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Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Food Critic
Wednesday, August 1, 2007; 11:00 AM

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. You can access his Postcards from Tom to read his recommendations for other cities, read his dining column, First Bite and the Dish or read transcripts of previous "Ask Tom" chats. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

The transcript follows.

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Washington, D.C.: Had dinner at Firefly last night. The ambiance was lovely and the service was excellent. I enjoyed the food, but my date felt that the portions were a bit skimpy.

Here's my question: why do restaurants value presentation over practicality? The soft-shelled crab I ordered arrived in a tall bowl. Sure, it looked pretty, but it's difficult and annoying to dig into a narrow, tall bowl with a knife and fork.

I did eventually ask the waitress to bring the food back on a plate, which was so much easier to manage

So, a word to restaurants: most people dine out for a nice meal, not to enhance their high-level motor skills. Please present food in a way in which it can be easily eaten.

Tom Sietsema: I'm a firm believer in staff testing out the dining experience before actual patrons do. That includes sitting in chairs, drinking from glasses, listening to the soundtrack -- and tackling the food as the chef hopes to offer it. Just think how many problems would be solved before they became problems!

It feels good to be back in the saddle again. I had to attend to a family emergency last week that prevented me from hosting the July 25 chat. Thanks for your patience and understanding.

On with da show!

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Washington, D.C.: Tom, long-time admirer, first-time questioner. We were at dinner last Friday at a DC Italian place we chose largely on the basis of your positive review. Two tables away from us was a party of three, including one woman who was obviously inebriated. She was loud and obnoxious throughout the meal, to our great discomfort, but she continued to be served alcohol (to our observation). This was uncomfortable enough, but the kicker was when my dining companion asked, "Do you smell something?" Sure enough, the woman had vomited. The stench was unmistakable and unbearable. She and her party left, and several servers went to the table to try to clean up the damage.

At no point throughout or after all this did anyone from the restaurant come by to say anything--either an explanation or (we hoped) an apology for what had happened. I know you're supposed to bring a complaint to the manager's attention, but we were so disgusted--physically--we just wanted to get the check and get out of there (we were in the middle of dessert when the stench hit us). And we didn't even know if the restaurant had a responsibility to say anything to other diners for what another diner did.

So my question to you is: under these circumstances, should someone from the restaurant have at least come by and said -something- to us, instead of just pretending like nothing happened? (It was perfectly clear to everyone in the vicinity what had happened, by the way.) We were very disappointed that nobody bothered to say anything. We would have at least appreciated the thought, even if maybe it wasn't their fault (although given the provision of alcohol, I think it partially was). What do you think?

Tom Sietsema: I think the host or manager should have apologized profusely to all the diners around the inebriated woman and removed from the check those dishes that were served or being eaten as the stench hit. And if what you're telling me is what happened -- alcohol continued to flow despite the diner's obvious intoxicated state -- I think the staff at the unnamed restaurant needs a lesson in how to deal with over-served customers, pronto.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom, I enjoy the chats but don't think I've seen anyone ask you where to go for veal cheek in this area. In June I had the pleasure of five-course meal at Eleven in Pittsburgh's Strip District, and memories of the veal cheak appetizer there make me close my eyes and smile with pleasure. Would love to replicate that experience. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: You'll want to call ahead to confirm their presence, but I've had delicious veal cheeks at David Craig in Bethesda (where the braised meat was paired with a diver scallop and tomato polenta) and the carryout below Petit Plats in Woodley Park, Petit Plats to Go, which at one time offered veal cheeks with potato gratin and roasted tomato.

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Kudos for Good Service: In response to the many tales of inferior service at our city's top spots, I wanted to share a four star dining experience during a recent dinner at Blacksalt to celebrate my husband's birthday. When the hostess called to confirm the reservation, I mentioned the birthday and requested a quiet table. We arrived a bit early but were shown immediately to a small table set aside from the rest of the room. Upon opening our menus, we found a personalized "happy birthday" message printed on the top and or waiter appeared promptly to welcome us.

After ordering cocktails, we asked our waiter, Abdul, for guidance on the fresh oyster selection, which he dispensed with great detail. Our selections mirrored his descriptions perfectly and were a great start to the meal. We proceeded to order a few small plates and appetizers, as well as our entrees. Abdul inquired whether we were in any sort of rush, and when we said no, he invited us to enjoy the "extended" presentation, which involved each plate arriving separately, paced perfectly for a leisurely dining experience. A highlight was the bay scallop appetizer he recommended, which consisted of a tender seared scallop presented alongside a pillowy foie gras-stuffed ravioli and a scattering of morel mushrooms. Throughout the meal Abdul checked in on us unassumingly, appearing just in time to answer a question or fill a wine or water glass without "hovering" or in any way intruding on our privacy. The icing on the proverbial birthday cake was the candle and birthday greeting that appeared alongside my husband's dessert order. The evening was truly luxurious and the restaurant and our waiter went out of their way to ensure our special occasion was indeed "special."

I think it is important to share positive experiences and give credit where it is due. Thanks for letting me share some well-deserved praise.

Tom Sietsema: Thank YOU for taking the time to share your glowing review. Owner Jeff Black -- and Abdul -- must be smiling as they read this.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom - Just wanted to give some props to Proof. We went on Saturday, and they managed to turn what could have been a very negative first impression into a great night.

We had an 8:30 reservation. My husband and I arrived at 8 and let the hostess know we'd be having a drink at the bar. The rest of our party arrived over the next 20 minutes. I checked back in at 8:30 but our table wasn't ready. Same thing at 8:45. By 9 we were antsy and hungry, and the owner came over to apologize for the wait. We asked if he could politely invite the party to enjoy a drink at the bar so we could sit down (they had long finished their meal and had already paid), but he said there wasn't space at the bar to move them to (which was true, although we were all crowded in there instead). At around 9:15, the owner came by again and promised that he'd have food waiting for us as soon as we sat down and would make sure we were taken care of.

At 9:30, we were finally seated. As promised, there was a lovely charcuterie board waiting for us, and the sommelier and server both came right over, greeted us and apologized again for the wait. From there, our whole evening changed for the better. We ordered the tasting menu and wine pairings and really enjoyed it. Some courses were better than others - hamachi crudo, sablefish and sticky toffee pudding were outstanding, while heirloom tomatoes, hanger steak and the cheese course were good but not fantastic. I also found the pacing to be slightly off - we had several long waits between courses, and at least once the wine was served so far in advance that I had finished mine by the time the course arrived.

However, the staff really took great pains to give us excellent service (although hopefully they treat everyone just as well!), and at the end of the night the owner sent over a wonderful bottle of Sauternes to cap off the meal.

All in all, it was a great evening despite the hour-long delay, and Proof did a really nice job of making up for our wait. Sebastian is a fantastic sommelier, and our server was excellent as well (wish I could remember his name!). I expected great wine at Proof, but I was pleasantly surprised by how good the food was too. We'll definitely be looking forward to a return trip, and thanks to Proof for making sure our night turned out so well!

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for sharing your experience with us. I think the wiser course of action would have been for the staff to produce the charcuterie at the bar, before you were seated, but the after-dinner sauternes was a nice touch.

washingtonpost.com: The Dish on Proof.

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The Birthday Girl, D.C.: Tom,

I am so excited that today is your live chat! I look forward to it all week. I am particularly excited because today is also My Birthday!! Now, as a "Tom Sietsema Groupie" I had to get your opinion for the birthday dinner my sister and I are treating ourselves to tonight. We have dinner reservations at RAMMY winner Rasika, and I was wondering if the tasting menus were worth the price? OR should I mix and match their many yummy dishes on my own? I have limited knowledge of Indian food (except that I love it), so are there any recommendations for my special night? Thanks so much for all your hard work! If you have time to take my question it would be the ultimate birthday present!

Tom Sietsema: Happy birthday! Your wish is my command.

Some of my favorite dishes at Rasika include the fried baby spinach salad; scallops on red pepper sauce; herbed chicken kebab; duck in a velvety sauce of cashews and saffron; the different breads ... really, it's hard to go wrong ordering there.

I'm not a huge fan of tasting menus (too much food stretched over too much time), but most chefs feature their best efforts in that format, so why not take the plunge?

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Arlington, Va.: Tom:

I was dining at a restaurant in Arlington recently with my wife and 2 1/2 year-old son. Toward the last half of the meal, we pulled out his small, portable DVD player with headphones and let him watch Elmo so that we wouldn't have to spend the rest of the meal chasing him through the restaurant. He sat there watching his DVD and didn't make a sound for the last 45 minutes of our meal. At the end of our meal, a couple got up from a few tables away and said to us, in a very nasty tone, that they would never have been so rude as to let someone watch TV in their day. We were a bit surprised and said nothing as they walked away. Is this truly rude behavior? The restaurant was fairly causual, if that makes a difference.

Tom Sietsema: I'd choose a (small, right?) DVD player over a kid running through a restaurant any day of the week. But the situation makes me think back to my own childhood, when my parents taught us to use restaurant voices, mind our manners and participate in the activity at hand (eating, conversing). In the future, a coloring book might be preferable to a DVD. Thoughts, anyone?

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Goings on in Capitol Hill:: Why, oh why, Tom won't you pay attention to what's going on in Capitol Hill, in particular the Eastern Market/8th Street area, where in the past three months two brand new restaurants have opened (Laconda, Jordan's), one is under underway (where Ellingston's on 8th closed) and apparently where Matchbox is set to open a new branch?

Tom Sietsema: I do, and I have! You must have missed my preview of Locanda last Wednesday.

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Falls Church, Va.: Just to be clear, when you refer to "veal cheeks," do those come from the calf's face or from ... ahem ... the nether "cheeks"?

Tom Sietsema: Face cheeks.

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Alexandria, Va.: Is it now considered fashionable to iron table linens while patrons are dining? I recently went to Restaurant Eve and witnessed "ironing"at nearby tables several times during the course of the evening. After spending several hundred dollars and waiting almost a month for a Sat. night table,I would prefer not to watch this activity tableside

Tom Sietsema: I kind of like that bit of house-keeping myself. But you are not the only patron to write in and wonder about the practice. Here's the scoop:

washingtonpost.com: Ask Tom: Pressing Linens at Restaurant Eve.

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Old Town, Alexandria, Va.: Tom -- Every year I try a new (to me) place for Restaurant Week, and because I'm a vegetarian it actually costs MORE to do the $30 price-fix deal than it would have to get the uninspiring veggie plate or pasta medley. Where should I go to get my money's worth, to put it bluntly? I'm thinking Il Mulino or Taberna del Alabardero.

Tom Sietsema: Obviously you didn't read my take on Il Mulino! Of the two restaurants, Taberna del Alabarder is by far the more attractive and delicious.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Il Mulino and Taberna del Alabardero.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom,

I am curious as to who retains rights to a recipe or menu when a Chef moves on to another restaurant. Although one would expect the new chef to revamp the menu, does he get to keep the favorites from the last chef or does the new chef taken them with him?

Tom Sietsema: I'd think a new chef would want to put his own stamp on a menu. But sometimes there are dishes that are so popular, a restaurant holds on to them, even if their creators have moved on, because regular diners insist on being able to order them. The black bean pate at New Heights is one such example of a dish that lives on (and on and on), no matter who's cooking there.

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DVD at a restaurant: I have a five-year-old who has been going to restaurants all his life. We always make sure to bring an erasable slate, or a quiet game or book for him whenever we go out. This allows us to continue to interact with him without interfering too much in the adult conversation. On occasion, I have read to him after dinner. We also make a point of teaching him proper restaurant manners. We get lots of compliments for his behavior (especially for our use of books) in restaurants. The few times he has acted out, we leave the restaurant, either briefly until he can behave properly, or completely if he can't. I wouldn't use a DVD player just because I don't like them in general -- I think they are creating a generation of passive couch potatoes, and I would worry about disturbing other patrons. If we want a nice dinner out and want only adult conversation, we get a babysitter (although this happens rarely.)

Tom Sietsema: You're my kind of parents (and diners)!

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Pizza Soup: Hey Tom - longtime lurker, first time writer. After reading the Dish last week, I was so excited to try the pizza at Bebo. My husband and I have long followed Roberto even though the service at his places is usually less than medicore. We'd been to Bebo before and loved the food (that's it), and were anxious to try the pizza. In fact, we were elated when we arrived on Friday night, the Chef himself was manning the pizza oven. I ordered the Margarita w/ spinach and mushrooms and what came out was pizza soup. It appeared as if I needed a spoon. When I finally got the waiter's attention, I pointed out the water/oil substance sloshing all around the plate and he informed me it was b/c there was Buffalo moz on the pie. I said I'd had plenty of pizzas with that kind of cheese and it didn't come out as soup. In addition the crust was chewey and gummy - it couldn't be cut w/ a knife, torn, or chewed. I tried. I asked him to take it back and just take it off our bill, I didn't want a replacement b/c he was arguing with me that that's the way it was supposed to be. He finally took the plate, and then the manager came over w/ the plate in hand and said, "what is wrong with this?" (waiving it in front of me as liquid was dripping and spilling) and I explained. He then informed me it was fine, and proceeded to try to rip a piece of the crust and eat it in front of me, but it was an ill-fated demonstration because the crust wouldn't rip and liquid was everywhere. I finally said, "I just don't want it." And he said, "well if that's the case, then ok." I didn't want anything free, I didn't expect anything other than what I had thought I ordered. I just write to get the word out to Roberto to put product out that his reputation deserves and to inform him of what his staff is doing out in the "field." There were many other service issues, but I won't take anymore of your time. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Yikes! The manager got into a debate with you, at the table?

As I pointed out in my Dish item last week, Roberto himself was manning the pizza oven when I dropped in for a pie. I had mozzarella on the crust, but it wasn't the least bit soupy. Sounds like there might be a consistency problem ....

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

Can you please help me out with finding a great Brasilian meathouse in this area? Not some chain like Fogo de Chao, but a real mom and pop kind of place, where you can get unlimited meat of the highest quality. There seem to be a number of them in Manhattan, but I haven't found anything comparable in DC. Price is not an issue...

Tom Sietsema: Actually, Fogo de Chao is probably the best in class here. I prefer it over competition in Virgnia and Maryland.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Fogo de Chao.

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New restaurant questions: Hi Tom:

Usually when I go to a new restaurant, I ask the waiter to please explain the menu to me, hoping to hear recommendations, specials, etc. that I might not know from just reading the menu.

I was at Central last week for lunch, and I asked the waiter to explain the menu to my group. He replied, "what's the explain? salads, sandwiches, entrees." I was taken aback by his response and rather intimidated to say anything else. How would you have responded?

Tom Sietsema: Maybe the more helpful (for the waiter) question is "Are there any dishes that best reflect the chef's work, any dishes that we shouldn't miss?"

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Washington, D.C.: Mom to a 3.5 year old here. My son has been going out to eat with us since he was an infant. I have one special bag that goes with us each time. I update the sticker books, magnet books, coloring pads, etc.. in it all the time. He never sees those items unless we are at a restaurant. I have to say I would not let me son watch a DVD player in a restaurant. If the only other option was that he would be running around the place, then he probably isn't ready to be there. I am not sure my son would have learned to be quiet (the quote "others are around us and don't want to hear your loud voice" having been said his whole short life) and respectful if we were parenting by the DVD. Plus by not being babsat by the DVD, he joins in our conversations at dinner when coloring. We like meal time to be about family time. Plus those seated near you don't need the distraction.

Tom Sietsema: Yeah, I'm thinking the glare/animation might be distracting for neighbors ... then again, we're talking CASUAL here, not fancy.

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Rockville, Md.: Posting early because of a meeting...

I just had to share a dining experience that my husband and I had at Bebo this weekend. After the terrible weather causing havoc and eventual cancellation of his flight out of Reagan, I decided the only way to enjoy this lousy and frustrating night was for us to have a nice meal together. Having never been to Bebo, but being fans of Galileo, I took a chance that the bad weather would cause some cancellations and an opportunity for us to walk in to dinner.

Well, we were able to be seated immediately...and that was when the fun began.

Our waiters (yes, plural, as they didn't seem to know who was working what, where, or when!) were extremely nice, even if seemingly lost in their own restaurant. Since we had spent all of our frustration and energy at the airport, we really just settled in with a glass of wine and enjoyed the show. And what a show...We were surrounded by tables of people at different degrees of discontent. One man was screaming that he was tired of waiting half an hour for change after having waited half an hour for water that never came. The waiter sent him water, but no change, and I thought a brawl was going to ensue. Then, another table had each diners meal coming out in 10-20 minute intervals...however, once the people started eating, the complaining stopped. We soon discovered why.

Having lived in Italy, I am a terrible snob about eating Italian food in the USA. I am not a big fan of the Italian-American food that people call Italian. The big portions, the overcooked pasta, vats of sauce....but I was so happy with the quality and authenticity that Roberto Donna's kitchen put out...

I started off with a Caprese which was not only perfectly dressed, but was composed of the freshest, sweetest tomatoes and mozzarella di buffalo cheese. The pasta dish that I ordered was on par if not better than the base fare that you find in any good trattoria in Italy. My husband and I split the pasta dish as his pizza was running behind...not a problem, the wood burning oven and Italian pizza maker created a truly wonderful pizza.

The problems for the restaurant continued as the computer system repeatedly froze (the reason for the poorly timed entrees, since orders were going in at different intervals) and then the credit card system went down and they were forced to ask everyone for cash.

Regardless of the problems with the service (as I have read countless times in your previous chats) I will be returning to Bebo as often as possible. The quality of the food makes it worth it. However, we are desperately waiting Galileo's reopening so we can get both the food and service. We are going broke treating ourselves to the only fine dining alternative, Maestro! Now that is truly a place that defines the fine dining experience from service throughout every aspect of the meal.

My observations...go to Bebo when you aren't in a hurry or trying to impress. Go with the thought that you will be eating an amazing example of true Italian eating...and try to keep your sense of humor!

Tom Sietsema: Ah, having a sense of humor is VITAL to enjoying Roberto's restaurants, is it not? I can't figure out why they can't get their act together, service-wise. (The best service I've had there, by the way, has been at the bar.)

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Washington, D.C.: I just read that Fabio Trabocchi is moving to NYC and leaving Maestro. Do you know whether it will stay open, and if so, who will be replacing him?

Tom Sietsema: Maestro will surely stay open, and the hotel is currently seeking a replacement for Mr. Trabocchi, whose enormous shoes will be hard to fill. I'm sorry to see him go -- and I eagerly await his return.

washingtonpost.com: Food Flash: Maestro.

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In the City: Hi Tom,

Love your chats. I was wondering if there are any good Korean restuarants in the city. This would be our family's first time trying Korean food. There will be 10 of us.

Thanks so much,

Tom Sietsema: Honestly, the best Korean food awaits in Northern Virginia (specifically Annandale). And there I like Sorak Garden, Gom Ba Woo, Yechon and Han Sung Oak, among other destinations.

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Birthday wishes and new dishes: Hi Tom: Missed you last week and am glad you're back!

I wanted to share another restaurant which provided a nice surprise for a birthday: Willow. I made reservations for my husband's birthday and to my (and his) surprise, the menu greeted him with a personalized birthday message. After dinner, he was brought an embossed wine glass filled with biscotti.

On to new dishes. Have you tried the relatively new restaurant in Old Town Alexandria called Overwood? Is it on your culinary radar? It replaced the old Ecco restaurant on Lee St.

I've been a few times and love thier meatloaf which comes with smashed red potatoes and smokey grilled asparagus. Another winner is the fried green tomatoes which are piled and topped with a large shrimp and slightly spicey remoulade. The prices are very reasonable and the service has been without problems thus far.

Thanks for the chats.

Tom Sietsema: I like the Willow approach to birthday celebrants! Fun, fun, fun.

As for Overwood, my review of the American restaurant is scheduled for later this month. Stay tuned.

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Arlington, Va.: After many years of discussing this with my Japanese friends (I work for a Japanese company), I would like your opinion as to whether it's necessary for a good sushi restaurant to be run only by Japanese people. Do you notice any taste difference between Japanese-owned and non-Japanese-owned restaurants that offer sushi?

Tom Sietsema: I have: taste AND presentation. Non-Japanese-run sushi restaurants tend to cut their fish, make their rice and season their food differently. I have yet to go to a Korean-run sushi bar, for instance, where the fish rivals that of similarly priced Japanese-run restaurants.

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Baltimore, Md.: I'd much rather a kid watch a DVD than be loud in a restaurant. But, I feel parents are also sometimes immune to noises that kids make, even if relatively quiet.

Us diners without kids often really hate it when kids ruin our dining experience. Crying babies, screaming kids, etc. are often not attended to at all, attended to at the table instead of taken out of the restaurant, etc... I hate to say that parents give up the right to go out to eat when they have kids, but they made the choice to have kids and should handle them properly in the restaurant or get a sitter.

Tom Sietsema: Uh oh. Here come the counterpointers!

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Mother of a 5 year old, again: I don't think casual v. fancy matters at all. I would NEVER bring such a young child to a fancy restaurant, even if he were Miss Manners' Perfect Child. It isn't fair to the other diners -- they are entitled to have their expensive, destination meal without the distraction of a young child, even a mute, perfectly still child. I do insist on appropriate behavior wherever we are because how else will he learn how to behave in different public situations?

Tom Sietsema: Actually, I LOVE seeing well-behaved children in upscale restaurants. I've been to a couple Michelin three star places and watched, with awe, as families have dined in peace together. I'm not sure how that happens, but it's possible!

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Silver Spring, Md.: Tom,

Just a quick comment from your chat two weeks ago about seating incomplete parties-- as a server, working at a restaurant that has no such policy denying this I can say that I have had times where the diners are spread about by 30 minutes to more than a hour-- so what does that mean for me? It means that with a limited section of tables I have someone occupying one of mine during the entire dinner rush- not ordering any more than if they had been there only the standard amount of time. If you find yourself in this situation I urge the diners to be friendly with the server and compensate a little more in tip-- your server may have lost out on another table- and another tip--

I do agree that with an empty restaurant- no big deal!

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Thanks for the industry perspective.

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Fort Myers, FL: We're going to be in Alexandria for my son's baptism soon. The church is in Old Town. Is there any place that would be good for brunch/lunch around Old Town (or near by) for about 20 people (including a few young children)? We've been out of the area for a couple of years and have lost track of the restaurant scene!

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Try the second-floor dining room at Vermilion, on King St.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Vermilion.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom,

I'm a part time server at a small restaurant. Over the weekend, a group of young mothers came in with their toddlers, and throughout brunch they managed to break three glasses. One was broken when a mother allowed her child to carry a large water glass into the bathroom, which he then promptly dropped. The other two were broken at the table and the mothers all giggled and then left, without offering to help clean up the mess they had made. I'm just curious what to do in a situation like this? Do I add money to their bill for the broken dishes? It is a small place and every dollar we make is important. I was just kind of flabbergasted. Ideas? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Dishes break in restaurants. It just happens. But for a parent to allow a child to carry a glass into a bathroom -- and for parents to laugh when dishes are broken -- is just plain rude. (It also sets a bad example for the kids.) I don't think you can charge for such boorish behavior, but I hope it doesn't happen on a regular basis, either. Did anyone on staff say anything to the women, during or after the accidents?

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Veal Cheeks: I had some great ones at Mio a few weeks ago.

Tom Sietsema: Thanks. Let's send some business to a new kid on the block.

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Washington, D.C.: I need postcards from Tom for Amsterdam and Paris please. I'm going next month.

Tom Sietsema: Here are the links to my most recent columns featuring those cities. A fresh Postcard from Paris will be published in the Travel section this Sunday, by the way.

washingtonpost.com: Postcards from Tom: Amsterdam in 2006, Amsterdam in 2003, Paris in 2006, Paris in 2005 and Paris in 2004

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Capitol Hill: The restaurant gods have smiled on Capitol Hill... went to Locanda last weekend and it is a much welcomed resident on the Hill. While its furnishings are sparse, it is an unquestionable improvement over Meyhane... With regard to the food, charcuterie was excellent as was my romaine with anchovy and egg (sort of a decontructed ceasar) salad. My macaroni and cheese was wonderful. The service was good. The owner was there the whole time, running around, making sure everyone was happy. And the hostess was delightful and accomodating, even to this starved and grumpy-b/c-her-husband-was-at-the-office-all-day girl. Two thumbs up...

Tom Sietsema: All the early reports have been very promising. I hope the trend continues.

washingtonpost.com: First Bite of Locanda.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom--You gave me a perfect recommendation for The River Cafe in London for a birthday dinner a couple of years ago; this question is a little easier.

I am off to Chicago on a business trip next weekend and would like one or two recommendations where a female food and wine lover can enjoy a great meal at a restaurant bar. I would prefer a downtown location, but no other restrictions. Thanks for all you do!

Tom Sietsema: The sprawling Custom House and the intimate Avec would both make great choices for the solo diner in downtown Chicago.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Tom,

Something has been bothering me that I need to get off my chest. It isn't really dining out, but picking up. I work as a manager at a restaurant and I can't tell you how many customers call in to place a carry out order and either ask "what do you guys have?" or don't have their order prepared.

Typically a customer on the phone is not the only person that needs to be taken care of and sitting on the phone for five minutes just isn't possible. Please, if people ever call into a restaurant, know what you want. If you have a question about specials or ingredients, fine, but for a place that has a menu with scores of items, don't ever ask "what do you all have to eat?" It happens so often, my stock answer has now become "We have a very large menu."

P.S.- The only thing worse is when people call in an order and are looking at the menu in thier hand trying to decide while on the phone.

Tom Sietsema: You're preaching to the choir here. Why, just this morning at Starbucks, I stood behind two people in a very long line who hemmed and hawed once they reached the counter and pastry case, as if they had never seen a bagel or a low-fat carrot cake before.

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I know how it happens: Children who behave themselves (and oddly, I notice this more in Europe) have parents who ARE PARENTS. When we grew up, my parents had a "children shall be seen and not heard" policy at meal time, unless we could express ourselves quietly and politely. It's not rocket science. It's called not being overly indulgent and wanting to be your child's "friend".

Tom Sietsema: Right on.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Dear Tom,

Just had to share my underwhelming experience at Matchbox. Maybe I was expecting too much because it had been recommended so frequently.

I went on Saturday at 3:45 to avoid the madness that was my first attempt on a Wednesday around 6:00pm (which after hearing it would be an hour wait for a table of two and the bar was four people deep, we left). My husband and I had to wait 15 minutes to be seated even though there were many empty tables. We were seated upstairs and the seats were so close together that we couldn't help but hear every word the other diners said around us, even though they were speaking at a normal level. And for us to speak to one another we had to speak LOUDLY so that a private conversation was impossible.

The seating arrangements are also so cramped that the person who sat us knocked me with his elbow when setting down our menus and the 100 lb woman who was seated next to us couldn't help but bump our table when she left to go to the bathroom.

The brickoven pizzas we had were good. But the atmosphere and service were lame.

Tom Sietsema: Sounds as if a few restaurants around town could stand to lose a few tables, huh? My dry cleaner knows all too well how often I come into contact with (strange) food when I excuse myself from near a too-close neighbor's table and brush my suit against .... veal demi-glace? Fruit compote? A butter plate?

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Somebody has to do it: Wow, lots of postcards from Paris -- it looks like you go there every year. What a hardship. You must hate your job.

Tom Sietsema: Paris is one of those cities a food writer needs to get to often, to stay abreast of trends. The same goes for New York and San Francisco (and probably Vegas, baby, Vegas).

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follow up Pizza Soup...: Tom - I feel remiss for not adding that although my pizza was soup (and arrived about 15 minutes after my husband's food), my husband's simple pasta w/ pomodoro was wonderful. As was the fun take on wedding soup - it rivals my mother's and that's saying A LOT. So please, Roberto, get it together!

Tom Sietsema: Love his wedding soup!

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Washington, D.C.: Tom,

A group of 10 are looking to celebrate a belated birthday by getting together for some dinner followed by drinks. We want something unpretentious and have decided to celebrate in U St (close to my house) or Glover Park-ish area (close to a friend's house). Can you please help?!!

Tom Sietsema: If you're looking for something new and different, look no further than the recently opened Station 9, which I wrote about in today's First Bite column in the Food section. It offers lots of style -- and zero attitude.

washingtonpost.com: First Bite of Station 9.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

I am thinking about going to Johnny's Half Shell for a weekday birthday lunch soon. I know the restaurant has gotten some mixed reviews since it moved to Capitol Hill and you even mentioned some issues in your November 2006 review. Have you (or any chatters) been recently? Has it worked out the kinks? If not, could you recommend another place for a weekday lunch. Doesn't have to be in Capitol Hill (in fact, I'd prefer Dupont, Woodley Park or Georgetown I think) but needs to be in the District. Thanks!!

Tom Sietsema: The transplanted Johnny's is fine, but I miss the size, the personality and the consistency of the original on P St. NW. (And I say this based on a recent meal on the Hill. Dessert is still the most memorable part of the food experience.)

Other festive options: Hook (seafood) in Georgetown or the Tabard Inn (new American) or Mourayo (Greek) in Dupont Circle.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Johnny's Half Shell.

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Salt Lake City, UT: Hi Tom, loyal reader and east-coast transplant here, and I'm delighted to be able to send a few suggestions towards the reader headed out west. People tend to be concerned about the liquor laws, but the short answer is that if you're ordering food, you can order liquor. If you just want to go into a bar (or a few specific restaurants, but there aren't many), you do have to have a membership, but I find if you think of it like a cover charge, it doesn't seem as strange or annoying.

As a bonus, I have to say that I have found Salt Lake to be one of the best places to buy wine by the glass -- since many parties dine with people who don't drink, restaurants for the most part are attentive to making good wines available by the glass for those of us who do. Also, Utah is one of the few states where you are allowed to take an unfinished bottle of wine with you.

Oh, I should note this is a fairly casual town, and though I could never bring myself to wear jeans, don't be shocked if you see people in denim even in the finest restaurants.

Okay, to the food. The Metropolitan (www.themetropolitan.com) has changed chefs at least once since you reviewed it (I believe it now has a team of chefs), but remains outstanding (I'd rate it the top restaurant - with the accompanying price tag). The menu changes fairly frequently, and waitstaff is very good at steering you towards the better dishes. The foie gras appetizer remains one of their specialties if that's up your alley. There's also a nice bar menu that is significantly less expensive and quite tasty.

My husband's overall favorite is Bambara (www.bambara-slc.com), though the last chef just departed a week ago. I wouldn't hesitate to eat there though, as their food and service stayed steady last time they were in between chefs. Favorites include the peeky toe crab and corn bisque, any duck, lamb (see below), or beef entree, and the lavendar-pear napoleon dessert.

My overall favorite is Cucina Toscana (www.cucina-toscana.com), which has a most delightful manager, Walter Nassi. We usually go for the daily specials, and the pasta sampler is a personal favorite.

Around the corner is Tony Caputo's (caputosdeli.com), which is a great place for a sandwich and any italian groceries you might need. If you're here on a Thursday, you might check their cooking class, which is more of a catered dinner with recipes to take home -- I definitely recommend the wine pairings.

Also nearby is newcomer Settebello Pizzeria Napoletana (www.settebello.net/SLC), which has only a couple salads and a handful of pizzas on its menu, but is amazingly delicious -- and recently certified as authentic Neapolitan pizza.

For other ethnic restaurants, Red Iguana (www.rediguana.com) is a local favorite for tasty moles. Can't say I've found a Chinese or Indian restaurant yet that I love, but for out of this world Thai (cooked and served by the loveliest recent immigrants who speak just a little English), get to Channon Thai Cafe (at 278 E on 900 South) -- I especially recommend the sweet and sour fish and the duck dish with eggplant (both on the back page of the menu). If you are over near the U (univ. of utah), Aristo's (244 S 1300 E) serves up very tasty greek with generous portions. Down on 15th & 15th, Mazza (www.mazzacafe.com) serves up delicious middle eastern.

Also, you can't go wrong with any of the restaurants from local chains Gastronomy (www.gastronomyinc.com) or Latitude (www.latituderg.com). The first is mainly fish, the second mainly sushi, which might sound scary in this land-locked state, but these two (and others) join forces with Delta to import fish on a daily basis.

Finally, if you see Morgan Valley Lamb on any menu (for instance at Bambara) order it -- it is from a local farm, and if you like lamb, this will make you love it. If you are in town on Saturday, get over to the Farmer's Market (info at downtownslc.org), and meet the lamb farmers themselves and buy some for the grill if you are staying in a house/apartment. You can also try a variety of ethnic foods for lunch, including Sudanese (I recommend the chicken with tomatoes).

I've rambled on long enough, so I'll conclude by saying you can trust any review by Mary Brown-Malouf in the Salt Lake Tribune if you are looking for something other than these.

Tom Sietsema: Wow! A book! I will have to digest this after lunch. Thanks so much for the detail.

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Missed U.: So glad you're back. We are wondering if it upsets the balance (if one exists) by giving a tip directly to a bus person or server, and not to one's wait person. For example, if the person taking our order, explaining menu items, etc. is not so wonderful, but the staff clearing the table and bringing the dishes are working their butts off, is it fair to tip the waiter less to reflect dissatisfaction with his/her service, thereby reducing the bussers' tip (assuming they get a percentage from the waiter)? On the one hand, I believe in rewarding someone's extra hard work, but on the other hand I'd hate to get them in trouble if the restaurant pools tips, waiters tip bussers from their take, whatever. Can you clear this up? Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Some restaurants pool tips, some restaurants don't. If you feel strongly about making sure credit (money) goes to the right person, I see no harm in slipping some cash to a particularly helpful employee. (Best to ask a supervisor rather than a server how the restaurant handles tips. And it wouldn't hurt to share the name of a good worker with a manager on the way out.)

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Potomac, Md.: My wife and I went to Oyamel Thursday night, 7/26, around 8:45. There were several empty tables for 4 available, but we were told we had to wait for one of 2 due to "large parties and later reservations" by both the hostess and the manager. After a 20 minute wait, we were finally seated. When we left around 10:00, the same tables were still empty! We've been many times to the other 3 restaurants in the Jose Andres chain and have never had an experience like this. Is this usual policy for other restaurants or did we just get a "bad apple"?

Tom Sietsema: Few restaurants are going to keep tables unseated if they truly aren't attached to scheduled reservations. My hunch is, a couple of parties stood the restaurant up or (hopefully) those reservations were cancelled at the last minute.

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Conway, N.H.: My best chicken ever? Chicken picked out live, slaughtered/cleaned while you wait, stuffed with fresh figs, a stick of butter, salt and peppered and roasted in a hot oven. Nothing else has ever compared.

Tom Sietsema: We want details! Where was this? When was this? And can one still order such a feast?

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Woodbridge, Va.: Tom I just wanted to copy you on a message I sent to the Armstrongs at Restaurant Eve.

I just wanted to thank your husband, Cathal, for sending a list of Dublin restaurants to try in Dublin to Tom Sietsema's weekly blog a in March. I just returned from Dublin where I enjoyed an exquisite meal at l'Ecrivain.

L'Ecrivain happened to be around the corner from my hotel. (I later found out that they first opened in its basement.) I walked in hoping they could find a table for one although I had no reservation mainly due to Cathal's recommendation. They fit me in and I throughly enjoyed the meal. Not only will I remember that meal, but the service I received was unforgettable. I was offered books to read in between courses. At the end of the evening, they even gave me an autographed copy of their cookbook.

I hope you do not mind, but I let them know you were referring those of us in the DC area their way when we visit Dublin.

Thanks again.

Tom --I hope you get to try this restaurant some day. Also, thanks for the all your chats and reviews. I love that we live in an area where chefs support each other.

Tom Sietsema: So much love on the chat today! I could get used to this ...

Dublin is definitely on my (admittedly long) list of cities I hope to explore in the next year or so, and Mr. Armstrong's recommendations are one reason why.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom, I dug Central--minimalist but sleek and chic decor, clean lines simple to the eye, and good food to boot. But what's with the plastic Softsoap bottle in the bathroom (at least when I was there recently)? With everything else attended to with such streamlined thoughtfulness, it looked clumsy and out of place. Michel Richard: go to your local Target/Container Store/dollar store and get a nicer soap dispenser!

Tom Sietsema: Details matter, don't they?

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Children at Restaurants: My son is born in 1998. He has started to eat with my wife and I at the table since he was 8 months old. We never bring any book or any sort of distractions to dinner. When he was 5 years old he sat down with us on Christmas Eve at Cafe Gray in New York and had the tasting menu he prepared for us. The only difference on his menu was instead of Foie Gras he had open ravioli. I guess it's all up to the parents.

Tom Sietsema: Hey, can you adopt me? Lucky kid there...

I count about 300 unanswered questions today. Amazing. And my apologies for not getting to more of them, but it's been a crazy last five days for me.

Here's to a wonderful rest of the week. I look forward to seeing you again next Wednesday.

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