Talk About Travel

Trips to make a life change, the Galapagos Islands, Barbados, carry-on luggage advice, shipping goods overseas and more.

The Post's Travel Section Flight Crew will take your comments, questions, suspicions, warnings, gripes, sad tales and happy endings springing from the world of ... the world. Of course, the Flight Crew will be happy to answer your travel questions -- but the best thing about this forum, we insist, is that it lets travelers exchange information with other travelers who've been there, done that or otherwise have insights, ideas and information to share. Different members of the Crew will rotate through the captain's chair every week, but the one constant is you, our valued passengers.

We know you have a choice in online travel forums, and speaking for the entire Flight Crew, we want to thank you for flying with us.

You may also browse an archive of previous live travel discussions. For daily dispatches, check out Travel Log, the Travel section's new blog.

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Gary Lee: Greetings. Gary Lee at the helm here. On hand to field your questions today we have a nearly full crew: Travel Editor KC Summers; Deputy Editor John Deiner; Staff Writers Carol Sottili, Andrea Sachs, Cindy Loose and Scott Vogel; and researcher Christina Talcott. As usual, we will do our best to assist with any tips we can offer. As usual, we welcome thoughts. comments or reports from the field from you.

This is the last week of 22 years at the Washington Post, the last decade of which I have devoted to travel journalism. I am leaving to pursue book writing and other passions. I came to the Post as chief of the Moscow bureau in 1985 and documented the end of the communist era. I returned to the Russian capital a couple of weeks ago and will be writing a dispatch about my impressions of that wholly transformed city.

Writing for the Travel section has given me the opportunity to take a monumental tour of the world. I have visited -- and written about -- 68 different countries and 46 US states. I found every experience along the way remarkable. A concert in biblical era ruins in Lebanon. An all night search for the best rum punch in Port of Spain. Making beds as a housekeeper at the Ritz Carlton in Washington, DC. Stumbling around the Amazon in Suriname looking for a rare bird species. I am particularly glad to have been able to have you as travel companions along the way and to have shared in many of your sojourns, too.

The very capable team here will carry on informing and guiding you. But if any of your have travel queries for me, I am happy to share what I know. Drop me a line at askgarylee@gmail.com

And speaking of transitions, I wonder if any of you have taken trips to make a life change. The best and most original story will win a surprise gift.

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Raleigh, NC: I missed an early morning flight this weekend due to illness (I was up sick all night and couldn't get on the plane). From looking at the info from JetBlue, it appears that if I didn't cancel or reschedule in advance, I am completely SOL. Is there any - even the remotest - possibility that I might be able to get some type of credit with the airline? I know it's a remote possibility, but any advice you could give would be appreciated. Thanks

Cindy Loose: I'm afraid you are really SOL. JetBlue actually has one of the more generous policies, allowing passengers with nonrefundable tickets to make a change up until departure time, for a $45 fee.

Some airlines require more notice, and charge more for a change. Sorry about that.

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Alexandria, VA: For parents of study-abroad college students, do you have suggestions on buying tickets (to Italy in my son's case)? Is it better to buy round trip tickets, knowing that plans may change for the return including dates and departure city? For mid-January departures, should we buy a ticket now? All students are leaving from their own individual hometowns, so no group discount is anticipated.

Also, thanks for the fare watcher column in the SUnday travel section. For your readers, try farecompare.com for help. I've registered on that website for this Italy trip as well, but it doesn't help re my general questions re the open-ended type of student travel I anticipate will happen.

Carol Sottili: I bought a round-trip ticket for my daughter when she studied abroad in the spring semester. I'd urge my child not to change plans - some airlines charge hefty change fees of a couple of hundred dollars. I'd reserach the fare on several sites - www.farecast.com, www.farecompare.com www.kayak.com, www.orbitz.com, www.travelocity.com - then check those fares on teh airline's Web site. If you can find anything to Italy for $700 round trip or less, including taxes, I'd buy now.

As for www.farecompare.com, I'm also a fan. I wish they would include taxes in the fare when they send their alerts.

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Washington, DC: If I have time for 1 day trip from las vegas, would you go to the hoover dam or red rock canyon? Could either of these be half day trips? Is it possible to rent a car near the strip, or is the airport the best bet? Other than that day, I don't think we'll need a car.

John Deiner: Hey, DC. You can rent cars all over the place. Check to see if your hotel has a car rental firm on site -- lots of hotels do.

As far as day trips, you could probably do both if you started early enough, but if you just wanted to do one, we have two different votes here. Cindy would do Red Rock Canyon, which is spectacular and ideal for hiking. But I'd vote for Hoover Dam, which is unique (it's just so darned cool!).

And you won't need a car if you're sticking close to the Strip otherwise. Hop on the Deuce, the cheapo double-decker buses that are constantly winding up and down the main roads.

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DC-Heathrow: Is the cheapest way to get British Pounds Sterling, to just get money from the ATM at Heathrow airport? I'm assuming they have ATMs at the airport, for whatever reason I never looked before, but now that I'm travelling with a child, these things become more important. We just need money to take a taxi to Northwood, and we prefer not to pay the fees at Travelex in the US.

Christina Talcott: No need to worry - there are plenty of ATMs at Heathrow, and you can use them anytime.

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Dresden: Been going back and forth with Expedia in regards to a refund since May. The airline cancelled a March flight in September. Expedia did not notify us till a week and a half before the flight was scheduled to leave. The airline agreed to a refund and as is their policy, they sent the check to the ticket agent-Expedia. We've been emailing on this for months and still no credit on the credit card.

Prefer email since phone calls are difficult. We live in Europe most of the year. We are headed back to the States in two weeks. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Carol Sottili: I think it's time to pick up the phone. Here's the # for customer support - 800-397-3342. Remind them of "The Expedia Promise" (basically says they're guarantee you'll be a happy camper with their service).

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Dupont Circle, Washington, DC: Hi! Three friends and I are planning a trip to Rio to celebrate Carnivale 2008, and we noticed that prices are very expensive, especially for accommodations. Any suggestions on planning a Carnivale trip on a budget?

Gary Lee: That's a tough one since every with a spare bed charges a premium for it. I would suggest looking into renting a private condo or apartment. For starters, check out the Websites www.homeaway.com and www.vrbo.com. Be careful that the place you choose is in an decent neighborhood not too far afield from the Carnival actions.

Anyone else with thoughts on this?

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Bethesda Mom: Not a question, just a "thank you" to Gary for all his years of insightful journalism. I have enjoyed your travel writings, especially on Russia and elsewhere in Eastern Europe where you have lived. I hope to visit that part of the world one day and your articles make for great "arm chair" voyaging.

Gary Lee: Eastern Europe is still a great largely unexplored frontier. I hope you have a chance to go while it is still untrampled and fresh.

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Fairfax, Va.: Couldn't help but notice the NY Times Travel section did a very similar story as well this past weekend. Did your paths cross while doing your research down there?

KC Summers: Hi Fx. This happens from time to time, since travel sections occasionally have theme issues coordinated with the seasons or certain holidays. Since this is the time of year everyone starts thinking longingly about warm-weather destinations, we naturally want to help readers out with tips and stories on how to choose a destination, deals, etc. You'll see this happen with special cruise and ski issues, too.

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Washington, DC: My boyfriend and I are planning a trip to Vietnam, and the time that works best for us is mid-June to mid-July next year. We were going to try and travel north to south, but will we be running into horrible weather with some of the rainy seasons?

Cindy Loose: Hi--it will be hot then, and it's rainy season so it's hard to say how much rain you'll get. It is a few degrees cooler in the north, and a lot cooler in Dalat and Sapa, which is why those areas have long been vacation spots for Vietnamese and French. But I wouldn't not go if that were the only time I could go.

I would say I like the north and central areas much better than the south, because it is less developed and retains more of it's old world French charm, as opposed to the influences of young American military personnel. If I had say two weeks I'd do Hanoi, the bay north of there, Hue, DaNang and the mountains around DaNang, and Dalat.

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Anonymous: Gary,

How interesting that you were in Moscow for the fall of the Soviet Union.

My family and I were also there during this time.

We saw history being made, didn't we?

Kathy

Gary Lee: Yes, it seemed then that every day a new page of history was unfolding. It's still unfolding, though on a less breathtaking scale.

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Falls Church, VA: I will be embarking on a four month trip on two continents (S.America and Africa), in which I will have to do some work along the way - pretty much every single day. I am bringing my laptop because it is much more convenient than spending 3-4 hours in front of a cybercafe.

I am sure a lot of you have traveled with laptops, especially in developing countries. Any tips? I plan on carrying a regular backpack and not a laptop bag. But is it safer to leave it in the hotel/hostal in a locked bag or take it with you as you explore the city?

Andrea Sachs: Good call on bringing the laptop, since you might have a rough time seeking out an Internet cafe some teeny villages. Carry your laptop in an unobtrusive carrier, like a backpack, but make sure it has a hard covering or that your laptop is in an extra protective case. Also buy a little lock for the zipper, so no one can reach in and grab it in a crowd. Never check your computer on flights. Also, bring an extra battery pack, a surge protector and a spare PC card modem, even if you have an internal. Be careful too of extreme heat and temperatures. If your hostel or hotel has an in-room safe or locked locker, then you can leave it at your place of lodging. But never leave it in a locked bag. If that is your only option, bring it with you instead.

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Richmond, VA: Hi. We've decided to take a short Thanksgiving vacation (Wed./Thurs. to Sunday) and have been trying to find some last minute Thanksgiving travel ideas for places to go.A deal would be great, but we are open to pretty much anything.

Thanks.

Scott Vogel: It may be a little obvious, but trip to New York is always in order, given the Macy's Thanksgiving Day parade and the opening of the Christmas shopping season. (Consider hotels in such Northern New Jersey towns as Edison and Elizabeth, or the Newark Airport area, to avoid NYC's sky-high hotel rates.)That weekend's also your last chance to visit some parts of Shenandoah National Park (the Skyland Resort closes that weekend), including various visitors centers. Finally, consider Annapolis -- my pick for a short getaway that actually feels like you've taken a real trip.

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Alexandria, VA: Really odd question: Is it possible to transport olive oil from Italy, or has the no-liquids rule totally limited vacation bring-backs? Several friends recently returned and every bottle, no matter how carefully wrapped and padded in their luggage had burst, (is pressurization an issue?) and we wondered on our next trip if we should just forget it and stick to cheese. Wondered if your readers had any experience or advice here.

Cindy Loose: You certainly can't take it carry on, but it doesn't seem you were thinking that. As for checking, no problem from security point of view, but your friends' problems with bursting would concern me. All I can tell you is that I flew a few months ago from California to DC with olive oil from a place I visited in my checked luggage, and it arrived fine. I didn't do anything special with it, just a tad of bubble wrap. The wine also arrived intact.

Anyone else flown with such items, and how did they do?

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Glen Allen, VA: First: Good luck on your new venture, Gary. Now my question: After having a great time at the National Folk Festival in Richmond a few weeks ago, I'm considering heading to Butte, Montana for next year's NFF. I thought it might be a good idea to couple that with a few nights at a guest/dude ranch somewhere in Montana or even Wyoming. Any tips, pointers, warnings?

Gary Lee: Thanks. Luck always helps.

Alas, you have asked about the few states that I have not visited and that others on the staff here do not know well. Do any of you have thoughts about Montana or Wyoming?

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Emergency Row English (update from last week's chat): I raised a question last week regarding the requirement that passengers seated in an exit row be able to speak, read and understand English. This was after noticing that the instructions printed on my tray table were in English and Spanish. The label was specifically made for JetBlue, so I doubt that it is a generic product.

The Federal regulation which governs language to be used in emergency exit briefings is included in 14 CFR 121.585. The wording is pretty dry and does not specify English directly, but uses wording like "in the primary language in which emergency commands are given by the crew". You can find the entire text here: http://www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/waisidx_04/14cfr121_04.html.

While I am not losing any sleep over this, it still strikes me as odd since JetBlue is still going to give briefings in English on flights to/from San Juan which I confirmed with a bilingual flight attendant.

I just feel like having a bilingual label confuses the issue.

Carol Sottili: If the flight crew speaks Spanish and English, my guess is that it's OK for a person in the exit row to speak Spanish. The flight crew gives directions to those in the exit row seats, and they must be able to follow those directions. I'm more concerned when I see people sitting in exit row seats who don't look anywhere near fit enough to open a 50-pound door.

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For Vegas-bound traveler: For the person looking for a day trip from Las Vegas, I made day trips to both Red Rock Canyon and the Hoover Dam, but I suggest Valley of Fire State Park. It is very doable as a day trip from Las Vegas (I did it myself that way). It blew away Red Rock Canyon for cool rock formations, and was more interesting to me than Hoover Dam.

John Deiner: Okay, so we have a vote for, uh, neither. And, as always, depends on what your interests are. For a lot of folks, cool rock formations will always trump big ol' dams.

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Vienna, Va: Headed back to Sydney Wednesday at 5pm from Dulles. and haven't traveled international in a couple months. I have Premier status (first class check in) on United and wanted to know how early I should get there. I always end up spending an hour plus at the gate. I would rather just get there later instead of sitting around the gate area.

Cindy Loose: Sitting at the gate is no fun, I agree, but it's more fun than missing the flight.

As to when to be there varies by airport, time of day etc., but airlines on their websites have recommended times to arrive at the airport and I'd follow them. You're flying out at "rush hour" so to speak, and although being premier you'll save some time checking in, I wouldn't stray too far from recommendations.

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University Park, MD: Hey, travel gurus--we're planning a trip to Paris in the spring and are getting quite anxious about dollar droppage. Can you suggest any hotels, hotel chains, or websites that allow prepayment, or accept payment in dollars? I'd love to lock in a rate and stop obsessing. Thanks!

Gary Lee: I think you will find that all of the major online discounters -- travelocity, expedia, hotels.com, will accept payment in advance. Also, if you settle on a hotel and call them I am pretty certain that they will oblige you as well.

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getting home from BWI: My family is flying out of DCA and back into BWI, so we won't have our car when we arrive in B'more. What are our best options to get back home? Thanks!

Christina Talcott: You have a couple of options. If you're flying in to BWI on a weekday, you can take a shuttle to the BWI rail station and take the MARC train to New Carrollton or Union Station for $5 or $6 (www.mtamaryland.com). On weekends and nights, there are also Amtrak trains from the rail station for about twice the price. There's also a bus from Greenbelt, the B30, that runs until about 10 p.m. and costs $3.

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College Park, MD: In Paris the first Sunday of the month, many of the museums are free. They even let ime in front of the line. At other times museums let you in free if you are disabled. Almost everyone is very nice offering their seat on metro if you have a cane. Americans should relink the image that hte French have around here.

Gary Lee: As a longtime homeowner in Paris and frequent visitor there, I could not agree more.

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Flying w/stuffing, Va: Travel Crew,

I'm attending a Thanksgiving gathering in Portland Maine and am responsible for the stuffing/dressing. What is the best way to bring it with me, on the plane? I'm guessing frozen in a checked bag, but do you have any other ideas?

Thanks!!!

Cindy Loose: Wow, asking guests traveling by plane to bring stuffing/dressing is a new one on me. Shouldn't the stuffing be put in the bird? I can't think of any way to transport such a thing except to freeze it. Technically it's not a gel or liquid so maybe you could carry on, but I'd think TSA would be extremely suspicious of a big lump of frozen stuffing and it could cause problems, so I'd say check it---if you can't get out of bringing major ingredients.

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Life-changing trips: This is probably fairly common, but I wanted to make sure it didn't get lost among potentially more-exciting stories.

I studied abroad for a semester in college. I was 20, and decided to go to Vienna, Austria. I spoke no German beyond "bitte" and "danke," but I wasn't interested in English- or Spanish-speaking countries.

At the end of the semester, my parents came to visit and witnessed a complex conversation with my landlady - all in German - and my ability to navigate in cultures foreign to them (including France, even though I spoke no French either). I expected a life-changing experience of the trip as a whole. What I didn't expect was that my parents' visit would cause them to then view me (and treat me) as an adult who could take care of myself entirely. I credit it with the great adult relationship I have with my parents now.

Gary Lee: Hey, wonderful story, not common at all. Thanks much for sharing it.

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Re: Life Changing Trip: I was born and raised in a developing country where you can't even imagine on getting on a plane and visiting other countries, especially on my family's middle class income. I worked at resorts in the summer while in college, and met a lot of foreign people, which I thought was my only access to other countries. I wrote Christmas cards to those I met, ending how much I'd love to see their countries one day. One of them invited me to Belgium, when I said I couldn't afford it, he sent me a plane ticket. That was a life changing experience, and I don't think I stopped traveling ever since. After about 15 years, I am an American citizen, have been on almost all continents but Africa and Antarctica, have visited numerous countries and states and have friends all over the world. I often wonder where I'd be without that person and that first trip. One of my dreams to have a foundation or charity to help people see other places on earth, especially those who can't even dream of it. Every trip is a life-changing experience in my opinion, if we only chose to see what is around us. "Wise man travels to discover himself"

Gary Lee: Wow, very moving story. Sounds like you have taken good advantage of the opportunities before you. Thanks for writing.

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Washington: Could you do a roundup of suggestions/advice for holiday traveling with pets? I'm flying with my cat to my parents' house in Texas for Thanksgiving--it's a first for her and I'm nervous to see how she'll react. Two and a half hours with a howling cat won't win me many friends, I think.

Do any of the other chatters have tips?

Thanks so much!

Cindy Loose: Since you mention howling, I take it the cat is going in a carrier under the seat. I'll also assume you've already checked size requirements and are all squared away with the airline and their regulations, right?

Probably someone is going to object to this, but when I flew with my cat I'd get the vet to give me something to keep her calm. Aside from her once throwing up in the cage, that worked.

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Frequent-flyer missing miles?: I flew Virgin Atlantic last fall to London and back; signed up newly for their miles program. When I returned, no miles showed up on this new account. Called them. They said miles went to a "partner program." I hadn't given them a partner program membership number, and said so; they said the miles went to American Airlines, and cited a member number-- one that was NOT MINE. I told them this was not my member number, and that I hadn't made this request. Long story short: they demanded I get a statement in writing from AA that I had not received miles from them (which I did, after some serious drama, as AA couldn't understand why VA was disputing my claim that I am not that other member number), and fax it to them (which I also did)-- it's been MONTHS and I've heard nothing back, no emails, no returned phone calls, and more to the point, no credited miles for that flight almost a year ago. Can you help or advise?

Carol Sottili: You've probably been calling the customer support phone number, but if not, it's 800-365-9500.

I'd send a copy of the letter from AA via certified mail, with a cover letter outlining the history. The address is:

Customer Relations

Virgin Atlantic Airways

The Office, Manor Royal

Crawley, West Sussex

RH10 9NU

ENGLAND

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Arlington, Va: Do you have any specific recommendations for all-inclusive chains or locations for single travelers who just want to get away and unwind?

Andrea Sachs: If you want quiet and calm, avoid family-oriented resorts like Beaches. Also, hyper-active islands like the Bahamas and Jamaica can cut into your veg time; though, remember, you can always find a quiet patch of beach or pool anywhere in the Caribbean. When choosing a resort, look to see how many bars, discos, etc., they have. Five swim-up bars probably means a big party crowd; a beach and lobby bar is probably a more mellow scene.

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A big trip- a big move: This isn't so much a trip as a move - my parents just moved to Maine from Hungary. I've lived here for over a decade and we've had enough of being so far away, so they packed their stuff and moved! I think they are the bravest travelers in the world! And talk about changing their lives!

Gary Lee: As someone who has moved to various couuntries, I can concur. I wish them well in this new phase of life.

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Silver Spring, Md: you're probably going to get a lot of comments that Sandals is not friendly to gay couples. did you check into this?

Andrea Sachs: Sandals did away with its no gay couple rule not too long away, so all pairs are welcome.

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New York, NY: A friend of mine is teaching in Ecuador for several months and would like me to join her for a visit to the Galapagos Islands. I am concerned about costs - getting from Quito to the Islands, touring the Islands, etc. Is there an inexpensive way to do this trip?

John Deiner: Hey, New York. In a word: no, alas. It's a really expensive proposition, because there are relatively few ships offering tours and they're in great demand. Park admission alone is $100, and flights to the islands are expensive.

If you want, you can base yourself on the main island of Santa Cruz and take day trips to some of the surrounding islands, which will offer you a taste of the Galapagos but by no means the whole Galapagos experience.

Anyone out there with any ideas for NYNY?

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Greenbelt, MD: Hey! Thanks so much for those great island all-inclusive tips. I was interested in Barbados, but it didn't seem like there were any all-inclusives on the island? Thoughts about travelling there? Where are the best beaches? Anything I should worry about? I'm in the very beginning stages of planning a honeymood, so any thoughts will be helpful! Thanks and best.

KC Summers: Hey Greenbelt. Glad you liked the package. Barbados does, indeed, have all-inclusive resorts -- they're just not in the same bargain league as the other places we wrote about. Note that we weren't providing a complete list of places, just a starting point. The hope was that we would explain how we made our choices, and readers could then use our methods to find their own perfect spots.

Anyway, I just googled "Barbados all-inclusives" and came up with a nice list, including the Mango Bay resort on the west coast (the calmest and most swimmable), with rooms starting at $450 a night. Yes, it's a pricey island. For one thing, it's about the farthest away from the U.S. But man, is it gorgeous. When I visited, I stayed on the south coast to save a few bucks -- the water was rougher there, but we just hopped on a public bus to the west coast beaches. The east and north coasts are beautiful too, but very rough since they front the Atlantic.

The great thing about Barbados is that there's so much to do there besides lie on the beach. There are old Anglican stone churches (it really does look like England), cool fishing villages (do NOT miss the Oistins fish fry on Friday nights), an underground cavern, pottery works, etc. It's a great island for exploring.

Anyone else got Barbados tips for Greenbelt?

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Alexandria, VA: My wife and I are taking a trip in January and considering Egpyt. We'll have 5-6 nights there, and plan to spend them in Cairo and Luxor. We're looking for suggestions on how to split the time and make sure we hit all the "must-see" sites. Is it better to take the overnight train between those cities or to fly? Any tips appreciated. Thanks

Gary Lee: Alas, Egypt is not a part of the world that we are very familiar with.

Can anyone offer tips there?

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credit card issue with expedia: if you have been trying back and forth with expedia since may, just stop. call your ccard company and follow THEIR processes. You didn't get the service you paid for, then you can get the ccard charge refunded. let expedia work it out with the CCard firm.

Carol Sottili: Except that most credit cards give you a finite time period to challenge - usually 90 days, I believe.

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North Carolina: What does THIS mean? Sandals is best for "couples whose last stop before the airport was David's Bridal." What's with the attitude?

My husband and I had a great honeymoon at Sandals Ocho Rios four years ago. After spending years as poor graduate students backpacking and pinching zloty all over Europe, we thought we deserved a rest. And as poor graduate students, we took what we could AFFORD!

Andrea Sachs: I am sorry but that description was not thick with attitude. It was a mere way to describe the type of traveler who goes to Sandals. What it means: Engaged couples who are planning a destination wedding and often are on a budget. Which sounds similar to your situation.

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Waldorf, Md: I enjoyed reading your AI section yesterday.It surprizes me that Palace Resorts wasn't featured as they have 9 resorts in the Cancun area, one in Puerto Vallarta and one to open in 2008 in Punta Cana.AI is the only way to go in my opinion. We've been going to Cancun every year to a Palace Resort since buying into their Palace Premier membership in 2000. This is NOT a timeshare. We have tours, golf,airport shuttle,entertainment, and spa services included in our AI fee and never have to take out a wallet while there.We do tip as most AI people do although a couple dollars goes a long way.We only spend extra money on spa services which we pay at checkout.Food is delicious and most of their resorts have more than 4 restaurants to choose from. No $$ surprises for us at the end of vacation as we have paid our AI fee before travel.

Andrea Sachs: Glad you enjoyed the section. Unfortunately, with tight space and so many AI chains, I had to make the cut somewhere. Glad that you can give Palace Resorts a nod, though. Thanks!

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Washington, DC: Hi, Crew!

A friend and I are treating ourselves to a luxury getaway weekend in mid-November. We're flying into Manchester, NH and driving to a resort in Stowe, VT. We both love quaint little mainstreets with interesting shopping. Are there any little towns we should hit on the way or will we find what we're looking for in Stowe itself? We're both New England novices, so any suggestions would be gratefully appreciated. Thanks!

Scott Vogel: I'd vote for Waterbury, VT., as a good stop, and not only because it's the home of Ben & Jerry's. Foodies of all sorts will find safe haven there. In New Hampshire, not far off I-89, are the small towns of Contoocook and Hopkinton, both of which offer a surfeit of quaintness and history.

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Tampa, Fla: Need some advice on carry-on luggage.

I need a new garment bag to hold my men's business suits. The choices are a traditional over-the-shoulder bag like my old one, or a smaller wheelie version. The wheelie holds less, but precisely fits the airline carry-on size template (45 inches total W x H x L).

The over-the-shoulder barely fits (51.5 inches total W x H x L). I would have to squeeze it to fit the template. If it was full, it'd be real tight fit. I think my last trip I managed to put more than 50 lbs in my old over-the-shoulder bag. I don't like to check any luggage and I don't mind lugging a heavy bag, but I would be not at all happy having to check my garment bag because it doesn't quite fit.

Which do airlines check more closely for carry ons: fit or weight?

Are the airlines being so strict that they would not allow a bag that is only a few inches too big or a few pounds overweight? Do they have any plans to further restrict the size or weight of carry ons?

Cindy Loose: Airlines have cracked down alot on luggage. I'd almost guarantee that any airline you fly will be holding you to the weight limit, or making you pay for being over. I'm less certain about how exact they'd be if your bag looked like it was close to being the right size. On the one hand I've not had anyone ask me to prove my bag was the right size by seeing if it would fit into those little wooden boxes they sometimes have at the check in counter. If the bag itself fits their requirements and it gets a tiny bit over because it's stuffed, you take a risk of having to check it, or of taking out enough stuff to make it fit. (You'd be suprised how much you can wear in a pinch.)

On the other hand, they have the rules for a reason, and you might find a problem forcing your bag into the bin. Bottom line: My advise is to buy a bag that fits common rules and avoid problems for yourself, including the problem of facing the ire of passengers waiting for you to stuff your 20 inch bag into a 19 inch hole.

P.S. Size and weight requirments tend to be less generous overseas, so if you plan to travel outside the U.S., the smaller bag you buy the better.

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Life-changing trips: In preparation for a vacation trip to the homeland of two of my grandparents several years ago, I enrolled in a couple years of a foreign language course, so I could speak the local language a bit, and read the signs.

On my first trip I met, among others, a well-known local author. On my second trip there a couple years later I got together with him and some of his friends, including a naturalized American who was translating the author's latest novel into English.

Very long story short: owing to English being my native language, plus some fluency in my ancestors' language, I became co-translator on the novel -- and have since developed a new career as a professional translator!

Gary Lee: Further proof that you should always be prepared for serendipity on the road -- or at home. Very nice story. Thanks.

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flying with stuffing: can I just say . . . ewwwwww. Hello salmonella!

Stuffing is so easy to make. if you insist on bringing the ingredients you can put t in checked luggage(though why?), just don't bring it premade.

Is there really not anyone at the arrival end who can be bothered to pick up the ingredients for you to make when you get there? This is taking potluck to the extreme.

Cindy Loose: It's quick, too--melt a stick of butter, fry some onions and celery, pour that and a bit of broth or water over it, throw in loads of walnuts and it's ready to pop into the oven for 30 minutes.

If the hosts can't supply the stuffing, at least maybe they could hold off eating until 45 minutes after your arrival?

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Alexandria, VA: for Richmond going away for T'giving. I'd second NYC, and suggest the following (giving away my secret here, ugh): Take Amtrak to Metropark. Book a room at the Hikton Woodbridge. It is an easy .5 mile walk. You then can take NJ Transit into the City for $21 RT to Penn Station. It really is the only way to do that trip unless you want to wrestle with traffic or pay obscenely for a hotel. This way is wasy and convenient and the hotel is nice.

Scott Vogel: Another good Thanksgiving suggestion. If it weren't for towns like these, far fewer travelers would be able to have enjoyable, affordable NYC vacations.

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Boston, Mass: Life Changing Travel: In February of 1998, when I was 28, a friend and I decided on a couple hours' notice to go to Puerto Rico. There were amazing airling sales going on, as the previous fall a hurricane had hit. At the time, it was the most spontaneous trip I'd ever not-planned. We had dinner on a Friday, and I was recovering from a horrible flu, and we both wanted to go somewhere warm, because, if you know Boston, then you know that February is the WORST month ever! The following Wednesday, he emails me a great airfare. I ask my boss, who happens to be standing next to me, what he thought about me leaving on Saturday to go to PR and not returning until the following Friday. He said, "Go for it." We booked our tickets and flew out Saturday afternoon. A most amazing trip. And it encouraged me to FINALLY take that trip to Paris the following year, which I'd been longing to do since I was 16 years old. It was a turning point for me, because it taught me that I don't have to overplan everything to have a great time, and it also taught me how to be an international traveler. This is something I've asked other friends to learn how to do, and they've always learned so much by getting outside the borders of the U.S.

Oh, and GO RED SOX!

Gary Lee: I wholeheartedly second your thoughts about things we learn when we get out of the country.

And, I second your Sox exhortation, too.

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Life Changing Trip: In 2006 I was one of about 10 people that took our grad school spring break and drove down to New Orleans to help clean up (actually in St. Bernard Parish). I had always wanted to go to New Orleans but had never done so and prior to this trip I would have never done anything like this. On woman whose house we gutted sent us all an individual thank you card and even gave us $200 as a thank you and wanted us to spend it on a night out. We even found some of her wedding pictures and important documents. Needless to say we donated the money, but that trip provided an eye opening experience about the goodness of people, both the residents and volunteers, and I went back to New Orleans last year and will return this year for JazzFest so I can at least do my little part for the economy. Unfortunately I have not kept in touch with that woman but I think about her often especially how people who have lost everything come together to support each other and thousands of people from around the country come together for no other reason than to help their fellow man. It truly changed my view of life.

Gary Lee: Thanks for sharing that remarkable story.

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Edinburgh by Train: I am headed to Scotland for a wedding in December right before christmas. Because it was a short notice wedding (they just got engaged in September and haven't sent out invites yet) the fares are not cheap. But it is cheaper for us to fly to London. What is the best way to get from London to Edinburgh by train? Some people have recommended that it is easier to do this then to fly.

Carol Sottili: My guess is that it'll be a wash money-wise, once you add the price of the train ticket. If you're traveling around the holidays, train tickets will also be more expensive. Expect to pay about $250 round trip, plus the trip takes 4.5 hours each way. I'd keep looking for flights to Edinburgh. Even if you fly to Edinburgh from London, you'll most likely have to change airports, and getting from Heathrow to any of the other London airports is time-consuming and exhausting. Try Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus.com) from Dulles to Edinburgh - fares seem pretty good.

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Bowie, MD: Gary - all the best for your departure - and you WILL be missed! ...I just hope that the Flight Crew will give you the appropriate plugs when your first book's published! I guess my most life changing trip had to be my honeymoon - 1978 in Acapulco. To spend a week with a woman that I'm still in love with almost 30 years later, taking care of her when she came down with her first case of Montazuma's...and her taking care of me when I came down with a slight case of sun poisoning...I can still look at the picture of her at some little cafe and be glad I'm alive. We've been thru a lot, but the memory of that trip stays with you - forever.

Gary Lee: Hey, thanks for your thanks and for sharing your love story.

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Portland, Ore: With the wine --each state has different rules. What I did when traveling and got a bottle of wine for my brother as a gift (He lives in one of those restrictive states). What I did was ask the wine maker to box it like they would and then I went to UPS and had it shipped.

Cindy Loose: Shipping from overseas is more complicated, though. I remember writing about the rules when they were first imposed and while I don't remember the details, remember it was a problem. However, so many businesses, even small ones, sell on the internet that it's worth checking to see if they have worked out the bugs and can mail it for you.

By the way, see a great New Yorker piece from a couple months ago about a scandal involving Italian olive oil, where they bring in oil from Turkey on tankers, some of it soy oil, and pass it off as virgin Italian. But I'm assuming these folks are buying some special, gourmet stuff not available here.

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travel agent: Hi. My wife and I have two little kids (2 and 4), and would like to go on a beach vacation. We're pretty new to the area, so after getting exhausted trying to research through "Top 10 vacations for Kids" type websites, decided to work with a travel agent. I found one that was recommended, and asked her a few questions. Then she responded by booking us a trip. I said I wasn't ready to book a trip and wanted to discuss it some more. She then booked us another trip elsewhere.

Is this typical of a travel agent? My hope is to find someone who is knowledgeable, and will take a little time to work with us to help us find the best vacation for us (and our budget). Are there people like that out there? Can anyone recommend someone?

KC Summers: We can't recommend a specific travel agent, as you probably suspected, but there *are* good ones out there and I'd urge you to ditch this one and find another. Sounds like this one is giving you the hard sell without considering your needs. I always compare finding a good travel agent to searching for a doctor -- the best recommendations are word of mouth from someone you trust. So ask your friends, neighbors and colleagues for their favorites, and stand your ground when they give you the hard sell. The American Society of Travel Agents has an online agent-finder function at its Web site, www.travelsense.org, but I've never found it useful. For example, I just looked for an agent who specializes in family travel and the Caribbean and it said no one in Washington D.C. fits that description. Hmmm.

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Washington, DC: Hi Flight Crew,

I read the Washington Post article about "All Inclusive" resorts and found it very informative - I just wish I knew some of these things before going to "Fantasy Island" in Roatan, Honduras last September.

While its advertisements claim to offer "the ultimate of guest comfort and luxury," I found the facilities literally falling apart. The best room they offered me, after three room changes, had bare light bulbs and rattling fans. Adding insult to injury, although three meals were offered per day, a small bottle of soda was $2; beer was $5. Use of beach towels cost you $10, and use of a remote for your in-room (almost non-existent) satellite television was another $10. I found large spiders hiding in the bath towels - at least I figured they'd eat all the other bugs in the room at no extra charge.

I've been to other all-inclusive resorts (Negril, Jamaica and Cozumel, Mexico) so the ever-so-obvious lesson I've learned is: If you want the quality, spend the money. You'll be much happier in the end.

Andrea Sachs: Wow, you are an AI expert. For many of these properties, that rule is so true. But sometimes you can get lucky and don't have to go the Ritz route. At my property, I had a busted patio door, but they did come to fix it three times, and the puddle on the floor eventually did dry up.

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Washington, DC: I'm submitting this on behalf of my sister who lives in Jakarta. Years ago we went to South Africa for a build for Habitat for Humanity. Long story short, shortly after that trip she joined the Peace Corps in Uganda and is now managing a teacher training program in Indonesia. Pretty life-changing trip! I now have a insatiable desire (not matched by actual skill) to do home repairs.

Gary Lee: Hey, great story. I, too, am thinking of home repairs though I wouldn't describe my interest as being insatiable.

Thanks and good luck.

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Another Vegas Question: I'm going to Las Vegas for the first time and while I'm there, I'd like to eat at a buffet. I've found sites reviewing buffets but no where, including on the hotels websites can I find prices. Help?!

John Deiner: You have to eat a buffet...it be like going to the Louvre and skipping the Mona Lisa. Or something like that.

First, go to Cheapo Vegas (www.cheapovegas.com) for fun reviews of the buffets. As for prices, I found a range at Vegas.com (www.vegas.com). Click on "dining" up top, and there's a buffet button once you arrive at the food page.

One thing: Be prepared to pay more than you'd expect. There's no such thing as $2.99 buffet anymore, and if you actually one, avoid it. One of my favorite buffets now is at Main Street Station downtown -- it's cheap and really good, and the service rocks. But on the Strip, the buffets at some of the higher-end hotels, including the Mirage and Bellagio, can easily top 25 bucks a head. If you want to splurge, the buffet at Planet Hollywood, formerly the Aladdin, used to be great, but I haven't visited since the change in management.

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Arlington, VA: When I was 5, I travelled with my family to spend the summer with relatives in Spain. I knew that most of relatives lived in a foreign country but it didn't mean anything until we got there and I saw it for myself. It made a huge impression and my brother and I referred to our Spanish summer all through our childhood--we remembered foods and drinks and sounds but especially smells. We never went back as a family but have travelled there in various configurations, and that early trip opened my mind to other countries and cultures and I ended up in an internationally focused career that has allowed me to travel all over the world.

I took my young kids to Costa Rica a couple of years ago and realized what an important experience foreign travel is to children. They loved every moment of it and can't wait to go there or to any other foreign country.

Gary Lee: Hey, Arlington, amen. I think entering other cultures is great education for everyone, especially youth.

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laptop: might want to make sure you bring a laptop cable lock. don't overly rely on it (determined theives will succeed regardless) but it stops the opportunists.

Andrea Sachs: Good tip, thanks!

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Formerly Washington DC, now Phoenix: For the Alexandria parent looking for flights for her son studying abroad:

Not sure if this still applies, as I studied in Spain 5 years ago, but I booked my roundtrip ticket to Madrid through STA Travel(geared only to students), knowing that my plans were probably going to change once my semester of study was finished. The change fee was only $25! About 2 weeks before I was scheduled to go home, I very easily found a flight to extend my time in Spain. STA has offices all over the world; I walked into my local Spanish office and changed with no hassle!

Carol Sottili: STA sometimes has good deals. So does Student Universe (just for college students and faculty). But check those change fee penalities carefully before you buy. It's the airlines that charge the fee.

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Washington, DC: I haven't stayed there but the Nature Conservancy runs a ranch called Pine Butte (I think) near Choteau MT. It's located at an old dude ranch. I believe they have horseback riding, hiking, lectures from naturalists, etc.

Gary Lee: We appreciate the recommendation.

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Las Vegas Sidetrips: I am a certified drive-aholic, but on my last business trip to LV I took the previous weekend and headed out in my (convertible) rental car NE into Utah. I admit I had been to Hoover Dam and Grand Canyon previously. I did a huge loop using I-15 and I-70 to Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, then down through Southern Utah and Monument Valley into Arizona. Sunrise there is magnificent. I ended the jaunt with a couple of hours on Historic Route 66 and then headed back north to LV. Lots of miles but a really great "cleansing" experience!

John Deiner: Man, that sounds like a great trip, but wooooeeeey...lotta driving, isn't it? You basically covered half the desert Southwest on that one, but that's just the sort of drive I adore. (And isn't Monument Valley unbelievable?)

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Anonymous: North Carolina: What does THIS mean? Sandals is best for "couples whose last stop before the airport was David's Bridal." What's with the attitude?

hmmm. i just took the statement as most of the guests are on their honeymoon. which they are. how in world can someone take offense to it?

Andrea Sachs: Thank you Anonymous. You definitely got the point.

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Thanksgiving I95: I usually avoid it by taking off work, but this year I can't avoid having to drive up to New York for Thanksgiving. My options are my wife and I leaving late Wed night or early Thanksgiving morning. Which one would you suggest being the least aggravating? I was thinking either leaving at 10 or 11pm or at like 2-3am. Any suggestions?

Scott Vogel: Not sure if this is the answer you were hoping for, but travelers consistently report that I-95 is least congested -- and remember, this is all relative -- during the hours of 1 to 4 a.m. If your destination is New York City, the trick is to arrive before 5 a.m., otherwise you'll have to deal with morning rush hour. Given a four-hour drive time and a few stops to avoid getting bleary-eyed, I'd split the difference and leave around midnight at the latest.

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McLean, Va: Comment: I just returned from a trip to the Dominican Republic. We stayed at the Melia Caribe Tropical, rated "Superior First Class" by Apple Vacations. It was the worst vacation I've ever taken and will never return to the Dominican Republic based on my experience. Service was nonexistent and management could have cared less. No one should break down in tears on their tropical vacation because of the treatment they received from resort staff.

Letters to AAA, Apple Vacations, Sol Melia, the Dominican Department of Tourism and more are forthcoming. If anyone ever asks about this hotel, please refer them elsewhere!

Andrea Sachs: Sorry for the tears, McL. You deserve another vacation!

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Re: Vegas: If budget is not an issue and you want to see the Grand Canyon, do a helicopter tour of all the things you were dicussing. You can fly over the Valley of Fire, Red Rocks, Hoover Dam and land in the Grand Canyon, have some drinks/snacks, and come back. All of this can be done in 3-4 hours and is a life-time experience.

John Deiner: Good idea. Helicopters sort of freak me out, so I'd be inclined to drive, but I haven't heard anything bad about the experience.

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Maryland: i moved overseas to get married. That didn't happen, but I had asked a friend to hold my return ticket for three months to stop me from running home with my tail between my legs. Best decision ever, because by that time I had gotten past the pain and on with life. I got to see most of Europe and a lot of Africa before coming home again, something I wouldn't have done if I had given in to my instincts to run home to mom. I know now that I'm more self-reliant that i had ever thought possible.

Gary Lee: Nice nuanced story. Glad it worked out for you.

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Edinburgh from London: British Airways flies to EDI from Heathrow (Terminal 1).

Carol Sottili: Yes, but it's probably not going to be cheaper to ticket a flight into London and then a flight into Edinburgh on a carrier that offers international service. You can sometimes save money by flying into London and then taking a discount regional carrier (Ryanair, Easyjet) out of Stansted, Luton, etc., to your final destination, but it's not a given.

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Passport update: I mailed my new passport in for a name change (free

within a year) and paid for expidited processing. I got the

new one in three weeks, and they sent my check back!

How nice of the State Department.

Also, a tip for the person looking for Bora Bora: Princess

has a ship that sails only the French Polynesian islands.

Much cheaper than many resorts.

This time next week I'll be on my (belated) honeymoon

cruise from Hawaii to Tahiti...YAY!

KC Summers: Hey, thanks for that positive report. We've been getting very good feedback from readers recently who report getting their passports back in record time -- quite a change from last spring and early summer. This is the first I've heard of the State Dept. refunding the expediting fee though. Good for them.

Thanks for the Bora Bora tip. And happy honeymoon!

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Arlington, VA: Hey Flight Crew! My husband and I are planning on taking 2 weeks off for a vacation in February. But we are still at a loss of where to go. We have about $4000 to spend for the both of us - we both love the beach, but also like being able to do some active things. We had a fabulous time in Hawaii and the USVI, if that gives you a sense of where we like to go. Do you or the chatters have any suggestions of what we should be considering?

Cindy Loose: Knowing you loved Hawaii and the USVI helps alot in suggesting something further.

Most islands in the Caribbean, except for some tiny ones, have lots of activities, similar to those you no doubt experienced in USVI. Then again, as beach locations go, I think you'll find the most activities and the strongest sense of local culture in parts of Mexico. Cancun, for example, gets a rep as being Americanized, and the great beaches are strewn with high rise hotels, but you can venture up or down the coast and find more authentic beach towns with attractions like Mayan ruins and such. Puerto Vallarta I don't like as much cause the beaches aren't as good and the local color is further afield.

Also, although I've never been, Belize is on my wish list.

Anyone else have advise?

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Carry-on baggage: For the gentleman asking about garment bags, a tip that was offered to me by a friend when I was making a similar decision earlier this year is that if you want to maximize the space within the airlines' restrictions, you're better off avoiding the wheeled bags for two reasons. First, and perhaps obviously, the wheels and associated equipment (telescoping pull-handle and the like) take up space and thus rob you of some space for your stuff. Second, and more importantly, wheeled bags tend to be hard-sided, or at least partially hard-sided, and it makes it harder to cram them (whether into the overhead locker or into the airport bag-sizing gauge) if you're forced to do so. I had never really thought about the second point, but when I heard it I had kind of a "DUH!!!!" moment.

My friend referred me to a site called OneBag.com. Lots of useful info there and some good strategies on packing, including how to pack a suit in a bag that isn't a garment bag. I highly recommend it.

Cindy Loose: Great advice--Thanks.

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Washington DC: Hi Crew,

We'd like to go to Scotland next July. We'd like to rent a car to go to the outer isles, and were wondering--would you rent the car at Invernessand drive, or take the train to Islay/Skye?

Thanks!

Gary Lee: Good question. Not sure on this end. Anyone have thoughts?

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Fairfax, Va: RE: OLIVE OIL TRANSPORT: I've travelled back from Europe with small bottles of oil and sunflower oils and wine. I have also used bubble wrap successfully and bring along those cardboard containers for prints, pictures, etc. They have proven ann exceptional transport vehicle for bottles inside my checked luggage.

Cindy Loose: If you're going to take the chance, just make sure that if they do break, they're packed in something that doesn't leak all over your best clothes.

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Liquids in checked bags: I bring back vodka all the time from Russia and I've never had a problem. I do recommend ziplock bags and bubble wrap just incase....

Gary Lee: Good thought. Thanks!

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Washington, DC: I will be spending 4 days in Malta over New Year's this year, as part of a longer trip to Italy. Are there any "must-sees" that I should be sure to include in my itinerary?

John Deiner: Hey, DC. You can see almost all of Malta in four days, and some of the stuff is obvious, including Valletta, the capital. It's beautiful -- and unavoidable; take a boat tour to get a good grasp on the area.

But a couple of things you shouldn't miss is Mdina, the gated city; Gozo, a wonderful island you can get to by ferry (spend the night there); and the Hypogeum, underground ruins that you must book in advance.

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RE: I'm attending a Thanksgiving gathering in Portland Maine and am responsible for the stuffing/dressing. : There's got to be a better alternative than bringing stuffing on a flight. Either the taste or the diners' health will be compromised. Long distance visitors should get a pass from bringing food. Maybe order something nice and have it sent directly to your host!

Cindy Loose: Maybe his/her stuffing is world famous, unequaled, and takes days to make.

Otherwise, this is pot luck gone amuck.

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Washington, DC: Want to take a long day trip or possible overnight this Saturday. Looking for suggestions in Western Maryland or West Virginia. We'll stay overnight if we find a place, but don't want to make a reservation anywhere, so we don't want to get too far from home. More interested in a wandering/driving/seeing day than in tours, shopping, etc. Good restauran suggestion a plus!

Thanks.

Christina Talcott: You might like driving through the Monongahela National Forest in West Virginia. You could take Route 29 to 211. In Sperryville, there's a great restaurant called Thornton River Grille (opens at 11 on Saturday). Cross the Blue Ridge Parkway and stop in Luray on the other side of Shenandoah. If you're still hungry, I like Artisans Grill for sandwiches and A Moment to Remember coffeeshop/cafe. Over the border in West Virginia, you'll have the mountain roads to explore all day. Stop in Seneca Rocks for lunch at the Front Porch and watch the rock climbers, maybe cruise around Davis & Elkins College. On your way back to town, stop in Front Royal and visit the Royal Oak Bookshop and J's Gourmet for quiche and soup if it's early in the evening. Otherwise, consider making a reservation at Apt. 2G, a surprisingly upscale restaurant in the tiny town. Have fun!

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Stowe, Vt.: Definitely stop in Woodstock NH along the way - just beyond picturesque. We were married at the Green Mountain INN in Stowe - it was incredible. We'd highly recommend it.

Scott Vogel: Here's a good idea for the New Hampshire-Vermont drivers, although I think you mean Woodstock, VERMONT, which is just 10 miles off the road to Stowe, and yes, definitely worth a side trip.

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A changed life, SW Waterfront: I grew up in apartheid South Africa. During my required internship after college, a good friend working with me implored me to go on a trip abroad as soon as possible. When I got my first real job I saved every penny I could to take a trip to Europe. I went on a 7 week Contiki trip (YEAH for countries where you get lots of leave!)During that trip I learned just how much I was isolated in South Africa and how much we were subjected to government propoganda. I came back with my eyes opened to the realities of the world. So much so that my mother told me on my first day back that I was not the same person that left - mother knows best. I made a commitment to myself to travel to a new country every year. I have been luckyenough to have done so for most of the past 13 years and am a better person for it (I hope!)

Gary Lee: Hey, you seem to have taken to heart the best of what travel can offer us. Bravo. Thanks for the story.

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Re: Travel Agent: One of the biggest Travel Agency consortiums is Virtuoso, it is a great referral place. They ask you questions about your trip and what is important to you, then assign you someone who is experienced in that field. I planned my father's 60th birthday this way, and founda great travel agent. She asked me a number of questions on what we like, our budget etc. and gave us a number of options explaining the difference in between them. It was a great experience and we keep going back to her because she makes it so easy. Oh not to mention, she got us upgrades and free breakfast through the connections of Virtuoso. I have been very happy witht he whole process and highly recommend it.

KC Summers: Just passing this on... this is a luxury travel agent consortium that specializes in "dream vacation getaways." www.virtuoso.com.

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Maryland: take the train to NYC, seriously.

the other alternative is to PLAN on it taking 5-8 hours. You could get lucky, but don't count on it. AND make sure you have the EZ pass, or fugedabotid.

Scott Vogel: Another idea for getting to New York. I agree, with this caveat: Keep in mind that trains to the city will also be crowded and Thanksgiving delays are not unheard of.

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Arlington VA: Hi, I admit this is really a stupid question, but here it goes. My United Airline economy plus program will be expired in 2 months, but I have no idea where to go to make the use of it. I prefer to stay in US as budget is an issue now. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Andrea Sachs: If you are not ready to spend your miles, you can sometimes revive your account just by buying or booking with an United affiliate. Look at the airline's partners and perhaps a new sweater at the Gap can give your account some added life. (I took out a United credit card to extend my program, plus I get a mile per dollar spent). Otherwise, you need to check your amount of miles to see where you can fly to. Check United's awards chart at http://www.united.com/page/middlepage/0,6823,1136,00.html.

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re: Vietnam: I travelled to Vietnam 3 times for work last year and took time for side trips. February in Hanoi was definitely cool, but June and September in Saigon and DaNang were equally hot and humid. I did go to Dalat in September, and it was only slightly cooler and still very humid.

It's hard to believe but you do acclimate to the temperature. My experience with rain was that it came in spurts and never a whole day of downpours.

By the way, I would strongly recommend Hanoi, Halong Bay, DaNang/Hoi An/Hue, Saigon and especially Dalat, which is worth the extra effort. If you can, you should add Angkor Wat to your trip (as a friend encouraged me to do). It's a short flight from Saigon and you can see and do a lot in even 2 days. If you don't think you'll be back to SE Asia anytime soon, you should definitely put it on your itinerary.

Cindy Loose: Thanks---Halong Bay was on the tip of my tongue. Knew it started with H, had two sylabbles and couldn't think of the name. Great place, although it seemed like party members were cutting deals to ruin it with big developments, to say nothing of homes for themselves. Still, it is so awesome it can't be completely ruined.

Thanks for the input.

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Alexandria, VA: Last week somebody asked a question about getting a Russian visa in advance of taking a cruise that will stop in St. Petersburg. I only saw it afterwards because I couldn't log on during the chat. I went on a Holland America cruise around the Baltic Sea this summer that included two days in St. Petersburg, so I wanted to pass along a few thoughts in hopes that the person might be online this week.

One thing to bear in mind is that the cruise ship pier in St. Petersburg is in a very isolated location in the middle of the industrial port. They're building a new one, but in the meantime there is no public transport access, and we saw very few taxis near the pier. (You will look at the dock and say, "Where the heck are we?") I would highly recommend that the poster see whether the cruise line has some sort of transportation option into the city for people not booked on the shore excursions, like a shuttle bus type of thing. Otherwise it may prove very difficult to go anywhere. You can't possibly walk from the pier.

Second, taking the shore excursions in St. Petersburg isn't necessarily a bad idea in terms of seeing some of the things outside the city. A trip to the Summer Palace in Peterhof is a must-do, but it's some 25 miles west of the city, so taking the cruise line's bus trip (with an English-speaking tour guide) might be easier than trying to get into the city to take the hydrofoil out there on your own. (The one thing you do not want to do under any circumstances is to try to rent a car. The traffic made DC traffic seem not so bad.)

Third, I don't know whether the poster speaks Russian, but bear in mind for getting around on your own that if you don't speak Russian, the signs can be incomprehensible. Unlike Western Europe, where it's a different language but the same alphabet, you're dealing with Cyrillic characters such that the signs are completely alien unless you recognize a business logo (McDonald's, for example).

I would especially advise caution on the afternoon when your ship is scheduled to leave. Remember that ships will wait for organized shore excursions but not for people who go off on their own. Our ship left late because most of the shore excursion buses were stuck in traffic. I'd hate to run that risk if I were on my own.

All of this makes it sound like I'm saying that it would be a nightmare to try to see St. Petersburg on your own. I'm not saying that, and I wish I could have gone out and explored independently, but with only two days there and with NO knowledge of the Russian language, we did the shore excursions and were glad we did. It's a fabulous city and I think it would be a great place to explore independently, but I think it requires a LOT MORE careful research and thorough planning than the average cruise ship port, and that's the real bottom line of my post.

Gary Lee: Alexandria: Having just been in St. Petersburg, and on earlier occasions been to the Port area, I agree with everything you say. My own advice to adventurous travelers is to go for the independent tour of St. Petersburg but be aware of the potential problems and plan well.

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Austin, Tex: I am getting married next weekend and am planning on changing my name. However, I have already booked flights to visit family for Christmas in my maiden name. Will I be able to get through security if my driver's license is in my new (married)name? I called the airline and they won't change the name on the ticket. Or should I just hold off on changing my name until after we're back?

Andrea Sachs: Make life easy on yourself, especially during the crazy holiday travel season: Hold off on the name change.

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For Scotland bound: A friend and I flew either Ryan Air or Easy Jet to Scotland a few years ago because prices were so much cheaper than flying directly there. You may want to look into that. I believe we flew into Glasgow but trained around, to Edinburgh, Inverness and Stirling.

Carol Sottili: You still have to get from airport to airport in London. I did it this spring, and I don't know that I'll do it again. If you want to save money, you have to take the train (trains), and with luggage, it's quite a process. Cabs are easier, but cost may negate savings.

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Shipping wine from overseas: An attorney friend of mine does alcoholic beverage regulatory work. I asked him about shipping Scotch to myself once and he said to forget it. You have to have a licensed distributor import the liquor, which is why all the distilleries' online shops say that they cannot ship to the United States. The same would be true for wine.

Cindy Loose: Maybe someone else was talking about shipping wine, but the person I was addressing is interested in bringing home Italian olive oil. Still, shipping yourself from overseas is a hassle.

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Richmond, Va: not necessarily immediately life changing, but a life-long reminder: one Dec. 30, a freind suggested we go to NYC for New Years Eve. I said "great idea for next year," and he said "no, I mean now." And we did it. It is a life long reminder to take risks, don't make excuses, make things happen. Planning is good, but all planning and no execution is limiting.

Gary Lee: Thanks for those good lessons to live by...

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LV Follow-up for JD: Yes a lot of miles but I flew into LV on Friday morning, left immediately and did not return until Sunday evening. So all day Saturday was devoted to short hikes through Arches and Canyonlands. I would do the same trip again in a heartbeat!

John Deiner: Love it. Great stuff. So, basically, you just borrowed the airport in Vegas and turned the trip into something amazing. I'm going to look at a map after this chat is over and ogle your route.

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jerusalem, Israel: I am in Jerusalem after barely surviving a connecting flight from Dulles to JFK. People planning on international flights should be warned to leave lots of time and hope for good luck on making their connection in JFK for overseas. My 6:40 flight took off at 8:30 and landed at 9:50, which I was told by ground personnel was pretty good for that flight. Fortunately my flight was at 11:55 which gave me sufficient time to change terminals at JFK and make the flight.

I am going to try to use Dulles flights direct in the future even if it means a change in Europe rather than risk a missed JFK connection.

Andrea Sachs: Yes, JFK can be a bear. Glad you made it and good luck on the return.

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Raleigh, N.C.: Life-Changing Trip: I'm not in the medical field, but I'm outgoing and can wash a floor like nobody's business, so I volunteered at a hospital in Bosnia for a couple weeks. I learned a good bit of the language, met amazing people, and stayed in the apartment of a Bosnian rap artist while he was touring in western Europe. The work kept me centered, and the people I met made sure that I had time for fun as well, and they helped me see parts of the region that few travelers ever get to know. I also learned some pretty amazing Bosnian swear words via the rap connection!

Gary Lee: Hey, I love this story, shows you what you learn when you get close to the nuts and bolts of life.

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Cindy Loose: Maybe his/her stuffing is world famous, unequaled, and takes days to make. : I thought of that (I come from a family who had an appointed stuffing-maker), but if so, the taste will be sorely comprimsed and all the advantage of stuffing made by the best is lost. Freezing stuffing will result in a horrible soggy mess. I don't care how good her stuffing is, it'll be horrible after freezing. It's like they're losing sight of the reality for the sake of continuing a tradition that' no longer practical.

Cindy Loose: Okay, stuffing maker: We've voted, and you can tell the hosts that the vote against your bringing stuffing was unanimous.

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Boston, Mass: Hi guys! My family and I (5 adults) are thinking about a cruise down the Nile next fall. Anyone have any experience with this? Which are the reliable cruise lines? Anything to avoid? Thanks!

Scott Vogel: I haven't personally taken one of these, but did quite a bit of research for a traveler who was. Turns out that the quality of the cruises varies greatly. One travel agent in New York (who has booked Americans on these trips for years) told me that your best bet was to look for cruises that are offered by the international hotel chains, including Sonesta, Oberoi and Moevenpick. And by all means make sure you book in advance.

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Stowe, VT: Oops, yes I meant Woodstock VT.

Also can get a wonderful meal overlooking the waterfall at Simon Pearce just outside of Woodstock.

Scott Vogel: Another good Vermont suggestion. And yet another:

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DC person visiting Stowe: Stop by the VT state capitol on your way - Montpelier. Very sweet - check out the gold dome on the capitol building!

Scott Vogel: here 'tis.

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Anonymous: I once had to prove the size of my carry-on, and I stuffed my bag into the metal bin at the check in counter and proved it would fit. However, it got stuck in the bin and as I finally dislodged it, I knocked over the whole bin and the giant metal stand it was attached to. With a very red face, I agreed to check the bag.

Cindy Loose: That is a great story! I can just see it.

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Los Angeles, Calif: Is there any recourse with a stonewalling American Airlines for a badly damaged suitcase? It arrived approx. 30 hours late (dumped at our front doorstep sometime between 2:00AM and 4:30AM). After frequent phone calls (made within hours of delivery) and emails, American Airlines disavows all responsibility and claims we had 24 hours to hand deliver the suitcase back to the airport, a 2-3 hour drive. Any suggestions besides avoiding all future air travel with them?

Cindy Loose: On the one hand, I know there are rules about how long you have to report damaged luggage--some airlines require that you complain before you leave the airport--but I've never seen the rule interpreted to mean you have to drive the luggage back to the airport in 24 hours. That seems so ridiculous that it's worth fighting, assuming you reported the damage within 24 hours of the bag's delivery. (When a business does something obviously stupid, it's easier to contest if you find a rational service rep.)

On the other hand, it is really hard these days to get help for damaged suitcases or missing items. TSA blames airline, airline blames TSA, then you have the deliver service in the mix. I'd do some serious thinking about the value of the luggage or cost of fixing it yourself versus how much hassle it would be for uncertain results. Unless it was a really expensive bag I loved, I'd let go and try to consider it part of the trip cost.

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Anonymous: My husband and I would like to take a cruise to Alaska. I was wondering if anyone has taken such a cruise and when would be the best time to go. We want to see the Northern Lights as well.

Thanks,

Kathy

Andrea Sachs: You need a dark sky to see the Northern Lights, which unfortunately is not a summer sky. Since Alaska cruises run during the warmer months (May-September), to see the Northern Ligts in full glory, you will need to either do a land tour in winter or cruise as late in the season as possible--preferably September.

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Washington, DC: I have a rant about Spirit Air. I found a ticket to Cancun using Kayak.com. The ticket was through CheapTickets. It wasn't until I got my confirmation from CheapTickets that I learned Spirit harges for checked bags. Okay live and learn. However, when I went to Sprit's website, where you can purchase bags cheaper, the site will not work. Tried 3 times on different days. I call them they said they will note my problem and charge me the reduced rate, but oh by the way since your return flight has a five hour layover, it will be an additonal baggage fee. No where was this noted on my e-confirmation. Also because I booked through a Travel Agent, Cheap Tickets, I can't get a seat assignment. I'm never flying these guys again. I wish I had known about USA 3000 sooner or I wish had spent the extra and flown one of the majors.

Gary Lee: Thanks for sharing the rant.

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Waldorf Md: For the single who wants a relaxing AI.Try Aventura Spa Palace, one of the Palace Resorts. It's in Puerto Aventuras, Mx about 50 miles S of Cancun.

Andrea Sachs: Thanks for the tip for our single AI-bound travler, Waldorf.

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United Economy Plus: Actually, this is a pre-paid program which gets you Economy Plus seating instead of paying $39-109 per flight. It is a use-it-or-lose-it program. You were describing options for keeping a FF account active.

Gary Lee: Ok, thanks for the clarification.

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Dave, Vero Beach, Fla.: February vacation? Taiwan is very affordable thanks to a very favorable exchange rate. Taipei in early February felt, to me, like Florida and had abundant culture, shopping, and food.

The island has amazing scenic roads, the highest mountains in northeast Asia, coral reefs, etc. Despite the lack of a big western-oriented tourism industry, I think anyone who does a bit of homework would feel very welcome.

But avoid Chinese New Year--everyone spends the holiday with family!

Cindy Loose: I love Taiwan, but from the parts I saw of it didn't think of it as a beachy vacation, which the February couple seemed to be hinting was a part of their dream. I LOVE the food there, and it feels righteous to visit there instead of China.

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Re: car rental to Scottish Isles: I rented a car in Scotland this past summer, and would highly recommend it to the traveler who is interested in seeing some of the Isles. The rural roads (especially those on the islands themselves) can be very narrow and windy, but just take it slow and you'll do fine. The car ferry services between the islands and the mainland are well run and timely (but do try to make reservations in advance since the more popular routes and departure times can fill up a day or two beforehand). It's not cheap (with gas, rental fees, insurance and ferry costs), but the flexibility and independence from the coach tour circuit are well worth it.

Gary Lee: Thanks much.

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Quick name change response: All you need is a certified copy of your marriage license--show it to the desk agent, and you shouldn't have a problem.

Gary Lee: Thanks.

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For Scotland's Outer Islands: Make certain there is a car rental location where you want to be (not all have them). Remember that European rental cars are nearly always manuals, and that the wheel is on the other side of the car and the shift is in the middle--so left handed shifting in floor mounted shifts. Also, roads are very narrow, very windy, and the locals will drive fast because they know the roads.

KC Summers: Good points, thanks. Actually you can rent automatic shifts in Europe, they're just prohibitively expensive.

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BA to Edinburgh: I know it may not be cheaper; I was just responding to the point about how one is likely to have to change airports to fly to EDI. (It's a fair question as to which matters more, the cost versus the time and nuisance of changing airports, but that's of course a matter of individual taste!)

KC Summers: Gotcha, thanks.

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AI question: I'm going to an AI resort in Antigua in a few weeks (high priced). When they say service is included, does that really mean no tipping?

Andrea Sachs: That is what it means techincally, though some places do suggest you throw a few extra dollars to housekeeping. Your call.

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Gary Lee: Hey, thanks for the very good round of questions and help answering them.

I particularly appreciate your stories about life changing trips. It's tough to choose any one over another. But one I liked was from the chatter who grew up in a developing country and took that first trip to Belgium. If you send me your address to: leeg@washpost.com, I will make sure you get the surprise prize.

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