Science: Alaska's Controversial Road

Washington Post staff writer Marc Kaufman was online on Monday, July 23 at Noon ET to discuss the controversy surrounding the building of a one-lane, nine-mile gravel road through Alaska's Izembek National Wildlife Refuge.

Residents who live near the refuge say they need the road so that emergency medical care can reach their homes, while environmentalists say the road will wreak havoc with the heart of one of the most fertile wildlife breeding and feeding sites in the nation, if not the world.

Read more: In Alaska, a Road Marked With Controversy (Post, July 23)

A transcript follows.

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Marc Kaufman: Good morning everyone, and thanks for joining in this chat. There are a number of important and hot button issues involved in this story: How and when should we bend the rules on development in wilderness areas? How should the nation respond to the needs and desires of native communities? And what role, if any, does the presence of a large fish cannery in the community asking for the road play in the whole effort? I look forward to your questions.

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Washington, D.C.: Why did people settle in this region of Alaska if there was no access to the rest of civilization?

Marc Kaufman:

King Cove was settled back in 1911, primarily because of the cannery. For decades the town and company did their business by boat, or by plane -- like many remote Alaska communities. But King Cove is unusual in several ways. First is that during WW II, the U.S. built a major air base across the bay from King Cove in the town of Cold Bay. That airport later became commerical and is a major, all-weather facility. So unlike many isolated communities, King Cove residents have the theoretical possibility of reaching a major airport.

Second, Izembek became a state, and then federal preserve the second half of the 20th century. Native people say they didn't know it was happening, and had no input in the process. So they argue now that the issue of building the road through wilderness should take into account the fact that their views were not requested or received when the wilderness designations were made.

Here is an address for the official state description of King Cove.

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Alexandria, Va.: Tell us more about the land swap. What is the current status and land use of the proposed swap lands? Under Section 404 of the Clean Water Act and the no-net loss of wetlands policy established by Bush 41, wetlands that are destroyed must be replaced with wetlands of equivalent function and area. What is the status of that process?

Marc Kaufman: I'm not clear on the exact details of the wetland no-net loss issue regarding this proposed land swap, but the Aleut community has offered to give up its rights to another large nearby lagoon -- the Mortenson lagoon. There is a road into the lagoon and that would remain under the land swap offer, but I believe title to the land would go to the federal government. There are other smaller wetlands that the community is also offering. I believe most of the land set aside for the swap by the state is higher ground.

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New York, N.Y.: After reading the article and the two links provided by the Washington Post, I have a few questions about the usefulness of the hovercraft. When (and for how long) is taking the hovercraft to the airport not an option? At those times, would an ambulance be able to traverse the proposed road or would that road also be impassible?

Basically, will the proposed road be a useful backup when the hovercraft cannot work, or will it be another partial solution to meeting the medical needs of the residents of King Cove?

Marc Kaufman: You get some difference of opinion on this. The City Manager of King Cove told me that the road would not be open 10 to 15 days a year, while the hovercraft cannot made the journey as many as 50 days a year. Environmentalists say this is incorrect, and that the road would be closed far more frequently and the hovercraft is much more reliable. One thing that everyone agrees on is that the weather around King Cove is harsh, the winds can be fierce, the fog can be think, and the snow can be deep.

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Anchorage, Alaska: The road opponents need to come clean on this issue of a "hidden force" for the road being the Peter Pan cannery. There is simply NO truth to that statement. I would also challenge the person responsible for making the comment as "some town leaders raised the possibility of selling it." Who?

Marc Kaufman: I spoke with Sen. Murkowski and Rep. Young about whether the company might some day use the road, if built, and I was told that was a decision for the company to make. In other words, they would not be precluded from using it. When I spoke to the Peter Pan plant manager, he said the company had no current plans to use the road, if built, but he definitely did not rule out the possibility of using it in the future. The road could be very useful to the company in terms of transporting workers -- most of the 500-person workforce is from outside--to and from Cold Bay airport, and could also be an inexpensive way to transport fresh seafood to the airport.

Regarding the comments on the possibility of selling the hovercraft, I have a letter from the Fish and Wildlife Association to King Cove (or Aleutians East Borough) officials that says the agency had learned that local officials were going to bring up the subject of selling the hovercraft at the next town meeting. I believe that after receiving the letter, the plans changed.

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Homer, Alaska: Since the U.S. taxpayers already provided $37.5 million that solved the problem for King Cove residents with enhanced health care facilities and a successful hovercraft operation for medical evacuations, why is this still presented as Native vs. environmentalists? The fact is that Peter Pan Seafoods is behind this new push, having made large contributions to Young and Murkowski to introduce this legislation to fund a road to transport their seasonal cannery workers.

Marc Kaufman: The reason why this still involves a dispute between native Americans and environmentalists is that the people of King Cove say that the hovercraft did not solve their problem. They said it is unreliable, can't be used during bad weather and -- probably most important -- is just too expensive for the community to support.

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Noah, Washington, D.C.: This issue is much bigger than just this one road in just this one national wildlife refuge. This is a precedent setting case.

The Fish and Wildlife Service in Alaska is beginning to reveal a trend of swapping out land whenever an 'incompatible use' is proposed on a national wildlife refuge. (According to law, a "use", in this case, a road, must be "compatible" with the purpose of the refuge and the mission of the Refuge System" I'm dubious that road-building is "compatible" with the purpose of preserving wildlife.) FWS is in the midst of a land swap at Yukon Flats refuge, adjacent to the famed Arctic refuge. There, they are seriously considering swapping out 200,000 acres to facilitate oil and gas development on land that is now in the refuge.

Do you see the trend? These proposals at Izembek, Yukon Flats, and others must be opposed to stem the tide of giving away national wildlife refuge lands. The road at Izembek would do serious harm to the internationally significant wetlands, enable increased poaching and other disturbances, and with intense storms and heavy snows, may be just as dangerous and maintenance-intensive as using the $9 million hovercraft.

Marc Kaufman: Many environmentalists feel as you do -- that this could be a precedent-setting case that they find to be worrisome. Sen. Murkowski, Rep. Young and the officials of King Cove say that this is a unique situation, and that the offer of more than 62,000 acres by the state and local community sets the bar so high that other proposed land trades would seem unworthy in comparison. On the other side, I know many believe the Izembek lagoon area is the heart of the entire preserve and that no amount of land offered could make the trade worthwhile. I'm afraid that I don't know enough about the wilderness-trade issue to have an opinion about precedents, but it is certain to be an increasingly important issue in the future.

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Bethesda, Md.: I remember back when the Alaska pipeline was built and recall the environmentalist's shrill cry that many animals will die because the pipeline fell in the path of their migration routes. It appears the animals decided to ignore the pipeline and go about their merry way. Do you think the same will happen with the road? A lot of hubbub over nothing?

Marc Kaufman: I don't think it is hubbub over nothing. You may be correct that Izembek birds, animals and eelgrass will do fine with a narrow gravel road in their midst. But it is also possible that road construction could have unforeseen negative consequences -- including an influx of hunters, fuel spills, and disruptions to clearly fragile habitat. I guess the issue is one of risk: How much risk is worth taking in terms of the health of Izembek to build the road and provide better access to the people of King Cove and perhaps the Peter Pan company.

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Anchorage, Alaska: Why doesn't Mr. Senner, Alaska Audubon, acknowledge that Black Brant are in the Izembek Refuge for only three weeks out of the year, but the Aleuts of this area are there 365 days a year?

Marc Kaufman: While it is true that the Black Brant uses Izembek as a migratory stop rather than a permanent home, I don't think that necessarily decreases its importance. There are many other waterfowl and animals that thrive in Izembek, and clearly there is value to that. But there is no doubt value as well to the people of King Cove -- about half of whom are Aleuts -- to have the road and better access. Congress accepted the argument of the King Cove residents back in 1998 in that they appropriated $37.5 million to help them get better access. They say the solution hasn't worked, but I think it's fair to say the government has spent more on this community than most similar communities in Alaska (and elsewhere.)

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anchorage, ak?: What is wrong with the basic premise that the Aleuts of King Cove should have the best possible transportation access in their life as simply a matter of quality-of-life for medical and other reasons?

Are they less deserving than anybody else?

Does it matter to anyone that the way the King Cove residents were informed of Izembek wilderness decision in the 1970's when the federal government burned down there subsistence cabins WITHOUT any notice?

Have any "lower 48" Americans been treated this way?

Marc Kaufman: As this writer makes clear, this is not a simple matter and issues of fairness, or perceived unfairness, are involved. I think most Americans would agree that people in King Cove deserve to have access to emergency medical care, but many would no doubt also say that Congress responded to their needs in 1998. That may not have been a perfect solution, but it is one that has already been costly and clearly does solve some of the problem.

I'm in over my head in terms of knowing what did, or did not, happen to native Aleuts when the area became a wilderness, and whether they have been compensated for their losses. But that issue seems to be somewhat different than whether or not it makes sense to build this particular road through this particular wilderness refuge

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Dexter, Mich.: Wouldn't a road be just as expensive to support as the hovercraft (and even more difficult to traverse in bad weather)?

Marc Kaufman: I have gotten very different opinions about the cost of maintaining the road, and how often it, too, would be closed by weather. But hopefully completely impartial researchers can and will make an assessment.

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Alexandria, Va.: Good Afternoon. I am wondering when the argument that this road is for emergency care is applicable as I do not feel that it is. These people chose to live in an area that frankly, I think they shouldn't be able to live in. One little road will always lead to another. And anyone who thinks that a Starbucks couldn't find their way there is fooling themselves.

Marc Kaufman: There is, indeed, an undeniable history in Alaska and elsewhere of development following road. There is also a history of strict limits on development and road use being changed over time. King Cove officials say they have agreed to having the road built with side barriers that will keep drivers from leaving the roadway. (Off road driving is big in Alaska.) I doubt the road would bring in Starbucks or Cracker Barrel, but it would probably be niave to think it will not result in some additional development in the area.

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Ann Arbor, Mich.: The U.S. taxpayer has already spent millions of dollars on only 550 people who choose to live in an inhospitable environment. Haven't we already spent too much on these people? Perhaps we should fund their relocation instead of continuing to fund their choice to live somewhere that makes it difficult to access health facilities.

Marc Kaufman: Relocation seems like an unnecessary solution, since the community actually serves its residents pretty well. Many of the Aleut and non-Aleut people there fish for a living -- providing Peter Pan with some of its product. There is a small airport in King Cove that can fly people to and from Cold Bay Airport (the third largest in Alaska) when the weather is okay, and they can then fly on to Anchorage or elsewhere for medical care. Ironically, King Cove is probably better off than many rural Alaska communities because of the Cold Bay airport. But the fact that residents do not have a foolproof way to get to Cold Bay creates an understandable, if perhaps unavoidable, frustration.

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King Cove, Alaska: The map provided is a bit misleading. There are many existing roads on the Cold Bay side, from the time when over 2500 soldiers were here in 1942. These roads are still used today. All of the 'proposed road' that is in the white section on your map already exists. There used to be roads in the wilderness and they are visible to this day.

Marc Kaufman: You are correct that there are some roads in the area dating back to WW II days, and some are no doubt still in use. I was told that the roads going into the Izembek wilderness area were closed back in the late 1990s, after the deal was made for the hovercraft and landing road. I believe most are in fact not used much now, as they have been blocked in various ways. This said, I am told that some hunters do go into Izembek, and they probably use the remains of some old roads.

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Anonymous: Isn't it too simple to pit environmentalist against natives, when in fact there are past reports from FWS which state concerns about the incompatibility of the road through these sensitive lands? Also Congress held public hearings (one in Cold Bay I believe) and debated this issue in the House and Senate. The majority of Congress members concluded that building a road through this internationally significant wetland is not acceptable, but to meet the needs of these small communities they gave them $37.5 million dollars to address heath and safety concerns.

Marc Kaufman: I agree that this is not a simple environmentalist versus native Americans issue, although that is certainly part of it. My story did raise the possibility that the needs of the Peter Pan cannery may be playing a behind-the-scenes role in bringing the issue back to the floor of Congress. And yes, a majority of members of Congress did oppose the road back in 1998. But now we have a very different offer from the state and local peoples in terms of land that would be protected as wilderness. That may still prove to be inadequate in terms of convincing enough people that the road is worthwhile, but it is a different proposal than what was put forward back in 1998.

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Washington, D.C.: You should make it clear that the building of this road wouldn't connect King Cove to anything other than the airport in Cold Bay. It wouldn't link them to a larger road system that would bring in lots of people from other areas. The people who would be using it would be those making the long trip to the area anyway.

Also, then "thin isthmus" you refer to is nearly three miles wide and, while it is dotted with marsh and other wetland, the road will probably be 12 feet wide at the most.

Marc Kaufman: You are correct that there is no road out of Cold Bay or King Cove that can take you to other parts of Alaska. So King Cove would not become a beehive of activity if the road is built. Both communities do, however, have airports, and the link would no doubt make both more attractive from an economic development point of view.

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Anchorage, Alaska: I would to comment on the $37.5 offer. I received the call before 8 am and was told that I had ten minutes to get back with a yes or a no answer. I called the Mayor of the Aleutians East Borough, explained the deal and said we had about 5 minutes left to get back to the Senator! We said yes without seeing all of the language of the bill. We learned that no road/marine was financially viable during the EIS process.

Marc Kaufman: I am not familiar with the particulars of how the $37.5 million offer came to be, but if you are correct then I think it's fair to say that is no way to legislate or to spend the taxpayer's money. The fact that the access problems remains, from the point of view of many King Cove residents, unresolved indicated the money was not wisely appropriated or spent.

Incidently, I believe the senator you refer to is Sen. Ted Stevens, who has long been a major force on the Senate Appropriations Committee.

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Alexandria, Va.: You should look into the wetlands swap, there are very specific regulations governing such projects, with the Army Corps of Engineers responsible for reviewing, specifying conditions and authorizing such actions, if that's not part of the deal here then there are major laws being broken . If this process is going on as required, the detail and status of the process should be available to the public....

Marc Kaufman: An Environmental Impact Statement was indeed written (around 2003, I believe) and it concluded that the area was very valuable, quite sensitive, and that building a road through it could have serious consequences. Fish and Wildlife Service officials say they have not taken a formal position on whether the road can be built without doing serious harm to Izembek, but Sen. Murkowski told me that she was been working with them and that she believes they support the land swap.

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Washington, D.C.: It seems to me that there is little to commend this circuitous road between King's Cove and Cold Bay. The hovercraft route appears to be more direct, possibly faster, and less susceptible to deep snows or avalanches. Is there any reason to think that the road is really an improvement?

Marc Kaufman: It would be an improvement in two ways: It would probably provide more dependable access than the hovercraft, and it would not cost King Cove as much as $1 million a year.

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Olympia, Wash.: I have walked those lands with USFWS and have seen their values to wildlife, which is why they are protected by a Wilderness Area, and have ridden across Cold Bay in a crab boat where the captain admittedly said this issue is really about economic development, not human health and safety. Congress already paid over $35 million to solve the human health and safety issue, but the drive for economic development continues. Wilderness Areas should not be sacrificed to economic development.

Marc Kaufman: Thanks for your comment.

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Marc Kaufman: Sorry to say I have to run, although I have not been able to answer all your questions. Thanks for sending them in, and I hope this forum was useful.

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