Layover time killers, hassles of flying to Canada, Iceland, August "Down Under" and more.
Monday, August 13, 2007; 2:00 PM
The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of ... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.
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![]() The Post's Flight Crew: (from left to right) John Deiner, Carol Sottili, Steve Hendrix, Anne McDonough, Gary Lee, K.C.
Summers, Cindy Loose, Andrea Sachs.
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Gary Lee: Yo, armchair travelers, adventure seekers, roadtrippers, and all others: welcome to the Travel section's weekly chat. Gary Lee here acting as your host. Our chat crew today includes John Deiner, deputy editor of the Post travel section, staff writers extraordinaire Andrea Sachs, Cindy Loose and Carol Sottili. We also have for her final appearance on these chats staff researcher (and sometimes scribe) Anne Mcdonough. Anne, a stalwart and always on point member of our crew for the past three years is leaving to return to school. So if you had been saving up questions for her, today's the day to ask.
Yesterday's news of the folks who were stuck at LAX for hours due to a computer glitch made me remember the occasions in which I was stuck in airports or cities due to weather or other unexpected conditions. Surely many of you have been caught in a holding pattern at some point. What did you do to pass the time? Any advice to offer those who might be similarlay caught. The best answer and most succinct answer gets a set of a couple of pieces of clear plastic travel totes courtesy of O2H, Check them out at www.02Hide.com.
Ask away!
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New York, NY: My boyfriend and I are going to Mexico (the Caribbean side) in early September. Do you think we should worry about hurricanes and if so, should we buy travellers insurance?
Carol Sottili: I never worry about stuff I can't control. But I do take out trip insurance. And early September is prime hurricane season. Some resorts offer their own hurricane guarantees -check with your resort. And make sure that the trip insurance you purchase covers hurricane evacuation. Go to a site such as www.quotewright.com or www.insuremytrip.com to find comparisons.
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Washington, D.C.: My mom (and I) would like to fly from Laguardia to Niagara Falls and spend a few days. Any recommendations and how much time do your suggest. I have absolutely no experience with this area and any help you could give me to plan this for her would be much appreciated. Thanks!
John Deiner: Hey, DC. Love that area -- somehow the folks who surround the falls have been able to conjure the perfect mix of nature and cheese.
You can easily kill two days or more in that area -- I'm going to send out a link we did to a story on the area right after this. Remember that while there are lots of activities around the falls, including behind-the-falls tours and the Maid of the Mist, you don't have to stray far from the region for some fascinating attractions up and down river, including parks, whirlpools, etc. We covered a lot of it in the story following this.
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Passing the time: We were in Oak Ridge TN w/ my boss and colleague from work. Knew the flight would be late, so I detoured to a WalMart on the way to the airport and got a pack of cards. We played poker for pennies while waiting at the airport and had a great time. Learned some new moves from my boss too!
Gary Lee: Hey, cool! This puts you in the running for the prize. Thanks.
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washingtonpost.com: The Niagara Brawl: Canada versus New York, (Sept. 18, 2005)
John Deiner: And here ya go.
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Washington, D.C.: I'm writing in response to last week's question about solo travel. I'm a 30-something woman who has taken six solo vacations and is about to embark on a seventh. I say go for it. I travel alone mostly because I haven't been able to find a travel companion who (i) wants to go to the places I want to visit and (ii) can afford to take the kind of vacation I want to take. I decided I didn't want to limit my vacations because of those issues, and I'm so glad I made that call. I have been to places I have never visited before (all in the US, Canada and the Caribbean so far, but I'm going to Europe in the fall). It has been so interesting to see how varied and beautiful this continent is. I've met some really nice people, and also people who can't quite get their arms around the concept of a woman traveling alone on a vacation (those lead to some of my funniest vacation stories).
The first time I traveled alone was the hardest. I went out west, where I had never been before, and just rented a car and drove to various spots on the map that looked interesting. I plan my vacations a little more now, but I still look back on that first one as my favorite. I was lucky because that part of the country (northern Arizona and southern Utah) had a lot to see and didn't need great planning, but I also think about it as a big step in my life. I was finally an adult who could make her own decisions and did not need to rely on anybody else to be happy. Now my family and friends are so used to me traveling alone that no one even flinches when I tell them my plans. I love traveling with other people, but I will never let lack of a traveling companion stop me from taking a wonderful vacation if that lack is the only thing holding me back.
Gary Lee: I and many other travelers who go solo appreciate your perspective.
Thanks.
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Portland, Ore: What are the current restrictions at London Heathrow about being able to leave the airport in between lengthy connections? We have heard that you are confined to the airport if your connection is less than 24 hours long and was wondering if this is still the case. If so, are there any options within the airport for showers and naps? Thank you!
Carol Sottili: I don't think there's anyone at the door preventing you from leaving. But it is often a long ordeal to make a connection there, so I wouldn't leave if I have only a few hours between flights. There is a hotel connected to the airport - you can walk to the Hilton from Terminal 4.
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Arlington, Va.: Help! I discovered a fairly sizeable stash of French francs in a drawer this weekend, and I have no plans to travel to France anytime soon. Is there somewhere stateside I can exchange them (for dollars or euros)? Is there a deadline after which they're no longer exchangeable? Any guidance appreciated.
Andrea Sachs: Since France now uses the euro, your found francs won't even buy you a baguette crumb. Most currency places in the State exchange only euros, but the U.S. Penny and Coin Service in Falls Church (703-538-5525) and Wheaton will buy back your old-school French cash--as well as other outdated or arcane currency you dig up in your sock drawer.
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Honeymoon ideas?: Hi,
My fiance and I will be going on our honeymoon next September and we're having a hard time deciding where to go. We're planning to take about two weeks and would like to go somewhere that we can travel around for a week and see a city or two and then rent an apartment at a beach for another week. We'd like to have a mix of city and small town and aren't interested in an all-inclusive Caribbean type of place where you don't get to see the local culture.
We have a budget of about $3000 (not including airfare) and ideally we'd like to go to France or Italy, possibly Turkey. We don't have really high expectations about what we can afford in terms of hotels in France or Italy, but this being our honeymoon, we would like to stay somewhere clean and pleasant. Also, we're willing (and would look forward to) shopping in local markets and cooking for ourselves in an apartment so we don't expect to eat lavish meals out all of the time.
Would our budget allow for a honeymoon in either France or Italy? Do you have any recommendations on good itineraries for any of those countries that would combine cities, culture and the beach? We've been to Paris and Rome, so those don't need to be included.
Thanks!
Anne McDonough: This is just a thought, but coming up should be a link to an article we ran about Praiano, on the Amalfi coast, which seems like the perfect place to make a homebase where you cook and relax and get to know an area...Other than that, who has the perfect itinerary for these two?
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washingtonpost.com: Hey, Neighbor, (April15, 2007)
Anne McDonough: For the honeymoon seekers...
Thanks for the link, Kim!
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Washington, D.C.: Have you finished judging the travel photo contest yet? When will the winning photos be published?
Anne McDonough: Hey DC, the winners of our annual photo contest will be revealed in this coming Sunday's issue, Aug. 19. Good luck to one and all!
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Wasington, DC: I just found out I have to travel to Sao Paulo Brazil for work in 2 weeks. Am I better going in person to the embassy to get my Visa, or going through an agency? I work remotely, so having an ink signature on a letter from the company stating my business may be a challenge as well - will they accept a fax?
Thanks gurus!!
Gary Lee: If you have time I'd recommend going to the embassy yourself. When I did it a couple of years back the process was pretty painless. I do believe they would accept a fax but best to call the consulate beforehand just to confirm.
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Washington DC: I am flying to Canada with my 5-year-old son to visit friends - do I need an affidavit from my husband saying it's okay to take the kid out of the country? If so, do I need a copy, or two? When and to whom do I show it? We never did this before. Thanks for your help!
Cindy Loose: I am so glad you asked!
Yes, Canada is one of the countries that require a child traveling without both parents to have a NOTARIZED letter. This is to help prevent international child abduction, and parents who don't read CoGo sometimes show up at the airport to find they can't travel, or the airline forgets the rule and they get turned away on arrival. Big bummer.
Your letter should give your name and the name of the parent not traveling, the child's name, the dates of travel and airline info if traveling by air, a brief summary of why you're traveling. It must be notarized with the signature of the parent not traveling.
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New York, NY: There are hardly any bargains for business travelers. Can you explain why?
What does it mean when there are different letters for business travelers. Are there any advantages for travelers who pay more money for what appears to be the same service?
Carol Sottili: Business travelers pay more when they fly on short notice. Business-class travelers pay more to get better seats and service. Fare classifications are differentiated by letters.
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LAX Veteran: If you are stuck in LAX, there is a good restaurant in the center of the airport, Encounter. One can sit and watch the airplanes take off and land (if any are). It has a space theme with a googy spacelike elevator ride, but kids might like it. The food was good and the decor different, but different in a nice sense.
Gary Lee: Thanks. It's always good to get the viewpoint of someone who's been there.
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Washington, DC: Wow, no more Anne McDonough at Travel? Who is going to be the designated go to girl, or guy, for all thing China?
Anne McDonough: Hey DC, I'll make sure to check in on the chat every now and again ;) It's just that now they won't have me hogging all of the China questions--no worries, there will still be plenty of advice coming your way!
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Washington, DC: I'm traveling as a pass rider of an airline employee ( my son) I am considering purchasing a ticket for my 80 yr old mother who has dementia. Is there a way/ should I to alert the airline about her mental status, or request that we sit together. She is not violent or overly confused, she will just keep asking where she is or the same question over and over.
Cindy Loose: If it were me I'd just request a seat next to her without getting into the issue, unless you think she might try to storm the cockpit. Books seats as soon as you can. If you have trouble doing that---sometimes coach class seats can be hard to reserve in advance---then I'd make the call about the special circumstances.
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Fairfax Va: I used to have to travel quite frequently to Toronto for business. Air Canada flew regioanl jets, which are comfortable for about 2 -3 hours. No matter how on time I was getting to Toronto, it never failed that there was always a delay. The worst delay happened after pushing back an hour late from the gate. We rolled out and then sat and sat on the taxiway. Turns out they were short air traffic controllers and so they had to shut down one runway, which already had some 40 planes lined up on it. Needless to say, incoming planes had priority over outgoing, so we sat for 2 hours. We ate every bit of food (mostly chips and crackers) and drank every soft drink (no booze on these flights) before we finally made it out. As it turns out, that was my last flgith to Toronto.
Gary Lee: Oh, thanks for sharing your story. That delay could win you the prize....
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for the honeymooners: why not point them to the link on the gites in france that ran in yesterday's paper. i've del.icio.us'ed the article myself, and it sounds like what they're looking for: spend a week in paris, or near abouts, and then head outside the city for the local experience.
Anne McDonough: You're rest-the Aug. 5 story sounds right up their alley. Link coming right up!
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dream honeymoon: rent a boat and go up the canals in France. Stop at a small town each evening, ride bikes to the town and get bread, cheese, wine for dinner. Set your own pace. Explore historic castles while the lockman puts your boat through the locks.
Anne McDonough: Hear that, honeymooners?
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LAX Veteran: If you're stuck for something to do, watch around and celebrity hunt. I've seen Ray Charles and the Cigarette Smoking Man from X-Files at LAX. Even if you don't see someone, you can pretend. "Isn't that Lindsay Lohan over at the bar..." Someone once even asked me for my autograph. I wonder who they thought I was...
Gary Lee: Maybe they recognized you as that person who always walks around LAX staring at people...
Nice answer. Much thanks.
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Layover in Iceland: On my way to London once, I scheduled a layover in Rejkyavik, partially because it saved an enormous amount on the cost of the ticket. I even decided to book a later flight, giving myself about 6 hours during which I figured I could find my way into the city, look around, and make it back for my flight. Unfortunately, not only do they not let passengers leave the airport during a layover, international passengers can't leave the international terminal... which has all of 5 gates and one tiny duty free shop. So I spent 6 hours flirting with gate attendants and security guards and asking them to teach me Icelandic. We had a great deal of fun, I learned passable phrases and they all even gathered at the gate to say goodbye to me!
Gary Lee: Sounds like you made the most of that experience. So, how do you say "Do you come here a lot? in Icelandic?
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In the news: There were two reports over the weekend. The first report called into question the metric used in how DOT calcilates on time arrival percentage. As a mathematician I know how the numbers are cooked. That is why the flight times have taken longer because it is a buffer to artificailly inflate the numbers. What measure is missing is what percentage of customers are able to get to their final destination on time.
The other issue was with LAX and the customs handling the people who arrived. The computer system crashed so customs couldnt scan everyone to let them into the country so passengers had to sit and wait 12+ hours to pass through customs. Some of them had to sit on the plane at LAX for 8-12 hours because there was no place for the plane to park and unload passangers.
This started around 2pm on Saturday and the final people were able to pass through around 4am Sunday morning. Many missed connections. What really blows my mind is if the passengers were US citizens why could customs just let them back in the old fashioned way??
Laughed out loud when I saw the Tom Toles editorial cartoon last week on the passangers planning on taking over the aircraft to hijack the plane and make the pilot fly to the planes scheduled destination.
Cindy Loose: One of the cute tricks I discovered by chance re on time arrivals---they don't count planes that are diverted to another city, and they don't count planes that sit for however many hours and then don't take off.
Would seem to me that a plane that never takes off would count as a plane that was late, but not so. Also seems like you'd think you were late if you bought a ticket direct to San Francisco and the plane had to stop in Cleveland for eight hours to get fixed and then landed in San Francisco eight hours after you were scheduled to land. But again, not so.
I have no facts about it was decided not to count diversions and planes so late they never take off. But I'm imagining some pretty heavy lobbying.
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Washington, DC: Hello Flight Crew,
My question might be a bit unusual but I'm hoping that you'll know where to guide me. I'm looking to move to Hawaii or another warmer climate area for a month or so during the winter months. I still plan on working so this isn't a vacation. I've looked online but it seems that vacation rentals will rent a house for a month but that gets pretty costly. I spoke to a real estate agent but I would need to rent a house for at least 6 months.
Considering that I'm only looking at a month or two away, do you have any suggestions on where to look? Or should I try to go elsewhere where renting a vacation home won't be as expensive as hawaii?
I'm open to any suggestions or recommendations as my biggest reason for leaving DC in winter is to get out of the cold.
Thanks for your help!
Carol Sottili: Try one of the rent-from-owner sites, such as www.vrbo.com or www.cyberrentals.com. But Hawaii is expensive. Perhaps you should consider Arizona or Southern California, although you'd probably have to go outside of the big tourism spots to save money.
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London, U.K.: Hi Portland - yes, there are shower facilities at Heathrow. Off the top of my head I can't give a description of where (and am not sure how helpful such directions would be), but if you do a quick search online for Heathrow facilities you'll at least find out what terminals have them. If you want to nap undisturbed, you may need to rely on the executive clubs and that sort of thing. I can't speak towards if you're allowed to leave the airport while waiting for a connection, but personally, my choice would be to stay if you're there for fewer than 10 hours - you won't need to risk getting stuck in traffic/on the Tube and missing a connection, you won't need to pass through security again, and while it's not exactly a comfortable vacation stop you can do a fair bit of shopping for items you forgot to pack or need to replace, or can sit and stare at the world news, or pig out. More than 10 hours and depending on my mood I'd probably go into London (if it is allowed), but bear in mind that, depending on your airline, you could have a very long queue to get back through security, and then another queue (and more security)actually to get to your gate, and that, if you are using the Tube, you could spend about 30-45 minutes just getting in to the attraction you want to see. (Those times are also dependent on which terminal your airline uses.)
Carol Sottili: Thanks.
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LAX Veteran: The good news about LAX, indeed many airports now, is they have pay computers that one may use to pass the time. The downside: there are not enough computers to accomodate many people if there are a lot of waiting people caught with long delays. Another problem, as I learned, is they don't always work well. As you are charged by the minute to your credit card number, I once couldn't get it to shut off. I called the company, and that were very helpful and I was not charged. They warn that sometimes in bad weather they won't shut off, so, if that happens to anyone, just call the company. They will be very understandable. Otherwise, you may not want to see your credit card bill and discover you've been providing LAX customers with days of free computer use.
Gary Lee: Nice tip! Thanks.
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Washington, DC: Hi! My friend and I are taking a trip to Dubrovnik in mid-September. We're thinking about possible taking a day trip to nearby islands, does anyone have any advice on this? Also, I heard there were wildfires there recently and was wondering if that is all cleared up by now... Thanks!
Gary Lee: KC Summers, our resident Dubrovnik expert, is away this week. You might try again next chat. Meanwhile, anybody else out there know about Dubrovnik and those environs?
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Bon Voyage, Anne!: I apologize for asking a personal question, but I'm curious about your decision to head back to school. This is primarily due to me being a 20-something and paralyzed with questions about what I want to do with my life. What made you decide to go back to school?
Anne McDonough: I just couldn't take these working conditions anymore. Kidding! Just kidding! Leaving the Travel section was one of the hardest decisions I've had to make; I've been in exactly your position and just realized I wanted a new adventure, and that going back to school would make it possible. If there were any way to live two lives at the same time, I'd be here typing to you next Monday! Don't worry too much--it'll sort itself out as long as you keep your options open. And your passport updated.
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Alexandria, VA: sorry, but another question re the photo contest. If we have not heard, that means we didn't win, right?
For the honeymooner, I would recommend Belize. She can get everything she wants there, and lots more, for $3K.
Anne McDonough: If you haven't heard...actually, no one has heard. It's a well-kept secret so far. And thanks for the Belize idea!
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Annandale, VA: Dear Travel Crew: Help! I am stressing out trying to plan a weeklong getaway in early October to take with my boyfriend. I am looking for someplace that's a direct flight, is romantic, and where I won't feel pressured to sightsee. I've considered Lisbon, Amsterdam, Ireland, and Prague. I've already been to Italy, London, Paris, and Madrid. It doesn't necessarily have to be Europe but I thought I'd save U.S. travel for when I'm old and frail. Budget isn't too much of an issue but I'd like to keep costs low; and I'd prefer somewhere that won't be too cold. Is this a tall order? Any ideas? Thank you!
Andrea Sachs: We polled our resident cupids and here are their responses:
Bermuda, Vancouver, Slovenia, Marrakech, Buenos Aires.
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washingtonpost.com: Sicily: 'Agriturismo' Brings Visitors Down to the Farm, (aug. 5, 2007)
Anne McDonough: Some more ideas for the honeymooners...
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washingtonpost.com: there's No Place (Like Someone Else's) Home, (Aug. 5, 2007)
Anne McDonough:...and another!
Thanks for the links, Kim!
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Harrisburg, Pa: Hi Crew! I am thinking of doing a local Civil War tour over the Columbus Day Holiday (Gettysburg, Antietam, Bull Run), and am wondering if a day at each site, plus travel, would be enough time? I could possibly fit an extra day at one of the sites if necessary.
Gary Lee: I think a day at each, plus travel sounds fine. In fact, you might cover Antietam and Bull Run in a bit less than a day. Sounds like a great foray into history...
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New York, NY: I need to fly from New York (any airport) to Portland, Oregon for a long weekend -- the kicker is that it's at the end of August, so I no longer have 2 weeks' notice. The cheapest fare I can find is $600, but that seems exorbitant. Any chances of doing better, or is that a fair fare? (Ha.) Also, what are the good last-minute airfare sites to check out? Thanks!
Carol Sottili: Farecast.com, which predicts whether airfares in specific markets will go up, down or stay the same, says buy now, as fares will go up within next seven days. As for last-minute airfare sites, I don't know of a good one, probably because airfares tend to go up last minute, not down.
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Vero Beach, Fla.: A bit over a week ago, Airfare Watchdog listed an absurdly cheap fare from Orlando to Maui ($278 round trip). I checked, found that it was indeed available, and booked in a hurry. So now I've got to plan a low-budget five-day natural history trip.
My Honolulu informant says the Maui Seaside hotel near the airport in Kahului would make a good base of operations--affordable and "getting in and out of Kahului is pretty easy, traffic-wise, compared to Kihei."
The drive to Haleakala crater -actually a glacial valley, I think]is mandatory, and so are the silversword plants up there (some have been outplanted where they're easy to see. Wild ones are down a "killer" trail, at 10,000 feet, of course). Hosmer's Grove, just inside the National Park, has a loop trail with native forest.
Driving to Hana and on around the east part of Maui is also recommended. Waianapanapa State Park in Hana has native coastal vegetation including Pandanus forest. The road from Hana along the south side of East Maui goes right through native dry forest. Kanaio Natural Area Reserve is worth a visit.
This leaves a couple of questions:
1. Hana seems to have plenty of affordable bed & breakfasts. Do readers have any favorites?
2. The "road beyond Hana" along the south side of the island was closed for quite a while. I think it's back open. Has anyone tried it lately?
3. Is West Maui (Lahaina and vicinity) as overrrun with hotels and condos as it seems, with the heavy traffic that implies? I'd like to drive around that way if only to say I've gotten a look at the famous Honolua Bay surfing spot.
John Deiner: Hey, Vero.
I can't believe that fare...that's amazing. Good for you!
I can't answer Nos. 1 and 2 (anyone out there with some help?), but the Lahaina area is really built up. Still, it's a fun place, once you find a parking spot, and you're right about the traffic: It can be a real bear.
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Brazilian visa: http://www.brasilemb.org/consulado/consular1.shtml
Says 4 day processing time now. Not sure if biz visas the same. Poster better go in perso or use a service asap (if go in person will need to go back). Be sure of how payment must be made. And have all required documentation. Several people were sent back when I was there.
Gary Lee: Thanks for the smart and fresh advice.
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Hawaii digs for a month: Go to Craigslist / Honolulu site...either sublets / temporary housing, or housing swap. Lots of low- or no-cost optinos here.
Carol Sottili: Thanks.
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Trapped on a plane!: This one isn't about myself. Whenever I'm stuck in a terminal or on a plane for a long time, I do something mundane like read and listen to the iPod.
This is about a flight attendant on a plane where the passengers had been trapped on the tarmac (whether at Point A or Point B, after the first horrible delay) for hours due to inclement weather. She saw a fidgety child and made a big, entertaining display out of making "barf bag puppets" (her term, not mine), so the little girl could have some diversion BEFORE fidgeting turned into whining and screaming.
All hail the creative (and kind) flight attendant!
Gary Lee: I love seeing that kind of creative energy at work....
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20011: Wow, that Iceland layover must have been a LONG time ago. These days, they encourage people to go into the city or to the Blue Lagoon during layovers, and will ever coordinate a bus trip for you!
Gary Lee: That's correct. The Icelandic tourism folks now realize that those layovers offer a good chance for folks to see their fair country.
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Alexandria, Va: We're traveling across Canada by train, mid to late September, with one of the stops being 2 nights and a day in Toronto. Can you suggest hotels in center city, near the RR station (but not the price of the Fairmont!)? How about suggestions for a day of sight seeing (again, center city and on foot or subway)?
Cindy Loose: First off I'd check out what's on at the theater---Toronto has some great shows. Secondly, google the name Shirley Lum for an awesome tour of Chinatown. (Be sure to eat dim sum at the Bright Pearl if you like dim sum.) The Bata Shoe museum is one of the oddest museums you'll ever visit.
As to hotels---HELP! I remember rather liking the Royal York, which a year or so ago was going to $120. Anyone else have favorites?
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Delayed at Home: I was stuck at National for about 5 hours last year. My husband and I were going to take Metro to get there, but while waiting for the bus a sudden and very intense rain storm started up. So we caught a cab (after getting completely drenched) and got to the airport much earlier than we would have with the bus. We were already going to be a bit early since I planned for that (last time I got stuck in an incredibly long security line and almost didn't make it through). So we ended up being super early, and to top it off our flight was seriously delayed. But we couldn't leave and come back, because they kept telling us "only one hour" and then "only one more hour," and so on.
We were soaking wet, absolutely freezing, and had tons of time to kill. First stop was to the restroom to dry out under the hand blower. I held my shoes under it for awhile - they had been making squishy noises while I walked. That took some time. Next, we went shopping and explored the airport. It was actually kind of fun and I ended up buying a nice shirt I wore on my trip. We kept meeting other people who were going to be on our flight, as everyone was shopping and talking about the delay. Finally, we had a long, leisurely lunch.
We ended up missing our connecting flight in Chicago, but thankfully, there was one more flight going to our destination and we made that. But we had to wait a few more hours there, too. By then we were tired of airport exploration, so we just read. All this just to spend a weekend in Little Rock.
Gary Lee: Sounds like getting there wasn't the best part of your trip. Thanks for the story...
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Going back to school: Anne, what will you be studying?
Anne McDonough: I'm doing a masters program in library science so that when I hear of a Chinese photographer who needs an archivist and second shooter, I'll be ready.
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Stuck in the Airport: I was stuck at Newark for 12 hours on Friday, June 8th because of the freak computer outage of Air Traffic Control and storms on the East Coast. I killed the time by watching the breaking news updates on CNN (This just in - Paris Hilton to be escorted back to jail...) and making friends with my fellow strandees and the airport personnel. The guy working our gate was fabulous - kept us informed, kept his sense of humor, etc. It was a long 12 hours, don't get me wrong, but it could have been SO much worse.
Gary Lee: Glad you were able to see the positive side of it. Thanks.
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Other dunes: Great sidebar with the Dunes story - finally got to Kelso Dunes last winter, and found it a perfect contrast to Vegas - the restored Kelso railroad depot nearby is a real desert oasis and worth a stop.
Wish you'd also recognized Indiana Dunes. For anyone traveling west through Chicago, it's just a few miles off of I-90 and makes an easy break. Besides - the natural beauty of the place will help you make it though the industrial grit of The Region of Gary and NW Indiana.
Cindy Loose: Yes, Indiana Dunes are amazing. I chose to focus on places that offer particular activities, though, and am unaware of special events on the dunes there, although they're worthy of a visit just to see, and to take a swim in their shadows.
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Small Town USA: Friends,
I would like so much to go to Southern California, specifically LA and experience the Getty, Santa Monica galleries,the Disney Concert Hall and that sort of travel. I detest the idea of navigating the city on our own; we are baby boomers, so we would like to avoid the senior tour. Any slightly more hip art and architecture tours you could steer us towards? Thanks!
Anne McDonough: One tour idea is the neon tour of LA...a link should be coming right up!
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Pittsburgh, Pa: For Washington looking to rent in Hawaii for 6 months: if you'd be interested in doing a house-swap instead of renting, you might like to check out:
http://www.homeexchange.com
I have teacher friends who've done this several summers and like it.
Carol Sottili: Another good idea.
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Circling over LGA: I always travel with a briefcase full of all the magazines I never have time to read at home--preferably thick ones like Vanity Fair--as well as several paperback books that I don't want to keep. That way I can always pass the time by reading on the plane or in the airport, and can discard the mags or books or pass them on to other travellers when I'm done so they can keep their sanity as well.
My goal is to be reading the last page of the last magazine as my plane touches down at my home airport.
Gary Lee: I take the same approach -- to catch up on magazine reading during a trip -- and haven't never been bored. Thanks for sharing that story.
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For the Passrider: Please think twice before trying to fly a pass with your mother on a paid ticket. Flights are so much more crowded now than they were even a few years ago that there is a very good chance that you will not get onto the flight where your mother is. And the airlines often cannot or refuse to accommodate the passriders because you are at the discretion of the airline, rather than a paid passenger.
If it were me, I'd cough up the money and fly on a paid ticket if I were trying to fly with my mother. Save the pass for when you're on your own or with someone who can fly independently if you get divided.
Cindy Loose: Ah, good advice. I wasn't focusing on the issue of a pass rider not being able to book in advance.
But in that case, might it be possible the airline would give her a seat in a special circumstance? Their policies probably don't allow for it, but might a nice agent just slip her an advance seat assignment? If she's not booking a long time in advance, she could also check to see if the flight is, at this point at least, very full.
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Bronx, NY: For the individual traveling on the airline employee pass who may buy a ticket for Mom: be very sure -you- will be able to get on that flight, too! I've flown on passes before, and since it's essentially like traveling standby, you run the risk of getting bumped if the flight's full. I've been bumped; I've also been upgraded to business class. In your shoes (I have a parent with dementia, too), I would just go ahead and buy two tickets. This way you have a "positive space." Then when it's time to fly, do all of the things the Crew recommends for getting the seats you want/already have booked, and also speak to a human at the airport and to the stew as you board so that the crew knows your situation. Good luck, and I hope you and your mom have a good trip!
Cindy Loose: Thanks for the advice from those lucky folks who qualify for passes on flights.
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Washington, DC: Anne, I am so sorry to see that you are leaving. I have always enjoyed your perspective on traveling. Best wishes!
Anne McDonough: Why thank you, DC!!! I hate to be the one leaving!
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Annapolis, MD: Once on business I was stuck in the Kansai, Japan, airport for the better part of a business day. Had to check out of the hotel and kill time till a late work obligation. Thank goodness for available lockers to put my stuff in (backpack and work laptop). And for a -lot- of shopping in the airport. I browsed shops, went to the post office and got stationary and stamps to write to my grandmother, had a nice meal, and generally explored the (outside-of-security) airport. Fortunately it's a pretty nice place.....there's even a department store.
Gary Lee: Thanks for that story. It could win you the prize!
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Hana tips: First of all, the road past Hana was closed when I was there at the beginning of March, so be sure to ask when you're there. My biggest tip, one that we didn't follow, it seems like you're already on top of, which is staying a night in Hana. Drive to the "Seven Sacred Pools" (not their real name, but how they're marked on a lot of maps) on your first day and spend as much time there as possible. Then after you spend the night in Hana, stop at various places on the way BACK...if you stop at too many on your way TO Hana, you'll never make it to the Sacred Pools (trust me...we didn't, and we regretted it!)
As far as West Maui, Lahaina is great...and it's really not that crowded, so don't be scared. The most crowded area is between the airport and Lahaina, so if you stay past Lahaina, you're fine, and just take an afternoon in Lahaina!
John Deiner: And there we have it . . . some tips on Hana and Lahaina. (Though, gee, when I was in Lahaina a couple of years ago in -- in January, mind you -- the place was mobbed.)
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Annapolis, MD: To the lady flying on pass with her mother.....
You should address the likelihood that you'll be bumped and your mother will not. I've flown on pass myself. Sometimes it goes without a hitch, sometimes you're bumped from several flights before you get to your destination.
I'd consider -not- flying on pass when accompanying someone who isn't completely independent (small children, elderly family, etc). It's a good way to fly if you're alone, but bad if you're trying to coordinate others too.
Cindy Loose: WE've got numerous votes for pass holder to buy a ticket to fly with mother who suffers from dementia.
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Delayed airport activities: How has no one mentioned this yet? Um -- Bar meet my belly, belly meet the bar.
Snowstorm in Detroit going from National to Grand Rapids and I had bartended the night before a 6am flight, so obviously I just stayed up and caught a cab at 4:30am. Landed in Detroit around 7:30am and found out we'd be delayed for a few hours. It was happy hour for me since I had been up for almost 24 hours at that point!
Gary Lee: Cute story. Sounds like you were in your element. Thanks.
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To Vero Beach, Fla.:: The road and the end of Hana in Maui was not open when I was there 2 weeks ago. There is a bridge out and we were told it wouldn't be in operation any time soon.
John Deiner: Excellent stuff...an almost up-to-the-moment report. You guys rock.
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For the $3000 honeymooners: France would certainly work for you...especially if you're not set on too much time in Paris, which is pretty expensive right now.
We are researching staying in Brittany for a week in Oct., and are finding many many apartments.cottages with kitchens on the northern coast for 400-500 Euros for a week...many from the sites the Post ran in a recent article. The beaches in the eastern part of Normandy are also very nice, and very reasonable, though weather depends on when you're going.
Anne McDonough: Thanks for the tip! And the link to the article mentioned here should be higher up in the transcript...
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Bethesda, MD: Iceland...it's cold. Does it really make a difference whether on visits in January or June?
Gary Lee: Of course it does. It's a cool place but the season determines what kinds of distractions to pursue. Summer in Iceland is summery. You can explore the geyser and other cool stuff outdoors. Winter is quite nippy. You can drink Black Death, shop and do other indoor pursuits.
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Anonymous: Is August a good time to go to Australia and New Zealand?
Andrea Sachs: There is never a bad time to go Down Under. But there are good and great times, and August falls between the two.
The countries are coming off their winters, so you will have early spring-like conditions in many places, such as Melbourne and Hobart. (However, Cairns is always hot.) New Zealand seems a bit chillier (Queenstown averages 50; Auckland, 59) than its neighbor, and you might be able to squeeze in some late winter skiing. The main advantage of August, however, is that it is not December or January, the peak travel times when lots of folks are on vacation.
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North Bethesda, Md: admittedly, I haven't finished reading the dunes article...but please be aware that driving vehicles, as any activity on dunes, really ruins them. Sledding/boarding is less invasive than a vehicle...
Cindy Loose: Riding or even walking on the fragile dunes at a place like Asseateague Island would destroy dunes. But I was convinced by parks service people that the dunes at Oceano are very sturdy, that on days the wind blows hard, they are like glass and show no signs of the vehicle tracks, and that comparing the dunes today to the dunes 100 years ago, you see no differences. Secondly, less than 10% of that particular dunes complex is open to vehicles, and that complex of course is only a tiny fraction of the California beach front. I came away thinking they should concede to the Sierra Club demands that there should be no night riding--which sounds dangerous anyway--and that the area fenced off for birds should be fenced off all year, not just during the nesting season.
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stuck in airport : the problem with being stuck in an airport if you never know how long it'll be. If you know from the start it'll be 3 hours, you can go buy a book and settle in. But you and the staff are always thinking "just a few minutes more," so investing in a book, getting dinner, and other long-term solutions don't seem right until the hindsight 4 hours later. "if I'd known I would have been here that long..."
Gary Lee: How true. But even if it's just a few minutes you can still crack a few pages of a book or magazine.
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San Jose, Calif: I'm going to the Bahamas the third weekend in October for a wedding, and I have a question about airfare. When the wedding was first announced, about a month ago now, airfare was around $350 from the Bay Area. But the bride and groom weren't 100% on the date, so I didn't buy. Now airfare is hovering around $450. So my question is, buy now, or wait? Does a fall sale to the Caribbean seem possible or likely?
Carol Sottili:$450 from the West Coast to the Bahamas isn't all that high. If it were me, I'd buy now, expecially if that price is good for convenient flights.
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LAX delay advice : When I was stuck at LAX for about 15 hours last year (from 7a-1030p), I took a cab to Santa Monica. If you have the time, LAX near lots of beaches that are much closer (Manhattan Beach is only 4 miles away).
Gary Lee: Very good point. Thanks.
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Sandy Spring MD: I hate a flight "etiquette" question. I just recently had a flight from Los Angeles to DC. I sat next to an older woman (60s) who clicked and smacked her lips the entire time. This was truly annoying. She also chewed her gum loudly, and smacked/clicked that too! I tried headphones, but could hear her noises through my in-flight movie and iPod. I didnt ask her to stop or anything, fearing it wasnt my place. How would have handled this? I had to sit and be totally annoyed for 5hrs!!!
Anne McDonough: You happen to have hit on a total pet peeve of mine.
I would not have been able to sit tight next to someone doing this. There are things people can't control--and perhaps the lipsmaking was one of them--but gum chewing is COMPLETELY controllable and there's no reason to sit there and let someone else's bad habit bug you. I'd say something after the first few minutes--perhaps not "you're chewing like a cow" but something more along the lines of "would you mind not smacking your gum?" but in a much nicer tone than it sounds in print. It may not work, but it just might.
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Solo travel: I am the person who wrote in two weeks ago about taking a trip on my own in between jobs. Well I did it! I took everyone's advice and booked a trip to Vietnam and Cambodia and I leave this Friday. I did end up booking a tour through Intrepid after talking to a friend who did the same one. I am a bit nervous- more about the 16 flight to Tokyo than anything else though. Otherwise I cannot wait! Thanks for all the great advice!!
Gary Lee: Glad to have been of help. Sounds like you made the best of it...
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washingtonpost.com: Bright Lights, Big Neon in L.A., (June 11, 2006)
Anne McDonough: For the LA-bound...thanks, Kim!
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Alexandria, VA: Hi, just wanted to respond to a letter in the 8-4 travel section, in which a reader suggested that "Since no food is served and no blankets or pillows brought, why don't the airlines save some money by reducing the number of flight attendants to one, whose sole purpose would be to explain the safety procedures and bring coffee to the pilots?"
Perhaps this was tongue-in-cheek, it doesn't read that way - but at any rate, this is not a decision for the airlines to make. FAA regulations require (if I recall correctly) one flight attendant for every 50 seats on a plane.
Thus a 737 that seats 140-or-so passengers must have at least 3 flight attendants. This is why you probably won't see a commercial airliner that seats 51 or 201 passengers, as that 1 would mandate another flight attendant.
The letter seems a bit demeaning to flight attendants, but I won't even get into that. Most FAs on my flights are totally friendly and pleasant.
John Deiner: Hey, Al. I agree on flight attendants. It's a tough gig, and for the most part, they perform their job admirably in often incredibly difficult situations.
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Solo Travel: I think it's an advantage to be a woman traveling solo. Invitations into people's homes, where they hand you their baby so they can stir the mutton, are much more common that way, so unique and make for a much better story than some banal and half-informed description of the local tourist attraction. It's much easier to sink into the culture when I'm alone, and it never happens when I'm with the boyfriend or with more than one other female friend--you're too isolated that way to be approachable. In my case it's Central Asia and Europe for the most part, including some Muslim countries. Can't say there's ~never~ been a problem, but if you conduct yourself with integrity, such occurences are fantastically rare, and the advantages in my case have more than made up for any small, (let's call them) misunderstandings.
Gary Lee: Good thought. Much thanks.
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Solo Women: I have almost always traveled solo (am now 50),always with no problems, including cities such as Istanbul, Marrakesh, and Cairo. Dress conservatively, learn at least a little bit of the language to get by with waiters, taxi drivers, etc. (French often serves well as a back-up if Arabic or Vietnamese, etc. is beyond you), stay at reputable hotels, and consider hiring a guide (through the hotel) if you are hesitant to make your way around the city alone.
Gary Lee: Nice tip, thanks.
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Delays: My husband and I were delayed for 6 hours (3 in the airport, 3 on the runway) at National earlier this summer. We filled the time by making friends with the Gordon Biersch bartender, and watching the first season of "24" on our iPods. The time actually went by relatively quickly...after 2 beers!
Gary Lee: I tell you...beer works many wonders. I am glad it did the trick for you.
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Silver Spring, Md.: Wow, after reading CoGo this week I think I will never fly United again! Of course I have already purchased tickets on United for Thanksgiving. Darn lowest prince to SFO. Should I be worried about my stroller?
Also, how do I find out if my carseat fits into a United seat? Thanks.
Andrea Sachs: Make sure the car seat is FAA-approved (the tag should read that it is appropriate for aircraft) and that is no wider than 16 inches (you can also ask your airline for its seat dimensions).
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One more thing about Maui: Don't stay at a hotel near the airport like your friend suggested...you'll regret it. Stay either in West Maui or even in a small town like Paia, especially if you're considering moving around.
John Deiner: Makes sense to me . . . why go to Hawaii and listen to airplanes drone over the whole time? Thanks for the chiming in.
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Pittsburgh, Pa: I used to pass time waiting in airports, train stations, bus terminals (as well as in transit) knitting -- preferably on a large project I'd just started, so it wasn't yet unwieldy but had the prospect of near-endless hours of entertainment (also a great conversational ice-breaker with other travelers, if they were so inclined). Perhaps one of the Flight Crew can tell me whether a large circular double-pointed plastic knitting needle is permitted on flights any more.
Gary Lee: Thanks for the thought. I don't think that needles would make it through security these days even if they are plastic.
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3 weeks and 3 girls, anywhere on earth: To celebrate 10 years of friendship, two of my college roommates and I want to plan an adventure for this October. In your opinion, how should three 28 year-old girls, who have more time then savings, spend about three weeks of vacation? Between us we've seen a lot of the USA and Western Europe and were looking to expand our travels. Please help!
Cindy Loose: With more time than money, I'd think first about how much it costs to get to a place, then about how much it costs once you get there.
I initially thought "Eastern Europe," but it's more expensive to get there than to Western Europe. Ditto Asia. Have you thought about Mexico or Canada? Would you be thinking about driving some---for example it could be cheap to fly to Vermont or upstate New York then you could rent a car and go to Montreal, Toronto, Quebec City, and countryside treats in between. Once you start figuring the cost for three people to take buses and trains, a car might suddenly look good.
Mexico is a little more exotic, if you like beaches, you could fly relatively cheaply to Cancun then head to small towns, Mayan ruins and such.
The Caribbean also occured to me, and Puerto Rico is pretty cheap to get to and reasonably priced once you're there, but personally I'd be hard put to find enough things to do to entertain myself there for three weeks.
Canada would be my top pick in your situation.
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Honeymooners: The person who suggested renting a boat made me think of a vacation my friends took in France. They did a canal trip but did not rent their own boat. They paid to travel on a barge with a chef who cooked for them every night. The chef bought produce and wine in whatever town they passed that day. They could hang on the barge and watch the scenery, or take the barge's bikes to explore the countryside and meet up with the barge later. Sounded magnifique.
Anne McDonough: Now that sounds like a decadent way to travel! Sign me up!
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Stuck at the airport: I was once delayed at Bamako's airport (in Mali) along with an Italian journalist. We passed the time watching the goatherd shoo his goats around the fenceline...
Gary Lee: Lovely. Did you take pictures?
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RE: Dubrovnik: I just got back from Dubrovnik last Thursday. They are indeed having wildfires, but they're fairly high in the mountains so it probably won't impact you too much. When I first walked into the old town, I noticed that it smelled like a brick-oven pizzeria, which turned out to be burning trees. In the afternoon, we walked around the old wall and the light was gorgeously pink because of the fire. Although it's a shame about the fires, it made for some beautiful photos. They also have an interesting system for putting out the fires which involves a sea plane scooping water from the Adriatic and flying up into the mountains to dump the water. You can see the whole process from the marina.
Gary Lee: Thanks for that insight.
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Adjuntas, Puerto Rico: Big Decision.....Africa or Australia?
From Africa Im interested in Victoria Falls and Madagascar....from Australia
Uluru/ Ayers Rock (perhaps a visit to New Zealand?). Im planning to travel alone
(female) and Im looking for a package around $3,500 for 12 to 14 days maximum.
Small groups is a must. My main interest is nature and science...Where should I start?? This is for 2008 by that time I will be in DC. THANKS!!!
Cindy Loose: Wow, tough choice. I think you need to see a travel agent who sells both continents to narrow down your choices more. I would say---go for the 14 days, since you lose two in travel, and are jetlagged a couple more.
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For Anne: Anne - I've always loved reading your stories. So sorry you're leaving. I can't imagine leaving the travel section. Tho I long ago moved from the DC area, yours is the section I read first thing on Sunday morning (albeit online because I can't get delivery in my town). Best of luck in your new career!
Anne McDonough: Why thank you! And hopefully you'll still see my byline occasionally...just as a "special to."
Thanks for reading us first!!
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French Francs: I know that at least in Spain you can line up at the Ministry of the Treasury in Madrid and exchange the pesetas for Euros (even coins). You might be able to still do this in France. Just involves you going there! But, hey, you have more cash for the trip...
Andrea Sachs: True, but if you are in stuck in the States...
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passing the time: Whenever my flights are cancelled, I pass the time by running around the airport trying to get on another flight. It definitely makes the time pass quickly! When it's just a delay or long layover, I catch up on phone calls to friends I never seem to have the time to call amidst the everyday craziness at home.
Gary Lee: Good ideas. You seems to know how to use time wisely.
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Fairfax, Va: Experienced a "trip from Hell" last week, complete with cancelled flight, rebooked flight 1 1/2 hrs late, lost luggage and 1 1/2 hours at Avis trying to get a (reserved) car. Question: United could not tell us why our flight was cancelled, other than code "KF" showing as cancellation cause in the computer. (Weather was generally unremarkable.) Ticket agent clained not to know what tht meant. Any idea what "KF" means in United-ese?
Cindy Loose: I have no idea what KF means---any airline experts who might know. Sounds like "killed flight," but that wouldn't give much insight either.
I get why airlines don't pay to put people up and feed them when a flight is delayed or cancelled,but can't understand why they can't give them info.
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Washington, DC: I'm traveling to Turkey at the end of Sept./Oct. with my family. I've read in my Frommer's guide that many restaurants are still unofficially segregated. Is it safe to assume that since the guide was written for Westerners, the restaurants recommended in there will be ok for my family to eat at since we obviously want to stay together? Also, my sister and I are vegetarians but we're wondering how well we'll fare since we'll be avoiding a lot of the fresh produce due to warnings of unpleasant reactions, if you know what I mean.
Anne McDonough: You should be absolutely fine sitting together--if you go to a place where it seems not to be the case, then just head to the next restaurant. As for being a vegetarian there...I was there for two weeks and lived on the pizza--and absolutely loved it. You'll be around a lot of meat but will find plenty of things to eat. Don't worry!!
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Knitting Needles...from TSA website: Transporting Knitting Needles & Needlepoint:
Knitting needles are permitted in your carry-on baggage or checked baggage. However, there is a possibility that the needles can be perceived as a possible weapon by one of our Security Officers. Our Security Officers have the authority to determine if an item could be used as a weapon and may not allow said item to pass through security. We recommend the following when bring knitting needles on an airplane:
Circular knitting needles are recommended to be less than 31 inches in total length
We recommend that the needles be made of bamboo or plastic (Not Metal)
Scissors must have blunt points
In case a Security Officer does not allow your knitting tools through security it is recommended that you carry a self addressed envelope so that you can mail your tools back to yourself as opposed to surrendering them at the security check point.
As a precautionary measure we recommend that you carry a crochet hook with yarn to save the work you have already done in case your knitting tools are surrendered at the checkpoint
Most of the items needed to pursue a Needlepoint project are permitted in your carry-on baggage or checked baggage with the exception of circular thread cutters or any cutter with a blade contained inside. These items cannot be taken through a security checkpoint. They must go in your checked baggage.
Gary Lee: Thanks for that research.
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Annapolis, MD: Wait---please- don't propagate that 'knitting needles aren't allowed on planes' thing. Read the TSA rules. For the most part they -are- allowed, domestically, at least.
I'm a pretty avid knitter, and this comes up -frequently- on mailing lists and chat groups. I almost always travel with knitting, and have never had a problem (though once in Tokyo the security guy had to look through my accessory bag--too much metal in one place, I guess. But he saw they were crochet hooks, smiled at me, and handed it back.......).
If you're concerned, bring bamboo or wood or plastic needles.
Gary Lee: I did not mean to say that the needles are not allowed. But I have seen them being taken away from a traveler, probably by an over eager security agent. It's great in those situations to be aware of the rules.
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Iceland is dark in the winter: And very light in the summer. Remember how far north it is--and think how light sensitive you are. If darkness makes you sad, go in the summer.
Gary Lee: Good point.
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dunes: thanks for airing opinions that riding the dunes was destructive, even though you felt OK doing it. I'd say, EVEN if it was technically OK at that spot, why encourage an activity that is overall BAD. It's like giving alcohol to your young kids: maybe you've got a controlled situation now, but why teach them it's ok when overall it's bad? Whynot take joy in walking the dunes, why buy into that beleif that you can only have fun if you're roaring making noise going fast? REDEFINE what enjoying NATURE is about, let's return it to NATURE. Paddle on a lake instead of speedboating and stop destructing our environment for the sake of "fun." Be ONE with nature and see the fun in that.
Cindy Loose: I hear you. I am a nature lover, and if made benevolent dictator of the world would impose some very Draconian rules that might make even Sierra Club members squirm. But I really felt that while riding the dunes wasn't the best thing to do for the environment, neither is most of what we do for pleasure. The pure environmentalist would stay single and go to bed at dusk and never leave the house. Once we've turned away from that extreme, we all draw our lines somewhere. But again, as benevolent dictator, ATV riding would be low on my list of priorities for action.
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Falls Church, Va: There used to be a group called Change For Good that took your foreign coins and bills if you offer then and do charity work in the coin's home country.
Cindy Loose: It still exists, unicefusa.org.
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I'm traveling to Turkey at the end of Sept./Oct. with my family. I've read in my Frommer's guide that many restaurants are still unofficially segregated.: forgive my ignorance. Segregated between genders? No women allowed? I don't even know.
Cindy Loose: Segregated by men and women, although that's not all that common, at least not compared to say Saudi Arabia.
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Gary Lee: Thanks all for the questions and for bidding Anne and for bidding Anne a fond farewell. Thanks, too, for the good answers about passing the time when flights are delayed. lots of good stories there. I like the one about the flight attendant using bark bags to entertain the kids. It shows a lot of creativity. If the person who sent in the story can e-mail me at leeg@washpost.com, I'll make sure you get the prize.
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