Ask Tom

Ostrich and Great Desserts

In a city loaded with diverse restaurants, from New American chic and upscale Italian to sandwich shops and burritos on the run, finding the best places to eat can be a real puzzle. Where's the best restaurant for a first date or an anniversary? Father's Day? What's the best burger joint? Who has the best service?

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Ask Tom. Tom Sietsema, The Washington Post's food critic, is on hand Wednesdays at 11 a.m. ET to answer your questions, listen to your suggestions and even entertain your complaints about Washington dining. Sietsema, a veteran food writer, has sampled the wares and worked as a critic in Washington, Seattle, San Francisco and Milwaukee, and can talk restaurants with the best of 'em. You can access his Postcards from Tom to read his recommendations for other cities, read his dining column, First Bite and the Dish or read transcripts of previous "Ask Tom" chats. Tom's Sunday magazine reviews, as well as his "Ask Tom" column, are available early on the Web.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom! I love your chats...they definately help me get through the week. My birthday is Sunday and I am looking for a nice, intimate restaurant to have dinner with a couple of friends (probably on Saturday night). We are all adventurous eaters and while we don't want to break the bank, we don't want burgers. What are your suggestions? We would all prefer to stay in DC. Thank you!!!

Tom Sietsema: I'm keen on the recently reviewed Locanda on the Hill, the wine bar above Bistro Lepic in Georgetown, maybe Rice in Logan Circle.

God morning, everyone.

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Washington, D.C.:4 of us went to Le Paradou this past Saturday night. We had 7:45 reservations, for which we were on time, but we didn't leave until 11:30 (explained further below). The sommelier was beyond snooty (copped a palpable attitude when we didn't accept his recommendation of a $350 bottle of pinot noir), the appetizers didn't arrive until 9:45 (yes, we waited a full two hours before receiving any food), and the waiter did the "food-auction" routine that I would not expect at a fine-dining establishment (i.e. "who had the scallops?"). We had to repeatedly ask for bread (who wouldn't, seeing as how we didn't see appetizers for two full hours) and water, and were generally underwhelmed by the service.

On a brighter note, Yannick Cam is a tremendous chef--the food was excellent (or was it just that we were STARVING?). But, the service would make us reticent to return.

Just our 2 cents.

Tom Sietsema: Trust me, I can relate. There are few restaurants offering food of such high calibre and service of so little finesse.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Le Paradou.

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Tom, I am curious - do you ever walk around the Post's offices in disguise? I am picturing your office like that of a CIA operative, full of crazy getups!

And do your coworkers have to sign confidentiality statements vowing not to disclose your true attributes?

Tom Sietsema: CBS once taped me for a "Sunday Morning" segment and I had far too many co-workers wonder over to my office for a look-see-laugh. I respect my colleagues, but there's a reason my picture is unavailable even in the Post's internal staff directory! Give or take a Bob Woodward, journalists aren't always the best keepers of secrets.

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Baltimore, Md.: Hi Tom -

My husband and I dined out this weekend at Charleston in Baltimore. We had reservations for 8:30. We arrived at about 8:15, checked in with the hostess, and grabbed a seat at the bar to have a drink while we were waiting for our table. At 9pm, after waiting 30 minutes after our reservation, I had my husband go to the hostess and find out what was going on. The hostess said that they were setting our table and it would be just another minute. We then saw two other parties of two get seated. At 9:15, he went back over to the hostess and she again said it would be just another minute. This time, she did come and get us and said "we have a VERY special table for you; I am sure that after you taste the food the wait will have been worth it." I didn't really feel like that comment was appropriate. I would have preferred to have her just apologize or maybe comp a drink. I really feel like the reason for us being made to wait longer was because we were younger (29 and 32) versus the much older crowd that seemed to be around us. My question is: when you have a reservation somewhere, how long should you wait to complain and what, if anything, do you think the restaurant should do?

By the way, the food was wonderful, but we didn't end up eating dinner until 945 or 10 and we were starving.

Thanks Tom!

Tom Sietsema: In the ideal world, I think a grace period of 15 to 20 minutes -- for both diners and restaurants -- is appropriate. Anything longer and a customer should have a good excuse ("I had a flat tire") and the host should make amends (a gratis drink is customary).

Discrimination is hard to prove unless there are facts to substatiate it, and neither of us were privy to what transpired at the host stand. So I can't comment on your suggestion of youth bias.

But you're right: The hostess's comment was unnecessary. You also have more patience than I do: Thirty minutes after not being seated for my confirmed reservation would have placed me in front of a manager. (But you already knew that was going to be my advice, ddn't you?)

washingtonpost.com: Review of Charleston.

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DOT, D.C.: Tom - I know this is a borderline topic for you, but you seem to know how to locate anything in this city. With the rehab of the DOT building at L'Enfant, Mike the Popcorn Guy has moved his cart elsewhere. Do you have any advice on how to find him? We miss his sweet salty goodness.

Tom Sietsema: Let me first put out a bulletin here: Has anyone seen Mike the Popcorn Guy or his cart around town?

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Riva, Md.: How do you keep notes as you eat at a restaurant you plan to review?

Tom Sietsema: Sorry, that a state secret!

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Washington, D.C.: Tom,

Are there any dishes that you've seen so many times on menus that you just wish they'd go away?

Tom Sietsema: Like molten chocolate cake? And tuna tartare?

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Tipping: Hi Tom,

Is it standard to tip 20% nowadays? I find that I have been tipping that number more and more, even when service has just been OK. It wasn't all that long ago when 15% was the norm, and 20% was for really good service. I just want to know for sure what's the best way to go. Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Your observation is correct: 20% is the new 15%. But if the service isn't great, I see no reason to reward poor pamperers.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

I often find that food critics miss the mark when critiquing ethnic restaurants because the food is designed to be more bland for American taste and not as spicy or intense as it should. Do you try to bring someone from that country when sampling its food? BTW, this is criticizing you in any way.

Tom Sietsema: Yes, I occasionally bring along guests who are from, or who have visited, countries whose cuisine I'm curious about. But having put in more than 20 years of serious eating and writing about restaurants -- and logging almost 1.8 million miles with American Airlines -- I hope I'm qualified to distinguish the real from the less real.

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Oriental, NC, formerly Springfield, Va.: Tom, what has happened to XTRA VIRGIN in Shirlington? It is fine dining no more. After our sixth visit in the past 12 months, we found table service VERY speedy, in and out in under an hour. Fast food with linen and silverware, plus add a tableside waterfall.

VERY DISAPPOINTING!

Tom Sietsema: Having dined there -- nice patio! -- just last week, I second your disappointment with the place.

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Arlington, Va.: Hi Tom:

My husband and I recently ate at Citronelle for our 5th anniversary, based on it consistently being rated as one of the top 5 restaurants in the area year after year. I have to say, we were decidedly underwhelmed by the experience.

The service was fair: we waited nearly 5 minutes for anyone to approach our table; and the food was...adequate to good. It's not that we didn't see flashes of brilliance (the Begula pasta and the desserts), but there was little we experienced that wowed us or made us feel justified in paying the steep prices. When we mentioned this to others, they all said the same thing: Citronelle?

Yeah, it's just OK. My question is, then: why does it consistently get the high ratings from reviewers?

Tom Sietsema: I've gone on record that the service is not always in line with the prices, and the room could use some freshening, but I think Michel Richard's food is some of the most beautiful and delicious -- and clever -- anywhere. And that puts it at the top of the heap. What SPECIFICALLY let you down? I'm all ears.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Michel Richard Citronelle.

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Washington, D.C.: Dear Tom,

I was surprised to find "Dahlia," on Massachusetts Ave. in Spring Valley had closed. Every time I have been there, the place was full or nearly so. Is there any obvious reason for its demise? More embarasing to a resident of the general neighborhood, when did it close its doors?

Tom Sietsema: Here's the scoop:

washingtonpost.com: The Dish: Starting Anew.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom, how do you feel about Brasserie Beck for an anniversary dinner that is cheerful, festive, and not extraordinarily expensive? We loved Central, so are curious about Beck and how it matches up. Any other suggestions? We would prefer fun over romantic anyday. Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: I'm not real high on Beck after my last visit there. For "fun," try Oyamel in Penn Quarter, Majestic in Old Town or the new Station 9 on U St.

washingtonpost.com: First Bite of Station 9.

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Washington, D.C.: I know I missed the chat today - Sept. 26 - but I had to weigh in on your recommendation of Station 9. DON'T GO!

My partner and I had dinner there on a Saturday night recently and had a very bad experience. We sat down and it took 10 minutes for someone to come over to take our drink order. I wanted to go at that point, but I was persuaded to stay. After our drink order was taken, it took about 10 minutes to get our drinks (a vodka tonic and a Miller Lite). The "queso" appetizer was a "bowl" of crescent roll pasty with some melted cheese and chili in the center and three (count 'em, three!) nacho chips. It was not only not as described (queso and chips), it wasn't good. It took another 25 minutes after we finished our appetizers to get our entrees. My chicken ceasar salad was unique. It came in a small soup bowl, and the chicken was a leg and thigh, bone in, not cut up. It covered the entire top of the salad, so it was extremely difficult to cut up. And it was cold. At the end of the meal, we were talking about how bad it was when the manager came up and asked whether we had enjoyed our meal. We answered, "Honestly, no," and then recounted that it took too long to get our drinks and our food, that the queso appetizer was not described properly and was not very good, and that the chicken Caesar salad just didn't work. As for the queso, all the manager said was that it could be described better. As for my chicken caesar, he told me that they were "trying something different" in serving dark meat. On the bone. As for the delay in delivering our food, he told us that the kitchen was too small for the number of tables. The place wasn't even half full.

We had tried the place when it was Cada Vez. That place wasn't good. We nearly didn't go in to Station 9 because of our bad experience at Cada Vez. We decided it wouldn't be fair to the owners of Station 9 not to go in because of the old restaurant. We should have trusted our first instinct.

BTW, after our rather frank conversation with the manager, all he could muster was

"Thanks for coming in. Have a good night." Had he offered to buy us a drink, and asked us to come back again, we might have been tempted. But its on our no-fly zone now.

Tom Sietsema: Looks like I have a detractor. But you owe it to yourself to give the place another shot. (I say this having been in four times now.)

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molten chocolate cake: Why do lots of mid-range places only have that darned molten chocolate cake, apple crisp and cheesecake? Why not mix it up a little and have something else?

Tom Sietsema: Because a lot of places think that's all people want, or that's what sells -- or that's all the sous chef can handle because the restaurant doesn't have a dedicated pastry chef. I say to restaurants: Make customers desire something else! Like a good pie -- now THAT'S something that's hard to find but that a lot of people enjoy eating. Right?

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Durian: have you had this fruit?

i ordered a durian shake at eden center to go with my ga bon mi.

it smelled like a freshly cut lawn full of wild onions and tasted like raw scallions.

ick.

Tom Sietsema: It's an acquired taste, for sure. The durian I've had smelled just like dirty socks. Bon appetit!

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Arlington, Va.: Any places in the Northern Virginia area for good jerk

chicken?

Tom Sietsema: Whoa! You had me scared there for a minute ....

Jerk

Chicken

Anyone know of a good source in NoVa?

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1.8 million miles!!!: are you effing kidding? that is quite a bit. over how long?

Tom Sietsema: Since 1991, when I was living in California.

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16th & U: Also, in Phyllis Richman's books, it seemed taken for granted that all the restaurant people recognize her when she comes in to do a review. Do you think you really are unrecognized when you check out restaurants for reviews? Someone I know who works front of house at PS7 said he knew who you were as soon as you walked in, and that pretty much everyone in the industry recognizes you.

Tom Sietsema: I'm probably recognized about half the time I dine out, but certainly not on every visit and sometimes very late into a meal.

It happens. I've been covering the scene since 2000 (and it takes me a good 45 minutes to put on my best disguise, so that's not always an option).

The funny thing is, simply because someone is recognized by staff is no guarantee service is going to be good. Also, I go to restaurants multiple times, under different names, to try to get around the obvious problem.

That's the short answer to a complicated question.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom!

A group of us went to Brasserie Beck last night. It was my third time there, and each time service has been a little rusty. Upon receiving the check, we split the bill evenly among the 5 of us. Two paid in cash (which was apparently dropped on the floor by our server as she had to come back and ask if the money found on the floor had been ours) and three paid with credit cards. Upon returning with our credit cards, our server leaned over and said "As a reminder, please remember when figuring the tip that you gave me some cash, so please don't tip merely on the amount on your credit card slip but on the entire bill itself" We were quite taken aback by this. We are professional 30-somethings and are quite aware of the "rules of tipping" and I have never had a server discuss with me how I should tip. How should this have been handled? Upon voicing our amazement that she would make such a comment, her response was "I'm a blunt person and am sorry if I offended anyone". Tom, I would be interested on your thoughts on this and how to avoid such an embarrassing situation next time. I really enjoy Brasserie Beck's food but I am beginning to question the service.

Tom Sietsema: Wow. That's, um, pretty incredible.

I had a (bubbly) waitress there who inquired as we were eating dessert, "Are we in heaven?"

I said, "I thought we were at Beck."

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Arlington, Va.: Speaking of carts, does anyone know what happened to the Korean barbecue cart that was on Vermont and L Streets? It was delicious but it's no longer there.

Tom Sietsema: The one I wrote about? The bulgogi-and-more cart? I saw them setting up shop this morning ...

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Metro Center, D.C.: Hi Tom! Today is my birthday, and I want to treat myself to a yummy lunch. Caveats: I only have an hour, and I work at Metro Center. Also, no time for reservations. I'll eat pretty much anything, and have no problem sitting at a bar for it. Where should I go and what should I order? Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Congrats! Treat yourself to something prepared by Massimo Fabbri at Ristorante Tosca at 1112 F St. NW. (The young chef's carrot pasta with rabbit ragu would make a nice gift to yourself.)

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16th & U: I enjoyed reading Phyllis Richman's two food/mystery books. Did she and the Wash Post food section editor not get along? Is there typically tension between a newspaper's restaurant reviewer and the food section editor? How do you get along with the Post's food section editor?

Tom Sietsema: I can only speak for myself, and I have to say I've had the great fortune of working closely with -- and admiring -- several section heads of the Post's Food section over the years.

I'll always be indebted to Phyllis for hiring me as an editorial aide; to Jeanne McManus for re-hiring me as a food reporter; and to the current editor, Joe Yonan, for his smarts, sense of humor and careful eye. Each person touched the section a different way and each person made the Post an interesting place to work.

In MY book, they're all four-star talents.

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom,

I am the general manager of Zaytinya. I read your blog today about the rowdy guests on Labor Day weekend. I'd like to apologize to those guests that were unable to enjoy their experience and to invite them back. We strive daily for great service at Zaytinya. Clearly we failed this time and we would like the opportunity to fix it. Please let me know how I can get in touch with this guest.

Sincerely,

Morgan Taylor

(202)638-0800

Tom Sietsema: With the GM's permission, I'm putting this out there for the poster in question.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Zaytinya.

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Service v. food: Hi Tom,

The above poster re: La Paradou and the ongoing issues with the service at Bebo made me wonder how other people prioritize service v. food. Personally, I don't care if it's the most amazing thing that I have ever placed in my mouth, if the service is weak (especially when large sums of money are involved) I'm going to be unhappy and definitely not go back. To me, the most important thing a fine restaurant does is provide a wonderful atmosphere, not just tasty food on a plate. So to that end, I love the Danny Myers restaurants in NY where that is a high priority. Gramercy Tavern is a place I always enjoy, even if truthfully my meal itself is a little off. But given other people's comments, and your weighing of these factors when reviewing places like Bebo - what do you think? What is a good balance?

Tom Sietsema: If I were a restaurant owner, I'd insist my staff read Danny Meyer's newish book on service. No one (or few) do hospitality better than he does.

The thing that makes Citronelle, service-wise, is Richard. He's in his dining room a lot, flirting with men and women alike and seemingly having a ball as host of a delicious party. There are certainly other strong performers on the team (Hi, Mark!) but a few really ought to be benched until they warm up.

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Washington, D.C.: popcorn guy's now located at the 7th and Maryland exit of the L'enfant metro (by the FAA)--- follow the pigeons

Tom Sietsema: Cool beans! (Yep, I typed that. Because it's MY chat.)

Thanks for coming to our rescue.

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pie!: YES! Anything to jolt the same old desserts off of the menus? Why is this so hard? You don't have to be a pastry chef to turn out a good pie. I am always disappointed in dessert selections no matter what the level of restaurant. Cheesecake ad nauseum, heavy heavy items, too much chocolate, creme brulee boredom. At least offer a light alternative too, like a nice sorbet, or sherbet! What ever happened to sherbet?

End of dessert rant.

Tom Sietsema: No, I think you just started something here (and that's a good thing). Chatters, what other desserts would you like to see? Let's at least give restaurants some input.

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Dessert....: Dessert

I'm so with the consensus on dessert. Sometimes you just want a slice of cake or pie. That's why I love Willow with the "cake of the day", or Restaurant Eve with their "birthday cake." I love it. Vidalia has a wonderful lemon chess pie. If I'm going to have the calories, I want it to be worth it. I try to check out the dessert menu before I eat my meal so I can figure out how much to eat. Thanks for reading and as usual this chat makes my day.

Tom Sietsema: I don't have much of a sweet tooth, but I'm getting hungry ...

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Bethesda, Md.: Tom, I was out of the area for a year and am now back. I went by Blacks a few weeks ago, and while I totally respect Jeff's upgrades, and think that he did a great job, I miss the bar of the old place! I thought it was great to have a true bar, with sports on TV that happened to be connected to a restaurant with excellent food, if one desired a good meal. Maybe I totally have blinders on...I am sure places exist, but can you think of any that are semi-Metro accessible. Excellent food in an old-Blacks bar-type environment?

Tom Sietsema: Judging from my mail, a lot of Black's regular miss the old look.

Today's challenge: Great food in a scruffy bar. I'm drawing a blank. It's up to you, chatters.

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Vienna, Va.: I believe that breakfast is the forgotten meal. If not forgotten then compressed to a slug of carbs, fat and caffeine. I tried Penn Quarter the other morning and found nothing except the Monaco. Where are the great breakfasts served downtown? Anybody for a Joe's fry?

Tom Sietsema: Have you tucked into Johnny's on the Half Shell yet?

washingtonpost.com: The Dish: Rise and Shine.

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Washington, D.C.: Hey, Tom - I was curious, what DC area restaurants do you think are best for really tasty, but relatively healthy fare? I'm not talking food that is fat free, or whatnot, but just places to go for a very nice meal without feeling like you gained a pound?

Tom Sietsema: Sushi (or better yet, sashimi) comes to mind, especially if I start off with a bowl of miso soup to fill me up some before I tackle the fish. I'm most drawn to Sushi-Ko, but I like Kaz Sushi Bistro and Kotobuki (if I'm feeling poor), too.

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Anonymous: Splitting the check 5 ways? Honestly, Mr. or Miss Mature 30-something doesn't really grasp the etiquette of eating out, huh?

Tom Sietsema: No name-calling, you hear?

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Bethesda, Md.: Sticky Toffee Pudding!

The real English kind. I can't get enough of it!

Tom Sietsema: Yes!

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Arlington, Va.: Doesn't how we react to service issues depend on why we're eating out?

My in-laws are a nightmare -- totally demanding and very flakey. They have no tastebuds as far as I can tell. So as long as the staff can cope, we'll overlook the food.

If we're out with our kids, we need quick and tasty. Charm is optional.

If it's us without kids or in-laws, the food needs to be fantastic. The service should be pleasant, but who cares if it's slow? Someone else is dealing with our kids. Squee!

Tom Sietsema: I bet you have low blood pressure (and good for you). Your post makes a lot of sense.

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Arlington, Va.: I want to see coconut cream pie!!

Tom Sietsema: Totally off topic, but how did Mary Ann make coconut cream pie on Gilligan's Island?

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Burke, Va.: Hi Tom, Love your chat and read it every week! I wanted to share a quick story of a good meal that we had out in suburbia last night. We went to Rafagino in Burke, since we had never been before, and really enjoyed it. We started with a baked calamari that was made with herbs, garlic, bread crumbs, and a little avocado and crab salad that the server split for us. The main courses were a generously cut bone in veal chop and beef tenderloin saltimbocca (we took leftovers home of both as well as ordering a gnocchi bolognese to go for lunch during the week), and house made tiramisu for dessert. Paulina was our server and she was wonderful, personable, knowledgeable and very efficient with the timing of the meal, wine, dessert, and espresso. We also chatted with the owner a little at the end of the meal and she was also very welcoming. I thought more of your readers out this way might be interested in hearing about our experience.

Tom Sietsema: It's been several years since I last dined there, but my memories of the shopping center restaurant -- dashing host, mussels served in a hinged copper pot, house-made tiramisu -- are mostly pleasant ones.

washingtonpost.com: Review of Rafagino Ristorante.

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breakfast restaurants: It's hard enough trying to staff cooks and servers for lunch.

That the main reason more restaurants don't do it. Profit margins are also much smaller and the public is MUCH pickier about breakfast than any other meal of the day. It's not worth it to most restaurants to try it.

Tom Sietsema: I guess you've been there, done that?

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Washington, D.C.: Hi Tom --

Just wondering where in DC I can find a restaurant that serves ostrich. In the alternative, can you suggest a restaurant,that with advance notice, will prepare it? Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: Gosh, I haven't seen ostrich on a menu in a long time. Occasionally, restaurants offer the lean, beefy-looking (and expensive) meat as a special, but I know of no place that features it as a regular item. Maybe a chatter can help you out today?

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Washington, D.C.: With all of the comments recently on poor service, I wanted to pass on an example of a waiter going above and beyond.

At the end of our lunch at Capital Grille, Reza, our server, discovered an order slip had inadvertently been left on my plate under the French fries. He apologized profusely and insisted on, not only sending me home with a new burger, but giving the table two complimentary desserts to share. I explained that it was unnecessary, but he was adamant about ensuring we remembered Capital Grille for its service as well as its food. By the way, the burger was delicious. Thank you Reza for your service. We will be back soon.

Tom Sietsema: Nice touch, but overly generous in my book. Man, if I had a free entree replacement (and dessert!) for every order slip that landed on my plate I'd be .... I'd be ... I'd be a lot heavier than I am now.

washingtonpost.com: Review of the Capital Grille.

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Rockville, Md.: Tom, where would you rank the burger at Colorado Kitchen among the ones at Palena, Central, Morton's, etc.?

Tom Sietsema: Below Palena and Central -- really, they're in a class all their own -- but above Morton's. That said, Gillian Clark makes the kind of burger at Colo Kitchen that I wish I could make at home.

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Bethesda, Md.: The "why we are eating out" comment is right on. That is why it is so important for servers to "read" their customers, which is one of the hardest things to learn as a server. It comes with time.

Tom Sietsema: Right-o. I recently had a waiter SIT DOWN NEXT TO ME IN A BOOTH. He obviously didn't "read" my table.

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"I'm a blunt person...": Ha! A waitress described herself as blunt? That usually means, "I'm very rude and think tact is for suckers, but I frame it as being blunt so people think it's charming."

Tact is essential to good service. If you're "blunt", get out of the restaurant business and go work at the DMV.

Seriously, that's the best laugh I've had in weeks.

Tom Sietsema:"If you're blunt, get out of the restaurant business and go work at the DMV" --- or CVS, I would add!

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Scruffy Bars, Desserts: Great Food, Scruffy Bar: Quarry House (okay not _fancy_ food, but very good bar food!)

Desserts: something creative for goodness sake, and not everything has to be heavy. Lemon cake, a cool new flavor of homemade ice cream, tortes, mix in some caramel somewhere...mmm.

Also, I think restaurants could sell more deserts if they gave "1/2 size" portions, for people who just want a bite or two. Compare it to bars that sell 1/2 glasses of wine.

Tom Sietsema: Yes, yes! The Quarry House is great fun.

And I second the small dessert plea. (The new Rock Creek in Mazza offers a trio of petite tastes on one plate, fyi)

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Washington, D.C.: I believe Teaism has an ostrich burger on its menu.

Tom Sietsema: I believe you might be right.

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Silver Spring, Md.: I had just made a reservation at 2941 for my wife's birthday next month and we were both very excited about. Should I reconsider with the change in chefs? It sounds as if we have nothing to worry about under Chef Bryan but just want to get your thoughts.

Tom Sietsema: Actually, I think you're in for a real treat. Scott Bryan, who starts Monday, has a terrific resume, and a month from now gives him plenty of time to create and finesse a menu of his own design. Just do us a favor and report back on your meal, OK?

washingtonpost.com: Food Flash on 2941.

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Annapolis, Md.: Hi Tom,

I want to reply to one of your reader's blog posts about my restaurant, O'Learys Seafood Restaurant, on Wednesday the 26th. It read:

"Annapolis, Md.: Hi Tom-

Just a heads up. We ate at O'Leary's 10 days ago. Average meal at best. What used to be a reliably great meal is now choices from a menu assembled from lower-cost ingredients. Word around town is that the manager is new, and obviously isn't operating at 100%. Example: my porkchops with caramelized onions and special mac and cheese should have been described as porkchops sprinkled with paprika, with a tablespoon of steamed onions and a 1/2 c dry penne cooked with breadcrumbs on top- of course for almost $30. This restaurant has taken a turn for the worse, and quickly. Just thought you'd want to know. Enjoy your column...!"

First, though I an accused of having a sublime and sometimes agnostic management style, I doubt that it has changed THAT much in the nearly ten years that I have owned it. I don't know what the "word" around town is but I have been working 110% of the time at making O'Learys Seafood Restaurant the best it can be...Are we there yet? No. Will we ever be? No. But we soldier on none-the-less. I'll allow for any customer who has an unenjoyable meal to voice their opinion, but I submit that having AN unsatisfying entree of pork-chops at what is ostensibly a SEAFOOD restaurant does not rise to the three-alarm fire that "quickly taking a turn for the worse..." implies. Lastly, I trust that you Tom do not rely upon one customer's questionable facts and opinions as a basis for your extremely knowledgeable perspective. To wit: "Tom Sietsema: I am so sorry to hear about the change in quality at what used to be one of my favorite reasons to visit Annapolis."

Sincerely,

Paul Meyer

Owner (Since 1998)

Tom Sietsema: Welcome to the chat, Mr. Meyer, and thanks for your comments.

Rest assured, while I rely on readers to be my eyes and ears out there, I do not base my own opinion on a single rant (or rave) from anyone I don't know personally. I tend to publish such missives to see if there's any consensus and fuel discussion.

washingtonpost.com: Review of O'Learys.

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Washington, D.C.: I have to give your fellow food section writers some props on the Cowgirl Creamery sandwich article. I'm eating the vegetarian one now... bleu cheese, artichoke, olive tapenade and cream spread. Fantastic! And the staff there are so friendly.

Tom Sietsema: The fresh-faced gals there look like they were flown in from Marin County, no?

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Foliage Dining: Some of my faves are:

Becky's Diner in Portland, ME

Black Point Inn for fine dining (near Portland, ME)

Jumpin Jay's Fish Cafe in Portsmouth, NH

Petey's in Rye, NH for great lobster.

The Friendly Toast in Portsmouth, NH for an arterly clogging breakfast to remember.

These aren't necessarily fine dining establishments (except for Black Point - which is quite nice), but the food is delicious.

Tom Sietsema: Skip the leaves and check out the eats!

Thanks for the intel.

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Charlottesville, Va.: My husband and I are visiting D.C. this weekend and staying near the Adams Morgan/Dupont Circle area. We want a romantic, authentic restaurant with good (affordable) wine and no particular type of cuisine, for around $30 a plate. There seem to be so many great reviews, I'm not sure where to start. Do you have any suggestions for these out-of-towners?

Tom Sietsema: In Dupont Circle, try the Greek-themed Mourayo, a trim and handsome outpost that does well by seafood. In Adams Morgan, I very much enjoy the spirited Casa Oaxaca, although tequila or beer are better lubricants than wine. And in between those neighborhoods, there's Regent Thai for the obvious in rather elegant environs.

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Washington, D.C.: Tom -

I am writing to you mostly to get this off my chest, as I don't really expect the restaurant is going to do anything.

Last Thursday I went to a going away lunch at M&S Grill on 14th St. We were a party of 7 and were sat at a table for 10.

The server, mentioned that he thought we would be a table of 10, although the reservation was never for more than 8, and was confirmed that morning for 7. No big deal, where else would they have sat us anyway?

As our orders were being taken he asked several people, including myself, if they would like a Garden salad. Never did he mention that this did not come with the entrees that were being ordered or that this was an extra charge. However, if you looked on the menu it said a Mixed Green Salad could be added for $1.95. Again, I was fine with the extra couple of bucks and ordered a salad.

We eventually received the salads and drinks. But, by the time our entrees came, and we were all finished with soups and salad, no plates had been cleared. We ended up stacking them ourselves so that our lunches could be served. These plates remained for a good 10-15 minutes before anyone took them. Also, refills had to be asked for...generally we were just not well taken care of.

None of this was really a problem until the check arrived. First, the salads, were not $1.95, since they were Garden Salads, not the mixed green, they were on the order of $5 a piece. Which, kind of made me made, you already up-sold me to the salad, be tricky and go for the extra $3... I think it would have been appropriate for the server to point this out. Second, he had written in a 20% tip for himself... which we were not paying.

So, we left his enough to cover the bill and a $10 tip... which was about 10%. Small yes, but he really didn't deserve more. Plus, we wrote out the reasons for the reduced tip on the back of the check.

On the way out the manager noticed that the one of the party members looked upset and stopped her to talk. She explained the situation to him as the rest of us waited outside.

Approximately, 5 minutes later the server comes outside saying we didn't leave enough (the other member of our party is still talking to the manager at this point). After arguing back and forth with him and explaining that we did in fact leave enough, we eventually gave him another $10. I know we left enough. We counted three different times, by two different people. At this point I just wanted him gone.

Once the final member of our party came out I decided to take my turn with the manager and add this new information. The manager talked to me and tried to provide excuses as to why the dishes weren't cleared, but didn't really respond to any of my other points. He did take my name, telephone number, and email address; so I expected him to contact me later. That has not happened.

I have learned from this experience, if there is a problem, don't hand the check to the server, go straight to the manager...although in this case I don't know that it would have helped.

Thanks for letting me vent.

Tom Sietsema: Venting is what you can feel free to do here! All I ask is that I get all the important details and that chatters not embellish their stories.

Some thoughts:

1) The upselling was unfortunate. Regardless of the price, the waiter should have made you aware of the extra cost of the salad and pointed out the salad options (there wasn't just one, but two).

2) I, too, dislike it when appetizer plates haven't been cleared ahead of the arrival of main dishes. Even if the waiter was in the weeds, didn't SOMEONE -- a manager, a busboy, a hostess -- notice you were sitting there with empty plates?

3) Service charges are frequently added for groups of six or more, but that doesn't mean you can't dispute them if you're not happy with your treatment.

4) The waiter should not have confronted you, especially since you say you left behind a note explaining the low gratuity.

5) The manager was approached by two of your party and didn't take the oppportunity to correct the problems on the spot? That's not a smart manager. And to take someone's card and not follow up is just bad business. I mean, thousands of eyes are going to see your rant today, tomorrow -- and possibly forever in the archives.

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K Street: Tom, I recently went to Restaurant K, the new restaurant that moved into the space that was very quickly vacated by Jimmy's on K St. I must say, I was very disappointed. There were 4 of us, and we were seated at a table set for 2. We had to ask several times for additional place settings. The service was slow, especially towards the end of the meal. We began to wonder if the waiter was going to return with our credit card. The restaurant was almost empty despite our 8pm Saturday reservation. The food was mediocre. Steaks were all overcooked. And, to go with today's topic, the deserts were not even remotely interesting. Just thought I'd share my 2 cents on a new restaurant.

Tom Sietsema: I actually had a nice dessert there, a not-too-heavy bread pudding made with a silken vanilla custard. But the service was goofy, for sure. I asked for a viognier and the server asked me to repeat my wine order twice because "you're the first person to say it right." And, I got my order slip on my entree.

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washingtonpost.com: The Dish on Restaurant K by Alison Swope.

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Negative Schmegative: Dear Tom,

Regarding the questions last week about why you don't do more negative reviews, I'd like to add that the positive reviews have a more purposeful aim: people read your work to figure out where TO eat. Granted, where NOT to eat, is relevant, but frankly, I've been working on a compliation of places you recommended for a year now and I'm still busy!

That said, I do have a negative review -- why do you keep throwing Rustico out as a recommendation? To put it bluntly, the food is just not good. Okay, so they have beer tastings. But doesn't that make them a good bar, not a good restaurant?

Tom Sietsema: For me, it's all about providing readers with helpful information and a proper (and hopefully interesting) mix of restaurants. Negative reviews are part of the drill. Really, wouldn't you prefer to have ME rather than YOU spend hundreds of dollars on middling cooking at House of Hype?

Let me set the record straight: I have not "thrown" Rustico out as a recommendation, ever. In fact, I've never eaten a meal there!

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Washington, D.C.: For person looking for beer tastings-I know that the Brickskeller isn't a pinnacle of haute cuisine, but they (and their sister restaurant RFD in the Penn Quarter) have tastings almost every month. Dogfish recently opened a new location in Falls Church, and they're well known champions of beer and food pairings.

Also, my friends and I had a private beer tasting about a year ago hosted by Craft Brewed Events, who we found when they did the beer for a friend's wedding (www.craftbrewedevents.com). They did a great tasting of about 12 beers, which they paired extremely well with our food menu. And the price was very reasonable.

Tom Sietsema: You are a sudsy fount of information. We thank you.

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Confirming Reservations: I am finding that an increasing number of restaurants want me to call and confirm my reservation. I find this irksome and annoying -- when I make a promise to be somewhere, I will be there and if that changes, I am polite enough to let them know. Why is this happening? Do you think it should? Can't we just trust each other? (And if the restaurant can't trust its patrons, they should hold a credit card number.)

Tom Sietsema: Yeah, I feel the burden should be on the restaurant. But maybe I'm overlooking something, like an epidemic of rude diners not showing up for reservations or something. Do any industry insiders care to weigh in on the topic?

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Alexandria, Va.: Tom,

Recently, we were dining at Corner Bistro in Mclean, VA with my brother and sister-in-law. Shortly after ordering a bottle of wine from our waitress, the sommelier appeared at our table, explaining that they were out of that particular wine (a grenache priced at $32) but thought that we would enjoy this other bottle that he had with him.

He went on to explain that it was most similar to the wine that we had ordered, and so we assumed that meant similar in price as well.

After leaving the restaurant, we discovered that the wine he had substituted went for $48.(By no means an outrageously priced wine, but not what we were planning to spend for a weeknight dinner out.) Is this just a lesson learned... always ask what the price is, or an unfair business practice that should be brought to the management's attention?

Tom Sietsema: Shame on that sommelier! It was pefectly appropriate for him to suggest a replacement, but he should have offered up something closer in price to what you asked for -- definitely not a bottle almost $20 more than your request.

In a few restaurants I've been to recently, sommeliers have sold me a more expensive wine at the same price of my requested bottle. Nice touch. At the very least, the guy in your scenario should have pointed out the price difference BEFORE he set corkscrew to cork, or returned with the wine list for you to look at.

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Alexandria, Va.: a few items:

amen on CVS: I never went back after a last straw incident a few years ago. It is Rite Aid only now.

re: the article in Food on the difficulty of finding people to work in restaurants (even Resturant Eve!) One chef goes to cooking schools in Europe to recruit, it reported, but it did not mention the visa issue. I imagine it would be very cost ineffetive to recruit and train, only to have your workers have to leave after a year because of immigration laws.

Finally, I wanted to thank you for your wise direction on restaurants--you really have guided me well, and I often impress visitors with "my" vast knowledge of the area's dining (little do they know it is really your knowledge). Plus, I just love your writing style. One of my faves was your ode to your mother. Keep up the great work.

Tom Sietsema: You should put your question to author Jane Black. She'll likely be online during the Food section's chat at 1 p.m.

Thanks for the kind words. You just made a crazy week less so.

Folks, I got deadlines. And lunch. And ... a date tonight! So off I go. Thanks for an engaging 60 minutes.

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