A chat with the Food section staff is a chance for you to ask questions, offer suggestions and share information with other cooks and food lovers. It is a forum for discussion of food trends, ingredients, menus, gadgets and anything else food-related.

Each chat, we will focus on topics from the day's Food section. You can also read the transcripts of past chats. Do you have a question about a particular recipe or a food-related anecdote to share? The Food section staff goes Free Range on Food every Wednesday at 1 p.m. ET. Read about the staff of the Food section.

The transcript follows.

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Joe: Konnichiwa, chatters! I'm back from 2 weeks in Japan, adjusting to a world without miso soup for breakfast, and ready to cook. (14 days of restaurant and hotel meals is fun but unsettling...)

Welcome to today's Free Range, where we hope you have all sorts of questions about Dan Steinberg's Tailgate Smackdown story, the fab recipes Bonnie dug up at Skins and Ravens games, and more. We're hoping Dan S. drops by a little later in the chat if he makes it back from assignment in time.

For the authors of our favorite posts, we have giveaway books: "Nigella Express" by the lovely Ms. Lawson (source of today's Dinner in Minutes recipe) and "New American Bistro Cooking and "New American Bistro Cooking" by Laurent Tourondel, which includes a recipe for the Passion Fruit Crepes Souffle available at BLT Steak that Bonnie wrote about in Worth the Trip.

Fire your q's our way!

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Chantilly, Va.: I'm stumped on the type of bread croutons to use for my Thanksgiving stuffing this year. In the past I have used Pepperidge Farm's and Williams-Sonoma's seasoned bread croutons. However, I recently read a review of store-bought bread croutons and almost none of them faired well. I've decided to make my own croutons this year, however I'm not sure what type of bread makes the "best" croutons for stuffing -- sour dough, French, Italian, basic white sandwich bread, etc. Any suggestions?

Bonnie: My best results start with bread that is somewhat firm. Currently I'm a fan of croutons made with ciabatta bread, but Pepperidge Farm Toasting White has worked in the past (where'd you read that review, Cook's Illustrated?). Don't overlook flavored breads, such as olive or rye --- in a few weeks we'll be running a fennel and mushroom stuffing that uses rye and that bread really boosted the stuffing's flavor.

Chatters, let's hear your thoughts on the matter...

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Alexandria, Va.: Hi Tom:

I love to go throught the Best Restaurant issue and highlight places I have been and make a list of restaurants to hit. I saw a write up about a Sushi Res. transplant from Maryland to Alexandria and can't seem to remember the name. Does this ring a bell? Also I think you should do a Sushi special issue. Thanks

Joe: Did you sleep through Tom's chat?

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Washington, D.C.: do you know of anywhere in the DC area (preferably in DC) to buy Portuguese salt cod?

Walter: You won't need to go too far past the District line. A & H Seafood Market (4960 Bethesda Ave., Bethesda; 301-986-9692) has the salt cod you're looking for ($8.95 per pound) as well as Portuguese breads, cheeses and chorizo.

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D.C. - Go Ravens (Tailgating)!: I am so glad that you finally did a tailgating story! My husband, brother-in-law, sister-in-law and me are huge Ravens fans and tailgate at every home game. The week before a game I craft my menu - usually a theme having to do with the city or the team itself (for example last year for Buffalo, in addition to other items, we had mini Buffalo burgers and Buffalo chicken dip). We spend Friday night at the grocery store buying supplies, ALL day Saturday is spent cooking, and Sunday we wake up bright and early to head out to the parking lot (within 30 minutes of it opening). Although we are on a much smaller scale than what you highlighted in your story, usually only 4-6 people, I think we do a great job and put a lot of time and energy into making delicious creative food! We have a blog too, I write all about the food, what was good, what needs work, as well as provide recipes and my husband goes into great details critiquing the game. Don't forget about the small-scale tailgaters, we do it up right too!

Bonnie: We were amazed at tailgating spreads large and small. The effort, the energy, the good food. We sampled till we hurt, and met some very committed fans like you. The themed eating was entertaining -- Detroit threw some folks for a loop, but then we found a group that went Motown and delivered soul food.

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Arlington, Va.: After several forays to Moroccan restaurants, I have decided to try cooking a tagine of chicken with lemon and olives this weekend. The recipe I plan to use calls for "preserved lemons," which I gather would take about three weeks to pickle if I did it myself. Do you know of any ethnic markets in the area that carry preserved lemons. I have had no luck looking in the international foods sections of the nearby supermarkets. Thanks. I always enjoy these chats and have gotten a lot of useful tips.

Walter: For me, it's not a chicken tagine without a double portion of preserved lemon. Most Middle Eastern markets stock them. At Mediterranean Bakery (352 S. Pickett St., Alexandria; 703-751-1702) they sell for $3.49 for 33 ounces.

Bonnie: Or you could make them in as little as five days, if you're game. Try this recipe we ran a few years back, from Terri Pischoff Wuerthner.

Quick Preserved Lemons

Makes 3 preserved lemons

This recipe is done in five days. Compared with the traditional approach to preserved lemons, it cuts out three weeks of waiting by simmering whole lemons in a salt-water solution to hurry along the curing process.

3 large lemons

6 cups water

1/3 cup kosher or sea salt

Rinse lemons under cool running water and remove any surface wax by scrubbing with an abrasive sponge. Using a sharp knife, make 8 vertical but shallow incisions along the length of the lemon, taking care not to cut into flesh. Set aside.

In a large, nonreactive saucepan, bring the water and salt to a boil. Add the lemons and boil until the rind is very soft, about 8 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside to let the lemons cool in the cooking liquid.

Using a slotted spoon or tongs, transfer the cooled lemons but not the cooking liquid to a clean, dry, 16-ounce glass jar, pressing on the lemons to release any juice and ensure a snug fit. (It may be necessary to cut 1 of the lemons into halves or quarters to ensure that they are tightly packed.) Add enough of the cooking liquid to cover the lemons; it is important that they be completely immersed. (Cover and refrigerate any remaining cooking liquid; you may need additional liquid to keep the lemons covered as they cure.) Leave a bit of air before closing jar to allow for expansion of lemons as they absorb the salt and liquid.

Close the lid and set aside for 5 days at room temperature, gently turning the jar upside down and then right side up again to redistribute the salt. If at any time the lemons are not completely immersed, add enough reserved liquid to cover them immediately, as spoilage can occur within a day.

After 5 days, the lemons are ready. May use or refrigerate for up to 6 months.

To use: Cut off a small piece of lemon zest off and taste for saltiness. Rinse if necessary. Finely chop or cut the rind into slivers, depending on the intended use.

VARIATION: If desired, the following spices may be tucked in between the lemons as they are packed into the jar: 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns, 1 teaspoon whole cloves, 2 dried bay leaves and 2 cinnamon stic
ks.

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Baltimore, Md.: I'm in a bit of a sticky situation: I volunteered to cook for some friends who are expecting their second child in the next week or so. I made up a list of meals that their family, and mine, would like and also asked for requests...and pesto showed up as a top request. Assuming I can find basil after the recent cold snap, can I make pesto ahead of time and freeze it, or does it have to be made the same day it's served? (I'm trying to get as much cooking done ahead of time as I can.) Thanks!

Jane Touzalin: Pesto freezes great, either in a resealable plastic bag with all air squeezed out or in a hard plastic container with a film of olive oil on top. I always have a few packs of the homemade stuff on hand in my freezer for impromptu use. However, many recipes advise not including the grated cheese in any pesto you're going to freeze. When I mix mine for the freezer, I always omit the cheese; then I add cheese to the thawed stuff. Works great, and the fresh cheese adds a nice, sharp, fresh taste.

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Ann Arbor, Mich.: Yesterday I baked some squash. I put the two halves in a glass baking dish with about an inch of water. The oven was set to 350. After an hour, I opened the oven to add more water to the dish. The water level was down to about a quarter-inch, but noticing that the squash looked done, I pulled it out of the oven instead. The glass dish exploded in my hand! (I didn't get hurt, but the clean up was pretty painful.) What happened?

Joe: Pyrex can indeed shatter, when it undergoes dramatic temperature changes and the glass experiences "thermal shock." That's why, among other warnings, the company says not to use it on stovetop, under the broiler, in a toaster oven, over the oven vent or pilot light -- or to add liquid to a hot dish, put it in the sink, immerse it in water or place it on cold or wet surfac
es.

It doesn't sound like you did any of these things, but Pyrex also says this: "Add a small amount of liquid to the ovenware vessel prior to baking foods that release liquids while cooking." Cook's Illustrated mentions this, too, a few years ago amending an acorn squash recipe to call for the addition of water so that "the searingly hot liquid from the cooking squash" wouldn't shatter the dish. So maybe that's what happened
...

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Chantilly, Va.: I want to make "Prime Rib" for this Thanksgiving. Do you have a good recipe? How do I ask for this cut from a butcher? I need it to yield about 5 lbs of meat after cooking. Also any tips on how to cook it?

Thanks!

Jane Touzalin: Chantilly, you're in luck. Not only do we have a recipe for the roast (we published it in 2001) but it's accompanied by a horseradish sauce recipe that sounds perfect.

Whenever I buy a cut of meat I've never dealt with before, I make sure I go to a good butcher, either at a butcher shop or at one of the higher-end grocery stores. You'll probably pay more for the meat, but you'll get dependable advice and a great-quality cut. And for a holiday meal, you want your meat to be perfect, right?

Standing Rib Roast With Pan Jus and Horseradish-Peppercorn Cream

(8 servings)

Standing rib roast, or prime rib, has long been considered the ultimate beef roast. In most rib roasts, the chine bone (backbone) has been removed, so you can carve through the roast at each rib. (Generally, each rib yields two servings, one with the bone and one without.)

As with any large roast, it is important to check the meat regularly and in several places with an instant-read meat thermometer to be sure it is cooked to the degree of doneness that you prefer.

Those who want their roast less rare and more well done should be served slices carved close to either end.

For the horseradish-peppercorn cream:

2 tablespoons green peppercorns, preferably in brine

1 cup sour cream

2 tablespoons prepared horseradish

For the roast and jus:

1 bone-in standing rib roast (3 ribs, 7 to 9 pounds), chine bone removed (see recipe introduction)

3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon dry English mustard

2 tablespoons freshly cracked black pepper

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh thyme

1 tablespoon kosher or coarse sea salt

2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces

2 stalks celery, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces

1 onion, peeled and quartered

4 cloves garlic, peeled

1 3/4 cups beef stock or broth

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the horseradish-peppercorn cream: If using peppercorns in brine, drain them, reserving the liquid.

Using a mortar and pestle or a rolling pin, crush the peppercorns. In a bowl, whisk the crushed peppercorns together with the sour cream and horseradish. If using peppercorns in brine, if desired, add a bit of the brine to the cream mixture. Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or as long as 3 days.

For the roast and jus: Pat the roast dry. Rub 2 tablespoons of the Worcestershire sauce over the entire surface of the roast and set aside for a few minutes for it to penetrate the meat. Then sprinkle the mustard evenly over the roast, rub it in and set aside for an additional few minutes.

In a small bowl, combine the black pepper and thyme. Sprinkle the mixture evenly over the roast, pressing it gently so it adheres. Cover tightly with plastic wrap, transfer to a rimmed plate and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or as long as 24 hours.

Remove the roast from the refrigerator 1 hour before roasting. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

Transfer the roast, fat-side up, to a shallow roasting pan and season with salt. Transfer the pan to the oven and immediately reduce the heat to 350 degrees. Cook 23 to 30 minutes per pound for medium rare or 27 to 38 minutes per pound for medium, occasionally checking the internal temperature of the roast in several places with an instant-read thermometer (The U.S. Department of Agriculture recommends 145 for medium rare and 160 for medium. But remember that the internal temperature will continue to rise slightly even after the roast is removed from the oven.)

After the first hour of roasting, scatter the carrots, celery, onion and garlic in the pan around the roast.

When the internal temperature of the roast reaches 5 to 10 degrees below the desired final temperature, remove the roast from the oven, transfer to a cutting board and set aside for 20 to 30 minutes before carving.

Meanwhile, skim and discard any fat from the pan, leaving behind only the drippings. Place the roasting pan on the stovetop over medium heat. Add the stock or broth and remaining 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce to the pan, and cook, using a whisk or wooden spoon to scrape the bottom of the pan. Remove from the heat and strain the pan juices into a small saucepan. Return the juices to medium heat and simmer gently for about 20 minutes or until the roast is ready to carve. Season the sauce with salt and pepper to taste. When serving, pass the pan jus and the horseradish-peppercorn cream on the side.

Per serving: 429 calories, 48 gm protein, 6 gm carbohydrates, 23 gm fat, 143 mg cholesterol, 10 gm saturated fat, 699 mg sodium, 1 gm dietary fiber

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Beginner Baker, D.C.: I'd like to start baking. Cakes, pies, pastry, cookies, but not bread. What is the difference between unbleached and bleached flour, and are they interchangeable? Are there any significant differences between brands (store brand, Gold Medal, King Arthur)? Thanks very much.

Jane Black: There is, as far as I know, no nutritional difference but veteran bakers say it does make a difference. Cooks Illustrated, which manically tests this kind of thing, recommends that you use unbleached in all applications. Some bakers say bleached flour is better for pastries because it has a slightly lower protein conte
n
t. As for brands, I've heard that King Arthur's is better for breads while Gold Medal is better for cookies but that's an ongoing debate.

Joe: I'm a KA devotee, through and through. And for cakes, you absolutely cannot beat their Queen Gueneviere cake flour. It beats that boxed supermarket stuff, hands down. The last time I checked, it was the only KA flour that was bleached.

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Silver Spring, Md.: I don't like celery, but really enjoy chicken salad sandwiches. Any recipes out there that don't include celery? Thanks!

Joe: Well, you could certainly take a favorite recipe and just leave out the celery, or add something else that's crunchy if you want, like shaved fennel, apple, or nu
ts. Here's a celery-free one we ran that's quick and easy: Spring Chicken Salad.

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Alexandria, Va.: Ok, so I just accidentally sent an email thinking it was for Tom's Chat, sorry!

I will rephrase my question, Where is the best place in DC or NOVA to buy Sushi grade fish to prepare at home? Any ideas.

Walter: For sushi-grade fish, I'm very picky and can only send you to MD. Daruma is a terrific Japanese market: 6931 Arlington Rd., Bethesda; 301-654-8832. Can anyone help with a place in DC or NOVA?

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Bethesda, Md.: Happy Halloween, Rangers! I'm looking for fresh quince for a lamb stew recipe. I haven't been able to find it at Whole Foods or Trader Joe's. Any ideas? Thanks!

Walter: Fresh quince are not the easiest fruit to find. But they have them for $1.99 each at Super H Mart in Fairfax. (10780 Fairfax Blvd.; 703-273-0570.)

Jane Touzalin: It's also worth calling Harris Teeter; sometimes they have fresh quince on their exotic-produce shelf. But it's hit or miss.

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Washington, D.C.: I made the Chocolate Peanut Butter Cake from last weeks food section and it was very good. I had asked about not baking all the pans at the same time due to my small oven and I tried that and it worked fine, in fact the one I baked on its own came out the best.

The only changes I made to the recipe was that I used reduced fat cream cheese and about 1/4 cup less powdered sugar in the filling (I ran out). It came out great.

Joe: Excellent!

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Holiday magazines..: Hi Foodies,

Any comments on the plethora of holiday cooking and baking magazines that are on the racks this time of year? I love looking at the pictures, but don't know if any are more generally reliable than others. What do you think? I don't want to choose based on the cover designers, but on the recipes.

I'm not interested in how to decorate baked goods, but am interested in increasing my repertoire of yummy baked goods. I'm on the lookout for "Holiday" foods I might not otherwise make.

What do you recommend?

Bonnie: B-I-G perk of this job is getting to see those mags early, which I love. I think Kim O'Donnel took a spin through a raft of Thanksgiving issues and reviewed in her Mighty Appetite blog. For holiday baking, I always find something worthy in the compilation issues put out by Fine Cooking, and Martha Stewart Living's cookie issue is not to be missed. Eating Well does a good j
o
b. Don't overlook Cucina Italiana or Donna Hay, though. And in those issues, even if you don't find a single thing you want to bake, invariably there are tips you can learn from.

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Silver Spring, Md.: We carved our pumpkin last night. Any good suggestions on how to use the seeds? Thanks!

Jane Black: Not sure you'll need more sweets after tonight but this recipe for pumpkin seed brittle is fun and different.

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help save my apples!: I bought a few cortland apples at the supermarket over the weekend. I just started to eat one and it turns out they are mushy and flavorless. I'm at work, so I'll have to get rid of the one I started to eat, but what can I do with the 2 small ones that are left? I hate to waste food.

Thanks for all your great suggestions, tips and recipes!

Joe: Three thoughts for you:

1. Do you have access to a farmers market? With apples in season, it's really a shame to buy them at a supermarket this time of ye
ar.

2. Did you refrigerate them? That's the best way to keep them crisp longe
st.

3. It's applesauce time. Cook them on the stovetop with a tiny splash of vanilla, a squeeze of lemon, and sugar to taste, until they fall apart.

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Preserved lemons: The Whole Foods in Old Town (Duke St) has a big jar of preserved lemons at the cheese counter. Clarendon WF might have the same.

Joe: Thanks!

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Sussex, NJ: I'm planning on turducken this year ¿ the first time I'm hosting Thanksgiving. I've looked online and I'm thinking of ordering from either www.hebertsmeats.com or www.cajunstuff.com, but I was wondering if you or any of the chatters have experience with these vendors or if there are other suggested sources.

I know I could have a local butcher could debone the three birds, but quite frankly, I'd rather have it all done and put together for me¿one less thing to worry about. Thanks!

Jane Black: Good question. Chatters -- got any advice?

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Washington, D.C.:

Where can I buy magret du canard in or near DC?

Jane Black: Magret de canard is duck breast and is pretty easy to find. Most Whole Foods will carry it fresh or froz
en.

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Mineral, Va.: I've found that Kroger's has Quince's a lot of times too.

Joe: For quince in a pinch.

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Non-tailgater: I was kinda surprised to read about the tailgate spreads in the Ravens v. Skins article. I've never been to a pro football game, and certainly never to a tailgate event of this magnitude, but I was taken aback to read how many seem, well, professional. Like restaurants more than tailgates. Isn't tailgating about hanging out with friends, a little bit like a potluck where perhaps one person is super-enthusiastic and does a lot of the work? I'm a bit surprised that the article would have included what seem to be basically mobile restaurants (surely, a couple of the set-ups described charge per plate). Just doesn't seem like real tailgating to me, but what do I know?

Bonnie: At the Ravens games, there were vendors among the outlying tailgaters, but honestly, the stuff regular people were grilling etc., looked better. It takes some organization, but nothing on a professional level. There's much that can be done on a grander scale thanks to the big box stores. That's not to say that we didnt see our share of opened bags of chips, with dips nearby, burgers and dogs on the grill, or as in Dan's video, people who had brought Popeye's chicken. Key word = fun.

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All about Pumpkin: Hi -- So I've been a little confused lately about baking with pumpkin from scratch. Do you have to use the small sugar pie pumpkins, or can you use the big, jack-o-latern sized ones for pumpkin pies and other baked goods? I always thought you had to use the small ones, but recently when at a cooking class, the instructor said the either type will work. Is this correct?

Bonnie: Stephanie Witt Sedgwick's column next week is on baking/cooking with pumpkin. But I can tell you now that the smaller pumpkins (2 to 3 pounds, she says) are better for cooking and baking -- certainly easier to hack into. Technically, though, your instructor's correct. Small, big, it's the same insides. You may run into more problems with greater moisture content/less sweetness with the flesh of larger on
es.

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for basil pesto maker: My Organic Market in Alexandria has been carrying resealable plastic bags of locally-grown (in a greenhouse, I assume), organic basil for months. It is wonderful; I just had a sandwich for lunch loaded with it. They are a generous amount, and I think it is $2.99.

Joe: Good to know...

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Arlington, Va.: Just curious: what are you giving away to trick-or-treaters who visit your homes tonight?!?

Joe: I haven't been home in time for the trick-or-treaters since I was trick-or-treating myself! Always working
... If I WERE home, I'd trick them with some fishy/crunchy things I picked up in Japan, no doubt.

Bonnie: Tootsie Pops, the candy of champion trick-or-treaters (notice how they're a little smaller this year?)

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Stuffing and a question:: Sourdough bread for the stuffing is amazing.

I have a food origin question: tamarind. I've recently viewed it in several ingredient lists and am trying to figure out if its something I'm allergic to. Can you help me with some general knowledge about it?

Jane Touzalin: Tamarind is a fruit pod that grows on trees. The long, flattish pod (sometimes tamarind drinks have a picture of it on the can) contains several seeds and the familiar pulp that appears as an ingredient in so many Asian/Latino/Indian recipes. There's no real substitute for the flavor, though some recipes say that if you can't find it, lime is the best alternative.

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Dan Steinberg: Hey Foodies, this is Dan Steinberg from Sports. I wanted to say, lest we gave the wrong impression, that there were certainly plenty of impressive tailgates at FedEx Field, and plenty of interesting food. The main story was just saying that, on the whole, downtown Baltimore is a more enjoyable tailgating experience, and the food we saw in Charm City seemed more adventuro
us.

Also, please don't ask me about Salt Cod.

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First-time tailgater: Help! I am going to my first-ever tailgate this weekend, at a football game at Shenandoah University. There will be about 20 people there, none of whom I've ever met (alumni gathering), so I have no idea about what kind of crowd it will be. I've been asked to bring an appetizer. Do you have any suggestions for easy finger food that doesn't need to be served hot? My plan B is getting a veggie tray from a grocery store, but I don't know how well that will go over.

Dan Steinberg: First-ever tailgate? Wow. Hard to imagi
ne.

Every tailgate in the world--or at least, in the continental U.S.--is filled with veggie trays. So you certainly wouldn't get any dirty looks if you went in that directi
on.

For something a little more creative, you could always try the cheese platter (spoken as a former cheese buyer). We saw one nice spread at a Redskins game where various (boring) cheeses were cut into chunks and drizzled with olive oil and chopped tomatoes. I'd be nervous about creating a greasy slime if I took a cheese plate to an asphalt lot on a sunny September day, but this is the perfect time of year.

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Mineral, Va.: I just wanted to say thank you. A friend asked a few weeks ago for the bagel recipes from '94 that I had lost. I made the bailys, they're wonderful. And just so you know, it makes wonderful pizza dough. (It makes 3 12" pizzas)

Joe: You're welcome!

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Salty, D.C.: I was reading that iodine was added to salt because we need it in order to prevent having a deficiency and thus a goiter. I have been using Kosher salt that does not have iodine in it so when I read this I panicked then I began to wonder - what about people who have high blood pressure and do not use salt? I have used the Kosher salt for many years so do I need to switch to iodized salt??? Does sea salt have iodine?

Joe: Don't fear: You can still get iodine from many other food sources, such as vegetables grown in iodine-rich soil, some seafood, and cheese. Indeed, sea salt isn't a good source of iodine. BTW, incidences of goiter and other iodine-deficiency diseases have decreased over the decades in developed nations, primarily because we eat food from so many global sources nowadays that the chances we'll ingest iodine in some form have increased.

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Richmond, Va.: if poster is surprised at the "professional" tailgating, she should check out the Gold cup for some really fancy stuff

Bonnie: Just went to that a few weekends ago. They certainly go all out in the decor dept. Some setups were fancier than my living room. But they don't seem to be doing any grilling -- all the food is prepared and either tailgate temp, or kept warm somehow.

Dan Steinberg: We actually discussed whether catered affairs at football games should really count as tailgates. Some different opinions. Certainly, more respect should go to anyone whose tailgates depend on actual flames.

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Falls Church, Va.: I've been asked to bring oatmeal cookies to an event next weekend, but won't be home next week to bake them. Will they freeze well? If so, after they're cool, do I freeze them individually and then throw them into a plastic bag? What's the best way to defrost them, on the counter or in the fridge? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to plan ahead. Thanks for the advice!

Joe: Yep, they'll freeze. Indeed, after cooling, freeze in zip-top bags or another airtight container, and feel free to defrost at room temp.

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Preserved Lemons: Were recently spotted in the olive bar at Whole Foods...

Bonnie: Saw those! good suggestion.

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Bethesda Mom: Thanks for today's Quick recipe--sounds delicious. I have two questions, first, is the smoked whitefish called for the same as NYC style "appetizing" smoke whitefish? Also, I have a spouse who can't abide the taste of cilantro--is there anything else I could add, like regular parseley? Dill?

Bonnie: You're welcome. Yes, that kind. For one of the times I tested this, I used smoked whitefish straight from the prepared case in the Giant seafood dept (skinned and boned). Sorry about the cilantro -- it's good with the mix of flavors here. Parsley'll do.

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Egg whites in cocktails: When I was at Chicago's Violet Hour this past weekend, I saw the bartenders crack dozens of eggs into shakers. I'm surprised the similar PX in Arlington doesn't have any cocktails containing egg whites on their menu.

Regarding Wilson's piece today, hopefully none of the houseguests he is serving egg white-laced cocktails to are newly pregnant. "What they don't know won't hurt them" isn't entirely true in that scenario.

Bonnie: Not to worry. Jason told us that none of his friends are immuno-compromised.

Joe: And PX's Todd Thrasher does use egg whites, in the Pisco Sour for one...

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Reston, Va.: Food and sports together--could this day get any better? Loved Dan's story. So Dan, what's the reason for that lackluster Redskin tailgatin' scene? Wussy team? Fickle fans? Or just the lousy stadium? Oh yeah, great recipes dude.

Dan Steinberg: All credit for the recipe collection and presentation goes to Bonnie. Or at least, not to
m
e. As I said below (or above, or whatever), the Redskins scene is not terrible. It was certainly more enticing than the New England Patriots scene I encountered this past weekend in Foxborough. I think part of the problem--at least, it would be for me--is that the setting in Raljon, or Landover, or whatever that place is called is just so sterile. Think of some of the most fabled tailgating spots in the U.S.--the great, scenic SEC campuses, for example. Then think of a massive suburban parking lot surrounded by town houses. Where would you rather hang o
u
t? There are thousands of people who go to FedEx early and line up outside the gates so they can begin their tailgates as soon as allowed, but I have to believe that more people would go early and go all out if the setting were a bit more attracti
v
e. Also, the Ravens stadium is surrounded by private pay lots, while FedEx is ringed by lots that demand parking passes. That might have something to do with it, as well.

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pumpkin patch: I'm going out of town for about 3 weeks and I haven't yet carved my pumpkin, but I intend to bake a pumpkin bread with it. Can I scoop out the inside and freeze it until I get back, to bake it later? Also, does applesauce freeze well?

Bonnie: yep and yep.

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Merengue for dummies: My husband and I tried to make chocolate mousse Saturday night using the WP recipe adapted from chef Michel Richard. I'm not sure what happened, perhaps I overmixed the egg whites, but when I poured the merengue into the chocolate and whipped cream, the merengue blopped out, followed by a stream of liquid. I quickly poured as much of the liquid out of the chocolate mix and back into a small bowl to try to re-merengue it, but no go. So I used the merengue that I had and finished my chocolate mousse and refridgerated it. So my first question is, can I get salmonella from whatever liquid got mixed into the chocolate? And my second is, did I overmix? I used the lowest speed, stopping to check every 20-30 seconds. I was waiting for the billowy peaks.

Jane Touzalin: I wasn't there to watch, but rather than overmixing, it sounds like the opposite might've been your problem. Egg whites won't become those billowy peaks you're after if you beat them on "the lowest spee
d." As to salmonella, I'm not a health professional but as our Spirits columnist Jason Wilson wrote in his column this week, your odds of getting it are pretty low. Also, it's my understanding that the vast majority of any salmonella bacteria inside an egg would be in the yolk, not the white.

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More cooking pumpkin: I got a small cooking pumpkin from my CSA last week. I was thinking of roasting it and adding it to pasta. My question is do I cut it in half, take the seeds out, roast, then cube and mix in the pasta? Or peel, de-seed, cube then roast?

Thanks!!

Joe: Either way would work, but it really depends on whether you want those cubes to stay intact. If you roast pumpkin halves, would be easier to scoop the cooked flesh into pasta, and would surely be delish, but it wouldn't exactly be cubes.

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Washington, D.C.: I'm interested in doing something with pumpkin for Thanksgiving other than dessert--something that would be part of the main course. What would think if making some kind of pumpkin puree to pour over lightly steamed green beans? Any recipe ideas?

Bonnie: Wait 1 week, and Stephanie Witt Sedgwick's Roasted Pumpkin and Wild Rice Pilaf, and Curried Pumpkin and Chickpea Chowder, can be yours.

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South Dakota : Bread for Stuffing: When I make stuffing / dressing (depends on where you're from)I use a combination of breads for flavor and texture. I almost always include plain white, but think of the other side dishes. If you are in a house where the age old green bean casserole with mushroom soup is standard add a cheese bread to your mix, rye and sourdough are great too. Going more mediterranean with the sides add oliver or a tomato flavored bread. Herbed breads are very good when making dressing with sausage and mushrooms.

Bonnie: A voice of experience.

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Egg-whites in drinks...: for pregnant woman? Should you be more concerned about the eggs, or the booze?

Bonnie: Good point!

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Asian Chowdah - Help!: Folks - today's chowder recipe from Nigella Lawson refers to "3/4 pounds deveined frozen shrimp", but doesn't say whether the frozen shrimp is cooked or not. The given simmering time (4 minues) doesn't seem to be enough time to cook raw shrimp. Please, could you clarify the recipe as I intend to use it for tonight's dinner? Many thanks!!!

Bonnie: COOKED.

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re: egg whites: My BIL and I were just having a debate yesterday of whether we should risk attempting to make homemade eggnog because all the recipes call for raw eggs. We were wondering how manufactuers pastuerize the raw eggs in the milk without cooking them. Is there a safe way to make eggnog at home?

Bonnie: read all about it (the process, not the eggnog) at Davidson's Pasteurized Eggs

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Maryland: I know there was an article a few weeks ago about venison from red deer, but do you have any good recipes for regular venison? My husband killed his first deer last weekend, and I need some good recipes! I grew up eating venison (and elk, moose, caribou- my dad was a big hunter), but my mom was not the most creative when it came to cooking, so we'd always have either a plain steak or a roast with gravy.

I have to say, I was excited when I first looked at the article on venison, until I read that the deer was farm raised and a red deer. Give me a break! There must be other people who hunt around here, why can't you do an article on wild game recipes? Or is it just not a PC enough topic? Thanks.

Walter: What you need are your Mother's recipes. Game such as venison, wild or farm raised it makes no difference, is best simply roasted or grilled.

washingtonpost.com: Recipe: Venison Rack Chops.

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Quinces: There's a quince tree on Calvert Street just loaded with ripe fruit if someone's brave enough to pick it! The tree is just past the Ellington Bridge in the direction of Adams Morgan, right side.

Jane Touzalin: I had a quince tree in the back yard of my last house and can just about promise that if no one has cared for the tree by spraying for bugs, the fruit is probably full of holes. But sometimes you can carve around them if there aren't too many. One important thing to remember with quince: They are unbelievably HARD, even when ripe. Use a really sharp knife, and don't hurt yourself.

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Washington, D.C.: Ok, I just read the yummy sounding recipe from Nigella's cookbook, but I was wondering about the comment re: the "food photography." I just wanted to make sure this wasn't some code, because I have serious photography issues with certain cookbooks. And I mean you Giada! There were far more pictures of her cleavage than her food. I know that some probably buy her books for that, but she's really not my type.

Bonnie: Oh, I meant straight-up photos of food. Nigella's more photogenic -- with less-revealing kitchen wear -- than some others we see cooking on tv.

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North Pole: I would like to get started on my fruitcake this weekend. My dried fruit has been drunkenly soaking for a few weeks now. Do you have any good batter recipes and tips for storage?

Bonnie: Few of us here this season are as qualified to speak fruitcake as Kim O'Donnel. Check out A Mighty Appetite

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Pine Plains, NY: The traveling-to-relatives season is about to begin with a pot luck birthday party followed by T Day... I sure could use ideas for side dishes that can be served at room temperature to bring along.

Bonnie: This was published just today: Forbidden Black Rice Salad With Ginger Vinaigrette

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tamarind: similar to bean family. Found in Worchestershire Sauce.

Joe: Similar to bean family? Only in that it's a pod, but it's filled with brown paste and hard, inedible seeds. Indeed, found in Worchestershire (as is fish sauce). My favorite way to eat it are in those candy balls you find in the Caribbean: Basically just the pulp, seeds included, rolled into balls and then in sugar. The sweet-tart combo is addictive, big time.

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Oakton, Va.: Dan--What was the male to female cook ratio? My husband says the best tailgating cooks are men just cuz of all the testosterone surrounding the stadiums. (Whatev)

Dan Steinberg: Couldn't give you an exact ratio, but definitely far more men than women holding the tongs. Then again, NFL crowds tend to be more manly than womanly in general.

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Joe: Stick a fork in us, chatters: We're done! That's all our time today; thanks for your challenging and entertaining questions, yet aga
in.

Now for the book winners: The Bethesda mom who asked about whitefish and cilantro will get "Nigella Express," and the mousse-maker who mangled her meringue will get "New American Bistro Cooking." Just email your mailing info to food@washpost.c
om.

Until next time, happy cooking, eating and reading...

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