The Post's Flight Crew: (from left to right) John Deiner, Carol Sottili, Steve Hendrix, Anne McDonough, Gary Lee, K.C. Summers, Cindy Loose, Andrea Sachs.

The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of ... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.

We know you have a choice in online travel forums, and speaking for the entire Flight Crew, we want to thank you for flying with us.

You may also browse an archive of previous live travel discussions. For daily dispatches, check out Travel Log, the Travel section's new blog.

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Gary Lee: Yo, fellow travelers!

Gary Lee acting as your captain today. Besides myself, we have a stalwart crew aboard, including a couple of recent newcomers. In all, we've got Travel section editor KC Summers and Deputy editor John Deiner. We also have staff writer Andrea Sachs, and the newcomers -- editor Scott Vogel and reseacher/news aide Christina Talcott.

Go on ahead and ask us any travel-related question you've been wondering about. We'll do our best to answer. But you should also feel free to add advice or tips.

Today's question is about foreign languages. Between us, we can make do in quite a few foreign tongues and they are often put to good use. But what about you? Ever been in a situation where a language helped you break through a foreign culture? Any bloopers in translation you'd like to tell? Or has not knowing a language deterred you from visiting a place? The best answer wins you a prize: a 2008 calender based on Patricia Schultz's 1,000 Places To See Before You Die.

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Chicago, Ill: Just got back from Toronto, an amazing world-class city, and good for anyone who needs a short trip.

Stayed at a hostel (I'm 40) for $25 Canadian a night. Saw a bunch of great films at the festival and explored the neighborhoods and the Toronto Islands.

The cool part was U.S. customs in Toronto on the way back. He asked me where I lived. I said, "Chicago." He said, "Why?"

I know to expect the unexpected at customs. So my answer was, "I'm not sure I can answer that." He said, "Well if you can't answer that, you should be on your way."

The shortest, nicest exchange I have ever had at customs.

Gary Lee: Hey, much thanks for the Toronto field report. I always have nice experiences in that city.

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Rugby: I love it whenever rugby gets brought into the American consciousness, so I hate to complain, but...

Why would you print a primer on attending the Rugby World Cup a week and a half after it began? Don't you think it would have made a whole heck of a lot more sense to run it at least two or three weeks ago?

KC Summers: Yeah, probably. But this was predominantly a scene piece, a sort of "letter from Paris" about the rugby craze that's gripping the country right now, and the writer added info about the remaining matches in case the piece whetted anyone's interest. Serious fans presumably were already knowledgeable about game venues and dates. But you're right that the piece would've been more useful if it had appeared earlier.

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Please Answer!: I'm going to Borneo from NYC in mid October. Would you suggest going east through Europe or West through like Japan...? Thanks!

Scott Vogel: As a matter of fact, your question, which we didn't get to last week, was featured in the "Chat Plus" article in yesterday's Travel section. Everyone weighed in on the topic, from the Post cartography department to my son (a budding geographer). The consensus was that although traveling west would be the shorter distance as the crow flies, in most every case we checked, traveling east would involve a shorter travel time (quicker connections, less change of planes, etc). A combination of Singapore Airlines and Malaysia Air seems to be the way to go if you're bent on going west, however, and you won't lose all that much time.

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"dream maps": My travel bug is dying to go on a vacation this fall. I'm fairly flexible about dates and locations, so I'm trying to decide where to go based on finding a good airfare to an appealing destination. Any recommendations on the best way to find good fare deals when my location and dates are flexible? I'm thinking something along the lines of Travelocity's "dream map" but am wondering if there are other sites/tools I should use. Thanks!

Gary Lee: Kayak.com has a new weekend fare finder; you plug in your dates and it will tell you what deals are possible for weekend getaways around that time.

Anyone else have thoughts on this?

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7 Wonders: Forgive a stupid question, but why is Dulles Airport on the list of nominees? Is this an ironic nomination or am I missing something?

Definitely rooting for Skyline Drive and the National Mall, and for school pride sake, the Lawn (go Hoos!)

Christina Talcott: I was wondering the same thing! Last week I started reading about it, and it turns out Dulles was hot stuff back when it was built in 1962. Finnish architect Eero Saarinen, who's also famous for designing the Tulip and Womb chairs and the Gateway arch in St. Louis, designed the terminal building, and in 1966, it won an award from the American Insitute of Architects. The airport was, at least for a while, a Washington landmark, with its unique wing-shaped roof. Anyone out there rooing for old IAD?

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Boston, Mass: I'm pretty good with languages and frequently go to countries where I speak at least enough to get by, but not always. In Vienna, I spent a good 5 minutes using my pocket dictionary to try and read the menu at a street vendor, before the woman pointed out to me that it had English on the right. And in Romania, I only really managed to get one word down, "thank you", but using it got me tons of smiles and good will as I pantomimed my way through train tickets and the countryside.

Gary Lee: Hey, thanks for sharing your languague experiences. Learning thank you in Romaninian might just win you a prize!

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HdG, MD: I hope my mother-in-law isn't reading this today, but my funny language story has to do with a visit to Costa Rica. she wanted to call ahead to a hotel and ask them something. I reheresed "Hola, habla ingles?" with her several times before she called, including right before she dialed. Then she called, and the first words out of her mouth were "Hello, do you speak English?" ARRRG!

Gary Lee: Nice cute story. Even if she's reading this, it's still a cute story, one that puts you in the running for the prize.

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College Park, MD: I am mobility impaired (arthritis, in need of a knee replacement, minor heart condition). I have been considering an Alaska cruise for my next vacation, but since I've never done a cruise of any kind, I'd like some advice. Will I be able to get around the ship? Get off at ports of call? (Several of the sites mention tenders ferrying passengers to shore -- how hard is it to get into one?) It sounds like most of the standard ports of call have bus tours, but any advice for someone who can't walk very far?

John Deiner: Hey, CP. Sounds like you have a lovely trip under consideration, and we'll let the Clicksters weigh in on it. I think most cruise lines try mightily to accommodate the mobility impaired, which makes sense as many folks on cruise ships are elderly. There are plenty of elevators to get to the various decks on ships, plus handrails are everywhere. And personnel on ships are always willing to lend a hand when necessary, including buffets and the like.

I frequently see folks who have trouble getting around getting around just fine on a cruise, including port calls. Tenders can be a little tricky if the water is choppy, but it's a matter of climbing a ramp and perhaps taking a few steps down and up. And again, there's frequently a helping hand nearby.

Anyone out there with some definitive advice from an Alaskan cruise? Should College Park go or not?

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Alexandria, VA: I missed last week's chat and saw that you had asked this question: "What's the worst or best thing that happened to you on your summer vacation?"

I kind of wish I had been able to submit this then because my answer is half-snarky: We were booked in business class on British Airways roundtrip Dulles to Copenhagen, via Heathrow, for a cruise. On the way home they upgraded us to first class at the gate (VERY nice). But they also managed to leave our checked baggage in London (at least it was on the way home). We got the bags 36 hours later, so I guess it wasn't so bad because we also beat everyone else through Customs because BA already knew our bags were missing before the plane landed. So....a blessing and a curse, huh?

(The cruise, a Holland America cruise around the Baltic, was really quite outstanding, so it's hard to say that flying in first class was the "best" part of the trip, but it's the bizarre circumstances that cause me to offer this story.)

John Deiner: Hey, Al. A good story is a good story, whether it's a week late (like your luggage) or not. Thanks for the late chime-in.

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Reston, VA: Thinking about heading to Ireland next June/July (around the 4th) with my boyfriend. I found tickets on Aer Lingus from Dulles to Dublin for under $700, which I thought was a great deal. But we don't necessarily want to stay in Dublin the whole time and want to know how feasible it is to rent a car and see some of the countryside and some other cities. Is renting a car in Ireland a big hassle? Also, would an Ireland/Scotland itinerary (namely Edinburgh) be too much to handle in 6 or 7 days? Any info on Ireland/Scotland is appreciated!

KC Summers: Hey Reston. That is a great fare for summer. And while Dublin is wonderful, you really should check out the Irish countryside too -- the island has some of most spectacular scenery anywhere, especially in the west and in Northern Ireland.

It's very easy to rent a car, if you keep a few caveats in mind: In most cases the roads are narrow and winding, and frequently bordered by unforgiving stone walls, so take it easy and remember that while distances may appear short on the map, it can take longer than you'd expect to get from point A to point B. Also, it's highly likely that you'll get a flat, so be prepared for that. Signage can be iffy or nonexistent. Also they drive on the left, so that can add to the challenge. I found it all very manageable, though. Bottom line, there's nothing more fun than exploring Ireland's small villages and towns, stopping at pubs, hearing music, chatting up locals, etc.

As for Scotland, you know that's on a separate island, right? Or were you thinking of splitting the trip up and renting two separate cars? If so, I think that's just too much for one week. Save Scotland for next time.

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Arlington, VA: wouldn't the shortest route to Borneo from NYC be straight up over the pole and then back down? I think that usually qualifies as going "west" though. You can probably take the Thai Airways non-stop from JFK to BKK and then make a connection from there to Borneo or perhaps via KL or Singapore.

Scott Vogel: Getting there via the shortest distance would absolutely involve going over the pole, and as you say, we counted that as a western route. Thanks for the tip on Thai Airways. There are lots of ways to get there, no?

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Washington, DC: We are going to Buenos Aires in a few weeks--my first trip to a non-European country.

I have heard conflicting reports on the exit fee that is (?) levied when you leave the country. Some people claim you don't have to pay it and that it's a "tourist tax"--the officials never check for the receipt it's been paid.

My question then is this: is there an exit fee when leaving Argentina?

If so, how much? When and where do you pay it? Do you pay it in US dollars or Argentine pesos?

Any other pecularities for traveling to and from Buenos Aires? Advice? I am looking forward to my first visit to the Southern Hemisphere, and of course, lots of beef and red wine and gelato....

Gary Lee: We have not been to Argentina but when last we checked there was departure tax of US $25 per passenger. Does anyone have first hand experience?

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Chantilly, VA: There's a big group of us thinking of meeting up over the holidays and going skiing someplace. There will probably be about 30 of us - 16 adults and 14 kids. Most of them are in Philadelphia with some of us in DC and I'm in charge of coming up with the arrangements. I'm thinking probably somewhere in New England or New York State that would be the most likely to have "good" conditions during that time of year. Where would you recommend - probably should have a focus on intermediate terrain. Thanks.

Andrea Sachs: There is no way to know how the conditions will be, since Mother Nature is so undependable these days. However, the more north you go, obviously the more likely you will find snow--real or fake. In that case, pick a resort near a town, so you can have activities if the snow blows (sorry, couldn't help myself). For example, try Stowe or Sugarbush (near Burllington, Vt.) or Killington (Vermont). Or base yourself in Woodstock, Vt., which is near a host of snow activities. (I personally am not a fan of New York skiing; I found Hunter Mountain to be as crowded as Broadway.)

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Silver Spring, Md: I have extremely weak command of several languages. In Istanbul, I was riding in a crowded tram with my mom when I nice older man decided that, since I was white, I must speak German. Turns out, I can muddle through, so we had a nice chat about his decades as a laborer in Germany. (In an ideal world, this anecdote would end with us being invited to his daughter's wedding and enjoying days of feasting and whatnot, but it was just a chat on a crowded tram. It was cool, though.)

On the topic of languages: I'm kind of thinking about going to Poland and maybe Lithuania next year. What's the language situation? Will I be able to get by in English, or should I learn some Polish? (Or would my time be better spent brushing up my German?)

Gary Lee: Thanks for your story. It's nice when the effort we put into languages becomes useful.

As for Poland and Lithuania, in my experience, the situation is different in the two countries. Lots of Poles speak French so if that's one of your tongues you can probably use it there. In Lithuania, lots of folks speak English, so you should be able to use that there. Still, learning as many phrases as your time will allow is probably a good idea.

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Saint Petersburg, Fla: Hello Crew. What's the latest on passport application

turnaround time? I meet all the State Department's

requirements for renewing my expiring passport by mail

(which I assume is quicker than applying for the first time).

Thanks.

Andrea Sachs: On Sept. 7, the State Deparment said passport processing time was back to normal: six to eight weeks for routine passport applications; no more than three weeks for expedited service.

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Arlington, VA: I'm not sure the answer to the Argentina exit tax, but isn't it likely to be included in the taxed you pay on your plane ticket? I know many countries work it that way.

Gary Lee: True, in some countries the tax is rolled into the ticket price. Argentina is not one of them.

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Argentina: I just went in April and they did charge the departure tax. And I'm pretty sure you had to pay it before you could check into your flight but I may have the order backwards. BA is fabulous you will have a really great time. It's a very european feeling city with the bonus of cheap meat and tango!

Gary Lee: Thanks for the answer. Yes, we also have heard that BA is a like a bit of Europe in South America...

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Bethesda, MD: Two language anecdotes. On a hiking trail in Utah, a young German couple handed me their camera with the request "Would you please take a photo from us?" While driving in the Spanish countryside looking for a hotel, I got lost. I stopped at a gas station where the attendant spoke no English (and I, saldly, no Spanish). He gave me directions that included turns, a traffic signal, and a highway underpass. All mostly in ad hoc sign language and a few words whose meaning I was able to guess -- e.g., I think semaphoro (SP?) is a traffic signal.

Gary Lee: Funny! So did you take a photo from that poor German couple?

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Washington, DC: Hi Travel Crew. After reading over some of the recent transcripts, I can't believe there are people actually angry about people reclining their seats on airplanes. That's what the recliners are there for! (though I agree, you shouldn't recline during meals) If I leave my seat up the entire flight, I am guaranteed to have a stiff neck by the end. If the person in front of you reclines, instead of being passive agressive and leaning your head on the table (c'mon this isn't time out), you can easily recline your own seat. The person behind you can do the same. Not only would everyone be more comfortable, they'd be flying in style

KC Summers: Well, I think the point of a lot of the people who wrote to us is that the reclining capability made a lot more sense before the airlines began crowding more and more seat rows into their planes. It's simply not feasible to recline your seatback in these days of virtually no legroom. So yes, people are angry.

How is it being passive-aggressive to use the tray table as a headrest? It doesnt affect the ability of the person in front of you to recline (more's the pity). It simply gives you another shot at trying to get comfortable.

Also, it's not as easy as just not reclining during meals. What if the person behind you wants to use his or her laptop, for example?

I personally don't recline my seat because it's invading the space of the person behind me. Simple as that.

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Dulles, VA: Six years ago this week, my husband and I were having a snack on the banks of the Seine during a weekend visit to Paris, waiting for our bateau-mouche tour. We didn't realize until the boat pulled up that we wouldn't be allowed to bring our bottled drinks aboard, so I had to dash back to the ticket counter to toss our drinks. There was no rubbish bin, so I turned to the ticket seller and was somewhat astonished to hear the phrase "Avez-vouz une poubelle?" coming from my mouth. I'd forgotten that I even knew the French word for trash!

Gary Lee: Cute answer. You may get a prize for pulling that phrase from the back of your mind!

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Parlez-Vous Francais?: After five years of French in school, I felt adequately prepared to visit France. Everyone I know loves KinderEggs, so my sole mission was to bring home these beloved chocolate/toys as gifts. At one bakery we visited, we asked for "douze" (12) eggs; they thought we said "deux" and were confused when we motioned for more. After repeating douze several times, they finally understood and were shocked why any American would want a dozen chocolate eggs.

Christina Talcott: I hope you were able to get them home in one piece! Every time I try to bring KinderEggs back from a trip, they invariably wind up crushed. (And yes, this has happened to me several times.) Do you pack them in egg cartons, I wonder?

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Car hire in Ireland: For the poster going to Ireland, remember that almost all the rental cars are manual-shift (automatics cost considerably more). Not an issue I've ever worried about, and I didn't think it was hard driving a right-hand drive manual, but I know lots of Americans do not know how to drive a manual, and trying to learn how while also driving on the other side might not be a good mix.

KC Summers: Excellent points. Thanks.

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Arlington, VA: A number of years ago, in my first job out of school, I worked for a publishing house that was doing an English translation of a Russian-language reference work. One of the editors from the Soviet publishing house came to New York to visit our offices, and I was deputized to meet him at Kennedy Airport and get him to his hotel. So I arrived at Kennedy, went to the Pan Am desk (Pan Am was handling Aeroflot at that time), and asked them to page him. The young lady from Pan Am was very obliging and immediately paged my party -- in English, of which he did not speak a word. I told her that she would have to page him in Russian, at which point I found out that Pan Am, despite handling all of Aeroflot's arrivals and departures, had no one on duty who could speak Russian. So I said, OK, let me do it -- and the Pan Am woman handed me the microphone. My voice boomed out through the international terminal, and about ten seconds later, there was Mr. Gusev, arriving passenger from Moscow.

Gary Lee: Hey, otlichno, well done!

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Columbia Heights: We're travelling to England for the holidays, looking at

Dec. 20-Jan. 2 due to work. (and flying on the cheap on

x-mas eve is out)

Is premium economy worth the extra money? I've seen

mixed reviews online. And should we just book now? I

can't imagine any deals coming down the line.

We'll mostly be with family in Norwich, but do want to

spend 2-3 days in London. Where can we attempt to find

reasonable hotel prices?

John Deiner: Hey, CH. In my limited experience, flying premium economy is well worth the money, particularly if anyone in your party is over 4 feet tall. You get a much more comfortable seat, and the extra leg room is priceless. (I know Carol Sottili feels the same way about this.) If you're comfortable with the price you're finding, I'd book now since the seats are available -- the longer you wait, the better your chances for missing out.

As far as "reasonable" hotels in London, start with www.venere.com and www.laterooms.com, both of which offer discounted lodging for European destinations. And go to www.londontown.com, a hub of info on ye olde town; it offers a discount booking service for rooms.

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Gaithersburg, MD: Last year I went to Italy to meet the family that didn't immigrate to the US in the 50s with my father. About half the family lives in Calabria, and the older ones don't speak Italian, they speak Calabrase. It's pretty much a totally different language.

Well, I was trying to communicate to my Zio Domenico (I speak and understand a little Italian), and I thought at one point he called me a potato. I leaned over to my mother (who also speaks and understands a little Italian) for a little help. For some reason, the idea of my elderly uncle calling me a potato gave us both a major case of the giggle-fits. The rest of the family thought we were nuts!

What he had actually said was "Do you like potatoes?". It got better when we found out a few days later that a "potato" is also a slang word for a fat girl!

Gary Lee: Sounds like you had fun with that. He must have been miffed by you giggling over a question about your taste for spuds...

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Stuttgart, Germany: I never let a little thing like language stop me! Learning a few key phrases in another language can be very useful, and almost everywhere I've traveled, I've found someone who spoke at least some English. It's even worked to my advantage, such as the time the Korean artist invited us in to tea so that he could practice his English. We left his shop with the gift of a beautiful teacup that he had made.

Probably the most creative way around a language barrier that I've experienced was when I toured the Shilla Kingdom in Korea with my friend; she translated for me, and I interpreted her accented English for an English-speaking German tourist, who in turn, translated the guide's commentary for his companions!

Gary Lee: Nice story. It's experiences like that that bring folks from different language backgrounds closer together.

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Alaska cruise: We went up there on a Holland America itinerary in 2005. To the other poster, I'd say go for it--the cruise lines are very experienced in dealing with passengers with mobility impairments and you shouldn't have any major problems. You may not be able to go on certain shore excursions, but doing your research before you book them should make it clear which ones to avoid. The cruise lines do a pretty good job of offering a variety in this regard too.

(Please take the cruise line's recommendations seriously as to whether an excursion will be strenuous--other passengers justifiably resent it if someone ignores the blurb about "lots of stair-climbing required" and then complains about climbing stairs. I speak from experience when we got stuck with someone who ignored the blurb.)

John Deiner: You are so right. Generally people should NOT ignore those blurbs, and not just on an excursion. Any lengthy, strenuous trip with a group can be destroyed by just one person who's not up to the task.

That said, great stuff on Holland America and cruising.

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On language: In high school I traveled to the Netherlands with my mother, who was born there and speaks Dutch fluently. Not that speaking Dutch is really a necessity in Holland, as most everyone speaks English. Nevertheless, hoping to impress a waitress in a restaurant, I got my mother to teach me how to ask for directions to the restroom, and we practiced it until I had it down. I walked up to the waitress and proudly asked my question. She took one look at me and replied, "Down the hall to your left." They always know an American.

Gary Lee: Yes, somehow we're hard to miss. Thanks for the story.

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Language: I took French for awhile - both througout HS and in College and it has really come in handy. The romance languages are similar enough that knowing one definitely helps you when you have to try to understand any of the others - I know that Spain, Chile and Argentina (for Spanish) and Italy (Italian) were a lot easier because of my french. Although the place it helped the most was in Morocco since I speak zero Arabic - it definitely made it easier to get around.

KC Summers: This raises an interesting point. I recently returned from a trip to Ecuador and figured that my knowledge of French would really help me communicate. But it barely helped at all. My traveling companion, on the other hand, used her Italian almost interchangeably with Spanish and everyone seemed to understand her. Are there really that many more similarities between Italian and Spanish than there are between French and Spanish? Apparently so.

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Thanksgiving travel already!: Hi Crew,

Should I be happy with $270pp direct flights to Chicago from DC for Thanksgiving weekend, and a $20 per day car rental? I am feeling good about it but worried to act to early...

Thanks!

John Deiner: Hey, there. I'd be really happy with those prices myself. Even if something better comes along, it won't be that much less, and you'll sleep better knowing you're all set.

Our rule: If you're feeling good about it, go for it.

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Languages: I was stuck in a slow line at JFK many years ago, behind a couple who had come from Europe and missed their connecting flight. The (English-only) ticket agent was patiently trying to explain what had happened, but wasn't getting anything but glazed looks. I glanced over and saw that the woman of the couple had a "Hello, my name is" badge from a German travel agency, so I explained to her in German what the ticket agent was trying to tell her. She was very grateful, but her husband still had the same glazed look. Finally, when I translated into German the ticket agent's statement that their new connecting flight left from LaGuardia and the airline would pay for a cab to take them from JFK to LGA (this was MANY years ago!), the woman said to her husband in Croatian, "We don't have to pay for the cab." At that point I repeated the whole explanation to them both in Croatian -- it just happened that I was a Slavic languages major in college. Both of them were extremely grateful, as was the ticket agent. And the line finally moved.

Gary Lee: I like this story! It's nice to have put your langaguage skills to good use...

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"Any bloopers in translation you'd like to tell?": I was in a pub in Edinburgh with some friends in April 2006. Scotland had passed a smoke-free law the previous month. One of my friends who is a smoker stood up, pulled on her coat, and announced that she was going outside to "blow a fag."

Gary Lee: Right... Hope she enjoyed it...

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Arlington, VA: I know it is very early for this, but my husband and I are going to San Diego for a conference next July. Neither of us has ever been. Any tips on what to see and do? We're not really "beach" people as it is. Also, when should we start looking for airfare, and how much do you think is a fair price to pay?

Andrea Sachs: Fares should be in the $250 to $300 range. Start looking as soon as possible! For non-beach attractions: the zoo, of course, SeaWorld and the Birch Aquarium; the museums, gardens and theater in Bilboa Park; the ferry to the island of Coronado, with a requisite cocktail at the Hotel Del; hike, horseback ride or exploore any of the county parks, such as Mission Bay Park; catch a Padres game at PETCO Park in downtown; shop and eat in the Gaslamp District.

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Washington DC: I read French adequately, but pulled out a dictionary when faced with an elegant menu with various types of fish I hadn't heard of. The waitstaff saw and offered me an English menu. I felt a little better when I realized I didn't know a lot of the English words either. But I was also happy when I realized that I had misread "ris de veau." I thought it meant veal with rice, which I was considering ordering. I was reminded that "riz" means rice. "Ris de veau," on the other hand, is veal kidneys.

Gary Lee: Hey, I think before learning French I made that mistake and ended up with a huge plate of kidneys.

Thanks for the story!

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car rental in Ireland: another point for the would-be driver in Ireland--it's one of the few countries excluded by a lot of US insurance agencies, so you need to get special insurance to drive there--the exhorbitant kind offered by the car rental agency. It's because apparently Ireland has one of the highest car theft rates in Europe. (!!) I can't remember all the specifics, but it's definitely something to look into before you go--call your own car insurance company here.

KC Summers: Which brings up another point. It's also one of the countries where car rentals are restricted past a certain age -- I believe it's 75. So be sure to check that too before you go.

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Arlington VA: Not sure if this fits in your translation question today...but several years back, I took my mother with me to Belgium. At the first restaurant we went to, she asked for water with her meal, and the waitress asked "Gas?" - meaning did she want carbonated water. Mom, on the other hand, thought of a completely different kind of gas, and turned a brilliant shade of red. I believe her answer was "No, I don't think so...." It was pretty funny!

Gary Lee: Thannks for sharing. Sounds like you've had a few laughs over that one.

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Re Buenos Aires tax: I ws in BA in May and if memory serves me right it was 27 USD. Be prepared for queues. After you check in, you then need to join another queue to pay this tax, then you go upstairs to join several other queues for various security/passport checks.

Gary Lee: Thanks for the news from the front.

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Washington, DC: I have rented cars with automatic transmissions at Heathrow, Shannon, the Lisbon airport, and the Avignon train station. Rather expensive. I booked them from the states using a travel agent. I once tried to find one on Rhodes, but no dice. Probably only available at central locations, and book in advance if possible.

KC Summers: Yeah, it's tricky. Also, it's so expensive to do this in Europe that it might pay to master a stickshift before your trip. Always nice to add another skill to the repertoire anyway, eh?

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Washington, DC: I speak Russian, and was travelling in Lithuania in 98. I got horribly lost in Vilnius. I think I got on the wrong bus or maybe in the wrong direction. All my guidebooks and common sense said that ethnic Lithuanians weren't too keen on speaking Russian, so I was trying to muddle through with English. I was so lost, I finally just walked into an office building and asked for help. The man I found didn't speak English. He asked if, I think, I spoke French, which I didn't. He may have asked about Spanish too. I then even asked "Ivrit?" (Hebrew) to which he shook his head no. Then, in desparation, I finally said I spoke Russian. He broke into a wide smile and said "Why didn't you just say so? Hold on" He then ran down the hall to find a friend to come look at the American who not only spoke another language, but Russian of all things! They both then spent about 20 minutes helping me figure out where I was, where I was going, and which bus would take me there. I was greatful! And, they totally got me to my hostel.

Gary Lee: Hey, as a Russian speaker who has traveled around Lithuania, I fully appreciate your story. Spacibo!

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Getting Along: I don't speak Italian, but I DO speak Opera... and it's amazing how much that helps. I may not know what the word MEANS, but I will know how to spell it, and can thus look things up.

After all the smiles and shrugs and apologies for being a simple American, Opera and Music really do help.

Gary Lee: Thanks for the nixe story.

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Arlington, VA: My future-husband I are are leaving on Sunday for our honeymoon in Bali, Indonesia. Do you think we will be impacted by the Sumatra earthquakes?

Scott Vogel: First off, congratulations are in order. Second, if it's any consolation, the recent Sumatran earthquakes did not impact Bali at all, at least according to several onsite bloggers who wrote that they didn't feel a thing. Then again, Bali is obviously in an earthquake-prone zone. One thing you might do is keep up with the latest seismic information this week via the U.S. Geological Survey site:

http://earthquake.usgs.gov

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Montreal: I'm interested in a long weekend trip to Montreal, but the fares up there seem rather outrageous, even in the winter! (Especially since the flights themselves are something like 1.5 hours long.) Any thoughts on when would be a good time to go to minimize airfare? Also, would it be a reasonable option to fly into an American city and drive a few hours north? Thanks in advance!

Christina Talcott: Maybe it's because flights to Montreal are technically international, but airfare can seem steep, especially compared to prices for US cities that are farther away. (Gary explored that in his blog entry from last week, which we'll link to shortly.) Flying into Boston and driving might save you a little dough, though the drive is long (more than 5 hours) and parking in Montreal can be a pain. Anyone have advice on when to go to Montreal on the cheap?

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RE: Weekend Fare Finder: I find www.farecompare.com useful when "I want to go somewhere, anywhere but HERE, and what tickets would cost me the least."

After looking at the North American "getaway map" to see what's cheapest, You can put in specific dates and get price comparisons with every airline who flies a route. The getaway maps for other continents (they cover the whole world) also help when you're planning longer trips farther in advance

Gary Lee: Nice tip. Thanks.

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Reston, VA: I need to go to London in June and am considering flying Aer Lingus and connecting through Dublin. One option gives me a 50-minute layover. Do I need to go through customs in Dublin? If so, I'm thinking 50 minutes won't be enough time to allow me to make a connection. Of course, the next flight isn't for another three hours. . . .

Andrea Sachs: Whether you need to go through Customs or not (I am thinking you have to, but I am guessing, since I have never connected in Dublin), 50 minutes is not leaving you much time for error. To be safe, opt for the longer layover. You can pass the time over pints of Guinness.

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KinderEggs: Yes, all of my eggs came back fine. I only had a backpack for the 4-day trip (oh to be young again!), and those eggs were my priority. Since I bought them by the dozen, the store often gave me the egg tray, which I would then wrap in the few articles of clothes I packed. Souvenir brochures and such were tossed to make room for my growing clutch of eggs.

Christina Talcott: Wow, I have to try your system next time!

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Darwin vs. Cairns, Australia: I missed the chat last week due to travel, but thought I'd weigh in now. You get two very different experiences. We went in September, which is the beginning of spring but it's already very warm.

If you pick Darwin: Don't go much later than September, because the "buildup" to the wet season usually starts in October. There are some lovely beaches, but no swimming is allowed because of the crocs and the jellies. Make sure to work in at least a full day or two in Kakadu National Park, which is 150 miles east of Darwin. Plenty of tour companies operate out of Darwin that take care of food, lodging, and transport and have expert tour guides. While we usually forego organized tours, there were only six other people in our tour group so it was quite manageable. The scenery and the Aboriginal rock-art sites are beautiful. Back in Darwin, don't miss the lovely Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory, which has sections of Aboriginal art and culture, local flora and fauna and an exhibit on Cyclone Tracy which practically flattened Darwin on Christmas Day 1974. Stay at the Crowne Plaza or the Holiday Inn Esplanade.

If you pick Cairns: Do yourselves a favor and rent a car and drive to Port Douglas and stay there, about 40 miles north. Cairns was nothing special, but "Port" as they call it, is a nice little beach town. On your way there, stop and cuddle a koala and feed kangaroos at the Cairns Tropical Zoo. Once in Port Douglas, Four Mile Beach is wide and lovely and you can actually swim, thanks to the stinger nets. If you change your mind about visiting the Great Barrier Reef, Port is where most of those boats set sail. If not, you have pretty easy access to Mossman Gorge and Daintree Rain Forest to the north. There are several resorts around, but search the web for villas on Macrossan Street that include kitchenettes and laundry facilities. There are many restaurants along Macrossan and a Cole's grocery store too. Be sure to leave some time on the way back to Cairns to take the Skyrail Cableway through the rain forest up to the village of Kuranda.

I'm sorry this is so long, but it was such a great time. I'm so jealous!

KC Summers: Much good info here. Thanks for posting!

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Premium economy: If you're flying on British Airways, I'd say it's well worth it. Check the seating arrangement--if you get the 747 with 70 business-class seats, then you want to try to snag seat 29A and B or 29J and K if you are flying with someone (29A and K have no seats in front of them and you get tons of extra space). If you're by yourself and on one of those same 747s, go for 28B or 28J; this row has no seat A or K and there is no row in front of it (exit door is followed by the bulkhead for the rear of business class), so you get more space than pretty much anyone else on the aircraft.

The other reason to book premium economy, at least on BA, is that you will be served your food prior to the people in regular economy, so they won't run out of what you want.

I checked out the PE seats on Virgin Atlantic and thought they were reasonably comfortable too; the leather was a bit nicer than BA's fabric.

John Deiner: Good stuff. Nah, it's great stuff. A big ol' positive vote for premium economy.

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Language/gesture snafu: Greetings! I was on a train in Spain earlier in my youth, and I was letting a man pass by me in a hall. I swung my arm out in front of me, as in leading the way to pass, and said "por favor". The man then proceeded to yell in my face for my attempt at kindness - apparently my gesture was interpreted as me being like a matador and taunting the man like a bull.

Gary Lee: Oh, dear. Still, you could win a prize for it...

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Washington, D.C. : I received a fellowship to teach English in Athens, Greece, after college and moved there knowing little more than how to say "Do you speak English?" in Greek. On one of my first days, I was trying to take a taxi from the city center back to the school, but I didn't know Greek well enough to give directions and the taxi driver didn't know English at all. We were both getting exasperated with hand signals, when out of nowhere, the driver asked in German if I knew German. I was shocked as that just happened to be my college major. So I, a young American, and he, an older Greek, chatted happily in German all the way back to the school, which he was able to find easily once we found our common language.

Gary Lee: I can relate. I used to have a close French friend with whom I communicated in Russian. Thanks for the story.

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For Alaska with knee problem: I had a double knee replacement 18 mos. ago. Before that, I went on several cruises, including Alaska, mostly on 'adventure'-type lines--Cruise West and Lindblad Expeditions--including Alaska.

Getting around the ships was no problem with that type cruise because ships are small, though they don't have elevators. On shore excursions, I just signed up for the ones I could handle with limited walking: bus tours, train ride up the mountain, etc. I missed a few things, but had great times.

My biggest problem was on a traditional cruise ship where our cabin was a l-o-o-o-ng way from the elevator; my knees killed me every time I had to go back to the room.

So go and have fun, but seriously consider a smaller ship.

John Deiner: Interesting stuff. I would have guessed (wrong evidently!) that the bigger ships would be preferable. Aren't elevators a good thing if you can't take steps well? Then again, if you have to walk half a mile to your room when you get off of one, it may negate the benefit, and that's a terrific point.

Any other thoughts on this out there?

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Washington, DC: My wife and I just flew back from Buenos Aires last week and can confirm that there is an exit tax. In the full employment for bureaucrats department, you have to wait in a separate line to pay the tax before going to security. This is a government run line, wholly distinct from the airline check-in I don't have my reciept with me, but $25 sounds about right. They will take both Pesos and Dollars, as well as credit cards.

Think of the exit tax as a small hassle to put up with, in an otherwise world class destination for food, music and culture.

Gary Lee: Thanks for the update.

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Language in France: Wary Frenchmen and Frenchwomen came to love this obvious fat, dumb American, because I had learned how to explain, in halting French, that

"I regretted not speaking French, and would appreciate any help that they could offer."

(I won't subject you to my French version of that phrase).

When delivered sincerely (and I was sincere; God, how I wish I'd learned the language) and with my sheepish smile, I was greeted warmly. My search for French magazines about the Spice Girls for my little daughters (it was a nearly a decade ago) led me to a thirty-minute conversation with an older French woman -- a conversation in which she spoke not a word of English, and I not a word of French. But I'll never forget our laughter and pleasure "talking," all because I let her know my embarrassment and regret.

Gary Lee: Nice story. Shows how far a little effort and a lot of humility goes...

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Arlington, VA: I appreciate that you guys really like France, but do we really need a France article every week or every other week? I remember the one very recently about the bridge and now the one yesterday about the rugby tournament. It's a big world out there, how about articles about more of it?

KC Summers: You are absolutely right. We have been running too many France stories, for sure. And you'll probably have a cow next week when we run a piece about Paris's new free bike-sharin program. I swear that will be our last France story for a long time -- I just wanted to get the bike story in while the weather's still nice!

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Eggsactitude in Language: In a restaurant in Belgrade, I asked the waiter if they had eggs; the question is formed in the same way as if I asked if he, personally, had eggs. He laughed and said something like, "Oh, most definitely." I found out later that the word for eggs in Serbian is also slang for, umm, testicles.

Gary Lee: Sounds like you had fun with that one. Thanks for sharing.

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Chicago, Ill: I am going to Vietnam and Cambodia in a few weeks. Do you know what the best way is to handle currency needs? Can I use an ATM there? Do I take USD cash or travellers' cheques (yuck). Most of my hotels etc are prepaid (doing a cycling trip) so it's mostly food and markets etc that I need $$ for. Thanks!

Andrea Sachs: I would pack your wallet with a mix of money: traveler's cheques for larger cities, or use your ATM card; small denominations of U.S. dollars and local currency for villages and rural outposts.

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Washington, D.C.: For Car hire in Ireland: and the charges are daily, not per miles or per week.

KC Summers: Hmm, not with my rental agency -- I believe I paid by the week. Can't remember the name of it now but it was a local place.

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Skiing in NY: Just would like to point out that they are more ski options in NY then just Hunter Mt. Lake Placid, NY played host to two winter Olympics -- Whiteface Mt. Also, I would highly recommend Holiday Valley in Ellicotville, NY.

Andrea Sachs: Good to know. Thanks. I grew up skiing Vermont, so I am slightly biased. Sorry New York!

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Northern California: Does the time my sister and I used our meager knowledge of Polish to meet/flirt with two Polish merchant marine sailors when their ship was docked in Philly count? It was the July 4th weekend in 1978 and I was 19 and my sister was 16.

Gary Lee: Maybe? What happened?

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Huntsville, Ala: My husband and I go away on a cruise every year for the week of Thanksgiving. We usually go Saturday to Saturday in order to miss the holiday crowd. This year we are going with family and couldn't avoid going Sunday to Sunday. We are flying into Orlando +1 days and leave +1 days after the cruise. I am scared to travel that week. I have nightmares already of cancelled flights, lost luggage, etc. Can you put me at ease with any advice on how to best attack Thanksgiving travel???

Scott Vogel: My instinct tells me that by traveling Sunday-Sunday you'll be dodging a bullet, especially if by "+1" you mean you'll be leaving Orlando on the Monday after Thanksgiving. There may be some residual delays on that day, but they likely won't be anything like those on Sunday, which is the absolute worst day to travel. Having said that, remember to bring a good book and arrive no later than 2 hours before flight times. Oh, and take deep breaths whenever possible. You will get through this.

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Sharks: The Calabrase anecdote reminded me of one of my own.

When I was 12, my mom and I went to Korea to visit relatives. My parents don't speak Korean at home, so I knew absolutely none.

My mom referred to her baby brother as "Uncle Doong doong." So I thought his name was Doong doong.

10 years later, we go back to Korea again and the family is calling someone else Doong doong. Turns out it's not my uncle's name. All those years I called him Doong doong, when it actually meant "fattie."

Gary Lee: Cute. I guess he took it in stride.

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Washington, DC: For the poster headed to Ireland next summer: I traveled to Dublin in August for a week on a new Aer Lingus flight (under $600 RT). Renting a car is not the only option for seeing the rest of the country. There are many organized one or more day tours to the countryside and other cities that you can sign up for online or once you get there. Dublin has a fantastic tourism office on Suffolk St. where you can get info on visiting the rest of Ireland and book tours. There's also a great rail system through Dublin as well.

KC Summers: Yes, true. There are bus tours as well. But there's nothing like the freedom that renting a car affords.

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Languages: I studied German for several years in the early 80s. Years later I took my then 12 year-old-son on a trip to Munich. Kids that age are more likely to be embarrased by their parents than impressed so I felt pretty proud by the awe struck look on my son's face when he heard me speaking German to the Passport control guy in Munich. He said, Wow, you really do speak German! Unfortunately, I only seem to have the capacity to retain one foreign language. During a recent trip to Mexico, despite quite a bit a pre-trip language practice, I still found myself speaking German to the mexicans I encountered. Including the guy selling trinkets and Teoticauhn who answered back in flawless Deutsch.

Gary Lee: Cool. It's wonderful when that happens. Thanks for that story.

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California: Traveling to Budapest from our home in Germany, we had total transmission failure. Not speaking a word of Hungarian, and being stuck in the city at rush hour, we pantomimed through hand gestures (and my husband hopping out to push the car!) that we were stuck at the front of the left turn lane. Five cheerful young men helped to push the car off to the side of the road.

We had joined the German equivalent of AAA (ADAC) before the trip. Everyone we had ever talked with there spoke English. However, in Budapest, the ADAC person spoke no English, but German and Hungarian. In a moment that would have made my old college teacher proud, I managed to tell him that the car needed to be towed back to Germany. We also needed to rent a car with an automatic transmission that was large enough to bring us and our 3 kids back home.

This incident was about one month after the trip where our kids were singing Frere Jacques (the only French they knew), while we were in the back of yet another tow truck outside of Paris....

Gary Lee: Thanks for this story.

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Rental car insurance in Ireland: To add to the prior point, also check what your credit card's insurance says before relying on that for a rental car in Ireland--I believe American Express, for example, has an exclusion for rentals there.

KC Summers: Gosh, it's beginning to sound like a very treacherous undertaking to rent a car in Ireland. It's very doable, folks!

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Alaskan cruise: Hey, Chatters! This is in response to the person asking about a cruise for someone who is mobility impaired. I was on an Alaskan cruise last year with a friend, and I remember us talking about how steep the ramp was at a couple of the ports. It depends on which cruise line and which ports, but some of those ramps can be quite steep. However, it did seem like they had staff there to help people in wheelchairs or on motorized scooters. The bigger question, I think, would be how accessible the various ports might be, rather than the cruise ship itself.

John Deiner: I'm guessing (correct me if I'm wrong here folks) that cruise lines have a wheelchair on hand to get folks up and down those steep ramps.

But, gee, you're right about those ramps at different ports. I'd have to reiterate what the previous poster said: Don't ignore the warnings from the cruise line on the level of activity/mobility required on different excursions.

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Cruises for mobility impaired: I did an Alaskan cruise with Carnival and noticed that their website has a page about their accessibility for special needs guests. It's in their FAQ page, but here's a direct link:

http://www.carnival.com/CMS/Static_Templates/EMB_guest_special_requirements.aspx

I'm sure other cruise lines have similar info on their websites somewhere, but start with the FAQ pages.

John Deiner: Good suggestion. Or even better . . . pick up the phone and call someone if you have to. Lots of good travel agents out there familiar with the different lines as well.

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Languages: My mother, who spoke college German and Pennsylvania Dutch, became quite flustered when the mother of our new, young neighbor children spoke only German. (This was some time ago, when English was not universal). After stuttering around, using the words for feeding livestock, Mother declared she had to go home to "feed her Frau"...

Later, we took our new neighbor to Lancaster County, to listen to the local dialect. Anna declared that "that is not bad German, that is bad English!"

Gary Lee: Nice story. Danke schoen!

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Alexandria, VA: When I applied for my passport and answered the question of where I intended to travel, I gave the location and dates of a now cancelled cruise. Can I still go somewhere else or am I legally bound to turn in my passport for cancelling that trip?

Andrea Sachs: The State Department just wanted to know that information for processing purposed. It's your passport, which means you can go anywhere it is accepted. Which is nearly everywhere.

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Silver Spring, MD: For the person going to Ireland:

Driving in Ireland is definitely an experience especially when you are on a very narrow road with a tour bus barreling towards you. Watch out going around corners on the hills/mountains as we ran into sheep standing in the middle of the road.

You are right about needing extra time to drive between places. My friends and I started in Dublin and ended up leaving from Shannon about 10 days later and we took the perimeter tour. It was a few days short of being able to see everything we wanted, but should definitely see the countrysides. The Cliffs of Mohr, Kylemore Abbey, and Ring of Kerry were beautiful.

One thing I wish I had known was in a tour book, but I forgot about it. I think it was Torc waterfall and the surrounding area of Killarney. There is a sign around one of the historic houses, but is it a scam where people with horse-drawn carriages try to get people to pay for rides for the 1 mile hike...there is an entrance up the street that has direct access to the house and then another one to the waterfall.

KC Summers: Sounds like a great drive. Thanks for chiming in.

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Chicago Ill: My best foreign language story involves Turkey, a minibus and food poisoning. We're flying along on the road to Kas with a bunch of locals, none of whom speak a word of English. I suddenly HAVE to get to a bathroom, if you know what I mean, as I realize in horror that I have no idea how to say that in Turkish. (You always just look for the sign, right? But how do you say it?) "WC," "toilet," "gotta go gotta go gotta go" and other synonyms register blank stares in response, until somebody in the back finally figures out that this poor schmuck needs to go to the "toaleta" (or however it's written). Thank god the driver not only let me off but waited for me!

Gary Lee: Funny. Glad it worked out in the end...

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Virgin: Any word on the new Virgin America airline? I got a 20% off coupon for pre-registering for their frequent flyer program so I'm trying out the service for a trip to SFO next month...enjoy their trans-atlantic service but not sure if the verdict is in on the domestic branch yet.

Andrea Sachs: Nope, we have not gotten our wings with them yet. Anyone out there tried out Virgin America?

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for the mobililty imparied cruiser: I went on a cruise to New England and Canada and it was an "older" crowd -- I kept joking to my parents that there must be a hoveround convention. So, if you have access to a hoveround or one of those motorized scooters, you'll be fine. You may be able to rent one on the ship, I'm not sure how that works.

Also, the handicapped accessible cabins are quite spacious, so see about getting one of those.

John Deiner: You guys rock. All good suggestions.

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Pittsburgh, Pa: Re coping in a foreign language while traveling: I submitted this story last summer when sports was your topic. But with your forbearance I'd like to share a shortened version in terms of today's topic.

I landed in Lajes, Terceira, Azores in June 2002 on the morning of the US-Portugal match, the kickoff of the 2002 World Cup. My driver asked if I'd consent to being interviewed by the Portuguese network TV1 which was seeking an American perspective on soccer. I consented, and gave my first TV interview ever -- in BRAZILIAN Portuguese, which is what I'd been studying for a couple of years! -- rather than in the European dialect, with which I was as yet unfamiliar!

Midway through the match the US led 3-1 (they eventually gave up another goal, but still won), which the Portuguese considered a major upset. So I was naturally asked to explain why I thought the US team was ahead (better teamwork?), as well as the standard question of why soccer isn't more popular in the US.

Luckily for me, I've since been told that most European Portuguese understand the Brazilian dialect just fine, because they're familiar with it from the Brazilian soap operas televised in Portugal.

Gary Lee: Hey, good tale,well told. It may win you the prize!

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Kingstowne, Va: Regarding the language question....When I was 11 years old, we took a family vacation that involved driving north from DC and going all over Quebec (Montreal, Quebec City, Saguenay River, Magog). I barely spoke a word of French. Not a problem in Montreal or Magog, but it proved a big problem in the Saguenay valley. At one stop my parents sent me to get ice for our cooler. I spoke no French, the storekeeper spoke no English, and all the stuff was behind the counter, so she went around holding things up until we got the right item.

More absurd was a restaurant where I needed to find the men's room and didn't know what the right words were in French...I finally mimed standing with my feet slightly apart and...well.... (It worked, though; the guy pointed me to it!)

Gary Lee: Sometimes signs and gestures do the trick. Much thanks for the story.

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Ireland and Edinburgh: Why not rent a car in Dublin, make your way up north to Belfast and then fly to Edinburgh from Belfast City airport? That is a lot in 6 days or so, but it definitely can be done. I lived in Belfast for 2 years studying for my master's...which, by the way, I loved so much more than Dublin.

KC Summers: That does sound like a good plan. But really now, how can they leave Ireland without seeing the Cliffs of Moher, the Burren, the Dingle Peninsula and the rest of the southwest?? Too many tough decisions.... They'll just have to take two weeks.

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BA exit tax: Thanks chatters for the first-hand reports about the exit tax for Argentina, especially about the number of lines to be prepared for. ALways a lot easier to deal with if one is expecting it....

(An opportunity to ask this question is one of the many reasons why I believe the Post's Travel section and staff are the best in the country....)

Gary Lee: Hey, we're always happy to help.

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Flying to Montreal: If the person asking about Montreal can find a good fare to Burlington, Vermont, that might be the way to go (rent a car). It's not a long drive from there at all; the distance from the border crossing on I-87 in Champlain, NY, to Montreal is only 48 kilometres.

Christina Talcott: Good call! Wintertime fares to Burlington might not be too bad.

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Language Blooper: We were young and traveling through Belgium where I tried my best high school French and asked at the tourism office for "an expensive place to stay , please". The kind person took one look at us and steered us to the cheap place we of course were looking for..... I was so proud. It was much later that I broke out in a sweat when I realized what i had really said.

Gary Lee: I have been in that same situation several times. Good tale!

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Alexandria, Va: My mom and I are going to Tuscany in late Nov.-early Dec. I've researched the weather then, just a tad, and it may rain and be cold. Anybody been there at this time of year with advice on outerwear for warmth? I don't want to pack a big, old winter coat - any alternatives?

Christina Talcott: Sadly, I haven't been to Tuscany that time of year, but I've recently been in Paris for Thanksgiving and was very happy to have a wool coat with me. I left it in my hotel room a few days but needed it every night. An alternative would be to take a raincoat (the longer, the better) with a removable lining, and bring sweaters/blazers/sweatshirts for layering. Remember that older buildings (hotels, churches) can be drafty and cold, so it always makes sense to have extra layers.

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Linguistic Trivia and Travel Tale:"Are there really that many more similarities between Italian and Spanish than there are between French and Spanish?"

According to linguists, Spanish and Italian are very similar, but Spanish is the language closest to ancient Latin, followed by Italian. (The barbarians sacking Rome and adding their rough words to the language rarely made it all the way down the Iberian peninsula. But those barbarians, if they weren't FROM what we now call France, passed THROUGH France on their way to picking up a few things at Caesar's.)

My linguistic story happened in the late 90s when I and some friends went up to Montreal for a hockey game between our Capitals and their Canadiens. I got moving earlier than any of the others the next morning and went to the cafe I'd seen across the street; "un cafe noir, s'il vous plait" I said, and the response was, "will that be regular or large?" I was surprised that the clerk could so easily tell I was from the States and disappointed that my accent must have been so horrible, and then one of my friends asked me, "were you wearing your Washington Capitals jacket when you went down there?"

Gary Lee: Good story. Thanks.

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Alaskan cruise - re: Holland America: I'd second the recommendation for Holland America for a cruise line for those mobility impaired (or with other disabilities). We took our honeymoon on a Holland cruise, and while we are not disabled, there was a blind woman and her fiance on the cruise with us. One thing she told us is that Holland was the only cruise line that was willing to let her cruise and do excursions. The other cruise lines she talked to (and I don't recall which ones) said she would only be a liability and would not take her!! I think that says a lot about their policies toward disabilities.

(of course, this is all second hand information, but just wanted to throw it out there).

John Deiner: We love information that is thrown in here. Still, I find it hard to believe other cruise lines turned away someone because she was blind. Anyone else ever hear something like this?

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Arlington, VA: When I was 5, we spent the summer in France visiting my grandparents. I didn't speak French, but my mother taught me to say, "Une baguette, s'il vous plait," at the bakery while she stood just outside the door. One day, I went up and asked for a baguette, and the woman said they didn't have any more. I understood her but had no clue how to respond. I just stood there in a panic, and my mom had to come in and rescue me.

More recently, I was in Vietnam last year, where they use an alphabet based on Latin letters. Unfortunately, they are pronounced nowhere near what you'd expect, so you still have to point to a map or menu so that someone can figure out what you mean. When they finally pronounce the word you were trying to say, it doesn't even come close.

Gary Lee: Thanks much for these anecdotes.

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Just back from Puerto Rico: I wanted to share my mistakes:

American Airlines let me know that they'd fly me from Dulles to San Juan for under $200; I took them up on it.

I speak more than a little spanish, and wanted to use it.

So, like a dummy, I booked myself into a resort -the Marriott in Condado Beach. DESPITE knowing that I would rent a car, DESPITE knowing that all beaches are public beaches, and DESPITE knowing that I didn't really want or need pampering or a casino.

It was a great trip anyway. I got up early on a Saturday morning, drove in less than an hour to El Yunque, the only rainforest in "the U.S." I hiked atrail to a waterfall in the middle of the rainforest, and swam there during a rainstorm. I didn't see a soul; only lizards and exotic birds.

When people showed up, I headed to El Luquillo beach, where there were about twenty people, total. Glorious.

This kind of thing was repeated every day -- I drove west to Baja Vega based on a tip I received here -it was not nearly as nice as Luquillo, but I got more of a local flavour -- there was an impromptu convention of Puerto Rican bikers, although there were no genuine Harleys in sight].

So while I spent way more than I needed to -I coulda slept in much cheaper rooms and gone to identical places, it was still great!

KC Summers: Thanks much for this ground-level report. I agree completely. I stayed at that hotel too, and had the same reaction -- once I started driving around I realized there were much more interesting beaches and areas to explore. I really liked Puerto Rico and want to go back.

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Centreville, VA: I recently visited Paris (and want to go back!) where knowing a single French word made all the difference. Our group was dining in a small neighborhood restaurant, and our server had just turned around to go back to the kitchen when one of our party tried to get her back by hollering "Miss! Miss!" to no avail. So I turned around and said "Pardon?" and the server immediately turned around and said "yes, can I help you with something?" It was like magic!

Gary Lee: Funny how that works.

Thanks for that story.

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Montreal: You didn't say where you were flying from, but it may make sense to fly into Burlington VT and then drive up to Montreal, although Customs is, apparently, no longer the easy zip across that it used to be. Still, it's shorter than driving from Boston, and could save you money since you won't be making an international flight.

Christina Talcott: This just reminded me: Don't forget your passport when you go to Canada!

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York, PA: My boyfriend and I are planning a weekend trip to York, PA sometime in end of October or November. Suggestions for things to do there and/or on the drive there. Nothing to fancy - just want a weekend away from the city. Thanks. PS: We are going to York because we won a free hotel night there, so no real flexibility in destination.

Andrea Sachs: York is the factory tour capital of the universe, so you can go see how potato chips, pretzels, chocolate, etc., are made. You should also venture around the Amish countryside, for a change of (slow) pace. There are also wineries and Revolutionary War sites and parks where you can hike without seeing a soul.

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Washington, DC: The Pro-Recliner again: We'll have to agree to disagree regarding reclining. But I still stand behind my assertion that leaning your head on a tray in protest is passive aggressive. If it bothers you that much, just be an adult and ASK the person in front of you to move their chair up...

KC Summers: But how does putting my head down on my tray table affect the person in front of me?? I'm not being disingenuous -- I really don't get this.

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Arlington, VA: When I was in a summer program at the University of Zagreb, I came down with an earache and sore throat after an abrupt weather change. Not wanting to share the fate of some others in the group who had had similar problems but were afraid to go to a doctor in Yugoslavia, I immediately set off to the walk-in clinic, where I was quickly greeted and interviewed. When the (female) doctor asked me what was wrong, I tried to explain that I had an infection, but I couldn't think of the word in Croatian and so used the Russian word. She looked at me very strangely and said, "Where?" When I said "in my ear," she burst out laughing, and said, "Oh, you mean -the right word]!" I later found out that I had told her I had V.D. in my ear. But I have -never- forgotten the Croatian word for "infection" or "inflammation," which is "upala."

Gary Lee: Well, I'm glad she understood that it was a mistake.

Thanks...

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To Chantilly looking for snow for holidays: Have you thought about Smugglers Notch in VT, very family oriented and good for groups.

Andrea Sachs: Smuggler's Notch isn't very intermediate though, is it?

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Palo Alto, Calif: Language Experience: Is there anything funnier than hearing someone yell in a language you don't understand? (assuming you are safe that is)

While traveling between Baku Azerbaijan and Tblisi Georgia a friend and I were shaken down for a bribe by a guard of some kind - uniform and gun. My friend (American living in Baku) exploded at the poor guy and started screaming at him in Russian, I had to bury my head in hands and stop from laughing. (BTW the guard was only asking for about 10 bucks!)

Gary Lee: Thanks for sharing the story.

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Skiing in NY/New England: Andrea, you diss all of New York's skiing based on -Hunter-?!? Have you never been to Whiteface? Lake Placid? Home of the '32 and '80 Winter Olympics? It would do nicely for the big family get-together, and would offer plenty to do off the slopes, as well. It's about the same distance as the Vermont resorts from DC and Philly, and might be less expensive to boot. Just throwing it out there.

Languages: I speak passable Arabic, and it's gotten me safely around Egypt, Jordan and the West Bank. It has also come in handy in Vienna (I speak not a word of German, btw), and in New York City taxis.

Andrea Sachs: No, I don't. Just dissing Hunter.

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Arlington via the Bronx: When I lived in the Bronx, I used to frequent a little Chinese takeout place near Jerome Avenue. One night I was in there when two young punks came in. One took up a position just inside the door, and the other went to the counter and started hassling the proprietor, who was a little guy, about 5 feet nothing. I had taken Mandarin a while previously, and I was able to summon up just enough to say to the counterman, "Go slow with my order. I'm going to telephone." I went next door, called the police, then went back into the Chinese place. The two punks were waiting for one other customer to leave before making their move, but they scattered when a police car pulled up in front. The counterman was highly appreciative, and I was scared to death (after the fact).

Gary Lee: Hey, good going there...

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Washngton, DC: Any idea when we're going to see prices drop for Fall flights to Europe. They're outrageous still from the summer. Usually by now they've dropped.

Andrea Sachs: Some sales have been popping up already for Europe (like Icelandair). Check the What's the Deal? column on Sundays.

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Camp Springs, MD : How long should I wait for an airline to respond to a complaint. In early August, I wrote US Airways complaining about the horrible experince I had on a trip from Toronto to Washington, DC. To date, US Airways has not responded. Should I resend the letter?

Thanks

Andrea Sachs: I'd give them six to eight weeks, then resend.

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Bethesda, MD: Thinking of visiting friends in Lima, Peru for a week or so in February. If I'm planning on doing Machu Picchu, will there be plenty in Lima and vicinity to keep my occupied?

Gary Lee: Sure. The biggest attraction there are the restaurants, mostly concentrated around Miraflores. But the architecture and the museums in the downtown area are also worth exploring.

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Washington, DC: Dear Flight Crew,

Unfortunately I will have to make quick travel plans for a funeral in the next few weeks. I will not know when I need to make travel arrangements till the last minute. Do you have any advice on how to do so once the time arrives?

KC Summers: Our sympathies, Wash. What we've found with bereavement fares is that they're frequently more expensive than what you can find by comparing fares online, or using a low-fare airline like Southwest or JetBlue. The one advantage they do have is that they allow flexibility if you're dealing with uncertain dates. So you have to weigh that versus the cost. I would call the airlines and explain the circumstances to a live person and see what they suggest. Also, consider calling a travel agent. At a time like this, you might be better off letting someone else do the work for you. Good luck.

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Gary Lee: Fellow travelers: Much thanks for joining us and for for the good questions. I especially appreciate all of your foreign language tales from the road. Any one of them could have won the prize. The winner this time is the woman who learned to say in French how much she regretted not knowing French and appreciated any help she could get.

If you send me your mailing address to: leeg@washpost.com, I will make sure you get the prize!

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