Talk About Travel

Tblisi, Croatia, Maine, passport info and more.

The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of ... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.

We know you have a choice in online travel forums, and speaking for the entire Flight Crew, we want to thank you for flying with us. Joining the Flight Crew today is Nancy Schretter, online editor of Travel Family Network, who's on hand to field questions about traveling with kids.

You may also browse an archive of previous live travel discussions. For daily dispatches, check out Travel Log, the Travel section's new blog.

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Gary Lee: Gary Lee here as captain of the Washington Post travel section chat. To field questions today, we have a nearly full crew: KC Summers, travel section editor; John Deiner, deputy editor, Staff writers Andrea Sachs and Carol Sottili, section researcher Anne McDonough. Between us, we have a wide range of experiences and topics of expertise and are happy to try to field your every query. However, if you feel like adding your two cents to any issues raised, jump right in there.

As many of us hit the road for summer vacation we are also encountering the gamut of travel woes -- low dollar exchange rates, long security lines, etc. The issue of the day is passports. I wonder whether any of you have taken advantage of the new rule that allows you to get back into the country without a passport as long as you have a form showing that your application for a passport has been found. Any good or bad experiences with that? Or with passports in general? The best answer gets a "buildabear" travel kit, a tote bag with a tiny robe, slippers and other goodies for toddlers who are hitting the road.

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Passport Problem: Like many of your readers, I'm caught in the web of the passport crunch, even though I applied over 4 months before my travel!

I applied 15 weeks ago and I'm still waiting (the on-line status is "It is currently being processed")Meanwhile, my spouse applied the very same day and got his over a month ago!

I saw your advice about making an appointment with the Passport Office if travel is 2 weeks or less away. Our travel is 4 weeks away. I would like advice on two questions:

1. Can I make the appointment now and see them in 2 weeks?

2. Should I call my Congressional representative now and see if they can contact the State Dept. on my behalf?

KC Summers:1. Sorry to say that they won't even talk to you until your trip is 14 days away -- the point is that they're trying to de-clog the phone lines by restricting calls to dire emergencies.

2. Yes, I recommend calling your senator or congressperson. Line-jumping seems like the only way out of the morass right now. Either that, or camp outside the passport office for hours in hopes of being seen.

Good luck!

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Arlington, VA: Harrah's sent me a perks package trying to lure me out to Atlantic City for a visit. They're offering two free nights, $50 cash, $50 in food credit, and $50 for the pier shops. The offer's good through September. Should I take them up on it for a weekend trip? Is AC worth it?

John Deiner: Hey, Arl. Man, that seems like a good perks package. If you can control yourself in the casino, I think you could have a decent time there. I mean, just go to the beach if you want, or stay at Harrah's and get in your car and explore other parts of the coast on day trips. I'd definitely do it.

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St. Paul, Minn: I am heading to Tbilisi, Georgia Sunday for two weeks of work with, I hope, a bit of time for sightseeing. This has come up suddenly...and I've never been there before. Any tips on what to expect, must-sees, customs I should be aware of??

Gary Lee: Tblisi, which I have visited several times, is a lovely city with warm, friendly people. It's been a while since I was there but can recommend that you do a wine tasting tour, which you can organize through your hotel. Georgian wine is great. I also suggest a visit to the Janashia Museum of Art, which has a good collection of silver and gold pieces.

Anyone else been to Tblisi and have tips?

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Washington, D.C.: Yay for the Flight Crew! I'm really hoping you can help me with an Atlantic City question. My boyfriend and I are headed up there on Friday evening, and trying to figure out the sanest way to travel. Greyhound has a bus that supposedly runs up the strip, but our past Greyhound haven't been great so we're leaning towards driving. People have told me the drive isn't terrible, but since it's the start of July 4th week, I'm worried about the traffic (and leaving early on Friday or Saturday is not an option - unfortunately, it's got to be Friday evening). Do you know of any alternate routes that might help get us there as quickly as possible? We would be so grateful for any advice you or the chatters could provide!

John Deiner: Hey, DC. I'd drive, but I wouldn't head out before 8 p.m. Go as late as possible and you'll most likely avoid the worst delays. Just be wary of the traffic on I-95 near some of the work zones near White Marsh outside of Baltimore, and be prepared to jump off in Delaware if the toll plaza is bad (driving through Delaware is even worse than normal these days). I got stuck last night in about an hour delay near the toll plaza at 10 p.m., which was crazy. I'm going to have a better alternate route mapped out for next time instead of my standard toll plaza bypass.

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Centreville, VA: I'm going on my first international flight ever (Paris!), and I'm hoping you can help me with understanding customs. If I buy things in Paris and have them shipped back to me directly from where I bought them, do I still have to declare them when I come back through US customs? Or do I just have to pay duty on them when they are delivered to my house? I want to ship as much as I can directly home, even though I know it means I won't get the VAT refunded, because I just don't trust the airlines not to lose all my stuff!

Gary Lee: We're stumped on this one, Centreville as we all usually bring items back with us when we shop abroad. Anyone out there have any thoughts on this?

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Washington, DC: Hi Flight Crew, I'd like to get to Chicago this weekend to help celebrate my grandparent's anniversary (DCA to ORD). Unfortunately I have not yet purchased a ticket. Right now flights are about $350+, do you think these will decrease as the weekend approches? I'd settle for around $250, but I really don't want to pay more. Any advice? Thanks!

Anne McDonough: A lot of folks are going to treat this weekend as a holiday weekend and looking at fares, so are airlines. Hotwire, my go-to for last minute fares, has a $314 leaving Friday and coming back Sunday, but doesn't reveal the departure times at that price (to see departure times, flights are $400-plus) so if your times aren't flexible, that's no help. And looking at the budget airlines, nothing is coming up under $350 (Southwest is $378, roughly what Airtran is); I don't think between now and Friday they're going to come down. If you see a $350, I would buy it, especially since it's an anniversary, and not an event that you can work around. Just keep your searches open to all Washington-area and Chicago-area airports, not just DCA and ORD. Good luck!

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American Airlines "weather delay": On Friday, June 8, American Airliens had a technical glitch that caused it to cancel many of its East coast-departing flights. In a bizarre coincidence, my flight leaving DCA that night for O'Hare was cancelled due to "weather" even though no other flights on the same route were cancelled and AA offered to put me on a flight out of Dulles that night, but did not give me any way to get to Dulles.

What can consumers do when it seems like "weather" is being given to prevent airlines from having to compensate passengers for delays?

For what it's worth, some other highlights of this misadventure: I was stuck in DC for an extra 24 hours; the first AA rep I spoke to said unless I was willing to fly out of Baltimore, I couldn't leave for 48 hours and once I agreed to that I "would not be able to change flights again" (I said fat chance); the O'Hare-bound flight on Saturday afternoon that left before the one I got on was overbooked and passengers bumped got $300 vouchers for taking my two-hour later flight and got seated ahead of low-lifes like me waiting 23 hours to leave DC; not one of the more than dozen AA reps I spoke to apologized; and did I mentioned that I was returning to Chicago from a funeral on Friday so I was already was in great spirits.

Carol Sottili: There is no passenger rights' law. It's really up to the airlines to decide how to compensate you. American Airlines does have a customer service plan - to to www.aa.com and click on "about us" to get the plan. That may give you an avenue to complain.

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Dalmatia in November?: Hi Flight Crew!

I am planning a trip to Croatia for me and my friends. We've reached an impasse on dates and we are now pushed into November if we go in 2007.

We really want to see the Istrian coast as well as the Dalmatian Coast (meaning, Rovinj/Pula... Plitvice Lakes... then Dubrovnik and Split)

Would it be folly to go in November - both weather wise AND infrastructure-wise (ferries, other things have closed down, etc etc.)

many thanks...

KC Summers: Are you sure you can't talk your friends into going at another time? You've picked a gorgeous destination, but the weather might be a little iffy in November: Historical weather data show that the average high in Split in November is 58, and November is also the wettest month of the year. Dubrovnik and some of the more southerly islands will of course be warmer than in the north, so you might want to focus your explorations in that area. Ferry schedules (a great way to see the coast!) will be erratic and you'll have a harder time finding lodging (the hotel infrastructure in Croatia is a bit lacking at the best of times).

I visited in mid-September and found it a perfect time: Summer crowds were waning but the ferries were still operating regularly and we had no trouble finding lodging.

Good luck -- let us know how you fare.

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Europe: I am a U.S. citizen living abroad (in a European capitol with an American consulate here in town.)

My passport expires this winter. I have been reading horror stories about people's pasports taking months. I don't want to be without a passport for months-- I am not in the U.S. and want to be able to go "home" should I want or need to. I also need one to travel within Europe (even within Schengen countries, as even though there aren't usually checks non-EU citizens have to have passports.)

Are the waits for passports for overseas citizens just as long?

Andrea Sachs: I just spent the morning at the passport facility here and what wait! But that is only for people who are departing in three days or less. Otherwise, the estimated time is 12 to 14 weeks, so you should be fine if your passport expires in winter. In addition, the State Department hopes to plow through the backlog by the end of the year.

However, I am not sure if expats' passports are processed through the facilities stateside or through the American Embassy. Call the embassy nearest you for details.

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Columbus, Ohio: Any hot tips or suggestions for first time visitors to Maine,

staying near Acadia Nat. Park, Camden, etc.? Thanks!

John Deiner: Hey, Columbus. That's one big beautiful state there, and you can't go wrong anywhere you travel. It's been a while since I've been there, but you may want to consider Moosehead Lake -- really seemed to capture the real Maine. I stayed in Bar Harbor in the off season and was told that the town is a real zoo in the summer, so you may want to curb your time a bit in that spot, but let's throw this out to the clicksters.

Any suggestions for a first-timer to Maine?

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Philadelphia, Pa: What actually is the reason behind the passport problems, delays, etc? Is it just because of the long-ago-announced change for people crossing borders with Canada, etc.? Why are so many people suddenly applying for them? I'm genuinely curious - in my family, if we hadn't needed a passport before we turned 16, we applied for it as soon as we got our driver's licenses, so the idea of not having a passport is one of those "huh?" thoughts for me. And to follow - my passport expires in spring 2009...should I be worried now?

KC Summers: The surge is due to the new law that went into effect last January requiring that travelers flying by air to Canada, Mexico, the Caribbean, Bermuda and the Bahamas now need passports (before they needed only proof of U.S. citizenship and a photo ID). Simple as that. As to why people are suddenly applying now, these poor folks believed the passport office this spring when they were promised a four- to six-week processing time. Now, of course, it's more like three to four months for some folks.

I wouldn't apply now for a 2009 expiration -- have pity on this summer's travelers! Apply this winter when the vacation surge has died down.

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Washington, D.C.: I'm looking to visit Italy in October. The flight prices right now are around $720. Do you think this is reasonable? What would be a good price range? Also, with about a week to spend in Italy, what cities would you recommend visiting? Thank you!

Carol Sottili: Italy has always been expensive to get to, although just a few years ago, it wasn't uncommon to find airfares in the $600 range during fall.Check fares out of New York on Euroflyusa.com - they may be lower. But I think $720 is about right for October, as long as that includes all your taxes/fuel surcharges. As for where to visit, depends on your interests. For a week, I'd stick to two cities. Florence and Venice perhaps?

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Arlington, Va: Hi Flight Crew - referring to the long list of airlines, what is your favorite airline (regardless of destination) and why?

Gary Lee: We like the following: Jet Blue (KC;) Southwest (John); Continental (Carol; Singapore Air (Andrea); Cathay Pacific (Gary.)

Which one do you like?

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VAT - a few answers?: Hi

I think I can answer a few things, maybe.

I bought spendy things on a recent trip to Italy (hint - Ferragamo will ship, Prada won't).

Ferragamo will handle taking the VAT off for you, when you ship. Shipping it pretty cheap too - 30E for 3 pairs of shoes. No idea if I am going to eventually pay a duty - the shoes came in, no extra charges. Someone may catch up with me someday but so far so good.

You have to show your goods to the VAT people in the airport. That can be a pain if there are items you have to check - which means if you are going to shop a lot, either ship everything you can (VAT taken off by store) or hope you can convince the VAT folks that you really did buy what you said you did. In my case, we split the difference. The VAT person looked at what I had and didn't have on my person and let some go through and some not. He didn't like that I was actually using my brand new Furla purse (less than 24 hours old). It needs to be in its original bag or box. He let it through however. A few other pairs of shoes he would not so I guess I ate VAT on them.

good luck!

Gary Lee: hey, thanks for those tips.

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Washington, DC: Do you have views about travel insurance? Our travel agent

seems to think it would be a good idea, but the insurance for

this particular trip is quite expensive (as is the trip itself).

Carol Sottili: I think travel insurance is a good idea, but you have to figure out why you're buying it and then make sure the policy covers that. For example, my mother went to Michigan on a bus trip. She knew that her sister-in-law was quite ill, so she bought insurance. My aunt died during my mother's trip. But my mom had to pay her own way back even though she had trip insurance because she didn't read the policy, which excluded in-laws. Shop around for insurance before you buy from the tour operator. Go to www.insuremytrip.com or www.quotewright.com to comparison shop.

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Pittsburgh PA: I sent in my passport, application, etc for a name change in January. Two months later, they rejected it. They claimed that my signature was photocopied. This is false; I had a black-and-white printout of their form, which I had signed with a black ballpoint pen. I got a color copy of the form, signed it in blue ink, and finally got my new passport after another two months. Applicants, beware: sign your forms in a different color of ink! (This should work until they learn about color copiers; then I don't know what they'll do.)

My parents claim that they read a news story wherein the head of the Passport Agency was quoted as saying that their staffing shortage was a deliberate decision to maximize expediting fees. (If this is the case, it's obviously backfired.) Do you know anything about this charge?

KC Summers: Hear that, applicants? Watch your ink color. Thanks for the tip, Pitt. Whatever it takes.... I didn't hear that charge about the deliberate understaffing, but I would chalk up this fiasco more to mismanagement and poor planning.

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washingtonpost.com: Beach Guide 2007

KC Summers: Here you go, for the Dewey Beach-bound. Thanks Kim.

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Gaithersburg, MD: I also was stuck on the Delaware turnpike for an hour. Do you or any of the other chatters know of another way to avoid the DE turnpike? It takes almost as long to go down the NJ turnpike than going through those 5 miles in Delaware!

John Deiner: Hey, Gaithersburg. That was crazy, wasn't it? I always jump off at 896 and do the workaround past the toll plaza, but I waited too late yesterday to avoid the first four miles and it was dark and I didn't have my atlas handy and I was tired and grumpy so I just sat there and became tireder and grumpier. I did jump off for the final mile and a half, but the drive was an eternity, and I've never seen the Delaware rest area more crazed.

Again, it was 10 P.M. Everyone should have been home by then except for me.

I know you guys have shared it before: What are some good ways to avoid I-95 in Delaware? I'm printing out the answers myself if anyone has one.

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Chesapeake Beach: We were in New York a few weeks ago and had some taxi troubles. I was wondering if the more NYC savvy amongst you could provide me with some help. We had left my sister's apartment in Chelsea and caught a cab. We loaded the sleeing kid, the crabby kid, the stroller and bags in and told the driver where we were staying in Jersey City. He pulled over and told us it was illegal for him to take us to New Jersey unless we negociated a fare with him and told us it would be at least 60.00. We said no just use the meter it was late and no way would it be that much and he kicked us out saying that was against the rules. Fortunately, we new enough about public transportation to know to get on a PATH train to the hotel. But in the futre I would like to know the rules on New York cabs. Can they go to New Jersey? What is a fair fare to get there? It seems crazy that you cannot leave the city in a cab.

Anne McDonough: Hi Chesapeake, according to the NTC Taxi and Limousine Commission, with the exception of going to Newark airport, for NYC to NJ trips, "the fare will be a set-rate, pre-determined between the passenger and the driver that must be paid at the end of the trip." It is not a metered fare, and the passenger is responsible for paying any tolls, at the EZ pass discounted rate. I know I've taken a cab from from midtown to Hoboken and it was about $50, so $60 to Jersey City doesn't sound so unreasonable. For more info: http://www.nyc.gov/html/tlc/html/passenger/faq_pass.shtml#17

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re: bringing home finds from abroad: Do you mean to tell me that you carried all your travel goodies on the plane with you? I imagined most of you finding furniture and art pieces abroach and shipping them back home. I too am now curious on best and most cost-effective method to ship these items home.

Gary Lee: When bringing large items -- rugs, furniture, lamps, artwork -- I have usually turned to companies or stores that have special divisions for this. They usually handly the customs issues. One tip: take two pictures of what you bought. Include one with the shipment and keep one on hand with you to make sure that you get what you shipped and not something else.

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Passport query: So, if one of the only solutions to get a passport is to contact Hill representation, who do District residents contact? Can Eleanor Holmes Norton help us out? We don't have Senators, so we're already a distinct disadvantage on this issue. One more reason for representation!

KC Summers: Yep, Eleanor Holmes Norton may be your last hope.

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Maine Tips: if you are driving, the small towns near the state line are wonderful - ongunquit, kennebunk, york, etc. Avoid touristy spots or you will pay through the nose for lobsters. Look for the local lobster pounds" where the atmosphere is VERY casual and the prices are too. and bring bug spray. you'll need it. also - even in the summers, evenings can get chilly - bring a sweater/jeans and/or a sweatshirt or long sleeved shirt.

John Deiner: Great stuff, MT. Love the lobster tip.

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Clifton, VA: What are the chances of finding parking at Dulles on July 4th? Leaving for Vegas and Washington Flyer wants $60 from my place which is 15 minutes from the airport.

Andrea Sachs: Dulles has more than 25,000 spots, so even if you're sent to the Mars Lot, you still should find a spot.

If you don't want to waste time looking for a place to park, you could take the 5A bus from L'Enfant Plaza or Rosslyn Metro to the airport. Super cheap and someone else drives (double check beforehand for holiday times).

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Arlington, VA: A passport story with a happy ending. I applied mid-March for a trip that begins tomorrow. I received my renewed passport last Thursday to my great relief. Only advice I can give is be polite and persistent. Once you are allowed to call, the customer service reps are pretty good - I always felt like the ones I talked with were honest. They told me where the application was physically (New Hampshire as it turned out). They encouraged me to call every day to see what was going on. Last Tuesday one rep did tell me he didn't think I could get an appointment. After that call, and in a slight panic, I called my rep's office (Jim Moran). The staffer was sympathetic, but she told me she could not fax me one of those referral letters until my trip was 72 hours away. Not sure if that is a Dept of state rule or just Moran's office's policy. She said they had assisted many hundreds of people and that I would probably have to wait in line for 6 or 7 hours if I had to go the referral route. Happily, when I called the passport people Wed they could tell me the book had been printed. I asked for overnight delivery and the rep said he would request it. That night I had a Fedex confirmation number and it arrived the next day. I think I was fortunate to have received it, though I suppose I could have fallen back on the congressional referral if I needed to.

Gary Lee: Hey, nice to hear a good passport story. Thanks for sharing...

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Alexandria VA: Americans living overseas are in luck. Since their passports renewals will be processed at the embassy, they should be able to avoid the stateside backlog.

P.S. Another contributor to the passport rush was the threat of biometric chips being installed in new passports. There are some people who are leery of this technology.

Andrea Sachs: Nice to hear. No lines, or are there ...

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Silver Spring, MD: As a native Mainer, I was excited to see my state featured in your chat. It is true that Bar Harbor is a huge tourist draw in the summer, but it is TOTALLY worth it. Across the bay from Bar Harbor is Acadia Nat'l Park on Mt. Desert (pronounced like dessert) Island. There is camping facilities in the park. It is a beautiful place to experience nature, and in my multiple trips there, I have never felt overwhelmed by tourists.

Portland is also a great place to stop. Lot of history and of course, the Portland Head Light in nearby Cape Elizabeth, Maine.

If you love seafood, Portland is the place to go!

John Deiner: Hey, Silver. Good to know. We stayed in Bar Harbor for a week in May once and loved it. And Acadia is unbelievable . . .you native Mainers deserve to be proud!

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Metro Center, Washington, DC: Hi Crew,

We need to get to Burlington, VT for a wedding in mid-August leaving on a Friday returning on Sunday. What's the best way to get there? Jetblue seems to connect in NY.. which stinks for a 90 minute flight. Any ideas for cheap alternatives? Thanks!

Carol Sottili: United flies nonstop from Dulles. US Airways flies nonstop from DCA. But you'll pay about $150 more for those flights. Time or money?

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for First Time Maine-r: My husband and I went to Maine last July for vacation - it was wonderful! In Bar Harbor, we stayed at a B&B called the Maples Inn. It was lovely, affordable and close to the center of town. Also, not a far drive from Acadia. And the innkeeper was wonderfully helpful with things to do as well as restaurants. I highly recommend it.

John Deiner: Great!! Thanks for the tip . . . sounds terrific.

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Washington, DC: Hi. I'm writing in about passports. It took 14 weeks for me to get my passport renewed, and I applied when the website was saying it would take 8-10. I truly believe that the -only- reason that I managed to get my passport back already, and am not still waiting for it, is because I called. And called. And called. In fact, I still remember the numbers to press in. I was on hold often times for an hour or so, but eventually, I managed to get through. And each time, someone did their best to help me, and put notes on my file to expedite it. And each time I got their name, and when the time window passed in which they said I would receive my passport, I called back, and gave their name to the person I was on the phone with this time. It took about three cycles of this. I refused to wait until two weeks ahead of a trip and then desperately need an appointment and not be able to get one. I really believe that we need to be our own advocate, and keep on trying to get answers. I also believe that if the website gave more information than my application is being processed, I would have waited longer to call in for information. If I can track a UPS package down to where it is on the delivery truck, I should be able to get more information about where my passport is in the renewal process. I know that this goes against everything you guys have said about not calling until you're within the two week window to avoid jamming the phone lines, but I really do believe it's the only thing that worked for me. And it's what I have recommended to all of my friends who are in the same boat.

KC Summers: Interesting. It's true that you're your own best advocate, and if this system worked for you, more power to you. Of course you were clogging the lines so that more desperate people were perhaps not getting through, but whatever. It's a passport jungle out there.

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Washington, DC: Do you possibly know if the airport (Reagan) is going to be really busy on Saturday because of the holiday? Also, is there anything interesting to do in LaGuardia during a two hour layover?

Thanks!

Gary Lee: We don't know LaGuardia well enough to recommend a hangout there? Does anybody out there?

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Passport fee rumor: Let me quash the "State Department deliberately fudged passport situation to collect max fees rumor." The Dept. is now calling for volunteers to come in and help with the rush, a move that will end up costing the Department substantially at a time where we really cannot spare the money (thanks Iraq!). To claim that we're trying to profit off this FUBAR situation is ridiculous.

KC Summers: FUBAR? Is that like SNAFU?

Anyway, thanks, you sound like you're in the thick of it.

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Newport News VA: So I'm trying to work out if it'd be worthwhile for me to join my husband in Japan after his conference in Kyoto wraps up. I'd be able to spend 5-6 days there, tops; we're not sure exactly where we'd like to sight-see, but were thinking Kyoto and possibly Tokyo. Is that a long enough trip to be worth the airfare, travel time and jet lag?

Andrea Sachs: My feeling is that any travel, no matter how long a flight or short a time, is worthwhile. If you do go, don't try to see too much of the country. I would stay in Kyoto and sightsee in and around the city. You will not run out of temples and shrines, noodle shops, museums, parks and more. Also be sure it squeeze in a visit to a hot springs spa, or onsen. Your jet-lagged body will thank you.

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Too good to be true in Cancun?: How legit are the faxed promotions that I receive at work for "Limited Time Only" vacation packages? (Solicitors find their way to get to us, don't they?)

Anyway, I received one of these faxes today and decided to call (1800-903-5681). I spoke with a rep and she offered a great deal for Cancun - $323 per person for 6 days at one of their selected resorts on their website at www.cancuncheapticket.com The resorts appear to be very nice!...All meals and drinks, too. Is this too good to be true? Sounds fishy to me.

Carol Sottili: Cancun Cheap Ticket is a company that is headquarted in Cancun, so they're not subject to U.S. consumer laws. I found one blog item about them from a person who said they are actually a timeshare company and you will have to sit through a 90 minute presentation plus pay fees that are not included in the quoted price. I can't say whether that blogger is right/wrong, but I believe that if something is too good to be true.......

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Washington, DC: My passport expires in March 2007. Since it's essentially worthless for six months before expiration (since you can't enter many countries), I need to send it in soon. I'm really worried about the renewal process - should I be? Can I send it in now and hope it gets back before the end of the year? For what it's worth, my friend sent hers in over three months ago since she got married and changed her name. They cashed her check in March but it never showed as processing on the State Dept. website. It finally just showed up in the mail last week.

KC Summers: Yeah, you should be worried. But honestly, I would wait till fall or winter to apply, to let this vacation lump pass through the snake. If you know what I mean.

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NY, NY - Live in Hoboken NJ: I've frequently taken cabs from Manhattan to Hoboken or Jersey City and they usually charge $40.

As far as I know fares don't need to be negotiated in advance but right after getting into cab I ask if they are willing to go to NJ (some don't) and confirm a price beforehand.

Anne McDonough: By advance I don't mean you have to call a cab ahead of time and arrange for them to pick you up, just once you're in the cab, before the trip starts you have to negotiate the fare. It looks like you have better bargaining skills than I do!

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Re: Passport: I was briefly stopped reentering this country because of my passport and I was told I am dead. To this day, I am not certain what the problem was. An employee later told me there are ten digit numbers and that someone who is deceased had a ten digit number close to my social security number is deceased and that they had figured out the mistake. I was not aware there are ten digit social security numbers, so I asked once and was told they are reserved for certain foreigners.

Gary Lee: Hey, we're delighted to hear that the agent was wrong that time. Cute story. Puts you in the running for the prize.

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Getting to Burlington: Doesn't Southwest go to Burlington?

Carol Sottili: Nope.

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Falls Church, Va: Question about small town holidays.

I was wondering if you guys felt like any of the small towns (particularly those along the blue ridge) had a nice fourth of July celbration. We were thinking about going west for a few days of hiking and wine tasting, but still wanted to celebrate on the actual fourth.

thanks

John Deiner: Hey, Falls. It's been a while, but my understanding is that Washington, Va., aka Li'l Washington, has a really sweet oldtime Fourth of July celebration, and it's right where you want it to be. Anyone ever been?

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Washington, D.C.: Another passport question. When your passport expires, you have to send it the old one in order for the new one to be processed. My passport expires in late 2008, but I travel to countries that want at least 6 months of validity left.

The problem is that I travel frequently for work, often at short notice. If i have to send my passport away for six months, how am I supposed to do my job?

And another question--have you ever heard of anyone getting extra pages added TWICE? I've already had it done once, but only have a few pages left, and am anticipating some travel to stamp-loving countries in the next few months, should I just get a new passport now? Or can they add more pages for me?

KC Summers: I would pay a commercial expediter from the get-go -- do NOT apply yourself and then change your mind, because most expediters won't take your case if your application is already in the system. These expediters work very well, although even they are backed up now -- but nowhere near like the State Dept. is. It's worth the money.

I've never known anyone getting pages added twice. Show-off! Again, since you have to give it up anyway, I'd just get a new passport at this point.

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Central Cal: One of my dream destinations is the isle of Santorini. Cruise ships seem to stop there for a cup 'o coffee. I need to see the digs at Thera in particular. If anyone has been to Santorini, how many days do you think is needed. I'm not a sit around and read a book on the beach type, I'm sure this will not be my only stop in the Med. Any help or tips would be appreciated.

Gary Lee: I found that two days was a good length of time to tour the main sights. You can arrange a ferry trip there on your own from Athens. If you go it would be great to include some of the lesser known islands (naxos, syros, etc) to give you a point of comparison.

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Re:FUBAR:= F@#-ed up beyond all recognition.

KC Summers: Ah, I guessed right.

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Washington, D.C.: I'm traveling to Mexico in December, and just double-checked my passport - it expires in March 2008. Is Mexico one of the countries that requires a passport to be valid 3 or 6 months after entry, or will I be OK using a passport that will expire 3 months after my visit? Normally I'd just renew it before I go, but given the delays, I don't want to get caught in the backlog.

Andrea Sachs: Mexico does not require a passport--"In accordance with dispositions by the National Immigration Institute, in order to enter Mexico US citizens should show any US official ID. Passports are not required." (That info is from the Mexican consulate.) The passport is required to return to the States, so the expiration date does not matter.

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response to centreville: I don't think you need to declare it if you're not carrying it.

If customs wants to assess a duty on it when it's being delivered to you, they won't go looking for your airport forms to see if you have already declared it. Instead, you will have to pay your shipper (i.e., UPS or FedEx) before it will release the package to you, and the shipper won't care a bit about whether you paid customs at the airport. That leaves you with having to pay twice and try to get a refund from customs . . .

Gary Lee: Interesting point; much thanks.

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Suitland, MD: Has anyone else been noticing flight itineraries with really, really short layovers? While looking for a BWI-Salt Lake City flight, Travelocity offered flights with 30 minute (thru Cleveland, on Northwest) and 35 minute (thru Atlanta, on Delta; this one was on Delta.com, too) connect times. I can't find it now, but I'm sure I also saw a flight with a 25 minute layover.

I wonder whether these connections could be made if both planes were on time. Why are airlines offering these schedules?

Carol Sottili: I've noticed that also. I would never book a flight with a layover of less than 45 minutes, unless I could figure out in advance that the airline used the same terminal for those flights. As for BWI-Salt Lake City, try www.southwest.com - occasional sales, nonstop service.

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Washington DC: I work at the State Department. This morning an email was sent to all State Dept. staff asking for volunteers to work on the passport backlog. I guess they're serious about this, considering the only other volunteer request I've seen in 4 years here was for people to staff the Baghdad embassy...

Gary Lee: Thanks for letting us know that.

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Dewey Beach Weekend?: Is it too late to book a long weekend in Dewey? Also, I've never been to Dewey, I'm looking to book something for under a grand for the whole weekend. I have no idea where to start looking, or where not to look. Is there a strip of frat houses I should avoid?

Thanks!

Gary Lee: Again, Dewey is not a beach that we know well. Surely someone out there does know it and can offer some tips. Do share!

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Passport renewal: Hi Flight Crew! I hope you can answer my question. I have recently noticed all the news about passport requirements and read about traveler woes in your discussions. My passport doesn't expire until Mar 2008. I heard that you need to renew your passport 6 months in advance of it expiring. Is this still the case? I can't find that information anywhere.

Also, I am going to Jamaica Sept 21-24th. Will my passport still be good or should I get it renewed before I go?

Thank you!

Andrea Sachs: I have not heard that six-month rule, perhaps you are thinking of this one: "Some countries require that your passport be valid at least six months beyond the dates of your trip." If your passport expires in March 2008, you are valid for a September '07 trip.

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Anywhere but Delaware: Drivers -- my guess is that I-95 through Delaware is going to be bad all summer. You need to get creative and read a few maps (printed or online) for points between NJ/PA and MD/DC. There are other routes that will get you through. More miles? Yes. But probably less stress. US Highways 1, 40, and 301 all get you into the Balto/DC area.

John Deiner: It's definitely going to be bad all summer. The construction up there is going to last a while (new lanes), but it's that *&^%$ toll plaza that gums up the works. Thanks for the suggestions.

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Foggy Bottom, DC: This morning the State Dept. sent out an all-hands notice calling for volunteers to help adjudicate passport applications:

"Volunteers Needed to Eliminate Passport Backlog

The Department of State is experiencing unprecedented increases in the demand for U.S. passports and an extraordinary response is needed. Meeting our responsibility to American citizens is a priority for the entire Department. We have pledged to eliminate the backlog of passport applications in the next few months, and this will require a much greater commitment of resources than CA -Consular Affairs] has available. At the moment, there are approximately three million pending passport applications. I am therefore asking that personnel throughout the Department volunteer to assist in passport adjudication and processing.

Foreign Service officers and specialists, as well as Civil Service employees, who have had consular training or a consular assignment, are urgently needed to adjudicate passports. CA will provide refresher adjudication training to anyone who needs or wants it. Any and all other cleared, direct-hire State Department employees are asked to assist with customer service work: answering phones, helping receive applications at the counter, scanning documents, and handling other clerical tasks so trained adjudicators can focus on making the important citizenship and identity determinations. CA will provide training as needed to these individuals as well to familiarize them with passport systems and procedures."

Carol Sottili: Post columnist Al Kamen wrote about this on June 20. I'll send the link shortly.

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Washington, DC: I really need your advice because I've broken my foot and been forced to cancel my vacation plans this summer. I would, however, like any suggestions you might have for fun non-mobile long weekend sort of vacations. I can get around, just not easily. I normally like outdoor activities but obviously I can't hike or get my foot wet.

KC Summers: Wash, you're a prime candidate for my favorite kind of vacation, which is to find a beautiful spot, set up an Adirondack chair or hammock in front of the view, get requisite cold drink and good book, and hunker down. Maryland's Eastern Shore would be a great place for this -- stay at the Inn at Perry Cabin in St. Michaels and they'll provide all the rest (they even have a nice little library for guests). There's a very nice restaurant on site too, or you could hobble into town and try the wonderful 208 Talbot.

Or consider Deep Creek Lake, or even a beach town (you don't have to go in the water). Or Cape Cod. Ahhhh.....

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Alexandria, Va: Is there a user friendly and cost effective way to travel from Alexandria to either Camden Yards or downtown Annapolis by train, plane or bus (not auto) for a visit this summer?

Thanks for your help.

Gary Lee: You can take the Marc train from Union Station to just near Camden Yards. You can also take a Greyhound bus from the DC bus station to Annapolis. You can get to either Union Station or the bus station easily by Metro. Both are at or near Red Line stops.

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Washington, DC: This passport situation exists only because North American travelers have decided to procrastinate. A passport is a document ALL Americans should possess, just like a driver's license, birth certificate, or social security card. US residents that don't have a passport only have themselves to blame for the processing delays! I have no pity for these people, and failure to keep your passport current is ridiculous. I'm tired of hearing these sob stories, and wish these stories were a little harsher on the people that chose to wait too long to get their documents processed. These complainers should move to Europe and see what happens to them when they try to travel a couple of hundred miles across a border without documents.

Andrea Sachs: I have to disagree, and agree. Yes, some people procrastinate, but others really did follow the rules and applied for a passport in spring and have not yet received their passports. Simply, the agency is overwhelmed. I don't think you can group everyone in the Lazy Traveler category.

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Ballston, VA: There's a really awesome Peruvian restaurant across the street from LaGuardia. Other than that, there isn't much! Unless you count the Dunkin' Donuts on the highway...

Gary Lee: That's a good tip for starters since we love Peruvian food. Any other tips out there?

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Worrying Parents: Standing at the Pittsburgh airport at 1:00 Friday monring I was watching a man pace back and forth, check his watch, look at all information screens in the baggage claim area and generally looking distressed. I asked if he was ok and he said he was worried about his daughter who was travelling from Croatia and her plane was very late. I learned she connected through Dulles, was on the same plane as my husband which I knew from his call had landed but was waiting for a gate agent to open the door to the plane. The plane had already been delayed many hours and the online information was incorrect throughout the day. Eventually someone showed up and opened the door abut 30 minutes and finally the passangers came into the baggage area. The kid oblivious to dad's worry seemed astonished by the teary hug from dad but as a mom I was teary watching them. It seems to me that it would be very helpful to have arrival information in the baggage claim areas. Now that no one can go to the gate to find their loved one keeping people informed where they are seems courteous and logical. And I am not looking forward to the time in my kids' lives when they can be so far away from me. I thought the bus to kindergarten was a big deal.

Gary Lee: That's a nice anecdote. Thanks for sharing that moment with us.

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For Centerville and Customs: The form we fill out for things brought into the country specifies that we list what we have with us. Anything sent from overseas does not count towards your duty free limit. Ask that the goods be sent to friends/relatives and specify they are a gift (prime your friends/relatives first). Try to keep the value of the parcel below $50 and you should be able to get it without paying duty on this side.

Gary Lee: I appeciate your suggestion. Thanks.

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Herndon, VA: Another passport question...My passport expires summer of 08 and I've already begun the renewal paperwork. However, I know I'll have to make at least three international trips between now and next summer. I seem to remember a provision in the new passport regulations about travelling within 6 months of the expiration date of your passport. Was I dreaming this? Or should I go ahead and expedite my renewal even though I'm a year away from expiring?

Thanks!

Andrea Sachs: Some countries--but not all--require passport expiration dates to not exceed six months. Check with the country's consulate for specifics. Best to renew when you can.

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Haymarket, VA: Husband and I are planning a driving trip out west this summer. It looks like the cheapest airfare option is in and out of Denvier. We have 2 weeks and are definitley planning on Mt. Rushmore and Jackson Hole, WY.

We won't be hiking or biking or any other active activities due to physical limitations - so we're looking for sights that are easily accessible or scenic routes.

Do you have other suggestions - or links to any website that might have suggested routes/destinations? Yellowstone, Glacier NP look like strong possibilites as we don't know when we would be back in the area....but are they worth it if we can't hike/bike?

Carol Sottili: Yellowstone would be a good choice. There are lots of sites you can see from your car, or from accessible walkways. Grand Tetons is more activity oriented. Jackson itself is a neat town. Anyone else have ideas?

You realize how much driving you're considering here, right? At least 23 hours just to do the triangle between Denver, Mount Rushmore and Jackson.

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washingtonpost.com: Al Kamen's column on passport office situation, (June 20, 2007)

Carol Sottili: Here's the link from Kamen's column.

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Bethesda Mom: Greetings Travel Gurus:

I was thinking of traveling to an all-inclusive resort with my husband & 2 teens in August--it's not our usual sort of travel, but I've had a tough year and just want to relax. Do you have any recommendations for the west coast of Mexico, or any other location that would out of hurricane range? I'm reluctant to go to the Carribean or Mayan Riviera due to fear of hurricanes that time of year.

KC Summers: I just typed "all-inclusive resorts puerta vallarta" and got 574,000 hits. Not very helpful, I realize, but it's a starting point for you to pick some names and cross-check them on TripAdvisor. Sol Melia is a big player. You can also go to Expedia or some such and see what kind of packages they offer. Or, we can ask the chatters for their suggestions. Chatters?

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Help! Pneumonia! Cancellation?: Hi, Crew. My husband and I are supposed to be flying to Spain on Iberia this afternoon but instead am nursing my husband through a sudden case of pneumonia -- no warning whatsoever -- that was diagnosed just today. Is there anything at all I can do, do you think, to get the airline to allow us to get credit for any meaningful portion of our nonrefundable airfares for travel on a later date, given the circumstances? Are the every sympathetic to things like medical records or letters from docs? We hope to reschedule for sometime this summer.

Carol Sottili: Call them now, before the flight leaves. And plead your case. They may allow you to reschedule for a steep fee, but I'm not sure about that particular airline's policies.

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Washington, DC: Hello! I am leaving at the end of July for a cruise and am concerned that my passport will not arrive in time (no surprise!) The boat will be stopping in Mexico, Belize and the Bahamas. I believe that I will be fine in Mexico and the Bahamas with just my birth certificate, but do you know whether Belize requires cruise passengers to show a passport? I am finding conflicting information. Thank you!

KC Summers: The State Department says:

ENTRY/EXIT REQUIREMENTS: All U.S. citizens must have a U.S. passport valid for the duration of their visit to Belize.

For more info: http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1055.html

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Derwood, MD: My wife and I have been enviously reading these chats for years, but now have carefully saved and budgeted to celebrate our 40th anniversary with a 17 day tour of Scandinavia. The weak dollar makes things a bit more challenging, but we're confident we're up to the challenge.

Or were, until our tour documents "suggest" tipping our tour guide $5 a day per person, the bus driver $3 a day per person, local guides a couple dollars per person, local drivers the same. Surely that can't be right! Are they simply aiming high, hoping to get half that? We had planned on maybe $10 or at most $20 apiece for the entire tour!

There are 52 people on the tour, so this would equate to $250 a day for the guide and 4150 a day for the driver, on top of what they are already paid and the benefits they get from guiding groups to certain stores and restaurants, etc. We're thinking our kids chose the wrong vocation . . . can you help? Thanks.

John Deiner: Hey, Derwood. Tipping is a tricky business. By no means are you tied to the recommendation that the company gives you, nor do you have to give anyone a tip that you don't want to. That said, giving a guide $10 for 17 days of service is just plain cheap, unless he does a terrible job or the bus smacks into a wall. This person could become a dear friend in that amount of time, rescue you and you wife from some awkward situations or just generally provide you with a trip you may never forget.

In addition, the guide/bus driver/etc. are probably barely paid and are counting on the tips for their salary. I'd chat up the fellow guests and see how what they're thinking about; I've done that in the past when I was surprised by the amount of "suggested tipping" and have found that I'm not alone. But I'd never give anybody the equivalent of about 60 cents a day for leading me around.

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Ward One Can Be Okay, DC - Passport Fair:

Dear Friends:

Need a passport? A passport fair will be held at the Kalorama Post Office, 2300 18 th St, NW next Saturday, June 30 from 2pm-6pm.

Please be sure to bring:

- Passport application (available at the event)

- Proof of citizenship (Birth Certificate, Naturalization Certificate, etc)

- Proof of identity (Driver's License, Military I.D.)

- Two identical color passport photos (available at the event for $15)

- Passport fees

Passport fees will be:

- Adults (16 and over): $97 or $112

This includes separate payments of $30 or $45 if photos are taken by the U.S. Postal Service and $67 to the Dept. of State.

- Children (15 and under): $82 or $97

This includes separate payments of $30 or $45 if photos are taken by the U.S. Postal Service and $52 to the Dept. of State.

- Expedited service is an additional $60 to the Dept. of State and $16.25 to the U.S. Postal Service

-The Dept. of State fees must be paid by check or money order

Bests,

Councilmember Jim Graham

--

Andrea Sachs: Why thank you, Councilman, for the info. We shall post it proudly.

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DE Turnpike: I was stuck last weekend (June 17)- going North. About halfway through Cecil County we slowed way down and did stop and go to the DE tolls. Once through, it backed up (as it always does) at Exit 4/Christiana Mall all the way through the tolls to the split for the Del Mem Bridge. The Southbound traffic was backed up from the MD-DE line practically to the Del Mem bridge. It was about 4PM on Sunday-- peak travel time (but unavoidable). It seems like waiting for the 279 exit is too late, so I propose: Getting off 95 at Rt 272 to Northeast and then hopping on Rt 40 and into DE. Rt 40 to Rt 13, pass the airport, and back onto 95/295 just in time for the Del Mem bridge. Sure they're stop lights on Rt 40, but just about anything is better than that stretch of 95.

John Deiner: Great stuff. We're going to have to look into this further, as it's only going to get worse before it gets better. (And it doesn't seem like high gas prices are keeping motorists away, does it?!)

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Arlington, VA: I loved the Jersey Shore piece that ran in Sunday's paper. Ocean Grove is one of my favorite places!

Later this summer I plan to take a 3-day vacation, somewhere that is easy to get to between DC and Boston. We're two 30-ish gals who are looking for more than a regular weekend at the beach, but having trouble coming up with a great idea. We're considering Saratoga Springs, NY, Annapolis, or Rhode Island. What's the one relatively close-to-home trip you've always wanted to take but haven't had the opportunity? Maybe you'll spark a great idea for us...? Thanks!

Gary Lee: Here are our unfulfilled nearby fantasy trips: Abington, Va. (KC); Cape Cod (Anne; Buddhist Retreat in Pennsylvania (Andrea); The Tides Inn (John); Duck, NC (Gary.)

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Seoul Korea: We're planning a trip to Korea in October, and hope to spend a significant amount of time exploring the countryside by bike. What kind of weather should we anticipate? All the websites I can find say "Summer = hot. Winter = cold" but have little to say about fall.

KC Summers: According to Weather.com's travel planner, October in Seoul has highs of 66 degrees F, lows of 51. Sounds good to me. They didn't have stats on precipation, except to say that January is the driest (and coolest) month. Hope this helps a little.

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Arlington, VA: Hi guys! I am going to Turkey in August, via AirFrance with a stopover in Paris. A few years ago, when I was flying home from London (on British Airways), I noticed that they closed the gate very early - luckily my travelling companion noticed and we got through the gate before it closed. Do flights in Paris do the same thing? I don't want to miss my connection to Istanbul!

Gary Lee: The best thing is to get to the gate as early as possible. If an airline knows that a passenger is reserved on a flight, they should no close the gates early if the passenger hasn't arrived.

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Ashburn, VA: I'll be in LA for a few days in mid-July and have time for a day long roadtrip. I was hoping to drive down to Palm Springs for the day and perhaps stay overnight. Can you recommend any scenic routes to take? Or are there other daytrips that would be doable from the LA area?

I'm just looking for a great drive and some beautiful desert scenery.

Also, any ideas if there are cheap motels around the palm springs area? everything i've checked seems around $199 and i'd like to say overnight for cheaper.

Thanks so much for your help!

Carol Sottili: It's going to be very hot in Palm Springs in July. Average daily temp is 107 degrees. And don't tell me it's a dry heat. Hotels are much cheaper in summer. Look at www.palm-springs.org for ideas. I'd go to the shore instead. Take a look at Laguna Beach. Go to www.lagunabeachinfo.com.

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Dewey Beach: DON'T go to Dewey for a holiday weekend if you are expecting a relaxed, low-key time. Dewey is crazy-busy most summer weekends anyway, and holidays are that much worse. If you're looking for good restaurants, a variety of activities, and less of a frat-party atmosphere, stick with Rehoboth. The hotels in Dewey are pretty crummy anyway. If you can't weasel an invite to stay in someone's house for the weekend (a much more conomical and fun option for a first-timer anyway!), then stay in Rehoboth and take the Jolly Trolley over to Dewey on Saturday or Sunday night.

If you absolutely MUST stay in Dewey...the Best Western Gold Leaf is OK, but will have a 3 or 4 night minimum for the holiday weekend, as will all of the other hotels in town.

Gary Lee: We appreciate your perspective. But isn't Reboboth also mobbed on holiday weekends?

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Fairfax, Va.: Driving down south via the Outer Banks - would you know the quickest way to get from Ocracoke Island to I-95 South?

John Deiner: Gee, Fairfax, looks as if there is no quick way. You could take a ferry east to the mainland or farther south and plod your way back to 95. Or just do an about-face and go back to 64 west near Nags Head. A nice drive, but not fast!

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Passport help: Does anyone know the info to apply to help the State Department out? Sounds like a good way for some extra summer cash if the locations are convenient. I didn't see anything on the state.gov site - thanks!

Andrea Sachs: I think they are recruiting within the department for passport help--but how generous of you to offer. However, if you want to apply for a job at the agency, check out www.state.gov/careers.

Otherwise, you could hand out water and sing silly songs to the people waiting in line.

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Anonymous: Yes, you are subject to customs duties on items sent to you, though a certain value is exempt for personal items, as I recall. And Southwest flies to Manchester, NH. A long walk from Burlington, I guess.

Gary Lee: The Manchester airport is not really near enough for a weekend trip to Burlington.

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Getting to NY from DC: To those travelers who don't want to travel 95 to get to NYC, I have a route that goes through PA. It takes slightly longer but the delays aren't as bad and the tolls are only a few bucks vs spending $20 gonig up 95.

I'll take 695 to 83N to 81 and 78. This leads to the PA turnpike which gets you on the NJ turnpike but just before the GW bridge. You avoid a lot of the NJ traffic and its cheaper. I love it!

John Deiner: Nice, but then you'll avoid the joy that is the New Jersey Turnpike. Great stuff...many thanks for sharing.

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Washington, DC: Hello Travel Crew:

I would like to clarify something you said in an earlier chat about compensation when bumped from a flight. My children and I have tickets to Beijing in August from Dulles (direct flight). The plane is full, If we get bumped, and can't get to Beijing within 4 hours of our original arrival time, will United give us each $400 and book us on another flight that will get there sometime the same day? Can they give us $400 and book us on a flight leaving the next day or two or three days later?

Carol Sottili: I don't there is any set-in-stone amount that they'd offer. It has to do with how badly they want to get volunteers. Airlines usually start as cheaply as possible hoping to get someone to bite, but then they increase the offer if no one responds.

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Gary Lee: Thanks all ye clicksters for good questions. We liked the anecdote from the person who went through passport control only to be told she was dead. You get the prize.

Please send your mailing address to me at leeg@washpost.com and I will make sure you get it!

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