What's Cooking With Kim O'Donnel

Calling all foodies! Join us Tuesdays at noon for What's Cooking, our live online culinary hour with Kim O'Donnel.

A graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education (formerly known as Peter Kump's New York Cooking School), Kim spends much of her time in front of the stove or with her nose in a cookbook..

For daily dispatches from Kim's kitchen, check out her blog, A Mighty Appetite. You may catch up on previous transcripts with the What's Cooking archive page.

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Kim O'Donnel: Greetings! We may actually get some rain today in the nation's capital; it's as dry as bread crumbs here. If you're a tea drinker or a wannabe, check out the interview I did with tea geek Mary Lou Heiss who, with her husband, Robert, has just written "The Story of Tea" These people know their stuff, y'all. This week is a double hitter; Thursday at 1 ET I'll take your meatless questions and comments. And get out those calendars, DC readers; next Thursday, Nov. 1, I'll be signing copies of my book, A Mighty Appetite for the Holidays, at the National Press Club's 30th Annual Book Fair. Doors open to the public at 6 p.m. and tickets are $5, in support of the Press Club's library. If you're an early riser, come and have coffee with me at Arlington Courthouse farm market, starting at 9 a.m. And now let's hear what's happening...

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Washington, D.C.: I have some dried pintos soaking at home for dinner tonight. I was going to just do refried beans, but I'm feeling a little more adventurous now. Any inspiration? They'll be served as a side with sort of a mexican-inspired chicken dish.

Kim O'Donnel: Onion, garlic, chile, oregano, cumin, coriander, a little cinammon, cayenne. Get all that going before you add the beans. Liquid can be water, stock, beer...and I'd add some tomatoes to this mix. Bring up to a boil, cover and simmer until done. A pot of rice, and you've got a beautiful trio of dishes on your plate.

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Silver Spring, Md.: I'm modifying a recipe I saw in a recent Bon Appetit (I think the October one) for dinner tonight. It's a pasta with, in the original, toasted walnuts, broccoli rabe, leeks, and creme fraiche. I'm definitely substituting arugula for the rabe (could I supplement with tatsoi if not enough arugula?). I'm thinking goat cheese would be a nice alternative to the creme fraiche. Do you think I should stick to the creme fraiche instead? (I don't use creme fraiche ever, really, so I was thinking I might get more use out of the leftover goat cheese.) Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Goat cheese has a melt-able quality, so yes, it will work, and I might add a wee bit of hot pasta liquid to smooth things out. You've already got a improv sensibility; keep an open mind and you'll be rewarded at table, I promise. A little lemon zest would be good here, too.

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Fall Please, D.C.: Kim: I made your pumpkin muffins from last fall. They were delicious! They seem very very moist and the rose a lot. So much in fact that I wanted to play with the recipe to make them a bit denser. I was thinking of switching the yogurt to milk? Would that help? Also, I added a tiny bit of banana and some dried cranberry and they were delicious. I want to upgrade to fresh cranberries and perhaps play with the pumpkin, too (cinnamon-roasted butternut squash??). Thanks for the fall inspiration. Any other fall things which are inspiring you right now?

Kim O'Donnel: In the midst of writing all about pumpkins today, I forgot all about those fab pumpkin muffins. If you use buttermilk, you'll have a denser quality. Milk will actually make it lighter. Instead of pepitas, you could do heart-healthy walnuts...

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D.C. Cubefarm: I made your Velveeta-free Queso this weekend! It sounded so good I decided I just couldn't wait for friends to come over and eat it for us. It didn't turn out as thick as I expected so I added made more roux and added it. I think that was a mistake, because it was a solid mass when it cooled. Next time I'll get it right. We ended up adding more seasoning and chiles, because we just like things hot. It also went VERY well with Uncle Brutha's #10 hot sauce -- a swirl of sauce on top of the queso was the perfect addition. We snuggled up together with the bowl, vying for dips with our chips. Tart apple slices also make great dippers for this. I think I never did get around to making dinner that night. Thanks for the recipe!

Kim O'Donnel: Reader is referring to last week's blog space dedicated to cheese dips without the Orange stuff. Cubefarm, a little patience at the stove will go a long way in this sauce, so next time, take a deep breath, allow mixture to thicken because it will.

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Desperate non-housewife: Hope you can give me an assist -- Am headed up to the beach for a much belated getaway with my sweetie. We leave Friday after work and aren't counting on arriving in time to make it to an eatery. Do you have any suggestions for something I could make ahead that is portable, will survive a 3-hour car trip, and is not bread cheese, fruit and red wine (my standby)? If it helps, we'll have access to a microwave if we need to reheat.

Kim O'Donnel: If you've got a cooler, you've got more leeway, allowing you to transport stuff like smoked fish, a bag of salad greens, small container of your favorite vinaigrette, a container of hummus. Make your own batch of spiced nuts, which are fun to have in the car to boot...and I'd make dessert -- your fave cookies or brownies, something that will feel like a sweet treat throughout the weekend. Have fun!

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Claverack, N.Y.: I have a question about carrot tops -- not the comedian, but the vegetable.

I had overheard a woman at one of our local farms talking about how she always put the green leafy part of the carrot into her chicken stock. But my mother-in-law swears it will make the soup bitter. I tried tasting some before perhaps ruining a whole pot of soup. To me, the leaves don't taste like much of anything, though the stems have a little bite.

So what do you think? In? Out? Or it just doesn't add enough flavor to make a difference?

Kim O'Donnel: Leafy greens are good for stock, as they draw out the impurities and help to make a clearer stock. I just had some of the sweetest local carrots which leads me to believe those tops would have been sweet as well. Hard to say -- if they're freshly harvested carrots, I might bet on it.

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Gaithersburg, Md.: A couple of dear and generous friends gave me two big bags of lovely, fresh, homegrown carrots. I love to munch on fresh carrots but this many carrots is too many for simply snacking on or putting in the occasional soup. Do you have any suggestions for a main dish, either vegetarian or carnivore, that emphasizes carrots? Help, please!

Kim O'Donnel: More on yummy carrots! I just a one from my local stash last night in a batch of fried rice. Carrot-ginger soup is simply wonderful and warming at this time of year. You can shred them and add to sandwiches, roast them with other roots, add them to beef stew...what else, folks?

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Alexandria, Va.: Kim, I enjoyed your pumpkin blog post but had a question about your roasted pumpkin. What did you do with the skin? Last time I roasted a pumpkin I left the skin on, but then found I didn't really enjoy eating it. I couldn't get it off easily once it was cooked and wondered if I was supposed to remove the skin prior to roasting. Any advice?

washingtonpost.com: The Great Pumpkin Menu ( A Mighty Appetite, Oct. 23

Kim O'Donnel: I scooped out flesh and left skin behind. I don't really care for skin either, so I do without. If you cut pumpkin into smaller chunks and lather skin up with some oil, skin should peel away fairly easily.

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Odenton, Md.: I'll be out of town during the chat...Can pomegranate seeds be used in place of things such as blueberries in muffins? I bought my first one over the weekend and other then putting the seeds on my cereal (which was good) or eating them out of a bowl, I was wondering what to bake them in (easily). Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: I think you'd be better off with either dried cherries, cranberries or blueberries, as the pom seeds might be too crunchy and distracting when you take a bite. I've used pom seeds as a garnish and they work well when in clear vision and people know what to expect.

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Annandale, Va: Too early?: Too early for Turkey talk?

I tried asking this question last week...

Here it goes again. My family is not too turkey friendly, yet after reading last year chats I thought that having a fresh turkey this year may turn things around. In the past we have only tried frozen turkey, so how much better is a fresh turkey?

Kim O'Donnel: It's not too early to start turkey talk; in fact, mark your calendars, as I've just lined up my Thanksgiving specials: Thurs Nov 8 is the Veggie Thanksgiving Special and Thurs Nov 15 is the regular omnivore Tgiving party. Both are at 1pm ET. Now, back to you Annandale: In my opinion, a fresh turkey is much better, not just because it tastes better, but because it hasn't been in the deep freeze in some warehouse for months. Do you have a farm market you like to frequent? It helps to talk to the farmers who raise them, to get a perspective on how they're fed and raised. I have been making a fresh turkey for nearly 10 years, and I think it's worth the money, money that goes back to the local economy.

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Alexandria, Va.: Hi Kim,

On the pumpkin theme. Do you have a recipe for pumpkin risotto? Preferably made with canned pumpkin, as I'm not sure I have the time/patience/ax needed for the fresh stuff.

Kim O'Donnel: I hope I didn't scare you in my blog today about wielding an axe -- but a sharp knife is definitely in order when cutting a pumpkin. I would highly recommend roasting one and pureeing it so you can taste the difference from the canned stuff. And believe me, I used the canned stuff in a pinch, partic. if it's unsweetened, but there really is a diff. in taste, like homemade gravy versus canned, etc.

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Phoenix, Ariz.: For the poster looking for uses for pomegranate seeds: One of my favorite restaurants here in Phoenix puts pomegranate seeds in their guacamole. The contrast of hot and sweet, along with the contrast of smooth and crunchy, is truly heavenly.

Kim O'Donnel: Nice. Thanks for chiming in, Phoenix!

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Carrot Salad: There is a Russian restaurant in Chicago that makes a fabulous carrot salad. Basically, mix grated carrots with some olive oil, vinegar, garlic, sugar, coriander, and salt and pepper. Let it marinate for a few hours and it's good to go.

Kim O'Donnel: Sounds like a plan, my friend.

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Washington, D.C.: I consider myself a rather good cook, confident in the kitchen, fairly adventurous -- but I cannot cook rice to save my life. It's always too mushy or too crunchy. Can you give me a primer? Or a recommendation for what type of rice is easiest/most forgiving?

Kim O'Donnel: Here's what I do. Now, as soon as I publish my way, I guarantee a flood of comments with many other ways. But this way works for me. I just say that because everytime I mention how I cook rice I get raked on the coals. Okay, so I rinse my rice in a few changes of water until water is clear. For 1 cup of basmati or jasmine rice, I add 1 1/3 cups water. I bring both up to a boil, then I turn down heat, cover and simmer. After 8 minutes, I check on things. If water is still bubbling, I return cover and keep cooking, but probably only 1 or 2 more minutes. And that's how I get good rice every time.

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Madison, Wisc.: A follow-up on the turkey question: we actually have ordered a turkey from a local Amish farm, all organic and pastured and all that good stuff. However, for whatever reason, they need to deliver them on November 8th and it will be frozen (but freshly slaughtered). In that case, is the fact that it's been frozen going to make any difference in taste, texture, etc.? It's about as fresh and local as I can get, but it's still going to be frozen for a couple of weeks.

Kim O'Donnel: Even if you picked up your turkey from a local farm as late as the Sunday before Thanksgiving, the turkey will be frozen. Just remember, for every five pounds, allow 24 hours of thaw time in the fridge. Don't worry; your turkey will be wonderful.

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Butternut Squash Skin: Related to the pumpkin skin question. Can I leave butternut squash skin on? Or is there any easy way to peel it? I often resort to a sharp knife, because my peeler can't seem to get around the curves.

Kim O'Donnel: You can leave the skin on, partic. if you're roasting. If boiling, to prepare for soup, you'll have to break it down with the big knife. Smaller chunks may ease the job of peeling with a peeler.

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Spaghettisquashington: Kim, where does spaghetti squash fall on the squash continuum? I've been trying to eat more locally, but I don't believe that I have EVER seen a local spaghetti squash. What time of year should I be keeping my eyes peeled?

Kim O'Donnel: That's an excellent question. I'm thinking about the squash before me at the market on Sunday, and no there was nary a spaghetti squash in sight. I'd be curious to hear what other readers here and further afield, know when it comes to this variety.

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RE; rice: In the same boat wITH the rice-inept, otherwise-good cook -- so I broke down and bought a rice cooker. One of my best purchases ever, and I'm so not a gadget person...

Kim O'Donnel: And here's another very reliable option. I have friends who love their rice cooker. Good call.

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Washington, D.C.: Kim - I've got tons of apples. TONS OF APPLES. I've made applesauce and apple butter. Now I'm dreaming of something breakfast-y, maybe apple-cinnamon-bran muffins that I could make and freeze. Any tried and true recipes? Or other ideas for using up apples?

Kim O'Donnel: Apple cake, baby. Here's one made with almond meal and here's another, coffee-cake style...apple pie, apple crisp, shredded apples with brussels sprouts, apple fritters, apple pancakes...

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Rice: And don't stir it while it's cooking.

Kim O'Donnel: Yes! How true.

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Oh, please help me!! : I have 20 pounds of apples and I am apparently genetically unable to produce a usable pie crust. I did everything right, flour, 1/2 cold butter, 1/2 cold shortening. Pulsed in my beautiful cuisinart. 2-3 tbs ice cold water. Chilled in fridge for 2 hours. Couldn't work with the stuff!! If it didn't stick to the well-floured counter, it crumbled when I tried to peel it. Flour, silpat, cold granite. Re-chilled the dough...Agh!!

Kim O'Donnel: Okay, get a hold of yourself. First of all, everything must be super cold -- the bowl, the butter, the water. I use about 5 tablespoons water, plus 1 tablespoon of cider vinegar, which really helps. The dough knows when you're stressed, darlin' so have yourself a Zen moment before you embark on a new batch. Let me see if I can dig up the recipe -- which comes from Rose Levy Beranbaum.

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Spaghettisquasheattle: Lots of local spaghetti squash show up at the farmer's markets here in the Northwest, perhaps it needs a cooler climate? On that vein, any great for suggestions for cooking them? I've tried it with tomato sauce and wasn't crazy about it.

Kim O'Donnel: Well, I'm not crazy about it either. I think there are so many other varieties that just taste better, also not a fan of the strings, but that's me. I'm told a lot of garlic, herbs, parm and olive oil is a good trick.

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Turkey sausage: I just bought some turkey smoked sausage at the store for lunch. What veggie can I cook with it since it has so much salt and flavor that shouldn't go to waste? I used to do frozen brussel sprouts for a quick, healthy lunch.

Kim O'Donnel: quick-cooking greens such as spinach or chard would work really well here, you may need a little extra oil, but that's about it.

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Rockville, Md., : A tofu question. You've probably covered this before but how can you get tofu to crisp up without deep-frying. I seem to recall something about cornstarch helping. Thanks! Love the chats!

Kim O'Donnel: Cornstarch really does help, Rockville. It helps to create a litlte bit of a crust. But draining the tofu before marinating is also key.

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Concord Grapes: We got some Concord grapes from our CSA. They're beautiful, but they are too sweet and tart for snacking. Jam is not appealing to me. Any easy dishes we can use them in? Maybe even something savory?

Kim O'Donnel: You know what would be fun? To make foccacia and stud it with the grapes. Man, would that be delicious. Let see if I can dig up a recipe for you today.

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New York: Hey Kim --

Do you have any experience with reheating a roux? In a few weeks we're having a tailgate and I want to make my smoked turkey gumbo. In order to make the proper roux it's pretty time consuming(45-ish minutes). Clearly I'll be cooking outside and need to prep as much as possible and work smartly. Do you think I'll achieve success making the roux before hand and reheat? Should I make the entire gumbo beforehand and reheat on site? Or just go all out and make the whole think on campus? I'll be making the gumbo in a HUGE la creset pot and the heat source will be my turkey frier stand and propane tank, if that helps.

Thanks

Kim O'Donnel: Hey New York -- I'd make the entire gumbo and reheat on site. Even if it takes a while to get things going, it's still a better option than trying to wingdang it from roux stage. Too much trouble, and besides, this is all about fun.

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Washington, D.C.: Help! I have most (about 1 cup) of a jar of tahini leftover -- and I don't want to make hummus. What would you suggest I do with it? Thanks!

Kim O'Donnel: Roast a few sweet potatoes, then puree with at least 2 teaspoons of tahini, and some roasted onions. Heavenly dip.

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Kim O'Donnel: Time to go. Thanks for stopping by. I'll be back Thursday at 1pm ET for vegetarian hour and in meantime in the blog space: A Mighty Appetite. All best.

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