A chat with the Food section staff is a chance for you to ask questions, offer suggestions and share information with other cooks and food lovers. It is a forum for discussion of food trends, ingredients, menus, gadgets and anything else food-related.

Each chat, we will focus on topics from the day's Food section. You can also read the transcripts of past chats. Do you have a question about a particular recipe or a food-related anecdote to share? The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET. Read about the staff of the Food section.

The transcript follows.

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Bonnie: Greetings on a thankfully rainy afternoon here in the nation's capital. Did Jane's piece on burrata send you in search of the oozy, creamy delicacy today? Did Walter's article on dim sum make you want to head for one of his recommended restaurants? For today's chat, we've got Chef on Call author David Hagedorn and Mary Lee Montfort, one of the bake-sale experts, who graciously gave good counsel and recipes to Troop 4445.

For giveaways, best TWO posters today could win either "Bubby's Homemade Pies" by Ron Silver and Jen Bervin or "I'm Dreaming of Chocolate Christmas" by Marcel Desaulniers. We'll choose by the end of the chat.

Editor Joe's still away, and Jane Black is on assignment. The rest of us are like culinary operators, standing by...

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Girl Scout Bake Sale?: I was perplexed by the Chef on Call article today because when I was a Girl Scout 15 years ago, we weren't allowed to have bake sales because of the potential for the Girl Scouts of America, as an organization, to get sued if we failed to disclose allergens or otherwise made someone sick. I can only imagine thoughts along this line have not gotten less strict. How was this troop allowed to hold a bake sale as a troop?

David Hagedorn: The GSA signed off on the event and everything was vetted by the Health Department, which also certified the event. All of the food was labeled; the labels clearly indicated which items included nuts, etc. Any consumers who had questions about ingredients posed them and the girls were able to answer accurately because they made all of items themselves.

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Philadelphia, Pa.: Hi there, do you have any good recipes for making plain couscous taste good? I always buy it boxed, with a spice pack included, but it would be so much more cost effective to buy it plain in bulk and season myself. Also, any good ideas on how to make it a meal? I added edamame last time, which was good, but I could use more suggestions.

Thanks!

Bonnie: It's easy to boost the flavor of couscous from the inside out...instead of water, try chicken or vegetable broth, or even carrot juice (see in a recipe link coming right up).

Making it a meal might depend on just how hungry you are! Some of these recipes have many add-in ingredients -- mango or chickpeas or roasted vegetables or shrimp, for example. Couscous from a box mix can get a little gummy sometimes, and you're certainly right about the cost effectiveness of buying plain couscous in larger quantities. Experiment and have some fun.

Mango Couscous
Lemony Couscous With Scallions and Chickpeas
Ginger Shrimp With Carrot Couscous
Couscous With Seven Vegetables
Couscous With Chickpeas and Carrots

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San Francisco: Is Joe back from Japan? Please say yes! I'm heading there in a few weeks and I would love to hear about his food adventures there. Was it hard without being able to read Japanese (unless Joe reads and speaks Japanese, in which case I'm very impressed)?

Bonnie: Still away, having fun. He didn't leave here speaking Japanese (well, maybe sushi), but he may come back with cooking terms under his belt. I know for at least one cooking session a translator was going to be on hand.

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Cider donuts: I believe last year someone wrote in with the name and location of an orchard in the Shenandoah Valley that sold cider donuts in season. Does anyone remember that information? I have a hankering for them if it's not too late. Thanks.

Jane Touzalin: At Marker-Miller Orchards in Winchester, a bake shop stocks what the Web site calls "our famous apple cider doughnuts." But, as with all ephemeral food items, it's best to call ahead to check. The orchard is at 3035 Cedar Creek Grade; 540-662-1980; www.markermillerorchards.com (includes directions).

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Southern, Md.: You'll be my heroes if you can help me out! I have to bring a dish to a party this weekend, the only problem is that I have very little time the day of the party. This means I'll need to make it the night before or I'll need something that will only take a few minutes to throw together the day of. I would love something new and different that everyone will enjoy. Bonus (hero) points if it's something grazable/ finger food that doesn't require forks or knives. Thank you so much!

David Hagedorn: Cut bacon strips in half and bake them halfway through (5 minutes at 450). Blot on paper towels. When cool, wrap a slice around a pitted prune and stick a toothpick through it. To serve, bake at 450 until the bacon is crispy, about 5 minutes. Blot on paper towels, pile them up on a nice plate and serve. They are yummy.

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Arlington, Va.: Regarding couscous, I usually toast it in a dry pan before adding boiling chicken broth and covering tightly to steam until done. Much better flavor.

Bonnie: Good tip, thanks.

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Arlington, Va.: Where can I get in contact with a local CSA? How much does it normally cost?

Walter: The best place to go for CSA information is localharvest.com which lists farms across the country. Prices vary greatly. There are full shares and half shares. Some deliver to homes which costs more. Also, the cost depends on the number of weeks the program runs.

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Caramel Apple Pie: I am dying to find a recipe for caramel apple pie -- I was out for dinner when I was visiting some friends in Florida and I had a slice there. Do you have a great recipe for it?

David Hagedorn: Rose Levy Beranbaum, in "The Pie and Pastry Bible" (Scribner,1998), has great recipes and outlines perfect techniques. She always takes the juices that come out of macerated apples and caramelizes them to add back to the fruit before baking. She also has a great recipe for Tatre Tatin, which is an upside-down caramelized apple tart, but I don't know why the version could not be made right-side up and achieve the effect you are looking for.

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Hazelnut Meal, what to do?: Hi there. I have a half-full bag of hazelnut meal/flour in my freezer. You know, it's been there awhile and I'm thinking I need to use it up. The recipe I bought it for originally turned out not that great. Do you or the chatters have any ideas or recipes to suggest?

Jane Touzalin: Sure do -- These were a Staff Fave from Bonnie Benwick, who took the packaged-meal approach to save time and make a smoother, more pliable cookie. Enjoy:
Hazelnut Cornucopias
Makes 12 to 16 cookies
When these crispy cookies are rolled or formed, they create a tender delivery system for fresh berries and a dollop of lightly whipped cream. Because they are fragile, they will soften quickly in damp weather, so either bake them shortly before serving, keep them warm in a 100-degree oven or freeze until ready to use. Adapted from "Julia Child & More Company" (Knopf, 1980):
3/4 cup toasted, shelled and finely ground hazelnuts (about 3 ounces whole hazelnuts) or 3/4 cup hazelnut meal
1/2 cup sugar
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus extra for the baking sheets
1/8 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons heavy cream
2 egg whites
4 level tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon dark rum
Have ready a thin spatula and 4-inch metal molds or 6-ounce small Pyrex bowls.
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
In a small bowl, combine the ground hazelnuts and sugar.
In a medium bowl, use a spatula to spread around the softened butter. Using a spatula, blend the nut mixture into the butter and mix just until combined. Add the salt and the cream and mix just until combined. Add the egg whites and mix just until combined. Fold the flour into the mixture in three additions, then add the rum. The batter should be heavy, and a bit like wet sand. It needs to used right away.
On a nonstick baking sheet, use a piece of softened butter or its buttery wax paper wrapper to draw and then fill in three 5-inch circles. (These will be the shape of the first 3 cookies that you bake.) Drop a 2-tablespoon blob of cookie batter on each circle and, with the back of a spoon, spread it out in a widening circle until it is 4 1/2 inches wide, making sure that the edges are the same thickness as the center. The batter will be about 1/16 inch thick and does not have to be spread evenly; spots where the cookie sheet almost shows through the batter will fill in during baking. There should be a good 1/2 inch between the circles. Bake for 4 minutes, but start watching after 2 minutes. You can be forming another set of cookies on a separate baking sheet during this time.
The cookies are done when the outer 1/4 inch of each cookie is slightly browned. (If they are cooking too fast, reduce the oven temperature as needed.) Pull out the baking sheet from the oven and set it on the open oven door so that the cookies cool for 3 to 5 seconds. This will keep the cookies pliable so that you can mold them.
Then, 1 at a time, gently slither a thin spatula or pancake turner under the cookie all around to loosen it from the sheet. Lift the cookie, which will droop slightly, and turn it upside down on a clean work surface. Quickly wrap the cookie around the mold or upside-down Pyrex bowl. Repeat rapidly with the remaining 2 cookies. In less than 1 minute, the rolled cookies will have crisped and you can gently dislodge them from the forms.
Close the door and wait for the oven to come back to the right temperature, then bake another sheet, and form another batch. You may have to remove crumbs or re-butter the 3 circles for subsequent batches.
Let cookies cool completely on a rack or parchment paper.

Bonnie: Oh man, I love those cookies. So elegant. But on a damp day like today, get them into an airtight container as quickly as possible. They're fragile, but they freeze well (just threw that in since we're fielding freezable queries today).

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Couscous: The secret to good couscous is using the oil that comes with packed sun-dried tomatoes -- yum! Add other throw-ins like chickpeas, shredded carrots, parsley, tomatoes, raisins, etc., etc. Can be eaten hot or cold.

Bonnie: Another couscous heard from.

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Madison, Wisc.: Thanks for taking my question. As sometimes happens, I found myself purchasing more than I need. This time it was cheese. Could you tell me if cheese can be frozen and for how long before quality would suffer?

Thank you!

Bonnie: You certainly can freeze some cheeses, although the texture and flavor will suffer (wouldn't you rather go crazy with recipe testing, or have a cheesy party?). Hard cheeses fair best; softer cheeses will get crumbly or even separate and become watery.

In her "Can I Freeze It?" guide, Susie Theodorou recommends cutting hard cheeses such as cheddar, edam, swiss and the Parmesans into small blocks, then wrapping each block in layers of heavy freezer paper and aluminum foil. They can be frozen for up to 4 months. Wrap blue cheeses the same way; they can last for up to 3 months. If the cheese is already vacuum-packed, it's got 1 month in the freezer. When you're ready to thaw any of these, do it slowly, in the refrigerator.

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Vegetarian Dim Sum: I went to a vegetarian dim sum house in New York and absolutely loved it. Is there anywhere around here that is good for vegetarian dim sum? It doesn't need to be exclusively vegetarian, just somewhere with plenty of vegetarian options and clear labeling, so I know what I'm getting. Any ideas?

Walter: Dim sum in the Washington area does not favor vegetarians. A pork and shrimp lover would feel more at home.

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Midwest: Thank goodness for this forum, because I could really use a primer on freezing foods. My first question is, what is the best method for freezing soups and stews so that the flavor is best preserved and there is no "snow" when I defrost them?

My second question is about freezing casseroles (can you tell I have a baby on the way?!). I assume I freeze unbaked -- right? In what kind of container? When I finally serve them, can I bake right out of the freezer (and for how much longer would they need to bake?) or do I have to defrost them first and bake as I would if they were unfrozen? Any other pointers?

Thanks so much for your help!

Bonnie: More freezing going on out there. For those soups and stews, let them cool completely. Then transfer them, in batches, into good, quart-size, zip-style heavy-duty plastic food storage freezer bags. Seal, removing as much air as possible, then freeze the bags flat for 2 hours. You can stack 'em after that.

For casseroles, it's hard to generalize since some have pastry or phyllo dough tops. Some recipes specify whether it's okay to go straight from cold to preheated oven, but I'd say thaw when you can, so baking directions remain the same. If you knew you were going straight to the freezer, though, maybe it'd be best to assemble in a disposable aluminum foil pan (hold off on any egg-wash glazes for the tops). Wrap with plastic freezer-worthy wrap, then aluminum foil. Thaw in the refrigerator overnight, minus the wrapping.

Chatters, this is a good place to share your invaluable cassserole-freezing tips...

David Hagedorn: I always line a plastic container with the food storage bag, size depending on how big the batch is, and freeze the soup in it. Then I remove it from the container to store in the freezer. That way, the bag remains upright and fits back into the container I used as a template when I want to microwave the frozen soup/stew, at least enough to melt it to the point where I easily can get it into a pot to finish reheating it.

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Oh my!: That chocolate peanut-butter cake! I want to eat the entire thing right now. One question though -- why can't I use natural or freshly ground peanut butter? Is it just a texture issue, or is it a curdling/separating issue because of the natural oils? If it's the latter, would it work if you just eat it really fast right away (like it'd have a chance to sit around)? I really want to make this, but Jiffy and its ilk give me the heebie jeebies. Thanks!

Mary Lee Montfort: For the Peanut Butter filling, you really must use smooth peanut butter. The all natural products will not have the correct consistency, or sweetness, and they will most likely separate. I personally use Skippy, and the result is outstanding. Try it once, and see what you think!

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Clifton, Va.: Okay, for the past seven years or so since I was rescued by my collie, I have suggested when buying girl scouut cookies that they could double or triple their income if they sold organic, no-corn-or-wheat dog and cat treats. People would buy them for their pets, even if they were on a diet themselves. Come on, there is big money to made by the Girl Scouts!

Bonnie: Think you're pitching to the wrong officials here, Clifton, but we'll post this just in case it's monitored by the GSUSA.

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Taste Test: I did a taste-test of store-bought dim sum from Korean Korner on Randolph Road, off Rockville Pike. I tried the following frozen brands: O'Tasty, Day-Lee-Pride, Kimbo, Wei-Chuang and Safeway Select brand. My favorite brands were Wei-Chuang and Safeway Select (from Safeway groceries). I prefered these two because, when dipped in chili paste and soy sauce, I still could taste the flavors of pork and scallions, whereas the others were completed hidden by the dipping sauce.

Walter: You beat me to the test. I've wanted to try a variety of the frozen ones available. Dim sum freeze well. Most restaurants make their own in big batches and freeze for later. Thanks for the test results.

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Falls Church, Va.: I love cake, and the two recipes today looked yummy. I'm a high-fat girl myself, so I am curious about why one recipe (the spice cake) calls for low-fat cream cheese, while the other (the chocolate peanut butter cake) calls for regular. Could I use regular-fat cream cheese in both if I wanted? I do love what I think is the richer taste of the full-fat version.

Mary Lee Montfort: I always use full fat cream cheese for the richness that I love in my icings. The Post wanted to try to reduce the already high calorie count of that particular cake by using low fat cream cheese. Please feel free to use the real stuff, and enjoy!!

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Alexandria, Va.: How can I duplicate the crispy skin of a Peking Duck, using a whole chicekn? Does brining work? How about blanching the bird prior to roasting?

David Hagedorn: Alas, you cannot duplicate the texture, because duck skin is tougher than chicken and there is much less fat beneath a chicken's skin; the rendering of that fat during roasting is what brings about the crispiness. Brining affects the flesh, not the skin. The process of making Peking duck starts out with hanging the duck to dry it out. The idea is to remove moisture, not add it.

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Washington: The chocolate peanut butter cake looks wonderful, and the pumpkin one sounds great too. I have a small oven and it's hard to get three pans in there at the same time -- one of them ends up on the lip of the rack, so it isn't completely flat. Can I bake two pans and have the third one sitting out, and then bake it when the other two are done? Thanks!

Mary Lee Montfort: It is worth a try. I have larger ovens, so my pans go in at the same time. It isn't ideal, of course, to have one sitting out, but you should experiment with it. Neither of the cakes in today's Post take a long time to bake, which is a plus. Good luck!

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Wheaton, Md.: Just a tip to those who love dim sum -- at Good Fortune in Wheaton, you have to get there by 11 a.m. to get a table and hot, fresh dim sum, and they only serve seafood rolls (seafood spring rolls) on Sundays. They are oh so good.

Walter: I've been told that Good Fortune is wildly popular with senior Chinese because the prices are slightly lower than other dim sum houses.

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Arlington, Va.: My tip for freezing stews or other dishes utilizing a thickener is to use rice flour or another freeze/thaw stable thickener; flour isn't a good choice, and if I remember correctly cornstarch doesn't work well either.

Bonnie: Interesting.

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Chocolate Xmas: Does the "Chocolate Christmas" book only have dessert recipes, or are there chocolate-y savory recipes? I made a cocoa-coffee rubbed pork roast this weekend, the pan juices from which made an outstanding red eye/mole gravy, which I thought would be marvelous to try to reproduce with turkey. Thanks!

Bonnie: All sweets, and boy do they look good.

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Bonnie: Before we get too ensconced, let me pitch for an upcoming Chef on Call. If you're planning a challenging New Year's Eve or New Year's Day celebration with food, send an e-mail to food@washpost.com with CHEF ON CALL / NEW YEAR'S in the subject field.

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Washington: What's the fastest and safest way to defrost meat? Sometimes I'm not a great planner and end up defrosting in the microwave, which I think hurts the quality of the meat. Thanks!

Jane Touzalin: The safest way, of course, is in the fridge overnight (or longer, if that's what it takes). If I can't wait that long, I sometimes resort to defrosting in the sink under cold -- not hot! -- running water. The microwave's defrost setting is probably safe also but, as you say, it tends to precook the outside of the meat and promote dryness. If you're defrosting something like ground meat, you'll want to put it in a waterproof resealable plastic bag first, then place under the water, to avoid waterlogging the food.

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Freezing: I have found that pasta gets overcooked (in soups and casseroles) if I freeze them fully cooked and reheat them later. To prevent this, I barely cook them in casseroles and add extra liquid/sauce before freezing so it can finish cooking when I bake it later. I try to add cooked pasta to soups after thawing and reheating.

Bonnie: That's a good one.

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Dim Sum: Dim sum is like my most favorite food ever. I love going to dim sum restaurants, but my husband -- who is vegetarian -- doesn't get so excited, as there are very few options for him. Do you have a recipe for a veggie dumpling? Also, do you have a video on how to make dim sum? I would love to learn to make these tasty treats for myself.

Walter: Sorry, we don't have any recipes for vegetarian dim sum. We don't have a video. How about a dim sum class: Art of Chinese Cooking

Rebekah Lin Jewell, 703-591-9588

rebekahlinjewell@hotmail.com

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Altoona, Pa.: Hi. We had the best caramels in France, caramels au beurre sale. The flavor is perfect, and they are soft and creamy. How can I make these at home? In particular, at what temperature do I stop cooking so that they turn out creamy -- I don't want to lose any fillings because fo stiff, sticky caramels. Thank you all.

Bonnie: This recipe made readers happy, from Nancy Baggett in 2002:

Cream Caramels

(Makes about 128 candies, or 21/2 pounds plain and 2 3/4 pounds nut caramels)

Old-fashioned, homemade caramels have a succulent, mellow flavor and creamy-chewy texture that make them a memorable gift. These can be tucked inside an attractive reusable tin or glass canister or slipped inside cellophane bags.

It is important to follow the directions carefully and to avoid preparing the candy on rainy days. You'll need a candy thermometer (or other thermometer that registers up to 300 degrees); I find digital models the easiest to read. It's also a good idea to have kitchen mitts or heavy potholders on hand for lifting the cooking pot -- it gets hot.

Nonstick spray oil for the dish

1 1/3 cups sugar

2/3 cup packed light brown sugar

1 1/4 cups light corn syrup

2 cups heavy (whipping) cream

10 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into pieces

1/4 teaspoon salt

11/4 teaspoons vanilla extract

3 tablespoons hot water

1 cup (4 ounces) chopped pecans or walnuts (optional)

Line a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with heavy-duty foil, allowing the foil to extend at least 2 inches beyond the narrow ends of the pan. Generously spray the foil with oil. Place the dish on a wire rack.

In a heavy 6-quart, nonreactive pot or Dutch oven, stir together the granulated and brown sugars, corn syrup and 1 cup cream. Attach a candy thermometer to the side of the pot, making sure the tip is submerged in the mixture but doesn't touch the bottom of the pot. Place the pot over medium-high heat and, stirring constantly with a long-handled wooden spoon, bring to a boil. Using a pastry brush dipped in water or damp paper towels, carefully remove any sugar crystals from the side of the pan. (This prevents the resulting caramel from having a grainy texture.)

Reduce the heat to medium so the mixture boils briskly. Stirring constantly and scraping the bottom of the pan, gradually add the remaining 1 cup cream in a thin, steady stream, adding the cream in a slow enough stream so that the mixture keeps boiling slightly. When the mixture returns to a full boil, add the butter and salt and stir until the butter melts and is completely incorporated.

Continue to boil, gently stirring and scraping the pan bottom, until the mixture turns a light caramel color and thickens somewhat, 8 or 9 minutes. Reduce the heat slightly and continue cooking, scraping the bottom and watching carefully for signs of scorching, until the caramel turns a rich caramel color and reaches 250 to 252 degrees, about 15 minutes longer. Using kitchen mitts or heavy pot holders, immediately remove the pot from the heat. Standing back to avoid splattering and steam, carefully stir in the hot water, vanilla and, if desired, the nuts, and stir until well blended.

Again using mitts or pot holders, immediately pour the caramel into the prepared dish, being careful to pour it slowly so the hot caramel does not splash. Do not scrape the pot. Set the caramel aside to cool completely, about 60 minutes.

To cut the caramels, refrigerate the caramel until slightly firm, 15 to 20 minutes. Grasp the pieces of foil extending beyond the pan and remove the caramel from the dish in 1 piece. Invert the caramel onto a large cutting board and remove and discard the foil. If very even pieces are desired, use a lightly oiled sharp knife to trim and discard any uneven edges of the slab. (These are good for nibbling.) Using the same knife, score the caramel in half lengthwise, then cut each half into fourths. Cut the caramel in half crosswise, then cut each half into sixths.

To wrap the caramel, have ready about 128 pieces of wax paper cut into 4-inch squares. Place a caramel in the center of the paper and twist the ends to keep the paper from unwrapping. (It's best to store caramel in the refrigerator or in a very cool place. However, the caramel should be allowed to warm before serving.)

Per caramel: 42 calories, trace protein, 6 gm carbohydrates, 2 gm fat, 8 mg cholesterol, 1 gm saturated fat, 10 mg sodium, trace dietary
fiber

David Hagedorn: Then add a sprinkle of very good sea salt, like fleur de sel on each caramel just before they are set. or better yet, order salted caramels from www.recchuiti.com (San Francisco) and then send me a lengthy email to thank me profusely for turning you on to these.

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Newport News, Va.: Ooh, another question, inspired by the fact that it's finally cooling off: I have a big group of family/friends who get together around the New Year, and I try to make some homemade goodies as small presents. In the past I have done triple-ginger cookies, chocolate chewy cookies (because everyone loves chocolate!) and even little takeout-style boxes of mixed candies.

I'm hoping for something I can start in advance this year, but a lot of the classic ideas seem to be for roll-out style sugar cookies. Ehh, never a favorite of mine. Can you suggest something new and attention-getting, but still classic enough that most people will like it? Especially something I could start now and freeze or otherwise store until then. I'm getting a new oven this week (yay!) and I think I'll want to experiment with it this weekend! Thanks.

Mary Lee Montfort: I love the idea of your goodie give-aways. I would add something that has nuts in it to balance out the chocolate and ginger offerings. I'm thinking a classic nut cresent cookie, like a Mexican or Greek wedding cookie. These typically get a dusting of powdered sugar, and will freeze beautifully. The other classic that I love this time of year is the "Tea-time Tassie" which is like a tiny pecan pie. They are a little labor intensive, but they also freeze well and are delicious.

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Arlington, Va.: My heart jumped when I saw the article on burrata this morning. I lived in Milan 10 years ago and bought burrata every time I went to the grocery store, and have dreamed about it ever since. By the way, the fresh cheese case in the (standard) grocery store there ran the length of the store; about the same size as all of Safeway's meat cases put together. You could buy many different types of mozzerellas, all of which were delicious. Which leads me to my question: Is there anywhere around here that sells good mozzerella, aside from the burrata vendors mentioned in the article (they seem to have unreliable supplies)? Every type I have tried is either rubbery, tasteless, or both. I've given up, aside from the occasional marinated mozz balls from Whole Foods. I may have to look into making my own.

washingtonpost.com: The Big Cheese (Post, Oct. 24)

Bonnie: We've found good mozzarella at Vace in Cleveland Park, at the Italian Store in Arlington and at Il Scalino and Trinacria in Baltimore.

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Annandale, Va. -- Cake: Can the chocolate peanut butter cake pass as a birthday cake? My fiance's birthday is next week and I would love to make him something from scratch.

Mary Lee Montfort: Absolutely! This cake is very special and so different from the "usual" birthday cake. I think that your fiance will love it. Please be sure to let the cake stand at room temp. for 2 hours before serving for the best flavor and texture.

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Freezing stew with veggies?: Got any great tips on freezing a stew that includes veggies? When I've tried it in the past, the spuds and carrots are at best mealy and have lost their flavor. I'd love to be able to make up a large pot of stew and freeze it in appropriate portions for later use.

David Hagedorn: I do this all the time. The trick is to cook the potatoes, celery, carrots, etc. separately until they are just cooked through, then add them to the stew before freezing. They will take on the flavorful juices of the stew during reheating and retain a good texture.

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How-to dim sum: I really was disappointed in your dim sum article, because it seems like a replica of Tom Sietsema's work in The Post and Washingtonian. I would have thought the Rangers would hand us the tools to make our own dim sum. Of course anyone can go to a restaurant if they wanted dim sum. I thought this discussion was about cooking at home and braving out the foods we normally would be intimidated to try to prepare for ourselves. I feel my support group has let me down.

Bonnie: Oy, hard to please all chatters all the time. The beauty of going to a dim sum restaurant is the opportunity to sample 50 to 70 varieties, smell the aromas of passing carts, see what your table neighbors are having...would you be making so many at home? Given the time constraints of the average home cook, it seems Walter's very thorough and beautiful guide was the way to go.

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Pine Plains, N.Y.: I'd like to try substituting whole wheat flour (red, white or pastry) for all or some of the flour in cakes. Will this work? Are there types of cakes this will work better in than others? Also, was there a best-seller at the bake sale?

Leigh: Whole wheat flour can not be substituted for all of your flour in a cake recipe. The gluten ratio is different and it is a "heavier" flour. You can experiment by subbing about 1/3 of what the recipe calls for, but much more than that and you're gambling. Also, you may want to try King Arthur's white whole wheat flour for a more familiar taste and appearance.

Bonnie: It has been reported that Mary Lee's cakes, made by the girls, flew off the tables (at $25 each!). Decorated cookies sold at high volume.

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Washington: This morning's mention of Girl Scouts baking actually made me miss the classic thin mints -- do you know where I can find a good recipe for them, and how do they manage to completely cover the cookies in chocolate? I have dipping problems -- everything seems to get a thumbprint in it when I do it.

Jane Touzalin: Covering the cookies in chocolate: How do THEY do it? I would bet they have a fancy enrobing machine that does the job, hundreds of cookies at a time. How can YOU do it? Buy yourself a dipping fork and practice. Make sure your dipping chocolate is the right temperature so it's not too stiff, not too fluid. (If you don't want to buy a dipping fork, try a regular fork with the flattest possible tines; you use it to lower the cookie into the chocolate and carefully lift it out, letting the excess drip back into the bowl, then transfer to wax paper.) As to recipes, sorry, I don't have one, but I'm betting that in the great Internet resource out there you can find one somewhere.

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Upstate, NY: Those bake sale items sure looked yummy! But then I read the recipes, and then the calorie counts. Yowzaa! Over 500 calories per cupcake? A pie with 2 sticks of butter in the crust? A cake with 3/4 cup of oil plus 1/2 cup butter in the cake alone, then nearly a cup of butter and 2 1/2 cups of cream cheese in the icing? It's over 500 calories a slice, but that's only if you manage to cut the cake into 20 thin slivers. Are you trying to kill these Girl Scout's bake sale customers? They're not going to realize how much fat went into those baked goods, and might eat more than just one small serving. I think coming up with tasty yet (at least somewhat) healthy recipes might have been a better way to go.

David Hagedorn: Thanks, Upstate. The scouts also sold power bars they made using a recipe Raeanne gave them.

The girls, all interested in cooking, wanted to learn a variety of techniques. Basic baked goods are still made with butter, sugar, eggs, and flour and everyone understands they are treats and have a lot of calories.

The scouts were not trying to kill their customers; they were trying to raise money for a good cause and relied on the law of supply and demand for success. They supplied sweets, there was demand for them, and they were sold. I do not think that anyone who bought a cake was unaware that there were a lot of calories in it. Buyers made informed decisions.

By the way, a cup of shortening per 2 cup of flour is a pretty standard ratio for pie crusts.

Bonnie: FYI, that Pumpkin Spice Cake batter should have called for 1/4 cup of butter. The recipe has been corrected in the Recipe Finder database, and a correction will run in print tomorrow.

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Silver Spring, Md.: Freezing cheese: FYI, I've always had good luck shredding provolone and mozzarella (the supermarket kind, not fresh buffalo), mixing the two together, and freezing in quart-sized ziploc bags for instant homemade pizza topping. You also can freeze grated parmesan (again, not the $20/pound Parma-Reggiano) in quart-sized plastic bags.

Bonnie: Shredding, yes, that's a good technique that I left out of the lineup. Thanks!

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Arlington, Va.: With the holiday season quickly approaching, I have a question about baking. How far in advance can one prepare an unbaked, fully-assembled pie or tart in the fridge before baking? Some recipes actually recommend chilling a pie or tart for about 20 to 30 minutes, but could I do this with good success for four to six hours? I love warm pies, so I always like to bake a pie relatively close to serving time.

David Hagedorn: I would not not let a fruit pie sit for very long before baking it. It's fine to refrigrate one for 15-20 minutes before baking, provided you seal the bottom crust first. It would be better to freeze a fruit pie than to refrigerate it for a long period of time. Cold pie/hot oven is the rule for fruit pies.

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Washington: We're hosting a champagne tasting party (we have many different kinds because my family is from the Champagne region of France). Can you recommend any appetizer-type foods that would be good with champagne? I was leaning toward sweets, but I'm not sure what, exactly. Thanks.

Bonnie: Champagnes can have such different flavors. Some folks think unadorned popcorn is the best way to go. Perhaps something with lobster, or pears?

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Charlotte, N.C.: I'm hoping that you will be able to help me out. I'm trying desperately to find a good recipe for chocolate-covered cherries, the kind with a liquidy center? I don't want to use parafin if possible, so that has been a problem. Can I just substitute butter or something? I'm going to be making my Christmas gifts this year and these are my dad's favorite candies. I don't mind something that is time-consuming or a medium level of complexity if that makes a difference. But please help, I'm only finding recipes for dried cherries, or ones that have the non-liquid center. Thanks!

Jane Touzalin: For those candies you use drained maraschino cherries that have been allowed to dry overnight. They are enclosed in a ball of fondant (butter, powdered sugar and a variety of other ingredients) and then enrobed by using a chocolate mold just as you'd do for other types of formed chocolates. Do an Internet search for "chocolate-covered cherries" and "recipe" and I promise you'll find several recipes for them.

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Washington: Where can I find a recipe for the "Tea Time Tassies"?

Mary Lee Montfort: Try Epicurious first. Then check more traditional cookbooks (this is a classic Southern cookie). There's a good basic recipe in Good Housekeeping's Great Baking cook book. Hope that helps!

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Bonnie: Today's chat winners are Wheaton, who gets the nod for advice on when to line up at Good Fortune, and Altoona, for the query on caramels and for making us stop and think about French caramels...remember to send your contact info to food@washpos
t
.com. Next week, check out our Redskins versus Ravens tailgate smackdown! (more of a show and tell, actually, but Editor Joe likes to get that concept in at least once a month). Thanks for joining us. Go eat something!

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