Post Magazine: The Annual Dining Guide

Food critic Tom Sietsema roamed far and wide to research his yearlyguide to the best in Washington dining. For 2007, he found 50 monumentalmeals -- from the urban innovations of Minibar, to the suburban ethnic fareof Thai Square to the incomparable countryside bliss of the Inn at LittleWashington. Watch the video: A Four Star Tasting.

Tom Sietsema is The Post's food critic.

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Washington, DC: Were you at Central on Saturday night? If you were who I thought you were, you're not only a talented writer, but you are seriously HOT!

Tom Sietsema: Sorry, I was up in New York this weekend, eating around for a future Postcard column ...

Good afternoon, everyone, and thanks for interrupting your lunch to be with me for this chat. I'm munching on a peach and some water. Time to go on a diet!

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Bethesda, Md: My favorite part of the Dinig Guide was the few brief mentions you made concerning why a few good restaurants lost their shine and didn't show up on the list. Can you give us a little more info on some other big names that didn't make the list, and why?

thanks!

Tom Sietsema: Here's one of many examples: Marcel's didn't make the list this year, because I thought the French cooking at Le Paradou -- despite its creepy service -- was more interesting.

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Ashburn, VA: Tom - I loved the dining guide! But I loved the short video on Restaurant Eve even more. I wish there were more of these types of videos on restaurants. I think it really shows them off as well as helps us see what it could look like to eat there. More, please!!!

Tom Sietsema: Glad you liked that tribute to my latest four-star recipient. I wish I could give every restaurant in the guide similar (audio-visual) treatment. But they involve a lot of time and people, as you can imagine.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Great guide, yet again! Of course I was disappointed that no places in my home town were on the list. Were there any restaurants in Silver Spring that you might consider in the "51-100" category?

Tom Sietsema: Jackie's and Samantha's came thisclose to being included.

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Washington, DC: Thank you so much for the Dining Guide. Its such an easy tool to jog my memory about places to go. My question to you is this. Do you think Palena has slipped a bit from its once magical place in the hearts who knew it years ago? Many of the things that made this place great are still there, the roast chicken, the fried plate, the great burger, but some things, like the great service seem to be slipping. I asked for the cookie plate they once served to people who knew enough to ask and I was laughed at and was told "we don't do that anymore". Maybe its one fo those places I am so fond of that I just have too high expectations.

Tom Sietsema: You and I agree: The food at Palena hasn't slipped. But the service needs tweaking, which is why its rating dropped (a bit) this year.

Tom Sietsema: Palena review

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Gainesville, VA: Tom,

Thanks for all the hard work on the Guide, and for taking on an extra chat this week. I tried the Iron Bridge Wine bar in Warrenton, and thought the food and beverage were excellent, BUT: the service was dreadful, and the portions were TINY for the price. I don't believe that with two appetizers and the entree we should have left hungry, but we did.

That said, their blue cheese mac and cheese was absolutely, unbelievably, incredibly wonderful. Just give us some bread or something...don't let us leave feeling ripped off.

Tom Sietsema: I had a very knowledgeable -- and very intrusive -- server myself, so I know what you're talking about. But the charms outweigh the slips, dn't you think?

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Silver Spring, Md: Tom, I noticed you selected Raku in Bethesda. do they have a different menu from the Dupont location?

Tom Sietsema: The Raku in Bethesda has different ownership (and is much, much better than the branch in Dupont Circle, hence its exclusion).

Tom Sietsema: Raku Bethesda review

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Alexandria, VA: I know this question has been asked before, but who can we contact about making sure the Post magazine is not on the outside of the Sunday suppliment? I was very disappointed when my copy was quite mangled, which unfortunately is not an unusual occurrence.

Tom Sietsema: Send me your name, email address and location and I'll pass on your complaint to my editor.

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Urbana, Ill: For years, I've been going to Ruan Thai every time I go back to DC to see my family. My best friend from high school have been terrified that someday a food critic would name it.

Tom Sietsema: Sorry! But I'm not paid to keep (restaurant) secrets ...

Tom Sietsema: Ruan Thai review

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Arlington, Va: When restaurants like Bangkok 54 drop off the list, do they ever make it back on?

Maybe not even in conjuction with the guide, but what are some restaurants that have been good, then entered doldrums, but then bounced back?

Thanks.

Tom Sietsema: I'd be more than happy to include Bangkok 54 in a future guide -- if it shows improvement, of course.

It's certainly possible to be dropped and to reappear in the fall guide.

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Bowie, Md: Tom, if you exit the District anywhere between New Hampshire Avenue and the Wilson Bridge, you will find yourself in a jurisdiction known as Prince Georges County. It is the largest county in Maryland and houses roughly 20% of the residents of the Washington area.

Somehow, it rarely enters the dining guide.

Tom Sietsema: Tell me what I missed: Which restaurants in PG County do you think should have been included in a round-up of national treasures?ad

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Washington, DC: Did you check out Rock Creek at Mazza Gallerie? How come that wasn't in your 50 restaurants?

Tom Sietsema: For starters, it has yet to be reviewed in the Sunday Magazine ...

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Washington, DC: Tom --

A few years ago, the chef at The Oval Room offered a "cook with the chef" experience. Do you have any idea if something similar is still available in the DC area? The Oval Room has ended its program.

Thanks!

Tom Sietsema: If there are any chefs or restaurateurs out there who are doing this -- offering diners the chance to cook their meal -- please let me know.

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Tysons Corner, VA: Tom -- we have reservations at 2941 this Saturday as a special treat. Any reason other than space that this restaurant didn't make your guide?

Tom Sietsema:2941 is in major transition, having just lost its chef, Jonathan Krinn. But you should keep your reservations. Krinn's replacement hails from the very good Veitas in New York. Here's the scoop:

Tom Sietsema: Food Flash on 2941

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Washington, DC: I had one of the best meals of my life at Komi last year, but I wish they offered a lighter version of the tasting menu. Not only is it hard to justify the tasting menu price tag too often, but by the time I got to the main course I had pretty much run out of steam (though it didn't stop me from polishing off my dessert). I have the impression they're so popular they don't need to entice additional diners with other options, but surely I'm not the only one who wishes I could dine there more often. And would love to get the parade of hors d'oeuvres and first course only. What do you think of the tasting menu only approach?

Tom Sietsema: I'm not a big fan. Komi would serve everyone better if it pared back its (sensational) menu.

tom: Komi review

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Washington, DC: Hi Tom. I'm glad to see you have a new favorite Korean place. I tried Yechon twice and wasn't impressed. I'm looking forward to trying this other place.

Also, did anything come of the "mangled Magazine task force"? My Magazine comes mangled probably 3 times out of 4. Yesterday's cover was shredded beyond recongnition!

Tom Sietsema: As far as I know, Yechon is as good as ever, but I chose to highlight Oegadgib this season because it stood out from the crowd, thanks to a a few unusual dishes, really good panchan and a deal of a (meat) meal for $16.

Tom Sietsema: Oedagib review

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Silver Spring, MD: Was Michael's in Worthington, Minn.? My husband and I remember fondly stumbling upon a great place by that name during a cross-country trip in 1975. We were also charmed by the beautiful town and lake.

PSZ

Tom Sietsema: That's the Michael's of my youth! My family home is on that lake -- Okabena.

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Washington, DC: I'm a little confused by the theme - "national treasures". You say they are standouts in a crowded dining scene. So why wouldn't they be all 4- and 3-stars? Or were these 50 restaurants the top 50 in DC? Are there some with 3 or 4 stars who weren't included?

Tom Sietsema: The subtext is "monumental meals." (Some monuments are big, some are small.) But they all have to at least be "good" to be included in such a select list.

In at least one case, I left out a three star restaurant because there was a better contender to fill its position, and I was looking for diversity on the list.

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Majestic in Old Town Alexandria: Good Morning, Tom

I see that you give the Majestic 2 1/2 stars in your dining review. I ate there recently and while the food was good (especially the caesar salad)service was a bit flat(asked what was in the compound butter on my steak and never got an answer, for one example) and the dining room was unbearably noisy when the place is going full-tilt. It's hard to speak using normal tones when it's so loud plus the banquet tables are close. I felt very aware of my conversation due to this.

I know you consider ambience when you rate a restaurant,and often mention noisy rooms. How did you find the atmosphere and service at the Majestic?

Tom Sietsema: I thought the service was attentive and informed. The room is a charmer (love the bar, the booths, those old pictures, the open kitchen). Like a lot of hot spots, Majestic can also get pretty loud at full tilt.

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Ashburn, VA: Hi - would you consider Oyamel 'kid friendly'? I have great kids, but, I don't take them fancy places other than Ruth's Chris (where they are surprisingly welcomed and treated so nicely all the time). I want to try it for my birthday but want my kids included.

Tom Sietsema: Your kids would LOVE Oyamel. And if they can handle Ruth's Chris, go for it!

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H2O: More of a comment than a question. One of your reader reviews of Hook wrote, "I would reccomend non bottled water and the beet salad at the bar." I was at Hook not too long ago and wasn't offered anything BUT bottled water. The waitress was pouring very generously and when we received our bill (party of 5) we were charged $46 for water! Just a head's up out there for anyone planning a trip to Hook. Great food though! Loved the guide btw!

Tom Sietsema: Didn't that trend end a few years back, the constant water pushing? I'm sorry to see Hook (of all places) fall into that situation.

Personally, I have chosen not to drink bottled water anymore. It's my little way of saluting Al Gore and protecting the globe.

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Rockville, MD: Have you ever considered a different system for your ratings? So often you will write a review where you rave about the food but mention something else (service, appearance) that you didn't like, and then the rating will be two and a half stars. Well, I care about food first and foremost (as I'm sure most do), followed by service and then appearance.ambiance. It can be tough to determine how much of the rating is based on one factor or another. What about separate food and service/ambiance ratings?

Tom Sietsema: What's wrong with two-and-a-half stars? In my book, that's "good to excellent." No shame in that -- unless, of course, a restaurant thinks of itself, or aspires to be, better than that.

Just to remind you: The quality of the food accounts for about 50 percent of any restaurant rating; service and ambience account for about 25 percent each.

Tom Sietsema: Ratings Code

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Washington, DC: It seems you are quite the fan of the many concepts attributed to Jose Andres. However, no mention of Zaytinya amongst the treasures? Has the kitchen suffered under new management or a change in the chef?

Tom Sietsema: My last meal at Zaytinya included a few weak dishes. I still like the place, but not as much as I did a year ago.

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Washington DC: Love the dining guide, just wanted to make a personal observation though. Farrah Olivia is always rated high but I went there with a group of friends during restaurant week and we were all very disapointed. I just want to say to restaurant owners out there, please don't participate in RW if you are only giving a half hearted effort. We have no plans to ever go back.

Tom Sietsema: It's hard to judge a restaurant during Restaurant Week. The audience is different, the service is stretched and the food can be other than the usual -- though I believe it should still reflect the style of the chef.

Going to a restaurant during the twice-a-year promotion is a bit like dining out on New Year's Eve or Valentine's Day. Among other things, consumer expectations run really high.

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NW DC: Tom, I have a question about your writing style. You often use what I'll call "parentheticals" in your writings. They're often very helpful in providing clarification or detail, often very amusing. But, sometimes they come off as more than a little harsh. As an example, in your review of The Oval Room, you have a parenthetical comparing the veal dish that you didn't like to Vick's. Okay, I understand that the you thought the menthol flavor of the sauce and the parmesan crisps had a medicinal quality on your palate. Was your intention to inject humor in to the review with the Vick's comment?

Tom Sietsema: In addition to being factually accurate and fair, reviews should be entertaining reads. So, yes, my Vick's statement was meant to be humorous. (But I swear, that veal accessory DID taste like medicine!)

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State College, PA: A peach and water for lunch? So, when do you start going back out and dining for the next set of reviews?

Tom Sietsema: I've already begun! (Excluding the peach, obviously.)

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Silver Spring, MD: Just wanted to say thanks for a balanced and well-researched guide. Widened my horizons a bit and reminded me of favorites.

And I'm pleased to see the chat response seems positive too, for once.

Tom Sietsema: I'm happy to hear from everyone -- Doubting Thomases included.

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Re: PG County Restaurants you missed...: NONE! I don't believe their is a restaurant in that county worth mentioning; if there is, then that Chef/owner should be doing something to get your attention. I have lived in the county for most of my life and can't think of a single restaurant that makes your grade. Keep up the great work, I love the guide and don't have a problem driving to DC or VA for better food.

Tom Sietsema: Believe me, I'd LOVE to include a PG County restaurant. But the reality is, most good/interesting restaurants tend to be concentrated in a city's center.

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and more Kudos...: to the magazine, for putting the advertisement dining guide as an insert and in smaller pages so that readers can tell which were unbiased reviews and which were paid advertisements.

I recall that being a big issue last year.

And is Cuba de Ayer really that good? I can't wait to get up there (even from Alexandria)

Tom Sietsema: My Cuban friends like the place as much as I do, if that's any help.

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Washington DC: What, no column this week? (kidding).

Did you forget to mention Popeye's when Schroder asked you about your guilty pleasures?

Tom Sietsema: Space prevented me from including ALL my guilty pleasures, which certanly includes spicy fried chicken ...

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Kensington, MD: Hi Tom,

In order to maintain diversity of the Dining Guide, do you limit the number of restaurants of the same owner?

It seems that each year, one of the Black's restaurants makes the list (Addie's, BlackSalt, Black Market, Blacks), but I don't see any repeats of the same restaurant in consecutive years.

Are some of the Black's restaurants slipping, or is this just a consequence of an attempt to keep the dining guide diverse and avoiding some stagnancy?

Tom Sietsema: If a restaurateur has four or five restaurants, and they're all great, I'd certainly try to include them. (See last year's guide, which included all of Jose Andres's places in Penn Quarter and beyond.) Right now, I think Blacksalt is the best of Jeff Black's sundry restaurants.

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Washington, DC: Tom,

I'm enjoying the Dining Guide. To the earlier poster's comment, it seems like the list is somewhat heavy with restaurants in the District. I know that you make attempts to go far and beyond the District. With that being said, did you give any thought to trying to balance the list out by geography, or was it more of a "this is, as of this date, where the best and most exciting plates are coming from?"

Is the list solely your decision, or do you have other folks who weigh in?

Tom Sietsema: You're a careful observor. In years past, I've included more non-Washington places. But this year, there was so much (restaurant) action within the city that I felt I couldn't spare room for the likes of Charleston in Baltimore or Lewnes' in Annapolis.

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re: Hook and water: We dined at Hook in July and were served tap water. I've had the water jig pulled on me at Il Tarimisu ("sparkling or flat") but that was a while ago. I always ask for "tap"

Tom Sietsema: At CityZen, one of the choices is referred to as "house" water. Nice touch!

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Washington, DC: Tom,

I love your chats but I am not a Post subscriber. How can I get a copy of your dining guide?

Thanks again for all of your efforts.

washingtonpost.com: It's available online: 2007 Dining Guide

Tom Sietsema: There you go!

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Tysons Corner, VA: While you're passing on complaints to the higher-ups at the Post, here's mine.

It's insidious of the Post to publish a PULLOUT list of recommended restaurants within the pages of the Dining Guide feature. Clearly, readers are led to believe this pullout guide matches your recommendations, but no, look closer and you'll see the words "Advertising Supplement" in small letters atop the pullout guide.

This is a disservice to your readers and to the restaurants you recommend. Can't the Post let the almighty dollar take a back seat in this instance? Sheesh.

Tom Sietsema: (Silence from Tom.)

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Bottled water & Hook: I was at Hook a week ago & was offered tap, along with the bottled water options. I was actually a bit surprised that, with its sustainability message, Hook hadn't jumped on the anti-bottled bandwagon, like the restaurants in SF & NYC.

Tom Sietsema: Me too!

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Washington, DC: I hate to attack an icon, but what exactly is it about Jaleo that everyone seems to like? I don't think I've ever been to a restaurant where so many completely different dishes taste so similar. Go once and it's fine, but on return visits it becomes frustrating that the rabbit you're eating today is virtually indistinguishable from the chicken you had last week.

Tom Sietsema: Really? That has not been my experience at all, and I've been going there for years ...

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re: Geography: The online map funtion is a really good way to see and understand the geographic diversity of the Guide. Surely, a reasonable person would conclude that a great deal of time and effort went in to including places outside of the city, even if there are fewer on them this year.

Tom Sietsema: Music to my ears. Thanks -- and a big thanks to Erin Hartigan, over at wpni.com, for putting that map together!

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Washington, DC: Hi Tom, love the cooking at so many of the places in the Dining Guide, but I just can't stand to eat there because of noise so loud I have to shout and having fellow diners rubbing up against me as the get in and out of their tables (recent examples, Central, Hook, Cashion's). Which of the top restaurants do a great job of providing BOTH great food and a pleasant environment?

Tom Sietsema: Corduroy. Komi. Vidalia.

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Arlington VA: RE: Cooking with the Chef - When we went to Bebo a few months ago they offered cooking classes right in the front of the house. Chef Donna was leading one while we were there and everyone looked like they were having a fun time - does that count? (P.S. We sat at the bar and that definitely seems the way to minimize the service issues there and enjoy the delicious food!)

Tom Sietsema: I'd love to watch Roberto make pizzas!

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Washington, D.C.: Great Dining Guide as always. What really struck me was the video of Restaurant Eve's tasting room. The efficiency with which the the cooks passed dishes with their pinkie fingers (!!) was amazing. I had no idea that such concentration was involved. It looked like surgery.

Tom Sietsema: Yep. Cathal Armstrong runs an operating room like few others....

That's all for today, folks. Thanks for your questions and comments. I'll be on again, at 11 a.m. this Wednesday, to answer any burning dining guide questions you might have.

Ciao (and chow) for now.

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