a little yin to the yang...

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Jerusalem, Israel: Submitting early because of the time difference ... I am looking for a recipe for an elegant, seasonal (spring) soup that does not require a blender/stick-blender, and does not include dairy or fish/seafood products. Any ideas?? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: If pureeing is out (and you don't have access to a hand-cranked food mill), why not a chickpea soup, with lots of lemon, garlic, white wine, herbs and barley, for body? Stock can be anything you wish -- veggie, chicken, or a combo of water and wine -- and you can use leeks instead of onions.

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Fairfax, Va.: Here's an off-the-wall question. I have a French Press. I use coarsely ground coffee (Trader Joe has a setting for the press), use a timer, etc., etc. Still get a lot of sludge. Is this due to something I'm doing wrong, or is it just what French Presses do? I even bought a gold filter to pour thru and still ...

Kim O'Donnel: Can you be more specific? As a long-time owner of French presses in various sizes, I know when the screen is dirty or needs to be replaced...something is loose or just really worn...and these variables ultimately impact the flavor and body of the brew. Now, are you getting grounds in your cup? Talk to me.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim. I asked for some suggestions for a Moroccan dinner a couple weeks ago, so I thought I'd tell you what the final menu was. We started with citrus-marinated olives, then had an eggplant/red pepper confit and a carrot salad served with a traditional Moroccan bread made with anise seed. Main course was lamb tagine served over cous cous with slivered almonds, chopped mint, and lemon zest. Dessert was a fig and date "b'steeya" followed by mint tea. It was awesome! And everything but the bread and dessert was made in advance. Gotta love that!

Kim O'Donnel: Wonderful stuff. Congratulations, dear. This is inspiring!

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Chevy Chase, D.C.: Hi Kim -- love your chats -- I always learn something new.

I hope you can help me with something. My mother is coming to dinner Sat. night and has requested that I make my potato gratin (so easy and delicious with creme fraiche and gruyere cheese). However, I would like to peel and slice the potatoes in advance. The problem is the potatoes start to turn grey-ish after being sliced if you don't get them int he oven right away. Is there a way to slice and peel the potatoes earlier in the day and do something to prevent them from turning an icky color? Thanks so much.

Kim O'Donnel: You can peel in advance and place in a container filled with water. cover and refrigerate. This will help maintain the integrity of the potato and minimizes color change. Drain thoroughly and pat dry before slicing.

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Alexandria, Va.: Hello and happy warm weather! I have a question about fresh eggs ... I joined a CSA for the summer and will be getting 6 eggs a week. I know that there are differences between eggs straight off the farm and ones that you get in the store, but I don't know what they are. Any special instructions I should know about? Will they last as long as regular eggs? Thanks for your help!

Kim O'Donnel: You're gonna love those eggs. You won't believe how much better they taste than what you get in the store. No special instructions necessary, except to enjoy and add salt. An egg from a CSA share means that those eggs were hand picked by a person in a small, well looked after chicken coop where hens roam freely. It means those eggs were picked and hand washed just a day or so before they arrive in your CSA box. It means that the hens are fed feed free of chemicals and growth hormones. It means good eating.

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French press: Hi -- yes, this sludge has occured since I bought the thing. I wash it every use ... When I pour off the coffee, the sludge goes right along. Not the grounds, just 'wet dust' from the ground beans.

Kim O'Donnel: Sounds like there is not a tight fit between screen and ground coffee. There should be a good degree of pressure as you plunge. You got a friend with a press to do an experiment, to see if another press works differently?

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Hill of Beans, Md: Hello, Kim, Last weekend I soaked and cooked some dried garbanzo beans that I planned to use in 3 different recipes. I thought they tasted odd (sort of like peanut shells) so I threw them all out. What I'm wondering is if maybe home-prepared beans should taste a lot different from canned beans and I made a mistake, or if these might have been stale, which is what I thought when I decided to throw them out. I can't remember when I bought them and the bag didn't say. Anyway, if they're dried, can they go stale?

Kim O'Donnel: Yes, dried beans can be stale and old and create snafus like these! I recently tried dried beans just about 1 year old, which is a huge age difference than the stuff you're likely to find in the supermarket bags. It's hard to get any empirical data, but guesstimates are 2-3 years and sometimes older, depending on how quick a store moves beans.

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Columbia, Md.: We have some radishes at home and I have no idea what to do with them. I put some in a bean and asparagus salad and they were pretty good, but I need some more ideas.

Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Radishes are wonderful dipped in salt and olive oil, as a snack. We had a bunch last week with mixed greens and a mustardy vinagrette. I love them with feta and herbs, too.

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Dinner tonight: Am planning to make a vegetable pizza. Pesto on the dough, topped with thinly sliced eggplant, zucchini, and tomato. Parmesan on top. Question -- do I need to bake the eggplant and zucchini first, or can I just put it on the pizza. I usually bake the pizza 10 minutes at 450 on a pizza pan, then another 8 minutes at 425 off the pan. I don't want the veggies too mushy. Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: At the very least, cook eggplant in advance before topping the dough. It needs more time and also a little extra flavor care to be a seamless addition to your final dish. The only veg I'll top raw in a pizza is arugula or spinach, something that takes very little time in that hot oven. Anything that requires at least five minutes on its own should be cooked in advance and added.

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San Francisco, Calif.: Re: Quinoa, if you prefer quinoa as a hot dish, I recently found that Trader Joe's has this quinoa pilaf that is quite good. It has a slight curry taste to it, and includes veggies and bay shrimp. The quinoa also has a softer texture because it's steamed during heating, no bird-seed texture here.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for chiming in, San Francisco, and good morning to you.

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Gratin maker: Why don't you reduce your stock and/or cream and spices(or whatever method you use). Butter you dish, place your sliced potatoes in the dish along with the cooled liquid and refrigrate?

I ofter use this method, I learned it from Thomas Keller.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks. Great tip.

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Menu Help: I'm making a roast chicken with lemon and herbs tonight, and will grill asparagus on the side. Could you suggest an easy second side dish that would go nicely? Thank you!

Kim O'Donnel: I'm a sucker for rice. Any kind will do. You could cook with some stock, add cashews at end, a wee bit of lime zest...sometimes I'll add half a can of coconut milk to my water ratio for some extra richness.

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Veg pizza follow-up: Thanks! How long should I cook the eggplant and zucchini? Should I just put it on a cookie sheet (sliced) and bake? Add olive oil/salt/anything?

Kim O'Donnel: Cook til nearly fork tender. Yes, you want salt, olive oil and maybe some herbs for kick. You can saute, bake, grill, whatever rocks your kasbah.

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Washington, D.C.: Do you know any Web sites where I can find a list of what produce is in season locally? I know I can always just visit the local farmers markets, but I'd love to have a list so I can do some seasonal meal planning. Ideally, I'd have a calendar showing what is generally in season each month.

Kim O'Donnel: I'm pretty sure that Freshfarm Market Web site has a calendar indicating when things come into season. Check that out for starters. This would be helpful for any market in this growing region.

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Kim. I'm interested in joining a CSA program this spring, but I'm not sure where to start. How do I find programs? Do you recommend any? And do they deliver, or do you have to drive out to the farm to pick up produce?

Kim O'Donnel: Last Friday, I wrote in the blog about a few farms with remaining CSA shares. Check this out, and step to it, as time is running out. Of the ten or so farms doing CSA programs, only four had spots left, as of Friday.

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Dayton, Ohio: Radish soup is wonderful -- shredded and sliced radishes in a veggie broth. They also make a great salad when combined with other crunchy vegetables like fennel root, celery or jicama. Or make a radish slaw with a simple vinegar and sugar dressing.

Kim O'Donnel: Nice! And maybe this would be of interest to our reader in Isreael who's looking for a spring soup without the use of a blender.

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Adams Morgan, Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim! I'm starting an apartment hunt around the area! I'm a beginner cook spreading my culinary wings and trying to become a bit more kitchen-savvy than my old mac and cheese in the microwave days. When I look at new apartments, what should I look for to make I have a good kitchen for cooking? (So far I'm looking for a gas oven and of course plenty of counter space.) What do you look for if/when you're scoping out new kitchens?

Kim O'Donnel: Exactly what you look for. My husband and I are about to become homeowners, and although the kitchen is small, the stove is gas powered. To me, there's never enough counter space, but the previous owner has made such efficient use of storage with its cabinets, so I'm happy. My rolling wheelie granite-top cart will be joining me in the new place. And light -- a window through which the sun can shine -- is very important.

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Columbia, Mo.: Peel and boil radishes. Season and serve as boiled potatoes. Wonderful! They get sweet and lose the bite this way.

Kim O'Donnel: Hmm. Never woulda thunk. Thanks for chiming in, Columbia.

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What's in season: I just looked and they do in fact have a list of what's in season each month. If you click on markets and then choose a market, you'll see a PDF of what's in season on the lower left. Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Excellent. I'm glad my memory is still intact...

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San Francisco, Calif.: I LOVED your blog piece today! How fun! I'd love to participate in a supper club out here in SF ... I haven't heard of any specifically for youngish urbanites, but I will have to look around -- and then maybe start one of my own! Thanks for the great piece.

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks much. I was impressed by their tenacity -- meeting consistenly every month and cooking an enormous amount of food in a small space -- as well as their enthusiasm for the experience. A great group of women. The piece, by the way, was inspired by a chat earlier this year, when a reader asked about supper clubs in DC, to which I replied, "Don't think so." Well, that afternoon, Karen from Gourmet Girls e-mailed me, which got me an invite, and so on. Please keep me posted of your progress, and I'm sure Karen would be willing to help you with tips on how to get it started.

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Downtown: Hi Kim,

Submitting early because I have a meeting at work today.

I have recently been placed on a wheat-free diet and have been missing things like baked good. My DH found a wheat-free/gluten-free muffin mix that I'm anxious to try. However, he has shipped out for the next 6 months, so it's just me for now and I can't eaat an entire batch of muffins myself before they get stale. Since I'm new to wheat-free baking, I don't want to be a "muffin fairy" until I've had a chance to tweak things a bit.

My question is should I mix up the batter and freeze in individual portions to bake up one at a time or should I bake the entire batch & then freeze the muffins/take one out at a time & warm up in my toaster oven?

Your suggestions are much appreciated!

Kim O'Donnel: I would say bake a whole batch and freeze rather than freezing batter. Hopefully in next few weeks, I'll have a bunch of gluten-free tips and tricks. Stay tuned.

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Kim O'Donnel: It's already time to sign off and get me some lunch. As always, thanks for the good cheer and community. Enjoy the change of seasons, and if you're in the neighborhood, join me Thursday at 1ET for this month's veggie lovefest. Bye!

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