What's Cooking With Kim O'Donnel

Calling all foodies! Join us for another edition of What's Cooking, our live online culinary hour with Kim O'Donnel.

A graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education (formerly known as Peter Kump's New York Cooking School), Kim spends much of her time in front of the stove or with her nose in a cookbook.

For daily dispatches from Kim's kitchen, check out her blog, A Mighty Appetite. You may catch up on previous transcripts with the What's Cooking archive page.

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Kim O'Donnel: Hello! Nice to be back after a two-week hiatus. As many of you know, I've been in New Orleans for the past week-plus as a volunteer chef with CulinaryCorps. I am still reeling from this very powerful experience. This Thursday at 1ET, I'll devote an entire hour to what's happening on the Gulf Coast, culinary and otherwise. Hope you can join me.

So how have you been? I've been getting all kinds of reports of garlic scapes, which means it's garlic pesto time, and thanks to all of you who've taken the Farmer's Market Challenge. I will be in touch with each of you in the coming week; stay tuned.

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Central Virginia: Hello! I'm writing in response to the person who is cooking just for herself, and wondering how to manage it. I've been doing it for some years now, and it's easy! Not a problem at all. You simply fix whatever you have a yen for -- tuna casserole, or rump roast, or spaghetti putanesca, crab crepes, chicken Marengo, or whatever -- and then you put the rest of it in the refrigerator and eat it later. I package my leftovers into meal-sized containers and take it into work for lunch. I like to make sure that I have a variety available -- I was afflicted not too long ago with a Magical Ham that, no matter how many slices I took off it, NEVER got any smaller. So be warned about hams.

Oh, yes -- and be sure to use your freezer. Cut that roast in half before you cook it, and freeze the other half to cook later, maybe with a different recipe. If you simply cannot eat another serving of that buryani from last week, freeze the rest of it. It'll taste great next month, and defrosting something is good and quick when you're pressed for time. Just be sure to label the stuff! There is nothing like pulling out an anonymous frozen lump and turning it over and over, thinking, "What IS this?" And put the date on it, too. Antique furniture is great; antique chicken and dumplings are nasty.

The most important thing about cooking for only one person is, make sure you have some good cookbooks. And have fun with it! Bon appetit!

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks for following up on this thread from a few weeks ago. Great advice about labeling food in the freezer. Really important!

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Radish-ville, NYC: So I thought I'd give radishes a second try. I saw them at the farmers market, and bought a bunch of French radishes (white and pink, more oval than round). I've eaten some with bread/butter/salt. Good. Growing on me. But I still have most of the bunch left. Help a gal, please!

Kim O'Donnel: I love radishes with goat cheese, mixed in with those lovely late spring lettuces, asparagus. Who's got other ideas.

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Kim -- I went to Montego Bay, Jamaica for the first time in April. On the last day, as I was browsing the stores in the airport, I ate beef patties! The beef was savory and spicy. The pastry was flaky and overall delicious! I can't find any Caribbean eateries here that do Jamaican beef patties justice, so I want to try making them myself. A key ingredient are the scotch bonnet peppers. I see the hablanos peppers, but not the scotch bonnets. Any ideas on where I could score some scotch bonnets? Thx.

Kim O'Donnel: I recently wrote a blog post on beef patties, fyi. They're great fun to make. Habaneros are close in heat to Scotch bonnets, which offer a fruitier flavor. I've seen them in Latin groceries, as well as some of the bigger Asian markets. Later in the summer, when chilies are at their peak, you'll likely find some at farmer's markets. If you can't find them right away, go ahead and use the habaneros. You'll be fine.

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Bored of marinara: When my husband and I need a quick to put together dinner, we saute some onions and garlic, throw in some green peppers, maybe some coriander and then pour in a bottle of marinara sauce and bring to a boil. We use whatever pasta we have at home (usually whole wheat) with our "home-made" marinara sauce. But I'm getting a bit fed up with marinara. Could you please offer some other relatively healthy pasta sauce alternatives with lots of flavor (nothing worse than boring pasta).

Kim O'Donnel: Make a pesto of garlic scapes or a mix of cilantro, mint and basil. Lovely stuff and versatile enough to use on sandwiches. I also love white wine with garlic, lemon zest, fresh parsley, olive oil over noodles, topped with a wee bit of bread crumbs. Anchovies pounded with garlic added to marinara or wine sauce is zesty. Other thoughts?

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Dayton, Ohio: Love the chats --

Not sure that I've yet seen your dry v. canned bean perspective. Latin restaurants always seem to have great beans -- not the mushy mess that comes out of a can.

Yesterday was my first attempt at working with dry black beans. Soaked in cold H20 overnite, changed water, boiled then simmered the requisite time. While not perfect, they were much better than canned and really didn't take much time at all.

But many of the beans did split -- which I don't think I see at restaurants. Are there other tricks I'm missing? Am game to try gigantes (lima beans?) next ...

Thanks for the NOLA work and updates!

Kim O'Donnel: Dried beans definitely have more flavor. A few months ago, I discovered heirloom beans grown by a guy out in Napa, Calif., called Steve Sando. His company is Rancho Gordo. What's amazing is how you can actually taste the difference among beans when they're dried. Canned beans tend to taste all teh same. By the way, you don't need to change water before cooking. Splitting is inevitable, but it can also be the result of cooking on high heat for long periods of time. Gentle, gentle.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim -- I just harvested a bunch of wonderful basil from our garden. Aside from a small batch of pesto, what can I do with all of it? Is there a feasible way to freeze/preserve the leaves for later use? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: I love it with watermelon and feta. On top of corn kernels. Mixed in with pasta, on top of pizza. Thrown into scrambled eggs. Mixed into your next fruit cobbler.

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Pasta sauce: Healthy alfredo sauce

In a blender/food processor: blend soft tofu, 4 T parmesan cheese, white pepper, 4 T melted butter, other seasoning to taste.

I usually add more cheese and less butter. I think garlic would be a great addition.

You can then add veggies (broccoli's good), shrimp, or chicken to the mix.

But you can vary it to your taste

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks. Terrific use of tofu. Cheers.

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Pasta sauce: capers, artichoke hearts, oil,

butter, pine nuts, cheese, spinach

just a tablespoon or two of barbeque sauce (try it! you'll be surprised)

Almost any kind of vegetable-based spread or bruschetta sauce works, if you dilute it with a little oil and/or wine vinegar. Trader Joe's has some great things like this.

Kim O'Donnel: More good ideas for pasta sauce...

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Fresh Basil: Last night I put fresh basil in a sauce I was making with chicken broth, diced tomatoes, and white wine. The sauce was fine, but I couldn't taste the basil at all. It simmered for about 10 minutes after I added the basil. Did I put the basil in too late, or did I kill the flavor by putting it in too early?

Kim O'Donnel: You put it in too early. Fresh basil doesn't like heat. Add just before serving. Trust me, you'll get a mouth full of basil without letting it simmer.

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Chevy Chase, Md.: Hi, Kim, I'm posting early because I'm so determined to ask the expert how to keep cilantro for a week or so in the refrig. I buy a large bunch and after using the 2-3 tbsp. for a recipe, I typically have to discard the rest later in the week because it has become slimy. I've tried chopping a bunch and freezing in a block, but it loses its taste. I've tried to store it in olive oil after I've chopped it up but that, too, doesn't taste quite the same. I've tried growing it with my other herbs outdoors, but it does not do too well. Any help or suggestions? Thank you a great forum. A cook in Chevy Chase

Kim O'Donnel: yeah, cilantro doesn't stick around for long, I'm afraid. One way to prolong its life is to wrap it in a damp towel, out of the plastic bag. I've never grown cilantro, but know it to be a little finicky. Anyone else with a reliable method of preserving cilantro?

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For Radish-ville: On a whim one day, I decided to cook my radishes. Just a bit of olive oil, salt, pepper, crushed garlic and whatever fresh herb I had around. It was simple, but very satisfying. Also too, the taste of the radish changes from cooking, and I think it's a much more mellow flavor.

I've also had success in roasting them in the oven -- 450 for a few minutes.

Kim O'Donnel: Nice! Thanks for chiming in...

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Pasta Sauce: Also good is a can of crushed tomatoes simmered in a little oil with a few cloves of minced garlic. After it gets thick you can add a can of flaked tuna, and some capers or chopped olives, if you like. It's nice to put the pasta right into the pan and add some of the cooking water until everything is the right consistency. It's good, uber-fast, and pretty healthy. I also like cold pasta dressed with soy, sesame, hot oil ... maybe some defrosted peas in there too.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes indeed...and I agree, love cold pasta just as you mentioned...

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Marinara alternative: Olive oil, chopped artichoke hearts, garlic, lemon, some parmesan cheese sprinkled on top.

Kim O'Donnel: More goodies to dress up pasta!

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Lemon Chicken Curry: Hi Kim! I'm a beginner cook so please forgive possibly obvious questions. I've always been scared by Indian cooking, as it seems very labor intensive. But your lemon chicken curry seemed so easy. I made it last night but it didn't turn out quite as I hoped. It was very oily, and the sauce was pretty thin. First error is that I only used 1.75 lbs of chicken thighs. I figured that I would not change any of the other amounts since it could not hurt to have too much sauce. Well I realize now that I should have cut back on the amount of oil. The chicken also did not get falling off the bone tender. Any tips for the recipe to help me next time? I also noticed that my ginger paste was more water than paste. But I thought I used more ginger than it called for. Thanks for your help! These chats are an inspiration to me!

Kim O'Donnel: First order of business: Don't think too much. Braising is one of those techniques that works seamlessly if the cook is relaxed. This is particularly important when it comes to getting the meat tender. Let it do its thing, covered, until meat is tender. Use the clock as a guideline, not as gospel. As it relates to the sauce, sounds like you were short on cilantro. The more cilantro, the thicker the sauce. I'd err on the side of overdoing it here. Another question: Did you remove skin from chicken? This helps with oil quotient immensely.

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Arlington, Va.: I bought garlic scapes at the Arlington market and was very excited to try them. I think I did okay ... I made a shrimp stir-fry and used the scapes instead of scallions. I blanched them for 2 minutes, though I might do it for 1 minute next time if I get similar scapes, my fiance and I like stronger flavors.

One question that I hope I figured out right, based on google which led me to a previous column of yours: to trim it, do you trim the top or the bottom? By bottom I mean the thicker part, by top I mean the curlier, thinner part above the white-colored break in the scape? Sorry if that wasn't clear!

Kim O'Donnel: Glad you enjoyed using scapes; they're a lot of fun, no? Re: trimming: It's only necessary if you see a little blossom on the end. Otherwise, use the entire thing.

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Farmers Markets: I'm intrigued by the whole issue you are examining about the costs of produce at farmers markets. Have you (or any chatters) been to the year round farmers market up in Northeast D.C. (about half a mile from the New York Ave Metro)? I was wondering if prices might be cheaper there since it is a lower-income area than Dupont or Courthouse.

Kim O'Donnel: I haven't been over to the seasonal H Street Market yet, but intend to get there soon. I'll keep you posted on the progress of this little experiment, and I'm relying on the wallets, eyes and ears of y'all to make it happen.

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Takoma Park, Md.: Hi Kim!

I picked up some garlic tops (scapes) at the farmers market this weekend. Should I use them to replace the green garlic heads in your spring risotto? Several of the vendors offered garlic pesto recipes, how about that? Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Yes to subbing scapes for green garlic. Pesto would be better mixed in with pasta. See earlier post from reader who cooked them like scallions and mixed in with shrimp. Would be wonderful as part of a stir fry.

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Basil: My absolute favorite thing to do with basil is to make a tomato and cheese tart. Not inventive, but awesome. I prefer seeding the tomatoes to keep the consistency drier.

Kim O'Donnel: You need not be inventive to be awesome. Do you make your own dough, dear?

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Cilantro Life: I find it helps if I trim the cilantro stems, wash, and dry in the salad spinner. For one thing, I am more likely to use it if it's all ready to go. But I also think that keeping it clean and dry makes the slime less likely to form(maybe something about how dirt particles trap moisture?). And if I can see it going, I often puree it with old parsley, ginger, and lemon juice for an indian relish that keeps a bit longer.

Kim O'Donnel: Excellent suggestions. Thanks much.

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Quick Pasta: This I use when I get home really, really late and want something more than fast food. I make some wheat pasta and just toss it with Kraft's Roasted Red Pepper with parmesan Italian dressing. I'll often add some parmesan cheese, black pepper, basil, red pepper flakes, and if I have enough energy to open a can, diced tomatoes (drained).

Kim O'Donnel: And yet another idea for making pasta on the fly...Cheers!

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I just harvested a bunch of wonderful basil from our garden. Aside from a small batch of pesto, what can I do with all of it?: put some sprigs in a pretty glass of water on your kitchen window sill for a pretty and aromatic bouquet of green.

Kim O'Donnel: Absolutely! Basil makes for wonderful aromatherapy.

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Washington, D.C.: Good day! Do you have any suggestions for summery salads with chickpeas (aka garbonzos)? I have several cans of them staring at me from the cupboard, and I bet they'd be delicious with some interesting combo of fruit and greens.

Kim O'Donnel: Chickpeas are one of my favorite things. Soak some wheat bulgur, drain and then season with olive oil and lemon juice, add drained chickpeas and some chopped parsley and tomato. Wonderful with lots of garlic, heated up a bit and then mixed with grilled squid. Love to spice them up with curry and lots of cilantro. Great in potato salad.

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Pasta options: I saw Lidia Bastianich make a light pasta sauce of butter, walnuts, and lots of fresh sage. She removed the leaves before serving and tossed with a bit of parmegiano reggiano.

Looked delightful to me.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes indeed...and if you could ease up on the butterfat by mixing in half olive oil. thanks!

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Purple Cauliflower: I got a head of purple cauliflower in my CSA this week. I have been told that it turns a grayish color when cooked. Is this true? Usually I just roast cauliflower in the over with S and P and olive oil, but I think the gray color may weird me out. Any suggestions?

Kim O'Donnel: I can't remember, honestly. Let's ask others -- does purple cauli turn gray when cooked?

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Farmer's market: Just thought I'd let you know that the new Farmer's Market at 14th and U is great. It's small -- 8-10 people but it was hopping last weekend with lots of lovely stuff.

Kim O'Donnel: Wonderful! Great to know. Thanks for the report.

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Clifton, Va.: Went to the new farmer's market at the Whole Foods at Fair Lakes. I have wanted to try Smithfield Farm's products. They had a very limited selection and everything was frozen.

Picked up a porterhouse, some hamburger and sirlion tip roast. I am very disappointed. For the same price I can go to Wegman's and get beef with more taste that isn't chewy. And they can't hold a candle to The Organic Butcher. The produce matches Wegman's in quality but the prices are higher and the cheese person's mozzarella was too bad but priced than Wegman's. The Clifton Farmer's market has better prices. Never buy Smithfield products again.

Kim O'Donnel: Hmm. Well, in all fairness, all meat vendors at market sell their stuff frozen. I know the Pritchards quite well, and I know they'd appreciate getting your feedback. When you're at market again, let them know in person or give them a call.

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Reston, Va.: I'm a long-time vegetarian who is just learning to cook meat for the first time (long story). My mother's (and grandmother's) method for making roasts calls for searing the meat in the oven at 500 degrees for half an hour or so and then turning the temperature down. But I seem to be unable to find a brand of dutch oven that is oven-safe to that temperature ... Le Creuset is only oven safe to 400 degrees because of the handles. Is there another brand that will work at hotter temperatures?

Kim O'Donnel: I would double check on Le Creuset because handles are also enamel. Lodge is another brand but it's all cast-iron, not enamale coated. Anyone have thoughts?

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Purple cauli: turns mauve, not exactly straight gray. If you cook it, do it very lightly.

I find it's tastier are prettier if you eat it raw.

Kim O'Donnel: Excellent. thanks for jogging my memory...

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Kim,

I made orzo for the first time last night (mixed with some cherry toms, basil, lemon zest, garlic and chicken -- groovy) and the package didn't have a cooking time. I boiled for about 7 - 8 minutes. The consistency was good, but it was a little sticky. Did I cook to long? I gave a quick rinse but maybe a more thorough rinse next time? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: That's about the right amount of time for orzo, but yeah, next time a little more rinsing might help. I also think that after rinsing, a little lathering of olive oil is helpful.

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Beaverton, Ore.: Re: Rancho Gordo ... YUM, I ordered some of their beans and absolutely love them. They have a marvelous variety. I plan on working my way through them all! Fortunately my husband loves beans ... so thanks for posting that info a while back. And yes dried beans are so much better than canned ... for the sodium content alone (whatever you add) not to mention the flavor.

Kim O'Donnel: Ah, yes, the dreaded sodium. thanks for adding on...this reminds me I need to place a Rancho Gordo order...

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Quick dried beans:: If you can get to a Latino store/Hispanic section, pick up a

1-pound bag of Salvadoran red beans. No soaking required.

I cook them in about two hours with 12 cups of salted water (14 or 15 if they're for my Salvadoran husband, who likes them authentically soupy) and loads of garlic. Easy, delicious.

It does make a lot, but you can puree and then fry them for fabulous refried beans, and they do freeze well in that form.

Probecho!

Kim O'Donnel: Muchas gracias!

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Alexandria, Va.: What is the best way to store baked goods? I've been on a baking rampage and I'm having trouble with stuff either drying out (in the fridge) or molding (on the counter) really quickly.

Thank you.

Kim O'Donnel: Based on my experience, the only baked good that likes the fridge is pie. Keep cakes outta the fridge. You need some airtight containers, dear, and you can find a sealable cake stand as well.

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Chickpeas: Go in a wonderful couscous salad. Make the couscous using mostly --orange juice -- instead of water. (Canned works well here). Add salt and pepper, bags of parsley, bell peppers, spring onions a little tomato and of course the chickpeas.

Kim O'Donnel: Lovely! Thanks for the ideas.

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Lemon Chicken Curry: Funny, I also meant to ask, how much is two bunches of cilantro? So I guess I'll use more cilantro next time. I had to buy the kind that was pre-cut in one of those plastic packs, so it was hard to determine. And I did leave the skin on, I had debate with myself as to whether "skinned" meant, skinless or with skin. Anyway, thanks so much! And I will be sure to relax! I think next time I make it I'll open a bottle of wine.

Kim O'Donnel: Keep us posted on your progress...you're on the right road.

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Arlington, Va.: I'm going camping with a group of friends this weekend ... any thoughts on camping friendly pasta salads and potato salads? I'm trying to avoid mayo-based salads but I'm stumped.

Kim O'Donnel: Mustard will be your friend. Mustard, olive oil, scallions (or garlic scapes), your favorite vinegar, lots of fresh parsely. The potatoes will love it.

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Aspiring baker: Hi Kim! Love your columns and chats!

I am wondering if you could help me -- I LOVE to bake, and have been told by good friends that I'm quite good at it! I would very much like to make my baking my full-time job, but I have no formal training or experience. Any ideas on how I could get my foot in the door? Do you suggest classes first, and if so, where?

Thanks!!

Kim O'Donnel: Offer your services for free at your neighborhood bakery in exchange for on-the-job training. Don't be shy; start talking up your local patissiers. You never know until you ask.

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New farmer': The market will be held rain or shine 3-7 p.m. Wednesdays until Nov. 14 at 7676 New Hampshire Ave. in Takoma Park.

Visit Crossroads Farmer's Market.

Kim O'Donnel: Ooh! Nice. All these great updates on farmer's markets.

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Dutch oven searing: You'll get better results if you do the searing on the stove top in a deep skillet, turning the meat a few times so it's all cooked. Then transfer to dutch oven.

Or if you insist doing it in the Le Creuset, then you shouldn't have a problem because you should NOT use the top during the searing process. If the top is on, you're steaming, not searing.

Kim O'Donnel: Actually, you can do the searing stovetop in the Le Creuset, and thanks for the reminder on keeping the lid OFF.

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Lodge: They've started offering enamel -- the price point is good and it works as well as Le Cruset ...

Kim O'Donnel: Oh good. Didn't know that.

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Kim O'Donnel: Time's up for today. So great to hear from you. Join me this Thursday at 1ET for an hour devoted to the state of the Gulf Coast. In the meantime, come on over to the blog space that is A Mighty Appetite. All best.

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