Talking Fashion

New Fall Looks

Fall fashion took a hairpin turn from last spring's frothy creations. Polish is the new byword. Deputy Editor of the Sunday Source, Suzanne D'Amato, and washingtonpost.com Fashion and Beauty Editor, Janet Bennett, answer your questions about how to adapt your wardrobe to fall's new structured looks.

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Suzanne D'Amato: Good morning! Do you have fall fashion on the brain? I do now; I was in New York this past weekend, and though the streets were a sea of empire-waist dresses and gladiator sandals, the stores were stocked with cold-weather gear galore. There were lots of schoolboy-inspired blazers, sweater dresses and floaty tunic blouses. (My verdicts, respectively: Love it; no thanks; and jeez -- can we move on, already?)

While I wandered around town, I took careful notice of each store's denim selection. As I wrote this past Sunday (link to follow), women's jeans sales have been on the decline, but you wouldn't know it from looking around upscale retailers such as Barneys, Bergdorf and the like. I saw a lot of chic new styles at fairly outrageous prices.

Okay, enough about me. Let's talk shop!

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washingtonpost.com: Denim: In Or Out? (Post, Aug. 26)

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Silver Spring, Md.: Hello,

I do not look good in a pencil skirt. However, I cannot find a suite (or suit separates) that do NOT include a pencil skirt. Does anyone make an a-line skirt? Or more generally, where have you seen great a-line skirts for fall? Thanks!

Janet Bennett Kelly: I saw a couple of suits sans pencil skirts at the Banana Republic. Badgely Mischka, which has a new less expensive line that's carried by Saks Fifth Avenue, also has suits with flared skirts. And J Crew has a few flared skirts as well.

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Cleveland, Ohio: What are your favorite brands or stores for mid-priced shoes that are stylish, yet comfortable? My price range is typically under $100 (except maybe for amazing tall boots!) -- I generally spend $50-80 (or less) on a pair of shoes. I like Nine West and Kenneth Cole Reaction. Any others?

Janet Bennett Kelly: Finding affordable shoes that fit is a problem for me, too, but this summer I discovered BCBG Girls at Macy's. They're less expensive than the BCBG line and very cute. I also like Via Spiga, but that can be pricier. Seychelles and Chinese Laundry carry shoes in your prescribed price range.

Have you ever tried DSW? I scored a great deal there: $60 on a pair of Italian-made shoes that originally sold for over $400.

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Puffy Ski Jacket: Hello Fashion Ladies,

I bought a super cute, cropped, lavender North Face puffy ski jacket in December of 2005. I wore it a few times. Obviously, I bought it for style -- I do not ski. Then my husband and I moved south. I got "she is crazy" looks when I wore it in the "cold" 48 degree temps of our new city. Are they still in style? I want to wear the heck out of it when I travel this winter.

Janet Bennett Kelly: Yes, they're still in style, and if I were you, I would definitely wear the heck out of it, too.

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Alexandria, Va.: Re: The Fall Fashion Forecast in this past Sunday Source. I find that skinny jeans can be interchangeable with leggings and hosiery in general. I think of them as a layering piece. They work on all body types as long as you balance them out with a fuller and longer silhouette on top.

Suzanne D'Amato: Thanks for writing in. This can work, but you do need to find a top with a decent amount of structure -- I've seen women try this combo with very fine cotton tops, and you can see all of the seams/pockets on the skinny jean. The result is bunchy and just...bad. Sort of a weird granny-panty effect.

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Arlington, Va.: I need jeans advice! I am very tall, with big feet, and skinny on the upper half, curvy on the bottom half. I hate skinny jeans, they just accentuate my thick hips. But flare jeans seem very high school. Boot cut jeans? I am not sure they're so flattering to my big feet ... what would you suggest?!

Suzanne D'Amato: At this point, boot-cut jeans are feeling a bit mom-tastic (no offense, Mom!). But one of the new high-waisted styles would be great on you, as they tend to flatter the very tall. Just look for a style with more of a wide-leg, as opposed to a flare. You're right that the latter can look a bit retro. ...

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Washington, D.C.: I'm looking for a good, basic, black cardigan and it's harder to find than I thought it would be. I'm large-chested, long torso-ed and small-waisted, and I can't find a black cardigan that fits me. Any suggestions? It's driving me nuts!

Janet Bennett Kelly: I recently saw some cardigans by Theory -- I don't know whether they were navy or black, though. Splendid often has cardigans and so does Vince. Try Barney's and Lord&Taylor.

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Schoolboy-inspired blazers: Where would I be able to find a cute fitted one that doesn't cost over $150? J Crew has some outrageously priced blazers. ...

Janet Bennett Kelly: I saw one by Tommy Hilfiger that was not out of sight. Also, try Loehmann's and Filene's Basement for bargains on blazers. Even Brooks Brothers boys' dept.

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Omaha, N.E.: My wardrobe is mostly jeans, T-shirts and a few sweaters. What one or two pieces would provide the most help in bringing me up to date with fall's look?

Suzanne D'Amato: I'd suggest a dress that's as short as you can stand (for some women, this would mean a knee-length style; for others something considerably more revealing -- let your legs and your confidence level be the judge).

Then, perhaps, a dressy day shoe. There are a lot of fall styles that feature black-tie detailing -- brilliantly colorful satins, ruching, platforms, jewel accents -- but are meant for daytime. One of my favorites: Marni's peep-toe flat in sleek olive satin. You may not want to go quite that high-end (and in fact, you can find similar styles at Nine West, etc.), but a shoe like that could do a lot to dress up what you already own.

Happy hunting!

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Denim help: If boot-cut is mom-tastic and skinny jeans are for about 10 percent of the population -- what's a girl to do?

Suzanne D'Amato: Well, what a lot of girls have done is to move away from denim in favor of dresses and the like. Hence the decline in sales. But to my mind, the situation is not quite so dire! I know some consumers find it boring, but I still think that you can't go wrong with straight-leg, dark denim. It's not as exaggeratedly tapered as the skinny jean, and not so trendy as some of the wide-leg styles. Men's departments are great for finding these, and I also like A.P.C. -- not cheap, but as fashion investments go, the store's offerings are basically trend-proof.

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Arlington, Va.: Where's a good place to look for a new briefcase/satchel? I'm a young female and I've about had it with my black nylon Nine West tote. The laptop sleeve and organizing compartments were nice, but I'd like to take a step up ... maybe something in saddle-colored leather? Banana Republic had some nice shapes, but they seemed a bit on the narrow side for a laptop plus some folders ... Coach is a bit out of my price range ... and everything else that looks big enough is more generic messenger-bag-like.

Janet Bennett Kelly: The bags that are on the market these days are so large, you hardly need a briefcase. For example, I just saw a large satchel on the Maxx New York Web site that could easily double for a briefcase. Club Monaco also carries satchels that are reasonably priced.

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Arlington, Va.: I'm a gal, but I love wearing ties. In fact, I love a nice three-piece suit too. Glad to hear the polished look is in, but how can I keep my knack for masculine styles looking feminine?

Janet Bennett Kelly: Shirts with bow ties and ruffles and pleats are very in this season, and pairing one with a pencil skirt or a pair of tweedy slacks would add a feminine touch. By the way, menswear for women is very in vogue this fall.

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Petite clothing: This question seems to come up periodically, but never adequately answered. There is a significant dearth of fashion choices for petite sizes -- that is, short women with varying proportions, not the regular small "xs" or "s" that might fit a quite thin, small chested and hipped woman. Ann Taylor, Banana Republic, Talbot's and Land's End are cookie-cutter fine, but not fashion. Very few pieces of designer brands are made in petite, and often they're not great choices for shorter folks. Realistically, is this a market that ever is going to be addressed by fashion? If not, what do you see as fashion options for petite women?

Janet Bennett Kelly: Do you know that Saks Fifth Avenue has a whole department devoted to petite sizes -- they carry Ellen Tracy, Dana Buchman, et al. Also, Eileen Fisher makes petite sizes, too.

Suzanne, any input?

Suzanne D'Amato: You might also try vintage, if that's your thing. A lot of the dresses, in particular, seem to have been made for more petite women. And depending on how petite you are, you may be able to shop the "regular" height sections of department stores -- I'd try booking an appointment with a store's in-house personal shopper (this is free, by the way), who can help you rifle through the racks and find specific brands/cuts that fit and flatter you.

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Washington, D.C.: I am so sick of all my summer clothes and ready to shop for fall. But I'm on a tight budget -- I can't afford the cute boutiques in Old Town or U street. Where can I find cute stuff cheap? It doesn't have to last forever either, as long as it looks good now. I already know about H and M, anywhere else?

Janet Bennett Kelly: One of my most fashionable friends makes regular stops at Ross. There's also TJ Maxx, Loehmann's and Filene's Basement.

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Bethesda, Md.: I have a large chest and broad shoulders. I would like to buy one of the trendy cardigans for fall, but am afraid that I will look like a NFL linebacker. Can you recommend an alternative or a type of cardigan that would be slimming?

Janet Bennett Kelly: Avoid the really fluffy ones and stay with a flat knit without a lot of detail.

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Washington, D.C.: I really want an Hermes Birkin. Can I just walk into the McLean store and ask for one? Will they laugh at me?

Janet Bennett Kelly: If that's what you really want, go for it. There may be a very long wait, but if you're willing to endure, why not? Who cares if they laugh, anyhow?

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Washington, D.C.: If there is just one item to buy for this fall what would it be?

Janet Bennett Kelly: That's a tough one. My own personal choice would be a suit because you can get so much wear out of it.

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Georgetown, D.C.: What do you think about Phillip Lim's designs? Worth the money?

Suzanne D'Amato: I very much like Lim's sweaters and jackets, though I don't own any personally so I can't speak to the line's quality. They're classic enough to see you through a few seasons, but with high-design details that make them look unique.

Lim is part of a group of contemporary designers that I like (to the list I would add VPL, Alexander Wang, United Bamboo, Ulla Johnson and a whole bunch more I haven't had enough coffee to remember). As prices on true "designer" fashion (Chloe, Balenciaga, etc.) continue to skyrocket, these brands stand to have their day in the sun -- or on the sales floor, at least.

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Foggy Bottom, D.C.: Suzanne, Janet: This is not really a question to be addressed in your chat today, but a suggestion for a more in-depth article. How does one dress for retirement? After nearly 40 years in the working world, where I planned my wardrobe and shopped carefully (Loehmann's, Syms for designer items), my "fashion situation" has changed dramatically as I am sure it has for many other retirees. Although never a fashionista, I would like to continue to dress nicely, but where to start on a reduced budget? How do I adapt what I have in my closet now? Are there stores that I should try that I haven't in the past (Target?) I really would like to have a plan in place and I think you have many other 60-ish readers who would find answers to these questions helpful. Thank you very much.

Janet Bennett Kelly: Start with your own closet before you go shopping. You probably have a lot in there that you didn't think you could wear anymore, but you'd be surprised. Because everything old is new again, some things you bought years ago are fashionable again. And, yes, Target can be a good source for some additions to a wardrobe. Some of their things are made better than others, though, so you have to check carefully.

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Denim isn't dead!: At least, I hope not.

I have a question about bootcut vs. flares: Most of my jeans are a few years old and have slight flare openings. They are generally in the 9" range (on size 27 lowish-rise jeans). Is that too wide or still acceptable? I'm willing to have them tapered and/or buy new ones, but I'd rather not if I don't have to.

Thanks!

Suzanne D'Amato: Granted, I didn't bring my tape measure to work with me today, but your jeans sound like boot-cuts. That said, if you don't feel like buying new jeans, you shouldn't! Try getting them taken in (I've never done this before myself, but if you do it email me and let me know how it goes). Or change up the jeans' look by dyeing them a rich, saturated color -- that's a big trend this season.

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Washington, D.C.: If I'm looking to finally invest in boots this fall (I need extended-calf ones and the quest is endless), do I want black or brown? Brown seems newer, but will it go with my mostly-black clothing?

Janet Bennett Kelly: Personally, I like black and brown together, so that would be okay for me. Just depends on your wardrobe.

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Washington, D.C.: Over the summer I must have bought six babydoll dresses. What am I supposed to do with them now?

Suzanne D'Amato: You might try belting them in for a new look -- there are plenty of well-made waist cinchers out there for fall, from very broad corset styles to skinny belts meant to be looped around the middle a few times.

And in the future, it's not a bad idea to tread cautiously when you decide to buy into a very trendy style. I don't know how expensive your dresses were (H&M or D&G?), but if there's something out there that I know is a Major Look at any given moment, I try to limit myself to one of them, at most.

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Washington, D.C.: I am stuck in a work outfit rut. As summer comes to a close I think I have worn out my short sleeved summer sweaters. But when I look in my closet I have no inspiration! I come to work feeling blah and looking blah in my gray blazer that I've owned for three years now. Ick! What would you suggest?

Janet Bennett Kelly: Don't worry, Washington, it's just that time of year, when everyone is sick to death of their summer wardrobe. It's still pretty hot outside, which makes it difficult to shop for fall clothing, but why not shop for some accessories to liven up what you already own? How about a patent clutch in a color or shoes in metallic or a belt?

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Silver Spring, Md.: Speaking of dresses -- wrap dresses truly flatter me and I have worn them since college. I'm so sad that they were in fashion again the last few seasons, since I fear my collection will now seem dated/mom-tastic (I love that word!). Can I continue to wear them as my summer/fall staple or do I actually need to invest in opaque hose for minidresses. ...

Suzanne D'Amato: Note to the women of Washington: Retire the wrap dress. Just for a little bit.

Please? Pleeeeeeeeease?

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Charlottesville, Va.: What's your opinion on the following outfit:

Sport coat (e.g. Harris Tweed), white T-shirt and dark blue jeans?

I'm a guy, by the way.

Thanks!

Janet Bennett Kelly: A little but dull, mostly because of the white T-shirt. You need some color!

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Cube: I LOVE that dresses are back in style, and I have have accumulated quite a few tis season ... what is the best way to transition my warmer-season dresses (short sleeved, sleeveless etc.) into fall. I feel like I should be able to wear a lot of dresses year round and that's why they are so great. Can I pair them with the new swing jackets? How about with tall boots? Will it be totally odd to have a sleeveless dress and tall boots even if the dresses are fall-ish colors? (I have a lot of saturated blues and black/brown combos). Thanks!

Janet Bennett Kelly: I think pairing a sleeveless sheath dress and tall boots is very in vogue. And here's an idea for a bit later: top your dress with a tough leather jacket and get yourself a pair of lace-up boots for a bit of a punk/rock 'n' roll look.

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Boot toes?: What shape is currently fashionable? Square, pointy, round, etc.

Janet Bennett Kelly: Pointy toes are back in style.

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Washington, D.C.: What is the difference between boot cut and straight leg? Can you give approximate opening measurements?

Suzanne D'Amato: These measurements questions ... I really should have brought a tape measure with me to work today!

Let's see -- a standard boot-cut is probably about 18 inches. A straight-leg is more like 14-16. A skinny might be around 12, or maybe a little less than that. How wide/not your jeans appear will vary based on your height, how hippy you are, if you have muscular calves or lil' bird legs, and so on. So these are just approximations.

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Washington, D.C.: I'm in my upper-20s, working for a pretty conservative non-profit. I came out of much more liberal office environments than this one, and I'm looking for some semi-dressy work clothes, but I really, really can't afford to break the bank. I checked Macy's, but I was really disappointed with their fall selection. Any ideas other than Ann Taylor Loft?

Janet Bennett Kelly: Banana Republic has a couple of cute fall suits that would work for work. Discount stores like Loehmann's and Filene's are at their peak now, so if you plan on going, don't waste time.

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Rockville, Md.: I had a baby recently and am looking forward to shopping for some new, non-maternity clothes for fall. Please tell me what trends I should look for that will help hide by still slightly-protruding belly. I'm looking for both work and casual styles.

Janet Bennett Kelly: Suits are big this fall, and I've seen several with cropped jackets and flared skirts, which I think could work at hiding a slight tummy.

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Washington, D.C.: I just moved to D.C. from Atlanta and know I should think about purchasing a winter coat before it's too late (and too cold!). I'm on a fresh-out-of-college budget so do you have any recommendations on good places to look? Also, I've only had neutral tones in the past and am thinking about getting a bright and fun coat this time around. For someone who normally wears a lot of black, what might you suggest?

Janet Bennett Kelly: Coats in bright colors are very in this season. Marc Jacobs showed a bright red one in his fall collection, and I've seen some red ones at J Crew. If you're not quite up to that, there are plenty of coats in tweeds that would at least be more fun to wear than your basic black.

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Alexandria, Va.: Does investing in expensive clothes really mean that they are better quality and will last longer? I usually buy Banana Republic and J. Crew business casual stuff (typically on sale or at their outlets), but it seems to wear out pretty quickly. Now, this may be because I have a smaller wardrobe and wear the items every week or two, which means more washing/dry cleaning, but I'm not sure I can let myself make the leap to more expensive things if they will also wear out with frequent washings/wearings. Can you make me feel more confident about investing in clothing?

Janet Bennett Kelly: It pays to invest in expensive clothing when it's an item you're going to wear frequently, say, a coat or a suit. Dry cleaning and frequent washing does tend to wear out clothes more quickly, though, no matter what you buy.

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Oxford, Ohio: How do you manage all the different heel heights and pants lengths in your wardrobe? Most of the time, I feel like I have to buy pants to match a new pair of shoes or vice versa. I've been thinking about buying all of my heeled shoes the same height, just to make mixing things easier, but then there's the whole issue of flats! Tailoring doesn't necessarily help, because then I can only wear one pair of my shoes with one pair of pants -- flexibility is limited. Any advice?

Suzanne D'Amato: Well, I only ever wear one shoe height -- flat -- which greatly simplifies things. That said, I think you might be over-thinking the heel-height/pant-length combination a bit? I mean, I'm all for classic slacks that break in just the right spot on the foot, but designers are really mixing it up these days and I think the rest of us should too. The designer Thom Browne made his name with playfully shrunken suits for men and women -- I'm talking high-water pants and child-sized jackets. Not that you want to take things to that extreme, but as long as your hems aren't dragging on the ground, mixing up lengths and proportions might let you take a new look at what you already own.

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Arlington, Va.: Can you recommend a good tailor for taking in a suit jacket (is this possible)? I have a nice one that is too roomy around the bust because I happen to be very skinny up top (i.e. boney!). Thank you

Janet Bennett Kelly: I can't vouch for how they'd handle a suit jacket, but I recently had a good experience with getting pants tailored at my neighborhood Georgetown Valet. They have several locations, including one on Clarendon Blvd. in Arlington.

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Washington, D.C. : So what kind of tops am I supposed to wear with my skinny jeans (casual)?

Suzanne D'Amato: Generally speaking, you want something that will give you more volume up top, to balance out that pin-thin lower half. But since that blousy tunic-top thing is feeling a little played out, adding volume vis-a-vis layering might be a fresher way to go for fall. Perhaps a longish top layered under a cropped blazer, with a crafty scarf knotted at your neck? (Of course, I'm thinking about this for Oct. Do not try this in the late-summer swelter!)

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Washington, D.C.: Are skinny jeans still fashionable? What are your top five must buys for the fall?

Janet Bennett Kelly: Did you read Suzanne's story on Sunday? She mentioned that skinny jeans are turning up in super-saturated colors, so, yes, they're still fashionable. My top buys for fall include a coat, a suit, a sweater jacket, a pair of boots and a pair of high-waisted jeans.

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Davidsonville, Md.: This is more of a comment than a question, perhaps, but I'd love to see fashion advice suitable for us boring middle-aged types. Many of the styles you highlight are adorable, but to my eyes, not appropriate for anyone much past their early 30's.

I'd like tips on how to incorporate new styles in ways that are appropriate for us, errr, mature women. I'm always classic, tailored, classic, tailored, and would like to look current in a way that doesn't scream "trying to hold onto lost youth!"

Janet Bennett Kelly: Hi, Davidsonville,

From one "middle-aged type" to another, let me just say you're in luck this season. Tailored and classic are the new styles this season!

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Fredericksburg, Va.: I love to wear legging, but I'm not sure what to wear them with this fall. I tried the jumper craze, but I end up looking like a 15-year-old instead of a 25-year-old. Any suggestions?

Suzanne D'Amato: Leggings are a youthful look -- pair them with a jumper, and the combo would not seem out of place at the fourth grade spelling bee. I think a more sophisticated dress is your answer ... something with polished, or possibly menswear-inspired, details. No ruffle hems, Peter Pan collars, or ironic Winnie the Pooh prints. Got it?

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Coats: Thrift shops are a good place to get winter coats for good prices. Go to one near an upscale neighborhood and you can last years style for pennies on the dollar.

I just got a brand new Columbia raincoat for $10 that was $120 in the catalog.

Janet Bennett Kelly: Thanks for the tip. Consignment stores are also a good pace to look for coats.

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Flat boots: I read in the most recent "InStyle" that a knee-high flat boot is a great thing to own because it's so versatile. If I already have high-heeled knee-high boots, do I need a flat pair also? What would I wear the flat pair with that I wouldn't wear the heeled pair with?

Suzanne D'Amato: Flat boots look better with short skirts, so if you like minidresses and so on, they're a good investment. They're also great to tuck skinny jeans into -- sort of an equestrian-inspired look, but the denim makes it feel a little more edgy.

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Mom-tastic I am, I am.: What do you think about jeans on older women? I am 67, but I sure don't want to dress like an old lady. What kind of jeans do you recommend for older women, if they may wear them? If not, what kind of slacks are acceptable?

Suzanne D'Amato: Ha! Thanks for writing in. You definitely can continue to wear jeans, and my advice to you is the same as what I like myself: Straight-leg, dark-blue denim without any trendy bells and whistles. Invest enough time to find a style that really fits. When you do, buy three pairs.

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Janet Bennett Kelly: Thanks, everyone for joining our discussion. That hour just flew by. Suzanne and I will be back again at the end of September and beginning in October, we'll start doing these our chats twice a month. In the meantime, check out Fashion & Beauty on washingtonpost.com. I'll be doing a fall roundup of new fashions next week!

Suzanne D'Amato: Thanks for joining us -- I wish we had time to answer every one of your questions. We'll see you again in about a month.

In the interim, if you'd like to continue chatting about fashion and style, please check out my new discussion group, TrendSpotter & Co. Link to follow. ...

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washingtonpost.com: Trendspotter

Suzanne D'Amato: Here's that link.

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Editor's Note: washingtonpost.com moderators retain editorial control over Discussions and choose the most relevant questions for guests and hosts; guests and hosts can decline to answer questions. washingtonpost.com is not responsible for any content posted by third parties.